The HT cable (ignition wire) is not molded in to the coil.
It screws in the same as the plug cap.
That's awesome! I had no idea. I took it apart to the point shown in the picture, then stopped. RE shows the ignition coil / high tension wire as an assembly in my spare parts manual, and I had experience with other bikes where the cable was molded into the coil pack, so I assumed that's what I was looking at. Good to know that HT wire can be unscrewed from a coarse thread socket on the coil.
I have to say, the more I learn about the machine, the more pleased I am with how it's engineered. Even if there are material quality issues and process quality issues, everything seems well thought out and easily repaired, more so than any bike I've played with in the past.
Thanks for posting the info regarding the plug cap. I guess NGK calls the nipple shaped end "Solid Post" when it's not removable and "Terminal Nut" when it is, and "Terminal Stud" when it's the small diameter threaded stud.
Incidently, why I took my ignition coil and OEM cap off in the first place, was because on my 2012 C5, the spark cap was apparently not screwed onto the HT wire very well. At 2000 miles, the engine became hard starting. By 3000 miles, it would occasionally miss while riding. At ~3150 miles, I was riding it when I smelled something burning and the engine died while I was waiting at a traffic light. 20 minutes of kicking and cranking failed to re-start the bike, and drained the battery, so I pushed it the 2 miles home. Some investigation revealed that the connection had apparently been arcing at the plug cap, and apparently the internal resistor had opened. I clipped the end of the wire, and screwed my NGK replacement cap on ALL THE WAY this time. The machine was returned to being a first kick starter, and I learned several valuable lessons.