Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: no bs on February 27, 2013, 07:31:10 pm
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when replacing the rear sprocket/drum, is the bearing a press fit(to swap into the new unit)? any special procedure?
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Look on youtube for singh5g videos, I believe he has one posted specifically for the sprocket, a search on youtube should get you there.
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Yes, press fit. You'll need to press it out. For the install you can put it in the freezer and maybe put the sprocket/drum in the oven at 250 if you like to make it easier to put it in.
My mechanic destroyed one when replacing it, I guess it didn't want to come out nicely. It was a standard size though since they just picked one up in town.
Scott
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anybody know the federal bearing number? just in case!
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These just came up in another thread:
Sprocket/drum x 1
6005-2RS/C3
Rear wheel x 2
6203-2RS/C3
I'm not sure if there's any way to remove the bearing from the rear sprocket without ruining it. There's a seal too but I don't have the spec for that. If I get it I'll post it.
Scott
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yes, saw that. same for a 2011 g5?
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Yes, I believe so. The sprocket/drum may be different between the C5/B5/G5, maybe not, but I'm pretty sure all the bearings are the same. Buying them locally gives you an advantage here. You can either remove them and take them with you or return them if you got the wrong ones. Also, I'm betting you can get better quality at a bearing shop than the Indan OEM ones.
Scott
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Yes, I believe so. The sprocket/drum may be different between the C5/B5/G5, maybe not, but I'm pretty sure all the bearings are the same. Buying them locally gives you an advantage here. You can either remove them and take them with you or return them if you got the wrong ones. Also, I'm betting you can get better quality at a bearing shop than the Indan OEM ones.
Scott
Perhaps be careful with that one. :-\
Rear wheel bearing failed, axle nut over torqued at factory.
Was replaced by a bearing from german top quality. Went out too: being too good.
Replaced by standard part from india. No issues since.
Rear Wheel Bearing: 6005 C3, part number 145553.
As my dealer says: an Enfield likes it loose. So do I.
Moderation in everything (Chilon?) ;)
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Possibly, yes :) When things are generally loose you don't necessarily want to put one tight component in there.
I figure that's part of why C3 bearings are spec'd. C3 means there's a little more than normal clearance. I suspect something like an extended freeway run that keeps the wheels spinning fast under load could heat them up, hence the extra clearance to compensate for things getting hot and tightening up a bit.
Scott
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looks like an SKF number?
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Bearing numbers like 6002, 6203 etc are based on a worldwide industrial standard number system.
SKF, FAG, New Departure, Timken or Fred Flintstone Bearing Company all use these numbers to define the basic bearing type and size.
For a good explanation of how bearing numbers work, follow this link
http://gizmology.net/bearings.htm
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The grease seal is 25 x 40 x 7 mm (ID x OD x Width).
The bearing 6203 RS1 (rubber seal single sided) = 17 mm ID x 40 mm OD x 12 mm Width.
6 = Type code = single row deep groove ball bearing
2 = light
03 = bore size 17 mm
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Single sided seal and NOT C3 then?
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does the flintstone company provide the rear brakes for RE?
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Single sided seal and NOT C3 then?
I do not remember the details of bearing when I had opened my G5 rear wheel. I got the specs from RE catalogue.
It would be best to confirm them if someone is going to open the wheel, because things can change without notice or catalog may be different from actual - though it would be prettly close
I believe C3 is the internal radial clearance in the bearing - see link below
http://www.bearingworks.com/technical_data/internal_clearance.php
PS - Just saw that a few posts above, you have mentioned 2RS - perhaps two sided seal it is !
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Regarding the rear wheel bearing failure concerns:
If it is the same arrangement as the Iron Barrel(which I suspect it is), then it is important to check that the bearing spacer that goes over the axle between the bearings is the right length, and is square.
This spacer sets the distance between the inner races, so that the bearing sits in the proper relationship to the distance between the outer races. If this dimension is incorrect, it will force the inner races too far apart, or too far together, and will ruin the bearing in short order.
This is very common in Iron Barrel bikes.
And the Iron Barrel bikes also use 6203, so I suspect it is all the same layout.
Don't assume that all the parts are made properly. Check things yourself.
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does the flintstone company provide the rear brakes for RE?
no, that would be the rubble company.
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a wholley owned subsidiary of dr. scholl's?
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Aha! I went to my C5 parts catalog, I didn't expect that much detail but it's there.
The wheel bearings are listed as 6005 C3, no mention of seals at all. The sprocket drum bearing is 6203 RS1 C3, single sided seal. The seal is 25x40x7. I'll confirm what I can when I take it all apart soon, though I don't necesarily plan on changing the wheel bearings.
I don't have the G5 catalog with me. I'll check later when I get home.
Thanks,
Scott
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My G5 parts list says the sprocket uses one (1) RE#145553, which is a 6005 C3 bearing. No mention of seals but if a sealed bearing were used it would work fine.
For those with a measuring stick this 6005 bearing has a 25mm (.984") bore, 47mm (1.850") outside diameter and is 12mm (.472) wide.
The wheel hub uses two (2) RE#145552, which is a 6203-RS1-C3 bearings.
A measuring stick will show this 6203 bearing has a 25mm (.984") bore, 40mm* (1.5748") outside diameter and is 12mm (.472") wide.
As SinghG5 mentions, it is a good idea to measure what is there before getting a replacement.
* corrected diameter. 40mm was 47mm
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E5 and G5, Rear wheel:
sprocket bearing 6005 C3 part#145553
bearing 6203 RS1-C3 (17*40*12) (2 pieces) part# 145552
grease seal 25*40*7 part# 141109
I could find no difference to C5. All numbers check.
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Anyone know if it would be a bad idea to just get 2RS bearings sealed on both sides for all three of these bearings? Any reason one or both sides need to be open? Just thinking it would keep more crud out and lengthen their life.
Scott
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The sealed versions come grease packed so they should work fine.
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Just wondering about things like extra friction from the seal making them run hotter and whether they need the room for the grease to expand. It would suck to put sealed bearings on only to have them get hot, push out all their grease, then fail.
Scott
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Just wondering about things like extra friction from the seal making them run hotter and whether they need the room for the grease to expand. It would suck to put sealed bearings on only to have them get hot, push out all their grease, then fail.
Scott
I usually run the shield only on the outer sides, since the inners are sealed from the outside elements. One shield gives less drag on the ball bearings.
Chumma has been using ceramic wheel bearings for the past year, and he really likes them. He says he can feel the difference. They are much more expensive than the steel bearings, and some people say it's a waste of money. We think they work and we have them on several Fireballs now.
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Thanks Ace. I doubt I'll give up the extra $$$ for ceramic, I don't think I ride fast or hard enough to justify the cost. Whatever good quality I can get locally will be fine. I could swear the installed bearings are sealed on one side but I'll have to check when I have the wheel off. Good point about not needing two sides sealed since the inners just ride over the spacer anyway.
Scott