Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => 650 Interceptor & Continental GT => Topic started by: Rick Dangerous on April 05, 2021, 02:21:58 pm
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Would love to see pictures posted of projects, additions, deletions, etc. from your RE 650s!
Or even just cleaning, tweaking, you name it. What did you do to your bike today?
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I'll kick it off:
Added a "Enfield Precision" metal chain guard
Replaced my speedo cable wire guide with a CNC machined unit from Hitchcocks UK
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Valves...
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Just watching paint dry...
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I rode it for 4,5 hours through the twisties.
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I watched a light dusting of snow from the comfort of indoors. 3.5 deg C and 15mph wind = COLD.
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Did a bar end mirror today; cleans up the look quite a bit.
For some reason the right side mirror loosens by twisting to the right (clockwise.) No idea why--hope i can save someone some frustration on that one. Otherwise easy peasy.
Who made the rubber for the turn signal stalks? The things droop out to the side like limp schlongs.
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Nothing on my bike but gf's 10th anniversary CB750 limited edition came out of winter storage and got a once over. It was sure fun taking the DOHC 4 Honda out for a rip.... We were born in the same year and she runs better than me in every way ;D
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Installed LED headlight bulb and polished engine on both sides. Reflection shows my excitement.
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Installed LED headlight bulb and polished engine on both sides. Reflection shows my excitement.
Hope yours lasts longer than mine. My led bulb made it through one ride...
Polish looks great!
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Lucas p700 today
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Lucas p700 today
ME WANT!
How bright is it?
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ME WANT!
How bright is it?
Same as the clear original one but with the classic look
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Laid it down on some ice riding it in for the brake recall on Friday. Mangled the rear brake paddle. Other than that, just a little scuffing on the front brake lever, bar end and Stinger exhaust.
I bent the spring hook for the exhaust back into position, loosened all the hardware, realigned the pipes and attached a new spring. The service center bent the foot pedal back into usable position and corrected the alignment.
I've ordered the TEC foot controls kit to replace the "fixed" pedal and adjust the foot placement. I'll try to take and post pics of that when I do the work.
Details on the accident - after weeks of warm spring weather, I had my service recall scheduled for 9 am Friday. Overnight temperatures dropped to 25 or so. I geared up for the cold, but as it was all dry out, didn't think much past that. As I was riding in, traffic in front of me slowed and I saw the wet road and cars moving around a smallish pothole. I just didn't factor in that wet in these temperatures meant ice. As I said, it had been weeks since temperatures were below freezing. I rolled into the ice slowing behind the traffic with the clutch pulled. As traffic picked up, I eased off the clutch and rear end spun right around dumping me onto the pavement. Why the entire road was sprayed down overnight in freezing cold? No clue. I could have avoided it by recognizing the water as ice and feathering the clutch to cover the patch, but it just registered to me was water. 100% my fault. The gear did its job and my body was unharmed. Got the bike up and rode it the rest of the way in. Thankful to have a solid bike without the plastics. Dusted off and all seems well with the motorcycle.
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Not today, But a few days ago. Deleted stock rear lights and fender, cut off old bracket and added LEDs.
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Laid it down on some ice riding it in for the brake recall on Friday. Mangled the rear brake paddle. Other than that, just a little scuffing on the front brake lever, bar end and Stinger exhaust.
I bent the spring hook for the exhaust back into position, loosened all the hardware, realigned the pipes and attached a new spring. The service center bent the foot pedal back into usable position and corrected the alignment.
I've ordered the TEC foot controls kit to replace the "fixed" pedal and adjust the foot placement. I'll try to take and post pics of that when I do the work.
Details on the accident - after weeks of warm spring weather, I had my service recall scheduled for 9 am Friday. Overnight temperatures dropped to 25 or so. I geared up for the cold, but as it was all dry out, didn't think much past that. As I was riding in, traffic in front of me slowed and I saw the wet road and cars moving around a smallish pothole. I just didn't factor in that wet in these temperatures meant ice. As I said, it had been weeks since temperatures were below freezing. I rolled into the ice slowing behind the traffic with the clutch pulled. As traffic picked up, I eased off the clutch and rear end spun right around dumping me onto the pavement. Why the entire road was sprayed down overnight in freezing cold? No clue. I could have avoided it by recognizing the water as ice and feathering the clutch to cover the patch, but it just registered to me was water. 100% my fault. The gear did its job and my body was unharmed. Got the bike up and rode it the rest of the way in. Thankful to have a solid bike without the plastics. Dusted off and all seems well with the motorcycle.
Bugger. Good outcome that you and the bike are ok...
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Did a bar end mirror today; cleans up the look quite a bit.
For some reason the right side mirror loosens by twisting to the right (clockwise.) No idea why--hope i can save someone some frustration on that one. Otherwise easy peasy.
Who made the rubber for the turn signal stalks? The things droop out to the side like limp schlongs.
The left/right threads are so that the mirrors will turn easily if they bump a pedestrian. Originally used by Yamaha and adopted by some other manufacturers.
I wouldn't have minded the stock turn signals if not for the sad droop. They were the first change I made to my bike.
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While it is new helmet day.... I decided to add the trim around the gas tank as of have seen some of you do. Very inexpensive and super easy to do. I think it gives it more of a finished look. If you are in San Diego or anywhere in California, let me know and I could send a forum member the remainder.
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While it is new helmet day.... I decided to add the trim around the gas tank as of have seen some of you do. Very inexpensive and super easy to do. I think it gives it more of a finished look. If you are in San Diego or anywhere in California, let me know and I could send a forum member the remainder.
Okay, now THAT'S a nice little touch.
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While it is new helmet day.... I decided to add the trim around the gas tank as of have seen some of you do. Very inexpensive and super easy to do. I think it gives it more of a finished look. If you are in San Diego or anywhere in California, let me know and I could send a forum member the remainder.
What product is that?
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Brake recall done!
(https://i.ibb.co/LSMWJ3s/IMG-9806.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/PrTCr07/IMG-9807.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/ZW6tGTQ/IMG-9808.jpg)
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What product is that?
It comes in black, white, grey.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMM66HB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMM66HB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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NICE Brakes? Are those Bybre's? I can't tell.....
Thanks for the link; may have to do that tank finishing strip myself.
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It comes in black, white, grey.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMM66HB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JMM66HB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
So, in your pic it doesn't look like you slipped it over the sharp edge of the tank. How did you attach it? Or am I wrong? I like the look, and it's cheap, I'm ready to order it just curious on how you attached it.
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So, in your pic it doesn't look like you slipped it over the sharp edge of the tank. How did you attach it? Or am I wrong? I like the look, and it's cheap, I'm ready to order it just curious on how you attached it.
It is... it is just that the seam in our tanks is around 14.34 mm and that rubber trim is only 1/4" (6.35 mm)
. So unless you find a taller one, 8 mm of the seam will still be exposed.
(https://i.ibb.co/858bk0y/Seam.jpg)
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It is... it is just that the seam in our tanks is around 14.34 mm and that rubber trim is only 1/4" (6.25 mm)
Ah, got it. Still looks pretty cool. Ordered. It'll be here today so I'll have something to do tonight while the rain falls.... thanks for the link and info!
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While it is new helmet day.... I decided to add the trim around the gas tank as of have seen some of you do. Very inexpensive and super easy to do. I think it gives it more of a finished look. If you are in San Diego or anywhere in California, let me know and I could send a forum member the remainder.
Do you have a link to the product you used, looks great! Sorry just spotted the Amazon link!!
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It is... it is just that the seam in our tanks is around 14.34 mm and that rubber trim is only 1/4" (6.35 mm)
. So unless you find a taller one, 8 mm of the seam will still be exposed.
Thank you for providing that clarification. I would also recommend those who purchase to try and get the larger size to cover the entire gap as a whole. Yes, the link I provided works, but I would probably just go wider to make it look ever more of a "finished" result.
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I took a quick ride and tried out my GoPro. It was attached to the chin bar on my helmet which created to much wind noise. I bought a chest harness to mount the camera and will try it out on the next ride.
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Followed BlackIce's example and added trim to the seam of the tank. I like it. And, actually, the trim covered more of the seam than I thought it would.
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Followed BlackIce's example and added trim to the seam of the tank. I like it. And, actually, the trim covered more of the seam than I thought it would.
It looks great.
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I took a quick ride and tried out my GoPro. It was attached to the chin bar on my helmet which created to much wind noise. I bought a chest harness to mount the camera and will try it out on the next ride.
Wind noise in your helmet or in GP footage? I use a chestie and ext mic (with dead cat) clipped to backpack pointed down which works quite well as it's out of the wind blast. Tends to record noise from my bike, not others in front but thats to be expected. Here's a ride from last weekend - https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE (https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE)
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Followed BlackIce's example and added trim to the seam of the tank. I like it. And, actually, the trim covered more of the seam than I thought it would.
Looks great. Were you able to do it with the tank in place? Or had to remove the tank?
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Looks great. Were you able to do it with the tank in place? Or had to remove the tank?
Tank in place. Just removed the seat to get the ends of the trim as far behind the tank as possible so it looks clean. It was only a touch of a pain to get the trim around the cables and bundles going under the front side of the tank, but nothing that a little wiggle and finesse can't handle. took all of about 6 minutes.
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Today I removed the rear shocks and cleaned them up. I then put them back on. That is how bored I was today.
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Wind noise in your helmet or in GP footage? I use a chestie and ext mic (with dead cat) clipped to backpack pointed down which works quite well as it's out of the wind blast. Tends to record noise from my bike, not others in front but thats to be expected. Here's a ride from last weekend - https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE (https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE)
Good work on the video. I actually ended up watching the whole thing. Thanks for the ride.
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Just the micro fibers daily wipe on the chrome tank ;D
Tomorrow I will go to the RE shop to have the instruments block changed, everything's ok except the knob to change from trip A to B to total which get stuck sometimes.
Well it used to get stuck because some WD40 cure the thing, but they insisted to change the whole block ???
So my bike will be 1.200 km younger tomorrow ;)
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My front wheel squeak returned yesterday so I removed the cable and shot some lube down in the drive unit. A test ride proved the squeak was gone.....for now. Victory is mine.
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Bars, grips, mirrors.
I'll get to the tank seam weatherstripping trick this weekend.
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Rode it. After completion of the build it was fun to get on it and ride
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Did the Hitchcocks adjustable levers yesterday. In retrospect should have gone with the short ones; but these will do!
Also rode 35 miles or so yesterday; nice day for it.
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Looks great. Were you able to do it with the tank in place? Or had to remove the tank?
Same here. Tank in place. Removed side cover and seat.
Today going for a quick ride with a buddy for lunch. Will post a random picture later today.
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Same here. Tank in place. Removed side cover and seat.
Today going for a quick ride with a buddy for lunch. Will post a random picture later today.
Tank in place. Just removed the seat to get the ends of the trim as far behind the tank as possible so it looks clean. It was only a touch of a pain to get the trim around the cables and bundles going under the front side of the tank, but nothing that a little wiggle and finesse can't handle. took all of about 6 minutes.
Cool. Thank you guys! Added to the list of mods planned.
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I mounted the little license plate, too small to be legal here but so much cuter, hoping the cops like the Doors ...
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Still waiting for the smaller blinkers from China, sure lost in the french custom labyrinth ...
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"Tomorrow I will go to the RE shop to have the instruments block changed"
Done too, my bike is now 28 km old :o 8)
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Well today I put the right side cover and the seat back on. Then I put my tank bag on ready to ride on Sunday as long as it does not piss down here in sunny Florida. 8)
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Wax on... wax off.
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Didn't lift a tool, didn't polish it, I just rode the sucker.
Imagine that?
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Took possession of the mk design front fairing/cowl and there rail tidy today
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Took possession of the mk design front fairing/cowl and there rail tidy today
I'm interested in your impressions of the quality of the fairing
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Same here. Tank in place. Removed side cover and seat.
Added the tank seam weather strip today. That's a nice tip!
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Yeah adding trim to the tank is a great idea, already had a couple compliments on it from a couple guys at work. An cheap, too. 12 bucks isn't bad at all.
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Installed my mk design cafe fairing today
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Installed my mk design cafe fairing today
That is sharp..
Did you have ti have it sprayed to match?
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It came from India in the correct white
It was not hard to install either
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Tomorrow I install there version of a tail tidy
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Installed my mk design cafe fairing today
Details!!
1. Did you have to lower the bars/controls?
2. Photos of mount/brackets? How is it attached to the bike?
3. Any stability issues when riding? Vibrations on the bars??
4. Is the inside nicely finished???
Looks great!!!
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Did not have to lower the controls or bars
The brackets are well thought out
And everything is supplied
No stability issues. I just went for a decent ride with it. Might need to adjust my headlight
To be honest the inside could be finished nicer
But for the price and the ease of install I’ll take it
I feel making the inside a gel coat like the outer part would be nice. But if a person wanted to you could spray inside with a black or some sort of liner to hide the roughness
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Did not have to lower the controls or bars
The brackets are well thought out
And everything is supplied
No stability issues. I just went for a decent ride with it. Might need to adjust my headlight
To be honest the inside could be finished nicer
But for the price and the ease of install I’ll take it
I feel making the inside a gel coat like the outer part would be nice. But if a person wanted to you could spray inside with a black or some sort of liner to hide the roughness
Thank you!!! Looks like I will be adding it to the mod list!!!
The other ones I have seen required to lower the bars.
Woohoooo!!!
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That's a good looking piece. If I had a Conti rather than the Interceptor I'd get one too. Just my opinion but to my eye it looks silly with regular handlebars but with clip ons or clubman bars......very nice.
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Thank you
I agree it doesn’t look good on the interceptor In my opinion
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Did not have to lower the controls or bars
The brackets are well thought out
And everything is supplied
No stability issues. I just went for a decent ride with it. Might need to adjust my headlight
To be honest the inside could be finished nicer
But for the price and the ease of install I’ll take it
I feel making the inside a gel coat like the outer part would be nice. But if a person wanted to you could spray inside with a black or some sort of liner to hide the roughness
If it's rough fiberglass on the inside truck bed liner might be an easy and pleasing finish. Please post detailed photos when you can.
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Sure
I’ll take pics tomorrow in the daylight
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Damn it, today I dropped the bike in the garage. Only damage is the brake pedal. It is bent to the point I cannot use it.
Does anyone know if it could be heated up and bent back to the correct lines?
Now I cannot ride I took off the left side exhaust and shock to replace both. Tomorrow I will take the right side off and the brake pedal >:( >:(
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Damn it, today I dropped the bike in the garage. Only damage is the brake pedal. It is bent to the point I cannot use it.
Does anyone know if it could be heated up and bent back to the correct lines?
Now I cannot ride I took off the left side exhaust and shock to replace both. Tomorrow I will take the right side off and the brake pedal >:( >:(
It can be bent back without heat. In fact, you might choose to keep the petal mounted as you re-bend it.
Two of these will do it. Post a photo showing the bend and folks like OleHogRider will tell you where the "grab points " are.
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Yep. That's an advantage of a plain mild steel pedal instead of cast aluminum. It'll bend back fine without heat. At most, you might need to remove the pedal and whack it with a hammer.
My drop was near the bottom of my steep driveway. Getting the bike back on it's wheels was quite interesting, since it wanted to roll downhill towards a ditch...
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Regretfully and with mixed emotions, listed my GT 650 on feebay ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114761231160
at 72 I'm not riding enough to keep two bikes in the stable ... and the V7III is a little better suited to these old bones.
I enjoyed the GT for short rides and making the many mods and 'upgrades' but now it's time for someone else to enjoy the bike and use it for it's intended purpose and not lounge as a garage queen.
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Regretfully and with mixed emotions, listed my GT 650 on feebay ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114761231160
at 72 I'm not riding enough to keep two bikes in the stable ... and the V7III is a little better suited to these old bones.
I enjoyed the GT for short rides and making the many mods and 'upgrades' but now it's time for someone else to enjoy the bike and use it for it's intended purpose and not lounge as a garage queen.
Somebody is getting a smoking deal!
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Regretfully and with mixed emotions, listed my GT 650 on feebay ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114761231160
at 72 I'm not riding enough to keep two bikes in the stable ... and the V7III is a little better suited to these old bones.
I enjoyed the GT for short rides and making the many mods and 'upgrades' but now it's time for someone else to enjoy the bike and use it for it's intended purpose and not lounge as a garage queen.
That should sell quickly, particularly if the buyer can pay now and pick it up in two weeks. I say 2 weeks because that gets the buyer a cheaper airline ticket.
I hope you will stay on this forum and share your "Out & About" on your Guzzi.
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Regretfully and with mixed emotions, listed my GT 650 on feebay ..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114761231160
at 72 I'm not riding enough to keep two bikes in the stable ... and the V7III is a little better suited to these old bones.
I enjoyed the GT for short rides and making the many mods and 'upgrades' but now it's time for someone else to enjoy the bike and use it for it's intended purpose and not lounge as a garage queen.
This is heartbreaking. As others have said it is a damned good deal. You'll probably get more attention here if you start a new topic.
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For those wanting to see brackets ect
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f1fKzBVQAwM
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For those wanting to see brackets ect
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=f1fKzBVQAwM
Very clever system. The base plate, under the triple tree, what material is it made of?
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Steel
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Installed one of these today
Just need to wire up the light
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=13EKNKq3VqM
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NV Ducati - Thanks for the input. I will be getting it all straightened out this week.
Gravy Davy - I could not pick mine up without help as it landed on the lawnmower and I could only access one end or the other. My kid came and helped.
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Ouch! That makes it really awkward, but at least you had a kid to help.
I had to wait until the UPS truck came by. It was a trifle embarrassing.
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I tried to straighten out the brake pedal but it is going to need some heat to get the wrinkles out so a change of plans.
I ordered the pedal from Wemoto and in the meantime I will experiment with cutting off the piece that the rubber goes on and I will play around with trying to make an old school end like I had on every bike until this one ;D ;D
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Something like the end of this
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Something like the end of this
I bought one from Tec Bikes but I prefer an old school brake pedal. If you come up with a solution I'd love to see it.
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Installed the Krator incandescent indicators in the stock location.
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I bought one from Tec Bikes but I prefer an old school brake pedal. If you come up with a solution I'd love to see it.
Not sure how it will turn but I will give it a go and let you know.
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I finally finished rewiring my Interceptor and getting my LED headlight bulb, Motogadget pin turn signals, Motone El Dorado taillight, and anodized aluminum switch gears working. I could only interpret the wiring diagram so far then used trial and error until I got all the controls working correctly.
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I think I've jettisoned all the plastic. I also installed the Hitchcock's USB adapter. I ordered their auxiliary splitter but it was out of stock so I made one.
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Added a few lights. For "Safety" lol.
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Added a few lights. For "Safety" lol.
That actually does increase your visibility and safety, according to FortNine anyway.
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After leaving it in acetone overnight to no avail and wasting money on a couple of thoroughly benign paint strippers, I applied elbow grease and eventually managed to strip the powder coating off the front fender bracket. I then sanded it with WD40 and three different grades of sandpaper, finishing off with a few dabs of Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish and a 6" buffing wheel attached to my drill press. (The cheap Amazon buffing wheel sent fibers flying all over my kitchen, the downside of having a drill press in your kitchen.) I won't be putting it back on the bike until I've finished taking the forks off, drilling a few 8mm holes in the damper rods, and installing the YSS upgrade kit.
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After leaving it in acetone overnight to no avail and wasting money on a couple of thoroughly benign paint strippers, I applied elbow grease and eventually managed to strip the powder coating off the front fender bracket. I then sanded it with WD40 and three different grades of sandpaper, finishing off with a few dabs of Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish and a 6" buffing wheel attached to my drill press. (The cheap Amazon buffing wheel sent fibers flying all over my kitchen, the downside of having a drill press in your kitchen.) I won't be putting it back on the bike until I've finished taking the forks off, drilling a few 8mm holes in the damper rods, and installing the YSS upgrade kit.
You're doing all this in your NY apartment - kudos!
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Nice job. I was gonna do that but it ruined my manicure so I painted it black.
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(The cheap Amazon buffing wheel sent fibers flying all over my kitchen, the downside of having a drill press in your kitchen.)
The upside is having a handy heavy-duty mixer!
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Nice job. I was gonna do that but it ruined my manicure so I painted it black.
I ruined my manicure about twenty years ago and never looked back.
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The upside is having a handy heavy-duty mixer!
Never thought of that. A heavy duty mixer is about the only kitchen appliance I don't own. Never got into baking, even during the lock down. Ice cream is a different story. You can just see the edge of my Musso Mini Lussino ice cream machine, which is kind of the MV Augusta of ice cream machines, with a whole lot less maintenance.
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Swapped the pegs and foot controls for the Tec kit. It was about as easy as the install video. I definitely found the allen key up from the bottom before pressing the pin down on the pegs to be very helpful. Haven't gotten any real miles in yet to decide on a final peg position, but my initial setting is just a notch down and forward from stock.
I love the way they look. Apologies for the poor photo quality. I just snapped phone pics quickly. I have about an hour of sunlight after work and after that it's by street light.
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Pics.
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Pics.
Nice. Brand? Source?
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Tec Bike Parts
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Yeah, sorry to split the post. I noted the work in the first post, but the pictures wouldn't upload so I made a second post for the pics. Apologies for the confusion.
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Yesterday, fitted a set of Verex polished stainless mufflers. Great weight reduction, nice burble without being too noisy.
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Installed a LED Headlight unit as the LED bulb was creating condensation in the housing and I just was not a fan. Decided to return the bulb and pay $8-10 more to have the entire unit.
In the first picture you can see that I am paying tribute to Jack Straw with his "Springtime is Bugtime". I though leaving the picture with my original headlight with all the bugs on it would provide you all with some humor, or maybe just me. Jack - I saved you a couple bugs from my ride!
For those of you interested how to install, it is VERY easy, but I also found a video to help you out as well if challenged on the DRL part. I will admit I literally blew a fuse on my first attempt, but this video here will help you avoid that. 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHIruutrBRo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHIruutrBRo)
Does not go with the "retro" look, but I like to see ahead of me and have people see me.
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A little look and function...
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LED headlight, adjustable Probrake brake and clutch levers, new Bridgestone BT46 tires.
Btw.: That round thing left from the brake reservoir is not a cigar lighter (I don't use to smoke during ride ;)), but a remote control for my garage door.
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LED headlight, adjustable Probrake brake and clutch levers, new Bridgestone BT46 tires.
Btw.: That round thing left from the brake reservoir is not a cigar lighter (I don't use to smoke during ride ;)), but a remote control for my garage door.
Send me the link for that RAM Mount you have on your motorcycle? Might as well send me that Garage Opener gadget as well....
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Gave mine a wash!
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I have so many tools and stray nuts and bolts I was confident I could make quick work of removing the fork dampers and drilling the six 8mm holes for the YSS upgrade. No such luck. I’m off to Lowe’s this morning for a 1 1/4” x 1/8” flat bar.
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A good clean, 70 mile run in the sunshine and then had its photo taken.
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Bubble Bath!!!
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Finally wired up the moto gadget turn signals at the front. Now I have to do the rear on Wednesday.
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Ordered Hagon rear shocks, front fork preload adjuster, heavier 10% fork springs, iridium spark plugs, engine guard, grips, brass valve caps...
Trying to find tires in USA. Ongoing issue...
So far my best search for road/track use here in California is...
Bridgestone BT54
110/80/18
140/70/18
I will put a build thread soon. Nothing crazy.
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Ordered Hagon rear shocks, front fork preload adjuster, heavier 10% fork springs, iridium spark plugs, engine guard, grips, brass valve caps...
Trying to find tires in USA. Ongoing issue...
So far my best search for road/track use here in California is...
Bridgestone BT54
110/80/18
140/70/18
I will put a build thread soon. Nothing crazy.
Hitchcock +10% prog fork springs were a fail for me. They were shorter than stock and compressed more easily, I'm going linear after installing the PD valve emulators. +20mm Hagon on the other hand are brilliant - love the extra travel and control.
I think your tyre sizes are perfect for the GT. Bit of extra width helps with grip and slightly lower front profile helps with turn in. I find my bike holds a line much than mate's Intercepter on stock rubber (new set) which seems to step out on corners more easily. Try and get the newer BT46 if you can.
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Hitchcock +10% prog fork springs were a fail for me. They were shorter than stock and compressed more easily...
Try and get the newer BT46 if you can.
I hope Hitchcock gets my email and makes that change for me. I ordered today and requested to cancel the 10% stiffer spring. Will go with preload adjuster and fresh oil or 15w and see how that holds up for now.
Have not purchased the tires yet, but trying to just find something available.
Truly appreciate the advise!!!
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FML... They really don't want you to have quality tires here in California.
I found the sizes I need but they are both Rear tires . No Front available. Hahaha
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FML... They really don't want you to have quality tires here in California.
I found the sizes I need but they are both Rear tires . No Front available. Hahaha
When you look at the photo it appears to be a front with a typo. Phone Revzila they are good at customer service.
There are some folks who run 150s on the rear. Maybe the Bridgestone users can verify. I have a 150 Avon on mine.
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When you look at the photo it appears to be a front with a typo. Phone Revzila they are good at customer service.
There are some folks who run 150s on the rear. Maybe the Bridgestone users can verify. I have a 150 Avon on mine.
I just called a local Bridgestone distributor. They confirmed they can order me Bridgestone BT46 and will be available in 2-3 days.
110/80/18 - $140
140/70/18 - $110
Not a bad deal and first time ever a front is more expensive than rear.
Side note: sent Hitchcock an email to change my front suspension order from a Fork Adjustment to YSS kit. Might as well spend the money and have a bigger smile on the track than regretting my purchase. Thank you Hoiho!!!
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I just called a local Bridgestone distributor. They confirmed they can order me Bridgestone BT46 and will be available in 2-3 days.
110/80/18 - $140
140/70/18 - $110
Not a bad deal and first time ever a front is more expensive than rear.
Side note: sent Hitchcock an email to change my front suspension order from a Fork Adjustment to YSS kit. Might as well spend the money and have a bigger smile on the track than regretting my purchase. Thank you Hoiho!!!
Nice. I think the 110/80 front has a higher speed rating, V vs H rear?
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Nice. I think the 110/80 front has a higher speed rating, V vs H rear?
Yes, you are exactly correct. Price difference for that tire from local distributor was $10. The other thing is the H is only available in 110/90. I will keep the 110/80 for $10 more and just remember to only go fast on front tire :o
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Well today l got brand new brake calipers Co Royal Enfeild.
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Nothing but checking the tire pressure and go for a drink with Captain Haddock in Moulinsart ...
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Nothing but checking the tire pressure and go for a drink with Captain Haddock in Moulinsart ...
I have no trouble seeing Tintin on that bike.
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;)
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Installed a 16 tooth front sprocket and small rear luggage rack on my '20 Ravishing Red INT650. Moto camping coming up!
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Replaced the factory air filter cover with Hitchcocks' alloy jobby. A 15 quid no brainer. Very happy with the outcome.
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Well l cleaned mine four hours after 6 months of hard winter riding nearly killed me, still not as clean as l would like it, so l will have a break for a few weeks, with polishing the alloy and getting the tar off the bike l think about 3 days to go, l am so knackered.
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Had my YSS suspension professionally set up, it’s made such an improvement! 👍
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I've just had a big suspension upgrade. The council have just resurfaced the road outside my house. Used to have the worst potholes in the UK. Could have saved me a lot of money on the bike if they did it a couple of months ago.
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I've just had a big suspension upgrade. The council have just resurfaced the road outside my house. Used to have the worst potholes in the UK. Could have saved me a lot of money on the bike if they did it a couple of months ago.
We dream of resurfacing. All around me in the adjoining counties they are resurfacing the roads whilst my county are still digging up the last remaining pieces of road between the potholes.
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We dream of resurfacing. All around me in the adjoining counties they are resurfacing the roads whilst my county are still digging up the last remaining pieces of road between the potholes.
My formerly industrial section of Brooklyn (largely deserted when I moved here) is covered in Belgian block and railroad tracks--a set of which run all the way into the lobby of the luxury condo across the street from me, the architect's idea of industrial chic. The city hasn't seen fit to restore all but a few sections of the Belgian block so the streets remain in the same condition they were thirty years ago when the neighborhood was littered with torched out cars and the occasional dead body. In a fit of nostalgia I recently fast forwarded through Scent of a Woman just to watch the scene where Al Pacino (whose character is blind) test drives a Ferrari through the old neighborhood. "Whoo Ah!"
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My formerly industrial section of Brooklyn (largely deserted when I moved here) is covered in Belgian block and railroad tracks--a set of which run all the way into the lobby of the luxury condo across the street from me, the architect's idea of industrial chic. The city hasn't seen fit to restore all but a few sections of the Belgian block so the streets remain in the same condition they were thirty years ago when the neighborhood was littered with torched out cars and the occasional dead body. In a fit of nostalgia I recently fast forwarded through Scent of a Woman just to watch the scene where Al Pacino (whose character is blind) test drives a Ferrari through the old neighborhood. "Whoo Ah!"
Belgian block and trolley tracks did me in on the streets of Philadelphia almost 51 years ago to the day. I broke my leg and slid my formerly mint 53 panhead half way down 9th street on my home from school. To this day I'm still pissed off about it.
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After I got the bottom piston on my front brake caliper to retract so I could put the pads back in place and get the front wheel back on (with essential advice from Zimmemr), I installed the Hepco & Becker pillion footrest relocation kit.
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Installed the front fork preload adjusters from Hitchcocks. Very easy install. Cured the excessive dive under deceleration, and, it seems, the handle bar wobble around 100km/h. A good pairing with the air intake cover, which has improved the open/closed throttle transition.
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I finally got the Stinger exhaust installed. Wednesday is supposed to be beautiful so I should be able to give it a full test. (Not a full test because the bike only has thirty-five miles on it and needs breaking in. George at Tec said it was fine to install the exhaust on a new bike as long as I break it in normally.)
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This may be cheating since it's not about my bike, but the rider. I am sure some of you in the US or UK have used the app OfferUp. Well I had to share what I found a TWO PART DEAL that I came up on.
Found a Dainese Jacket for $50 with a broken zipper. Picked it up and went to taylor to get zipper replaced. They stated $30 to repair. By the end of the day I will have a nice jacket for $80. WHAT A DEAL!
The same seller of the jacket also had a new Bridgestone tire BT-45 130/80-17. As a joke I just mentioned "I wish that was an 18 tire instead of 17". He responded.... "I am having a hard time selling it, do you want it for free?"
Well I guess now I own a $80 jacket and a Free tire. Anyone want a NEW 130/80-17 tire? Good Price 8) hahahaha
Was going to put it on my build thread as part of my timeline story but its not part of the build, so here it goes...
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I call that a bargain ... ;)
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I took mine out today wound it up to 7,000 rpm, gave the new brake calipers a good test to make sure everything A OK.
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I bled the brakes after the recall caliper replacement. Feels just like factory again.
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I installed the Dyno Jet Power Commander mapped for free flowing headers and mufflers along with the DNA air filter. The kit included plugs to defeat the O2 sensors and I installed bung plugs from Ticonindustries.com. I am about to take a ride and see if there is any improvement over the booster plug I removed.
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I installed the Dyno Jet Power Commander mapped for free flowing headers and mufflers along with the DNA air filter. The kit included plugs to defeat the O2 sensors and I installed bung plugs from Ticonindustries.com. I am about to take a ride and see if there is any improvement over the booster plug I removed.
Awesome! Would love to hear how it goes. Also, is that pre-mapped in the Power Commander software? No need (though I'm sure there's still benefit) for a dyno after install?
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Awesome! Would love to hear how it goes. Also, is that pre-mapped in the Power Commander software? No need (though I'm sure there's still benefit) for a dyno after install?
+1 !!!
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https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc (https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc)
Posted video of my son and I installing engine guards on his Continental GT
https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc
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https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc (https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc)
Posted video of my son and I installing engine guards on his Continental GT
https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc
Great video.
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The DynoJet Power Commander was available as pre-mapped from Hitchcocks.
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https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc (https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc)
Posted video of my son and I installing engine guards on his Continental GT
https://youtu.be/2NMnE1bsIoc
Welcome, glad your joined.
What do you say to the idea that all the members here send your son a list of really cool stuff for his new bike and you can do videos of how to install it all? :D
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The DynoJet Power Commander was available as pre-mapped from Hitchcocks.
Thanks! I looked it up and I see they're offering a variety of pre-mapped units based on intake and exhaust configuration. I'm curious to hear your impressions after a first ride.
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Brake caliper recall,nice job ,east Sussex uk
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New EBay levers and some sanding and polishing
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Took my first ride since installing the 16tooth front sprocket. Very pleased with the results. I did much less shifting through the twisties and reclaimed about 300 rpm at 60mph.. My average rpm in any gear now is 3k and will be curious to calculate fuel mileage.
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What did I do to my bike today?
Left it outside in the rain because the garage door broke. >:(
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New side panel stickers finally arrived from Australia. Exit INT, enter Interceptor!
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Installed fork gaiters and some Bridgestone Battlax tires 8)
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New side panel stickers finally arrived from Australia. Exit INT, enter Interceptor!
Just applied over the old one? What did you do about the clear coat?
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Just applied over the old one? What did you do about the clear coat?
I disliked the INT stickers so much I peeled them off almost immediately without any plan for dealing with the clear coat. I ordered the Interceptor stickers mainly to avoid having to sand and paint the side panels. Now that they’re on I actually like them. They’re not perfect but you have to look close to see they’re not original.
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Oups, wrong side, the arrow must cut the air forward ;)
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Would love to see pictures posted of projects, additions, deletions, etc. from your RE 650s!
Or even just cleaning, tweaking, you name it. What did you do to your bike today?
Windshield and oil cooler cover.
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Took my first ride since installing the 16tooth front sprocket. Very pleased with the results. I did much less shifting through the twisties and reclaimed about 300 rpm at 60mph.. My average rpm in any gear now is 3k and will be curious to calculate fuel mileage.
Can you please provide link to the sprocket. Im wanting to do the same.
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Can you please provide link to the sprocket. Im wanting to do the same.
Working on it, might be easier to give you part # and you can contact Hitchcock's.
Update: Hitchcock part # is 92729/16.
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Can you please provide link to the sprocket. Im wanting to do the same.
It’s much nicer isn’t it?
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Not today but this past weekend. Did the MK Designs Shorty Tail kit, CRG bar-end mirrors, Nuke Little Boy POP Exhaust, and Moto Gadgets front turn signals. Been ordering these parts over the last few weeks so I could do them all in one weekend.
Also, hi. First post. Not too good at forums these days. not sure how to attach more than 1 photo. Says I can do 4.
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I just looked at mine a lot .
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It’s much nicer isn’t it?
Best low cost mod ever, didn't compromise the available torque at all.
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Not today but this past weekend. Did the MK Designs Shorty Tail kit, CRG bar-end mirrors, Nuke Little Boy POP Exhaust, and Moto Gadgets front turn signals. Been ordering these parts over the last few weeks so I could do them all in one weekend.
Also, hi. First post. Not too good at forums these days. not sure how to attach more than 1 photo. Says I can do 4.
As I’ve said elsewhere, as an Interceptor owner I still think the Dr Mayhem is the best looking bike of all the 650s. The MKD tail kit really sets it off. Beautiful.
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As I’ve said elsewhere, as an Interceptor owner I still think the Dr Mayhem is the best looking bike of all the 650s. The MKD tail kit really sets it off. Beautiful.
Thank you! I was so glad they had it in stock. I need to clean up with some paint over the raw metal after cutting/grinding. I'll take care of that this weekend.
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Welcome, glad your joined.
What do you say to the idea that all the members here send your son a list of really cool stuff for his new bike and you can do videos of how to install it all? :D
I'm sure he is always up for suggestions. We have another 3 videos filmed and I need to edit and publish. More RE content coming to the channel. I'm also toying around with the idea of adding an RE to the garage for myself. :)
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Oups, wrong side, the arrow must cut the air forward ;)
Just switch the covers around. Will require a little brute force and ignorance.
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New side panel stickers finally arrived from Australia. Exit INT, enter Interceptor!
Ummm, that's pointing the wrong way mate.........
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Fitted my newly chromed rear grab handle and fitted 1960's tank badges instead of the Indian style
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Fitted my newly chromed rear grab handle and fitted 1960's tank badges instead of the Indian style
Beautiful. Got thing dialled Andy
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Big money spent today, dabbed into the Mothers metal polish FOUR times :'(
Next time we have a rainy day I may even use some wet and dry and cut the factory brush marks out. Must save up for a sheet of 1200 ;)
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Just switch the covers around. Will require a little brute force and ignorance.
Ah, sorry, I meant wrong way, not wrong side of course, for the arrow ;D
Pardon my english ...
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Called my local dealer for the brake recall, but they can't get the parts so I guess I'll just have to ride the bike some more ;D
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Brought her home. Only got to ride for 25 min before I had to leave town :(
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Fork boot installation video finally published.
https://youtu.be/X--0WqGPSLg
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I washed mine today and gave it a little waxing.
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I needed to make a tight U turn today and realized my elegant BAAK under-bar mirror strikes my left knee (pad), Maybe I can position it better but otherwise it’s going into the box with my other misbegotten purchases. (A small but expensive box.)
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I needed to make a tight U turn today and realized my elegant BAAK under-bar mirror strikes my left knee (pad), Maybe I can position it better but otherwise it’s going into the box with my other misbegotten purchases. (A small but expensive box.)
Not sure that I've seen those mirrors in the flesh.
If they are similar to these, they can be mounted up or down.
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Not sure that I've seen those mirrors in the flesh.
If they are similar to these, they can be mounted up or down.
Thanks. They’re not bar end mirrors but I may be able rotate them. The stem may even fit into the stock mount.
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Thanks. They’re not bar end mirrors but I may be able rotate them. The stem may even fit into the stock mount.
Ooh, I just looked up those mirrors. I can see why you want them, very nice.
Don't know what Baak's return policy is.
There is a company that is well known in the V-strom community who makes mirror extenders. If you email him in advance he might let you return his if they don't work for you.
https://www.adventuretech.biz/mirror-extenders.html (https://www.adventuretech.biz/mirror-extenders.html)
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Ooh, I just looked up those mirrors. I can see why you want them, very nice.
Don't know what Baak's return policy is.
There is a company that is well known in the V-strom community who makes mirror extenders. If you email him in advance he might let you return his if they don't work for you.
https://www.adventuretech.biz/mirror-extenders.html (https://www.adventuretech.biz/mirror-extenders.html)
Thanks again. I’m going to play around with the mirror and see if I can come up with a solution. Now that I moved the bike out of my dining room and into a parking garage I ride it more but don’t get to tinker with it nearly as much, which is probably a good thing.
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Just a ride in the summer feel (28°C), so cool today before the awaited storm!
Then a mockup with this old Jaeger watch I had on my R100, a little work to adapt on the interceptor to make it feel like an original feature, but nothing too hard to do.
I will show you if I do it ... or take the easy way of buying the watch sold at Hitchcock's.
Besides, opinions on this watch ? I mean Hitch's
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Bought a new bike. Ok, it was 5 days ago but I've been too busy riding it. Still no updates on the dyno tune of the 650 so I had to have something to ride. I got a Harley Dirt Bagger.
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Bought a new bike. Ok, it was 5 days ago but I've been too busy riding it. Still no updates on the dyno tune of the 650 so I had to have something to ride. I got a Harley Dirt Bagger.
YOU ARE A RIOT!
(how do you feel about adopting older children?)
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Met some dear old friends and put about 150 miles on the bike.
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Bought a new bike. Ok, it was 5 days ago but I've been too busy riding it. Still no updates on the dyno tune of the 650 so I had to have something to ride. I got a Harley Dirt Bagger.
You're killing me man ! If i have a bit more money and place left I surely would have bought this one as an extra! Magazine tests are so laudatory !
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Raised the brake pedal (ha ha, big deal, I know) and installed the fork travel range data transponder.
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installed the fork travel range data transponder.
Nice high tech part ! ;)
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and installed the fork travel range data transponder.
I'm using the Mono Filament Sensor.
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Raised the brake pedal (ha ha, big deal, I know) and installed the fork travel range data transponder.
We both installed the same device.... it must have been on sale or something.
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Went to my dealer. Had a "while you wait" appointment to get the new calipers.
When I got there the GM asked if I would do him a favor while I waited. He needed about another 100 miles put on a BMW so it would qualify as a Demo. I said sure.
He rolls out a new BMW R1800 with a tic over 200 miles on it. So I took it up the Coast.
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Well, dude, you must be livin' right. 8)
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A pretty good bike I'm sure ! No ? NV ?
Well, in a "roadster" configuration I think it will be damn good, albeit the weight ...
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A pretty good bike I'm sure ! No ? NV ?
Well, in a "roadster" configuration I think it will be damn good, albeit the weight ...
Yes, it is a good bike. I love all motorcycles, big and small.
The greatest attribute for the R-1800 is the wow factor (excitement). Those cylinders are huge!! I stared at them as if I was at my first strip show. As you would expect, the "fit and finish" is flawless. Did I mention that it has big cylinders?
I think there must be a practical limit for displacement on a opposed twin engine. If the R-18 hasn't crossed that line, it is leaning on it. Two 900cc singles facing opposite directions has to be at least a misdemeanor in the laws of physics. It is not a smooth engine. BMW does a great job dealing with the engine torque and vibration in the other R bikes.
This bike is actually easy to ride both at slow (parking lot) speeds and at 80mph on the Coast Hyway (sweepers). It never did anything bad as far as handling. Well, one exception, I learned quickly that my habit of blipping the throttle when down shifting will change a lane to the left.
Overall, I think the designers reached their goal. It is a very special motorcycle.
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Raised the brake pedal (ha ha, big deal, I know) and installed the fork travel range data transponder.
I installed mine inside the fork gaiter so no one would know hoe far my front suspension traveled.
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I learned quickly that my habit of blipping the throttle when down shifting will change a lane to the left.
Ha ha ha .....thanks for that I laughed out loud ;D
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took mine and had the first service 300 miles done
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took mine and had the first service 300 miles done
I did the valve adjustment myself today. I went whole hog and removed the tank. I never feel like a bike is really mine until I have had it apart ha ha.
Everything went well and was exactly what I was expecting....until it was time to get the valve cover back on. I have no idea how long I spent trying to get the bloody rubber gasket to stay put! I eventually succeeded, but if anyone has a trick to make that easier I am all ears.
EDIT: Never mind - I found the thread from last year. Next time I will use some adhesive to lightly bond the gasket to the cover.
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I did the valve adjustment myself today. I went whole hog and removed the tank. I never feel like a bike is really mine until I have had it apart ha ha.
Everything went well and was exactly what I was expecting....until it was time to get the valve cover back on. I have no idea how long I spent trying to get the bloody rubber gasket to stay put! I eventually succeeded, but if anyone has a trick to make that easier I am all ears.
Tack the gasket in place on the head or cover ( whichever your preference) with some black Permatex gasket sealer and proceed with patience.
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I did the valve adjustment myself today. I went whole hog and removed the tank. I never feel like a bike is really mine until I have had it apart ha ha.
Everything went well and was exactly what I was expecting....until it was time to get the valve cover back on. I have no idea how long I spent trying to get the bloody rubber gasket to stay put! I eventually succeeded, but if anyone has a trick to make that easier I am all ears.
EDIT: Never mind - I found the thread from last year. Next time I will use some adhesive to lightly bond the gasket to the cover.
Yeah, I'm with ya brother. Some folks (me included) have come to lying the gasket on the head with the half-moon in place. Then the cover. I use one of the thicker feeler gauges as a "spatula" to feed the o-ring into the slot. (nothing gets snagged / nothing falls up ;))
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Flying the Union Jack
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12k service - tappets were a little loose, left gasket on the head as usual and as usual it took <2min to out the cover on (don't know why people insist on defying gravity).
Also added some air filter viagra and a butt plug, just to see what all the fuss was about..
(https://i.ibb.co/266VCV4/Venturi-cover.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/48qfXmK/Booster-plug.jpg)
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12k service - tappets were a little loose, left gasket on the head as usual and as usual it took <2min to out the cover on (don't know why people insist on defying gravity).
Also added some air filter viagra and a butt plug, just to see what all the fuss was about..
+1
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Not much, but pulled the handlebar cross brace off, tucked away the brackets by the switchgear and installed car trim protector on the tank bottom.
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Painted the bar end finishers red to see if i want anodised ones .........
Not Sure .
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Speedo drive hub squeak:
Pulled the front wheel. Cleaned & re-greased everything. It was pretty damn dry up there. Snap ring pliers make easy work of getting the drive hub apart. Simple off & on. I took my time and it was all of 30minutes. 70Nm on the axle bolt. 20Nm on the pinch bolt.
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Today I started to install the Baak full exhaust. I ran out of time and also realized I need a 3/8 drive deep socket or a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter in order to properly torque the nuts where the header attaches to the cylinder. So one side is on finger tight.
Since there seemed to be some interest when I mentioned it before I will be making a full post once I finish the install and get some riding time with the new exhaust.
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Today I started to install the Baak full exhaust. I ran out of time and also realized I need a 3/8 drive deep socket or a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter in order to properly torque the nuts where the header attaches to the cylinder. So one side is on finger tight.
Since there seemed to be some interest when I mentioned it before I will be making a full post once I finish the install and get some riding time with the new exhaust.
They’re certainly beautiful. Looking forward to a full review.
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Over the last couple of weeks to a month....the full exhaust. Headers from Verex with my Dustland silencers from last year but yesterday the lower bars.
Aside from waiting for some spacers to raise the bars 20mm, they are narrower so focus the handling and tighten the steering. It really pulls the bike together if you like that kind of feel. I recommend
And also the Kreiga side bag.
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Other side
Have to say, i.love the bars. Yeah i do
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Other side
Have to say, i.love the bars. Yeah i do
Looking great!
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Now the GT foot pegs, then your done.
Should have bought the GT in the first place. ;D
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Now the GT foot pegs, then your done.
Should have bought the GT in the first place. ;D
I don't think so. I really wanted it but the posture is too low. This is in between.
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I don't think so. I really wanted it but the posture is too low. This is in between.
Seems like a lot of people feel this way, and not just old farts. My dealer is moving a lot of 650s this year, and says it has been 3 or 4 to 1 in favour of the INT.
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Seems like a lot of people feel this way, and not just old farts. My dealer is moving a lot of 650s this year, and says it has been 3 or 4 to 1 in favour of the INT.
My dealer just landed 12 bikes, majority of them were GTs, unlike last year. The pendulem has swung the other way around here..
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Speedo drive hub squeak:
Pulled the front wheel. Cleaned & re-greased everything. It was pretty damn dry up there. Snap ring pliers make easy work of getting the drive hub apart. Simple off & on. I took my time and it was all of 30minutes. 70Nm on the axle bolt. 20Nm on the pinch bolt.
Think I might need to do the same, Drums. I noticed squeaking last night when I went for a ride. Sounded like it was coming from the front wheel and intensified with speed. (Bit hard to isolate with motor making a racket.) Is that what you noticed?
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Think I might need to do the same, Drums. I noticed squeaking last night when I went for a ride. Sounded like it was coming from the front wheel and intensified with speed. (Bit hard to isolate with motor making a racket.) Is that what you noticed?
Yep. A little tricky to isolate. The employee putting grease on the relays wasn't the same one lubing the front axle spindle & speedometer pickup assembly.
It's an easy task, the layout is simple and intuitive. Just don't touch the brake lever and the caliper won't give you any fuss.
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Think I might need to do the same, Drums. I noticed squeaking last night when I went for a ride. Sounded like it was coming from the front wheel and intensified with speed. (Bit hard to isolate with motor making a racket.) Is that what you noticed?
It's one of the more common problems. A quick squirt of WD-40 will help isolate it, douse it, and go for a quick ride, if he noise goes away you're on the right track. But the fix is to take it all apart, grease the snot of out and ride away happily ever after.
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Thanks drums and zimm,
I saw a guy wedge some cardboard into the calipers to keep the pads open - think I'll do that so I don't have to worry about the lever.
Will definitely see if WD40 makes a difference before I get the spanners out.
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I, too, had the squeak. Zim is absolutely correct that a spritz of WD 40 will probably identify the problem but don't depend on it to rectify the squeak as it's only a temporary lube and doesn't last. If you you're too lazy to pull the wheel (I certainly am) try a shot of motor oil right in the drive socket. Worked for me for the last 3000 miles.
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I, too, had the squeak. Zim is absolutely correct that a spritz of WD 40 will probably identify the problem but don't depend on it to rectify the squeak as it's only a temporary lube and doesn't last. If you you're too lazy to pull the wheel (I certainly am) try a shot of motor oil right in the drive socket. Worked for me for the last 3000 miles.
Thanks Jack, if the squeak's the wheel, I think I'll do the job properly. Got time on my hands and enjoy tinkering and learning how the bike's put together.... though maybe a squirt of oil will tide me over til I have other reasons to remove the wheel, like gators and fork oil change.
ps, by drive socket you mean front axle or speedo thingy?
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That's the fitting on the black plastic speedo housing where the cable attaches.
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Bought a new bike. Ok, it was 5 days ago but I've been too busy riding it. Still no updates on the dyno tune of the 650 so I had to have something to ride. I got a Harley Dirt Bagger.
I sort of can't believe Harley didn't call this thing the Dirt Glide. Real missed opportunity there if you ask me.
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Quite a bit today... Oil filler cap, Brake Resevoir cover, S&S Pipes, Tec Bikes Low pro turn signals and tail light, Fork gaiters. Really happy with the look right now; not much else to do besides a more comfortable seat (going to do in the off-season i've decided) and the Air-injection delete kit. Okay maybe some other things down the road :)
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I left the baffles in for now. Not a "loud pipes" guy; but the stock were too big and heavy.
LOVE the tech taillight and turn signals. All Metal and not cheap chintzy plastic look like stock. Major upgrade IMO.
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Got rid of the ugly plastic turn signals and rear light. New is from Baak with Motogadget M-blaze Pin turn signals. Also replaced the original silencers with AEW TE102 some time ago.
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Oooo Rob i like those grips! Round taillight looks spot on also, especially with the solo seat cowl.
I also did K&N Air filter today with the DNA surround bracket. Was a fun and easy swap. Bike feels more crips now on the throttle response, and a little more quick and raw between this and the S&S pipes. I likey, I likey a lot.
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Thank you Rick.. appreciate it
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Yesterday handlebar relocator set and Fork spring pre-load adjuster
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That's the fitting on the black plastic speedo housing where the cable attaches.
Thanks Jack.
I had the bike on the jack (no punn intended) last night to install shorty adjustable levers (removed centre stand after installing 2-1). Spun the front wheel and all I could hear was a light hissing (not squeaking) coming from the caliper, as if pads were contacting the disc. Not a lot of friction but not free wheeling either. There's plenty of play in brake lever (~5mm) and also plenty of travel in the lever before brakes fully engaged. Could it be just one of the pads rubbing?
On my pushbike both sides of the caliper need to be adjusted to get an even pull. If one pad is still contacting disc when it's fully backed off, you loosen caliper bolts to frame and squeeze the brake lever to center/ align the caliper. Do the twins calipers have this kind of fine tuning/adjustability?
Ps, posted adjustable lever install in the relevant thread - pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/CgwEpuWztnWpHDNc9
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Thanks Jack.
I had the bike on the jack (no punn intended) last night to install shorty adjustable levers (removed centre stand after installing 2-1). Spun the front wheel and all I could hear was a light hissing (not squeaking) coming from the caliper, as if pads were contacting the disc. Not a lot of friction but not free wheeling either. There's plenty of play in brake lever (~5mm) and also plenty of travel in the lever before brakes fully engaged. Could it be just one of the pads rubbing?
On my pushbike both sides of the caliper need to be adjusted to get an even pull. If one pad is still contacting disc when it's fully backed off, you loosen caliper bolts to frame and squeeze the brake lever to center/ align the caliper. Do the twins calipers have this kind of fine tuning/adjustability?
Ps, posted adjustable lever install in the relevant thread - pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/CgwEpuWztnWpHDNc9
The short answer as far as your Interceptor goes is no, the caliper is not adjustable. I'll also add that some slight drag is 100% normal and nothing to worry about.
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Thanks Jack.
I had the bike on the jack (no punn intended) last night to install shorty adjustable levers (removed centre stand after installing 2-1). Spun the front wheel and all I could hear was a light hissing (not squeaking) coming from the caliper, as if pads were contacting the disc. Not a lot of friction but not free wheeling either. There's plenty of play in brake lever (~5mm) and also plenty of travel in the lever before brakes fully engaged. Could it be just one of the pads rubbing?
On my pushbike both sides of the caliper need to be adjusted to get an even pull. If one pad is still contacting disc when it's fully backed off, you loosen caliper bolts to frame and squeeze the brake lever to center/ align the caliper. Do the twins calipers have this kind of fine tuning/adjustability?
Ps, posted adjustable lever install in the relevant thread - pics here https://photos.app.goo.gl/CgwEpuWztnWpHDNc9
It used to bug me too; can’t stand any pad rub on a bicycle with it’s 1/4hp power plant. It’s a mind shift accepting it on the moto.
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Had the caliper recall done on Wednesday and polished my cases today.
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It used to bug me too; can’t stand any pad rub on a bicycle with it’s 1/4hp power plant. It’s a mind shift accepting it on the moto.
lol! I hear you! 😂
Thx for the reassurance, Zim
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Follow up valve check at 1,000 miles.
Weather's too crummy to ride for the next few days, so I decided to get in there to see if there had been any movement after the initial 300 mile check. Pleased to share that none of the 8 have budged. All were noticeably tight at 300.... eerily tight.
Now to button everything up and hope for a break in the rain.
Observation: an air injection delete kit that removes the hose feeding into the post-exhaust ports will certainly give more clearance for removing the rocker cover in the future.
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Observation: an air injection delete kit that removes the hose feeding into the post-exhaust ports will certainly give more clearance for removing the rocker cover in the future.
Or you could just disconnect the hose when ever you have the valve cover off. ;)
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I spent about 45 minutes (in between bouts of rain) starting my GT to interceptor conversion project. Pulled the gas tank and top yoke. Tomorrow, during torrential downpours, I can do some indoor work swapping the fuel pump, etc. over to the new tank.
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Or you could just disconnect the hose when ever you have the valve cover off. ;)
could not you block off the junction at the reed-valve inlets, and block off the exit from the solenoid valve, remove the pipe, and leave the solenoid valve in place? Defeat the injected air & backfiring on overrun, let the ECU believe the valve is still serving a purpose, and free up the space above the valve cover in the process? Everybody wins.
The delete kits provide a resistor plug- otherwise, the kit parts serve the same purpose, no?
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could not you block off the junction at the reed-valve inlets, and block off the exit from the solenoid valve, remove the pipe, and leave the solenoid valve in place? Defeat the injected air & backfiring on overrun, let the ECU believe the valve is still serving a purpose, and free up the space above the valve cover in the process? Everybody wins.
The delete kits provide a resistor plug- otherwise, the kit parts serve the same purpose, no?
For $35 I just fitted the kit from Hitchcocks.
I don't have to wonder if it is going to work.
In fact I did it on Thursday night in about 30 mins.
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For $35 I just fitted the kit from Hitchcocks.
I don't have to wonder if it is going to work.
In fact I did it on Thursday night in about 30 mins.
Roger that!
I've got the same kit on order from Western Cycle.
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As we are in lockdown in Victoria - I decided to have a ‘shed day’
Checked my ute - has clunk in front end ... hmmm sway bar bushes n links .
I’ll come back to that .
Oh a motorcycle ! Cant go out , so I’ll do all the little blacking out I’ve been meaning too .
Gear n brake levers , front fork brace , headlamp brackets , remove the guard extenders .
Starting to look more cohesive .
Hope our Indian friends get over the COVID - still l
No bar en mirrors in Australia - according to my dealer .
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$10 tail tidy
Before
(https://i.ibb.co/vvwymzW/Before-tidy-up.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vwsJMMn/Pre-tidy-up.jpg)
After
(https://i.ibb.co/KDdVX3X/Post-tidy-up.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/wK2xxQW/Post-tidy-up-2.jpg)
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Today I siphoned the gas from my old tank and swapped the fuel pump and gauge sensor over to the new tank.
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$10 tail tidy
Good job. I've been curious about shortening the turn signal stalks. Looks nice.
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$10 tail tidy
Good job. I've been curious about shortening the turn signal stalks. Looks nice.
Thanks. Was a bit of a phaff shortening up the sleeved nut and housing but I'm glad to be rid of that manky iron plate bracket..
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Worked on my GT to Interceptor conversion project today for about 5 hours. Pulled the existing clip ons and cables/brake hose off. New cables and brake hose, rerouted some wiring, and installed the new top yoke.
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Quite a bit today... Oil filler cap, Brake Resevoir cover, S&S Pipes, Tec Bikes Low pro turn signals and tail light, Fork gaiters. Really happy with the look right now; not much else to do besides a more comfortable seat (going to do in the off-season i've decided) and the Air-injection delete kit. Okay maybe some other things down the road :)
Do you realise that the centre "RE" section of the oil cap is only held in by an O ring so you can remove it and align it with the crankcase split line when it's installed and tightened up? If you are interested in that sort of thing.
Ciao
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Did my first ride with the EBC HH front brake pads. Definitely a worthwhile change. Brakes have significantly more power now, but still aren't grabby in a way that might catch someone out.
Also got some miles on the RE touring seat. I find it an improvement over stock, but still a long ways from "all-day comfortable".
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Still waiting on the genuine bar end mirrors #1990401 .
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I rode mine about 80 miles over the mountains from Prescott and back through Skull Valley. 8)
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Did my first ride with the EBC HH front brake pads. Definitely a worthwhile change. Brakes have significantly more power now, but still aren't grabby in a way that might catch someone out.
Also got some miles on the RE touring seat. I find it an improvement over stock, but still a long ways from "all-day comfortable".
What’s the exact part # and where did you buy them as I would like to upgrade them on my GT as well.
Thanks
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What’s the exact part # and where did you buy them as I would like to upgrade them on my GT as well.
Thanks
https://fortnine.ca/en/ebc-double-h-sintered-brake-pads-fa209-2hh
FortNine doesn't know that they fit the 2021 Interceptor, but they do. Their fitment database is just not updated.
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+1 on the EBC sintered pads. Definitely worth the few dollars and minor effort to install.
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Did my first ride with the EBC HH front brake pads. Definitely a worthwhile change. Brakes have significantly more power now, but still aren't grabby in a way that might catch someone out.
...
I haven't tried the EBC pads. I did install the Brembo "Street/trackday" pads. These were recommended by an early member who was doing trackdays on his RE 650. At the time they were only available out of Italy and fall between street and track use. I posted the part # in the cross reference thread. They are excellent. They come to temp in "normal" street riding and don't fade coming down the mountain. I got them from https://www.carpimoto.it/en-US/ (https://www.carpimoto.it/en-US/)
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Took my 150 lb boyfriend for a ride. Wow does the rear suspension ever work great when the bike is loaded like that! Makes me suspect that it might be over sprung. Has anyone tried lighter springs on the OEM shocks?
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Took the refectors of the front forks, removed the black rear mudguard extension.
Insulated the clutch cable where it almost touches the engine to prevent it from melting, put a small watch on the centre steering nut, fitted a Dart Flyscreen Classic dark tint, and changed the oilfiller for a RR oil temp cauge.
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Flyscreen:
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Insulation:
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Watch:
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Watch:
[/quote) did you get that off the net mate looks good been looking for one
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https://www.louis.de/artikel/t-t-analog-uhr-verschiedene-ausfuehrungen/10034780?list=fbff7593f4f9ddcf70f9bc1acc40760c
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Watch:
[/quote) did you get that off the net mate looks good been looking for one
https://www.louis.de/artikel/t-t-analog-uhr-verschiedene-ausfuehrungen/10034780?list=fbff7593f4f9ddcf70f9bc1acc40760c
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Looked at it. It was raining....
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Installed the 16-tooth front sprocket, stainless steel gearshift link rod and engine cover screws, and a bridged handlebar clamp, all from Hitchcock’s. I also removed the center stand. I’m waiting on a replacement for my defective O2 sensor which I paid the dealer for rather than giving them the bike for a week and a half and having RE potentially reject my warranty claim on account of a lot of mods that have absolutely nothing to do with the bad sensor. In a perfect world the dealer would swap a working O2 sensor for the defective one and call it even.
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I've been using the 16 tooth countershaft sprocket for a few weeks and I like the lower revs. I'll keep it on there.
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Not today but last week.
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I've been using the 16 tooth countershaft sprocket for a few weeks and I like the lower revs. I'll keep it on there.
I copped quite a bit of resistance here for that sprocket swap. Love it. Did exactly what I wanted it to 👍
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I've found that I like the slightly "taller" gearing, particularly in 1st gear and obviously in 6th. If one is a wannabe drag racer it's not the ticket.
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I've found that I like the slightly "taller" gearing, particularly in 1st gear and obviously in 6th. If one is a wannabe drag racer it's not the ticket.
I also wanted to stretch out the lower 2 gears a tad. I don’t believe it compromises the performance, possibly the opposite because of the extra length you can squeeze out 1st & 2nd. And she just hums where I want it in 3rd. I’m vacillating over reducing the rear by a couple of teeth to nudge her further in that direction ( sooner or later- too many other distractions right now). It’s interesting that someone here posted that the next edition has different gearing. If so, I’m curious to see what they’ve done. I’m betting they’ve gone taller.
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I remember reading about revised gearing in the latest production bikes but I don't know the specifics. Personally I don't see ANY problem with the individual gear ratios. Final drive, taller or shorter is really just personal preference for given conditions.
Any of y'all know details on the latest set up?
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Removed some plumbing.
Air injection delete kit incoming.
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https://www.louis.de/artikel/t-t-analog-uhr-verschiedene-ausfuehrungen/10034780?list=fbff7593f4f9ddcf70f9bc1acc40760c
thank you sir
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Removed some plumbing.
Air injection delete kit incoming.
Kit installed. Works like a champ. A nice burble on overrun. It's downright civilized.
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Kit installed. Works like a champ. A nice burble on overrun. It's downright civilized.
So exactly like stock, only stinkier..
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So exactly like stock, only stinkier..
better, only stinkier.
There. Fixed that for you.
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Looked at it and dreamed about being well enough again to ride it
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better, only stinkier.
There. Fixed that for you.
In what way better?
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Looked at it and dreamed about being well enough again to ride it
Godspeed with whatever ails you.
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In what way better?
Was experiencing the off-throttle deceleration backfiring & popping as other owners reported after switching exhaust and air filter. I'm pleased with the results. Bike sounds great. Popping gone.
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Was experiencing the off-throttle deceleration backfiring & popping as other owners reported after switching exhaust and air filter. I'm pleased with the results. Bike sounds great. Popping gone.
Interesting, thanks. I’ve never had that issue, before or after cans and venturi-mouth intake (oem filter). Booster plug does virtually nothing IME, but that’s neither here nor there.
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Godspeed with whatever ails you.
Same from me. Hope you mend soon👍
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Looked at it and dreamed about being well enough again to ride it
Hey, get well soon buddy, a cool autumn ride on our wonderful bikes helps to cure many ailments !
Lots of positive vibes from the opposite side of the planet ;)
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Arthritis in my hands, just started on medications and waiting to see how effective they will become.
Thank you all, enjoy your bikes
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Arthritis in my hands, just started on medications and waiting to see how effective they will become.
Thank you all, enjoy your bikes
Over the counter MSM has helped many with arthritis and is inexpensive. If your current medication doesn't give you good results please give the MSM a try. :)
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Today the Interceptor got his first oil change and valve check/adjustment. Intakes were a bit too tight and one exhaust also, but that's why they want you to check after a little break-in....things will move as they get acquainted with each other. Added a 16T countershaft sprocket to lower the cruise revs a little then sat and looked at the bike.....really is beautiful. :)
Found that the swingarm marks are off a little bit...not enough to really matter but using an adjustable gauge from my drag bike which has a point on each end that fits in the axle then points at the swingarm pivot so you can really get the wheel centered. Simple and foolproof. Then I looked at the bike some more.....:)
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Arthritis in my hands, just started on medications and waiting to see how effective they will become.
Thank you all, enjoy your bikes
Look up ‘Golden Paste’. In its correct form it’s just Turmeric, freshly ground black pepper, and a good quality oil(I use coconut).
It’s a very effective anti- inflammatory and you could possibly get some relief with it. I’ve had great results. PM me if you desire further discussion .
Cheers mate, Steve
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Today the Interceptor got his first oil change and valve check/adjustment. Intakes were a bit too tight and one exhaust also, but that's why they want you to check after a little break-in....things will move as they get acquainted with each other. Added a 16T countershaft sprocket to lower the cruise revs a little then sat and looked at the bike.....really is beautiful. :)
Found that the swingarm marks are off a little bit...not enough to really matter but using an adjustable gauge from my drag bike which has a point on each end that fits in the axle then points at the swingarm pivot so you can really get the wheel centered. Simple and foolproof. Then I looked at the bike some more.....:)
What is this gauge and where can I find one?
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Would love to see pictures posted of projects, additions, deletions, etc. from your RE 650s!
Or even just cleaning, tweaking, you name it. What did you do to your bike today?
Couple days ago I rearranged an almost completely cleaned up garage. Have deleted some large seldom used tools to get more space from this 1.5 car garage. Also trying to STOP with the procrastination regarding putting away tools after working on something. Anyhow ... excited about having enough room to move around easily.
Got an inexpensive moto GPS gizmo and hard wired it yesterday then a test ride. All these devices have weird learning curves and they seldom completely fulfill expectations. Especially when you are a tight as ... tight wad shopper. I wish there was a route preference selection like Surface Streets or Residential Streets or Cut-Thru Streets. Oh well.
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What is this gauge and where can I find one?
I use this device: https://www.profi-products.de/en/drive-chain-alignment-laser/#
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Couple days ago I rearranged an almost completely cleaned up garage. Have deleted some large seldom used tools to get more space from this 1.5 car garage. Also trying to STOP with the procrastination regarding putting away tools after working on something. Anyhow ... excited about having enough room to move around easily.
Great workshop!
I did almost the same last week when it was raining overhere, so many parts in boxes on the floor....
Bought four, new, larger storage racks, I did two now, two to go on another rainy week...
Amazing how many, long forgotten, parts showed up.. ;).
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I use this device: https://www.profi-products.de/en/drive-chain-alignment-laser/#
I didn't use it already on my new Interceptor, thinking it'll be all right, because bike is new...
Wrong.
Allignment was way off...but is now corrected.
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I didn't use it already on my new Interceptor, thinking it'll be all right, because bike is new...
Wrong.
Allignment was way off...but is now corrected.
Your chain is now aligned between the two sprockets.
Your wheels are not necessarily aligned.
Which is more important?
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Your chain is now aligned between the two sprockets.
Your wheels are not necessarily aligned.
Which is more important?
Always in connection with the markings....
They were off on the right site, that's why I used the laser tool, and the laser line was all over the place, but didn't hit the chain at all...
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Received the clock (same as the one sold by Hitch) I promised not to open it before father's day, I swear I didn't even have a look of what's inside the little black box but I'm still in hard negociation with my daughters for an earlier opening (it's in good way ;D)
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Always in connection with the markings....
They were off on the right site, that's why I used the laser tool, and the laser line was all over the place, but didn't hit the chain at all...
You have aligned the chain between the sprockets.
You have not aligned the front and rear wheels.
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Received the clock (same as the one sold by Hitch) I promised not to open it before father's day, I swear I didn't even have a look of what's inside the little black box but I'm still in hard negociation with my daughters for an earlier opening (it's in good way ;D)
Trust me my friend, you'll be better off letting them "win." ;)
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You have aligned the chain between the sprockets.
You have not aligned the front and rear wheels.
I believe I have,
What is the purpose of the markings anyway..??
Or are you saying RE's build quality is that bad..??
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Great workshop!
I did almost the same last week when it was raining overhere, so many parts in boxes on the floor....
Bought four, new, larger storage racks, I did two now, two to go on another rainy week...
Amazing how many, long forgotten, parts showed up.. ;).
Always with the racks, eh? One more here another there. I keep making weirds little wood shelf things for specific garage objects. Friend of mine manages a 24 Hours of Lemon race team and said he'd help me organize it better if I'd like. Considering it.
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I believe I have, What is the purpose of the markings anyway..??
Or are you saying RE's build quality is that bad..??
What I am saying is the you have only aligned the chain to the sprockets.
Aligning the wheels to each other is another exercise entirely and IMO far more important.
Often wheel alignment and chain alignment differ so one makes a choice...front to rear wheel alignment effects handling... chain alignment only effects chain and sprocket wear.
Which is more important to you?
This might better explain... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tkFJGpf6BrE (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tkFJGpf6BrE)
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What I am saying is the you have only aligned the chain to the sprockets.
Aligning the wheels to each other is another exercise entirely and IMO far more important.
Often wheel alignment and chain alignment differ so one makes a choice...front to rear wheel alignment effects handling... chain alignment only effects chain and sprocket wear.
Which is more important to you?
This might better explain... https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tkFJGpf6BrE (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tkFJGpf6BrE)
You're not reading what I'm saying.
Let's leave it, we're going round in circles.
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You're not reading what I'm saying.
Let's leave it, we're going round in circles.
Going round in circles can be caused by misaligned wheels and it is understood not to trust swingarm marks when aligning the chain.
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Going round in circles can be caused by misaligned wheels and it is understood not to trust swingarm marks when aligning the chain.
In my experience a slightly misaligned chain won't cause any serious problems. The chain and sprockets may wear out a little quicker, but how many of you with Interceptors have put enough miles on them to have worn out either?
If the wheels are misaligned to any real degree, you're liable to find yourself riding the worlds fastest shopping cart, and the out come probably won't be pleasant. In my opinion and that's all that it is, if you get the wheels properly aligned the chain will usually take care of itself.
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In my experience a slightly misaligned chain won't cause any serious problems. The chain and sprockets may wear out a little quicker, but how many of you with Interceptors have put enough miles on them to have worn out either?
If the wheels are misaligned to any real degree, you're liable to find yourself riding the worlds fastest shopping cart, and the out come probably won't be pleasant. In my opinion and that's all that it is, if you get the wheels properly aligned the chain will usually take care of itself.
+1
Motorcycles only allow for chain OR wheel alignment so a choice must be made which is more important.
A misaligned chain will wear out a bit sooner than if it were aligned to the sprockets but chain alignment is a SECONDARY concern to front to back wheel alignment as that effects handling.
Misaligned wheels on a motorcycle can manifest as odd tire wear or dancing around on highway grooves and other road surfaces.
Where have I heard those complaints before?
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What is this gauge and where can I find one?
This is like the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU0P4A?pf_rd_r=Q6689ASN51JZ4JFP9F4F&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=c52b75e9-a51a-4667-a125-46878c4ab007&pd_rd_w=yEDYH&pd_rd_wg=g4Tx1&ref_=pd_gw_unk
Same idea...mine was made by MPS but is no longer available....but same idea, hooked end with adjustable pointer to set on one side then compare on the other. My Suzuki has dimples on both swingarm and rear axle so the pointed ends seat when things are adjusted correctly but the Interceptor swingarm bolt doesn't have a center dot...easy to mark yourself then get the axle exactly aligned with the swingarm pivot.
I agree with other members who were talking about which is more important...chain being exactly aligned or the rear wheel, and I choose the wheel but measuring the axle to swingarm pivot only makes sure the rear wheel is square to the pivot...I take it for granted that the front wheel will align to the rear when running at speed down the road.
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This is like the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU0P4A?pf_rd_r=Q6689ASN51JZ4JFP9F4F&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=c52b75e9-a51a-4667-a125-46878c4ab007&pd_rd_w=yEDYH&pd_rd_wg=g4Tx1&ref_=pd_gw_unk
Same idea...mine was made by MPS but is no longer available....but same idea, hooked end with adjustable pointer to set on one side then compare on the other. My Suzuki has dimples on both swingarm and rear axle so the pointed ends seat when things are adjusted correctly but the Interceptor swingarm bolt doesn't have a center dot...easy to mark yourself then get the axle exactly aligned with the swingarm pivot.
I agree with other members who were talking about which is more important...chain being exactly aligned or the rear wheel, and I choose the wheel but measuring the axle to swingarm pivot only makes sure the rear wheel is square to the pivot...I take it for granted that the front wheel will align to the rear when running at speed down the road.
measuring the axle to swingarm pivot only makes sure the rear wheel is square to the pivot)/quote]
Yes, that method assumes the axle is parallel to the swingarm pivot BUT not that the chain and sprockets are aligned
And aligning the chain and sprockets does not assure that the front and rear wheel are aligned.
The way to do it to to align the front and rear wheel THEN adjust the chain for proper tension THEN get the best chain alignment WITHOUT disturbing the front to rear wheel alignment. At that point you can make a reference mark on each side f the swingarm for chain adjustment that won't disturb the front to back wheel alignment. Then things are in the proper sequence of importance. It can be tedious but we did it at the race track in pretty short order.
If one doesn't want to bother that's OK too. My bike goes straight and doesn't wiggle on grooves or tar snakes and I didn't take perfectly good tires off my new bike looking to solve an owner/rider induced problem.
I take it for granted that the front wheel will align to the rear when running at speed down the road.
That's a lot like ASSUME.
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If it doesn’t; either your headstock is not aligned or your frame is twisted, and you have much bigger issues.
Chain alignment and pivot-to-axle alignment are in perfect agreement on my bike. Factory marks are way up the wahzoo.
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If it doesn’t; either your headstock is not aligned or your frame is twisted, and you have much bigger issues.
Chain alignment and pivot-to-axle alignment are in perfect agreement on my bike. Factory marks are way up the wahzoo.
"Chain alignment and pivot-to-axle alignment are in perfect agreement on my bike" and that's great but has nothing to do with front wheel to rear wheel alignment. Notice the conspicuous absence of the word CHAIN in that statement.
The swingarm marks on my 650 are purely cosmetic and serve no useful purpose. I have ignored swingarm marks for 50 years and reply on measurement.
When the front and rear wheel on my 650 are perfectly aligned the chain is off a bit to the left.
Common street bikes are an execution in production tolerances based on the machinery, training and competence of the personal, and when the machines were calibrated last.
Royal Enfields are not built to the tolerances of a Ducati Panagale v4.
The reality is that one must compromise things like chain alignment and front to rear wheel alignment.
Since motorcycles are bicycles I choose to attain front to rear wheel alignment for proper handling and to compromise chain alignment at whatever shorter chain and sprocket life it may cost.
Of course everyone is free to do whatever they like but the facts are the facts regardless of how few understand them or want to understand them..
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Somehow I've gotten through several decades with motorcycles and have scarcely given sprocket or wheel alignment 90 seconds of serious thought. I've NEVER had a reason to.
I adjust my chain measuring axle center to swing arm pivot and I don't even look at hashmarks on the swing arm end.
If your wheels are out of line enough to be a problem you'll know it quickly.. Barring a very serious wreck it will probably never be an issue. Relax.
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For you maybe. For me that string method is has so much more error discrepancy than using a simple pivot to axle measurement.
I can happily coast at 100kph, hands-off - and my rear wheel is aligned to the frame and the chain is aligned.
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Great workshop!
I did almost the same last week when it was raining overhere, so many parts in boxes on the floor....
Bought four, new, larger storage racks, I did two now, two to go on another rainy week...
Amazing how many, long forgotten, parts showed up.. ;).
Would love to see more pics of the Hailwood Replica!
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For you maybe. For me that string method is has so much more error discrepancy than using a simple pivot to axle measurement.
I can happily coast at 100kph, hands-off - and my rear wheel is aligned to the frame and the chain is aligned.
I get the point of the string method to check front and rear wheel alignment. I'm aware that the pivot to axle measurement does not ensure that alignment. My point is merely that serious mis-alignment of front and rear wheels on modern undamaged cycles is so rare it doesn't rate the fuss that comes up on the internet. But then what does? 8)
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I get the point of the string method to check front and rear wheel alignment. I'm aware that the pivot to axle measurement does not ensure that alignment. My point is merely that serious mis-alignment of front and rear wheels on modern undamaged cycles is so rare it doesn't rate the fuss that comes up on the internet. But then what does? 8)
String method or straight edge more motorcycles are out of wheel alignment then you would think.
But I guess ignorance is bliss...
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For you maybe. For me that string method is has so much more error discrepancy than using a simple pivot to axle measurement.
I can happily coast at 100kph, hands-off - and my rear wheel is aligned to the frame and the chain is aligned.
Carefully done you'll find out how little you know and how wrong you are.
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Steve, you have to get over yourself. You have yanked too many chains too often. It must be hell to ALWAYS have to be right.
It blissfully easy to tell people they're ignorant on line, isn't it?
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Carefully done you'll find out how little you know and how wrong you are.
Since we are getting picky;
- I'm assuming my headstock/frame is straight, but you are assuming your tyre carcasses are dead straight and your wheels are perfectly true
- How do you know your front wheel is pointed straight? String tension over 2.5m? Thats gotta be super easy to get wrong
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The string/straight edge method only works if the wheel/tyre width is the same. you will be making it worse if you try and line up different width wheels.
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The string/straight edge method only works if the wheel/tyre width is the same. you will be making it worse if you try and line up different width wheels.
What! You need to learn how to string line my friend.
Ciao
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The string/straight edge method only works if the wheel/tyre width is the same. you will be making it worse if you try and line up different width wheels.
Rubbish!
This string system has worked for me for 55 years and all of the other professionals I've known and worked with on street and road race bikes at national and international level.
Firstly forget the handle bars they have nothing to do with making a bike track correctly.
Run the string from front of the front wheel (without touching anything) past the rear of the rear wheel.
Adjust the front wheel (turn the bars) until A and B are equal.
Adjust the rear axle until C and D are equal.
Go back and reset A and B again.
Now reset C and D again.
Keep doing it until no further adjustment is required to have A and B equal and C and D equal.
Now your wheels are in line and that part of your bike is setup to professional standards.
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Would love to see more pics of the Hailwood Replica!
Mille ( =1000cc) engine, Dr. Taglioni's latest Bevel Twin creation, Verlicchi 900SS Competizione chassis, Verlicchi Alu box section swing arm, 30L alu fuel tank, 1 pers. seat, Marzocchi M1R 42mm frontfork, Laverda 1000SFC front mudguard, Ducati F1 750 wider rearwheel, Conti 2in1 exhaust, Sachse digital ignition, MBP Collets, Tarozzi rear set, etc. etc. etc.
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Mille ( =1000cc) engine, Dr. Taglioni's latest Bevel Twin creation, Verlicchi 900SS Competizione chassis, Verlicchi Alu box section swing arm, 30L alu fuel tank, 1 pers. seat, Marzocchi M1R 42mm frontfork, Laverda 1000SFC front mudguard, Ducati F1 750 wider rearwheel, Conti 2in1 exhaust, Sachse digital ignition, MBP Collets, Tarozzi rear set, etc. etc. etc.
Twins! Superb, thanks
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Mille ( =1000cc) engine, Dr. Taglioni's latest Bevel Twin creation, Verlicchi 900SS Competizione chassis, Verlicchi Alu box section swing arm, 30L alu fuel tank, 1 pers. seat, Marzocchi M1R 42mm frontfork, Laverda 1000SFC front mudguard, Ducati F1 750 wider rearwheel, Conti 2in1 exhaust, Sachse digital ignition, MBP Collets, Tarozzi rear set, etc. etc. etc.
Good Lord those are beautiful.
Please- for every wheel alignment post, may you please reply with additional pics of these two classics. . . :)
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I use this device: https://www.profi-products.de/en/drive-chain-alignment-laser/#
Another vote, I use exactly the same device. Excellent tool.
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Good Lord those are beautiful.
Please- for every wheel alignment post, may you please reply with additional pics of these two classics. . . :)
In a way, they are the reason I bought the Interceptor.....
Both are not build for touring at all, and the Interceptor is...
Since a month I'm semi retired, and have a lot more spare time, so I wanted to pick up motorcycling again.
I only drive short distances on the Italian bikes...hope to do more on the RE.
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Just to experience your new "semi" retired status, you may try the "Coupes Moto Légende", if not already done. I went a few times in Montlhéry and once in Dijon, always a great week end with lots of "retired" famous riders on their original racing machines. When you once heard the RC 250/6 rev up on a race track you only want to hear it again and again and ... I've read there's a possibility that the Coupes could go back to Monthléry next year, fingers crossed, this track is mythic !
Your Ducati is so nice, but I'm in love with the Garelli !
Sorry for the off topic !
https://www.coupes-moto-legende.fr/
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Rubbish!
This string system has worked for me for 55 years and all of the other professionals I've known and worked with on street and road race bikes at national and international level.
Firstly forget the handle bars they have nothing to do with making a bike track correctly.
Run the string from front of the front wheel (without touching anything) past the rear of the rear wheel.
Adjust the front wheel (turn the bars) until A and B are equal.
Adjust the rear axle until C and D are equal.
Go back and reset A and B again.
Now reset C and D again.
Keep doing it until no further adjustment is required to have A and B equal and C and D equal.
Now your wheels are in line and that part of your bike is setup to professional standards.
Well you learn something new every day! What is holding the ends of the string so they remain fixed and unmoving?
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Just to experience your new "semi" retired status, you may try the "Coupes Moto Légende", if not already done. I went a few times in Montlhéry and once in Dijon, always a great week end with lots of "retired" famous riders on their original racing machines. When you once heard the RC 250/6 rev up on a race track you only want to hear it again and again and ... I've read there's a possibility that the Coupes could go back to Monthléry next year, fingers crossed, this track is mythic !
Your Ducati is so nice, but I'm in love with the Garelli !
Sorry for the off topic !
https://www.coupes-moto-legende.fr/
The Garelli Record was my first moped back in 1976, is has been long sold.
Years later I decided that I wanted a Garelli again, and started collecting parts, it took me about 20 (!!) years to complete it, I was in no hurry..
It's registered as a 50cc motorcycle now, so at 61 years of age, I don't have to be afraid for the police anymore...
Currently it has a 70cc cilinder with 21 mm Dellorto, single seat and mudguards from a Ducati Monza, Ceriani front suspension from a Kreidler, and it's color is Alfa Romeo
Red..
I always like this event, altough I'm not going this year, due to Covid..
https://bikersclassics.be/en/
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Well you learn something new every day! What is holding the ends of the string so they remain fixed and unmoving?
Presumably any sort of handy anchor - milk jugs etc.
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Installed the new “Interceptor” factory side covers from VintageParts, eBay seller. Received them in 3 days!!! An awesome shout out to the seller…
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Well you learn something new every day! What is holding the ends of the string so they remain fixed and unmoving?
Very good question. For the first couple of years using the string system I did as Hoiho suggested but then I excelled myself and hit on an idea so devilishly cunning I'm thinking it just may catch on big time ... I acquired a multi function tool called a wife. This little device has since been use for countless non related jobs and while mine after 50 years is still functioning very well I've been told they are still readily available and come in various sizes and colours.
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Very good question. For the first couple of years using the string system I did as Hoiho suggested but then I excelled myself and hit on an idea so devilishly cunning I'm thinking it just may catch on big time ... I acquired a multi function tool called a wife. This little device has since been use for countless non related jobs and while mine after 50 years is still functioning very well I've been told they are still readily available and come in various sizes and colours.
;) ;) ;) ;)
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"I acquired a multi function tool called a wife."
I've had three of those things, the first two were simply not durable......don't miss 'em at all. The third and final is invaluable.
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"I acquired a multi function tool called a wife."
I've had three of those things, the first two were simply not durable......don't miss 'em at all. The third and final is invaluable.
The trick when acquiring these things is recognizing (or lucking out with) the two distinctive types. Type A start well and get better with use, type B start with great promise but soon become not fit for purpose. On rare occasions a type A can be mistaken as a type B because of operator error.
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Hah!!! operator error is a polite term for what we Yanks call beer goggles.
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Very good question. For the first couple of years using the string system I did as Hoiho suggested but then I excelled myself and hit on an idea so devilishly cunning I'm thinking it just may catch on big time ... I acquired a multi function tool called a wife. This little device has since been use for countless non related jobs and while mine after 50 years is still functioning very well I've been told they are still readily available and come in various sizes and colours.
I too have one of these multi tools. Unfortunately my first model failed just out of warranty. The second model I aquired, by financial constraints, had to be a second hand base model. The base model has most of the functions needed to funtion normally, but does not come with the 'mechanical aptitude' mode enabled, I did try some recoding but this caused a temporary failure of some of the other modes so I stopped up trying.
Back to wheel alignment, I will give the string method a go using a pile of bricks, at least it will stay put and operate silently.
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Mounted the clock, father's day has eventually been brought forward ;D
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I spent an hour messing about with string. My multi-function tool had gone to her yoga class, so I had to make do with the jugs. I learned the string method, pivot-axle measurement and Profi CAT are all in agreement, but I now see the value of the string method as a more 'granular' method (and esp useful if the frame isn't true).
Thanks to 6504ME and JustOneMore for their perseverance.
(https://i.ibb.co/yg0TL76/Milk-with-humble-pie.jpg)
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I spent an hour messing about with string. My multi-function tool had gone to her yoga class, so I had to make do with the jugs. I learned the string method, pivot-axle measurement and Profi CAT are all in agreement, but I now see the value of the string method as a more 'granular' method (and esp useful if the frame isn't true).
Thanks to 6504ME and JustOneMore for their perseverance.
Usually works a bit easier when stringing from rear tire to front as the rear is wider... and YOU'RE WELCOME.
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Usually works a bit easier when stringing from rear tire to front as the rear is wider... and YOU'RE WELCOME.
Totally disagree! Running from rear to four vague front points is less accurate.
Hoiho you're onto it, don't change.
Once the wheels are true from stringing, if the rear axle/swing arm marks demonstrate they were stamped correctly use them and only string it once a year to make sure wear and tear hasn't upset things.
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I spent an hour messing about with string. My multi-function tool had gone to her yoga class, so I had to make do with the jugs. I learned the string method, pivot-axle measurement and Profi CAT are all in agreement, but I now see the value of the string method as a more 'granular' method (and esp useful if the frame isn't true).
Thanks to 6504ME and JustOneMore for their perseverance.
(https://i.ibb.co/yg0TL76/Milk-with-humble-pie.jpg)
I just noticed your wife's jugs, they won't keep the string tight enough, too lite, next time use full cream. ;)
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I just noticed your wife's jugs, they won't keep the string tight enough, too lite, next time use full cream. ;)
Yes, but too much milk fat and the strings sag. Jug perfection is a nirvana we all seek but rarely achieve.
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Usually works a bit easier when stringing from rear tire to front as the rear is wider... and YOU'RE WELCOME.
These bikes are well made, if my checks are anything to go by, so using any of the three methods will get the alignment pretty darn close.
I've re-punched the swingarm marks in the right place to make things a little easier when remounting the wheel, but will likely use the Profi CAT tool/pivot-axle measurement after adjusting the chain and maybe string it after replacing a tyre..
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While the string concept is cool and fun to do. I have realized that this motion pro tool is probably more accurate, much faster, and eliminates human error.
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While the string concept is cool and fun to do. I have realized that this motion pro tool is probably more accurate, much faster, and eliminates human error.
This only puts the chain/sprockets in alignment, it does not put the wheels in line.
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Playing Devils' Advocate for a moment here......
If one of the discussed methods of checking wheel to wheel alignment reveals a REAL problem what's the remedy?
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Playing Devils' Advocate for a moment here......
If one of the discussed methods of checking wheel to wheel alignment reveals a REAL problem what's the remedy?
Trading in for a Triumph. . . . ;D
I must admit it's been good reading the past week on this topic.
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Trading in for a Triumph. . . . ;D
I must admit it's been good reading the past week on this topic.
HAH, that's funny right there........Pot, meet Kettle 8)
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Playing Devils' Advocate for a moment here......
If one of the discussed methods of checking wheel to wheel alignment reveals a REAL problem what's the remedy?
By "REAL problem" I assume we are talking bent swinging arm or frame.
I purchased an accident damaged Triumph Daytona back in 71, it was seriously bent (frame and front end) after I straightened the forks and triple clamps the wheels were string lined as per my earlier drawing it handled correctly. The rear wheel was no longer evenly spaced in the swingarm but it tracked true.
So to answer your "REAL problem what's the remedy?" question, I'd say if you have a flash new bike your insurance company or dealer have to sort it out. If you are simply interested in the way it performs set it up true and ignore the fact that it looks wrong.
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Congratulations.........that's the right answer.
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Congratulations.........that's the right answer.
May I now mount a "Jack Straw Approved" sign over my workshop door? ;)
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Y'all have the official seal of approval. Now have a Tanqueray and tonic 8)
The sticker and cash reward are in the mail.........
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Y'all have the official seal of approval. Now have a Tanqueray and tonic 8)
The sticker and cash reward are in the mail.........
It's 9:15AM here, may I hold off on the Tanqueray until midday?
My sobriety is in your hands. :-\
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Let your conscience be your......you know the rest.
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Y'all have the official seal of approval. Now have a Tanqueray and tonic 8)
Bleech....Gordon's guy here.
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Bleech....Gordon's guy here.
Gordon's? ok for removing tar spots.
I am spoilt, my nephew is creative director here.
https://www.silverstonedistillery.co.uk/
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No point in debating taste in gin because if you make a G&T to proper potency you won't care about fine distinctions in short order.
OK, Tanq is my favorite but I simply like gin, all gin, any time, all the time. Hendrix,Gordons, Bombay, bring it on.
At this point in my life I rarely drink, but when I do...........
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Cheers !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxAdu_Aj3oI
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Good on Voun.......What's better than 12 bar blues and Tanq??????
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A little catchup since this is first post. Oil change and valves. Three were good, five were too tight. A little filing on the shift lever to get it to adjust right. Changed mirrors and grips, adjusted bars and levers. Removed a bunch of the extra stuff, painted most of the rest that was "silver" or gold. Emgo mufflers. Really like the looks and the lighter weight. But they are loud, even after stuffing them full of packing. I am trying to convince myself they are not TOO loud. LEDs all the way around (even the Trafficators). I am really loving the way it looks and rides. Best motorcycle experience I have had in a long time.
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Good on Voun.......What's better than 12 bar blues and Tanq??????
Open G and Guinness, maybe ? ;D
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Open G and Guinness, maybe ? ;D
Seconded. ;)
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Installed my mk design cafe fairing today
I do Like that ! ,looks good ! ;D
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Got a little sign made for man cave...
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Installed my mk design cafe fairing today
How’s the knuckle clearance on lock?
Looks great, BTW👍
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A little catchup since this is first post. Oil change and valves. Three were good, five were too tight. A little filing on the shift lever to get it to adjust right. Changed mirrors and grips, adjusted bars and levers. Removed a bunch of the extra stuff, painted most of the rest that was "silver" or gold. Emgo mufflers. Really like the looks and the lighter weight. But they are loud, even after stuffing them full of packing. I am trying to convince myself they are not TOO loud. LEDs all the way around (even the Trafficators). I am really loving the way it looks and rides. Best motorcycle experience I have had in a long time.
Pictures taken in Yoshua Tree NP?
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Installed the Dart Classic flyscreen. It was $120 with free shipping and no sales tax and arrived within a week. I prefer the Dart Marlin (bigger) but it mounts to the stock headlight bracket, which I replaced with one from Motone Customs. How effective is it? On my first couple of rides I’d have to say not so much. If it does anything at all it’s too subtle for me to notice. The buffeting on the Interceptor at 70mph is significant, enough to be a problem for touring. (I know it’s not a touring bike.) I may have to opt for something bigger and improvise a mounting system. If I’m setting off for a couple of weeks I guess I could reinstall the stock bracket but I’d rather avoid that.
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Hah! There seems to be an outbreak of Dart Flyscreens on the forum 8)
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The flyscreen is stylish in its way but doesn't seem to do much, at least at highway speeds, which is the only time you need wind protection. The Beeline on the other hand is awesome. It arrived in the mail yesterday so I've only used it a couple of times but I think it's going to be very handy, even essential sometimes.
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The flyscreen is stylish in its way but doesn't seem to do much, at least at highway speeds, which is the only time you need wind protection. The Beeline on the other hand is awesome. It arrived in the mail yesterday so I've only used it a couple of times but I think it's going to be very handy, even essential sometimes.
You’ve got that bike looking sharp blazes. I’m hoping you do a review of the beeline once you get some more time with it. It’s something I’ve been kicking around for a while. I like to wander around when I ride, but there are times when I would love some guidance beyond pulling over to look at google maps.
As for the screen, I opted for this one,
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/40627?ref_page=Interceptor%20650
after ditching the RE tall flyscreen due to fitment issues with TECs LED Kit. I was pissed at first since I liked the looks of the factory screen, but I’m so much happier with the Hitchcock’s product now. I think it looks cool, almost like a tall bikini fairing in shape, and it’s pretty darn good at deflecting wind away from the chest. I don’t think it would work for you since it mounts to the stock headlight bracket, but maybe someone else will find it helpful.
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Thanks JP. If I decide to do any serious touring I’ll probably install a full-sized windshield like the Givi, which attaches to the handlebars and forks rather than the headlight bracket. It doesn’t look too bad either, though I wouldn’t leave it on all the time.
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Pictures taken in Yoshua Tree NP?
[/quote]
Joshua Tree NP? Both places are desert, but the pictures are central Arizona (about 200 miles east of Joshua Tree.) They were taken on Hwy 89 south of Yarnell, Arizona.
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Took my front wheel and caliper off to inspect, clean and grease. Relieved to find nothing amiss; a joy to christen new torque wrench 🤗
Ps, why no torque setting on 5mm hex bolt at base of right side fork?
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"Ps, why no torque setting on 5mm hex bolt at base of right side fork?"
Some geezers might say that if a guy needs a torque spec for a small pinch bolt maybe he should not be working on machines. :o
Personally, I would NEVER say such a thing........but I know some guys who might.
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Took my front wheel and caliper off to inspect, clean and grease. Relieved to find nothing amiss; a joy to christen new torque wrench 🤗
Ps, why no torque setting on 5mm hex bolt at base of right side fork?
Maybe because it's actually a 6 mm bolt? ::)
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Pictures taken in Yoshua Tree NP?
Joshua Tree NP? Both places are desert, but the pictures are central Arizona (about 200 miles east of Joshua Tree.) They were taken on Hwy 89 south of Yarnell, Arizona.
Looks like it...
Keys View, Joshua Tree NP.
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Looks like it...
Keys View, Joshua Tree NP.
Yarnell, Hwy 89.
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Maybe because it's actually a 6 mm bolt? ::)
Yes true but the question of torque settings should be addressed as it comes up regularly. If there is no specific torque figure listed in the shop manual then you can apply the "std torque" for the specific size and grade of fastener. That's good basic engineering practice. I personally only use a torque wrench on head bolts and main and big end bolts pretty much but for those with less time on the tools a torque wrench is good until at least you get a feel for it on less critical fasteners.
Ciao
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Some geezers might say that if a guy needs a torque spec for a small pinch bolt maybe he should not be working on machines. :o
Personally, I would NEVER say such a thing........but I know some guys who might.
Geezers who'd say such things, wouldn't be being very helpful, would they?
But I take your point: I was surprised to see torque values for the licence plate screws, rear mudguard infill cover, chain guard, etc, etc. Why overlook the fork pinch bolt, which seems somewhat more critical than those others.
Not sure what function it serves (if any?), but being at the base of the forks, around the axle, just makes me want to err on the side of caution and seek surety.
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Geezers who'd say such things, wouldn't be being very helpful, would they?
But I take your point: I was surprised to see torque values for the licence plate screws, rear mudguard infill cover, chain guard, etc, etc. Why overlook the fork pinch bolt, which seems somewhat more critical than those others.
Not sure what function it serves (if any?), but being at the base of the forks, around the axle, just makes me want to err on the side of caution and seek surety.
They should be included as I went through page by page. Just check the page number reference and feel free to change the name to what ever you wish. I just created the document to make everyone's life easier with majority of the work completed.
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"Geezers who'd say such things, wouldn't be being very helpful, would they?"
Well, when I was trying to learn to work on bikes I was frequently told by old guys things that annoyed me but actually were helpful after I calmed down and considered their unsolicited comments. 8)
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"Geezers who'd say such things, wouldn't be being very helpful, would they?"
Well, when I was trying to learn to work on bikes I was frequently told by old guys things that annoyed me but actually were helpful after I calmed down and considered their unsolicited comments. 8)
That's the truth, a lot of time I got whapped with a grease filled rag to drive home the point. ;)
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New headlight and some replacement indicators before the new clip ons and barend indicators
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I'm really liking that headlight, do you have a link?
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Jack and Zim, Re old geezers: thankfully pedagogy has evolved from using put downs and violence to teach lessons. We now know that people (children and adults both) learn best when they they feel safe (to make mistakes) and are treated with kindness 💕🙏
BlackIce, The issues was the manual (not the torque table): it doesn't provide a torque spec for the pinch bolt at the base of the RH fork. Zim has kindly provided a generic one and Drums has provided one from the owners manual - see torque table thread.
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I'm really liking that headlight, do you have a link?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224374071229
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After trying many different ones, finally found a decent pannier rail for my saddlebag. Very happy!
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fitted my rear rack looking for a top box now
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I have a 39 litre topbox sitting in my garage gathering dust. I am in Adelaide.
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I rode to the dealership on Staten Island to pick up my replacement oxygen sensor. (I’ve been riding with an engine fault light for almost a month now.) The sensor cost me $120 and took almost two weeks to get here but I prefer that to leaving the bike at the dealership and being denied warranty service anyway on account of all the mods I’ve made. Anyway, replaced the sensor, cleared the fault with my BlueDriver, and so far so good. At this point I’ve put more miles on the bike with the MIL on than off. Thanks to everyone who helped me diagnose the problem. This is a major reason why I bought the RE 650 in the first place, it’s an easy bike to work on.
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I have a 39 litre topbox sitting in my garage gathering dust. I am in Adelaide.
a very tempting and generous offer mate but im in nottingham England a tad to far for a run out but once again thank you
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Last weeks ago
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Bell mouth cover mk2 (improved inside gutter for OEM filter).
(https://i.ibb.co/vmXmYbp/Bell-mouth-v2.jpg)
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The really LITTLE details. This came out better than I thought it would. Those are some really small letters that I hand painted blue. The engine case was somewhat easier. I used a high temp engine paint in Pontiac Blue applied with two different sized artist brushes.
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The really LITTLE details. This came out better than I thought it would. Those are some really small letters that I hand painted blue. The engine case was somewhat easier. I used a high temp engine paint in Pontiac Blue applied with two different sized artist brushes.
Nice work, my hands aren't steady enough for details like that, so I'm never satisfied with the results, but that looks really nice.
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The really LITTLE details. This came out better than I thought it would. Those are some really small letters that I hand painted blue. The engine case was somewhat easier. I used a high temp engine paint in Pontiac Blue applied with two different sized artist brushes.
Lovely. I think I'll do black, but only the clutch cover.
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Added a clock...
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/254960266212
Plastic bolt mounted through the wind screen.
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Added a clock...
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/254960266212
Plastic bolt mounted through the wind screen.
Nice solution. Mine is stuck on the fork nut but I like yours better. Requires less downward angle on the eyes. Well done!
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Brought the bike to the dealer to change the brake calipers after receiving the letter from the importer, cool thing. Then mounted one of the two touring seats we ordered with a friend in India to cut the import taxes (165 usd each, delivered in less than one week, taxes included, kind of a good deal) Now I'm looking for a steel or aluminium alloy cowl to put on, the only one I've found is for the single seat so I wrote to the guy who sell them in India to ask him if he can make a few for the touring seat ... I really would like a chrome or polished cowl with the black stripe and and the gold lines to fit with the tank ! If not maybe I will buy a black one and try those chrome paints, but I'm a bit suspicious about the result ...
Hoiho, where did you get yours ? It doesn't look like the ones we see everywhere on the net ... And your bike is wonderful (as the pictures you take !)
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As you can see, no brand on the caliper, I too am pretty sure that it's for sorting between the "old" and the changed ones
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Too lazy to take pictures, but I blacked out the intake covers and heel guard.
Oh, and added dice valve caps.
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Installed the OEM bar end mirrors. In order to work on the Interceptor, I ordered the bar end adapters for the Meteor, and got creative with how they mount to the non-removable bar end weights inserted into the Interceptor's handle bars. I will come back later and make some more tweaks, but it's summer and I want to enjoy and drive. Just got back from a 100 mile jaunt, and the position of these is SOOOO much better than the up-and-over style that came on the bike.
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A couple of weeks ago, I received an email about a collaboration between Triumph and Beeline, a UK-based startup that has developed a really slick navigation system (https://beeline.co/pages/beeline-moto) for bicyclists and motorcyclists. When I first installed it, I just used a standard bar clamp adapter, but that approach doesn't suit the look of the bike. I figured out a way to make a bracket that attaches to the two upper mounting points of the OEM gauges, and used one of the adapters that came with the beeline so that it is positioned perfectly above and between the two gauges where it is suitably protected by the genuine RE tall fly screen.
I also wanted an analog clock, but since I have the Motone up-and-over riser kit, (https://www.motone.co.uk/motorcycle-parts-c26/triumph-bonneville-c25/up-and-over-riser-kit-for-22mm-bars-black-p2156) I can't use the version that affixes to the top nut because the repositioned bar would block the view. The Marlin's Motorcycle Clock Talon Motorcycle Handlebar Mount with Traditional Black Clock Face (https://www.marlinsclocks.com/Marlins-Motorcycle-Clock-Talon-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mount-with-Traditional-Black-Clock-Face_p_96.html) was the answer, I think it suits the bike stylistically, and it is much easier for me to determine current time than trying to look at a tiny digital readout on my phone or on the Beeline Moto.
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From the get-go, I felt that the OEM tank looks unfinished the way the pinch weld is exposed and painted in body color, rather than hidden behind the frame or otherwise made less obvious.
In my early investigations, I saw several people who either painted it or put black tape to make the pinch weld "disappear" into the blackness of the frame. Neither of these solutions appealed to me: paint, because I don't want to do anything that mars original parts; and tape, because it seems like it would constantly becoming unstuck.
I also find the silver specter scheme to be a bit bland. I really wanted a Baker Express, but they're no where to be found within 500 miles of me. I "settled" for the Silver Specter because there was one 20 minutes from my house for the right price. But what to do about the somewhat plain tank paint???
Well, I found some PVC Seal Strip Plastic Edge Trim (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NY479XF/) in red on Amazon and thought I'd give it a try. I am *very* pleased with the results.
The edge trim has a nice glossy sheen that looks like paint. In fact, the texture is very similar to the texture on the pinch weld, so unless you're right on top of it, it's difficult to tell that it's not painted. I've had it on for 3 weeks and at least a 1000 miles, and it hasn't budged since installing it (no glue or adhesive!). I even used the left overs to replace the edge trim on my el cheapo Raider open face helmet, which you can see in sitting on the back of my Janus in the last photo.
Overall, I am very pleased with the results. I feel like the red trim accentuates the curves and actually adds a bit of retro color flair to the otherwise plain silver specter tank.
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Nice touch. Good eye.
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A couple of weeks ago, I received an email about a collaboration between Triumph and Beeline, a UK-based startup that has developed a really slick navigation system (https://beeline.co/pages/beeline-moto) for bicyclists and motorcyclists. When I first installed it, I just used a standard bar clamp adapter, but that approach doesn't suit the look of the bike. I figured out a way to make a bracket that attaches to the two upper mounting points of the OEM gauges, and used one of the adapters that came with the beeline so that it is positioned perfectly above and between the two gauges where it is suitably protected by the genuine RE tall fly screen.
I also wanted an analog clock, but since I have the Motone up-and-over riser kit, (https://www.motone.co.uk/motorcycle-parts-c26/triumph-bonneville-c25/up-and-over-riser-kit-for-22mm-bars-black-p2156) I can't use the version that affixes to the top nut because the repositioned bar would block the view. The Marlin's Motorcycle Clock Talon Motorcycle Handlebar Mount with Traditional Black Clock Face (https://www.marlinsclocks.com/Marlins-Motorcycle-Clock-Talon-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Mount-with-Traditional-Black-Clock-Face_p_96.html) was the answer, I think it suits the bike stylistically, and it is much easier for me to determine current time than trying to look at a tiny digital readout on my phone or on the Beeline Moto.
I have been curious about the Beeline since 2015 when it first debuted. I have followed its progress pretty closely and while I don't have one, I believe they're onto something with the simple approach.
Curious as to your experience with it in use: is it laggy at all? That was a big criticism early on. Also curious about the mounting bracket you fabricated. Looks amazing.
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I love the Beeline Moto. It is so simple and intuitive to understand. I missed one turn about 20 miles into my first trip with it, but it was a tricky intersection (tee intersection plus a wye) in an area with which I was unfamiliar, but it immediately alerted me that I had driven past the correct navigation point. It instantly recalculated a route, although I pulled a u-turn to get back on course. Haven't missed a turn since.
I was a bit concerned about the display in different lighting conditions, but it has been a complete non-issue. As my eyes have grown older, small text is harder to pick out especially in low-light, but this thing is a piece of cake to read and follow even when wearing sunglasses.
The app is amazing. It works the way Google maps SHOULD work by letting you pick EXACTLY what roads you want to follow. And the compass feature allows you to make up a route on the fly and then save it when you end the trip for future reference. The app keeps a separate list of "routes" and "journeys", which is really cool because you can start with a pre-planned route, but if you improvise, at the end of that journey, you can save it as both the journey itself AND a new route.
I'll take some pix of the bracket this weekend...have to remove the fly screen to show it.
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I love the Beeline Moto. It is so simple and intuitive to understand. I missed one turn about 20 miles into my first trip with it, but it was a tricky intersection (tee intersection plus a wye) in an area with which I was unfamiliar, but it immediately alerted me that I had driven past the correct navigation point. It instantly recalculated a route, although I pulled a u-turn to get back on course. Haven't missed a turn since.
I was a bit concerned about the display in different lighting conditions, but it has been a complete non-issue. As my eyes have grown older, small text is harder to pick out especially in low-light, but this thing is a piece of cake to read and follow even when wearing sunglasses.
The app is amazing. It works the way Google maps SHOULD work by letting you pick EXACTLY what roads you want to follow. And the compass feature allows you to make up a route on the fly and then save it when you end the trip for future reference. The app keeps a separate list of "routes" and "journeys", which is really cool because you can start with a pre-planned route, but if you improvise, at the end of that journey, you can save it as both the journey itself AND a new route.
I'll take some pix of the bracket this weekend...have to remove the fly screen to show it.
I've been using the Beeline for a couple of weeks and I'm also a big fan. The only time it's confused me was once or twice when I reached my destination without realizing it. It's simple to use, re-calibrates if you get distracted and miss a turn, and is quite flexible about letting you choose your route. Well worth the money.
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Brought the bike to the dealer to change the brake calipers after receiving the letter from the importer, cool thing. Then mounted one of the two touring seats we ordered with a friend in India to cut the import taxes (165 usd each, delivered in less than one week, taxes included, kind of a good deal) Now I'm looking for a steel or aluminium alloy cowl to put on, the only one I've found is for the single seat so I wrote to the guy who sell them in India to ask him if he can make a few for the touring seat ... I really would like a chrome or polished cowl with the black stripe and and the gold lines to fit with the tank ! If not maybe I will buy a black one and try those chrome paints, but I'm a bit suspicious about the result ...
Hoiho, where did you get yours ? It doesn't look like the ones we see everywhere on the net ... And your bike is wonderful (as the pictures you take !)
Cheers! I repainted the white panels silver on mine. It has a nicely finished exterior but just bare fibreglass inside. Slides on and has three velcro straps which hold it securely. I've never taken mine off as I have another seat designed for a pillion. They would probably paint it how you want it if you ask them, as they are made to order.
https://autologuedesign.com/products/royal-enfield-the-reck-add-on-seat-cowl?variant=39352135811265 (https://autologuedesign.com/products/royal-enfield-the-reck-add-on-seat-cowl?variant=39352135811265)
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Just installed the TEC footpeg and lever kit. If I never see another cotter pin again it'll be too soon. Those spring fought me all the way.
Unfortunately I've got a feeling I'm going to want to pull them and put in the 40mm arms eventually. :facepalm:
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First service. All but one of the valves were too tight. Spark plugs were only finger tight and a clutch cable retainer was not inserted into the frame correctly. Otherwise went well the old oil looked 5000 miles old not 300.
Bike quite a bit perkier with the correct valve clearances. They are quite nice to work on I thought.
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Installed some wider Renthal bars. Feels a tad bit less nimble, but much easier to manage at slower speeds. Did one of the tightest u-turns I've ever managed while testing them out. Also feels like it'll be much easier on my back. The tight posture the stock bars put me in always left my shoulders knotted up after a few hours riding.
Didn't leave the neighborhood, though, so we'll see how it is on some twisties another day.
Coming up this week is new levers, a windscreen that's currently being painted, and some replacement parts that're coming from the dealer to correct shipping damage. Once I get the damaged parts replaced I'll share some pics but right now it's not fair to her to show everyone her dents and scratches.
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New sign for the garaj mahal.
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... Beeline ... When I first installed it, I just used a standard bar clamp adapter, but that approach doesn't suit the look of the bike. I figured out a way to make a bracket that attaches to the two upper mounting points of the OEM gauges, and used one of the adapters that came with the beeline so that it is positioned perfectly above and between the two gauges where it is suitably protected by the genuine RE tall fly screen.
Thanks for posting this. I've had my eye on a Beeline (or perhaps even the Tripper from the RE Meteor, if it's ever available as an accessory) for some time and this is exactly how I planned to mount it. I have the tall flyscreen too.
Good to see one 'in the flesh' and to know it fits and looks OK in that location.
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Cheers! I repainted the white panels silver on mine. It has a nicely finished exterior but just bare fibreglass inside. Slides on and has three velcro straps which hold it securely. I've never taken mine off as I have another seat designed for a pillion. They would probably paint it how you want it if you ask them, as they are made to order.
https://autologuedesign.com/products/royal-enfield-the-reck-add-on-seat-cowl?variant=39352135811265 (https://autologuedesign.com/products/royal-enfield-the-reck-add-on-seat-cowl?variant=39352135811265)
Thanks a lot for the link ! I will ask them what they could do for the painting I'd like, and if they may send it to France ...
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Nothing special, just rode it over the mountains and back. I honked at a pair of Javelina and dodged about a zillion quail running across the road.
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Replaced a bunch of parts that were damaged in shipping from India, painted the fork brace black because it was awful, installed the Continental GT Premium Touring seat w/ black cowl, continued working on the front fairing/windscreen to try to get it all pretty glossy black. Need to find a suitable setting for a photo shoot but it's gonna be rainy AF all week. Yay.
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suitable setting for a photo shoot but it's gonna be rainy AF all week
Bad weather makes for great photography. Clouds diffuse and soften the light, and rain saturates the colors.
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Bad weather makes for great photography. Clouds diffuse and soften the light, and rain saturates the colors.
Yeah, but I'm a wuss and don't want to get wet. ;D
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Yeah, but I'm a wuss and don't want to get wet. ;D
No guts no glory ;D
JK...I'm a total wuss too, haven't mustered the courage to attempt riding in the wet yet.
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Nothing special, just rode it over the mountains and back. I honked at a pair of Javelina and dodged about a zillion quail running across the road.
Sounds like lunch to me
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No guts no glory ;D
JK...I'm a total wuss too, haven't mustered the courage to attempt riding in the wet yet.
Just wondering what you do when you're out riding and get caught in the rain? ;)
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Last night, I installed the Hitchcocks Handlebar Mirror Blanking Plugs (https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/mirrors/11661) into the OEM mirror mounts on the Silver Specter.
When I first installed the genuine RE bar-end mirrors, I used some black plastic plugs which I thought looked really nice, so I wasn't sure I was going to switch the screws. But when they arrived, I was pleasantly surprised how nice they were...high polish stainless steel. So in they went.
In these photos, you can see the genuine RE billet cover on the brake master cylinder, as well as the TEC adjustable control levers (https://www.tecbikepartsusa.com/TEC_CNC_Alloy_Adjustable_Lever_Set_for_RE650_p/re-cnc-fbcl.htm), which I am very happy with. I will probably never adjust them beyond the #1 position, but they look 1000% better than the pot metal OEM units, and they have a much nicer feel to them all around.
I also installed a KiWAV Motorcycle Throttle Holder Cruise Assist Rocker Rest Accelerator Assistant Universal (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YEYLFI/). Someone else posted about this device, and it was so inexpensive I decided to give it a try. I took a quick short spin last night, and I am very pleased so far. With careful positioning, you can orient the assist device so that it doesn't interfere with low-speed / fine throttle control, while also allowing you to hold it down with the heel of your hand at cruising speed. Even on a short 5 minute ride, I could feel the blood circulating better when I relaxed my grip and used my wrist to maintain speed. I am optimistic this device will make long-distance riding even more comfortable and enjoyable. Will report back once I've had a chance to get more acquainted with it.
Finally, I removed the windscreen, detasselers, and "mickey mouse" mirrors from the Janus, and installed some inexpensive DREAMIZER Universal Motorcycle Bar End Mirrors (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08QMKH9J8/). One of my complaints about the Janus is that it is so lightweight that it is very susceptible to wind blasts and buffeting. But after reading some other posts about the affect of the "mickey mouse" style mirrors on the REs, I figured I'd give it a try on the Janus to see if it made a difference. I had added the windscreen in an attempt to help reduce buffeting on the rider. It did help, but the bike was still very squirrelly at highway speeds, especially with the typical windy conditions we get in the Chicagoland area.
I took the Janus on a 30 mile ride yesterday afternoon, and it was a completely different riding experience!!! I think the detasselers and the high position of the stock mirrors were causing most of the problems. I also think the bike looks better with less clutter on the front end.
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Just wondering what you do when you're out riding and get caught in the rain? ;)
I've only been riding for 3 seasons. I've actually never been caught out yet. I do have rain gear, and I'm sure it will happen one day as I continue to gain confidence and venture further and longer.
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I've only been riding for 3 seasons. I've actually never been caught out yet. I do have rain gear, and I'm sure it will happen one day as I continue to gain confidence and venture further and longer.
If you want to become a good rider learn to ride in all conditions. 8) On that same note it's amazing how pleasant a ride in a gentle late summer rain can be. ;)
If you really want to become a good rider embrace every motorcycle riding experience you can. I've been riding for 55 years now, and I've tried to do everything that can be done on a motorcycle, there's one or two items left on the check list, but for the most part I've accomplished my goal.
Trust me it never gets old. ;)
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I've only been riding for 3 seasons. I've actually never been caught out yet. I do have rain gear, and I'm sure it will happen one day as I continue to gain confidence and venture further and longer.
I understand your thinking. Personally, I would test my rain gear under controlled circumstances ie; a planned, close to home ride as opposed to 2 hours from home. I think very few folks get it just right on the first try.
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If you really want to become a good rider embrace every motorcycle riding experience you can.
That's one reason I want to get one of those new Honda CRF300L dual sports (or similar) and explore off-road riding. I figure that, in addition to the fun factor itself, I will become a better rider with varying street conditions.
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This is all good advice, and I will definitely be addressing riding in the wet in the near future, as I have aspirations of some long moto-camping adventures!
They say there are two kinds of riders: those who have put the bike down, and those who WILL put the bike down. I had my first down last summer on the Janus. I was riding on some back roads in Indiana paved using a material called "mercatum" (sp???). It is a hard pack limestone material that usually hardens to the consistency of concrete. As I was coasting to a 4-way stop and just started to lean to position for the right hand turn, the back tire hit some loose material and I was on the ground before I knew what happened. Despite wearing armored gloves, I sustained a minor abrasion on the palm of my right hand, but was otherwise uninjured. It did take some effort to get the bike off of my right leg, and I'm glad it wasn't on the other side, or the high scrambler exhaust probably would have burned me.
I approach uncertain surfaces with great care and trepidation now, as I do NOT want to put either of my REs down. The thought of being pinned under a 450# machine on a back road with sparse opportunity for assistance is not something I relish. I aspire to take some additional riding classes which will undoubtedly help me overcome my hesitation.
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I understand your thinking. Personally, I would test my rain gear under controlled circumstances ie; a planned, close to home ride as opposed to 2 hours from home. I think very few folks get it just right on the first try.
That sounds like the voice of experience. ;) It's also worth practicing getting your rain gear on quickly. There's nothing worse than struggling with your rain suit while you get soaked to the bone in a sudden down pour.
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That's one reason I want to get one of those new Honda CRF300L dual sports (or similar) and explore off-road riding. I figure that, in addition to the fun factor itself, I will become a better rider with varying street conditions.
You're absolutely correct. Learning to ride on loose surfaces will make you a much better street rider. You can do stuff on dirt, like learning to recover from a front wheel slide, that would put you in a world of hurt on the street. I firmly believe that riding has to be instinctual. There's just not enough time to think about a maneuver and then execute it. Riding off road teaches you how to ride on instinctively a lot quicker and safer than riding solely on the road ever will.
FWIW a lot of racers train on things like CR150 Honda's. They'll do everything a big bike will and usually a lot quicker, but when you inevitably bail on the thing it doesn't hurt so bad. ;)
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This is all good advice, and I will definitely be addressing riding in the wet in the near future, as I have aspirations of some long moto-camping adventures!
They say there are two kinds of riders: those who have put the bike down, and those who WILL put the bike down. I had my first down last summer on the Janus. I was riding on some back roads in Indiana paved using a material called "mercatum" (sp???). It is a hard pack limestone material that usually hardens to the consistency of concrete. As I was coasting to a 4-way stop and just started to lean to position for the right hand turn, the back tire hit some loose material and I was on the ground before I knew what happened. Despite wearing armored gloves, I sustained a minor abrasion on the palm of my right hand, but was otherwise uninjured. It did take some effort to get the bike off of my right leg, and I'm glad it wasn't on the other side, or the high scrambler exhaust probably would have burned me.
I approach uncertain surfaces with great care and trepidation now, as I do NOT want to put either of my REs down. The thought of being pinned under a 450# machine on a back road with sparse opportunity for assistance is not something I relish. I aspire to take some additional riding classes which will undoubtedly help me overcome my hesitation.
One of my mentors always said "there's them that's fallen, and them's that are gonna." I've never met anyone that's ridden more than once that hasn't bailed at some time. It's a fact of life. Like they say dress for the crash, not the ride. 8)
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Would love to see pictures posted of projects, additions, deletions, etc. from your RE 650s!
Or even just cleaning, tweaking, you name it. What did you do to your bike today?
Finished the 6,000 mile tune up. Plugs, oil, filter, chain, and Freaking Valve Settings. Man do I dislike doing the valves. Maybe I ought to do them every 1,000 miles so I can remember best way to get the valve cover off and back on. So I remember not to follow the repair manual direction to rotate engine clockwise but to turn it counter (anti) clockwise. Remember which hoses, plugs, wires, nuts, and bolts actually have to be disconnected, unplugged, and removed, loosened, or left in place. What needs to be tilted up and out of the way and how much to tilt it up so it is actually out of the way. How much gasket goop needs to be put where.
Christ Almighty. I need smaller hands or something. And 0.08 feeler gauge? Jiminy Christmas I have to initiate some serious calisthenics to get my brain and hand sufficiently focused to have any kind of reasonable notion of what resistance to something that is 0.08 mm thick feels like. And there is so little room to maneuver the feeler gauge for the inside intake valve rockers.
Maybe I need to get one of my granddaughters over here and get them excited about motorcycle wrenching. Or maybe I need to get wifi in my garage so I can watch videos that will remind me of all the tricks that make adjusting valves easy. Since that is what I did this time. Only I had to get cleaned up and shower the sweat off me so I could sit down indoors in the air conditioning. My garage faces east so it's either sun blasting in through the door or a room that has had everything inside it baking in the heat all morning.
Maybe I could clean the garage and organize it so that there's a work space for a laptop. A maybe I could print out the shop manual and put it in a binder with tab sheets so I can find relevant information and write notes in the margins or add my own photos and keep the master list of torque values (YAY) right where I can easily find it.
Anyhow, that's done. Time to go for a ride and enjoy the 16T front sprocket.
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Finished the 6,000 mile tune up. Plugs, oil, filter, chain, and Freaking Valve Settings. Man do I dislike doing the valves. Maybe I ought to do them every 1,000 miles so I can remember best way to get the valve cover off and back on. So I remember not to follow the repair manual direction to rotate engine clockwise but to turn it counter (anti) clockwise. Remember which hoses, plugs, wires, nuts, and bolts actually have to be disconnected, unplugged, and removed, loosened, or left in place. What needs to be tilted up and out of the way and how much to tilt it up so it is actually out of the way. How much gasket goop needs to be put where.
Christ Almighty. I need smaller hands or something. And 0.08 feeler gauge? Jiminy Christmas I have to initiate some serious calisthenics to get my brain and hand sufficiently focused to have any kind of reasonable notion of what resistance to something that is 0.08 mm thick feels like. And there is so little room to maneuver the feeler gauge for the inside intake valve rockers.
Maybe I need to get one of my granddaughters over here and get them excited about motorcycle wrenching. Or maybe I need to get wifi in my garage so I can watch videos that will remind me of all the tricks that make adjusting valves easy. Since that is what I did this time. Only I had to get cleaned up and shower the sweat off me so I could sit down indoors in the air conditioning. My garage faces east so it's either sun blasting in through the door or a room that has had everything inside it baking in the heat all morning.
Maybe I could clean the garage and organize it so that there's a work space for a laptop. A maybe I could print out the shop manual and put it in a binder with tab sheets so I can find relevant information and write notes in the margins or add my own photos and keep the master list of torque values (YAY) right where I can easily find it.
Anyhow, that's done. Time to go for a ride and enjoy the 16T front sprocket.
Nice work - you've been riding a lot more than me. I haven't hit 2000 miles yet! :)
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Nice work - you've been riding a lot more than me. I haven't hit 2000 miles yet! :)
How far off were the valves?
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Wow. I mean, I struggled with the valve cover gasket too, but otherwise the time I spent doing the first service was very pleasant. Everything came apart and went together just as it should, and compared to my Ducati the valve adjustment was a doddle. Fun, even.
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Last night, I installed the Hitchcocks Handlebar Mirror Blanking Plugs (https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/mirrors/11661) into the OEM mirror mounts on the Silver Specter.
How do you live with those disparate shiny mirror plugs? ;D
I installed those Grip Puppies last weekend, but they are coming off again - they are nice and soft but they make the grip way to big. Like steering with a couple of pick handles.
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How do you live with those disparate shiny mirror plugs? ;D
LOL, right?! The polished stainless matches the handle bars pretty well. The black plastic plugs were a little more stealth, these are a little more bling. I may change my mind and switch back, we'll see!
I installed those Grip Puppies last weekend, but they are coming off again - they are nice and soft but they make the grip way to big. Like steering with a couple of pick handles.
I find the OEM grips to be way too spindly. I get hand cramps within 5 minutes. I find the grip puppies to be very comfortable, especially for long trips as the don't require me to grip as hard and they dampen a LOT of vibration. I don't have particularly large hands (most of my motorcycle gloves are L or XL), but I prefer the chunkier grips. Same thing with my pistols...I almost always swap grip panels with swells or fatter back strap if it's an option.
I'm going to try wrapping the CGT grips with leather and see how I like that compared to the grip puppies.
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i wrapped mine in bicycle bar tape , made a difference !
Apart from that , its been cold and wet here so motivation to go outside is limited .
I haven't ridden my pushbike fro about 5 weeks , so that will hurt when i start again !
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i wrapped mine in bicycle bar tape , made a difference !
so funny you mentioned that, i was just thinking about that tonight, and also contemplating wrapping the exposed portions of the upper forks. what product did you use? can you post a photo?
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Vague , but could take a better one
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Better pics - just had to go to the shed
Also shows how close the interceptor tanks is on right side on GT
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Added some "lightness" to the CGT...if not physically, then aesthetically.
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Got rid of the side reflectors and replaced them with these
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Got rid of the side reflectors and replaced them with these
Oooh, I like that. Is it that reflective vinyl? I've got the black stuff on my helmet. Very difficult to see until you shine light on it then it lights up bright white. Witchcraft.
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Oooh, I like that. Is it that reflective vinyl? I've got the black stuff on my helmet. Very difficult to see until you shine light on it then it lights up bright white. Witchcraft.
Yes, a guy in Australia makes them and I took a shine to them (I'm so sorry :) )
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Well, I've pretty much read all of this. Chains, strings, jugs, going in circles and not just wheels. Oh and gin. Been fun, but as it is a long long thread I have polished off more than a couple of beers....Happy Days! Off I bumble...
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Yes, a guy in Australia makes them and I took a shine to them (I'm so sorry :) )
I need to do this. I took the reflectors off because they're ugly AF, but putting something else on seems like a good idea, even if it's hidden most of the time. Thanks!
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I need to do this. I took the reflectors off because they're ugly AF, but putting something else on seems like a good idea, even if it's hidden most of the time. Thanks!
+1 !!!!!!
Is there a linkie linkie please???
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+1 !!!!!!
Is there a linkie linkie please???
https://sewardstreetstudios.com/
This is the company I use. They're on Etsy too. They'll do any design as long as it's not copyrighted so you might have a hard time getting them to do the RE logo. For some reason, at least last I checked, not a lot of companies are using that crazy reflective vinyl yet.
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This is the guy I used. He has some nice parts.
https://conceptmachineworks.com/product-category/royal-enfield-650-parts/
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This is the guy I used. He has some nice parts.
https://conceptmachineworks.com/product-category/royal-enfield-650-parts/
Awesome, thanks so much for sharing the link, I'll be buying some of those chain tensioner covers too!
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Tarted up my cheap Ranger helmet, and installed Trip Machine leather grip wraps on the Janus. If they work out on the Janus, I will likely try them on the Continental GT.
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Gave it its first wash.
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Rode it !
Went into the forest , yes you can ride on dirt roads , i went to look at where I usually ride my mtb - it was extensively damaged in storms and may not be open for trail riding for 12 months or more :'(
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Rode it !
Went into the forest , yes you can ride on dirt roads , i went to look at where I usually ride my mtb - it was extensively damaged in storms and may not be open for trail riding for 12 months or more :'(
Really? Get a grubber and spade on them and you’ll have them up again in no time...
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One of my mentors always said "there's them that's fallen, and them's that are gonna." I've never met anyone that's ridden more than once that hasn't bailed at some time. It's a fact of life. Like they say dress for the crash, not the ride. 8)
Yep. I was forced by circumstance to ride my bikes as commuters for about 5 years so I learned to live with the water. Actually I came to enjoy riding in the wet when I overcame my slip-phobia.
When you’re used to a bike squirrelling about it becomes 2nd nature to accommodate it. I’m not confident enough now to do that anymore…😩
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I need to do this. I took the reflectors off because they're ugly AF, but putting something else on seems like a good idea, even if it's hidden most of the time. Thanks!
I stuck mine on the back of the rear shock piggybacks, to fulfill a rear reflector requirement.
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i installed these kemimoto bar end mirrors cause i saw some people mention them on this forum
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993240503.html
(https://i.imgur.com/xLeMr5R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QjT7Vmp.jpg)
ehh. i love the SIZE of the mirrors as they're bigger than your typical 3.5" mirror. but they definitely vibrate past 50-60km/h and its annoying. you can touch the mirrors while riding and they're definitely shaking.
i dont know if its the bike or the mirrors. so i'm gonna swap my bar end rizomas back on the RE650 and see if i had any vibration issues (i dont recall noticing any at all with the rizomas).
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i installed these kemimoto bar end mirrors cause i saw some people mention them on this forum
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993240503.html
(https://i.imgur.com/xLeMr5R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QjT7Vmp.jpg)
ehh. i love the SIZE of the mirrors as they're bigger than your typical 3.5" mirror. but they definitely vibrate past 50-60km/h and its annoying. you can touch the mirrors while riding and they're definitely shaking.
i dont know if its the bike or the mirrors. so i'm gonna swap my bar end rizomas back on the RE650 and see if i had any vibration issues (i dont recall noticing any at all with the rizomas).
I looked at those but decided to go with these cheapos instead (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NT6FDD8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) because the mount is rubber. It could go either way. They're not a forever part. If I decide I like the bar ends then eventually I'll get a better set, if not I only wasted $20 and I'll go back to my DoubleTake mirrors.
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i installed these kemimoto bar end mirrors cause i saw some people mention them on this forum
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993240503.html
ehh. i love the SIZE of the mirrors as they're bigger than your typical 3.5" mirror. but they definitely vibrate past 50-60km/h and its annoying. you can touch the mirrors while riding and they're definitely shaking.
i dont know if its the bike or the mirrors. so i'm gonna swap my bar end rizomas back on the RE650 and see if i had any vibration issues (i dont recall noticing any at all with the rizomas).
I have a pair of those mirrors. At first I had some trouble getting them to stay tight inside the bars. No mater how hard I cranked they would eventually become loose. Sometimes after a day or two. In the end I switched out the inner "cone" wedge for a two piece split wedge type that I had around. After that they stayed tight. I really like the extra size over all the smaller ones I've had over the years. I like the flat lens they can use. Because of the extra size no need for those convex lenses.
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I have a pair of those mirrors. At first I had some trouble getting them to stay tight inside the bars. No mater how hard I cranked they would eventually become loose. Sometimes after a day or two. In the end I switched out the inner "cone" wedge for a two piece split wedge type that I had around. After that they stayed tight. I really like the extra size over all the smaller ones I've had over the years. I like the flat lens they can use. Because of the extra size no need for those convex lenses.
do you have an interceptor? on the gt650, the mirrors mount directly onto the bars and even has its own black plastic spacers behind the bar end cap. the spacers were weirdly very slightly too big though and i had to sand them down a bit.
but yah i definitely like the size of them. i might try to find a better quality mirror if thats the reason for vibration.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Haa18d0d6db2a49ca8f8bc0e0cf09dc98S.jpg)
the joint between the mirror and arm is like this for me. every other type of cheap'ish mirror i got seems to have more of a brushed refined finish to it. i wonder if mine has some cheaper assembled parts or something. you never know with aliexpress!
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do you have an interceptor? on the gt650, the mirrors mount directly onto the bars and even has its own black plastic spacers behind the bar end cap. the spacers were weirdly very slightly too big though and i had to sand them down a bit.
but yah i definitely like the size of them. i might try to find a better quality mirror if thats the reason for vibration.
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Haa18d0d6db2a49ca8f8bc0e0cf09dc98S.jpg)
the joint between the mirror and arm is like this for me. every other type of cheap'ish mirror i got seems to have more of a brushed refined finish to it. i wonder if mine has some cheaper assembled parts or something. you never know with aliexpress!
I just walked out and looked at mine. The only difference I notice is not so much in the mirror itself but I have my pivot stem cranked against the back of the mirror. That is to say, I rotate the mirror head for left & right. Then I adjust the up & down with the split clamp at the handle bar end of the mirror. Hard to explain but that is how I've done it for ever. I have low vibration on the cheapy ones and zero vibration at any speed on these.
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hmm confirmed for me. i put on one of my rizoma reverse retro mirrors. in neutral and around 3k rpm, the big aliexpress mirror starts vibrating. no vibration from the rizoma. so thats a good thing (would rather it be a cheap mirror thing than the bike lol).
time to keep hunting for big bar ends! at least these didnt cost me much.
i might sell my rizoma set and get one of those fancy all mirror motogadget cafe bar end mirrors.
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God I hate bar end mirrors, makes the bike look like it's got Mickey mouse ears and adds to the overall width.
I much prefer quality, elegant std mount mirrors like the Rizomas on my Guzzi. High quality, Classy, elegant and work perfectly. Overpriced admittedly.
Ciao
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I think it depends. Higher mirrors look better when there is a fairing like your guzzi to give some height balance. Otherwise I prefer the lower profile of bar ends but don’t like the stock out ones that much. I do like the ones I’ve chosen and think they look much better than stock.
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I love the chrome tank, but my personal tastes think too much chrome overwhelms a bike. That is why I swapped out the chrome headlight bucket and bezel for a black/bronze unit and bronze headlight brackets (both from Amazon). Unfortunately, when they arrived, the tone was clearly more copper than bronze. I don't think I'm in love with the look, so at least the brackets are likely to be replaced with black.
In regards to earlier posts, I happen to love the look of bar-end mirrors.
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I can't believe I forgot to mention the other change this weekend; I installed the YSS fork kit. I guess it skipped my mind because nothing shows except the pre-load caps. I only put about 30 miles of "around town" riding on the bike yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to test the performance aspects of the kit, but normal riding is completely unexceptional...which is good.
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I can't believe I forgot to mention the other change this weekend; I installed the YSS fork kit. I guess it skipped my mind because nothing shows except the pre-load caps. I only put about 30 miles of "around town" riding on the bike yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to test the performance aspects of the kit, but normal riding is completely unexceptional...which is good.
How'd that process go? I've got upgrades planned in stages, and one of those is fork upgrade, headlight bracket and fork gaiters. Interested to know what I'd be getting in to.
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I can't believe I forgot to mention the other change this weekend; I installed the YSS fork kit. I guess it skipped my mind because nothing shows except the pre-load caps. I only put about 30 miles of "around town" riding on the bike yesterday, so I haven't had a chance to test the performance aspects of the kit, but normal riding is completely unexceptional...which is good.
That’s the perfect backdrop for a photo of a vintage motorcycle.
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I love the chrome tank, but my personal tastes think too much chrome overwhelms a bike. That is why I swapped out the chrome headlight bucket and bezel for a black/bronze unit and bronze headlight brackets (both from Amazon). Unfortunately, when they arrived, the tone was clearly more copper than bronze. I don't think I'm in love with the look, so at least the brackets are likely to be replaced with black.
In regards to earlier posts, I happen to love the look of bar-end mirrors.
nice. i think i would have replaced the brackets with black ones. might help soften the bronze ring. i'm in the midst of switching my seat to brown too, which i think compliments the chrome tank perfectly!
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I just walked out and looked at mine. The only difference I notice is not so much in the mirror itself but I have my pivot stem cranked against the back of the mirror. That is to say, I rotate the mirror head for left & right. Then I adjust the up & down with the split clamp at the handle bar end of the mirror. Hard to explain but that is how I've done it for ever. I have low vibration on the cheapy ones and zero vibration at any speed on these.
interesting. just curious do you find its relatively easy to pivot your mirrors on the pivot stem? i just tried mine and they feel much looser than previous other cheaper mirrors i've had. i can move them with very little resistance.
i might try to order another set just in case i ended up with a weird busted pair (story of my life haha).
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interesting. just curious do you find its relatively easy to pivot your mirrors on the pivot stem? i just tried mine and they feel much looser than previous other cheaper mirrors i've had. i can move them with very little resistance.
i might try to order another set just in case i ended up with a weird busted pair (story of my life haha).
Just got back from a ride and your earlier post made me pay attention to my mirrors. No vibration. And no, the pivot ball is not at all easy. In fact it is tight enough to be a bit notchy to adjust.
If you are going to buy more anyways ... maybe you could "introduce" some tightness into that joint.
Not sure what the best way would be. Never done it.
Something that starts out as liquid to fill the cavity and assume the round shape but won't stick to at least one of the two parts. Maybe electrical solder?
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Just got back from a ride and your earlier post made me pay attention to my mirrors. No vibration. And no, the pivot ball is not at all easy. In fact it is tight enough to be a bit notchy to adjust.
If you are going to buy more anyways ... maybe you could "introduce" some tightness into that joint.
Not sure what the best way would be. Never done it.
Something that starts out as liquid to fill the cavity and assume the round shape but won't stick to at least one of the two parts. Maybe electrical solder?
ok good to know!!! i do like the size and look of these mirrors so maybe theres a way to salvage mine.
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installed the hitchcock usb charger on my gt650.
very clean setup but fits a bit odd on the gt650 due to the lack of free space near the fork. i opted to install it on the left fork (the side i mount my phone) and found all the cables basically in the way. so i just routed the usb cable in front of the ugly headlight bracket (will be replacing those with black ones eventually so it'll blend in more).
(https://i.imgur.com/075DzVJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/INkj5ql.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WBGY2MG.jpg)
one thing i noticed is the wrap around the connectors on the bottom of the usb charger seem a bit exposed.
(https://i.imgur.com/QYydvPS.jpg)
not sure if it matters but i just used some magic wrap around that area to seal it up a bit more.
i'm horrible with directions so gps helps me get out of the city more often. i like that it plugs into the accessory plug in the headlight so no battery drainage when bike isnt in use. although i have a cheap usb charger on my ducati thats directly connected to the battery and has been for years with no issues.
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I think it depends. Higher mirrors look better when there is a fairing like your guzzi to give some height balance. Otherwise I prefer the lower profile of bar ends but don’t like the stock out ones that much. I do like the ones I’ve chosen and think they look much better than stock.
The RE barends are a quality unit. They’re slightly off centre on the pivot so I swapped my mirrors l/r- r/l to reduce the width a little.
I’m very happy with them, rock solid and no vibration blurring.
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Replaced the original mufflers with GPR Deeptones.
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Installed the Tec 40mm footpeg relocators, I already had the Hitchcock adjuster plate, so now the footpegs are well forward. Happy days for the knee replacements.
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Didn't do anything to my bike, but did something to the mufflers I took off. I nailed them to the wall as decorations in my office.
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Didn't do anything to my bike, but did something to the mufflers I took off. I nailed them to the wall as decorations in my office.
I hope the mounts are in a wall stud, or at least drywall anchors. Those suckers are heavy!
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I replaced the Hitchcock polished headers with a pair of TEC brushed headers. They were much easier to install because the collars were not welded in place that allowed maneuverability. My Hichcock headers along with my Scorpion Red Power mufflers are for sale.
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I replaced the Hitchcock polished headers with a pair of TEC brushed headers. They were much easier to install because the collars were not welded in place that allowed maneuverability. My Hichcock headers along with my Scorpion Red Power mufflers are for sale.
PM'd you
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Givi all around. Pannier racks, luggage rack, e22n cases. Looks pretty nice, actually.
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I hope the mounts are in a wall stud, or at least drywall anchors. Those suckers are heavy!
You sound like my wife (she's a nice woman, i love her a lot): "Don't do this. The walls will come down!" Well, they are heavy, yes, but not THAT heavy. You also have your entire beer collection on a shelf on the wall, don't you? ;-)
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Givi all around. Pannier racks, luggage rack, e22n cases. Looks pretty nice, actually.
[/quote any chance of a couple of pictures please
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Givi all around. Pannier racks, luggage rack, e22n cases. Looks pretty nice, actually.
any chance of a couple of pictures please
I've been being lazy but I'm going to do a photo shoot eventually highlighting all the stuff I've done. Look for it in the next few days.
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I picked my Interceptor up from the dealer. I had an engine light on last Tuesday. They serviced that under warranty no questions asked. I also had them perform the full one year, 6,000 mile service (I'm at 5k and one year, but figured I already have to leave the bike with them). I was originally planning to do the 6,000 mile valve adjustment myself after the first one was so easy, but I figured I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm learning what I'm doing as I'm going and a set of trained eyes looking over all the rubbers, brakes, etc. after a year and a New York winter seemed like a decent idea if the bike was going in anyway.
Everything was a-ok except for loose spark plugs. I'll start popping the caps and finger checking them every thousand miles or so going forward. I feel for you all that have a tough time with your dealers. Gotham Motorcycles has been easy to work with every step of the way for me. Ready to put some more miles on it before the season's over.
I rode out upstate this weekend on my partner's T120 and as much as I love the glut of power coming from that massive twin, I missed my Interceptor for its weight and handling. It dips into corners and moves about much easier than the T120 and the more perched on top standard motorcycle riding position is more fun for me than the set into the bike more cruiser feeling I get from the Triumph. The triumph doesn't handle poorly, but it feels every bit fatter (+100lbs) it is than the 650.
Anyway, hope the number one thing we're all doing is enjoying our rides. I know I am.
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I picked my Interceptor up from the dealer. I had an engine light on last Tuesday. They serviced that under warranty no questions asked. I also had them perform the full one year, 6,000 mile service (I'm at 5k and one year, but figured I already have to leave the bike with them). I was originally planning to do the 6,000 mile valve adjustment myself after the first one was so easy, but I figured I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm learning what I'm doing as I'm going and a set of trained eyes looking over all the rubbers, brakes, etc. after a year and a New York winter seemed like a decent idea if the bike was going in anyway.
Everything was a-ok except for loose spark plugs. I'll start popping the caps and finger checking them every thousand miles or so going forward. I feel for you all that have a tough time with your dealers. Gotham Motorcycles has been easy to work with every step of the way for me. Ready to put some more miles on it before the season's over.
I rode out upstate this weekend on my partner's T120 and as much as I love the glut of power coming from that massive twin, I missed my Interceptor for its weight and handling. It dips into corners and moves about much easier than the T120 and the more perched on top standard motorcycle riding position is more fun for me than the set into the bike more cruiser feeling I get from the Triumph. The triumph doesn't handle poorly, but it feels every bit fatter (+100lbs) it is than the 650.
Anyway, hope the number one thing we're all doing is enjoying our rides. I know I am.
As a point of interest I pulled the plugs on both of my Royal Enfields today, an Interceptor and a Himalayan. I installed the plugs on both of them and noticed at the time that the OEM's felt a little loose. When removed them today all three plugs took less effort to remove than I expected.
I think I'll start checking the plugs every 1,000 or so miles, at least until I'm satisfied they're staying tight.
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Yeah, I don't recall them being loose when I did the first service, but I definitely used all the wisdom from here and old Stu for tightening them back down. Clearly that wasn't sufficient to keep them down. Not a big deal to perform a periodic check for a bit to make sure they're staying seated.
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Hi JL. Agree about the plugs. On my bike, finger tight then its lucky to be an 8th of a turn to get quite tight. I feel its not "bedding" in like a normal bolt, thus they get loose over time but I'm not going to push it for the recommended 1/4 turn. It'll end in tears I can just feel it! So I check mine every now and then
So in lock down I greased the front axle and the speedo drive pulled the relays and cleaned them a bit and made sure the wires at the back of the relay blocks were in tight, because I'm bored! didn't need it but it was nice to tinker in the shed a bit! Hasn't been out for 6 weeks and it will be another 4 before I can ride. :-\
Toying with the idea of getting the forks polished, and painting the tops black, like a '68 Interceptor.
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installed the RE shorty flyscreen. took much longer than i thought lol. didnt realize i had to basically disassemble the headlamp and indicators just to install it.
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I'm about to go through the same process to remove mine, iblastoff. After riding the Triumph for a couple hundred miles this weekend, I'm convinced that the turbulence the fly screen is saving my stomach from is increasing the turbulence on my shoulders and helmet.
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Flyscreens are there to look cool not to shield the rider. But just think how they keep the bugs off the bottom of the clocks 8)
I have the shortest Dart flyscreen just 'cause I think it looks neat. At least it doesn't make turbulence worse.
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Flyscreens are there to look cool not to shield the rider. But just think how they keep the bugs off the bottom of the clocks 8)
I have the shortest Dart flyscreen just 'cause I think it looks neat. At least it doesn't make turbulence worse.
Yep a short flyscreen is only there to protect the clocks. I have the short RE one and it seems fine.
Ciao
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Yeah, I definitely installed it for the looks. The unintended consequence was increased wind turbulence on the helmet and shoulders. That's worse than just having an even spread across the torso for me. End is result was a net not worth it after riding the T120 without any screen. It may be down to sitting deeper into the Bonnie than on the Interceptor, but only one way to find out. I'm sure you'll all be waiting with bated breath for the results. Haha.
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I stood briefly, looking longingly at her, wanting to ride......but I had too much other shit to do. Woe is me.
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Washed, Decontaminated, Sealed, WAX, Ceramic :) SO SO FRESH!!
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I picked my Interceptor up from the dealer. I had an engine light on last Tuesday. They serviced that under warranty no questions asked. I also had them perform the full one year, 6,000 mile service (I'm at 5k and one year, but figured I already have to leave the bike with them). I was originally planning to do the 6,000 mile valve adjustment myself after the first one was so easy, but I figured I really don't know what I'm doing. I'm learning what I'm doing as I'm going and a set of trained eyes looking over all the rubbers, brakes, etc. after a year and a New York winter seemed like a decent idea if the bike was going in anyway.
Everything was a-ok except for loose spark plugs. I'll start popping the caps and finger checking them every thousand miles or so going forward. I feel for you all that have a tough time with your dealers. Gotham Motorcycles has been easy to work with every step of the way for me. Ready to put some more miles on it before the season's over.
I rode out upstate this weekend on my partner's T120 and as much as I love the glut of power coming from that massive twin, I missed my Interceptor for its weight and handling. It dips into corners and moves about much easier than the T120 and the more perched on top standard motorcycle riding position is more fun for me than the set into the bike more cruiser feeling I get from the Triumph. The triumph doesn't handle poorly, but it feels every bit fatter (+100lbs) it is than the 650.
Anyway, hope the number one thing we're all doing is enjoying our rides. I know I am.
Hey JL. Any idea what set off the MIL? I had a defective oxygen sensor but bought one (from Gotham) rather than drop off the bike and wait for the mechanic to get around to it. (Going back and forth from the dealership is a pain via mass transit, as you know.) I have a 2021 with the original Brembo calipers but haven't received any word from Gotham or RE about replacing them. As for the quality of their service, I've done so many changes to my Interceptor I'm not sure they want to go near it, though when I went to pick up the O2 sensor Joe came out and was enthusiastic about the modifications, and full of suggestions. He went on for quite awhile in fact, which was gratifying. The Indians and Harleys in that place dwarf the Enfields.
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Last night I replaced the OEM Bosch plugs and chintzy plug ends with NGK plugs and ends on both bikes.
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My leather side cover bags arrived, so that is new. Spare clutch cable, brake cable, and throttle lock on the left. RE ball cap, sunglasses, and reading glasses on the right. Brake and shift levers are machined aluminum from TEC. I got them (used) at a very fair price off Ebay. The slight scuffs suggest that one of our brothers went down. Makes me sad to think of potential injury and that a 650 had to be parted out. But I'm glad I can still utilize a quality part, rather than see it go to waste.
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Hey JL. Any idea what set off the MIL? I had a defective oxygen sensor but bought one (from Gotham) rather than drop off the bike and wait for the mechanic to get around to it.
You know, I didn't ask when I picked it up. I figured I'd just look at the paperwork when I got home, but then found that the paperwork is only for the one year service. I'm planning on calling to ask just so I know. I'll update when I have an answer, but with the turnaround time I don't think it required anything to be ordered. Of course, it could have been a part they happened to have on-hand.
And yeah, Joe is enthusiastic about the 650s. I know he was riding one with S&S mufflers for a while and loving it. I can still remember the glee in his giggle when I showed him the other S&S performance parts available for the bikes. If they're capable mechanics with the modern Indian engines and classic Harley air-cooled, they'll have no issues finding their way around these 650s.
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First service yesterday, all valves were tight, and had to be adjusted, according to the workshop.
Continental GT Touring seat fitted, Zard Slip-Ons without Euro IV approval, racing versions.
Recall calipers fitted.
More and more, it's transforming into the bike I wanted...
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Got the TEC big bore pipes and silencers back from Jet Hot today, reinstalled them on the Interceptor. Couldn't take 'er for a ride because I'm waiting for electrical connectors to finish the tail tidy, and didn't feel like putting the old setup back on.
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Hey JL. Any idea what set off the MIL?
I called today and they said tightening the plugs down eliminated the engine light. Hasn't been on since I got the bike back.
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Washed it and then gazed at it longingly.
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Tried to install preload adjusters but on one of them the threads were cut too small >:(
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Installed the Concept Machine Works Chain Tensioner Caps on the Interceptor. You can also see the Enfield Precision Chain Guard that I installed last week.
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Installed Legend Gear magnetic tank bag LT1 - Black Edition
Handlebar relocator set from Hitchcock
Stainless mirror extension from Hitchcock
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Tried to install preload adjusters but on one of them the threads were cut too small >:(
Brand? Just so others avoid this situation.
Ciao
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Brand? Just so others avoid this situation.
I'm waiting on the response from the vendor before posting brand where I bought it from. If they make it right then all is good. It was frustrating to encounter it during install though.
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"JPS" billet black/brass indicators and Eldorado tail light (LED), then rode it. (parts from Motone Customs UK)
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"JPS" billet black/brass indicators and Eldorado tail light (LED), then rode it. (parts from Motone Customs UK)
Have you got the same indicators on the front? If so could you share a pic? Thanks!
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Sure do....
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Sure do....
They look great! Did you have any trouble fitting them to the original headlight bracket?
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"JPS" billet black/brass indicators and Eldorado tail light (LED), then rode it. (parts from Motone Customs UK)
I'm currently musing over fitting better quality smaller indicators and tail light assembly and thinking about size and finish
(black/chrome/brass etc) It occurs to me that as a general principle an indicator should be a discrete thing and not really an object of attention in an aesthetic sense. It needs to obviously produce a bright light but not draw too much attention, although having said that those tiny little LED units don't appeal either as they look like you're trying too hard to eliminate them and in the process ignore any type of style. I guess that's why I'm finding it difficult to find something I like. These are a bit too "look at me" for my tastes although I don't mind the general shape.
Interesting to see a round tail light assy fitted so I can get an idea of how that looks. better than I thought it wood actually where it mates to the original holder. I think the tail light would look better if you painted the back face of the holder black to match the tail light housing and disguise the mismatch of the round light housing and the differently shaped rear face of the holder. Or maybe paint the whole standard holder black.
Ciao
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They look great! Did you have any trouble fitting them to the original headlight bracket?
Thanks, yeah I love the look of them too, they clean up the bike nicely and the brass picks up the gold trim on the tank, they were made for it. As far as fitting - pretty much bolt on. I thought I was going to have trouble with the front left being too short because of the screen mount and there's also a spring wire cable stand-off on the inside but I still managed to get the spring washer and nut on and nipped up.... (just). They come with bullet connectors so I chopped of the bike stock connectors and fitted bullet females front and back.
On the rear I used some large (painted) mudguard washers to cover the larger holes from the stock indicators. Intending for it to be temporary but I think it looks ok so will leave them as is. Had to file out some clearance holes on the stock tail light bracket to get the motone one to fit properly (up flush). Fairly easy job if you've done a bit of spanner (or wrench, depending on where you are :-) ) work.
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These are a bit too "look at me" for my tastes although I don't mind the general shape.
Interesting to see a round tail light assy fitted so I can get an idea of how that looks. better than I thought it wood actually where it mates to the original holder. I think the tail light would look better if you painted the back face of the holder black to match the tail light housing and disguise the mismatch of the round light housing and the differently shaped rear face of the holder. Or maybe paint the whole standard holder black.
Ciao
Yeah each to his own, I umm and arred for ages over the brass but am so glad I went for them in the end, I think they really complement the black/gold trim of the MR Clean, not sure how they would go on a different coloured bike. Don't worry I have thought about painting various parts as you mentioned but I want to do it slowly, not all at once. I was thinking both mudguards and that rear tail light holder thing. I'll just think about it for a few months, can't rush these things ;)
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Yeah each to his own, I umm and arred for ages over the brass but am so glad I went for them in the end, I think they really complement the black/gold trim of the MR Clean, not sure how they would go on a different coloured bike. Don't worry I have thought about painting various parts as you mentioned but I want to do it slowly, not all at once. I was thinking both mudguards and that rear tail light holder thing. I'll just think about it for a few months, can't rush these things ;)
Yes, I muse over stuff like this for a while and when I've come to a decision someone releases a new item and I need to muse some more. LOL
Ciao
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Thanks, yeah I love the look of them too, they clean up the bike nicely and the brass picks up the gold trim on the tank, they were made for it. As far as fitting - pretty much bolt on. I thought I was going to have trouble with the front left being too short because of the screen mount and there's also a spring wire cable stand-off on the inside but I still managed to get the spring washer and nut on and nipped up.... (just). They come with bullet connectors so I chopped of the bike stock connectors and fitted bullet females front and back.
On the rear I used some large (painted) mudguard washers to cover the larger holes from the stock indicators. Intending for it to be temporary but I think it looks ok so will leave them as is. Had to file out some clearance holes on the stock tail light bracket to get the motone one to fit properly (up flush). Fairly easy job if you've done a bit of spanner (or wrench, depending on where you are :-) ) work.
Thanks for all the detail, that's a great help. I think I'm going to order basically the same motone indicators but in black for my Ravishing Red interceptor. I wasn't sure how the front would work, I also have the screen mount, so you've helped clear that up for me. Also still deciding on rear fitment, might get a tail tidy or go with your approach. As for spanner vs wrench work, it's spanner for me too, I'm just across the Tasman in Melbourne.
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Sure do....
The west coast sandfly never has an off season eh?
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I’m toying with the idea of doing my front and rear guards on the Black Magic GT in black gloss. I’ll do my usual’Ages Of Musing’ thing before I make the jump tho’. I also found a 20 mm front guard spacer kit on EBay which saves me fabricating some, as I’ve intended to do that for some time also.
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I did the Outex conversation a few days ago. We'll see how it works out. I note that the part of cleaning the rim and smoothing out the air bubbles is important. I didn't grind anything down, nor would I.
Outex is more expensive than the 3M 4412N tape, but the marine tape is thinner. and doesn't have the protective coat the outex kit has. I've noted that several people are claiming silicone ( or shoe goo ) on the nipples works, but most silicone isn't heat rated for the application it's being used for. I saw it mentioned that 2021 comes with CEAT tube type tyre's that aren't tubeless, so that may mean new tubeless tires, no idea about the rims. I have a 2019 with stock tubeless Pirelli's.
Once I noticed I had the valve washer installed incorrectly I removed the tire and I noticed the few remaining bubbles were gone from the "overpressure stage" after install. I would note that Outex also sells a sealer for slow leaks, which is similar to Tireject. Thank god I have a no-mar classic changer.
I'd prefer alloys although they'd be heavier. Sealing spoked rims is far lighter. Really wish RE would get off their ass and make alloys. I can't understand why the less expensive Meteor has alloys, hazard lights, tripper nav and the Int/Conti doesn't yet.
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I did the Outex conversation a few days ago. ...
Thanks very much for the report. Well done and helpful.
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I took the fly screen off, removed the crossbar from the controls and swapped for the front end LED's. I'm digging the look. Gotta do the rear end soon.
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I took the fly screen off, removed the crossbar from the controls and swapped for the front end LED's. I'm digging the look. Gotta do the rear end soon.
Can we get a side shot of those indicators and their details? cost, LED's?, supplier?
Ciao
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Can we get a side shot of those indicators and their details? cost, LED's?, supplier?
Ciao
HI Phil, you can see the profile on the signals from the top shot. I'll try to upload another actually from the profile after work. It's just the Tec Bike Parts kit and I added the LED bulb that's been widely discussed in other threads. I'm pretty happy with it. Still working out if I want to get brackets and run the rears from the frame rather than on the stock bump. I'll probably just do the stock bump and see if the end result drives me to do the extra work. As for the Motones I see, etc., I love those signals, but the end result is the RE's start to look like every Motone'd Bonneville and that's not what I'm after.
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Those are nice signals and they match the bike perfectly. I love the Motogadget pins but they look incongruous mounted to the stock headlight bracket, which is one reason why I went with the Motone. (Motone is synonymous with Triumph and Stuart Fillingham, two reasons to avoid it, though they make gorgeous bling.)
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I took the fly screen off, removed the crossbar from the controls and swapped for the front end LED's. I'm digging the look. Gotta do the rear end soon.
did you have to install relays for the leds?
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did you have to install relays for the leds?
I don't know if I had to, but I did. I replaced the stock relay rather than using the individual in-line relays that come with the kit. It just seemed to make more sense to use one relay as opposed to four.
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I don't know if I had to, but I did. I replaced the stock relay rather than using the individual in-line relays that come with the kit. It just seemed to make more sense to use one relay as opposed to four.
Thanks, I was just wondering about the overall length of the indicator and if it will need spacing out from the rear housing to avail contact with the rear frame rail when it comes to rear fitting. What relay did you use? seems a better idea than the in line resistors.
Ciao
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Ok so what I did today was the second valve lash adjustment. Which begs the question; why does RE implore one to check tappets at 12 month intervals regardless of mileage? My bike has 3600 miles so 3300 since first adjustment. It has been 14 1/2 months. The valve lash has not changed a bit since that initial adjustment. And the valve cover gasket was every bit the PITA as it was the first time.
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Gloss black guards on the black magic GT? My 2cworths... would look really good. Polished stainless would be good as well, the silver 🤔
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Gloss black guards on the black magic GT? My 2cworths... would look really good. Polished stainless would be good as well, the silver 🤔
Yeah, I think it’d give it more of a ‘Vincent’ type of look ( colour wise)
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I installed a 3d printed airbox snorkel delete, has anyone done something similar? Should I see a difference with the stock filter?
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I installed a 3d printed airbox snorkel delete, has anyone done something similar? Should I see a difference with the stock filter?
Yes it'll make more intake noise.
Ciao
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Yes it'll make more intake noise.
Ciao
An irritating one at that! I put the stock cover back on (makes zero performance difference, but sounds way better).
(https://i.ibb.co/QvSQSTs/Bellmouth.jpg)
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Put the Hitchcocks LED tail light on.
The good:
It's a very well made little light with a base designed to frame the stock lump. Sleeved wiring with correct connector, fits straight on without drilling etc. Much smaller than the original light. Has good peripheral visibility unlike most I've seen.
The not so good:
They could have designed the base to compensate for the inclined face of the stock lump, so the light didn't slope upwards. Visually it would be better although the light performs fine they way it is.
(https://i.ibb.co/0BBtr5g/Hitchcocks-tail-light.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/CtdNnqD/HC-tail-light-on.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/8M7q6mb/DSC03421.jpg)
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I decided to do an upgrade to the shift lever today and fit a folding toe piece. I've used these ones before and quite like them. I thought while I had the lever off I'd try and make it look a little less agricultural so went at it on the bench and created a lightening slot. Just wanted to see what could be done with the std levers to upgrade them a bit. This was all done with hand tools so anyone with a bench and pedestal drill could do likewise.
I didn't get too carried away with things and painted it with some paint I had laying around from another project. I'll use 2 slots on the brake lever when I get a chance to do it.
Ciao
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Hoiho,
a couple of photos of your bike please? The paint looks NICE!
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Removed Grip Puppies and put a pair of the ubiquitous diamond grips on (thirdgear.com.au). Nice compromise - little bigger, softer and much grippier (is that a word?) than oem grips, but not so big you feel like you're rowing a boat.
Removed OEM grips with WD40 and compressed air. Put new grips in hot water for 10min and slid them on with IPA and air. (Softer compound, didn't want them slipping after installation). I did find they didn't quite span the two star flanges on the throttle tube, so left the inside one exposed - they have really good hold after the IPA evaporated and don't move at all.
(https://i.ibb.co/n8X16hw/Grips.jpg)
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Hoiho,
a couple of photos of your bike please? The paint looks NICE!
Don't have a current one sorry, but if you look in my profile you'll find a gazzillion or two (I think I exceeded my quota of 'new bike excitement' pics).
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I decided to do an upgrade to the shift lever today and fit a folding toe piece. I've used these ones before and quite like them. I thought while I had the lever off I'd try and make it look a little less agricultural so went at it on the bench and created a lightening slot. Just wanted to see what could be done with the std levers to upgrade them a bit. This was all done with hand tools so anyone with a bench and pedestal drill could do likewise.
I didn't get too carried away with things and painted it with some paint I had laying around from another project. I'll use 2 slots on the brake lever when I get a chance to do it.
Ciao
Both look good! I think I prefer that to the Tec levers I have.
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Both look good! I think I prefer that to the Tec levers I have.
Fair enough, I was trying to see how decent the std ones could be made to look for minimum cost. The Woodcraft toe pegs are like $18 each. I've personally never liked the round hole lightened look. I much prefer the slotted look. It would have been a LOT easier if I'd just drilled holes.
Ciao
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Installed fork preload adjusters.
Had problems with the first set but got a replacement in the mail today at no additional cost to me. Very good service on the exchange from Hitchcock.
Haven't taken it for a ride yet but looking forward to testing them out.
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Put the Hitchcocks LED tail light on.
The good:
It's a very well made little light with a base designed to frame the stock lump. Sleeved wiring with correct connector, fits straight on without drilling etc. Much smaller than the original light. Has good peripheral visibility unlike most I've seen.
The not so good:
They could have designed the base to compensate for the inclined face of the stock lump, so the light didn't slope upwards. Visually it would be better although the light performs fine they way it is.
(https://i.ibb.co/0BBtr5g/Hitchcocks-tail-light.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/CtdNnqD/HC-tail-light-on.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/8M7q6mb/DSC03421.jpg)
that tail light seems to stick out a lot? is there a light for the license plate under there? looks like the bottom of the light is open so some light can spill out on it?
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Not today but just catching up on some video editing. Swapped out grips on the GT
https://youtu.be/D8MDSPILxPY
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that tail light seems to stick out a lot? is there a light for the license plate under there? looks like the bottom of the light is open so some light can spill out on it?
Light itself is 40mm long, and resin base is 25mm. (OEM is 85mm).
It has good license plate illumination.
Overall width is 100mm and height is 30mm.
(https://i.ibb.co/cYG3G2b/Tail-lights.jpg)
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Got the matching Yamaha R1 clutch side grip today and mounted it up to match the quick action R1 throttle. Compressed air between the grip and bar and it slides off. Lockwire each end of the grip and job done. I took 10mm of the end of each bar as well as the grips are slightly shorter. Much nicer grips than std.
Ciao
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Air-injection delete kit.
Explain!
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Explain!
https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/44290
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https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/44290
Got it. Thanks!
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Fork gaiters, blacked out the fork brace/bracket, electrical tape X on the light to see if I like it.
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I'm changing the rear light and indicators and while I had it all apart I thought I'd try and refinish the light housing assy. I just wanted to see what was achievable with basic workshop tools by hand. It's been mentioned that the stuff is diecast rubbish so I wanted to see for myself. I didn't find that. it's just been finished in an economical style. As others have mentioned the paint finish with regards to robustness is quite something. I've paint stripped Commercial jets, cars, motorcycles, 2 pack, powder coat and barnacles off boats but whatever this is is pretty impressive. Anyway I ended up using my grit blaster and in the end my air driven porting tool with a scotchbrite mop. That got the paint off. The rest was just good old fashioned wet and dry using WD40 and finished off with a hand scotchbrite pad with WD again. I like a satin finish over a polished aluminium but it would be polishable to a high finish from here. The images are pretty worthless looking at them now as it makes it look standard still. Oh well it's certainly possible to get the tail light housing, the headlight mounts and fork brace looking quite nice without buying new stuff with a few hours work on each one in the workshop.
Ciao
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I'm changing the rear light and indicators and while I had it all apart I thought I'd try and refinish the light housing assy. I just wanted to see what was achievable with basic workshop tools by hand. It's been mentioned that the stuff is diecast rubbish so I wanted to see for myself. I didn't find that. it's just been finished in an economical style. As others have mentioned the paint finish with regards to robustness is quite something. I've paint stripped Commercial jets, cars, motorcycles, 2 pack, powder coat and barnacles off boats but whatever this is is pretty impressive. Anyway I ended up using my grit blaster and in the end my air driven porting tool with a scotchbrite mop. That got the paint off. The rest was just good old fashioned wet and dry using WD40 and finished off with a hand scotchbrite pad with WD again. I like a satin finish over a polished aluminium but it would be polishable to a high finish from here. The images are pretty worthless looking at them now as it makes it look standard still. Oh well it's certainly possible to get the tail light housing, the headlight mounts and fork brace looking quite nice without buying new stuff with a few hours work on each one in the workshop.
Ciao
Scrubbed up pretty good I reckon. Looks nice as is.
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Scrubbed up pretty good I reckon. Looks nice as is.
Yea it's ok, I'm happy with it. I'll give it a coat of clear to minimise the maintenance.
Ciao
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I stripped the paint of gear and brake foot levers, the paint is very tough! Used a paint stripper wheel with a cordless drill. Polished up nicely, tiny bit of rust on the edges only to maintain. Sumtin' to do...in the shed....with a beer 😉 may have a crack at that rear light assembly as well. Lockdown amusement
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Finally mounted new grips. Cheap rubber ones (https://www.iguanacustom.com/en/grips/5460-rubber-grips-obus-black-22mm-icc.html), but they feel good. Had to cut the originals to get them off....
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Installed the large RE crash bars that I got 2 months ago.
I got the chrome knowing that if later I want black I have a powder coating system.
I got the large ones for more protection plus as a place to mount my driving lights and to form a frame for winter leg shields.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=61326;image)
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Nice. Easier to maintain the cases than with the small bars too
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I stripped the paint of gear and brake foot levers, the paint is very tough! Used a paint stripper wheel with a cordless drill. Polished up nicely, tiny bit of rust on the edges only to maintain. Sumtin' to do...in the shed....with a beer 😉 may have a crack at that rear light assembly as well. Lockdown amusement
I did my gear lever a few weeks ago but I re painted it. Are you leaving yours raw steel? The tail light housing will polish up very nicely if thats the look you're going for.
My Ducati 1198 has a factory finish alloy tank which is quite a corse brushed finish with a clear gloss over it which I quite like. Not a great image to highlight.
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a place to mount my driving lights and to form a frame for winter leg shields.
Those are a couple of really good ideas!
I have the same bars on my Interceptor, only in black.
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Nice. Easier to maintain the cases than with the small bars too
I'm not a huge fan of crash bars for 1 reason. In my previous hobby of buying cosmetically written off bikes from insurance auctions and rebuilding them I saw a LOT of bikes that were statutory write offs (never again able to be registered) due to frame/engine mount damage caused by crash bar mounting points. So a bike that would have had a a scraped muffler and clutch cover, footpeg and levers etc now had broken cases/bent frame at the bar mounts. The larger the bars generally the worse the issue. Plus of course the larger the bars the more likelihood of the bike not just sliding down the road in a simple low side but now it often tends to flip over as well. Just something to consider when choosing crash bars. OEM accessory bars "should" be less risk than aftermarket, some of which were absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over.
Ciao
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I'm not a huge fan of crash bars for 1 reason. In my previous hobby of buying cosmetically written off bikes from insurance auctions and rebuilding them I saw a LOT of bikes that were statutory write offs (never again able to be registered) due to frame/engine mount damage caused by crash bar mounting points. So a bike that would have had a a scraped muffler and clutch cover, footpeg and levers etc now had broken cases/bent frame at the bar mounts. The larger the bars generally the worse the issue. Plus of course the larger the bars the more likelihood of the bike not just sliding down the road in a simple low side but now it often tends to flip over as well. Just something to consider when choosing crash bars. OEM accessory bars "should" be less risk than aftermarket, some of which were absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over.
Ciao
Gee, never thought about that. Kidding.
I understand your point even though I don't share your opinion. Hyperbolies aside, "... absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over." Crash bars are great at defending the bike in a low-side and the common drops that happen. Last year I laid down my DL1000, with crash bars, in that 45-55mph range. I rode it home (400 miles) and it only needed a new barend weight and new buckles on my right boot. More importantly is getting home. The year before I came out of a restaurant to find my K1200rs on its side in the parking lot. It didn't have crash bars. What it did have was a 3-finger hole in the clutch case and oil flooding the gutter. As you know those cases can't be casually welded in a local garage. Vacation over. Truck rented. Sucked.
We should also notice that the guards on the 650 are bolted to the engine, not the frame. So for me, even though I've heard the frame argument for decades, I'd rather ride it home than truck it to the Copart auction house because the cosmetic damage is greater than its' two year old value.
You say potatoes, I say potatoes. (that saying is never as effective when in written form ;) )
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My levers are raw finished. They look OK, the edges and the leading edges of the toe levers have a tiny bit of rust, thats it. Can wipe off easy enuff.
Those engine bars could be a good spot to mount some hi way pegs for kickin back with... I say spuds ;D
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Gee, never thought about that. Kidding.
I understand your point even though I don't share your opinion. Hyperbolies aside, "... absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over." Crash bars are great at defending the bike in a low-side and the common drops that happen. Last year I laid down my DL1000, with crash bars, in that 45-55mph range. I rode it home (400 miles) and it only needed a new barend weight and new buckles on my right boot. More importantly is getting home. The year before I came out of a restaurant to find my K1200rs on its side in the parking lot. It didn't have crash bars. What it did have was a 3-finger hole in the clutch case and oil flooding the gutter. As you know those cases can't be casually welded in a local garage. Vacation over. Truck rented. Sucked.
We should also notice that the guards on the 650 are bolted to the engine, not the frame. So for me, even though I've heard the frame argument for decades, I'd rather ride it home than truck it to the Copart auction house because the cosmetic damage is greater than its' two year old value.
You say potatoes, I say potatoes. (that saying is never as effective when in written form ;) )
You left out an important word in your quote from my post, "some". I'm just putting it out there from crashed bike experience, plenty of people run them. It's more a comment on the fact it's worth looking at the mounting system before you buy.
Ciao
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I'm not a huge fan of crash bars for 1 reason. In my previous hobby of buying cosmetically written off bikes from insurance auctions and rebuilding them I saw a LOT of bikes that were statutory write offs (never again able to be registered) due to frame/engine mount damage caused by crash bar mounting points. So a bike that would have had a a scraped muffler and clutch cover, footpeg and levers etc now had broken cases/bent frame at the bar mounts. The larger the bars generally the worse the issue. Plus of course the larger the bars the more likelihood of the bike not just sliding down the road in a simple low side but now it often tends to flip over as well. Just something to consider when choosing crash bars. OEM accessory bars "should" be less risk than aftermarket, some of which were absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over.
Ciao
That’s very interesting and informative, and probably unexpected for most of us.
👍
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I'm not a huge fan of crash bars for 1 reason. In my previous hobby of buying cosmetically written off bikes from insurance auctions and rebuilding them I saw a LOT of bikes that were statutory write offs (never again able to be registered) due to frame/engine mount damage caused by crash bar mounting points. So a bike that would have had a a scraped muffler and clutch cover, footpeg and levers etc now had broken cases/bent frame at the bar mounts. The larger the bars generally the worse the issue. Plus of course the larger the bars the more likelihood of the bike not just sliding down the road in a simple low side but now it often tends to flip over as well. Just something to consider when choosing crash bars. OEM accessory bars "should" be less risk than aftermarket, some of which were absolutely guaranteed to damage the frame itself in anything more than a garage tip over.
Ciao
Two words "COMPREHENSIVE INSURANCE". ;)
If my bike falls over I hope it's written off.
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Mounted DNA filter today. (photo is not mine)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1350/0197/products/DNA_Interceptor_stage_2_Bikings_1024x1024.jpg)
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Those engine bars could be a good spot to mount some hi way pegs for kickin back with... I say spuds ;D
That's what I used them for. I have a knee that hurts after about 20min if is doesn't move around. So it's more important to me to have an alternate place to put my foot than aesthetics or potential damage to the bike if dropped, in an accident, etc.
Also this talk about crash bars reminded me of a comical review of them, pay attention to what is said around the 20 second mark. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUcc3XyKfu4
Here is a pic where you can see one side with the highway pegs mounted.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=61409;image)
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That's what I used them for. I have a knee that hurts after about 20min if is doesn't move around. So it's more important to me to have an alternate place to put my foot than aesthetics or potential damage to the bike if dropped, in an accident, etc.
.
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Here is a pic where you can see one side with the highway pegs mounted.
Oooooooooooh! I recently tore the meniscus in my right knee...and even before that, my knees and calves start to ache during long stints...this could be just the ticket! I may have to shamelessly copy that!
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Oooooooooooh! I recently tore the meniscus in my right knee...and even before that, my knees and calves start to ache during long stints...this could be just the ticket! I may have to shamelessly copy that!
Here are the pegs and clamps I used.
Rivco Chrome Anti-Vibration Footpegs https://www.jpcycles.com/product/564-311/rivco-chrome-anti-vibration-footpegs
Biker's Choice 1" Three-Piece Clamps https://www.jpcycles.com/product/305-0391/biker-s-choice-1-three-piece-clamps
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Here are the pegs and clamps I used.
Rivco Chrome Anti-Vibration Footpegs https://www.jpcycles.com/product/564-311/rivco-chrome-anti-vibration-footpegs
Biker's Choice 1" Three-Piece Clamps https://www.jpcycles.com/product/305-0391/biker-s-choice-1-three-piece-clamps
Thanks! Just order 'em in black 8)
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New to this forum and glad I found it.
I picked mine up from the Dealer today, brand new. :D
I added bar ends, and the brace bar pad and rode her to the beach!!
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New to this forum and glad I found it.
I picked mine up from the Dealer today, brand new. :D
I added bar ends, and the brace bar pad and rode her to the beach!!
My second-favorite color scheme, and looks like you got a proper helmet too!!! 8) Welcome to the forum!
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New to this forum and glad I found it.
I picked mine up from the Dealer today, brand new. :D
I added bar ends, and the brace bar pad and rode her to the beach!!
Congratulations!! Those black ones are so gorgeous.
Welcome to the forum.
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New to this forum and glad I found it.
I picked mine up from the Dealer today, brand new. :D
I added bar ends, and the brace bar pad and rode her to the beach!!
Welcome! That’s my favorite color of the new crop. Congratulations!
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Congratulations man, you’re gonna love it!!
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Welcome Enhanceco !
Sure you gonna love it, every kilometer is a joy !
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New to this forum and glad I found it.
I picked mine up from the Dealer today, brand new. :D
I added bar ends, and the brace bar pad and rode her to the beach!!
Dang - that a good looking bike.
Congratulations & enjoy!
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Today I built a pad for the side stand, I didn't like the idea with the ice hockey puck so I made something out of aluminum.
Regards
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Today I built a pad for the side stand, I didn't like the idea with the ice hockey puck so I made something out of aluminum.
Regards
That looks great! I got one of the "Universal" ones from FXCNC off of eBay. it does fit, though I had to swap out the hardware. Also, it bangs the exhaust a bit when I kick it up... That's prob gonna cause a problem in the future. LoL.
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Took it out for a ride
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Over the last couple of months I added some stuff to my 2021 Interceptor.
Heated grips from Koso. They work very well. Very discrete. No serarate controiller on the handlebar to clutter the view. Got'em on Amazon. About $122 shipped.
(https://i.ibb.co/WgQ1x4X/DSC00287.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/MgJCbTX/DSC00288.jpg)
Some levers from a place called FXCNC on Aliexpress. Seem very solid and precise and work great. And they fold to avoid breakage. About $45 shipped
(https://i.ibb.co/F3bBckq/DSC00289.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/X8PbSPQ/DSC00290.jpg)
I put a fairing on from Ermax I got at Moto Machines. It was originally fitted to my 2019 Speed Twin and when I sold the bike I put it on the Interceptor. It fits superbly. I had make my own mounts and it took hours but I think the results are worth it. Kinda expensive. About $245 shipped.
(https://i.ibb.co/bQ6NDBf/DSC00293.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/vqb4Jpc/DSC00292.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/7Q3w3S0/DSC00291.jpg)
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Installed the large RE crash bars that I got 2 months ago.
I got the chrome knowing that if later I want black I have a powder coating system.
I got the large ones for more protection plus as a place to mount my driving lights and to form a frame for winter leg shields.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=61326;image)
will you make your own leg shields i use to have them on a BMW R650
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Rode her. Parked for the pic
My version of a royal enfield cafe racer
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will you make your own leg shields i use to have them on a BMW R650
I'm not completely settled on the exact one but it will start life s a rear, ABS, dirt bike fender. Durable, light weight and inexpensive. ($18)
Like these but in black (https://www.denniskirk.com/dk/product_images/dk/1200pix/dk590176.jpg)
24.2 x 5.5 inches
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I did some work on my rear brake lever yesterday. Lightening and a new toe piece, plus some Duplicolor silver I had laying around and a shot of clear. Cost $18usd for the folding toe piece basically and a few hours. I also replaced the footpeg hanger bolts with Titanium ones. When I removed one of the hanger bolts it picked up a thread and damaged the bolt and I didn't want to re use it. Fortunately the frame threads were fine. Thought I may as well use some Ti bolts I already had in my Ti bolt store. I swapped out the std master cylinder cap screws for some Ti button heads as well as I think they just look better in this application.
You can makes something fairly nice from the original pieces without spending much money.
If you want to see the top end of the rear set market these on my 1198 go close.
Ciao
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Rode her. Parked for the pic
My version of a royal enfield cafe racer
How's that motor going? Lot's of fun?
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Motors running great
So much fun.
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Rode her. Parked for the pic
My version of a royal enfield cafe racer
Your stick on side covers are fitted around the wrong way. Looks a bit odd with the upper line not following the frame rail.
Ciao
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Your stick on side covers are fitted around the wrong way. Looks a bit odd with the upper line not following the frame rail.
Ciao
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(Too drunk to correctly identify the part being discussed. Disregard.)
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I kinda agree
That side your seeing is also broken
So it needs replacing
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I kinda agree
That side your seeing is also broken
So it needs replacing
I actually dont mind the look of them when fitted on the correct side. Quite stylish. Pity they didn't make them a full replacement cover.
Ciao
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I did some work on my rear brake lever yesterday. Lightening and a new toe piece, plus some Duplicolor silver I had laying around and a shot of clear. Cost $18usd for the folding toe piece basically and a few hours. I also replaced the footpeg hanger bolts with Titanium ones. When I removed one of the hanger bolts it picked up a thread and damaged the bolt and I didn't want to re use it. Fortunately the frame threads were fine. Thought I may as well use some Ti bolts I already had in my Ti bolt store. I swapped out the std master cylinder cap screws for some Ti button heads as well as I think they just look better in this application.
You can makes something fairly nice from the original pieces without spending much money.
If you want to see the top end of the rear set market these on my 1198 go close.
Ciao
If you want to save some weight, get shot of the OE headers, they weigh more than one of the OE silencers! About 7kg I think.
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If you want to save some weight, get shot of the OE headers, they weigh more than one of the OE silencers! About 7kg I think.
Yea they are something I may invest in, they are on the list but I'd like to get my head around the std EFI in detail before I go there so I can do same mapping adjustments. I'm not that obsessed with reducing the weight, I just like titanium for its ability to keep it's original finish forever mainly All my bikes are majority Ti fasteners, not really a fiscally responsible decision but they are very nice.
Too many projects waiting is my issue.
Ciao
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Yea they are something I may invest in, they are on the list but I'd like to get my head around the std EFI in detail before I go there so I can do same mapping adjustments. I'm not that obsessed with reducing the weight, I just like titanium for its ability to keep it's original finish forever mainly All my bikes are majority Ti fasteners, not really a fiscally responsible decision but they are very nice.
Too many projects waiting is my issue.
Ciao
The fuelling works better than with the stock exhausts.
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What did you do to your bike today?
[/quote]
Ordered an Air-Flow Seat Cover which should get here at some undetermined future date. They've been pretty good about answering emails promptly but alas, unable to provide any information about whether it is enroute or not. Postal deliver and all so who knows,
Supposed to provide super duper airflow between rider and motorcycle seat for a cooler, less sweaty bum. Still hot after 11AM in Tejas.
Photos, comments and opinion to follow ... at some undetermined future date.
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K&N airfilter, Boosterplug, and piggyback for battery charger.
Now waiting for decent, dry weather to try it out.
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K&N airfilter, Boosterplug, and piggyback for battery charger.
Now waiting for decent, dry weather to try it out.
Still running the stock exhaust? I'm going to go that route (at least the air filter. Jury's still out on the Booster plug for me) eventually but I've heard that the air filter doesn't do squat without an accompanying exhaust upgrade.
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Still running the stock exhaust? I'm going to go that route (at least the air filter. Jury's still out on the Booster plug for me) eventually but I've heard that the air filter doesn't do squat without an accompanying exhaust upgrade.
No, Zard Competition Slip ons, not road legal.
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Still running the stock exhaust? I'm going to go that route (at least the air filter. Jury's still out on the Booster plug for me) eventually but I've heard that the air filter doesn't do squat without an accompanying exhaust upgrade.
Many will disagree but I'm convinced that most guys think aftermarket exhausts give more power but they're often just in love with the sound. Louder seems more powerful. Louder sounds more popular.
Sure, some exhaust makers publish dyno tests that purport to prove this or that but remember you're riding a motorcycle not a dyno chart.
I'm on my 3rd exhaust, 4 if you count the stock system. I've noticed no performance difference among them.
YMMV 8)
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most guys think aftermarket exhausts give more power
It's not always top line power that matters, it's torque under the curve that improves the feel and responsiveness of an ICE vehicle.
An engine that can move more air has a better chance to make more power, but also improve the torque, and therefore the driveability.
You can experience this in turbocharged vehicles just by changing the turbo profile to move the torque curve. Non-linear acceleration may not make the car faster or more powerful, but it sure does make it a lot more fun to drive.
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Many will disagree but I'm convinced that most guys think aftermarket exhausts give more power but they're often just in love with the sound. Louder seems more powerful. Louder sounds more popular.
Sure, some exhaust makers publish dyno tests that purport to prove this or that but remember you're riding a motorcycle not a dyno chart.
I'm on my 3rd exhaust, 4 if you count the stock system. I've noticed no performance difference among them.
YMMV 8)
For me: sound, looks and weight, not interested in power gains at all.
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K&N airfilter, Boosterplug, and piggyback for battery charger.
Now waiting for decent, dry weather to try it out.
I ment pigtail/charger plug..... :-[
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Still running the stock exhaust? I'm going to go that route (at least the air filter. Jury's still out on the Booster plug for me) eventually but I've heard that the air filter doesn't do squat without an accompanying exhaust upgrade.
I did everything in reverse. First Boosterplug (much smoother ride), then snorkel with original filter (just for the sound, no performance change), then GPR mufflers (lost part of the mid range), then the DNA filter (HUGE improvement, got my mid range back, rides like original but with Boosterplug).
So yes, i guess a high-flow air filter only makes sense if you eliminate the snorkel and make sure gasses can get out as well.
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Many will disagree but I'm convinced that most guys think aftermarket exhausts give more power but they're often just in love with the sound. Louder seems more powerful. Louder sounds more popular.
Sure, some exhaust makers publish dyno tests that purport to prove this or that but remember you're riding a motorcycle not a dyno chart.
I'm on my 3rd exhaust, 4 if you count the stock system. I've noticed no performance difference among them.
YMMV 8)
I was very averse to changing the mufflers, but now that i have the light GPR's i do notice the weight difference. Something i didn't expect to notice that much as i do. As for power, i think the bike rides best completely stock with Boosterplug (my opinion), but Boosterplug, GPR's and DNA filter comes very close to original. As for power, i think i even lost power mounting the GPR's. But i won in sound. ;-)
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Many will disagree but I'm convinced that most guys think aftermarket exhausts give more power but they're often just in love with the sound. Louder seems more powerful. Louder sounds more popular.
Sure, some exhaust makers publish dyno tests that purport to prove this or that but remember you're riding a motorcycle not a dyno chart.
I'm on my 3rd exhaust, 4 if you count the stock system. I've noticed no performance difference among them.
YMMV 8)
Didn't Cyril do the definitive take on that a few months back, demonstrating zero or negligible gain? Not sure he's still around...
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I did some work on my rear brake lever yesterday. Lightening and a new toe piece, plus some Duplicolor silver I had laying around and a shot of clear. Cost $18usd for the folding toe piece basically and a few hours. I also replaced the footpeg hanger bolts with Titanium ones. When I removed one of the hanger bolts it picked up a thread and damaged the bolt and I didn't want to re use it. Fortunately the frame threads were fine. Thought I may as well use some Ti bolts I already had in my Ti bolt store. I swapped out the std master cylinder cap screws for some Ti button heads as well as I think they just look better in this application.
You can makes something fairly nice from the original pieces without spending much money.
If you want to see the top end of the rear set market these on my 1198 go close.
Ciao
Holy cow !! That is some kinda trick CNC shifter rear set !! Does it change seating comfort much? I once tried putting feet on passenger pegs and found it very uncomfortable. These CNC pedals aren't that far back ... but still.
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1979 Kreidler M19, 1953 Kreidler K50
Holy cow you!! That's some nice gear you have in your garage.
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Holy cow !! That is some kinda trick CNC shifter rear set !! Does it change seating comfort much? I once tried putting feet on passenger pegs and found it very uncomfortable. These CNC pedals aren't that far back ... but still.
Do you mean the Ducati rearsets?
Ciao
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I replaced the silver bolts that were left in the frame after I removed the grab rail with some black M8 button dome allen bolts 👍 Looks my ch better IMHO.
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So I got the reworked rear tail light and indicator assy finished today. I machined up a couple of adaptors for the indicators, finished all the brushed aluminium with a coat of clear to eliminate the maintenance and re terminated the indicator and stop/tail light wiring and re used the original connectors.
For those interested in a better quality of finish it's possible with the original alloy. Might even do the fork brace.
Ciao
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took the inter back to dealers engine management light came on last night had the 3000 mile service last week its under warranty so im not going to mess with it will let you know
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Added grip puppies, a bar and rack, and a windscreen, makes perfect a little more comfortable! Got my 16 tooth sprocket in the mail today, next weeks project! Loving it!
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I went tubeless with the Avon Trailriders. 150 rear, 110 front. More changes coming, but six hours to clean my previous poor attempt with the Outex tubeless sytem, and I'm just happy they are holding air with the 3M tape. New tail light, USB charger, and rear shocks are next. Will post when they are installed. Then I will ply y'all with questions about the Brembo RCS 15 master cylinder.
Cheers!
Edit: Forgot to mention that I'm still working on the side cover/panel issue.
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Wildlife Moto has a YouTube vid regarding the BremboM/C. He was/is very impressed. i googled "Brembo RCS 15 master cylinder. youtube enfield" it was the first result
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Thanks. I've seen the video. I'm going to install the EBC sintered pads first and get my impressions of them, then potentially go with the Brembo master cylinder. In that video, he quickly states he had the RCS 15 professionally installed because he didn't want to screw it up. I was a little confused, because swapping out a master cylinder and bleeding the brake line shouldn't be terribly complex. That was the gist of my future question/s. Is there something terribly difficult? Is there some issue with ABS I would need to address?
Wildlife Moto went with a Rizoma reservoir, and I don't blame him. The Brembo master cylinder is beautiful engineering. The Brembo reservoir looks cheap, like an after thought.
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I went tubeless with the Avon Trailriders. 150 rear, 110 front. More changes coming, but six hours to clean my previous poor attempt with the Outex tubeless sytem, and I'm just happy they are holding air with the 3M tape. New tail light, USB charger, and rear shocks are next. Will post when they are installed. Then I will ply y'all with questions about the Brembo RCS 15 master cylinder.
Cheers!
Edit: Forgot to mention that I'm still working on the side cover/panel issue.
Can’t wait to hear the feedback on your tyre selection. How tight were the rear clearances?
Edit- Oops, sorry, question answered in different thread, both by yourself and NVDUCATI!
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Finished and fitted.
Ciao
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Finished and fitted.
Ciao
Looks nice. Kudos.😁
Cheers Steve
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Looks nice. Kudos.😁
Cheers Steve
Yea the std housing comes up nicely with some hand work. I'm not 100% on the pointed indicators, a more blunt style would probably look better but I wanted to keep the OD down but not mini and the quality of these is nice in alloy.
The fork brace should come up just as well so I may do that as well and do the satin finish on the engine cases. Shutdown is killing the riding so need to do something.
Ciao
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Yea the std housing comes up nicely with some hand work. I'm not 100% on the pointed indicators, a more blunt style would probably look better but I wanted to keep the OD down but not mini and the quality of these is nice in alloy.
The fork brace should come up just as well so I may do that as well and do the satin finish on the engine cases. Shutdown is killing the riding so need to do something.
Ciao
Yeah, I understand what you mean about the pointy bits but it looks good. You’ve noticed I would think that our leanings are a little different. I love the minimalist’hack’ look (luckily for me!) but I admire the classy direction you’ve gone in.
The first thing my wife said to me upon seeing my handiwork was ‘Why did you take all those nice bits off??’
Ah well , horses for courses as they say!😁
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took the inter back to dealers engine management light came on last night had the 3000 mile service last week its under warranty so im not going to mess with it will let you know
was told air intake sensor they could not find a fault just reset it
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was told air intake sensor they could not find a fault just reset it
OR reconnected it again properly?
Ciao
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OR reconnected it again properly?
Ciao
That'd get my vote.
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I re fitted the front fork brace I had off for "finishing" Just the usual brushed aluminium look I favour with a clear coat. I've just used some Ti 6x20 Cap screws I had around but I've got some Ti dished hex headed bolts on the way which will look a bit nicer. Interestingly or I should probably say not unexpectedly I needed to shim one of the mount points with a .2mm shim to prevent loading when tightened down. I'm very tempted to do the brushed finish on the engine covers as well.
I removed the handlebar cross brace as well the other day which gives a cleaner look I think. I've got some Ti tapered caps on order for the bar clap as well which should look a bit nicer than the lawn mower grade std cap screws.
Ciao
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Put the bike back together, polished fork lowers, vinyl wrap upper fork legs, "Polished" fork brace. blacked out fork clamp bolts. Will paint calipers black when the weather heats up. Crap photo, will get a better one when I can get outside. Oh, may as well tell you that the polishing was not done by me but a local shop. They sent the forks out to get the powder coat off then spent 9 hours on 'em. All up $600 AUD. Bit devastated at the cost.....No lines/marks tho.
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Yea I think the metal finish looks better, a nice shot from further back would be nice. I'd go for the brushed finish myself but thats a personal choice thing. How was the black paint to get off? Stripper or mechanical? The grey on the rear light housing and fork brace is a pretty tough coating.
Ciao
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The powder coat was taken off by a shop. I just gave the forks to a metal polisher, he sent them out to get rid of the powder coat, then went to work. The fork brace and brake/gear select lever i did with a wheel on a drill (its all I got!) and the coating came off fine, just a generic wheel like a scotch pad but red! left a few "scratches" which i gave a go with wet/dry. Not a pro finish but good enuff! I like the look, but 600..ouch. My fault, I asked for a quote, couple of fork legs, black paint. Didnt know it was thick powder coat...any way live and learn
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The powder coat was taken off by a shop. I just gave the forks to a metal polisher, he sent them out to get rid of the powder coat, then went to work. The fork brace and brake/gear select lever i did with a wheel on a drill (its all I got!) and the coating came off fine, just a generic wheel like a scotch pad but red! left a few "scratches" which i gave a go with wet/dry. Not a pro finish but good enuff! I like the look, but 600..ouch. My fault, I asked for a quote, couple of fork legs, black paint. Didnt know it was thick powder coat...any way live and learn
Powder coat isn't usually tough to remove with stripper but whatever RE have used on some of their stuff it's pretty damn good. Even the glass bead blaster has it's work cut out.
Ciao
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Put the bike back together, polished fork lowers, vinyl wrap upper fork legs, "Polished" fork brace. blacked out fork clamp bolts. Will paint calipers black when the weather heats up. Crap photo, will get a better one when I can get outside. Oh, may as well tell you that the polishing was not done by me but a local shop. They sent the forks out to get the powder coat off then spent 9 hours on 'em. All up $600 AUD. Bit devastated at the cost.....No lines/marks tho.
Turned out nice!!!! You'll forget about the cost soon enough 8)
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Hey Phil, would you mind linking the TI bar mount bolts you ordered? I'd like to have a look as well.
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Hey Phil, would you mind linking the TI bar mount bolts you ordered? I'd like to have a look as well.
Yep sure. I used to by my Ti stuff from Toronto cycles, now I just buy directly from China mostly on ebay. Just make sure you buy Grade 5 fasteners. There are a gazzillion options from various sellers.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292129510032?var=591083419621
Ciao
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Haven’t’done’ it yet but I’ve just bought some bar end indicators off EBay. I wouldn’t have bothered, really, but coincidentally these have a backlit RE emblem on the outer face, so the temptation was too much. I’ve already fitted micro leds, but have been thinking about altering them anyway, so here’s my ‘prod’!
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Haven’t’done’ it yet but I’ve just bought some bar end indicators off EBay. I wouldn’t have bothered, really, but coincidentally these have a backlit RE emblem on the outer face, so the temptation was too much. I’ve already fitted micro leds, but have been thinking about altering them anyway, so here’s my ‘prod’!
Link?
Ciao
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Proved that my cold air intake substantially reduces IAT (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31251.msg381963#msg381963).
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Link?
Ciao
Sorry can’t get link happening (I’m at work and on phone ATM) but here’s screenshots of the item and the seller. They’re only cheapies, so if they’re crap, as is totally likely, no biggie.
Cheers Steve.
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Yep sure. I used to by my Ti stuff from Toronto cycles, now I just buy directly from China mostly on ebay. Just make sure you buy Grade 5 fasteners. There are a gazzillion options from various sellers.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292129510032?var=591083419621
Ciao
Thanks!
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Sorry can’t get link happening (I’m at work and on phone ATM) but here’s screenshots of the item and the seller. They’re only cheapies, so if they’re crap, as is totally likely, no biggie.
Cheers Steve.
Ok. It's always hard to know the quality from the internet. Just be aware that fitting these sort of things is not totally straight forward. The Interceptor and MAYBE the GT as well have pinned/welded in weights in the bar ends. Look on Youtube I think there's some videos of fitting these and you need to drill out the weight retaining pins and then drill the bars for the blinker wires to exit.
Ciao
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Ok. It's always hard to know the quality from the internet. Just be aware that fitting these sort of things is not totally straight forward. The Interceptor and MAYBE the GT as well have pinned/welded in weights in the bar ends. Look on Youtube I think there's some videos of fitting these and you need to drill out the weight retaining pins and then drill the bars for the blinker wires to exit.
Ciao
Yeah got it sussed. As far as quality goes, I think the price point means that they’re not gonna be Rolls Royce parts! Should be good for a bit of fun. If they look as good as the pics I’ll be fairly happy.👍
I hope the ends are backlit with the logo, look cool I think.
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Yeah got it sussed. As far as quality goes, I think the price point means that they’re not gonna be Rolls Royce parts! Should be good for a bit of fun. If they look as good as the pics I’ll be fairly happy.👍
I hope the ends are backlit with the logo, look cool I think.
I guess it's pretty hard to go wrong at the price.
Ciao
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I guess it's pretty hard to go wrong at the price.
Ciao
On the subject of indicators, do you have any idea as to the legality of multiple indicators? I ask because my taillight setup is not legal by virtue of distance between lamps, and I was thinking about putting a couple of legal micros on to keep the heat off me. If necessary I can just disable the taillight indicators, but I like em. Trying to negotiate the ADR’s is like nuclear physics to me, just an answer from someone that knows would be SOO much easier!
Likewise with bar end indicators for the front.
Aussie regs obviously.
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On the subject of indicators, do you have any idea as to the legality of multiple indicators? I ask because my taillight setup is not legal by virtue of distance between lamps, and I was thinking about putting a couple of legal micros on to keep the heat off me. If necessary I can just disable the taillight indicators, but I like em. Trying to negotiate the ADR’s is like nuclear physics to me, just an answer from someone that knows would be SOO much easier!
Likewise with bar end indicators for the front.
Aussie regs obviously.
Try this
https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0019/19153/MR808-Motorcycle-and-Sidecars.pdf
Ciao
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Try this
https://www.sa.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0019/19153/MR808-Motorcycle-and-Sidecars.pdf
Ciao
Oh please God. I hope this isn’t more legalese. I’ll look now!
Edit- Great I just looked at it, thanks heaps👍👍
That is a great summation of all the cross- referred crap I was trying to wade my way through. Thanks again.
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Oh please God. I hope this isn’t more legalese. I’ll look now!
Edit- Great I just looked at it, thanks heaps👍👍
That is a great summation of all the cross- referred crap I was trying to wade my way through. Thanks again.
Excellent. I can't believe the draconian attitude of the RTA in SA. Do you guys have yearly rego inspections?
Ciao
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Excellent. I can't believe the draconian attitude of the RTA in SA. Do you guys have yearly rego inspections?
Ciao
No thank fuck but it can’t be far off.
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Excellent. I can't believe the draconian attitude of the RTA in SA. Do you guys have yearly rego inspections?
Ciao
Draconian!? I don’t know if you’ve heard about the proposal, instigated by the Surgeon General, to impose 30 bloody kmh urban speed limits, based on the stats of injury reduction by doing so!!! Shallow thinking at its best/ worst!! How I hate C*^%S that quote statistics. Give any moron an office, and you’ll be drowned in statistics, the curse of the modern age.
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Draconian!? I don’t know if you’ve heard about the proposal, instigated by the Surgeon General, to impose 30 bloody kmh urban speed limits, based on the stats of injury reduction by doing so!!! Shallow thinking at its best/ worst!! How I hate C*^%S that quote statistics. Give any moron an office, and you’ll be drowned in statistics, the curse of the modern age.
30KPH speed limit! yikes. I've been to ADL twice and like the place a lot and wouldn't mind moving there but I don't know about the summer weather, the foot wide number plates and the cops looking at every mod on your car or bike. What about yearly rego inspections?
Ciao
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In Mudbourne, built up suburbs and the city love 40k zones and fixed cameras. The fines keep the economy afloat! Still, I think I would rather run the risk of the cameras than the NSW cops....
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30KPH speed limit! yikes. I've been to ADL twice and like the place a lot and wouldn't mind moving there but I don't know about the summer weather, the foot wide number plates and the cops looking at every mod on your car or bike. What about yearly rego inspections?
Ciao
It’s only a matter of time before annual inspections become mandated. I think we’re the state that doesn’t have them. I’m sure the Ministry Of Love can’t overlook that for long.
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It’s only a matter of time before annual inspections become mandated. I think we’re the state that doesn’t have them. I’m sure the Ministry Of Love can’t overlook that for long.
Ok thanks. One of the benefits of moving from Sydney to Victoria was not having the annual stupid road worthy check.
Ciao
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On the subject of indicators, I think it'll really depend on the cop on the day. One will let you go because you have a compliant set, another is just as likely to issue the defect for the non compliant ones despite there being others that meet the regs. Some of those cops are complete asshats who seem to have bestowed lawyer and engineer credentials upon themselves.
My god I hope they don't bring in yearly inspections here. SA is one of the few places you can still get around in a proper old beater. I love it like this. That said, if it does happen, I think I'll see about opening a workshop to do only inspections. That should be good for a bit of beer money without having to do any actual mechaniking.
I hadn't heard about the 30 kph thing. Remember when the urban limit was 60? then 50, now 40? I can't help thinking that cars back then were way less safe than now. If the SG wants to truly eliminate the pedestrian road toll, he ought to make the speed limit 0 kph. That or train people to walk on the footpath and look before crossing. That'd work.
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On the subject of indicators, I think it'll really depend on the cop on the day. One will let you go because you have a compliant set, another is just as likely to issue the defect for the non compliant ones despite there being others that meet the regs. Some of those cops are complete asshats who seem to have bestowed lawyer and engineer credentials upon themselves.
My god I hope they don't bring in yearly inspections here. SA is one of the few places you can still get around in a proper old beater. I love it like this. That said, if it does happen, I think I'll see about opening a workshop to do only inspections. That should be good for a bit of beer money without having to do any actual mechaniking.
I hadn't heard about the 30 kph thing. Remember when the urban limit was 60? then 50, now 40? I can't help thinking that cars back then were way less safe than now. If the SG wants to truly eliminate the pedestrian road toll, he ought to make the speed limit 0 kph. That or train people to walk on the footpath and look before crossing. That'd work.
Fcuk That!! Then morons would have to take their collective noses out of their collective phones for an occasional glance up to avoid 2 tonne of metal bearing down upon them! Whatever are you thinking??🤪
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On the subject of indicators, I think it'll really depend on the cop on the day. One will let you go because you have a compliant set, another is just as likely to issue the defect for the non compliant ones despite there being others that meet the regs. Some of those cops are complete asshats who seem to have bestowed lawyer and engineer credentials upon themselves.
[snip]
It would be nice for folks living in "width law" counties if there were indicators with telescopic stems. ;)
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Finally, removed the excess dielectric grease from relays and ensured terminal wires were properly seated. Replaced main fuel pump relay (top left) with a Narva that someone here recommended 🙏 just in case the OEM relay has been the cause of the bike dying three times while riding. Bike starts/ runs so I guess I bought the right one 🤔 Hoping that's problem solved.
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I changed all relays with quality Panasonic ones:
https://sinuss.nl/componenten/relais--solenoids/relais/automotive/2503617-cm1-r-12v-relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-35a-panasonic
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Finally, removed the excess dielectric grease from relays and ensured terminal wires were properly seated. Replaced main fuel pump relay (top left) with a Narva that someone here recommended 🙏 just in case the OEM relay has been the cause of the bike dying three times while riding. Bike starts/ runs so I guess I bought the right one 🤔 Hoping that's problem solved.
If top left relay was questionable, interchanging it with a lower accessory relay or even the starter relay to the right would have been enough to find if the problem was that relay and now corrected. If it was the relay the problem moves to an accessory or the starter. I'm too frugal to buy relays unnecessarily :-[
If your problem is now fixed you still don't know if it was the relay, the excessive grease or the contact.
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I changed all relays with quality Panasonic ones:
https://sinuss.nl/componenten/relais--solenoids/relais/automotive/2503617-cm1-r-12v-relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-35a-panasonic
I suspect spending money gives you a warm glow HAAA haaa. Saving money does the same for me ;)
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I suspect spending money gives you a warm glow HAAA haaa. Saving money does the same for me ;)
They are inexpensive, like €6,00 a piece,( that's about $7,00).
Little money for piece of mind, imo.
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I suspect spending money gives you a warm glow HAAA haaa. Saving money does the same for me ;)
I'm laughing at my parsimonious behaviour not others who change relays.
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They are inexpensive, like €6,00 a piece,( that's about $7,00).
Little money for piece of mind, imo.
I carry a spare relay in my jacket, it's a habit from riding a Guzzi which use the exact same ones.
Ciao
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The Narva relay is the correct one. I carry one, dunno, sometimes forums make me paranoid enough to spend a few bucks. I even have a bit of wire ready to hot wire the bike should the ignition barrel jam up again! But touch wood (my head) the beast is running rather well.
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Yesterday I fitted a pair of TEC mirrors. They seem to be a close copy of the Rizomas on my Guzzi but about 1/3 the cost. The quality is about an 8.5/9 using the Rizomas as a 10 so quite decent. The only issue I had was the clutch side adaptor was tightening down at bit of a weird angle until I recognised the top face where the adaptor seats was not perpendicular to the mounting bolt. It was miles out of alignment. The threaded hole seemed to be correct just the face wrong. I just broke out the die grinder and a carbide cutter and dressed it down and then hand finished it with a file to get it square. Not sure if it's a specific issue to my bike or not. Anyway that solved it all went on ok. A few images so people can see what they look like. Can't comment on the clarity yet as I've not ridden it but they are very tight to the point that you need 2 hands to adjust them. I machined up a couple of spacer as well for under the adaptors which aren't actually necessary.
Ciao
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If your problem is now fixed you still don't know if it was the relay, the excessive grease or the contact.
You're right, Kevin. But because the problem was so rare and random (3 sudden deaths in 12 mths) and never occurred at home while idling, there's no way of isolating the cause by elimination in a reasonable time frame. So I figured I'd do the simple things that've been found to be a cause and hope for the best. If it happens again at least I know it wasn't the relay, the excessive grease or the contacts; it'll be time to check the ignition and kill switch wiring and lean/ stand sensors. As others have said, it's handy to have a spare relay on hand. That's now the OEM I replaced.
Ps, Your welcome to borrow it if one of yours fails 😉
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You're right, Kevin. But because the problem was so rare and random (3 sudden deaths in 12 mths) and never occurred at home while idling, there's no way of isolating the cause by elimination in a reasonable time frame. So I figured I'd do the simple things that've been found to be a cause and hope for the best. If it happens again at least I know it wasn't the relay, the excessive grease or the contacts; it'll be time to check the ignition and kill switch wiring and lean/ stand sensors. As others have said, it's handy to have a spare relay on hand. That's now the OEM I replaced.
Ps, Your welcome to borrow it if one of yours fails 😉
The hole in your offer to lend a relay to me is, I'm reliably informed they're worth $7.
I'd have it listed in the for sale area in a flash. ;) :D ;D
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The hole in your offer to lend a relay to me is, I'm reliably informed they're worth $7.
I'd have it listed in the for sale area in a flash. ;) :D ;D
LOL! ;D
(https://images.fineartamerica.com/images/artworkimages/mediumlarge/3/scrooge-mcduck-melati-rosenberg.jpg)
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Put on the AEW TE101 exhausts, for a cheap 200 usd @Royal Spare Parts (after just a little negaciation) + 74 usd of import taxes and FedEx
stealing fees.
Apart the gain of 4 kg they look thinner and sound more Rock and Roll, even with the baffles in (that I will keep in) I love the sound when I cut the throttle !
And no popping under decel for information.
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Gave it a wash and went for a ride
https://youtu.be/396gqvBb0ww (https://youtu.be/396gqvBb0ww)
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Went with the RE embossed side cover bag. Some of you may recall that my plastic side cover fell off (I failed to secure it properly) and was hit by another vehicle. This bag bolts up directly, after removing the tool tray. Maybe today I'll get to work on the new tail light...
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Went with the RE embossed side cover bag. Some of you may recall that my plastic side cover fell off (I failed to secure it properly) and was hit by another vehicle. This bag bolts up directly, after removing the tool tray. Maybe today I'll get to work on the new tail light...
It looks great!
Remind me if you will what tyres and sizes you’re running. Cheers, Steve
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Appear to be Avon AV55 Trailriders up front, can't quite make out the size on the back...
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Appear to be Avon AV55 Trailriders up front, can't quite make out the size on the back...
We'll see if Seatex confirms, but looks like a 150 on the back.
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Indeed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224538353495
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334049114458
The slightly taller tire has changed RPM, but it is hard to guage how much. The front, I believe, is wider but with a smaller diameter/circumference. Based on the radar speed signs, I'm only going about 90% of indicated speed (on my speedometer). The tall back/short front has tightened the rake just a bit. Because I went tubeless with the Avons at the same time with suspension adjustments, I was a little unnerved at how "nimble" it became. But I absolutely love it, now that I have gotten used to it. Also, I can report that up to 110mph there is no "wobble". It is still rock steady. I may still go with the 16T front sprocket, but for now I am really satisfied with this set up.
Edit: I forgot to mention that as a 90/10 tire, it gives up nothing on the road. They are every bit as good as the Pirellis
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I changed all relays with quality Panasonic ones:
https://sinuss.nl/componenten/relais--solenoids/relais/automotive/2503617-cm1-r-12v-relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-35a-panasonic
[/quote dont want to appear stupid but where are these relays on the bike please
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I changed all relays with quality Panasonic ones:
https://sinuss.nl/componenten/relais--solenoids/relais/automotive/2503617-cm1-r-12v-relay-automotive-spdt-14vdc-35a-panasonic
[/quote dont want to appear stupid but where are these relays on the bike please
Under LH side cover
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thank you sir for that
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Went with the RE embossed side cover bag. Some of you may recall that my plastic side cover fell off (I failed to secure it properly) and was hit by another vehicle. This bag bolts up directly, after removing the tool tray. Maybe today I'll get to work on the new tail light...
Hi, what are the integrated bar end mirrors / turn signals , they look great?
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Here's the link to the bar-end turn indicators:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BNJH5FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And this is the link to the rear mini LED indicators, which bolt up nicely at the grab rail attachment:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NVPYGR5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Yesterday I painted the letters of my new front tyre's manufactorer name with white tyre paint and mounted it.
Maybe childish, but I like it.
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Yesterday I painted the letters of my new front tyre's manufactorer name with white tyre paint and mounted it.
Maybe childish, but I like it.
I like it too!
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Gave it a wash and went for a ride
https://youtu.be/396gqvBb0ww (https://youtu.be/396gqvBb0ww)
Super cool ride, it looks a lot like some country roads here in France, but without cars acting as mobile chicanes !
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Went for a long ride!
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Super cool ride, it looks a lot like some country roads here in France, but without cars acting as mobile chicanes !
Cheers, we're spoilt - sometimes you can ride the entire road without seeing a car
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Indeed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224538353495
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334049114458
The slightly taller tire has changed RPM, but it is hard to guage how much. The front, I believe, is wider but with a smaller diameter/circumference. Based on the radar speed signs, I'm only going about 90% of indicated speed (on my speedometer). The tall back/short front has tightened the rake just a bit. Because I went tubeless with the Avons at the same time with suspension adjustments, I was a little unnerved at how "nimble" it became. But I absolutely love it, now that I have gotten used to it. Also, I can report that up to 110mph there is no "wobble". It is still rock steady. I may still go with the 16T front sprocket, but for now I am really satisfied with this set up.
Edit: I forgot to mention that as a 90/10 tire, it gives up nothing on the road. They are every bit as good as the Pirellis
Seatex, forgive me if this has been addressed elsewhere - can those tires be run with tubes? I think I’ll be in the market for new tires inside the next year and I really like the looks of those. Your glowing review thus far doesn’t hurt either.
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Seatex, forgive me if this has been addressed elsewhere - can those tires be run with tubes? I think I’ll be in the market for new tires inside the next year and I really like the looks of those. Your glowing review thus far doesn’t hurt either.
My understanding is that any tubeless tire can run with tubes. It just doesn't work inversely (meaning a tubed tire must have a tube) because of the necessity of beads setting inside the rim and potentially other factors of tire construction. For my purposes, it is a fantastic tire. I went tubeless with the 3M tape, and I haven't lost any PSI in about 600 miles. Punctures are rare, but do happen. When you do put new shoes on your steed, consider going tubeless. That said, I might be doing about a 2000 mile trip this Fall, and I will bring spare tubes just in case the problem is more than a screw in the tire. As long as the integrity of the tire is maintained, a tube might get me however many miles I need to go. Best wishes, and post pics of whatever tire you settle on.
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Seatex, forgive me if this has been addressed elsewhere - can those tires be run with tubes? I think I’ll be in the market for new tires inside the next year and I really like the looks of those. Your glowing review thus far doesn’t hurt either.
Yeah, Seatex has that right. FWIW I have tubes in those same tires. (I'll do the 3M conversion, eventually)
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Yeah, Seatex has that right. FWIW I have tubes in those same tires. (I'll do the 3M conversion, eventually)
Just wondering, are you also satisfied with the performance of the tire? I think it is excellent on the road, and "adequate" for the limited gravel and offroad trails I've ridden. But I'd absolutely love to hear other opinions.
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Thanks for the info. 7,300 miles on the stock tires now, and they still have life in them. I’m thinking next spring or summer I’ll be getting some new tires.
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Just wondering, are you also satisfied with the performance of the tire? I think it is excellent on the road, and "adequate" for the limited gravel and offroad trails I've ridden. But I'd absolutely love to hear other opinions.
Yeah, very satisfied. These are high performing tires and I also have been using the same tires on my Suzuki DL1000A for four seasons now. I just did a quick search and I find 20 posts by me regarding these tires so I'm sure a lot of members must be sick and "tire'd" of my comments. The highlights include that Avon do not out source the manufacture of their premium tires. They have super traction in the wet with the big-block and sipe cavities. They start out and stay rounder than most tires. The carcass design and construction is the same for both RoadRider and TrailRider versions. The UK website has a good explanation of their technologies.
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Placed some strong magnets around the oilfilter...
https://www.ebay.nl/itm/313664550204?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=612459789854&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648
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From my RE Dealer:
New tires front and rear with tubes also too as well. Michelin Road Classic ( 130/70B 18 63H & 100-90-18 56H ) A quick look around web and dealer was quite a bit less expensive.
Warranty brake replacement but the rear brake pedal was a little mushy so went back had 'em flush fluid and adjust. ( no charge for this return work )
Loosened and reset forks in triple tree. It has fallen over so many times from gravity flux conditions it felt out of whack.
I replaced the front brake pads. Have a pair for rear brake pads but originals are still in okay shape. Besides I can't figure out how to get the old pads out yet.
Having surgery in a weeks or so and want bike up and ready to go when I can put pressure on my taint again. By then weather here ought to be more tolerable and there are several State parks with rivers or lakes I want to visit.
Followed a long and winding selection of streets home since the bike is really, really nice to ride.
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I did a temporary wire up of the new tail light and LED turn indicators. Not soldered, but just twisted, crimped, and electrical tape until I am sure of my final configuration. I already think I will remove the rubber grommet on the fender, as it really serves no purpose. For anyone wondering why I don't do a frame cutting "tail tidy", I am compromising on the minimalistic look I want with the ability to swap out my seat to ride two up.
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I did a temporary wire up of the new tail light and LED turn indicators. Not soldered, but just twisted, crimped, and electrical tape until I am sure of my final configuration. I already think I will remove the rubber grommet on the fender, as it really serves no purpose. For anyone wondering why I don't do a frame cutting "tail tidy", I am compromising on the minimalistic look I want with the ability to swap out my seat to ride two up.
Looks great! I wish there was a better solution for that rubber grommet. I swapped my fenders for black ones to hide it better.
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I designed, fabricated, and installed two airbox heat shields, one for the Interceptor and one for the Continental GT.
Details starting here in my Project MLG build thread (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31251.msg383388#msg383388).
Teaser pix:
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31251.0;attach=62553;image)
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31251.0;attach=62555;image)
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I designed, fabricated, and installed two airbox heat shields, one for the Interceptor and one for the Continental GT.
Details starting here in my Project MLG build thread (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31251.msg383388#msg383388).
Teaser pix:
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31251.0;attach=62553;image)
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31251.0;attach=62555;image)
You are determined to extract every bit of power out of that engine. Can't wait to see the final dyno results.
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You are determined to extract every bit of power out of that engine. Can't wait to see the final dyno results.
Within my limited abilities, and using available "bolt on" bits, yes! 8)
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Greased the chain.
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Greased the chain.
Ditto - while musing that my tube of Motul C5 chain paste has lasted 14,000km and still going strong.
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Add some farkle (seat cowl), looks great in my opinion but bye bye side bags, it looks ugly with the seat cowl.
Plugged the booster plug and installed a DNA air filter, engine seems a bit smoother, but it already was, no sensation of more power but I didn't expected it, in short, a waste of money I think. Let's see if the ECU adapt in a few kilometers ...
Still happy with the AEW exhausts, a bit too loud though, so I never rode in such low revs in town in my life ;D
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Add some farkle (seat cowl), looks great in my opinion but bye bye side bags, it looks ugly with the seat cowl.
Plugged the booster plug and installed a DNA air filter, engine seems a bit smoother, but it already was, no sensation of more power but I didn't expected it, in short, a waste of money I think. Let's see if the ECU adapt in a few kilometers ...
Still happy with the AEW exhausts, a bit too loud though, so I never rode in such low revs in town in my life ;D
Bike is looking good. I thought the same about BP
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Bike is looking good.
Thanks, I love it but yours is one of the nicest I ever seen, really.
This afternoon I was downtown for some shopping and a woman got out of the shop just before me, I saw her staring at the Interceptor and said when I arrived " I don't know nothing about bikes but this one is wonderful"
Funny
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Thanks, I love it but yours is one of the nicest I ever seen, really.
This afternoon I was downtown for some shopping and a woman got out of the shop just before me, I saw her staring at the Interceptor and said when I arrived " I don't know nothing about bikes but this one is wonderful"
Funny
Nice. Did you get her phone number? ;)
It’s a credit to RE, that non bikers find beauty in their bikes. She wouldn’t have looked twice at a MT09.
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Nope, she was not my kind, and ooops I've forgotten, I'm married !
You're right, recent bikes, except some, have this manga look I don't like, and they all look the same, even BMW's ...
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Voun what handlebars. Have you got on your bike, Also are they a straight swap?
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A few minutes ago
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Voun what handlebars. Have you got on your bike, Also are they a straight swap?
The flat track handlebars from Baak, mine is not the chrome model, it seems anodized and is more expensive than the chrome one (115 instead of 69 €)
Fortunatly I got it for free as part of the negociation with the RE agent.
But you need to change cables and apparently the front brake durit. Here's the links :
https://www.baakmotocyclettes.com/fr/motocyclettes/2463-5176-guidon-flat-track-22mm#/826-finition-chrome
https://www.baakmotocyclettes.com/fr/interceptor-continental-gt-650/3277-7489-kit-cables-longs-royal-enfield-650-interceptor-continental#/679-choix-kit_complet
it's bloody expensive like everything at Baak !
But I love the look and the position given.
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From the driver's position ...
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The flat track handlebars from Baak, mine is not the chrome model, it seems anodized and is more expensive than the chrome one (115 instead of 69 €)
Fortunatly I got it for free as part of the negociation with the RE agent.
But you need to change cables and apparently the front brake durit. Here's the links :
https://www.baakmotocyclettes.com/fr/motocyclettes/2463-5176-guidon-flat-track-22mm#/826-finition-chrome
https://www.baakmotocyclettes.com/fr/interceptor-continental-gt-650/3277-7489-kit-cables-longs-royal-enfield-650-interceptor-continental#/679-choix-kit_complet
it's bloody expensive like everything at Baak !
But I love the look and the position given.
Looks like brushed or what some call satin chrome to me. You won't be anodising steel handlebars. It's quite a nice finish.
Ciao
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My Titanium fasteners arrived today.
Ciao
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I guess it's pretty hard to go wrong at the price.
Ciao
Well, they arrived. Not too bad quality, but no good to me for 2 reasons.
They’re white only, so only good for running lights.
Upon contemplation, the backsweep of the bars combined with the bar end mirrors occludes them from sight from the front of the bike. May as well hang a big sign saying ‘Come get me’ to police and traffic. They ARE backlit with an RE emblem, which is red, very illegal from side of bike.
Pity, they’d probably look good on a 500 classic.
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Removed the center stand.
(Cue hysteria)
Seriously, though, since I installed the TEC Stinger 2-1 I kept catching my heel on the center stand so I installed spools and pulled it. Lecture away.
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Removed the center stand.
(Cue hysteria)
Seriously, though, since I installed the TEC Stinger 2-1 I kept catching my heel on the center stand so I installed spools and pulled it. Lecture away.
Moar weight savings, FTW! \m/ 8) \m/
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Moar weight savings, FTW! \m/ 8) \m/
LoL. If I was worried about weight I'd worry less about removing stuff from the bike and more about removing beers from my hands. It was 50/50 irritation with the constant little bruise I had on the back of my calf and aesthetics.
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Installed Cnc billet foot controls
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Rebuilt my "fuel injection" system after it sat for 3 years without any attempt to start it. ;) :) :D ;D
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FXCNC black aluminum clutch and brake levers. A modest change, but it has mostly completed the look I'm going for....until I decide to make it a scrambler next year ;D
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FXCNC black aluminum clutch and brake levers. A modest change, but it has mostly completed the look I'm going for....until I decide to make it a scrambler next year ;D
Very nice! Mostly completed ... consider blacking out the flasher button?
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FXCNC black aluminum clutch and brake levers. A modest change, but it has mostly completed the look I'm going for....until I decide to make it a scrambler next year ;D
I'm a fan of their stuff. Decent quality for a dirt cheap price. I've got their shorty levers (had the longer ones too but they contacted my bar end mirrors) and a side stand extension plate, and I'll be getting their headlight bracket when I get ready to pull the front end for that and fork gaiters.
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I'm a fan of their stuff. Decent quality for a dirt cheap price. I've got their shorty levers (had the longer ones too but they contacted my bar end mirrors) and a side stand extension plate, and I'll be getting their headlight bracket when I get ready to pull the front end for that and fork gaiters.
I am too. So much so, that I bought these levers twice. No idea where I misplaced the first set two months ago. Oh well, the new ones are on.
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Very nice! Mostly completed ... consider blacking out the flasher button?
Not opposed to it, but low on my priority list. I think Motone makes some beautiful control switches.
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Not opposed to it, but low on my priority list. I think Motone makes some beautiful control switches.
I used a plain old sharpie. I guess they unreasonably bother me. Maybe because I can't see it when I'm riding and have never not found it during flight .... maybe because when I'm looking at my bike it just sticks out as the product of some faceless committee who needed to do something on some particular Wednesday. A bit of a windmill, I guess.
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the product of some faceless committee who needed to do something on some particular Wednesday. A bit of a windmill, I guess.
;D ok, Don ;D ;D ;D
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Today I purchased a rear end tail tidy bracket with rear light from Baak (France) and some LED's + front head light bracket from Tec (UK). Anyone got some insight into the delivery times ex Europe to NZ. Baak use DHL, whilst Tec use Royal Mail with an almost 'no promises' type disclaimer.
Actually, have any Kiwis or Aussies on this forum recently brought parts from these guys? How long did delivery take?
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Today I purchased a rear end tail tidy bracket with rear light from Baak (France) and some LED's + front head light bracket from Tec (UK). Anyone got some insight into the delivery times ex Europe to NZ. Baak use DHL, whilst Tec use Royal Mail with an almost 'no promises' type disclaimer.
Actually, have any Kiwis or Aussies on this forum recently brought parts from these guys? How long did delivery take?
How long is a piece of string? Had a DHL delivery from Oz yesterday which was ordered on 2 Sept. UK Royal Mail is usually pretty good but in covid time it varies all over the place..
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Installed a cheap fly screen from Amazon that I'm actually really impressed with. Paint in the brackets is a bit rough, but the screen itself is the most solid I've had yet.
Then I went for a ride and spend two hours running from the rain.
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Installed Cnc billet foot controls
Where did you get these from?
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FXCNC black aluminum clutch and brake levers. A modest change, but it has mostly completed the look I'm going for....until I decide to make it a scrambler next year ;D
Looking great! Is their a specific set of levers for the 650s? Their website has ~20 different options...
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My new, spare Orange Crush Interceptor fueltank is at the paintshop now to have it sprayed in British Racing Green Metallic...
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My new, spare Orange Crush Interceptor fueltank is at the paintshop now to have it sprayed in British Racing Green Metallic...
Are you using the Royal Enfield BRG or some other variant???
Here's my CGT in an early 80s Jaguar non-metallic BRG
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=31767.0;attach=62878;image)
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NO, I want the deepest, richest British Racing Green Metallic available, almost metal flake, seventies style, small gold striping, deep black lower part of the tank, (pattern like the Baker Express or Sunset Strip, but different color of course...).. The original emblems are re-used.
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NO, I want the deepest, richest British Racing Green Metallic available, almost metal flake, seventies style, small gold striping, deep black lower part of the tank, (pattern like the Baker Express or Sunset Strip, but different color of course...).. The original emblems are re-used.
Oooooooh, that's going to be spectacular! Can't wait to see it!
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I'll post pics when it's ready of course..!!
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Stop with the paint jobs! :'( The only thing greener than those tanks is me...with envy... i like my chrome Interceptor..but the thought of a pretty wild 70's paint job seems cool.
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Stop with the paint jobs! :'( The only thing greener than those tanks is me...with envy... i like my chrome Interceptor..but the thought of a pretty wild 70's paint job seems cool.
Here, I'll be the paint job cooler. I'm eventually going to get my Ravishing Red tank redone in straight black so I can slap some ghosty reflective decals on it for that murdered out look. (If you've ever seen the black 3M reflective stuff then that's what I'm going to use for the RE logo and some gothy spiderwebs and shit.)
I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who's going to get all excited about that. :D
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Here, I'll be the paint job cooler. I'm eventually going to get my Ravishing Red tank redone in straight black so I can slap some ghosty reflective decals on it for that murdered out look. (If you've ever seen the black 3M reflective stuff then that's what I'm going to use for the RE logo and some gothy spiderwebs and shit.)
I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who's going to get all excited about that. :D
Why stop there? Go full goth or go home: https://youtu.be/4gcIxx04eQw?t=279 (https://youtu.be/4gcIxx04eQw?t=279)
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Why stop there? Go full goth or go home: https://youtu.be/4gcIxx04eQw?t=279 (https://youtu.be/4gcIxx04eQw?t=279)
That's some Type A personality goth shit. I'm a lazy goth. Black t-shirts and jeans, I only paint my nails occasionally, etc etc.
Also, that bike looks like shit. LoL.
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Okay, when I wrote that i was done with the aesthetics of my bike....
So I added Trip Machine wraps, and I tried the Sharpie blackout of the High-beam flasher. the bar-end mirrors are similar but new. They are "foldable". Hope I don't need that feature.
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Looking great! Is their a specific set of levers for the 650s? Their website has ~20 different options...
Direct fit for 650.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/304081220138
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Bled brakes and fitted these mirrors. Pretty but a bit useless, muddy blue tint and a tad small.
(https://i.ibb.co/GVZfCVg/Mirror1.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/p3GQscX/Mirror2.jpg)
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Okay, when I wrote that i was done with the aesthetics of my bike....
So I added Trip Machine wraps, and I tried the Sharpie blackout of the High-beam flasher. the bar-end mirrors are similar but new. They are "foldable". Hope I don't need that feature.
I also did the Sharpie blackout thing on mine today!
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Finally got around to adding the S&S 50-state pipes, along with a Sprint air filter (thanks to whomever that was back on another thread for that recommendation).
After letting the ECU adjust to the new filter and pipes, took it for a quick 10-minute ride around the neighborhood, with speeds ranging from slow to moderate (60 mph). Very happy with midrange but really it's all about the new sound. Now it sounds like it should have when I bought it :)
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Brought home my brand new 2022 Red Royal Enfield Continental GT.
Swapped the stock seat for the ‘Premium Touring seat with red cowl, i stalled the compact engine guards, then tried and failed(so far) installing the center stand. Can’t find anyplace to hook spring to frame!
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Installed my fork brace from @TrianglePete
Looks much nicer than stock, haven't been on a ride yet to gauge the performance difference but i'm sure it will perform just fine.
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ALSO--- My "Touring" seat came in on the Concorde from India (no idea how they ship so fast via ebay.) For $120 bucks i figured what the heck i'd give it a try and maybe save myself a sore backside or two before the end of the season. Worst case if it's not as comfortable as I need I can send out my stock seat for a custom build and not be seatless. I like the white piping, colored touring tag near the back, and embroidered "RE" symbol on the back of the seat. It looks to be a little more padded/comfy and certainly decent quality for the money.
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ALSO--- My "Touring" seat came in on the Concorde from India (no idea how they ship so fast via ebay.) For $120 bucks i figured what the heck i'd give it a try and maybe save myself a sore backside or two before the end of the season. Worst case if it's not as comfortable as I need I can send out my stock seat for a custom build and not be seatless. I like the white piping, colored touring tag near the back, and embroidered "RE" symbol on the back of the seat. It looks to be a little more padded/comfy and certainly decent quality for the money.
I have one of those seats too. Same logic, if I didn't like it send the stock one to get reupholstered. I find the touring seat to be firm but that is a good thing. I would like it to be a little wider for more support but doesn't bother me enough to send the stock one off.
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Finally got around to adding the S&S 50-state pipes, along with a Sprint air filter (thanks to whomever that was back on another thread for that recommendation).
After letting the ECU adjust to the new filter and pipes, took it for a quick 10-minute ride around the neighborhood, with speeds ranging from slow to moderate (60 mph). Very happy with midrange but really it's all about the new sound. Now it sounds like it should have when I bought it :)
They certainly look nice!
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Brought home my brand new 2022 Red Royal Enfield Continental GT.
Swapped the stock seat for the ‘Premium Touring seat with red cowl, i stalled the compact engine guards, then tried and failed(so far) installing the center stand. Can’t find anyplace to hook spring to frame!
Where’s that “Like” button………… :)
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ALSO--- My "Touring" seat came in on the Concorde from India (no idea how they ship so fast via ebay.) For $120 bucks i figured what the heck i'd give it a try and maybe save myself a sore backside or two before the end of the season. Worst case if it's not as comfortable as I need I can send out my stock seat for a custom build and not be seatless. I like the white piping, colored touring tag near the back, and embroidered "RE" symbol on the back of the seat. It looks to be a little more padded/comfy and certainly decent quality for the money.
,
I thought along similar lines, although with only bicycle seats to compare, I didn't really have a problem with OEM and bought the new touring seat mainly for looks. Mine arrived a week or two ago and first decent test rides of 150kms on mix of city and country roads proved it's an excellent upgrade worth the money. Dampening and rebound are plush; better than hagons, YSS and Olins together... Okay, I'm exaggerating a little, but as I wasn't expecting much, the new comfort level was a pleasant surprise and much appreciated, especially on crappy roads. No problem after 2+ hours. (Thanks for the heads up, Phil... perhaps, in another thread)
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Not today, But a few days ago. Deleted stock rear lights and fender, cut off old bracket and added LEDs.
Could you point out what tools you needed for your fender delete and any resources you recommend for it? What you did to your bike is drool-inducing.
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I buy that a few momentos ago
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True'd both wheels and dropped forks flush with the top yoke.
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True'd both wheels and dropped forks flush with the top yoke.
What does dropping the fork tubes accomplish?
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What does dropping the fork tubes accomplish?
It gives you a "touch" more rake so as to shade from quickest steering to a more steady configuration for sweepers, etc. I have mine flush. NOTE: the top of the triple tree is sculpted so there should still be a little visible on one section of the circle. It will be obvious once you really look.
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I buy that a few momentos ago
Installed at last, I change all the cables, and rerouting front brames line
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Installed a Givi top case. I'm really conflicted about it because I don't love the look but the practicality can't be argued with. At least it's easy to remove for times when I don't need cargo capacity or a place to stash my helmet and gloves.
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Installed a Givi top case. I'm really conflicted about it because I don't love the look but the practicality can't be argued with. At least it's easy to remove for times when I don't need cargo capacity or a place to stash my helmet and gloves.
On my.... I feel your pain.
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Installed a Givi top case. I'm really conflicted about it because I don't love the look but the practicality can't be argued with. At least it's easy to remove for times when I don't need cargo capacity or a place to stash my helmet and gloves.
Ouch. If I had a top box I'd install a Versys on it. :o
Edit: even though I have the Givi rack.
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Ouch. If I had a top box I'd install a Versys on it. :o
Edit: even though I have the Givi rack.
Yeah, I'd love to have a stable, but I'm also quite enjoying being married...
I've got the Givi pannier racks and e22n bags, but I managed to crack one in a bit of a spill and decided to just remove them for now until I figure out how to either repair or replace it. Honestly, the top case is uglier but more practical.
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did a tiny little thing.
removed the rear mudguard (keeping the front one though as i dont mind the extra protection up there).
started undoing the bolts and thought it would slip right out. turns out theres an electrical wire that runs right through the plastic mudguard for some reason? instead of taking more shit apart i just ended up cutting a little slit on the edge of the mudguard and slipped the wire through.
(https://i.imgur.com/qoRsY67.jpg)
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did a tiny little thing.
removed the rear mudguard (keeping the front one though as i dont mind the extra protection up there).
started undoing the bolts and thought it would slip right out. turns out theres an electrical wire that runs right through the plastic mudguard for some reason? instead of taking more shit apart i just ended up cutting a little slit on the edge of the mudguard and slipped the wire through.
(https://i.imgur.com/qoRsY67.jpg)
I think the rear looks untidy and bodged just removing the guard extension. I removed mine and trimmed it back and re installed it. I think it looks much more refined like this and not like it's had some backyard hack job done on it. I also used the split the guard for the wiring technique.
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While the mudguard extension is a fairly inconsequential piece, for the benefit of others who may wish to remove it, it's not required to cut it in the manner depicted above. If you remove the seat, you can get to the wiring harness and simply disconnect it there, pull it through, and re-route. Takes all of 3 minutes to do and you don't have to damage your original parts.
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I think the rear looks untidy and bodged just removing the guard extension. I removed mine and trimmed it back and re installed it. I think it looks much more refined like this and not like it's had some backyard hack job done on it. I also used the split the guard for the wiring technique.
i like it! what did you use to cut it?
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i like it! what did you use to cut it?
I leave the extension on the bike and use thin 1/8 inch automotive painters edging tape (like pinstripe tape) and use that to create the line for trimming as it's flexible tape that can make a clean round corner with. The a 18 tooth hacksaw blade in a a hand holder and rough cut close to the tape line then I use my linisher with an 80 grit belt to shape it accurately to the line then a carbide cutter in my porting tool to finish/round off the edge. Looks factory. You can also do the initial cutting with tin snips. It's the last part that's the tricky bit to getting a nice smooth rounded edge. You can use a soldering iron to do this as well buy running the shaft of the hot iron over the cut edges without lingering to round them off or a very sharp box cutter scraped along the cut edge which can also work. This type of plastic is not really hand sandable to achieve a nice smooth textured edge so you need to apply some other techniques. You can practice on the unwanted part of the guard extension.
You could make it shorter than mine but I retained the reflector beneath the number plate and have the extension finishing about 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of the reflector. I think it looks neater if there is nothing like a reflector or the bottom edge of the number plate hanging below the guard or guard extension.
Ciao
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I leave the extension on the bike and use thin 1/8 inch automotive painters edging tape (like pinstripe tape) and use that to create the line for trimming as it's flexible tape that can make a clean round corner with. The a 18 tooth hacksaw blade in a a hand holder and rough cut close to the tape line then I use my linisher with an 80 grit belt to shape it accurately to the line then a carbide cutter in my porting tool to finish/round off the edge. Looks factory. You can also do the initial cutting with tin snips. It's the last part that's the tricky bit to getting a nice smooth rounded edge. You can use a soldering iron to do this as well buy running the shaft of the hot iron over the cut edges without lingering to round them off or a very sharp box cutter scraped along the cut edge which can also work. This type of plastic is not really hand sandable to achieve a nice smooth textured edge so you need to apply some other techniques. You can practice on the unwanted part of the guard extension.
You could make it shorter than mine but I retained the reflector beneath the number plate and have the extension finishing about 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of the reflector. I think it looks neater if there is nothing like a reflector or the bottom edge of the number plate hanging below the guard or guard extension.
Ciao
Where do you place the mandatory rear red reflector?
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Attached my reflector to the number plate mounting bracket
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While the mudguard extension is a fairly inconsequential piece, for the benefit of others who may wish to remove it, it's not required to cut it in the manner depicted above. If you remove the seat, you can get to the wiring harness and simply disconnect it there, pull it through, and re-route. Takes all of 3 minutes to do and you don't have to damage your original parts.
Did you do it this way yourself?
On my Interceptor the wiring socket was to big to pull it through the mudguard, so I had to cut the extension as well, which I don't mind, because I don't intend to ever mount it again...
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I did. No troubles.
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I leave the extension on the bike and use thin 1/8 inch automotive painters edging tape (like pinstripe tape) and use that to create the line for trimming as it's flexible tape that can make a clean round corner with. The a 18 tooth hacksaw blade in a a hand holder and rough cut close to the tape line then I use my linisher with an 80 grit belt to shape it accurately to the line then a carbide cutter in my porting tool to finish/round off the edge. Looks factory. You can also do the initial cutting with tin snips. It's the last part that's the tricky bit to getting a nice smooth rounded edge. You can use a soldering iron to do this as well buy running the shaft of the hot iron over the cut edges without lingering to round them off or a very sharp box cutter scraped along the cut edge which can also work. This type of plastic is not really hand sandable to achieve a nice smooth textured edge so you need to apply some other techniques. You can practice on the unwanted part of the guard extension.
You could make it shorter than mine but I retained the reflector beneath the number plate and have the extension finishing about 1/4 inch below the bottom edge of the reflector. I think it looks neater if there is nothing like a reflector or the bottom edge of the number plate hanging below the guard or guard extension.
Ciao
ahhh ok. i was wondering how you eventually smoothed out the plastic as it didnt seem sandable to me. thanks. i'm ok with leaving off the entire mudguard and will eventually change up the rear brake light setup. winter is coming and there will be nothing else to do anyway!
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While the mudguard extension is a fairly inconsequential piece, for the benefit of others who may wish to remove it, it's not required to cut it in the manner depicted above. If you remove the seat, you can get to the wiring harness and simply disconnect it there, pull it through, and re-route. Takes all of 3 minutes to do and you don't have to damage your original parts.
oh for sure ideally no parts should be irreversibly damaged. but i just got lazy and even if i put the mudguard back on, you don't notice the slit anyway. i just didnt want to fiddle around with the wires. when i was putting the flyscreen on, i found it a pain to disconnect the headlight indicators. those plastic sleeves on the wires are tough to separate!
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oh for sure ideally no parts should be irreversibly damaged. but i just got lazy and even if i put the mudguard back on, you don't notice the slit anyway. i just didnt want to fiddle around with the wires. when i was putting the flyscreen on, i found it a pain to disconnect the headlight indicators. those plastic sleeves on the wires are tough to separate!
Totally get it. The individual indicator connectors are a pain because they require the use of a pin tool or jeweler screwdriver; the main connector to which I am referring is near the ECU and is very easy to disconnect.
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Friday, I finished the LED upgrade on my Interceptor. Originally I had cheap Ebay smoked-lens LEDs all around, but one went bad and I figured the rest were not long for this world.
I bought Rizoma Club turn signals (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-club-turn-signal) as well as the spacers (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-turn-signal-spacer?rrec=true&sku_id=1278517) and installed over the past two weekends. Far higher quality and much brighter. I bought the spacers, which are originally intended for bikes with full fairings to allow the signals room for clearance, in order to move the signals out a bit and give a bit more separation to them. Worked perfectly for my use case.
One note if you want to use these on your own bike: the front turn signal mount on US-spec bikes is too deep for the Rizoma post/nut combo, or at least not easily without taking off the entire headlight bucket and going in with a deep socket. As I have my headlight bucket at the correct angle for my headlight, I didn't want to do that. I was fortunate to have an OEM tall flyscreen mounted and there were two holes perfectly located to allow the signals to fit and mount easily.
Overall, I am very pleased with both the look and function of these high-end LEDs. With the headlight and the turn signals, I have not spent a sizable portion of the purchase price of the bike upgrading the lighting. This is something to keep in mind for future purchases of bikes - if LED-equipped as OEM (and that's something that is important to you), factor that in your purchasing decision.
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Friday, I finished the LED upgrade on my Interceptor. Originally I had cheap Ebay smoked-lens LEDs all around, but one went bad and I figured the rest were not long for this world.
I bought Rizoma Club turn signals (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-club-turn-signal) as well as the spacers (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-turn-signal-spacer?rrec=true&sku_id=1278517) and installed over the past two weekends. Far higher quality and much brighter. I bought the spacers, which are originally intended for bikes with full fairings to allow the signals room for clearance, in order to move the signals out a bit and give a bit more separation to them. Worked perfectly for my use case.
One note if you want to use these on your own bike: the front turn signal mount on US-spec bikes is too deep for the Rizoma post/nut combo, or at least not easily without taking off the entire headlight bucket and going in with a deep socket. As I have my headlight bucket at the correct angle for my headlight, I didn't want to do that. I was fortunate to have an OEM tall flyscreen mounted and there were two holes perfectly located to allow the signals to fit and mount easily.
Overall, I am very pleased with both the look and function of these high-end LEDs. With the headlight and the turn signals, I have not spent a sizable portion of the purchase price of the bike upgrading the lighting. This is something to keep in mind for future purchases of bikes - if LED-equipped as OEM (and that's something that is important to you), factor that in your purchasing decision.
Looks great! Hope to be able to see your blinkers next time :-)
Added right side pannier to carry essentials. Digging the classic look from SW-motech, but it did take over 2 months to arrive (due to freight delays).
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Overall, I am very pleased with both the look and function of these high-end LEDs. With the headlight and the turn signals, I have NOW spent a sizable portion of the purchase price of the bike upgrading the lighting.
I realized upon reading this that I made the classic "not" for "now" switch. Spell-check never catches it.
Point remains that I like LED lighting. I am hopeful that in less than 10 years all incandescent bulbs will have been phased out on new bikes. But I understand the appeal of incandescents for classic bikes, and I'm sure there will be bulbs still available for all you Lucas-loving folks out there. ;D
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i have the same rizoma club signals on my ducati. blends in very well and works great.
(https://i.imgur.com/V6BT0Tj.jpg)
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what did i do on my bike today.... my first 10,000 miles. still happy ;D
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New shoes day... think I got enough wear out of the old set ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/kJKCcjT/BT46-140-70.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/3fVrx5F/BT46-110-80.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/FHWLmsw/Front-wear.jpg)
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Added Marlin's clock, compass, and thermometer.
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Added Marlin's clock, compass, and thermometer.
What, no inclinometer.
Ciao
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Pro Tip: altimeter
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What, no inclinometer.
Ciao
IKR, how does he even ride it :)
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Let’s see, I got the bike delivered from the dealer Saturday, and yesterday I painted and swapped the front fender, painted the fender bracket black, added RE bar end mirrors and the black RE bar end caps. Swapped to a single seat, chopped the rear frame and installed the MK tail tidy. Also removed the pillion pegs and painted and installed the C Racer fairing. Then I took it up Mt Baldy.
(https://i.imgur.com/0CXm6UA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vyG8YCG.jpg)
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Added Marlin's clock, compass, and thermometer.
Nice. After all it IS a analog themed bike riding in a digital world.
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Let’s see, I got the bike delivered from the dealer Saturday, and yesterday I painted and swapped the front fender, painted the fender bracket black, added RE bar end mirrors and the black RE bar end caps. Swapped to a single seat, chopped the rear frame and installed the MK tail tidy. Also removed the pillion pegs and painted and installed the C Racer fairing. Then I took it up Mt Baldy.
(https://i.imgur.com/0CXm6UA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vyG8YCG.jpg)
Looks great! What are you doing for rear turn signals?
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I was servicing the bike today and decided to "satin finish" the rocker cover while I had it off. Not a big fan of polished alloy for the most part. looks a bit to much like chrome, in small doses only or for specific things it's ok. I'll get round to the engine side cases when I feel the urge. For those that are interested in that type of look, here it is.
Ciao
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tossed these puppies on finally! nice deep rumble. definitely louder than stock but not obnoxious to my ears. keeping baffles in for sure though.
saved 60% weight from stock and physically smaller. perfect for my needs. the finish goes well with the chrome too.
(https://i.imgur.com/HZ4hiui.jpg)
got them from forum member Dacvulcan!
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Along with Hitchcock headers they were too loud for me but I am glad they finally have been put to good use.
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tossed these puppies on finally! nice deep rumble. definitely louder than stock but not obnoxious to my ears. keeping baffles in for sure though.
saved 60% weight from stock and physically smaller. perfect for my needs. the finish goes well with the chrome too.
(https://i.imgur.com/HZ4hiui.jpg)
got them from forum member Dacvulcan!
Those look really nice.
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Those look really nice.
i definitely love the way they look! i wish i could 'feel' the weight savings more but i'll take what i can get.
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added a temporary mod to the back of my bike. went riding around all day like this and people were loving it. although one guy yelled at me 'hey what are you doing riding around with my wife?' in which i replied 'I'M BONING HER!'
(https://i.imgur.com/xIrtTfW.jpg)
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Brought the bike upstairs after a random plastic bag fused to the headers of my Stinger exhaust and turned out to be a little harder to remove than I expected. (A heat gun and some light steel wool did the trick.) When that was done I decided to attach the Baak front mudguard I bought last month along with the Hitchcock's 15mm risers kit. Now I have to replace the rear mudguard, which is cracked and secured to the taillight bracket by a couple of zip ties. I bought the Hitchcock's stainless version but want to bob it and paint it before I put it on... right after I chop the subframe and weld on the up-swept tail hoop I bought from Tuffside.
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New shoes day... think I got enough wear out of the old set ;D
(https://i.ibb.co/kJKCcjT/BT46-140-70.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/3fVrx5F/BT46-110-80.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/FHWLmsw/Front-wear.jpg)
Got your money's worth from those ones....
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Brought the bike upstairs after a random plastic bag fused to the headers of my Stinger exhaust and turned out to be a little harder to remove than I expected. (A heat gun and some light steel wool did the trick.) When that was done I decided to attach the Baak front mudguard I bought last month along with the Hitchcock's 15mm risers kit. Now I have to replace the rear mudguard, which is cracked and secured to the taillight bracket by a couple of zip ties. I bought the Hitchcock's stainless version but want to bob it and paint it before I put it on... right after I chop the subframe and weld on the up-swept tail hoop I bought from Tuffside.
Looking good. I think I’ve said it before, but I’m so envious of your setup. Pretty sweet to be able to bring your bike inside with you.
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Got your money's worth from those ones....
9k; 2k more than the Pirelli. Had so much sideband wear on the front it developed a decelaration wobble between 90-60kmph, which was a little entertaining the first time I encountered it riding hands free. Happy that's gone.
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added a temporary mod to the back of my bike. went riding around all day like this and people were loving it. although one guy yelled at me 'hey what are you doing riding around with my wife?' in which i replied 'I'M BONING HER!'
(https://i.imgur.com/xIrtTfW.jpg)
Thought you'd taken Mory for a spin- SORRY MORT.....Couldn't resist👍🤣
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Thought you'd taken Mory for a spin- SORRY MORT.....Couldn't resist👍🤣
I wish I was that skinny.
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I wish I was that skinny.
🤣🤣🤣🤣 Me Too😣
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Brought the bike upstairs after a random plastic bag fused to the headers of my Stinger exhaust and turned out to be a little harder to remove than I expected. (A heat gun and some light steel wool did the trick.) When that was done I decided to attach the Baak front mudguard I bought last month along with the Hitchcock's 15mm risers kit. Now I have to replace the rear mudguard, which is cracked and secured to the taillight bracket by a couple of zip ties. I bought the Hitchcock's stainless version but want to bob it and paint it before I put it on... right after I chop the subframe and weld on the up-swept tail hoop I bought from Tuffside.
How did the rear guard crack? Also, when you're done with that premium touring seat, I'd be interested in picking it up from you.
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I bought a brat seat from an outfit in Thailand, narrower than stock and tapering towards the back where it was almost entirely supported by the rear mudguard. The seat base had a lot of flex so when I put my weight on the back the mudguard tore away from the bolt that attaches it to the taillight bracket, leaving a hole in the plastic. I used a large washer to reattach it and bought the touring seat. Plastic being plastic, however, the hole only got bigger.
When I install the new tail hoop and find a brat seat I like, I’d be happy to sell you the touring seat for a good price. That is if you haven’t traded in your Orange Crush for an XSR900. 😜
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I reinstalled the DB killers into the AEW 102s.
Saturday I’d pulled them out because I’d ridden up to Paradise Dam in company with a Monster 750S.
That beast has the very ballsy note to it so once at the dam, I removed my obstructions. This made the GT sound much closer to the Ducati. I rode the Ducati for the fifty odd kilometres back to base and could hear the RE intermittently.
I left the killers out for the 400k return trip home, following the hilly and scenic route, back up the Divide to Ban Ban Springs before running south then South East back to Brisbane town.
Very quickly, within half an hour and thirty kilometres, I did notice the half-expected lack of torque when climbing. The GT made a lot of noise in the lower gears and also when rolling on in sixth gear with the acceleration not matching the din. I knew there and then the DBs were going back in, once home.
Driving through the villages enroute required judicious throttle applications, especially when passing the parked up Wallopers.
Due to the note, the RE turned heads like never before. A pack of lads in one town yelled out for rev bombs and, well, who’s going to deny them??
So it was more attention than I wanted and I can make enough noise with killers in when I need to.
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Put her on a scale today
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Put her on a scale today
jealous of the black rims!
i got a quote from multiple dealers to see how much the OE stock black rims are (my mr clean came with chrome rims), and it was insane $$$. definitely cheaper to remove and powder coat but i've no experience removing spokes and shit.
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jealous of the black rims!
i got a quote from multiple dealers to see how much the OE stock black rims are (my mr clean came with chrome rims), and it was insane $$$. definitely cheaper to remove and powder coat but i've no experience removing spokes and shit.
I sold my silver ones and got Black oem hubs . Stainless spokes and Excel takasago rims .
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Cleaned it for the first time in a couple months. It was the first time I ever used a waterless cleaning system and I have to say I'm impressed.
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Washed it!
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Cleaned it for the first time in a couple months. It was the first time I ever used a waterless cleaning system and I have to say I'm impressed.
curious how many wipes did you use for the whole bike?
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curious how many wipes did you use for the whole bike?
Only 2
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Got sort of lost and ended up on a gravel road.
Activated my rear ABS a couple times & it seemed to work. ;D
Set my suspension back to zero.
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I just fitted the second generation touring seat. I got it mostly because I like the look of it as after the first decent ride where I felt the stock seat was a bit uncomfortable it’s been fine ever since.
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I just fitted the second generation touring seat. I got it mostly because I like the look of it as after the first decent ride where I felt the stock seat was a bit uncomfortable it’s been fine ever since.
Looking sharp.
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Did nothing TO the bike, but did something FOR the bike. Had to purchase some Bridgetone BT46's online because nobody here carried them.
Waiting for them to come from Germany now....
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Did nothing TO the bike, but did something FOR the bike. Had to purchase some Bridgetone BT46's online because nobody here carried them.
Waiting for them to come from Germany now....
Good choice. They're the 650's top mod.
By that I mean they actually make a discernable difference to the quality of the ride.
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Brushed ACF around spoke holes on hub flanges to prevent corosion and paint bubbling. Maybe just a one off issue for Clarky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvWuxwllQvI) but it's as good as doodling if you have to spend time on the phone 😉
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Brushed ACF around spoke holes on hub flanges to prevent corosion and paint bubbling. Maybe just a one off issue for Clarky (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvWuxwllQvI) but it's as good as doodling if you have to spend time on the phone 😉
Strange, that paint is the toughest stuff I've ever seen. I removed it from my rear light housing and fork brace so I could satin finish the alloy. I'm pretty experienced at paint stripping and removal on everything from Jet aircraft to car and bike engines but I had to use the glass bead blaster and a scotchbrite mop in my pneumatic porting tool to remove it. His must be a faulty coating in which case it will be warranty, no question.
Ciao
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painted the grey/silver/whatever front mudguard and mounting piece to matte black
(https://i.imgur.com/lMpFaxe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O3XDGPJ.jpg)
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painted the grey/silver/whatever front mudguard and mounting piece to matte black
(https://i.imgur.com/lMpFaxe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O3XDGPJ.jpg)
Very cool
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Nothing 'done' to the bike, but loads of bits on route.
Set of black ally indicators/front fork 10mm compression spacers/brass front fender 15mm lift kit/40mm drop adjustable footpeg kit.
Plus bike goes in for its first service tomorrow.
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Fitted bar end mirrors, and fuel tank trim.
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Took my baby to an advanced riding course in the Honda Institute for Safety today.
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Prepared the Interceptor for a long wintersleep... ;)
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Pulled the fork tubes off, installed gaiters, changed the brake pads to sintered ones, changed headlight bracket.
That's the short version. The longer and more accurate version involves a lot more cussing.
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Pulled the fork tubes off, installed gaiters, changed the brake pads to sintered ones, changed headlight bracket.
Which headlight bracket?
That's the short version. The longer and more accurate version involves a lot more cussing.
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eBay special from FXCNC. It's actually really nice looking in person, though.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144017218303?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=443306601318&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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Prepared the Interceptor for a long wintersleep... ;)
Cover:
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Cover:
Covers are tricky - I had a lovely Ryda fleece lined waterproof (with vents) on my bike in a concrete floored garage and the bike was getting condensation on it when temps dropped. Changed to a stretchy dust cover and placed carpet square under the bike - bike totally dry now.
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It's a breathable inside only cover, no worries...
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Finished my front end project today, buttoned it all up, changed the rear brake pads to sintered, cleaned the chain and have it sitting in driveway waiting for my wife to get home and watch my boys so I can take it for a quick spin to make sure everything's working ok.
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Apart from several rides in the beautiful central Texas weather, I wrapped my exhaust pipes with black DEI fiberglass wrap, and installed some new emgo style black slip-ons. I wanted a couple super cheap mufflers to play with before deciding what I really want for long term, but these little things are better than I thought they'd be. They may stick around for quite a while!
I'm toying with installing an m.unit next. Revival Motorcycles, here in Austin, has a killer early black Friday deal going on them. Any of you all have any experience installing one on a 650? They installed one on their custom desert racer a year or so ago. Brings some nifty electronic upgrades to the bike (built in alarm, keyless start w/phone, auto-off signals, ability to add push button controls.) Could be fun!
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When I was replacing all the plastic components on my handlebars I contemplated installing an M-Unit blue, and may eventually. The M-Unit is mainly intended for custom bikes and restorations but I have no problem with the idea of installing it on a new motorcycle. In my case I was so happy with the controls I found on eBay I decided to stick with them rather than drop a lot of money on an entire M-Unit setup. I think what I've done suits a vintage style bike better than a full set of momentary switches.
Your GT looks amazing.
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When I was replacing all the plastic components on my handlebars I contemplated installing an M-Unit blue, and may eventually. The M-Unit is mainly intended for custom bikes and restorations but I have no problem with the idea of installing it on a new motorcycle. In my case I was so happy with the controls I found on eBay I decided to stick with them rather than drop a lot of money on an entire M-Unit setup. I think what I've done suits a vintage style bike better than a full set of momentary switches.
Your GT looks amazing.
Thanks, Blazes! Your controls look slick! Big improvement over the stock controls. I've been wanting to get rid of the plastic pieces, too, and I really like the minimalist look of the momentary switches. If I go the m-unit route, I'll be sure to post some pics along the way for anyone interested in seeing what goes into a complete install. I've been talking with one of the Revival guys, and hope to pick their brain a bit during their next event.
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I’ve watched a lot of their YouTube videos, especially the instructional ones. I’d be very interested in hearing how the M-Unit interfaces with the rest of the electrical system. And I’d love to see how it looks on a GT or interceptor.
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Put the BT46's on. Haven't been able to ride yet, though.
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Received a GT fuel tank from a fellow member for my 5.3 Project.
First up is to build a bench jig so as to maintain shape during the cutting welding.
Actually, first up should be to harness the smart kids from the "Volume of Odd Shapes Department" just to make sure I have the math correct to reach 5.3 gal.
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Received a GT fuel tank from a fellow member for my 5.3 Project.
First up is to build a bench jig so as to maintain shape during the cutting welding.
Actually, first up should be to harness the smart kids from the "Volume of Odd Shapes Department" just to make sure I have the math correct to reach 5.3 gal.
Excellent. Will be interesting to see this dromedary taking shape...
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Fitted Hagon shrouded shocks and front fork preload spacers yesterday.
Did about 50 miles this morning in the rain on 'A', 'B' and unclassified roads to try over a variety of surfaces, from potholed/spot repairs on country lanes to reasonably surfaced dual carriageways and everything in between. I'm very surprised at the improvement in the bike, the front feels more solid and stable over potholed surfaces, and the Hagons iron out undulations where the original shocks would have bounced a bit.
My theory up until now was that those who had spent their cash on suspension changes were bragging about them to justify the cost. Now I'm doing the bragging - and not to justify what I've spent. There's an immediate and obvious improvement in the bike - and extra riding pleasure - which is worth the extra cost.
What did it cost? £200 for the shrouded Hagons and £25 for the machined 6mm spacers from Graham at rebrassbling@gmail.com So not a huge amount to spend in relation to the improvement in the suspension department. I'm a happy camper!
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Fitted Hagon shrouded shocks and front fork preload spacers yesterday.
Did about 50 miles this morning in the rain on 'A', 'B' and unclassified roads to try over a variety of surfaces, from potholed/spot repairs on country lanes to reasonably surfaced dual carriageways and everything in between. I'm very surprised at the improvement in the bike, the front feels more solid and stable over potholed surfaces, and the Hagons iron out undulations where the original shocks would have bounced a bit.
My theory up until now was that those who had spent their cash on suspension changes were bragging about them to justify the cost. Now I'm doing the bragging - and not to justify what I've spent. There's an immediate and obvious improvement in the bike - and extra riding pleasure - which is worth the extra cost.
What did it cost? £200 for the shrouded Hagons and £25 for the machined 6mm spacers from Graham at rebrassbling@gmail.com So not a huge amount to spend in relation to the improvement in the suspension department. I'm a happy camper!
Careful, it’s a slippery slope - next you’ll be drilling your dampers, fitting valve emulators and experimenting with different tyre profiles.
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When I first ordered my GT, i had a few mods I intended to do. Its taken a couple of months to complete, but today finished my short list.
Earlier this week I got the stripes on the seat cowl and today I fitted the LED headlight. I spent some time comparing lights and picked this one with a ‘minus’ & halo ring. I was thrilled to watch the video about the Royal Enfield team making a custom GT and seeing the exact light on their bike!
Mods so far: tall flyscreen, compact engine guard, bar end mirror, center stand & sump guard, all Royal Enfield brand. Non Royal Enfield stuff: Stem clock, additional leds for indicators (too small to see this these photos) & LED headlights.
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When I first ordered my GT, i had a few mods I intended to do. Its taken a couple of months to complete, but today finished my short list.
Earlier this week I got the stripes on the seat cowl and today I fitted the LED headlight. I spent some time comparing lights and picked this one with a ‘minus’ & halo ring. I was thrilled to watch the video about the Royal Enfield team making a custom GT and seeing the exact light on their bike!
Mods so far: tall flyscreen, compact engine guard, bar end mirror, center stand & sump guard, all Royal Enfield brand. Non Royal Enfield stuff: Stem clock, additional leds for indicators (too small to see this these photos) & LED headlights.
VERY nice looking bike! Any plans for exhaust mod?
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VERY nice looking bike! Any plans for exhaust mod?
I would very much like a lighter exhaust, but unlike the majority here I don’t want the bike any louder. So currently I’m looking at options.
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hey guys from today evening my fuel gauge is not working ,it started blinking with all bars on and off. some one help me with this , is this a serious issue ?
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Got the fairing and seat cowl chrome wrapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/NY3sQsr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JV8Td5G.jpg)
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Got the fairing and seat cowl chrome wrapped.
Very nice!! What fairing is that? Do you have a link? C-racer??? What does it cost to wrap a fairing? I'm in the hunt for a fairing and am deciding if I should have it painted or possibly wrap it.
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Very nice!! What fairing is that? Do you have a link? C-racer???
+1
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Very nice!! What fairing is that? Do you have a link? C-racer??? What does it cost to wrap a fairing? I'm in the hunt for a fairing and am deciding if I should have it painted or possibly wrap it.
Yeah, it’s C Racer. Cost about 400 to do it. Chrome is extra expensive though.
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Yeah, it’s C Racer. Cost about 400 to do it. Chrome is extra expensive though.
Geez _ that chrome wrap looks great.
Any special instructions for the "care and feeding" of the chrome? Any estimated life span?
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Yeah, it’s C Racer. Cost about 400 to do it. Chrome is extra expensive though.
Is it this one? “ Universal Mask No1 MCR1”
https://c-racer.com/store/universal-parts/masks/universal-mask-no1-mcr1.html
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hey guys from today evening my fuel gauge is not working ,it started blinking with all bars on and off. some one help me with this , is this a serious issue ?
Check the connector under the tank (green one, I believe). I had the same problem after I checked valve clearances. Apparently it's fairly easy to think it is re-connected, but it isn't fully engaged.
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Is it this one? “ Universal Mask No1 MCR1”
https://c-racer.com/store/universal-parts/masks/universal-mask-no1-mcr1.html
https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/cafe-racer-front-fairing-for-royal-enfield-contine.html
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FYI -- I contacted c-racer and their US distributor is https://www.bellissimoto.com I was thinking of getting one because the fit looks so good, shipping to Canada was close to $100 though so it might have to wait until we go to Vegas again as thats where they are.
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FYI -- I contacted c-racer and their US distributor is https://www.bellissimoto.com I was thinking of getting one because the fit looks so good, shipping to Canada was close to $100 though so it might have to wait until we go to Vegas again as thats where they are.
I didnt find it on that site, but their prices seem kind of insane. 1400 bucks for a pair of shocks?
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Ruddigger, how are those side panel bags? They look great and would seem to provide a little carry space. How do they work for you?
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Ruddigger, how are those side panel bags? They look great and would seem to provide a little carry space. How do they work for you?
Not much space, but good enough to hold my gloves and a few tools. Mostly I like the way they hide the plastic covers.
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Not much space, but good enough to hold my gloves and a few tools. Mostly I like the way they hide the plastic covers.
👍🏻
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Got the fairing and seat cowl chrome wrapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/NY3sQsr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JV8Td5G.jpg)
The black & gold treatment to the faring are spot on. Looks great.
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Got the fairing and seat cowl chrome wrapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/NY3sQsr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JV8Td5G.jpg)
Thx for posting the images as I was considering wrapping just the seat cowl (the one fitted to double seat & leave solo one black) and wondered what the result would be👍👍👍👍
Will be getting a price😀
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Thx for posting the images as I was considering wrapping just the seat cowl (the one fitted to double seat & leave solo one black) and wondered what the result would be👍👍👍👍
Will be getting a price😀
Cool. I really wanted to go with a silver nitrate mirror chrome, it looks way better than vinyl, but I couldnt find a place to do it. I almost bought a kit to try and do it myself, but the kit was over 500 bucks and I didnt want to risk screwing it up. I may still do it in the future.
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I didnt find it on that site, but their prices seem kind of insane. 1400 bucks for a pair of shocks?
They don't list C-racer stuff on their site, I think because they are more of a "Euro snob Ducati type shop" hence the outrageous prices, but they can get anything on the C-racer site according to C-racer, shipping within the US is free I think as well.
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They don't list C-racer stuff on their site, I think because they are more of a "Euro snob Ducati type shop" hence the outrageous prices, but they can get anything on the C-racer site according to C-racer, shipping within the US is free I think as well.
Not sure what happened to your link but it worked for me and I ordered the fairing. Yes it was more expensive than other similar fairings, but it comes with install brackets designed to fit the GT, something the others don’t and well worth the extra $.
Here is their main site, you can use the hamburger menu to select bike specific parts, Royal Enfield is a choice.
https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/the-bike/
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New chain day..
(https://i.ibb.co/3cRb1zP/IMG-8488.jpg)
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New chain day..
(https://i.ibb.co/3cRb1zP/IMG-8488.jpg)
Pretty!
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Installed China’s finest short levers. And the small engine guards. And polished the engine case.
(https://i.imgur.com/o4WlrAR.jpg)
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Those look identical to the levers I bought from Hitchcock's. I'm sure there's a reference to that in a thread somewhere.
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Those look identical to the levers I bought from Hitchcock's. I'm sure there's a reference to that in a thread somewhere.
Yeah, it's been pointed out that both Hitchcock's and TEC sell some rebranded Chinese parts.
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Those look identical to the levers I bought from Hitchcock's. I'm sure there's a reference to that in a thread somewhere.
Tecbikeparts sells the same ones too.
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Tecbikeparts sells the same ones too.
Mine are from "FXCNC" on eBay. They're identical. I've seen them under a dozen other names as well. I'm sure they're all made in the same Shenzhen factory.
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Mine are from "FXCNC" on eBay. They're identical. I've seen them under a dozen other names as well. I'm sure they're all made in the same Shenzhen factory.
Yup, thats what I got. 5 bucks cheaper on AliExpress than ebay.
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Now if only I could find Baak parts on AliExpress. And maybe an 865 kit.
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Yup, thats what I got. 5 bucks cheaper on AliExpress than ebay.
And available in a multitude of color options!
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Installed China’s finest short levers. And the small engine guards. And polished the engine case.
(https://i.imgur.com/o4WlrAR.jpg)
did you find any issues with fitment? i bought, presumably, the same ones. The brake lever felt fine, but the clutch lever had a lot of up and down play.
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did you find any issues with fitment? i bought, presumably, the same ones. The brake lever felt fine, but the clutch lever had a lot of up and down play.
Yep, all those style levers have the same play on the clutch pivot (I have Tec ones). I put a thin brass washer on the pivot as a shim and it eliminated the problem completely.
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Yep, all those style levers have the same play on the clutch pivot (I have Tec ones). I put a thin brass washer on the pivot as a shim and it eliminated the problem completely.
Thats partly because they are too cheap arsed to bush the lever pivots. Don't get me wrong they are great value these Chinese levers and I have them fitted to 5 motorcycles currently but I'd happily pay 50% more for them to have properly bushed pivots.
Of course all these levers are Chinese re brands. Is anyone surprised by that? Very few accessory outlets have their own bespoke components and even when they do they tend to be made in China which isn't necessarily a bad thing.
The other thing to watch for is the adjuster detent ball and spring tend to rust so pull the levers apart and apply some waterproof grease or when you go to adjust them after a few wet rides you'll find the adjuster frozen.
Ciao
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Yep, all those style levers have the same play on the clutch pivot (I have Tec ones). I put a thin brass washer on the pivot as a shim and it eliminated the problem completely.
Do you remember what size washer? I'd like to give that a shot but I'd particularly enjoy not having to take the lever apart to measure.
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Do you remember what size washer? I'd like to give that a shot but I'd particularly enjoy not having to take the lever apart to measure.
No sorry, it was in a jar of washers and just happened to be a perfect fit.
It's super easy to check the size - just pop the nylock nut off and take the pivot bolt out, you can leave the lever in the perch. If you find the correct diameter brass washer is a bit too thick; just sand it down to right thickness on a sheet of sandpaper - brass is soft. Slide the washer on top of the lever between it and the perch. Regrease the bolt and pop it back in. Very satisfying result for little effort.
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No sorry, it was in a jar of washers and just happened to be a perfect fit.
It's super easy to check the size - just pop the nylock nut off and take the pivot bolt out, you can leave the lever in the perch. If you find the correct diameter brass washer is a bit too thick; just sand it down to right thickness on a sheet of sandpaper - brass is soft. Slide the washer on top of the lever between it and the perch. Regrease the bolt and pop it back in. Very satisfying result for little effort.
Thanks, I'll give it a shot
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did you find any issues with fitment? i bought, presumably, the same ones. The brake lever felt fine, but the clutch lever had a lot of up and down play.
It has just as much slop in it as the stock lever had. It doesn’t bother me.
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It has just as much slop in it as the stock lever had. It doesn’t bother me.
+1. It never occurred to me until I read about it here.
These are relaxing bikes. We should relax.
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+1. It never occurred to me until I read about it here.
These are relaxing bikes. We should relax.
Yep, I've kept the original levers which I can easily grab whith my tyrefitter's hands, relax ... ;D ;D
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Ordered up a c-racer fairing today!! They've got their Black Friday sale on 20% off fairings.. https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/the-bike/
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Ordered up a c-racer fairing today!! They've got their Black Friday sale on 20% off fairings.. https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/the-bike/
Nice. Going to paint it or wrap it?
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Nice. Going to paint it or wrap it?
I think I'll try my hand at painting it my GT is an Ice Queen, if I mess it up then I'll go the wrap route!!
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Got my sump guard back from the powder coater.
Rock’in the Red!
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Got my sump guard back from the powder coater.
Rock’in the Red!
That’s a nice touch.
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Ordered up a c-racer fairing today!! They've got their Black Friday sale on 20% off fairings.. https://www.caferacerwebshop.com/en/the-bike/
Mine arrived and is currently at the paint shop for a coat of rocker red, tape strips to match tank and then a clear coat. Can’t wait to get it installed.
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Got my sump guard back from the powder coater.
Rock’in the Red!
Ready to look stone chipped to hell within 3000klms. Have you never owned a fully faired bike and seen what the chin piece ends up looking like?
Ciao
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Ready to look stone chipped to hell within 3000klms. Have you never owned a fully faired bike and seen what the chin piece ends up looking like?
Ciao
I’ve had chin fairings before. They fair quite well if you stay on paved roads. And we have some very nicely paved roads in North Texas.
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I’ve had chin fairings before. They fair quite well if you stay on paved roads. And we have some very nicely paved roads in North Texas.
Well good luck with it. I ride on paved roads here as well and I consider the crankcase guard/bash plate a sacrificial piece which it will be for sure. I want exactly what the original on mine is, an aluminium anodised cover so when it gets the inevitable stone damage it won't be too obvious and will keep stone damage and road crud off the engine crankcases.
Ciao
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I sanded mine down as it was looking like the surface of the moon, and chucked some silver Hammerite on it to disguise the sanding a little
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Beaut Day in Central Vic , so went for a ride .
It’s almost staring to feel like summer !
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I sanded mine down as it was looking like the surface of the moon, and chucked some silver Hammerite on it to disguise the sanding a little
Do you have the fender (mudguard) extender on your front wheel?
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Do you have the fender (mudguard) extender on your front wheel?
I do, it’s a very functional protector. I don’t ride gravel roads, but most of our roads are chip seal so that probably contributes to it.
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I do, it’s a very functional protector. I don’t ride gravel roads, but most of our roads are chip seal so that probably contributes to it.
Yep I left mine on too. Totally functional and almost invisible.
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Mine arrived and is currently at the paint shop for a coat of rocker red, tape strips to match tank and then a clear coat. Can’t wait to get it installed.
Waiting impatiently for the install pics. I hadn’t seen anyone else with this fairing before I got it.
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Stainless front, and painted the engine case writing. Used Duplicolor gloss black caliper paint, followed Stew. Fillinghams method.
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Stainless front, and painted the engine case writing. Used Duplicolor gloss black caliper paint, followed Stew. Fillinghams method.
Looks great. Was the lettering easy? It does not look hard on Uncle Stu’s video.
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The lettering IS easy. Duplicolor have 2 different lots of advice for using the paint..one said wait 5 mins between coats, the other 20. I did the 5 mins wait, but now would do about 15 to 20 wait to let the paint set more. after 5 mins it was really tacky and hard to recoat smoothly. in fact if you get really close, its not a real smooth finish. I used a square tip brush about 4mm wide. I started to polish off the paint with 2500 grit, waste of time. didn't budge it. So instead of cuttin corners, just followed Stews advice and it worked fine. Hardest part? Cleaning the lettering, tooth brush soapy water, brake cleaner and finally a sharp point with a cloth on the end to "dig" out the dirt remaining. Took ages. For polishing, cordless drill with a soft buffing wheel (lazy option). A couple of rides later, no dramas at all.
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Anybody got a link to Fillinghams video / instructions please?
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Oh one last thing. I cut corners...again..to minimise clean up I was careful with the paint. Don't be. Like Stew, fill em up or the "walls" of the letters won't be painted and it stands out.
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Oh one last thing. I cut corners...again..to minimise clean up I was careful with the paint. Don't be. Like Stew, fill em up or the "walls" of the letters won't be painted and it stands out.
Found it :D
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Got my sump guard back from the powder coater.
@JessHerbst, you're in the Austin area, right? Who do you use for powder coating?
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@JessHerbst, you're in the Austin area, right? Who do you use for powder coating?
Sorry not Austin, I’m north & east of DFW. I used a local powder coat shop in McKinney, Crosslink Powder Coating Corp.
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@JessHerbst Okay, thanks! I'm up in the DFW area quite a bit, too, but Austin is home.
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Wolfmansbrother, its a bit of a drive from Austin to McKinney! I just googled ‘Powder cost MCKinney’ and found this place. They did a great job, but I’m sure Austin has some good places.
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Stainless front, and painted the engine case writing. Used Duplicolor gloss black caliper paint, followed Stew. Fillinghams method.
Nice! Is that a HCM fender? Alloy or polished steel?
Been holding off on buying these as the rear one looked rather large but may need to reconsider. Thanks.
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Here's another method to paint the letters, easier than Stu's https://youtu.be/bHCbbwh5-C8
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Oil temperature gauge, looks good.
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Totally pointless.
Ciao
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Oil temperature gauge, looks good.
I have the same, but from German manufacturer RR ( Motorsport Ries).
The same is on my Ducati Mille for years, this summer I noticed the Interceptor is running hotter than the Duc.
90 degrees Celcius for the Interceptor, the MHR hardly exceeds 80 degrees...
On both bikes it takes about 20-30km's to reach operating temps, though...!!
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Totally pointless.
Ciao
I’d be concerned that the probe would vibrate off and fall in/ get mashed into something…
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I’d be concerned that the probe would vibrate off and fall in/ get mashed into something…
It's just a piece of useless bling for the navel gazers. What possible utility does it have apart from another thing to fail. Guzzi people fit oil pressure gauges, why? Just another thing to sweat over and sweat about every psi change they do.
Ciao
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Hey gss
Its the stainless version, from Hitchcock's. Over priced, unnecessary....but looks good. Fits OK, perhaps a little more gap at the rear. Doesn't fit the brace as perfect as the plastic one, otherwise matches the polished forks and chrome tank nicely.
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The lettering IS easy. Duplicolor have 2 different lots of advice for using the paint..one said wait 5 mins between coats, the other 20. I did the 5 mins wait, but now would do about 15 to 20 wait to let the paint set more. after 5 mins it was really tacky and hard to recoat smoothly. in fact if you get really close, its not a real smooth finish. I used a square tip brush about 4mm wide. I started to polish off the paint with 2500 grit, waste of time. didn't budge it. So instead of cuttin corners, just followed Stews advice and it worked fine. Hardest part? Cleaning the lettering, tooth brush soapy water, brake cleaner and finally a sharp point with a cloth on the end to "dig" out the dirt remaining. Took ages. For polishing, cordless drill with a soft buffing wheel (lazy option). A couple of rides later, no dramas at all.
I was wondering about spraying it and then simply wiping across it?
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I have the same, but from German manufacturer RR ( Motorsport Ries).
The same is on my Ducati Mille for years, this summer I noticed the Interceptor is running hotter than the Duc.
90 degrees Celcius for the Interceptor, the MHR hardly exceeds 80 degrees...
On both bikes it takes about 20-30km's to reach operating temps, though...!!
Link: https://www.rr-motorsport-ries.de/motorrad/produkt.htm
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It's just a piece of useless bling for the navel gazers. What possible utility does it have apart from another thing to fail. Guzzi people fit oil pressure gauges, why? Just another thing to sweat over and sweat about every psi change they do.
Well it cost only 35 €, and may be is pointless, but I like, Tks. for your opinión
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I like mine too...!!
(So many things in life are pointless.... :P).
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You forget YOUR Not allowed to do what YOU want to do on YOUR BIKE - you must listen to the those who know everything 🤔😣
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There is a vid of a bloke spray painting the letters. Guess a google search will find it for you Seemed to work fine. You could use the brush and wipe off as you go as well. I just thought Stews results looked good so that's the way I went. All in all an easy project
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There is a vid of a bloke spray painting the letters. Guess a google search will find it for you Seemed to work fine. You could use the brush and wipe off as you go as well. I just thought Stews results looked good so that's the way I went. All in all an easy project
The spray method is shown in one of the other threads.... painting is quicker, but lots of masking so........
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You forget YOUR Not allowed to do what YOU want to do on YOUR BIKE - you must listen to the those who know everything 🤔😣
You could fit ape hangers to your bike as well but it doesn't mean it's a good idea. A counterpoint of view is what actually makes forums useful as a source of technical information for those wanting to lean things. My opinions and experience are for those people, you know, the ones that actually rationalise things technically. It's not for the "bling merchants"
Ciao
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You could fit ape hangers to your bike as well but it doesn't mean it's a good idea. A counterpoint of view is what actually makes forums useful as a source of technical information for those wanting to lean things. My opinions and experience are for those people, you know, the ones that actually rationalise things technically. It's not for the "bling merchants"
Ciao
And as you KEEP reminding us your racing skill, knowledge, and aero engineering experience is SO VAST we should all bow to it....even when when it's about others people's bikes NOT YOURS, and at times in an insulting and belittling way,
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Hey gss
Its the stainless version, from Hitchcock's. Over priced, unnecessary....but looks good. Fits OK, perhaps a little more gap at the rear. Doesn't fit the brace as perfect as the plastic one, otherwise matches the polished forks and chrome tank nicely.
Thank you! I almost purchased the stainless a few months ago, but held off as the rear one looked really large…..and it was as you state “overpriced and unnecessary” :)
Will take another look as I just bought an unnecessary chrome fuel tank so that the original orange tank can take up scarce space in my garage :D
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Whilst I would like the stainless rear, I will put some money toward the rear lights one of theses days. I think I will paint the rear black, just to hide it a bit. Next up is removing the tank badges and putting on black stickers, like the Mr Clean GT.
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(http://)Hi
I fitted the cooperb fork adaptors off ebay to the top of the forks today .
Easy job and ive attached some photos , its far more comfy on the back now when riding .
All you do is take off the top triple tree and headlight bolts ,move the clipons and refit .
Cheers
Dave from Scotland
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Pointless 😹😹😹😹😹🙀
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(https://i.postimg.cc/PLtJfhMN/IMG-20211206-141408.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLtJfhMN)
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No pics but I installed a ST2 brake module. Also installing the ST2 turn signal module.
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No pics but I installed a ST2 brake module. Also installing the ST2 turn signal module.
I tried the ‘compatibility’ check on their website and could not find Royal Enfield in their list. What am I missing?
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Not to my bike but for it/ us...
New matching lid in BE colorway, well, almost; safety bling, if that's not oxymoronic.
Looking forward to testing it on the weekend 🤠🥰🤗
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Not to my bike but for it/ us...
New matching lid in BE colorway, well, almost; safety bling, if that's not oxymoronic.
Looking forward to testing it on the weekend 🤠🥰🤗
Nice hat!
Now to accommodate the green, white and red coloured band on the bottom you'll have to get an Italian bike. :)
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Nice hat!
Now to accommodate the green, white and red coloured band on the bottom you'll have to get an Italian bike. :)
Yes, I've been wondering how to construe that flash of green, in particular. The simple inty is a keeper, a satisfying hobby and ride sufficient for this middle age, this lifetime, so no italian bikes in my future, which is not to say it can't reflect their racing spirit 😉 Alternatively, it's a nod to the subcontinent's tricolor flag and national pride in the fertile rebirth of it's motorcycle industry. I hope it doesn't reflect any feelings of green-eyed envy in onlookers, but so far it seems to inspire only sentimental and sympathetic joy. Worst case, in dark and anxious hours, I fear being haunted by a green wash, calling hypocrite sell-out and BS to whatever environmental cred I imagined after a lifetime of peddling about burning fat, eschewing fossils. You'd think a lid purchase would be simple, but this one needs therapy and/ or helmets anonymous 😕
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You'd think a lid purchase would be simple, but this one needs therapy and / or helmets anonymous 😕
There's a meeting of "Helmets Anon" every Friday locally, but if in trouble call your sponsor. :)
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There's a meeting of "Helmets Anon" every Friday locally, but if in trouble call your sponsor. :)
😂🤣 Thanks matey, will do.
Impressed by it's quietness on ride to work this morning - definitely a step up from the K3.
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😂🤣 Thanks matey, will do.
Impressed by it's quietness on ride to work this morning - definitely a step up from the K3.
I happen to know it wasn't raining in your location this morning. What happened to you and your bicycle saving the earth? ;)
Or did you wear the new lid on your bicycle, if so photos required! ;) :D ;D
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Rode my GT to doctor appointment on a cool morning the other day (4th ride since surgery on 9/13/21). The Airflow seat cover I finally received and installed kept my butt almost too cool for comfort. Will remove for any winter rides in the future and look forward to next spring and summer to see how it cools when temps are up. Although it was 81F on 12/16/21.
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Hi,
New member to the forum and (technically) haven't done anything today, as my Sunset Strip Interceptor delivery date has now been pushed out to next year.
Good news is, it will be delivered with DNA filter, Verex 2 x 2 polished headers and muffler system, GT touring seat and bar end mirrors.
Sitting in the wings, waiting to be fitted; Ikon rear shocks, Ikon progressive front springs, Hitchcock Precision black oil cooler guard, red seat cowl, RE brake master cylinder cap, RE short flyscreen, P700 headlight and a few other bits and pieces.
Will put photos up once it arrives.
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change of turn signal long stems for short stems, how about? not much difference is appreciated, in short, nice time working on it
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change of turn signal long stems for short stems, how about? not much difference is appreciated, in short, nice time working on it
Much neater units. They look great
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Much neater units. They look great
Tks a lot my friend. 😻😻😻
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The shorter indicators look better.
Carbon fibre....noooooo.
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Prayed that they’ll write her
off and not repair her!
She’s been with another man, I don’t want to countenance the possibility of a big knock triggering problems down the line that would be disputed between accident repairs and warranty . She’s been a perfect steed for 2 years, not a problem other than cracked gauge glasses, which were immediately repaired. Honestly, flawless bike. I read with trepidation the issues that some have had, and the prospect horrifies me. Bummer.
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Prayed that they’ll write her
off and not repair her!
She’s been with another man, I don’t want to countenance the possibility of a big knock triggering problems down the line that would be disputed between accident repairs and warranty . She’s been a perfect steed for 2 years, not a problem other than cracked gauge glasses, which were immediately repaired. Honestly, flawless bike. I read with trepidation the issues that some have had, and the prospect horrifies me. Bummer.
Fingers crossed for you🤔
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Hoping you get a brand new bike that is just as reliable. I have never been a fan of significantly repaired bikes or cars, there is always that lingering doubt that the repairers missed something.
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Prayed that they’ll write her
off and not repair her!
She’s been with another man, I don’t want to countenance the possibility of a big knock triggering problems down the line that would be disputed between accident repairs and warranty . She’s been a perfect steed for 2 years, not a problem other than cracked gauge glasses, which were immediately repaired. Honestly, flawless bike. I read with trepidation the issues that some have had, and the prospect horrifies me. Bummer.
Steve, either way it ends up, you'll be okay. Made by man, repaired by man.
If it will get repaired your duty is to enforce your rights and select where it gets fixed and by whom. You have been around long enough to know how to interview a repairman. Even if the choice isn't just down the street from you.
I learned some years ago that every part that gets put on a C-5 plane (strategic-air-command) did not arrive straight from the factory. It was first "flown" on a test plane. That is to say everything that goes on is a "used part".
When done right, it will be as good and maybe better that an assembly line bike.
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Got word yesterday that the ‘ol gal is indeed being repaired, not written off! Guess I’ll have to keep an eye on her for a while to ensure she’s up to scratch….
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Got word yesterday that the ‘ol gal is indeed being repaired, not written off! Guess I’ll have to keep an eye on her for a while to ensure she’s up to scratch….
Don't know about there. Here we get to choose who repairs it and to examine it before the repairs begin. It falls under our consumer protection laws.
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Don't know about there. Here we get to choose who repairs it and to examine it before the repairs begin. It falls under our consumer protection laws.
I’m more concerned about the invisible stuff
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I’m more concerned about the invisible stuff
To quote Pauline, "Please explain?" What is this "invisible stuff" you are concerned about?
I have choice of repairer included in all of my auto insurance and know who the good operators are in my town.
What I'm suggesting is, if you take an active roll in the process it will be fine. If you leave it up to your insurance company to arrange everything then the lowest tender drama may unfold.
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I’m more concerned about the invisible stuff
That is my point exactly. You don't want just a "body shop". You want a shop that is capable to measure a frame for straightness and straighten it if needed. Chances are somebody has declared it straight. We have a guy around here who works on race bikes and write-off bikes. I bet you do too. Make sure that anything that spins, is true. Those front forks should be checked and maybe serviced (upgraded).
Then you get to the scratch and dent isle.
You can even interview the repair shops. My point is you need not be a passive participant.
There is no reason the bike can't end up better than new.
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Don't know about there. Here we get to choose who repairs it and to examine it before the repairs begin. It falls under our consumer protection laws.
Over here it's very much about the Insurance Companies, some will only allow THIER Chosen repairers, others more choice where you can nominate, but sometimes it's in-between that you can nominate BUT they will only pay up to what their chosen one would have charged.
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To quote Pauline, "Please explain?" What is this "invisible stuff" you are concerned about?
I have choice of repairer included in all of my auto insurance and know who the good operators are in my town.
What I'm suggesting is, if you take an active roll in the process it will be fine. If you leave it up to your insurance company to arrange everything then the lowest tender drama may unfold.
Minor mis-alignments that aren’t immediately noticeable, bushes/ bearings that got shunted in directions they weren’t supposed to go in, little dislodgements of bits, anything that my fantastical imagination can contrive. It was a helluva whack and I’m genuinely surprised that the apparent damage is so unremarkable. It was enough to break the instrument glasses with no contact to them.
Which alarms me.
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I agree about the worry element, will they check for cracked welds, alignment of the frame, steering head bearings or even fork straightness. Best of luck that you get an OCD repairer.
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Picked up my Interceptor from the upholsterer today. With the new tail hoop and shorter rear fender I had to mount the license plate on the side as a temporary fix until I find an appropriate holder. (That's a modified Baak stainless steel rear fender and Motone Customs Eldorado taillight and bracket.) After I repair the dent in the tank it'll be time for some custom paintwork then I'll be finished, more or less.
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That looks great, Boylan.
I dyed my leather seat and grips to a darker reddish brown.
(https://i.imgur.com/GysaQeJ.jpg)
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Picked up my Interceptor from the upholsterer today.
Is that a 2002 sitting behind your bike?
Guys in the SCCA used to beat the living snot out of those things and they would not die.
Raced against them many times in my ITB car.
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I believe you’re right. It’s getting a full leather interior. Not my car, unfortunately.
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Picked up my Interceptor from the upholsterer today. With the new tail hoop and shorter rear fender I had to mount the license plate on the side as a temporary fix until I find an appropriate holder. (That's a modified Baak stainless steel rear fender and Motone Customs Eldorado taillight and bracket.) After I repair the dent in the tank it'll be time for some custom paintwork then I'll be finished, more or less.
Seat looks fantastic! Nice work.
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Thanks, all. I love the Motone taillight but the bracket is a little more prominent than I expected. I may look for something with a lower profile. Maybe it'll look better when the license plate is mounted at the end of the fender.
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Seat looks fantastic! Nice work.
+1
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Put the clip-ons of my Conti back in the original place. I was was moving them down to get a sportier body position. Then set further forward so the grip is wider and i could bend my elbows easier. All this became pretty uncomfortable.
Uncomfortability solved by putting the clip-ons back where they belong. :O
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A bit cold here, 4 minus zero C this morning, so no ride today.
Not because of the temperature, old bones are used to it, but there are such quantities of salt on the streets !
So I waxed my leather things, jacket, boots and saddles, they look like new ones !
(https://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/49/60/09/img_2019.jpg)
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I installed hard bags and new fenders in matching black.
There were extra holes in the windshield brackets so I put LED lights on them.
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Put the clip-ons of my Conti back in the original place. I was was moving them down to get a sportier body position. Then set further forward so the grip is wider and i could bend my elbows easier. All this became pretty uncomfortable.
Uncomfortability solved by putting the clip-ons back where they belong. :O
Good on you for putting your hands up on that change 👍 I felt my GT was o.k but ordered some risers from the u.k to future proof🤔 my brother thrown them in with other bits to alleviate the horrendous shipping costs to Oz😣
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I installed hard bags and new fenders in matching black.
There were extra holes in the windshield brackets so I put LED lights on them.
Very sharp ensemble. Everything comes together nicely.
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I installed hard bags and new fenders in matching black.
There were extra holes in the windshield brackets so I put LED lights on them.
Very nice looking motorcycle. It seems natural (no boob job).
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I wrapped up the color change from silver to ravashing red today.
Original
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Royal-Enfield-INT-650/i-73vZs6r/0/5b08372f/XL/20211231_140252-1-XL.jpg)
Current
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Royal-Enfield-INT-650/i-nf4SfsS/0/27779202/XL/20220114_111107-1-XL.jpg)
I had the front fender bracket powder coated gloss black as the silver looked silly with the black fender
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Royal-Enfield-INT-650/i-JVvw9QF/0/21321c52/XL/20220114_115711-1-XL.jpg)
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New mount for the Beeline and Motorad M1.
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I installed the TecBike parts tail rack. In the US it is on sale for $55. with $23 to ship it and I had it in only a few days. Tric for me is I have Givi side racks and I was not sure this would work for me. But it worked out in my favor as I had to move my indicators so I did not have to pull my shock of to fit this rack. The rack is just over 4lbs and the removed grab rails are just under 2lbs so it only added like 2.2lbs to the bike.
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New mount for the Beeline and Inforad M1.
Sorry, pressed Quote instead of Edit. How do we delete posts here?
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Sorry, pressed Quote instead of Edit. How do we delete posts here?
I have not found any way to delete a post on this forum.
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Sorry, pressed Quote instead of Edit. How do we delete posts here?
If it really triggers your OCD use the red report button (!) at the bottom right of the post and a mod will wipe it eventually.
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Fork boot install on 2020 Dr. Mayhem
https://youtu.be/X--0WqGPSLg
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Grip replacement with ODI Vans. These grips look and feel great and are only 20 USD.
https://youtu.be/D8MDSPILxPY
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Switched out the stock mirrors for bar end mirrors on the Continental GT 650
https://youtu.be/dDIwT3xtz64
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Finaly lowered the damn speedo . With proper clip ons they look like Mikey Mouse ears
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Finaly lowered the damn speedo . With proper clip ons they look like Mikey Mouse ears
That's definitely an improvement. I'm about to install a Dayton Velona multi-function gauge I purchased from FC-Moto but I have to find the correct bracket.
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Installed the Hitchcocks duel usb port connector with fork tube bracket today. Truly a plug and play connection inside the headlight bucket. As I had the headlight out I installed an LED light from evil bay. Looks good and way more light than the stock yellow H4 bulb.
First post here, looks like a good site for RE info!
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That's definitely an improvement. I'm about to install a Dayton Velona multi-function gauge I purchased from FC-Moto but I have to find the correct bracket.
Would love the velona W but my country wants me to have a ABS led .
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Fork boot install on 2020 Dr. Mayhem
https://youtu.be/X--0WqGPSLg
Thanks for the video. If anyone is interested in the correct way to install the front wheel the process is.
Torque up the axle nut
Drop the front wheel onto the ground and push the forks up and down
Torque up the axle pinch bolts.
Fit the fork brace.
Fit the brake callipers and torque the mount bolts.
The last 2 can be done in the reverse order.
Ciao
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Finaly lowered the damn speedo . With proper clip ons they look like Mikey Mouse ears
That’s a nice touch.
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(https://i.imgur.com/sIOVBNU.jpg)
Installed BAAK bobber exhaust, and the BAAK side covers. You can’t see the covers under my bags, but they help the bags not stick out so much.
I also painted the intake manifold covers and heel guards satin black and relocated the seat release pull to come out under the rear fender guard so I can release the seat without removing the panel.
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The bike looks great. I like the idea of relocating the seat release pull. I may have to do that myself.
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The bike looks great. I like the idea of relocating the seat release pull. I may have to do that myself.
👍
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(https://i.imgur.com/sIOVBNU.jpg)
Installed BAAK bobber exhaust, and the BAAK side covers. You can’t see the covers under my bags, but they help the bags not stick out so much.
I also painted the intake manifold covers and heel guards satin black and relocated the seat release pull to come out under the rear fender guard so I can release the seat without removing the panel.
Can you post a description and pics of relocating the seat release - save reinventing the wheel 👍
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Can you post a description and pics of relocating the seat release - save reinventing the wheel 👍
+1
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Nothing fancy. I bent it back and it slips through the fender liner on the right side of the bike, then I zip tied it to the brace under the seat so it has tension when you pull it.
(https://i.imgur.com/wqjPwU2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dM2pQhE.jpg)
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Nothing fancy. I bent it back and it slips through the fender liner on the right side of the bike, then I zip tied it to the brace under the seat so it has tension when you pull it.
(https://i.imgur.com/wqjPwU2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dM2pQhE.jpg)
Thx Again 👍
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I fitted some adjustable levers from Tec bike parts. Which is nice.
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That's definitely an improvement. I'm about to install a Dayton Velona multi-function gauge I purchased from FC-Moto but I have to find the correct bracket.
https://www.hdghmotorcycles.com/product-page/compteur-daytona-velona-interceptor-650
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https://www.hdghmotorcycles.com/product-page/compteur-daytona-velona-interceptor-650
That’s very nice but it’s not the one I have. Daytona makes numerous gauges called the Velona.
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I fitted some adjustable levers from Tec bike parts. Which is nice.
MUCH better. So much more comfortable and effective.
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That’s very nice but it’s not the one I have. Daytona makes numerous gauges called the Velona.
Ah ok the velona W you mean then
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Not to my bike but for it/ us...
Accessorised: another matching lid. Starting to appreciate how the ladies feel about their handbags and shoes.
Ps, Couldnadunnit without my girlfriend's impulse support - Thanks Kev! 😉
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Does the new hat make your butt look big?
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Does the new hat make your butt look big?
Yes, but in the nicest way!
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Yes, but in the nicest way!
You're too kind, Jess! 💕 Let's go shopping sometime 🎁🛵👜
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MUCH better. So much more comfortable and effective.
Explain. I do like the original ones, they look original and not modern. But as for the efficient part, when i pull my clutch lever my clutch disengages. When i pull my brake lever the front brake engages. How is that different and more efficient when you change the levers?
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You're too kind, Jess! 💕 Let's go shopping sometime 🎁🛵👜
HTTP 302 https://www.tinder.com
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Explain. I do like the original ones, they look original and not modern. But as for the efficient part, when i pull my clutch lever my clutch disengages. When i pull my brake lever the front brake engages. How is that different and more efficient when you change the levers?
NOT trying to answer for Starpeve, but on my 1st hour long ride I commented on pain from clutch lever and NO not weak wrists as someone suggested, however a better suggestion was too longer reach and they fixed by getting adjustable levers (not all of have basketball players hands) I did the same and sorted - better & more effective use with MY Shorter finger reach
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NOT trying to answer for Starpeve, but on my 1st hour long ride I commented on pain from clutch lever and NO not weak wrists as someone suggested, however a better suggestion was too longer reach and they fixed by getting adjustable levers (not all of have basketball players hands) I did the same and sorted - better & more effective use with MY Shorter finger reach
Clutch and front brake levers always get a lot of attention, particularly the clutch. And that makes sense because wrists can become achy. Heck, bending a wrist backwards is a martial arts technique.
Riders come in different sizes and sit on different portions of the seat. This, in turn, effects how much one's wrist is bent backwards. Think about the natural position for your wrist when you pull out a nail with a carpenter's hammer. Try to imagine pulling that nail with your wrist bent fully bent back.
A straight wrist is the goal, much more so than the "reach" to the lever. The lever perch for both is adjustable. What gets in the way is the angle of the mirror stalks and our general obsession with having both levers adjusted to the same angle. The master cylinder's angle is typically over accommodated.
So that's my 4cents worth. If you really do have small hands, get the Magura style levers. Otherwise, if you like to sit forward on the seat, consider tipping those levers down. Rolling the handle bar forward will help. In the end you want your arms to be a straight line from shoulder to wrist to finger tips, or as close as possible.
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Clutch and front brake levers always get a lot of attention, particularly the clutch. And that makes sense because wrists can become achy. Heck, bending a wrist backwards is a martial arts technique.
Riders come in different sizes and sit on different portions of the seat. This, in turn, effects how much one's wrist is bent backwards. Think about the natural position for your wrist when you pull out a nail with a carpenter's hammer. Try to imagine pulling that nail with your wrist bent fully bent back.
A straight wrist is the goal, much more so than the "reach" to the lever. The lever perch for both is adjustable. What gets in the way is the angle of the mirror stalks and our general obsession with having both levers adjusted to the same angle. The master cylinder's angle is typically over accommodated.
So that's my 4cents worth. If you really do have small hands, get the Magura style levers. Otherwise, if you like to sit forward on the seat, consider tipping those levers down. Rolling the handle bar forward will help. In the end you want your arms to be a straight line from shoulder to wrist to finger tips, or as close as possible.
ALL GOOD points- I wear a small to medium glove - wish I could say the same in jackets 🤣🤣
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Clutch and front brake levers always get a lot of attention, particularly the clutch. And that makes sense because wrists can become achy. Heck, bending a wrist backwards is a martial arts technique.
Riders come in different sizes and sit on different portions of the seat. This, in turn, effects how much one's wrist is bent backwards. Think about the natural position for your wrist when you pull out a nail with a carpenter's hammer. Try to imagine pulling that nail with your wrist bent fully bent back.
A straight wrist is the goal, much more so than the "reach" to the lever. The lever perch for both is adjustable. What gets in the way is the angle of the mirror stalks and our general obsession with having both levers adjusted to the same angle. The master cylinder's angle is typically over accommodated.
So that's my 4cents worth. If you really do have small hands, get the Magura style levers. Otherwise, if you like to sit forward on the seat, consider tipping those levers down. Rolling the handle bar forward will help. In the end you want your arms to be a straight line from shoulder to wrist to finger tips, or as close as possible.
Absolutely correct. Don’t forget about a throttle lock. I may only engage mine tor a couple of minutes per hour of riding, but those minutes give my hand much needed relaxation from constantly holding the throttle.
I tipped my levers down on day one and had adjustable clutch & brake levers within a few weeks.
And these are very inexpensive mods.
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HTTP 302 https://www.tinder.com
Sorry, but this girl is happily married. (Oh and fyi, to another woman)
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consider tipping those levers down. Rolling the handle bar forward will help. In the end you want your arms to be a straight line from shoulder to wrist to finger tips, or as close as possible.
And that's the FIRST adjustment you do to your bike. Even before it leaves the shop. At least, that's what i do.
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Sorry, but this girl is happily married. (Oh and fyi, to another woman)
That was meant as a geek joke....
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Every bike I've ever owned has come standard with the levers positioned wrongly with regards to the clocked position on the bars and the RE is no exception. If you sit on the bike and rest your palms on the grips and you need to lift you fingers to get them over the lever to get your fingers around the blade then the lever perch is rotated too high. It requires rotating in a clockwise direction around the bar so when you go for the clutch lever or brake your fingers follow the natural line from your hand, wrist and arm. Most need the lever rotated down about 15mm or so to align with the natural/normal ergonomic line of the fingers to the hand. Having to lift your fingers up and over over the lever to a large extent is tiring and increases the time taken to grip the lever. Some std positioning almost requires you to rotate your wrist backwards to to get your fingers over the levers. Don't know where this stupid seemingly universal positioning came from.
To adjust the levers into the correct position you need to remove the lever perch locating pin on the clutch and brake.
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That was meant as a geek joke....
😉
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NOT trying to answer for Starpeve, but on my 1st hour long ride I commented on pain from clutch lever and NO not weak wrists as someone suggested, however a better suggestion was too longer reach and they fixed by getting adjustable levers (not all of have basketball players hands) I did the same and sorted - better & more effective use with MY Shorter finger reach
Yep. The standard levers are way too much of a stretch for me. The clutch lever requires so little movement to be efficient, and the fact that I like to ride with at least one finger ‘cocked ‘ on the brake lever makes the adjustable levers the very first mod I do. Plus thicker grips.
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Every bike I've ever owned has come standard with the levers positioned wrongly with regards to the clocked position on the bars and the RE is no exception. If you sit on the bike and rest your palms on the grips and you need to lift you fingers to get them over the lever to get your fingers around the blade then the lever perch is rotated too high. It requires rotating in a clockwise direction around the bar so when you go for the clutch lever or brake your fingers follow the natural line from your hand, wrist and arm. Most need the lever rotated down about 15mm or so to align with the natural/normal ergonomic line of the fingers to the hand. Having to lift your fingers up and over over the lever to a large extent is tiring and increases the time taken to grip the lever. Some std positioning almost requires you to rotate your wrist backwards to to get your fingers over the levers. Don't know where this stupid seemingly universal positioning came from.
To adjust the levers into the correct position you need to remove the lever perch locating pin on the clutch and brake.
Yeah, what is that? Don’t these engineers ever ride bikes, or what? The very first thing I’ve done on any bike( push bikes included) is to rotate my controls until my outstretched fingers, parallel to my forearm, align with the lever pull axis.
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To adjust the levers into the correct position you need to remove the lever perch locating pin on the clutch and brake.
Oh, i didn't see that on my Conti. I just loosen the bolt on the part that holds the lever and lower it. And yes, every bike i owned had the levers set too high, but i never had an issue lowering them.
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Plus thicker grips.
THe RE is actually the first bike where i had to do this as well. Started off with Grip Puppies, which are a disaster. Now i just have some good quality chopper grips on the Conti.
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I switched to Teflon lined cables last year . Such a difference . Feels like a snaped cable
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Put the battery on a charger... ;).
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First yearly service continued apace 😅
I used Lucky Phil's method to check chain is not over tight, i.e. remove top end of shocks from bike, then move swingarm through it full arc to ensure it's unrestricted by chain. My chain still had 1cm freeplay at tightest point in arc, so it's all good.
As you can see, I threw everything I had at it - paddock stand, jack, rope, etc - trying to figure out a mechanical (rather than human) method to move the swingarm through it's arc, but nothing worked, the bike became unstable and I had to use my (admitedly meagre) muscles to rangle the swing arm in a reverse bench press kind of situation - chest on seat, dogging the bike from behind, right hand pulling the swingarm, left hand feeling the chain for tightness. Instructions for a more graceful method would be appreciated. The pic shows my first (failed) attempt at a side mount.
Ps, the torque spec for top shock bolts is only 18Nm, but they had lock tight on them. Should lock tight be added when reassembling them?
With chain tension sorted, I gave it a long lick of gear oil (cos I'm a cheapskate), then moved onto polishing the cases and pipe. The latter, which appears to made of pretty poor quality stainless, came up particularly shiny and the Gods were well pleased! 🛕
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Well l bought a paddock stand got it off eBay for £17 did not think is would be up to much but when l got it the quality was superb, l concluded they must have real slaves making them in China, bobbins only £4 plastic though, l won’t have to struggle my guts out with that bloody centre stand now when removing wheel and doing chain adjustments great tool at excellent price no import and free post, self assembly which took 10 minutes good old China great powder coating they have come a long way.
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Oh, i didn't see that on my Conti. I just loosen the bolt on the part that holds the lever and lower it. And yes, every bike i owned had the levers set too high, but i never had an issue lowering them.
Just followed your lead 👍 a simple 10mm on Clutch, 2x8mm on Brake quick rotate down- must have taken 30seconds, and spanners in jacket for adjusting during planned run tomorrow 👍
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The New touring seat is at home, Tks for the information Whippers.🥇
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I put the stock horns back on my Interceptor after replacing them last June with a Denali Mini Sound Bomb. I didn't find the Denali all that much louder and prefer the look of the stock horns. The Denali now goes on my GL650 where it will be a vast improvement over the forty year old stock pair.
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I find the stock horns very loud they are twin horns, RE did well there.
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I find the stock horns very loud they are twin horns, RE did well there.
When I did my first test ride of my GT, I remember thinking how much I liked the sound of the horns, it was a pleasant surprise.
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When I did my first test ride of my GT, I remember thinking how much I liked the sound of the horns, it was a pleasant surprise.
Yeah, two tone horns. I think I recall some early sales literature boasting about them. I've never tried them individually.
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Today I’m happy
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Y’all may remember I added left & right turn indicator lights to my cockpit. The original one were just tiny LEDs hot glued to the flyscreen bracket.
I replaced the flyscreen with a custom painted C-Racer café fairing. I wanted something more upscale for the indicator (warning lights?) than just an LED on the end of a wire.
Found a source on Aliexpress that sells LEDs with a housing and just about any symbol you want.
Mounted them on a black ‘L’ bracket bolted to the windshield screws.
So, behold the new cockpit!
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Y’all may remember I added left & right turn indicator lights to my cockpit. The original one were just tiny LEDs hot glued to the flyscreen bracket.
I replaced the flyscreen with a custom painted C-Racer café fairing. I wanted something more upscale for the indicator (warning lights?) than just an LED on the end of a wire.
Found a source on Aliexpress that sells LEDs with a housing and just about any symbol you want.
Mounted them on a black ‘L’ bracket bolted to the windshield screws.
So, behold the new cockpit!
Looks Good - I Fitted a whole range of those for the dash of the JZR trike I built and perfect, as you say just about ANY design you could want 👍
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Y’all may remember I added left & right turn indicator lights to my cockpit. The original one were just tiny LEDs hot glued to the flyscreen bracket.
I replaced the flyscreen with a custom painted C-Racer café fairing. I wanted something more upscale for the indicator (warning lights?) than just an LED on the end of a wire.
Found a source on Aliexpress that sells LEDs with a housing and just about any symbol you want.
Mounted them on a black ‘L’ bracket bolted to the windshield screws.
So, behold the new cockpit!
Seems like you still have some space for a flat screen TV there behind the screen. Make sure it's IP65 or better though. ;)
Ciao
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Seems like you still have some space for a flat screen TV there behind the screen. Make sure it's IP65 or better though. ;)
Ciao
I’m not, as you have already surmised, a minimalist.
I really dig the 1965 James Bond kind of vibe the plethora of dials bestow the cockpit.
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Seems like you still have some space for a flat screen TV there behind the screen. Make sure it's IP65 or better though. ;)
Ciao
Oh! I forget to mention that the center cap is reserved for a Beeline Moto in silver. Does that count as my big screen?
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I’m not, as you have already surmised, a minimalist.
I really dig the 1965 James Bond kind of vibe the plethora of dials bestow the cockpit.
I'm more the "less is better", "elegance of simplicity", "Freedom is the absence of choice" type.
Ciao
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I'm more the "less is better", "elegance of simplicity", "Freedom is the absence of choice" type.
Ciao
Hahaha😂
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Oh! I forget to mention that the center cap is reserved for a Beeline Moto in silver. Does that count as my big screen?
You mean you've left something out! Ditch the key fob, why the hell do people insist on key fobs that flap about and mar the finish on the triple tree and sundry other stuff. I don't get it.
Ciao
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I'm more the "less is better", "elegance of simplicity", "Freedom is the absence of choice" type.
Ciao
🎼Freedom of choice is what you got, freedom from choice is what you want…🎶
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Y’all may remember I added left & right turn indicator lights to my cockpit. The original one were just tiny LEDs hot glued to the flyscreen bracket.
I replaced the flyscreen with a custom painted C-Racer café fairing. I wanted something more upscale for the indicator (warning lights?) than just an LED on the end of a wire.
Found a source on Aliexpress that sells LEDs with a housing and just about any symbol you want.
Mounted them on a black ‘L’ bracket bolted to the windshield screws.
So, behold the new cockpit!
Apologies if this is covered elsewhere but is this the C.Racer fairing? If so how did the fit go? Was there any cutting of parts or did it really bolt straight on?
Thanks,
Matt
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Just re-read the post and you already said it's the c racer fairing! Sorry. Still interested in the ease of fit though.
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Apologies if this is covered elsewhere but is this the C.Racer fairing? If so how did the fit go? Was there any cutting of parts or did it really bolt straight on?
Thanks,
Matt
It’s a straight bolt on, assuming you buy the Royal Enfield 650 versions, there are several C-Racer models.
There are four brackets, two use the upper clock mounts and two use the headlight shell mounts. It comes unpainted, I took mine to a custom auto shop and had it painted to match the tank, stripes included.
https://c-racer.com/store/bolt-on-parts/royal-enfield-cafe-racer/headlight-mask-cafe-racer.html
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You mean you've left something out! Ditch the key fob, why the hell do people insist on key fobs that flap about and mar the finish on the triple tree and sundry other stuff. I don't get it.
Ciao
That keyfob is an Apple Airtag. Too stiff to flop around and the holder is soft leather, so no maring of surfaces.
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That keyfob is an Apple Airtag. Too stiff to flop around and the holder is soft leather, so no maring of surfaces.
Your bike YOUR CALL! Likewise I use the black leather cowhide shaped "tag" that came on my jacket- soft, doesn't mark, or fly around and easier to find when tucked in jeans or jacket 👍
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The Interceptor GT convertible. Pictures on the way.
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more
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and...
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Got round to adding 2nd choice decal to single seat cowl ALL good on twin seat cowl. Oh and drank an Indian Pale Ale - my excuse was 44'c and just replaced battery on block ute
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The Interceptor GT convertible. Pictures on the way.
You put the clip-ons on top of the yoke. Geometry has changes to more sportive/nervous, riding position has changed to more relaxed/touring.
How does that ride?
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You put the clip-ons on top of the yoke. Geometry has changes to more sportive/nervous, riding position has changed to more relaxed/touring.
How does that ride?
Forget it. Saw your other post about the risers.
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Anyway, my penultimate purchase, I'll send you photos when it's assembled, I know, but I couldn't resist.
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Anyway, my penultimate purchase, I'll send you photos when it's assembled, I know, but I couldn't resist.
I’m probably in the minority here, but I like the look of the stock silver brace on the black fender.
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I’m probably in the minority here, but I like the look of the stock silver brace on the black fender.
Me too!
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Finaly lowered the damn speedo . With proper clip ons they look like Mikey Mouse ears
Hello Marcsen, did you purchase this mount, or create it? It looks amazing, and exactly like what I keep thinking about building, unless there's one out there already.
Thanks!
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I’m probably in the minority here, but I like the look of the stock silver brace on the black fender.
If you are prepared to put in a bit of elbow grease the standard brace comes up quite nicely. Billet braces while very nice can't really be justified on a cost/benefit analysis.
Mine with Titanium mount bolts.
Ciao
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If you are prepared to put in a bit of elbow grease the standard brace comes up quite nicely. Billet braces while very nice can't really be justified on a cost/benefit analysis.
Mine with Titanium mount bolts.
Ciao
Wow! That’s beautiful Phil
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Wow! That’s beautiful Phil
I used the same technique with the rear light housing and the rocker cover. I like a brushed alloy finish. Coated them all with clear engine enamel so they're maintenance free.
Ciao
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I parked it on the ice, just to be a smart ass!
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Anyway, my penultimate purchase, I'll send you photos when it's assembled, I know, but I couldn't resist.
Hi I have already installed it, I like it, now I have to get used to it, if not I can always put the original,
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Getting close to finished. Just need to swap out the clutch cable and find a slightly shorter flyscreen (the one on there looks like a fingernail to me. :o ) and I'll be all done... Or at least that's what I'm telling myself:
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It's been mentioned here that the C-racer fairing for the GT is tight to the gauges. The truth is the plexiglass windscreen covers them. In daylight it can be impossible to read the speedo or tach. I'm 5'8" and in normal riding position I have to look down through the top of the plexiglass.
I contacted C-Racer with description and photo of the issue and was told everything was correct and that was the correct 'café racer' look. I guess I missed the part where café racers in the 1960's had their gauges blocked.
If you dare to alter the true café look, all it takes are a couple of coupling nuts. The fairing comes with two that attach to the back of the gauges. The bracket for the top mounts attach to these. Adding a second coupler changes the angle of the fairing, tilting the windscreen up just enough to give you an unobstructed line of sight to the gauges.
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It's been mentioned here that the C-racer fairing for the GT is tight to the gauges. The truth is the plexiglass windscreen covers them. In daylight it can be impossible to read the speedo or tach. I'm 5'8" and in normal riding position I have to look down through the top of the plexiglass.
I contacted C-Racer with description and photo of the issue and was told everything was correct and that was the correct 'café racer' look. I guess I missed the part where café racers in the 1960's had their gauges blocked.
If you dare to alter the true café look, all it takes are a couple of coupling nuts. The fairing comes with two that attach to the back of the gauges. The bracket for the top mounts attach to these. Adding a second coupler changes the angle of the fairing, tilting the windscreen up just enough to give you an unobstructed line of sight to the gauges.
I thought you said you were 6'3"?
Ciao
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I thought you said you were 6'3"?
Ciao
Not this girl
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Not this girl
I read this post of yours and recalled it was 6'3" not 63, lol. Did you a favour there ;)
I’m 63, no major injuries yet. I stopped riding motorcycles in the 1990s. But I took up first Mountain Biking, including racing, the road biking, even riding portions of the Tour de France routes (Trek Travel trip), along with countless 100k & longer group rides.
The GT just gives me the riding position that feel in control and comfortable. Its way more upright than any of my pedal powered vehicles, yet comes closet to the feel of balance & control the riding in the drops of a good road bike gives.
Ciao
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I read this post of yours and recalled it was 6'3" not 63, lol. Did you a favour there ;)
I’m 63, no major injuries yet. I stopped riding motorcycles in the 1990s. But I took up first Mountain Biking, including racing, the road biking, even riding portions of the Tour de France routes (Trek Travel trip), along with countless 100k & longer group rides.
The GT just gives me the riding position that feel in control and comfortable. Its way more upright than any of my pedal powered vehicles, yet comes closet to the feel of balance & control the riding in the drops of a good road bike gives.
Ciao
So you’re not currently riding motorcycles?
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So you’re not currently riding motorcycles?
Yes, I am currently riding my Royal Enfield Continental GT 650.
No, I'm not 6 foot 3, unless I'm wearing 7" heels...
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It's been mentioned here that the C-racer fairing for the GT is tight to the gauges. The truth is the plexiglass windscreen covers them. In daylight it can be impossible to read the speedo or tach. I'm 5'8" and in normal riding position I have to look down through the top of the plexiglass.
I contacted C-Racer with description and photo of the issue and was told everything was correct and that was the correct 'café racer' look. I guess I missed the part where café racers in the 1960's had their gauges blocked.
If you dare to alter the true café look, all it takes are a couple of coupling nuts. The fairing comes with two that attach to the back of the gauges. The bracket for the top mounts attach to these. Adding a second coupler changes the angle of the fairing, tilting the windscreen up just enough to give you an unobstructed line of sight to the gauges.
You have a side shot of the bike after your mod? The windshield does obstruct the gauges, but I mostly ride by feel anyway. I’m 5’10 and I can move my head a little to see them if I really have to. Still, it sounds like clever solution you came up with.
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You have a side shot of the bike after your mod? The windshield does obstruct the gauges, but I mostly ride by feel anyway. I’m 5’10 and I can move my head a little to see them if I really have to. Still, it sounds like clever solution you came up with.
Here's is the photo. It's hard to see any difference but it's there.
You need 2 M6 nut couplers and a small length of M6 threaded rod. Cut the rod to make 2 small pieces that screw the couplers together. Now screw the couplers back onto the gauge stud and attach the brackets.
The gauge stud angles down so the extra length on the couplers pushes the top mounting bracket forward and down just a little, but enough to move the windscreen.
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Not today, originally a chrome interceptor,
but over the past three years..
racetech inserts front forks, self cancelling flashers, S&S hi comp pistons, cams, powertronic, verex stainless headers, powerage mufflers, GT tank in Dr Mayhem, single seat and cowl, YSS rear adjustable shocks. I sure there's other stuff Ive forgotten about...
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Never a fan of the stock shift lever and no fan of the knurled pedal that comes on the TEC version, I drilled and tapped the TEC lever to fit the Motone ribbed shift peg. I have a collection of miscellaneous o-rings lying around so I slipped seven of them over the ribs. (They might last a season though I doubt it.) I haven't tried it yet because I'm doing some other work on my Interceptor and it's too cold out to ride a motorcycle anyway.
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got my RE black sump guard, polished engine protector bars and Powerage short exhaust cans installed today...
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Never a fan of the stock shift lever and no fan of the knurled pedal that comes on the TEC version, I drilled and tapped the TEC lever to fit the Motone ribbed shift peg. I have a collection of miscellaneous o-rings lying around so I slipped seven of them over the ribs. (They might last a season though I doubt it.) I haven't tried it yet because I'm doing some other work on my Interceptor and it's too cold out to ride a motorcycle anyway.
Is the lever the same length as OEM?
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got my RE black sump guard, polished engine protector bars and Powerage short exhaust cans installed today...
Bust day. Look great. Are you lov'n the exhaust?
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I put PoweRage "long" mufflers on. I didn't realize at the time that they came in short...not sure how much difference in length?...
The only reason I changed the mufflers, is the OEM just looked too fat for my liking....the PoweRage are smooth and slimmer...looks good to me, nice quality too.
They sound good too... but not much louder than stock...no performance improvement is noticeable.
Cookie
got my RE black sump guard, polished engine protector bars and Powerage short exhaust cans installed today...
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Today i yanked out those black cylinder head heat guards, removed the handle bar brace and fitted a TEC oil cooler guard. Ive only had the bike for two days and its a pleasure to ride (300ks so far).
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Is the lever the same length as OEM?
It’s longer to compensate for the 40mm extension on the foot pegs. In fact if you look closely you can see an extension on the shift lever.
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No time for a proper ride yet but hopefully tomorrow.
I do like the sound and it is louder than the stock for sure. I have the db killers in. I didn't want anything loud. Not a fan of that for myself but am a fan of a good deep note. Early to tell, but so far these seem like a nice middle ground between extremes. Rev'd to 4-4.5k...plenty of growl for me.
Should get a better idea tomorrow.
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I don't know what your riding position looks like, but my knees are up against those cylinder head heat guards...If I took off the guards, I thing I'd toast my pants a bit!
But my position is quite different from most....I have low handlebars, I sit WAY forward, toes on footpads, long legs...etc.
Cookie
Today i yanked out those black cylinder head heat guards, removed the handle bar brace and fitted a TEC oil cooler guard. Ive only had the bike for two days and its a pleasure to ride (300ks so far).
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got my RE black sump guard, polished engine protector bars and Powerage short exhaust cans installed today...
I installed the standard Powerage cans almost a year ago. 8.95 lbs. lighter per pair than the stock units. Measured with a digital luggage scale. Nice growl but not obnoxious. I too left the db silencers in. Bought from an ebay seller in Colorado. $240.00. (around $285.00 now. Damned inflation!) They run cooler and dissipate heat quicker after shut down. I see no negative change in the way the bike runs. Slimmer in profile, they look great. Easy install with no spacers. Stainless steel free flow pipes at a reasonable cost. What's not to love? :)
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Dropped it at the dealer for warranty service. Gear position indicator for N needs to be repaired/replaced. The keyed-ignition core also needs to be replaced. I'm having that reported issue where turn the key, dash lights up, then dash dies, apply a little pressure back toward the "off" position while leaving the key in "on" position and power is restored. It works, but not like it should. I'm also not keen on finding out what happens when that power cuts mid-ride.
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Cranked it for the 1st time since late October. Got in a few miles to get it properly warm. She blasted right up with no issues and settled into a good idle while warming up. Man I can't wait for spring.
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Added the Sahara seat and some tkc70's this week. Waiting on powerage shorts in the mail!
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I had the Bt46 fitted today.
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Aaaaand the powerage slip-ons are installed 8)
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Stared longingly at it and cursed both the weather and my decision to have children that I committed to keeping alive until they turn 18.
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Stared longingly at it and cursed both the weather and my decision to have children that I committed to keeping alive until they turn 18.
Suffer in ya jocks!
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Suffer in ya jocks!
I would scream "NO!" but it prob wouldn't accomplish much.
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I would scream "NO!" but it prob wouldn't accomplish much.
Oh, and it doesn't stop at 18 - still paying university fees for two +19yr olds... one is 27 and just finished her second go around.
What's that? Can't hear over the screaming...
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Oh, and it doesn't stop at 18 - still paying university fees for two +19yr olds... one is 27 and just finished her second go around.
What's that? Can't hear over the screaming...
Thankfully I've got childless siblings that are handling that. 18 and I'm free!
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I rode it!
Cookie
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Thankfully I've got childless siblings that are handling that. 18 and I'm free!
Wtf? How good are your siblings??
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I plugged the charger in and started polishing the bike.
After about 30 min. the light turned green.
I sat on it, twisted the accelerator a couple times and re-adjusted the mirrors unnecessarily.
Unplugged the charger and turned the lights out. :(
It's 26F here, the road is covered in anti-skid & bleached white with salt.
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Suffer in ya jocks!
That's something I'd expect my partner to say (to remind me she's from Dubbo... and I'm from Morwell 😅).
It's obviously across the ditch but where else in the world?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGr0Ko0f4Tg
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Wtf? How good are your siblings??
Better at making money than a family, apparently. ;D
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Just like some snow bound folk over there, I'm sitting here... in the midst of a monsoonal trough, just watching the rain,,,lots of it. Some areas are getting over 12 inches in half a day. Its not riding in the rain, its cleaning the (censored) things after a ride that's the problem...lol...
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I plugged the charger in and started polishing the bike.
After about 30 min. the light turned green.
I sat on it, twisted the accelerator a couple times and re-adjusted the mirrors unnecessarily.
Unplugged the charger and turned the lights out. :(
It's 26F here, the road is covered in anti-skid & bleached white with salt.
So sad! It was 69 in Philly today so I got an unseasonably nice ride in. Thanks global warming.
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Picked up the Interceptor last week so trying to rack up some miles for the first service (500km) between tropical downpours.
Fitted rubber edge trim over the length of the bottom weld seam of the tank - just for aesthetics.
Removed the black plastic extensions off the guards and plugged the screw/bolt holes with rubber bungs sourced from the local rubber supplier (Clark Rubber for those Aussies on here).
Fitted LED Hi/Lo headlight - excellent at night.
Fitted new Red Rooster cans sourced from India - sounds a shit load better but leaving the dB killers in for the moment. Original mufflers cleaned, wrapped and put into storage.
Even got to throw a coat of Meguiar's Gold Class wax on.
Did I say I am trying to rack up km's for next service? :-) ...itching to wind it up beyond 4000rpm.
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Cleaned it a little (it was already very clean ;D) then went buying a few bottles of wine for a dinner tomorrow, a mere 40 kms under the sun but in the cold cold wind, can't wait for May / June!
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Ah, and put some gas in, almost 2 € per liter of sp98! Thank you Vlad ...
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Ah, and put some gas in, almost 2 € per liter of sp98! Thank you Vlad ...
Vlad the Inflator
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Fixed an issue with the side-stand.
The GT side-stand (maybe the Int too, I don’t know) sits right under the foot peg, making it necessary to hunt for it a bit.
I had purchased and extra side-stand foot pad and realized that it had the parts to fix my issue.
A picture is worth a thousand words, here are 3.
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Fixed an issue with the side-stand.
The GT side-stand (maybe the Int too, I don’t know) sits right under the foot peg, making it necessary to hunt for it a bit.
I had purchased and extra side-stand foot pad and realized that it had the parts to fix my issue.
A picture is worth a thousand words, here are 3.
👍
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Fitted a Dart 'Marlin' screen yesterday, seems to work well.
(https://i.imgur.com/nEE5SYv.jpg)
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Yesterday
That would make a nice poster.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=67122;image)
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I haven’t done it yet, but the fact I’m thinking about it probably allows me to slip in to this thread!! I’m looking at some 1” rise clipons in alloy finish. It’ll drop the bars about 2 1/2”, and push them forwards about 1”. I know I’ll love the look, but I’m thinking about the neck angle. My GT’s comfy as she is, but I’d love to de- clutter that area, and the alloy gear would look great to boot.
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BTW I’m only 5’6” so the crouch possie is less pronounced for me than for other shortness- compromised riders!😁
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BTW I’m only 5’6” so the crouch possie is less pronounced for me than for other shortness- compromised riders!😁
Well you should try being 6'1"
Ciao
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Well you should try being 6'1"
Ciao
That was my point….
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This morning I installed a GPS tracker.
And I relocated my tool roll to be under the seat cowl, since I had to move it with the Baak side panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/xy3tt6k.jpg)
Also, you might remember I had altered the seat release pull to come out above the rear tire, so I can take the seat off without removing the side panels. I made it much tidier, by cutting a notch out of the plastic that now holds the pull perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/F2xEeNB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VRGgbPt.jpg)
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This morning I installed a GPS tracker.
And I relocated my tool roll to be under the seat cowl, since I had to move it with the Baak side panels.
Also, you might remember I had altered the seat release pull to come out above the rear tire, so I can take the seat off without removing the side panels. I made it much tidier, by cutting a notch out of the plastic that now holds the pull perfectly.
+1 good work Ruddigger!
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+1 good work Ruddigger!
+1
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Vlad the Inflator
;D I am not far from preferring the impaler!
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This morning I installed a GPS tracker.
And I relocated my tool roll to be under the seat cowl, since I had to move it with the Baak side panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/xy3tt6k.jpg)
Also, you might remember I had altered the seat release pull to come out above the rear tire, so I can take the seat off without removing the side panels. I made it much tidier, by cutting a notch out of the plastic that now holds the pull perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/F2xEeNB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VRGgbPt.jpg)
What GPS tracker did you use ?
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;D I am not far from preferring the impaler!
Either way; everyone gets shafted..
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What GPS tracker did you use ?
Sizzapp, no monthly subscription or sim card fee. Luckily it shipped out of Latvia right before the war started up.
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This morning I installed a GPS tracker.
And I relocated my tool roll to be under the seat cowl, since I had to move it with the Baak side panels.
(https://i.imgur.com/xy3tt6k.jpg)
Also, you might remember I had altered the seat release pull to come out above the rear tire, so I can take the seat off without removing the side panels. I made it much tidier, by cutting a notch out of the plastic that now holds the pull perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/F2xEeNB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VRGgbPt.jpg)
Looks Good - like the 2nd variation to the seat release - will follow suit, and great use of seat cowl space :)
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Looks Good - like the 2nd variation to the seat release - will follow suit, and great use of seat cowl space :)
I have the dual seat with cowl, and I wish I had the empty space to use. Alas, the dual cowl has a seat underneath!
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Not today, but yesterday, pulled the INT650 out of the garage. First time in about 4 months of winter slumber. Adjusted tire pressure, cleaned off t-100 spray metal preservative and started the bike. Fired on the second revolution of the engine and ran perfectly during warm up. Love this bike! Only rode about 40 miles but thoroughly enjoyed it! :)
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Washed and polished her. And in doing so noticed something shiny in my rear tyre. Upon removing it with a pair of needle- nose pliers found it was a pop-rivet shaft 25 mm long perpendicularly piercing the tyre, yet somehow not penetrating the tube! No loss of pressure and no apparent leak somehow!
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Which makes me wonder if I now have a weak spot in my tube? No idea how long that rivet shank was chafing away at the tube. And I dread flats on bikes…
Much to the horror of many here, I’m wondering if I should pre-emptively dose my wheel with Slime…
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Which makes me wonder if I now have a weak spot in my tube? No idea how long that rivet shank was chafing away at the tube. And I dread flats on bikes…
Much to the horror of many here, I’m wondering if I should pre-emptively dose my wheel with Slime…
Yeah, I know the feeling. I use a preventative. I choose one that is latex based with filler fibers as opposed to the type that adhesive based. The latex never hardens over time and will wash away with plain water when the next tire change happens. [or you could go big and go tubeless]
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Yeah, I know the feeling. I use a preventative. I choose one that is latex based with filler fibers as opposed to the type that adhesive based. The latex never hardens over time and will wash away with plain water when the next tire change happens. [or you could go big and go tubeless]
Yeah I’ll do that if I ever get around to it!!
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Yesterday - refitted the standard silencers to my Interceptor! I liked the looks and much lighter weight of the things I'd put on, but after two weeks couldn't be doing with the noise, even after fitting extra baffles. There also seemed to be an increase in fuel consumption with the noisy pipes. :-\
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Yesterday - refitted the standard silencers to my Interceptor! I liked the looks and much lighter weight of the things I'd put on, but after two weeks couldn't be doing with the noise, even after fitting extra baffles. There also seemed to be an increase in fuel consumption with the noisy pipes. :-\
I’m waiting for the day someone makes a lighter pipe that is no louder than stock, until then I will live with the weight.
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I’m waiting for the day someone makes a lighter pipe that is no louder than stock, until then I will live with the weight.
It's never going to happen.
Ciao
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It's never going to happen.
Ciao
Ahh, I made one. It is essentially a straight pipe with a Helmholtz Resonator. It is extremely quiet.
The main draw back is the looks. I still have that bike and it still has that exhaust. If I were to do it again, or if I cared, I'd disguise it with a Cone Engineering megaphone skin surrounding it.
(https://www.stromtrooper.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down//media/h-tube-plus.41097/full)
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Ahh, I made one. It is essentially a straight pipe with a Helmholtz Resonator. It is extremely quiet.
The main draw back is the looks. I still have that bike and it still has that exhaust. If I were to do it again, or if I cared, I'd disguise it with a Cone Engineering megaphone skin surrounding it.
(https://www.stromtrooper.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down//media/h-tube-plus.41097/full)
I was referring to something you'd actually want to fit to your bike ;)
Ciao
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I was referring to something you'd actually want to fit to your bike ;)
Ciao
:D Ha! How non-engineer of you, mate.
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:D Ha! How non-engineer of you, mate.
Might not be pretty, but kudos for function!👍
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Ahh, I made one. It is essentially a straight pipe with a Helmholtz Resonator. It is extremely quiet.
The main draw back is the looks. I still have that bike and it still has that exhaust. If I were to do it again, or if I cared, I'd disguise it with a Cone Engineering megaphone skin surrounding it.
(https://www.stromtrooper.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down//media/h-tube-plus.41097/full)
Why does it have a flaccid penis facsimile at the end?
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Why does it have a flaccid penis facsimile at the end?
Maybe it's resting.
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Why does it have a flaccid penis facsimile at the end?
Well yeah. That is the most offensive part. But there is a reason that comes in two parts. Primarily because as we know, one of the sound reduction methods is disruption of the sound waves. That exit uses the ground as a final scattering of the sound waves into smaller ones and the air of the spinning wheel and tire aid that as well.. It also localizes the sound to that momentary spot. It is a long used method for enduro racers to meet AMA sound limits. The radius minimizes the friction of the exhaust gases to maintain the speed. The end piece has the same ID as the rest of the system.
_ As mentioned, I had considered disguising the whole thing by putting it inside a polished stainless cone. The exhaust would still exit to the ground but there would be a faux hole at the end to simulate a normal person's exhaust.
_ The notion of the Helmholtz Resonator is not new. It dates back to the 1800's. I came a cross it in my late teens at a sugar refinery keeping a giant vacuum system quiet. A very patient engineer got me to understand that the air moving through those big pipes and the sound waves moving through them were two separate things. One caused by the other and both contained in that single pipe yet independent. After that it is all pretty simple. The "tube" lets the sound waves expand into it / hit a dead end / bounce back to collide with the next sound wave. This does not effect the speed or volume of the actual exhaust gases and is often, in-artfully, called "noise cancellation".
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Why does it have a flaccid penis facsimile at the end?
Must have been designed by a female, we don’t need the ego boost😁
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Must have been designed by a female, we don’t need the ego boost😁
Ha, hilarious Jess. I can assure you that I take 100% of the blame for the design and subsequently the looks. I checked through my notes and I find no reference to a pecker.
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Now we know why engineers don't have the final say on what goes to market.
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A couple days ago, I outfitted Enfield Precision mufflers from Hitchcock along with adjustable levers on the Interceptor. Took it out for a short ride ( it was mid 50's here ) and the noise wasn't too bad. Just like someone else posted, wish they would make a slightly louder muffler that was lighter. The new pipes ran a lot cooler ( primary reason for me to swap, too worried about hot pipes ) and were definitely lighter. Time will tell if they remain once the season really starts which won't be for at least another month.
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Topped off the tire pressure and rode to work for the first time this year. Sunny and 43 deg.
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Slimed my rear tyre for fear of deflation due to previously mentioned tyre piercing by a pop-rivet. There was no apparent leak but I’m sure there would have been some damage to the tube just waiting to ambush me at the most inconvenient moment.
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Ha, hilarious Jess. I can assure you that I take 100% of the blame for the design and subsequently the looks. I checked through my notes and I find no reference to a pecker.
That says good things about you!
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Jess, my
I’m waiting for the day someone makes a lighter pipe that is no louder than stock, until then I will live with the weight.
My Red Rooster silencers aren't much louder than the factory ones. I was worried about that, too, but when I compared them installed, I only got about 5db increase. I can't notice much difference in volume, though I like the exhaust note. Might just be too many concerts have destroyed my sense of volume! AM I YELLING? ;) https://www.ebay.com/itm/265428840991
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Jess, my
My Red Rooster silencers aren't much louder than the factory ones. I was worried about that, too, but when I compared them installed, I only got about 5db increase. I can't notice much difference in volume, though I like the exhaust note. Might just be too many concerts have destroyed my sense of volume! AM I YELLING? ;) https://www.ebay.com/itm/265428840991
You do know that db is a logarithmic scale, right? 😉
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You do know that db is a logarithmic scale, right? 😉
(https://i.gifer.com/7Ajn.gif)
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You do know that db is a logarithmic scale, right? 😉
Well, I do now! Doh!
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It was a bit rainy again today, so I moved the seat release control to under the mudguard, in front of the left shocker. Now I can open the seat whenever, especially during cleaning.
I also relocated the rear brake fluid reservoir to under the seat. Probably unnecessary, but I was paranoid about that little plastic thing next to the back wheel.
Then a short ride, but it started bucketing down again.
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I also relocated the rear brake fluid reservoir to under the seat. Probably unnecessary, but I was paranoid about that little plastic thing next to the back wheel.
Interesting, about moving the fluid reservoir. Anything, in particular, that you had to consider as you did it? Any tips?
Thanks
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Relocating the fluid reservoir was fairly easy.
Obviously a new, longer brake fluid line. 45mm of 20 x 20 x 1.6mm aluminum angle and a couple of holes in it. It bolt straight in between the frame and the tool roll mounting plate, with the centre bolt. I did splay the angle a little, to get the perfect position.
Many years ago, on my 79 Bonny, I had a 100 x 10mm bolt come of the road (probably from my front tire first) and hit the back wheel and went between the chain and sprocket. Pretty catastrophic. Although the wood-ruff key in the clutch did save the day. 2
I ride on a lot of back roads and a reasonable amount of dirt roads, so the plastic reservoir on the 650GT made me nervous.
Moving the seat latch was also part of that equation. It allows for fast access, without needing to wonder where to put your side cover down, or get your key back out of it to start your bike.
I have been observing the pattern of where dirt goes, under the mudguard, for a long time, before deciding where to put the seat latch control. And you could also pop rivet a small plastic guard in to protect if it does get any dirt.
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Relocating the fluid reservoir was fairly easy.
Obviously a new, longer brake fluid line. 45mm of 20 x 20 x 1.6mm aluminum angle and a couple of holes in it. It bolt straight in between the frame and the tool roll mounting plate, with the centre bolt. I did splay the angle a little, to get the perfect position.
Many years ago, on my 79 Bonny, I had a 100 x 10mm bolt come of the road (probably from my front tire first) and hit the back wheel and went between the chain and sprocket. Pretty catastrophic. Although the wood-ruff key in the clutch did save the day. 2
I ride on a lot of back roads and a reasonable amount of dirt roads, so the plastic reservoir on the 650GT made me nervous.
Moving the seat latch was also part of that equation. It allows for fast access, without needing to wonder where to put your side cover down, or get your key back out of it to start your bike.
I have been observing the pattern of where dirt goes, under the mudguard, for a long time, before deciding where to put the seat latch control. And you could also pop rivet a small plastic guard in to protect if it does get any dirt.
Honestly I dont see the point in this mod. These plastic reservoirs are as tough as nails as many race bike crashes have demonstrated to me. They are made of identical material to the remote style front brake and clutch reservoirs which are among the first things that get a hammering in a crash usually. So the perceived gain in reservoir protection that I frankly don't think is an issue even on dirt roads is offset by additional length of rubber feed hose to the master cylinder. The rubber feed hose is more vulnerable than the reservoir in my view. Not really sure how the random bolt in the drive chain of an old Bonnie relates but to each their own personal nightmares.
Ciao
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I hated the look of the "gators" that came on my 2022 Interceptor. But I knew I didn't want to loose the protection for the fork seals. And I didn't want the answer making a big statement on the forks. So I added the necessary height in 1/16" clear Lexan plates held in place with black hose clamps. Does the trick and is almost invisible. I hope you like it. John
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Honestly I dont see the point in this mod. .....
.....
Ciao
Thanks Oldandintheway
I'm interested in doing that not to protect the reservoir but to reclaim some space there and to have a longer (more flex scope) hose to accommodate the roadside adjustable foot pegs I've been working on.
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Mods (at least for now) complete :)
Tec pipes with filter and snorkel
Baak seat
Baak side bag
NewBonneville indicators front and back
Baak polished mudguard
Baak tail light
Cheap Amazon bar-end mirrors
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Mods (at least for now) complete :)
Tec pipes with filter and snorkel
Baak seat
Baak side bag
NewBonneville indicators front and back
Baak polished mudguard
Baak tail light
Cheap Amazon bar-end mirrors
Looks good.
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New adjustable levers wich can be expensive in germany if you want street legal ones . Abd lowerd the dash around 2 inches
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New adjustable levers wich can be expensive in germany if you want street legal ones . Abd lowerd the dash around 2 inches
So, those look almost identical to the once I got from FXCNC (aliexpress.com) cheap$$.
What makes them legal in Deutschland and the FXCNC not?
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So, those look almost identical to the once I got from FXCNC (aliexpress.com) cheap$$.
What makes them legal in Deutschland and the FXCNC not?
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Its calles ABE wich includes a Material brake test and other stuff wich is pretty time consuming for the manufacturer . Also a predetermined breaking point
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Did check chain tension, WD40 motorcyclegreased it and had a nice ride under the sun.
The AEW 201 sounds great in high revs ...
Sorry, forgot to take pics ...
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So, those look almost identical to the once I got from FXCNC (aliexpress.com) cheap$$.
What makes them legal in Deutschland and the FXCNC not?
Everything in Germany accessory wise and OEM has to be "TUV approved" and they are very strict. Inspections every 2 years I think. Good for the rest of the world because if it's TUV approved it's high quality but makes modifications painful. Glad we don't have it.
Ciao
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Everything in Germany accessory wise and OEM has to be "TUV approved" and they are very strict. Inspections every 2 years I think. Good for the rest of the world because if it's TUV approved it's high quality but makes modifications painful. Glad we don't have it.
Ciao
Probrakes top of the line lever is allmost 210$ a set . Foldable . Lengh adjustable und tons of colors
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Got the BT46’s mounted. 110/80 and 140/70. Maybe next time I’ll try a 150 rear, just to see.
(https://i.imgur.com/l79PtPp.jpg)
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I had some time today to remix an existing chain alignment tool but adapted it for a Royal Enfield Interceptor 650.
Bolt and nut are M6 size.
The rod has a diameter of 6mm.
There are other alignment tools, but the 3D printer must also have something to do ;)
Model is free to download, see link.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5330136
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Simple and efficient, as usual simple is often the best !
Thank you for the file, I will buy a printer someday, still a bit expensive today for my use but I'm sure if I had one I will find many uses ! ;)
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Replaced the original Ceat tyres with a pair of Avon Trailriders plus a set of front HH brake pads. Like a new bike. Steers accurately with feedback and stops. Best mod I have done. Stunning difference!
Rear tyre is a 150/70 so is a tad 'tight' in clearance to the plakky chainguard. Ordered an ally one anyway tonight to swap that out. Will re-check the wheel alignment tomorrow as I don't trust those scribe and dot punch marks ;)
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Bought it a friend that some of you may recognize:
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Mort what bars; are they.? One is in the UK, +Any cable changes..?
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Mort what bars; are they.? One is in the UK, +Any cable changes..?
According to the seller "#10 Flat Track Bars"
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Replaced the original Ceat tyres with a pair of Avon Trailriders plus a set of front HH brake pads. Like a new bike. Steers accurately with feedback and stops. Best mod I have done. Stunning difference!
Rear tyre is a 150/70 so is a tad 'tight' in clearance to the plakky chainguard. Ordered an ally one anyway tonight to swap that out. Will re-check the wheel alignment tomorrow as I don't trust those scribe and dot punch marks ;)
No pic of those tires?
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I have been trying to post some pics for an hour and the site will not let me post. Given up for now.
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Bought it a friend that some of you may recognize:
Congrats. I’m glad it went to another forum member. I really love what hoghead (I think that’s whose bike that was) did with that bike.
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Congrats. I’m glad it went to another forum member. I really love what hoghead (I think that’s whose bike that was) did with that bike.
It's absolutely gorgeous in person. It's my wife's bike now and she's in love.
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Fitted foot peg relocaters for the pillion -and a backrest / rack there had been complaints …
Washed it .
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Fitted TEC Adjustable pegs (decided it was time when my knee "locked" after 40min ride!) Brake side EASY as...gear side PIA😣 NO WAY was it going to sit and align -needed some filling on frame and a touch on peg. Left it witj 20mm drop and no change to pedal/lever till I try, have 40mm in case as cheaper than shipping a 2nd order👍
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Adjusted my valve clearances yesterday, a couple were a little on the tight side but nothing terrible.
A quick, easy job on this bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/xXfahIh.jpg)
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Spent Saturday with Nathan Millward in North Devon on a Postie Bike adventure, great weather, great company and a great day out, about 70 miles of mixed riding, including some quite demanding sections at times on a 110cc Aussie postie bike, these bikes are indestructible (we did try) and are very agile off road, despite a puncture, a kick start lever disappearing and a few things coming loose the bikes performed perfectly.
If you want a good day out, value for money and to stretch your skills a bit I recommend treating yourself to an adventure down at Dorothy's Speed Shop, you won't regret it.
https://www.dorothysspeedshop.com/
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Got out for a ride after recovering from COVID and then gave the bike a nice clean
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Got out for a ride after recovering from COVID and then gave the bike a nice clean
GREAT NEWS👍
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Fitted TEC Adjustable pegs (decided it was time when my knee "locked" after 40min ride!) Brake side EASY as...gear side PIA😣 NO WAY was it going to sit and align -needed some filling on frame and a touch on peg. Left it witj 20mm drop and no change to pedal/lever till I try, have 40mm in case as cheaper than shipping a 2nd order👍
I bought the same kit late last year and only attempted to install it a few weeks ago. Spent a couple of hours trying to get either side to fit and line up and the gear side was the worst of all. Gave up in the end and threw them back in the box and will try to persevere with the OEM pegs. To fit both the pegs and the frame would need a lot of fileing. I'm not doing that.
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No pic of those tires?
Yay, pic posting is now working!
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I bought the same kit late last year and only attempted to install it a few weeks ago. Spent a couple of hours trying to get either side to fit and line up and the gear side was the worst of all. Gave up in the end and threw them back in the box and will try to persevere with the OEM pegs. To fit both the pegs and the frame would need a lot of fileing. I'm not doing that.
AGREED - in fairness to TEC I'm sure it's R.E. that has jigs OUT given most feedback is on the gearlever side. Working it with the pin through showed just where it was tight and the quantity wasn't too bad but still 😡
Peg & Pin o.k, but when it came to the spring I had to use a slightly smaller bar and wiggle from bottom and tap from the top😣 to get all 3 in alignment
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Adjusted my valve clearances yesterday, a couple were a little on the tight side but nothing terrible.
A quick, easy job on this bike.
(https://i.imgur.com/xXfahIh.jpg)
Checked mine for the third time (22,000km) - all valves were still spot on; perfect slip on size/no-go on next size up. These engines seem to be well made..
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Dropped in the uprated rear pads, took all of 5mins - Jeez that's the easiest set of pads I've changed on any vehicle I've owned👍 looking like rain for the rest of the weekend so Mon...
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Fitted some Rox risers, temporary turn signals brackets (until new headlight bracket shows up) and moved foot pegs on one.
Moved the toolkit and relocated the seat release in preparation for swapping the Zard high exhaust to my bike on the other.
Installed new swingarm spools on both.
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Fitted some Rox risers, temporary turn signals brackets (until new headlight bracket shows up) and moved foot pegs on one.
Moved the toolkit and relocated the seat release in preparation for swapping the Zard high exhaust to my bike on the other.
Installed new swingarm spools on both.
Love that exhaust 👍
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Love that exhaust 👍
I'm really glad my wife didn't so I got to steal it. 🤣🤣🤣
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I'm really glad my wife didn't so I got to steal it. 🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣
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🤣🤣🤣
It looks like I'm getting the custom 19 front 17 rear Excel rims with professionally installed tubeless conversion too. I'm a happy boy. Those two mods prob cost $2500.
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It looks like I'm getting the custom 19 front 17 rear Excel rims with professionally installed tubeless conversion too. I'm a happy boy. Those two mods prob cost $2500.
She's Definitely a "keeper" 👍 and NOT Talking about the bike👍😀
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Between the wife and I we installed new LED signals on hers (the previous owner was running a pair of those mGadget bar ends for both front and back. Made her rightfully nervous.) and began the process of swapping out the Zard Scrambler for the stock headers with a set of cheap Sportster type cans until the Dustland Mekha system that she ordered comes in.
Decided not to keep the Zard for mine. If I could snap my fingers and make it magically install itself I prob would, but I don't want it enough to spend the time removing the TEC 2-1 that's there and installing the Zard, so it's going to be for sale.
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Spring's around the corner and I've finished most of my winter projects:
Replaced the 7.5W fork oil I installed last year with 15W. (I have the YSS upgrade kit with six 6mm holes in the dampers.)
Installed Brembo front brake pads.
Replaced the stock gauges with a Daytona Velona speedo/tach. (Much thanks to axeman212 for his insights.)
Replaced the stock triple tree and Hitchcock's handlebar bridge with the Baak flat triple tree and aluminum bar clamps.
Installed the Motogadget m.lock RFID. (The Baak kit comes with an ignition relocation bracket but I didn't like the look so I went with the m.lock instead.) I didn't feel like tearing into the wiring harness so I used the ignition wiring extension that came with the Baak kit and wired the m.lock to the stock connector inside the headlight shell. Hopefully the absence of a visible ignition makes the bike a little more of a challenge to hot wire.
I installed four LEDs in the headlight shell as a substitute for the missing MIL, ABS, low voltage, and low fuel indicators but I haven't figured out how to make them work yet.
I still need to install EBC sintered pads in the back and the Stratos chain tensioner kit. I'll also use the string method to check the wheel alignment while I'm at it.
And I still have to fix the dent in the fuel tank when someone backed into my Interceptor last fall. Once that's done I'll have the tank custom painted.
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Put the new registration decals on... you know, in case the snow actually stays away for a bit! But while I was messing around back there I updated my Prism tail light with a sweet new domed lens. And just had to install Prism's classic glass license plate jewels to snazz it up a touch.
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Finished removing the Zard scrambler exhaust from the wife's bike and fitted the stock headers and cheap aftermarket cans, which actually look ok, for a temporary solution until the Dustland Mekha system shows up.
Fitted a Dart Piranha fly screen on mine, which looks amazing and officially ends my search for a decent option (took four tries!).
Then we went for a ride and found a newly laid but empty parking lot to practice slow speed maneuvers in. Fun times.
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Not today, but mainly last week... Replaced mufflers, front mudguard, tail-end and blinkers, sump guard, all from BAAK.
Previously done, mirrors, grips, tank pads, yellow headlight. Added & soon got rid of the short flyscreen, a bit too blingy and created weird vibrations over 140Kmh
Looking and sounding the way I like... Pondering a pipe wrap
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Not today, but mainly last week... Replaced mufflers, front mudguard, tail-end and blinkers, sump guard, all from BAAK.
Previously done, mirrors, grips, tank pads, yellow headlight. Added & soon got rid of the short flyscreen, a bit too blingy and created weird vibrations over 140Kmh
Looking and sounding the way I like... Pondering a pipe wrap
Very nice looking bike. The black tank with the gold stripes is perfect for the gold GT logo.
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SwissIndianContiGuy: Awesome looking bike. Wow. Those turn signals in front were almost invisible, until I zoomed in. Cool.
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Wait. What are those black things that look like bullets attached to your headlight bracket? I just noticed the flashers lower down.
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Wait. What are those black things that look like bullets attached to your headlight bracket? I just noticed the flashers lower down.
Could be wrong but they look like the "sonic" animal scarers we have in Oz for Roo's - theory is that the wind creates a noise, outside human hearing but scares the shit out if animals - could be wrong and do they work - NO idea but lots sold here🤔
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Wait. What are those black things that look like bullets attached to your headlight bracket? I just noticed the flashers lower down.
Thanks Torquey, and yes, Dickim beat me to the answer, that's exactly what they are. Any dusk riding in wooded areas here may involve close encounters with deer and smaller fauna. Also no idea if they're effective, but I haven't hit/been hit by any critters so far, so... ;D
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Thanks Torquey, and yes, Dickim beat me to the answer, that's exactly what they are. Any dusk riding in wooded areas here may involve close encounters with deer and smaller fauna. Also no idea if they're effective, but I haven't hit/been hit by any critters so far, so... ;D
Arrived in Oz in 91 and transferred to the local Rotary club, on my 1st visit I was advised that if you see a Roo - DON'T swerve as the Roo will Jump and then 50/50 - few weeks later he came with a very bent Range Rover - apparently the Roo DIDN'T MOVE🤣🤣🤣
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New Renthal Street Super Low bars on the wife's, with some cheap grips from Cycle Gear that are actually pretty nice feeling. Hopefully we're getting the ergos dialed in for her.
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Installed the Stratos chain tensioners after watching What Is The Wheel's YouTube video. Took about fifteen minutes. I replaced the torx screws supplied with the kit with stainless M8 hex screws since I don't carry torx sockets in my roadside tool kit. The kit's overpriced but provides a nice clean look. It also shaves a whopping six ounces off the weight off the bike.
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Installed the Stratos chain tensioners after watching What Is The Wheel's YouTube video.
It does look way better. That’s on my list. Have you seen the price on the Riga ones? :o
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The Riga ones still have the bolt protruding outwards, and the two stupid looking lock nuts.
They simply took a crappy looking set-up and made a different, crappy looking set up.
The Stratos really give a minimalist, clean solution!
Cookie
It does look way better. That’s on my list. Have you seen the price on the Riga ones? :o
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Arrived in Oz in 91 and transferred to the local Rotary club, on my 1st visit I was advised that if you see a Roo - DON'T swerve as the Roo will Jump and then 50/50 - few weeks later he came with a very bent Range Rover - apparently the Roo DIDN'T MOVE🤣🤣🤣
Doesn’t matter what you do with roos- chances are your reaction will be wrong. All you’ve got is brakes and luck. BTW swerving will probably see you hit a tree, post, rock, dirt verge etc.
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Doesn’t matter what you do with roos- chances are your reaction will be wrong. All you’ve got is brakes and luck. BTW swerving will probably see you hit a tree, post, rock, dirt verge etc.
Agreed - 31 yrs here and I just steer straight & yes all verges in my area are Gravel. My ex did "catch" a pair of parrots inc 1 that punched a nice hole in the grill and wedged itself and grill parts against radiator - fortunately didn't overheat and managed to glue grill together - BMW 635 parts would have been......interesting!
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Put better (stainless) washers on the rear axle, per Zimmerm's advise.
Changed brake pads for Ferodo Racing sintered pads.
Changed 15t frontsprocket for 16t sprocket.
Now waiting for better, dry weather...
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finally replaced the stock levers. i prefer these over the typical TEC ones cause the levers are also foldable (need to clean off some of the extra grease too!)
(https://i.imgur.com/6HTTGnd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CSFrAPc.jpg)
next thing is to either replace the brake pads or upgrade the brakes altogether. maybe i'll try a rebleed first, but i find the front brake to be incredibly weak and the rear brake pedal feels like total trash. feels like i'm stepping on mush.
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A little asthetic for you. Ref the front brake bar clamp, take it off and refit with the mirror tapping facing down. It tidies it up a little.
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Well, so far fitted Lucas indicators for that vintage look, removed handlebar cross bar, installed Motone up&over risers uncluttering that section. Grab rail was removed, RE fly screen installed as were adjustable clutch/brake levers . Also got a present from the UK; a triangular leather pouch that fits discreetly to the side panel.
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Would love to see pictures posted of projects, additions, deletions, etc. from your RE 650s!
Or even just cleaning, tweaking, you name it. What did you do to your bike today?
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Finally.
Tank in new color, air delete by Hitchcoks.
Emblems are going on later...
After a year of owning, the Interceptor is now just the way I wanted it.
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Well finally the weather was good enough to put 300 miles on my Bike and get the first service over with.
I am 120 miles from my nearest dealer so doing the work myself.
Completed the Oil Change (Motul 10w-50) Adjust Valves and Chain.General inspection of everything.
Did not find any major problems. Inlet Valves were a little tight so set them.
Have done quite a few mods and were done even before riding for the first time.
TEC adjustable rear shocks to lower the bike (my rear end is to close to the ground) TEC Exhaust (need some froom)
TEC Fuel booster plug, DNA High Performance Air Filter ,
Single Seat installed along with Front Fairing, Installed small clock on Fork Clamp, Installed Handle bar mirrors. Removed mud guard extensions, Removed hand rail at rear,
After riding for about 100 miles found the forward lean position uncomfortable for me so added the Fork Extensions and raised the handle bars. (much better now)
After completing the service today added the Throttle Lock to give my right hand a rest on longer trips.
Finished up with a wash and polish and ready for some riding this summer.
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Very nice indeed Joe, wish you a great summer. What's your opinion on the Tec shocks, value for money?
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Well finally the weather was good enough to put 300 miles on my Bike and get the first service over with.
I am 120 miles from my nearest dealer so doing the work myself.
Completed the Oil Change (Motul 10w-50) Adjust Valves and Chain.General inspection of everything.
Did not find any major problems. Inlet Valves were a little tight so set them.
Have done quite a few mods and were done even before riding for the first time.
TEC adjustable rear shocks to lower the bike (my rear end is to close to the ground) TEC Exhaust (need some froom)
TEC Fuel booster plug, DNA High Performance Air Filter ,
Single Seat installed along with Front Fairing, Installed small clock on Fork Clamp, Installed Handle bar mirrors. Removed mud guard extensions, Removed hand rail at rear,
After riding for about 100 miles found the forward lean position uncomfortable for me so added the Fork Extensions and raised the handle bars. (much better now)
After completing the service today added the Throttle Lock to give my right hand a rest on longer trips.
Finished up with a wash and polish and ready for some riding this summer.
Which clock did you fit? Link?
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Finally.
Tank in new color, air delete by Hitchcoks.
Emblems are going on later...
After a year of owning, the Interceptor is now just the way I wanted it.
British Racing Green Xiralic (Not metallic..!).
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Well finally the weather was good enough to put 300 miles on my Bike and get the first service over with.
I am 120 miles from my nearest dealer so doing the work myself.
Completed the Oil Change (Motul 10w-50) Adjust Valves and Chain.General inspection of everything.
Did not find any major problems. Inlet Valves were a little tight so set them.
Have done quite a few mods and were done even before riding for the first time.
TEC adjustable rear shocks to lower the bike (my rear end is to close to the ground) TEC Exhaust (need some froom)
TEC Fuel booster plug, DNA High Performance Air Filter ,
Single Seat installed along with Front Fairing, Installed small clock on Fork Clamp, Installed Handle bar mirrors. Removed mud guard extensions, Removed hand rail at rear,
After riding for about 100 miles found the forward lean position uncomfortable for me so added the Fork Extensions and raised the handle bars. (much better now)
After completing the service today added the Throttle Lock to give my right hand a rest on longer trips.
Finished up with a wash and polish and ready for some riding this summer.
Which fairing is that?
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I had previously modified a garage door opener and fitted it to a button switch that lived just above the key and below the clocks.
The modified opener lives inside the headlight shell.
This requires me to take my hand off the bars to press the button.
I also have a wire harness that plugs in between the connectors coming from the left and right bar switches and the bikes harness. This gives me headlight on/off and fog lights on/off, using a switch with those functions. The harness is plug & play with factory connectors, so no factory wiring is modified.
Today I changed my harness so that the garage door button is no longer necessary. I interrupted the headlight flash on right bar switch. It is a momentary contact closure switch so I routed it to the door opened.
I lost the flash, but I never use it, and now that switch opens my garage door and my hand does not leave to bar.
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My main reason for buying the TEC shocks was so I could lower the Bike to get my feet flatter on the ground.
I never did ride the bike with the original shocks so have nothing to compare them with but for me they work fine.
I have no complaints with them so far.
The Clock is the Stem Nut Clock from Hitchcocks for 18 British Pounds.
The Fairing is from MK Design. A bit of a pain to fit but otherwise I am satisfied with it.
I also modified the kick stand and put a riser on it which makes it easier to get the bike in an upright position
Other Mods I am going to do. Have ordered Small Engine Guard, also ordered pulsating LED brake light bulb.
As I have no where to carry anything have ordered a magnetic Tank Bag.
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My main reason for buying the TEC shocks was so I could lower the Bike to get my feet flatter on the ground.
I never did ride the bike with the original shocks so have nothing to compare them with but for me they work fine.
I have no complaints with them so far.
The Clock is the Stem Nut Clock from Hitchcocks for 18 British Pounds.
The Fairing is from MK Design. A bit of a pain to fit but otherwise I am satisfied with it.
I also modified the kick stand and put a riser on it which makes it easier to get the bike in an upright position
Other Mods I am going to do. Have ordered Small Engine Guard, also ordered pulsating LED brake light bulb.
As I have no where to carry anything have ordered a magnetic Tank Bag.
is that the baak kickstand extender?
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No as I have a Machine Shop I made the Extender myself.
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No as I have a Machine Shop I made the Extender myself.
nice!!! i feel they could sell well. i know some people do the hockey puck thing but nope not for me lol.
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Put on some black crocodile throwover saddlebags.
I love them. I do not think that would be the prevailing opinion here, however. ;D
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I installed the Motogadget glassless mirrors, which do indeed come with hardware to fit both sides of the Interceptor. A vast improvement over the Baak underbar mirrors in looks and functionality. I never liked having to look down to check the mirrors.
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finally replaced the stock levers. i prefer these over the typical TEC ones cause the levers are also foldable (need to clean off some of the extra grease too!)
(https://i.imgur.com/6HTTGnd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CSFrAPc.jpg)
ok now that i've ridden around with the levers, i don't like them lol. the brake side is fine. but the pronounced hump where the adjusters are located slightly get in the way of me using the indicator switch. i have small'ish hands and i'm finding i have to really stretch when the clutch lever is pulled in and im trying to reach the switch with my thumb. i tried moving the entire perch to the right (to move the hump over to the right and out of the way), but theres really not enough free space to do so before it hits the handlebar clamp.
the stock lever were definitely more comfortable for my hands. might switch back or find a different lever.
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You must be talking about the articulation in the middle that makes them foldable. I bought a pair from China which work fine and look simple yet comfortable. Check out the image.
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Sorry, I must have misunderstood; you mean the part where the actual adjusters are...
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I installed the Motogadget glassless mirrors, which do indeed come with hardware to fit both sides of the Interceptor. A vast improvement over the Baak underbar mirrors in looks and functionality. I never liked having to look down to check the mirrors.
What handlebars are they? And are all the cables standard?
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Those are the BAAK N°1 handlebars. I had to replace the clutch and throttle cables, extend the wiring, and remove the fuel tank so I could reroute the front brake line.
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Those are the BAAK N°1 handlebars. I had to replace the clutch and throttle cables, extend the wiring, and remove the fuel tank so I could reroute the front brake line.
Thanks but there gonna be to wide for m, Shame lovely looking bars..
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Nothing big but swapped out my original seat for the single
(https://i.imgur.com/ImQsJQk.jpg)
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new license plate in methacrylate
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British Racing Green:
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Painted my recall replacement brake calipers with black Smooth Hammerite and put RE stickers on them. Big visual improvement. I reckon there's no place for gold coloured parts on a retro, other than pinstriping. But that's only my opinion!
I'd post pics, but this site doesn't make it intuitive...
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Painted my recall replacement brake calipers with black Smooth Hammerite and put RE stickers on them. Big visual improvement. I reckon there's no place for gold coloured parts on a retro, other than pinstriping. But that's only my opinion!
I'd post pics, but this site doesn't make it intuitive...
As the Brembo Gold Line were the best ( and most expensive..!!) that Brembo had to offer during the 70's, I think the gold color looks brilliant on our retro 650's..
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As the Brembo Gold Line were the best ( and most expensive..!!) that Brembo had to offer during the 70's, I think the gold color looks brilliant on our retro 650's..
Ah, but my early (legal) bike riding days were back in the sixties.... So, my retro period is further back than yours!
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I replaced the Motone Customs headlight bracket I installed last year with an LSL knockoff I found on eBay for $45. The LSL (and its many clones like those from Baak and TEC) seems to be the bracket du jour, particularly on cafe racers, which is why I originally chose the Motone. Now that I’ve replaced the triple tree and gauge cluster and removed the ignition cylinder, the Motone bracket is too long, perching the headlight too far forward. The new one is almost an inch shorter and a little cleaner looking than the LSL, TEC or Baak versions.
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British Racing Green:
Nothing wrong with the colour but the gold and black graphics don't work and look wrong to me. It makes the tank look smaller like a peanut tank on a Harley Sportster and reduces the naturally attractive shape of the tank. The RE isn't the style of bike that requires tying in the fuel tank to the side covers with graphic lines or accents, the tank itself is basically a "stand alone" component.
Ciao
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Did not lime the SAE pigtail loose, even with zip ties.
So a little reroute, zip-tied to the rear brake mount and a much better tucked SAE and still very accessable.
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Lime??
Cookie
(yeah I know, I can't spell, or type, and auto correct is completely confused by me)
Did not lime the SAE pigtail loose, even with zip ties.
So a little reroute, zip-tied to the rear brake mount and a much better tucked SAE and still very accessable.
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Lime??
Cookie
(yeah I know, I can't spell, or type, and auto correct is completely confused by me)
Don't stress - just get out the Tequila 👍
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We just got done installing the compact engine guards on the wife's bike.
They actually look pretty damn good. I thought about grabbing a pair for myself but my 2-1 exhaust precludes that.
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Color matched front fender went on..
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Color matched front fender went on..
👍🏻 Very nice.
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Color matched front fender went on..
That looks awesome. I hope you’re doing the side panels too.
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Nothing wrong with the colour but the gold and black graphics don't work and look wrong to me. It makes the tank look smaller like a peanut tank on a Harley Sportster and reduces the naturally attractive shape of the tank. The RE isn't the style of bike that requires tying in the fuel tank to the side covers with graphic lines or accents, the tank itself is basically a "stand alone" component.
Ciao
Baker Express, Sunset Strip... ;)
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Finally cleaned my Conti after an involuntary enduro ride two weeks ago.
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Somebody moved a corner as you went round it?
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Baker Express, Sunset Strip... ;)
Yea, not a fan of those either. The Inter tank is a very nice classic shape and the horizontal stripes just detract from that form. To each his own.
Ciao
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Well l found it a depressingly boring Easter Monday so l got out my touch kit and cocktail stickes and just touched up stone chips on the lower frame l will let it dry 24 hours and then cut it down and polish it, also ordered a couple of irridium plugs l will fit next week, not that needed them l just lean on the reliability side of them.
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Yea, not a fan of those either. The Inter tank is a very nice classic shape and the horizontal stripes just detract from that form. To each his own.
Ciao
Last year, when I wanted to buy a new Interceptor, I went for the Sunset Strip, I very much liked that design.
Then I found out it was Euro 5, and not available at that time for many weeks or even months in my country.
Instead I bought a new, left over, Euro 4 Orange Crush, and decided to make my own Sunset Strip, just with a bit more retro UK orientated color...and indeed, to each his own, I really like it this way...!! Oh, and I do like the alu color wheels over the black ones a lot as well!!
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Last year, when I wanted to buy a new Interceptor, I went for the Sunset Strip, I very much liked that design.
Then I found out it was Euro 5, and not available at that time for many weeks or even months in my country.
Instead I bought a new, left over, Euro 4 Orange Crush, and decided to make my own Sunset Strip, just with a bit more retro UK orientated color...and indeed, to each his own, I really like it this way...!! Oh, and I do like the alu color wheels over the black ones a lot as well!!
Yes I as well. There was no way I was going to buy a colour scheme with black wheel rims.
Ciao
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Installed the Tec Stinger exhaust last night, and got out for a quick run with it this afternoon.
A few quick notes:
1. It's super lightweight. The previous owner of my bike replaced the factory silencers with something lighter, but left the stock front pipes. Even still, this system is significantly lighter.
2. The header drags before the foot peg feelers now. I dove into the very first hairpin turn on a local twisty road (Lookout Mountain) at my usual pace, and was surprised to hear a scraping sound, without feeling it in my foot. Upon inspection later, the outer pipe spring hook had dragged the ground.
3. The bike feels so much more comfortable at highway speeds now. I wouldn't say it's significantly more powerful, but is less hesitant to get up higher into the rev range.
Now to continue research on the S&S cam, cam degreeing, and whether or not this is something I can tackle myself...
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Installed the Tec Stinger exhaust last night, and got out for a quick run with it this afternoon.
A few quick notes:
...
2. The header drags before the foot peg feelers now. I dove into the very first hairpin turn on a local twisty road (Lookout Mountain) at my usual pace, and was surprised to hear a scraping sound, without feeling it in my foot. Upon inspection later, the outer pipe spring hook had dragged the ground.
...
Some of the track-day guys have noted the grounding of those headers.
Is your plan to just go slower through right hand turns or use less lean angle? I'm sure you know how quickly your day can change when you lever that rear wheel up.
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Some of the track-day guys have noted the grounding of those headers.
Is your plan to just go slower through right hand turns or use less lean angle? I'm sure you know how quickly your day can change when you lever that rear wheel up.
Dragging parts on the street is never the responsible thing to do, so I guess it's just a reminder to slow down until I can get to a track. I've never lifted (or unloaded) a rear wheel in a turn, so I can only imagine how unsettling that would be. I intend to keep it as only an imagination. :)
I am a bit surprised that Tec's design allows this to happen. Then again, I don't know that I would want the header much closer to the engine case.
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Dropped the bike off at the shop. Getting installed:
-Racetech stiffer front springs (i'm 240lbs in gear, often ride with a pillon, stock shocks are always a wet noodle for me)
-Hitchcocks Fork Spring pre-load adjusters
-EBC sintered brake pads front and rear
Will post a pic once done; curious to see how the pre-load adjuster look installed.
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Finally got the paintwork finished on the seat hump to match the Baker Express sceme.
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Wow Alan; super cool matching rear hump fairing there!! LOVE it!
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Finally got the paintwork finished on the seat hump to match the Baker Express sceme.
You make look easy. And it looks great!
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Finally got the paintwork finished on the seat hump to match the Baker Express sceme.
Looks fantastic!
Matching the seat cowl to tank really pulls everything together.
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Thanks, glad you all like it, I was in 2 minds whether to do it or just leave it Ice Queen white.
Next step is to shorten the rear hoop by a couple of inches to bring it under the seat. Never really understood why RE didn't do it like that.
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Got it out of the basement, wiped the dust off it, cleaned and lubed the chain, aired up the tires and went for the first ride of the season. Got the damping tuned on the YSS shocks I installed over the winter. Compression 22 out, rebound 13 out.
I'm running out of things to "improve" on this bike. I think new gauge faces marked in km/h are about the only thing left I care about.
I
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Finally got the paintwork finished on the seat hump to match the Baker Express sceme.
Looks great! Where did you get the rear light and indicators? 👍
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I peeled the yellow stickers off the back of my clocks following some advice from other posts, immediately rectified the clock misting I've had since last summer. Done few rides since and it's not come back.
Thanks for the tip!
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I peeled the yellow stickers off the back of my clocks following some advice from other posts, immediately rectified the clock misting I've had since last summer. Done few rides since and it's not come back.
Need to do that as well. Mine fog up like no-foggers-business. Any potential negative consequences?
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Took her out for a 5-hour ride with some "besties".
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Need to do that as well. Mine fog up like no-foggers-business. Any potential negative consequences?
I think some folks were concerned with ingress of dust/moisture/insects etc. This seemed to be countered with the argument its unlikely to be anymore damaging than the moisture that's in there already. I feel happy to take the risk and I don't like having an issue that's so visible to me when I ride, I find it distracting.
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Took her out for a 5-hour ride with some "besties".
Geez_ Rock Band Album Cover
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I peeled the yellow stickers off the back of my clocks following some advice from other posts, immediately rectified the clock misting I've had since last summer. Done few rides since and it's not come back.
Thanks for the tip!
There is another ‘back’ to the gauge cluster, where the connector actually plugs in. This is the one that is screwed into the outer shell with the glass over the gauges. It had a rubber gasket. I don’t know what those yellow stickers do, but there is a seal between them and the back of the cluster glass.
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Here she is, almost all of my modifications are done. Nuke exhaust, DNA air filter, TEC adjustable footpegs, shorty adjustable levers, single seat and cowl, removed passenger footpegs and rear bar. Just need to replace those atrocious tires with BT 46’s
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removed the adjustable levers and put stock ones back on. i guess i have small hands cause the 'hump' in the adjustable levers doesnt let my hand comfortably reach the turn signal indicators when i pull the clutch lever all the way to the handlebar. not a problem if my riding is mostly country rides buts its annoying in the city when i have to constantly use the turn signal at slower speeds.
tbh i mostly switched them cause i prefer black levers. the stock reach is fine. maybe i'll find another pair or just somehow paint these ones.
(https://i.imgur.com/6j3TxpO.jpg)
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I peeled the yellow stickers off the back of my clocks following some advice from other posts, immediately rectified the clock misting I've had since last summer. Done few rides since and it's not come back.
Thanks for the tip!
I did this 3 or 4 months back, with no ill effect. I haven't seen the dreaded mist since.
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I did this 3 or 4 months back, with no ill effect. I haven't seen the dreaded mist since.
Thank you. Task for tomorrow.
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Took her out for a 5-hour ride with some "besties".
That's a great photo! The chrome helmet on the front classic is a bit crazy, you could check your technique as you follow him. Sunglare could be an issue!
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There is another ‘back’ to the gauge cluster, where the connector actually plugs in. This is the one that is screwed into the outer shell with the glass over the gauges. It had a rubber gasket. I don’t know what those yellow stickers do, but there is a seal between them and the back of the cluster glass.
This is interesting, I saw you'd dismantled the clocks so you know more than most about the inner assembly. All I can say is that it does seem to have worked.
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Thank you. Task for tomorrow.
Done. Let's see if the fogging problem is resolved now.
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That's a great photo! The chrome helmet on the front classic is a bit crazy, you could check your technique as you follow him. Sunglare could be an issue!
He was our guide. Knows how to throw his Classic around corners. His motto is "80 on the straights, 80 in the corners". ;)
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(http://)Hi
I fitted the cooperb fork adaptors off ebay to the top of the forks today .
Easy job and ive attached some photos , its far more comfy on the back now when riding .
All you do is take off the top triple tree and headlight bolts ,move the clipons and refit .
Cheers
Dave from Scotland
assuming you still have these on your bike, how stable have they been?
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Fitted the Dustland Mekha exhaust to the wife's bike. Took a bit of fiddling, but not too bad. It looks awesome and has a nice bark to it without being ridiculously loud.
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Collected & fitted lifting handle and put on Ctr Stand for 1st time, no issue (but C5 easier) MX5 (Miatta) crapped it's battery so replaced, then with a couple of mates hung a 5.5m roller door- left shoulder now LOWER but balances SHORTER right leg (Rugby Damaged) so All Good for when the Healey arrives from paint shop👍
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Went for a ride, got a notification that the Interceptor 'premium' touring seat showed up so I swung back by the house and slapped it on. My butt loves it as much as it hates Taco Bell.
Realized on my ride that while I love the LOOK of the little 2.5" bar end mirrors I hate the way I have to duck down to see in them so I pulled them off and fitted a set of DoubleTake ADV mirrors I had sitting on a shelf. They look pretty good and the rear view is MUCH better.
I really need to take a minute to park them both somewhere and take some pics. Maybe Saturday.
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Looks great! Where did you get the rear light and indicators? 👍
The light unit is from BAAK and the indicators are Moto gadget M-Blaze. Smallest and brightest I could find. The fronts are M-Blaze too and they are mounted on brackets attached to the underside of the lowest triple tree clamp. It has tapped holes (M6?) on the underside which would normally be used to mount the Indian front number plate I think.
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From Ace hardware. 1/2" long, 5/32" chrome spacers for the chain tensioners to cover the threads. Also 3 5/32" chrome plugs for the front fender where I had removed the mud guard extension.
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From Ace hardware. 1/2" long, 5/32" chrome spacers for the chain tensioners to cover the threads. Also 3 5/32" chrome plugs for the front fender where I had removed the mud guard extension.
Please share more about those plugs. Are the just in the parts bins at Ace?
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Yes just in the nuts and bolts. Chrome bins section. I put a dab of gorilla on just in case but they snapped in pretty tightly.
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Yes just in the nuts and bolts. Chrome bins section. I put a dab of gorilla on just in case but they snapped in pretty tightly.
Excellent. Thank you.
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Got the BT46’s mounted. 110/80 and 140/70. Maybe next time I’ll try a 150 rear, just to see.
(https://i.imgur.com/l79PtPp.jpg)
Is that a Chrome cowl? If so did you buy it, paint it or wrap it?
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Is that a Chrome cowl? If so did you buy it, paint it or wrap it?
Answered my question by looking at your earlier posts.
Looks great btw
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Here's is the photo. It's hard to see any difference but it's there.
You need 2 M6 nut couplers and a small length of M6 threaded rod. Cut the rod to make 2 small pieces that screw the couplers together. Now screw the couplers back onto the gauge stud and attach the brackets.
The gauge stud angles down so the extra length on the couplers pushes the top mounting bracket forward and down just a little, but enough to move the windscreen.
Looks like a great mod to the C-racer fairing, how long are the coupling nuts? Any pics of the install?
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Looks like a great mod to the C-racer fairing, how long are the coupling nuts? Any pics of the install?
Im on vacation, but Ill measure when I get back and post. The coupler I bought was identical to the one supplied with the fairing, so I doubled the length.
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Today I finally got around to installing and testing the fork brace that I bought from Hog Head.
Uninterrupted time slots have been hard to come by but today I suddenly had a lot of time while plumbers replaced the pipes in one end of my house >:(
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31421.msg378858#msg378858 (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31421.msg378858#msg378858)
So I went to a particular section that is a medium sweeper with long view lines. I rode it both ways a couple of times with OEM fork brace. Then came back and loosened axle pinch bolt and removed the stock fork brace. Nothing seemed to move from being bound up which made me glad. Then installed the new brace and went back out (plumbers go to lunch). I rode the section again and again applied the brakes mid turn as I had in the morning. Then I did another two way pass and really laid on the brakes and from a touch faster entry.
Very pleased with the new brace. I had become comfortable with the OEM set up, (tires and Andreani cartridge forks). So while nothing was really wrong before ... it was less wrong with the stiffer brace. The difference was minor but that minor increase in steadiness is a good friend to have.
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Today I finally got around to installing and testing the fork brace that I bought from Hog Head.
Uninterrupted time slots have been hard to come by but today I suddenly had a lot of time while plumbers replaced the pipes in one end of my house >:(
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31421.msg378858#msg378858 (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=31421.msg378858#msg378858)
So I went to a particular section that is a medium sweeper with long view lines. I rode it both ways a couple of times with OEM fork brace. Then came back and loosened axle pinch bolt and removed the stock fork brace. Nothing seemed to move from being bound up which made me glad. Then installed the new brace and went back out (plumbers go to lunch). I rode the section again and again applied the brakes mid turn as I had in the morning. Then I did another two way pass and really laid on the brakes and from a touch faster entry.
Very pleased with the new brace. I had become comfortable with the OEM set up, (tires and Andreani cartridge forks). So while nothing was really wrong before ... it was less wrong with the stiffer brace. The difference was minor but that minor increase in steadiness is a good friend to have.
Interesting, I've been thinking about fork stiffness lately. There's a particular off-camber corner at the bottom of the hill I live with a steep entry. I went into it a bit hot last weekend and could feel the fork tucking as I trail braked round it. Wasn't a nice feeling. I wonder if that brace would help...
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I’ve never posted to this thread but thought I’d catch up and list a few things I’ve done to my 2022 Mark II Interceptor, purchased at the end of Sept. 2021.
Removed a few things - handlebar brace, pillion foot-pegs, plastic extensions of front and rear mudfguards, grab rail, center stand (may put it back on for a trip this summer).
Added: Motone tank pads, handlebar clock, rear rack with “enhanced” tool kit, RE sump guard and compact engine guard bars.
Installed 16T CS sprocket, Hagon rear shocks, YSS front fork upgrade kit, AEW 201 “peashooter” silencers.
Installed LED bulbs in headlight and tailight.
Swapped INT sidepanels for Interceptor sidepanels.
Swapped seat for RE touring seat.
Installed Booster Plug.
Installed Air Intake delete kit.
Installed heated grips, wrapped grips with bicycle grip tape for improved comfort.
Installed 20 mm handlebar risers.
Installed adjustable levers from Hitchcocks.
Replaced OEM brake pads with EBC HH pads.
Installed RE chrome front brake reservoir cover.
Replaced clutch cable with Venthill cable.
Installed NGK CR8E plugs.
That’s about all I can think of right now. I have a set of Bridgestone Balltlax BT46 I’m going to mount next, and may do the tubeless conversion at the same time. I’ll be doing my 6000 mile service this month and will change the tires then. I know it’s overkill but I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles, and the plugs and air filter every 6000. Nobody ever said I wasn’t a fussbudget.
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Interesting, I've been thinking about fork stiffness lately. There's a particular off-camber corner at the bottom of the hill I live with a steep entry. I went into it a bit hot last weekend and could feel the fork tucking as I trail braked round it. Wasn't a nice feeling. I wonder if that brace would help...
It won't absolve you from the laws of physics ... but yeah going into a off-camber or downhill corner under aggressive braking ... is exactly where the margin between success and failure is the thinnest. It certainly isn't needed but it avoids the feeling you describe. Thus / ergo / therefore, one less distraction when you need concentration. ;)
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Yes I as well. There was no way I was going to buy a colour scheme with black wheel rims.
Ciao
Yeah, I’m not keen on them.
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Got around to installing my lithium battery.
I was going to post a weight comparison but my digital bathroom scale isn't sensitive enough to score the new one. It called out the original battery at 11 pounds.
_ The weight savings had already been spent on crash bars and luggage rack ;).
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Got around to installing my lithium battery.
I was going to post a weight comparison but my digital bathroom scale isn't sensitive enough to score the new one. It called out the original battery at 11 pounds.
_ The weight savings had already been spent on crash bars and luggage rack ;).
Most of us in this situation just step on the scale note our weight then pick up the lithium battery note the increase in the reading and do the maths.
Ciao
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Most of us in this situation just step on the scale note our weight then pick up the lithium battery note the increase in the reading and do the maths.
Ciao
Thanks Phil! 171 then 171
I was so despondent I asked Siri, "Why don't women like me?" The reply: "This is Alexa."
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I painted the engraved letters on the covers.
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Most of us in this situation just step on the scale note our weight then pick up the lithium battery note the increase in the reading and do the maths.
Ciao
Thats how I weigh my cat….
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I painted the engraved letters on the covers.
Looks very nice. I’m no artist, but, pray tell, how did you do it? What paint, prep, etc. I’d like to try.
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Thanks Phil! 171 then 171
I was so despondent I asked Siri, "Why don't women like me?" The reply: "This is Alexa."
God what sort of scales do you have. Mine have a resolution of 100gms.
Ciao
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God what sort of scales do you have. Mine have a resolution of 100gms.
Ciao
Geez Phil, you quoted me in bold ""... but my digital bathroom scale isn't sensitive enough to score the new one.... ""
Maybe bathroom scales are called something else in other versions of English.
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I made a very simple mod to the rear fender extension to facilitate removing the wheel. I am using my interceptor as a touring bike and have to be able to repair punctures on the road. Reading the owners manual for the wheel removal procedure it states the tire must be 6" above the ground. This is a non starter on the road. You could dig a hole under it if you are in the dirt, but I needed a better approach. The problem seems to be the length of the plastic fender extension. I am not going to eliminate it. I like it. It is attached with 4 screws and the 2 in the middle are threaded into the taillight bracket, no nuts, no problem. I removed them and pulled the wires from the rear 2 stays under the fender. Then with a cut off wheel in a die grinder cut a 1/4" wide slot so that the wires will slip out from the extender piece. It's plastic. Tin snips, dremel tool or your choice. Put the wires back into the stays and the extender can be removed easily for wheel removal. And there is a lot of room now.
Removal of the wheel should start with removing the ABS pickup below the caliper. Mine has only .030" clearance with the ABS ring. It could be easily damaged. Watch out here, because there is a tiny sheet metal shim that will fall out. In the grass you would never find that sucker. The other thing is to remove only the rear bolt from the chain guard. The guard is very flexible and will give you a bunch more room for removing the chain from the sprocket. I push the caliper as far to the left as possible to get max clearance of the pads and disk. Remember it will take 2 full pedals to have brakes.
With the axle out and wheel full forward the caliper will disengage from the swing arm slide, but it does no good because the hoses are streched so far that the caliper is locked in position. Just push it forward on the slide and the wheel will roll out the back. This was all performed on a level shop floor.
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I painted the letters on my engine as well. I used duplicolor caliper paint in gloss black (not the spray can), followed Stewart Fillinghams video. I found the paint a little tricky to use, whilst it didn't come out super smooth from a standing distance it is fine. Hardest part, cleaning the letters. Bits of dirt get into the corners, I used cotton buds and bits of cloth over a sharp pointed bit of wood to dig the grime out. 6 months later and it is still in place. I painted the front caliper, hmmmm its a bit too shiny the gloss black and I would certainly do it with a minimum of 22c day. My day was just on minimum temp and the paint didnt want to set. Anyway, I just don't like the gold calipers on a retro bike.
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Got around to installing my lithium battery.
I was going to post a weight comparison but my digital bathroom scale isn't sensitive enough to score the new one. It called out the original battery at 11 pounds.
_ The weight savings had already been spent on crash bars and luggage rack ;).
What battery did you use? Source? I had one in a previous bike but haven’t done it in my new Interceptor yet.
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What battery did you use? Source? I had one in a previous bike but haven’t done it in my new Interceptor yet.
It is a YTX14-BS-Lithium-ion-Battery
You will see them branded under various names like MMG. Amazon has them https://www.amazon.com/YTX14-BS-Lithium-Sealed-Battery-Powerful/dp/B01G7SES24 (https://www.amazon.com/YTX14-BS-Lithium-Sealed-Battery-Powerful/dp/B01G7SES24)
They are typically spec'd as a ATV quad battery. About $115 uds. You can see that the photos are all the same and the have the little push button "Condition Test".
They are physically smaller and come with a foam pad to fill up the unused space so the rubber strap works. (I always say that I'll get a shorter strap and use the extra space for something ...)
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Thanks for the info and the link. I recall that the one I had before (for another Interceptor) was the Pulse P.14 from S&S cycle. It had the “emergency start” button (which I never needed but seemed like it could come in handy). More expensive, though - I take it that most of them don’t have this feature. I’ll have to think about it. Maybe I should have kept it when I sold the bike. :D
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I painted the engraved letters on the covers.
Nice job. How do you keep covers so clean and shiny?
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It is a YTX14-BS-Lithium-ion-Battery
…
They are physically smaller and come with a foam pad to fill up the unused space so the rubber strap works. (I always say that I'll get a shorter strap and use the extra space for something ...)
Where is the extra space, on top or the sides?
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Where is the extra space, on top or the sides?
The height, when viewed in the normal orientation. I should have measured it, sorry. But it is about 2 inches shorter and fractionally smaller around the perimeter. As a rectangle, maybe a third smaller overall.
As for capturing some extra space ... keep in mind that these batteries can be mounted "on-end" or at any angle or orientation. Mind you the OEM cables are what they are but they aren't as tight as some brands.
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Looks very nice. I’m no artist, but, pray tell, how did you do it? What paint, prep, etc. I’d like to try.
Stuart Fillingham has a great youtube video on how to do this https://youtu.be/J6Ei5cqzfsk
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Fitted some grip puppys, did not test them yet so i wonder about the difference that they make
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The height, when viewed in the normal orientation. I should have measured it, sorry. But it is about 2 inches shorter and fractionally smaller around the perimeter. As a rectangle, maybe a third smaller overall.
As for capturing some extra space ... keep in mind that these batteries can be mounted "on-end" or at any angle or orientation. Mind you the OEM cables are what they are but they aren't as tight as some brands.
Thanks. I’m looking for some space down there. I currently have a DVR, with its cables and an extra relay & its cables for driving lights under the seat.
It’s getting crowded!
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Stuart Fillingham has a great youtube video on how to do this https://youtu.be/J6Ei5cqzfsk
Thanks. I think he said he has done a lot of detailing, and this doesn’t look like it’s too difficult.
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Thanks. I’m looking for some space down there. I currently have a DVR, with its cables and an extra relay & its cables for driving lights under the seat.
It’s getting crowded!
I know what you mean. Here is a photo. This battery is from one of my other bikes but the carcass is the same. About 2.5 in difference.
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I know what you mean. Here is a photo. This battery is from one of my other bikes but the carcass is the same. About 2.5 in difference.
Thanks, that looks like a nice increase in useable space.
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Thanks, that looks like a nice increase in useable space.
Yeah. I don't personally know anyone who has mounted one of these new batteries on their end, etc. But all the experts say you can and it makes perfect sense that you can. But for someone like me it feels a bit like eating a pet. ;)
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I painted the front caliper, hmmmm its a bit too shiny the gloss black and I would certainly do it with a minimum of 22c day. My day was just on minimum temp and the paint didnt want to set. Anyway, I just don't like the gold calipers on a retro bike.
Damm, looks like i'll have to wait till spring!! i'll be doing mine red when i get around to do it.
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Thanks. I think he said he has done a lot of detailing, and this doesn’t look like it’s too difficult.
I used red Por15 caliper paint purchased from Amazon in a small can to paint the side cover engraving. Stu Fillingham used a #6 artist brush but I used a #4. He also applied 5 or 6 coats but the Por15 paint is thick. I applied 2 coats. The time consuming part was wet sanding the scratches and polishing the side case. It has stayed perfect for over a year.
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Fitted some grip puppys, did not test them yet so i wonder about the difference that they make
They’re great. No more hand cramps for me.
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Fitted some grip puppys, did not test them yet so i wonder about the difference that they make
Mounted them as well and removed them after the second ride. It felt like I lost contact with the bike. Now I just have some bigger radius rubber grips.
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Mounted them as well and removed them after the second ride. It felt like I lost contact with the bike. Now I just have some bigger radius rubber grips.
2nd ride? That’s a quick assessment.
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Took off the Dustland slip-ons and mounted AEW 201's. Sweet deep sound like my old Bonnie. (Of course I removed the DB killers).
And because they come apart, I can always re-pack them. Sound great and look great. The Dustland had 42mm final pipe exit and the AEW's are 41mm. No difference in performance at all.
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Great looking bike. Is that a vinyl transfer on the tank and did you get it from Hitchcock’s?
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I found the tank lettering on-line in India. Actually, it's a logo for an old Bullit. But I had to replace that silly looking plastic OEM badge.
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The INT650 is IN the shop! Getting done:
-Hitchcocks Air Injection Delete kit
Front forks:
-Racetech springs (stiffer)
-Racetech emulator kit
-Hitchcocks pre-load adjusters.
I'll post a pic or two when i get it back later this week. REALLY looking forward to having stiffer and adjustable springs up front!
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The INT650 is IN the shop! Getting done:
-Hitchcocks Air Injection Delete kit
Front forks:
-Racetech springs (stiffer)
-Racetech emulator kit
-Hitchcocks pre-load adjusters.
I'll post a pic or two when i get it back later this week. REALLY looking forward to having stiffer and adjustable springs up front!
Is this your dealership or someone else? Racetech recommends drilling 6mm holes in the dampers. Is this part of the work the shop is doing?
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The INT650 is IN the shop! Getting done:
-Hitchcocks Air Injection …
Just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the air injection delete?
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Just out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the air injection delete?
From Hitchcocks.
AIR INJECTION DELETE KIT, 650 INTERCEPTOR & 650 CONTINENTAL GT
The air injection system (AIS) routes fresh air from the airbox to the exhaust system in order to aid in the combustion of unburnt fuel. This system is designed to improve emissions on stock exhaust systems.
This plug and play kit, removes all the clutter associated with this system, and is a great addition if an aftermarket exhaust system has been fitted.
Note, Euro 5 spec 650 Twins did not have the air injection kit fitted and this kit is not required for these bikes (see images on how to identify this).
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So it ‘removed clutter’
But also removes the function of burning unburnt fuel in exhaust, and increases emissions?
Seems like not a good thing.
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So it ‘removed clutter’
But also removes the function of burning unburnt fuel in exhaust, and increases emissions?
Seems like not a good thing.
I've no position on removing the AI one way or another, it's a passive system and really doesn't affect much, but the factory deleted it on the next gen/Euro 5 twins so they must have figured it was superfluous.
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Howdy gang. New member, been lurking for a couple weeks, pretty much my first post.
Bought a new Conti 650 GT last month. Have a long list of minor and not-so-minor modifications i'm planning/considering, but holding off a few months til I get some good miles in and confirm shes all happy as is. Or at least thats the idea if I can manage to constrain myself.
Today I made my first _very_ minor adjustments, replacing the mirrors with Motogadget m.View Spy Glassless bar end mirrors, and installing what I hope will be a waterproof garage door opener.
- Ordered one of these (waterproof?) momentary switches off of amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SWBL6VJ/
- Soldered the wires to a JST connector since I don't have any waterproof connectors small enough to pass through the headlight port
- 3:1 heat shrink the leads, then cable
- Shucked an extra garage door remote, installed fresh battery
- Soldered the other end of the JST to the button pads on the remote, tested
- Gobbed some elec safe RTV at the pads/wires for a bit of strain relief and moisture protection
- Wrapped it all up in some etape, tested
- Mounted momentary switch on the clutch lever mount between its hex bolt and the now blank mirror mount with the VHB it came with. (I expect this will need a better mounting solution, but it seems ok for the moment. Curious how it will handle Texas heat.)
- Routed the wire down the clutch sensor cable in to the headlight housing, zip-tying at first and last but matching slack of the existing route.
- Connected JST inside the headlight housing, mummified the hell out of the connection with etape
- Realized I should probably label it in case someone else runs across it working on the bike, then thought I should take photos to make a post here
- Stuck a spot of VHB on the upper inside of the headlight housing and pressed the mummified remote in to it.
- Closed up, tested.
crit/suggestions welcome
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Howdy gang. New member, been lurking for a couple weeks, pretty much my first post.
Bought a new Conti 650 GT last month. Have a long list of minor and not-so-minor modifications i'm planning/considering, but holding off a few months til I get some good miles in and confirm shes all happy as is. Or at least thats the idea if I can manage to constrain myself.
Today I made my first _very_ minor adjustments, replacing the mirrors with Motogadget m.View Spy Glassless bar end mirrors, and installing what I hope will be a waterproof garage door opener.
- Ordered one of these (waterproof?) momentary switches off of amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SWBL6VJ/
- Soldered the wires to a JST connector since I don't have any waterproof connectors small enough to pass through the headlight port
- 3:1 heat shrink the leads, then cable
- Shucked an extra garage door remote, installed fresh battery
- Soldered the other end of the JST to the button pads on the remote, tested
- Gobbed some elec safe RTV at the pads/wires for a bit of strain relief and moisture protection
- Wrapped it all up in some etape, tested
- Mounted momentary switch on the clutch lever mount between its hex bolt and the now blank mirror mount with the VHB it came with. (I expect this will need a better mounting solution, but it seems ok for the moment. Curious how it will handle Texas heat.)
- Routed the wire down the clutch sensor cable in to the headlight housing, zip-tying at first and last but matching slack of the existing route.
- Connected JST inside the headlight housing, mummified the hell out of the connection with etape
- Realized I should probably label it in case someone else runs across it working on the bike, then thought I should take photos to make a post here
- Stuck a spot of VHB on the upper inside of the headlight housing and pressed the mummified remote in to it.
- Closed up, tested.
crit/suggestions welcome
Howdy and welcome, XedMada. I like your first post - nice work - keep em coming! My garage remote is on my key fob so I need to take my hand off the handlebar to activate it while idling up the drive, which sometimes results in motor cutting out because of dicky ignition switch 😠 You shoudda made video and post link here 😅
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With all of those gold colored accents, why not paint in the lettering on the engine case with gold as well?
Cookie
Took off the Dustland slip-ons and mounted AEW 201's. Sweet deep sound like my old Bonnie. (Of course I removed the DB killers).
And because they come apart, I can always re-pack them. Sound great and look great. The Dustland had 42mm final pipe exit and the AEW's are 41mm. No difference in performance at all.
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Howdy and welcome, XedMada. I like your first post - nice work - keep em coming! My garage remote is on my key fob so I need to take my hand off the handlebar to activate it while idling up the drive, which sometimes results in motor cutting out because of dicky ignition switch 😠 You shoudda made video and post link here 😅
Yeah, really don't like extra bulk on the key ring either.
After taking it for another ride this morning i'm already thinking of relocating the switch to the right handle bar. When approaching i'm holding the clutch, and while I can still hit it with my thumb, it would probably be easier to accomplish on the right hand as I can be fully off the throttle.
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Repurposed the ‘flash’ switch on the left handlebar. It is momentary contact and I never ‘Flash’ my lights.
Now I don’t take my hands off bar to open garage.
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Repurposed the ‘flash’ switch on the left handlebar. It is momentary contact and I never ‘Flash’ my lights.
Now I don’t take my hands off bar to open garage.
Genius! Much simpler solution i'm kicking myself for not thinking of before hand 😅
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Repurposed the ‘flash’ switch on the left handlebar. It is momentary contact and I never ‘Flash’ my lights.
Now I don’t take my hands off bar to open garage.
Brilliant! Will you tell us how you accomplished this?
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bough a cheap kickstand extender and wanted to install it but the bottom seems really dumb lol. they have the bolt heads just sticking out on the bottom instead of laying flush. wish they had shown that angle on ebay or else i would have never bought it. now i guess i'll see if i can modify it so it can take countersunk bolts instead.
(https://i.imgur.com/vqCZsOa.jpg)
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Brilliant! Will you tell us how you accomplished this?
NOTE: I always use spare parts for modifications.
I bought a spare switch from ebay, mainly
because it has an emergency flasher switch
that stock does not. Original switch packed
away with other stock parts for next owner.
Take switch off handlebars by removing two screws. The switch will split into two sections.
You can now see the flash switch has two wires soldered to it. Desolder them with an iron, put shrink tube (or electrical tape if you must) on the wire ends you removed.
Solder two new wires leading to your garage door opener. I ran the new wires through wire loom and added a connector before the opener but still inside the headlight shell.
Thats all it takes.
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2nd ride? That’s a quick assessment.
That's 10 hours of riding, at least.
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Replaced the right side saddle cowling mount nut (which is M5 internal M10 external in case anyone was wondering) with a 1/4-20 D-Ring bolt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081Q3T65Y). Took a double washer stack on the outside to get it secured properly without looking awful, as well as double nut spacing and washer on the interior with some loctite.
Idea is just to use it as a convenient clip for my helmet when parked, not really strong enough for me to trust it as a lashing mount for anything while riding.
I’ve also been playing around with OD swivel mounts bases and different studs used for rifle slings (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/stores/JIALITTE/page/5BD68143-90C7-4D88-A70B-FA557C36FE2D) but haven’t really figured out a reasonable solution that wouldn’t require questionable modifications to my helmet or its strap. May also try mounting some on the underside of the rear frame where the back pillion grab bar bolt holes are to use as quick release studs for a bag.
(also yes, I should replace my helmet and not let the new one just roll around on the pavement ;D )
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I've no position on removing the AI one way or another, it's a passive system and really doesn't affect much, but the factory deleted it on the next gen/Euro 5 twins so they must have figured it was superfluous.
AFAIK the Euro 5 bikes have a quite different engine management system made by a different manufacturer. Just because it doesn't use AI doesn't necessarily mean the Euro 4 bikes don't need it. Vehicle manufacturers are not known for spending money on emissions systems that don't help the vehicle pass emissions.
I have no specific data whatsoever to back this up, but I wouldn't be terribly surprised if the AI interacts with the catalysts, and deletion might have a negative effect on catalyst operation and life. Just bringing that up in case it might be a consideration, and because I have a pedantic streak.
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Fitted a pair of Hagon 2810 rear shocks today. If weather is OK tomorrow will try them out. I'm not expecting a huge difference over standard, I put them on mainly because they are more Retro looking than than the standard issue.
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Took wheels to get new rubber (Shinko 230s) yesterday and swapped out the 19" front/17" rear with stock 18/18s today.
I wouldn't have a problem doing it again in the future, but that was not a fun job the first time.
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Got the bike back with:
-Air injection delete kit installed to clean things up a bit
-Race tech shocks and emulator cartridges, hitchcocks pre-load adjusters. The verdict is out; seems better/stiffer so far but i think i need to add a bit of pre-load for the effect i'm looking for.
-Also (and sadly) one of my Tec Bike Parts Chrome "Slug" style indicators shook it's cover off somewhere out on the road. Emailed them to order a replacement, and going to use some Blue Loctite on all four sooner rather than later so this doesn't happen again. Have the Led with two pieces of scotch tape holding it in currently....lol
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-Race tech shocks and emulator cartridges, hitchcocks pre-load adjusters. The verdict is out; seems better/stiffer so far but i think i need to add a bit of pre-load for the effect i'm looking for.
Don't forget you can also add compression damping on the emulator now. Did you see how the emulator valve was seated on the damper rod? Did they make adapter cups and mill a flat seat on the rod?
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Don't forget you can also add compression damping on the emulator now. Did you see how the emulator valve was seated on the damper rod? Did they make adapter cups and mill a flat seat on the rod?
I'm not sure. Apparently the shop did everything "by the books" based on the installation videos on Racetechs website. They did the spacer cutting and hole drilling and cross drilling as required; so i hope they did the above as well. I didn't realize you could do compression damping on the emulator also; may have to open it back up and do that as a last resort if the fork tube top pre-load adjusters aren't enough.
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I'm not sure. Apparently the shop did everything "by the books" based on the installation videos on Racetechs website. They did the spacer cutting and hole drilling and cross drilling as required; so i hope they did the above as well. I didn't realize you could do compression damping on the emulator also; may have to open it back up and do that as a last resort if the fork tube top pre-load adjusters aren't enough.
Changing preload won't affect stiffness at all. All it will do is affect the amount of fork travel you have before the forks bottom out. Preload just puts more distance between the top of the spring and the top of the fork, so the fork is more extended. It doesn't change the amount that the spring is compressed, except in the case when the fork is fully extended (topped out).
If you want to change stiffness you need to use different springs, different fork oil, or adjust the screws on the emulators.
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Changed headlight mounts and added LED headlight.
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I'm not sure. Apparently the shop did everything "by the books" based on the installation videos on Racetechs website. They did the spacer cutting and hole drilling and cross drilling as required; so i hope they did the above as well. I didn't realize you could do compression damping on the emulator also; may have to open it back up and do that as a last resort if the fork tube top pre-load adjusters aren't enough.
It's not that hard to adjust the valves - can do one leg at a time, or support the front of the bike and do both. Just have to remove spacers & springs, and fish them out of the oil (use a suitably long parts grabber or magnetic pickup tool). ½ a turn makes quite a difference.
Aside from spring-rate, other tuning can be done with oil viscosity and changing air-gap (oil height).
Welcome to the world of suspension phaffing ;D
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It's not that hard to adjust the valves - can do one leg at a time, or support the front of the bike and do both. Just have to remove spacers & springs, and fish them out of the oil (use a suitably long parts grabber or magnetic pickup tool). ½ a turn makes quite a difference.
Aside from spring-rate, other tuning can be done with oil viscosity and changing air-gap (oil height).
Welcome to the world of suspension phaffing ;D
Yup /\ that.
I might add a suggestion to be prepared for dripping oil from the springs. Personally, I keep a package of puppy training pads in stock for oil, brake fluid etc. ;)
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Mounted small saddlebags, tank pads, and velcro'd a small clock to the dash. Tried to post a couple of 4 MB pics but the gears just turn and turn....
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Mounted small saddlebags, tank pads, and velcro'd a small clock to the dash. Tried to post a couple of 4 MB pics but the gears just turn and turn....
Forum's picky. Sometimes it's easier just to link to an image host.
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More of a compilation of what I've done.
Puig universal windshield
Cheap'n nasty ebay bar end mirrors and bar ends that I "machined" to fit
RE touring seat
AEW 101 mufflers
Plus removed the mudguard extenders and whoopie bar on the back.
Have a full set of mini led indicators to fit at some stage and a small 'retro' taillight/tidy that I might not. Don't think there will be a lot more to look at, maybe a LED headlight and progressive forksprings down the track.
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I finally got around to doing something about the foot rests on my 2020 continental GT.
I like the position of the footpegs, but not how far out from the bike my foot is positioned. I have looked at aftermarket rearsets, like K Speed, but never quite happy with what I see. And, I hate buying stuff over the internet, because I cannot check build quality first.
So, I decided to build my own. Almost all of what you see is done using hand power tools. (except the bearing housing on the brake lever)
All aly is 6061 T6, very standard.
I started off with two small pieces of 8mm aluminium about 100mm long and 25mm wide, and beveled them across the short side. These become the bolsters to get the main plates back in line with the bike.
Then I cut the pieces that look a bit like a lamb chop, out of 12mm aly. Then remove about 4mm of material from the top half, leaving it 8mm thick. This can also be done with a mill at your local machine shop.
I'll do the photos in two lots. Attached are the first three.
I have ordered a pair of footpegs from cognito moto, but they haven't arived yet, so I am stalled.
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Here are the second set of photos, including me holding a crappy footpeg in aprox the place I expect the real ones to go.
Oh, and the toe tip on the brake lever is woodcraft. The only thing I had to buy.
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Nice work!
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Amazing. Guessing this was not your first try at machining?
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Mounted my Hagon (360mm) shocks and installed the EBC rear sintered pads. Shocks are retro cool and have more adjustment than stock. The rear brake finally feels like I have a rear brake!
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Got a blue tooth tire pressure monitoring system. Going to take some practice to get the pressure correct when removing them to add air. It's putting them back on that takes some time and ends up a bit low. Over fill and put 'em on again oops almost right. Again. Looking forward to getting the hang of it.
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Amazing. Guessing this was not your first try at machining?
Cut the proto out with an angle grinder and flap disk.
I got the lower lobe in the wrong spot, so recut, and got my Mate Ed to machine the top part off, and re machine the wedges as I made the first ones out of 6mm but remade out of 8mm. It is amazing how far out of square the footpeg mounts were on this model.
Machining was a lot quicker and a lot less post work.
Spot facing with home made drill bit is a bit average- should've got those machined instead of grinding down a 16mm drill bit
I will probably redo the brake pedal as it is on the limit of minimum adjustment.
I still need to take some material of the sliders.
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I rode it, until it started raining non-stop! Then I ordered large polished stainless engine guards (Ebay from India) and chromed highway pegs, from Amazon. I want to try and protect the tank and would enjoy another boot position. The large crash bars on my Harley have served me well!. Don't forget to put the kickstand down before stepping off your bike!
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Also, ordered a chrome helmet lock from Amazon. Saving much over dealer parts so far!
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Siblings together finally, 2014 and 2020👍 Converted a carport I built 20yrs ago to give room to restore the Healey- paint combination signed off this morning 👍 connection.... colour scheme very close to C5.
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Color matched front fender went on..
:) ;D ;)
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Replaced the dreaded OE Pirellis with Avon Roadrider Mk IIs - excellent grip and no more white-lining !
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Siblings together finally, 2014 and 2020👍 Converted a carport I built 20yrs ago to give room to restore the Healey- paint combination signed off this morning 👍 connection.... colour scheme very close to C5.
i've always wondered..why couldnt royal enfield angle the GT tank so it sits flush and straight? instead it sits on this weird diagonal.
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i've always wondered..why couldnt royal enfield angle the GT tank so it sits flush and straight? instead it sits on this weird diagonal.
Not sure what you are referring to. Mine looks about as straight and flush as you could get.
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i've always wondered..why couldnt royal enfield angle the GT tank so it sits flush and straight? instead it sits on this weird diagonal.
And, as for Flush, the GT tank meets the steering head much more flush than the interceptor.
This is one of my pet peeves about motorcycle design.
I know many people love the Interceptor tank, but to me the GT style is far better. To each their own.
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Not sure what you are referring to. Mine looks about as straight and flush as you could get.
i think i see what it is. the mr clean tanks bottom seam is painted black while the rest is chrome. while yours is all red. on mine, i guess it gives the illusion that the tank area nearest to the seat is raised.
(https://imgd.aeplcdn.com/1056x594/n/bw/models/colors/undefined-mr-clean-1616429318179.jpg)
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i think i see what it is. the mr clean tanks bottom seam is painted black while the rest is chrome. while yours is all red. on mine, i guess it gives the illusion that the tank area nearest to the seat is raised.
(https://imgd.aeplcdn.com/1056x594/n/bw/models/colors/undefined-mr-clean-1616429318179.jpg)
I do see that! Weird side effect of the blackout seam.
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i've always wondered..why couldnt royal enfield angle the GT tank so it sits flush and straight? instead it sits on this weird diagonal.
You're right. The bottom edge of the GT tank isn't parallel with the frame rail and droops a bit at the front. One of the locals here modified his tank mounts to correct it and said it wasn't hard to get it to line up.
At least it's not as bad as the Speed Twin - it looks like something has broken.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2F2yrh403fk8vd1hz9ro2n46dd-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F06%2F2022-triumph-speed-twin-first-look-retro-sport-motorcycle-14-768x512.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
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And, as for Flush, the GT tank meets the steering head much more flush than the interceptor.
This is one of my pet peeves about motorcycle design.
I know many people love the Interceptor tank, but to me the GT style is far better. To each their own.
👌
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You're right. The bottom edge of the GT tank isn't parallel with the frame rail and droops a bit at the front. One of the locals here modified his tank mounts to correct it and said it wasn't hard to get it to line up.
At least it's not as bad as the Speed Twin - it looks like something has broken.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2F2yrh403fk8vd1hz9ro2n46dd-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F06%2F2022-triumph-speed-twin-first-look-retro-sport-motorcycle-14-768x512.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
That´s the most milqtoast bike ever, the t120 still inspires looks, but for 13k it better, but this is just boring, bland.
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You're right. The bottom edge of the GT tank isn't parallel with the frame rail and droops a bit at the front. One of the locals here modified his tank mounts to correct it and said it wasn't hard to get it to line up.
At least it's not as bad as the Speed Twin - it looks like something has broken.
(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2F2yrh403fk8vd1hz9ro2n46dd-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F06%2F2022-triumph-speed-twin-first-look-retro-sport-motorcycle-14-768x512.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
I think one of the main points that makes the 650s( Particularly the GT) so attractive is the repeated common angles in the bike’s profile. Frame, fork , shock ,trim , header angles all echo each other. Personally I think it’s a triumph( no pun intended!) of stylistic design. No bike has leapt out at me for many years as much as the GT has. So much so that I bought mine at first sight, I thought that my bike days were past me.
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You're right. The bottom edge of the GT tank isn't parallel with the frame rail and droops a bit at the front. One of the locals here modified his tank mounts to correct it and said it wasn't hard to get it to line up.
ok i knew i wasn't crazy then. the gt tank DOES droop in the front. just weird that they chose to do this, considering apparently its not hard to line up.
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👌
👍
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I think one of the main points that makes the 650s( Particularly the GT) so attractive is the repeated common angles in the bike’s profile. Frame, fork , shock ,trim , header angles all echo each other. Personally I think it’s a triumph( no pun intended!) of stylistic design. No bike has leapt out at me for many years as much as the GT has. So much so that I bought mine at first sight, I thought that my bike days were past me.
+1👍
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ok i knew i wasn't crazy then. the gt tank DOES droop in the front. just weird that they chose to do this, considering apparently its not hard to line up.
I see no ‘droop’ on mine, is it a year model thing?
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(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2F2yrh403fk8vd1hz9ro2n46dd-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F06%2F2022-triumph-speed-twin-first-look-retro-sport-motorcycle-14-768x512.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
The end of the tail pipe looks like someone put a plastic coffee cup lid on it ???
Is that for rain?
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61mqIXneIhL._SX569_.jpg)
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I see no ‘droop’ on mine, is it a year model thing?
There is no difference, its an optical illusion depending on viewing angle.
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(https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2F2yrh403fk8vd1hz9ro2n46dd-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2021%2F06%2F2022-triumph-speed-twin-first-look-retro-sport-motorcycle-14-768x512.jpg&f=1&nofb=1)
The end of the tail pipe looks like someone put a plastic coffee cup lid on it ???
Is that for rain?
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61mqIXneIhL._SX569_.jpg)
LOL good catch, and actually the entire muffler looks like it could double as a thermos ;D
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I see no ‘droop’ on mine, is it a year model thing?
Have a look at it without the sun shadow. Interceptor tank also does it but it's less obvious as the base is shorter and it curves up along the headstock. Bothers me less than the guy that modified his tank mounts, but once you see it...
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LOL good catch, and actually the entire muffler looks like it could double as a thermos ;D
Heck-yea!...The exhaust goes through the middle and keeps your cocoa warm.
When you stop you can pull one off and yum.
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LOL good catch, and actually the entire muffler looks like it could double as a thermos ;D
Reminds me of the Thermos Bong from Cabin in the Woods. LoL.
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Reminds me of the Thermos Bong from Cabin in the Woods. LoL.
LOL so true! ;D
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Heck-yea!...The exhaust goes through the middle and keeps your cocoa warm.
When you stop you can pull one off and yum.
Yes! I think we're onto something here ;D
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tried to install a compact vista cruise throttle control but tbh didnt have much success. jessherbst has theirs working fine. but for me, no matter how minute i adjust the adjuster on the vista cruise, i cant get the throttle to do both of these things:
1) easily snap back to zero throttle when letting off of it
2) actually hold the throttle in place when the thumb lever is pulled down
(https://i.imgur.com/HTeAWV4.jpg)
(ignore the position of the thumb lever as i had not tightened it down at this point)
theres gotta be a sweet spot somewhere in there. unfortunate cause i like how subtle it is (versus say a crampbuster that just gets in the way when not in use)
at least on the gt650, you do have to at least flip the inner throttle sleeve away from the starter housing (not shown in my image) to get the vista cruise to fit there.
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The throttle snaps back much easier when riding than stopped with engine off.
Adjust so the lock just holds throttle when stopped. Take it for a ride and see if the throttle returns. Then see of it holds.
I had to adjust mine a few times as it loosens up a bit at first.
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And, as for Flush, the GT tank meets the steering head much more flush than the interceptor.
This is one of my pet peeves about motorcycle design.
I know many people love the Interceptor tank, but to me the GT style is far better. To each their own.
I have to agree. The interceptor with the GT tank looks odd but some how great at the same time.
(https://gaadiwaadi.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/R.E-Interceptor-with-GT-fuel-tank-rendering-1-886x640.jpeg)
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Mounted my Hagon (360mm) shocks and installed the EBC rear sintered pads. Shocks are retro cool and have more adjustment than stock. The rear brake finally feels like I have a rear brake!
The Hagons really suit your build, John. Bike's looking sweet - vintage!
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Had S&S cam and powercomander installed on the weekend. Rode it 85 km home, but beyond sensing improved throttle response, I was in no mood to test it as I'm still recovering from covid. Mechanic said to run it in under 5k rpm for first 500km, but I suspect he's hedging against owners getting carried away and having an accident.
Ps, do others also experience instant buyer remorse with each new mod? 🙃
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tried to install a compact vista cruise throttle control but tbh didnt have much success. jessherbst has theirs working fine. but for me, no matter how minute i adjust the adjuster on the vista cruise, i cant get the throttle to do both of these things:
1) easily snap back to zero throttle when letting off of it
2) actually hold the throttle in place when the thumb lever is pulled down
(https://i.imgur.com/HTeAWV4.jpg)
(ignore the position of the thumb lever as i had not tightened it down at this point)
theres gotta be a sweet spot somewhere in there. unfortunate cause i like how subtle it is (versus say a crampbuster that just gets in the way when not in use)
at least on the gt650, you do have to at least flip the inner throttle sleeve away from the starter housing (not shown in my image) to get the vista cruise to fit there.
You're doing better than me. There's no way I can even get the device on the throttle. Is there any way to increase the gap between the throttle body and grip?
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My C5 must feel intimidated by the GT - 1st time ever it dropped some oil on the floor 😣 On it's side stand, normally on Ctr stand in storage in a the sea container, MAYBE it's just marking it's territory and British History 🤔
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Here's mine.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=70116;image)
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Swapped the stock black fender(Mudguard to most of you) to the Hitchcocks Red.
Yes I did keep the extender, I really like it keeping crap off my engine and legs!
Hitchcocks lists it as a match for factory red tanks on GT650, Interceptor and GT535.
I put it beside the tank before installing and it is a slightly different color red, I think it matched the 535 as they used to list it as 535 only.
Still you really don’t see the difference when it is not right next to the tank.
Overall I’m pleased.
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Swapped the stock black fender(Mudguard to most of you) to the Hitchcocks Red.
Yes I did keep the extender, I really like it keeping crap off my engine and legs!
Hitchcocks lists it as a match for factory red tanks on GT650, Interceptor and GT535.
I put it beside the tank before installing and it is a slightly different color red, I think it matched the 535 as they used to list it as 535 only.
Still you really don’t see the difference when it is not tight next to the tank.
Overall I’m pleased.
that looks great! nice upgrade
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Upgraded brakes to full Brembo via decals. Seriously though I also added the Brembo sintered pads. Will update after the test ride. Also painted the engine engraving black using high heat spray paint.
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Ordered a K&N Air Filter from Revzilla. Price was $43.78 Shipped with taxes. They are sending $20 Off codes to emails/accounts and it combined with a smaller discount from Honey.
Not a bad deal!
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You're doing better than me. There's no way I can even get the device on the throttle. Is there any way to increase the gap between the throttle body and grip?
the only way i got it to fit was to eventually pull the lip of the throttle over to the right.
see jessherbsts photo here (ignore the red arrow) where you can tell the rubber lip is flipped to the right.
even still, i couldnt get this thing to work properly for me at least.
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the only way i got it to fit was to eventually pull the lip of the throttle over to the right.
see jessherbsts photo here (ignore the red arrow) where you can tell the rubber lip is flipped to the right.
even still, i couldnt get this thing to work properly for me at least.
Yes I tried flipping it like Jess did and still it's so tight I can't get it to close. Will look for an alternative.
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Yes I tried flipping it like Jess did and still it's so tight I can't get it to close. Will look for an alternative.
It works on mine and some others here so it can work.
I’m guessing there is a difference in how far the grip is installed on throttle tube. I had to do nothing to get mine to fit between throttle grip and switch, but it sounds like for some the gap is too small.
You might try sliding the throttle grip outward a bit. Not easy but can be done. Compressed air helps.
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It works on mine and some others here so it can work.
I’m guessing there is a difference in how far the grip is installed on throttle tube. I had to do nothing to get mine to fit between throttle grip and switch, but it sounds like for some the gap is too small.
You might try sliding the throttle grip outward a bit. Not easy but can be done. Compressed air helps.
Thanks for the ideas. For now it's so tight I can't see it ever working. One day I plan to upgrade the switch boxes and throttle. At that point I will revisit.
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Thanks for the ideas. For now it's so tight I can't see it ever working. One day I plan to upgrade the switch boxes and throttle. At that point I will revisit.
I use mine every ride and can’t imagine not being able to take my hand off the throttle at least every now & then!
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I use mine every ride and can’t imagine not being able to take my hand off the throttle at least every now & then!
I hear you. Last weekend I had my BMW out on a run to Sedona and turning on the cruise through the boring parts is so nice. Weekend before I did 750 miles on the Interceptor and wished I had it through the boring parts.
I'm considering the Atlas as an alternative.
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Installed the RE tall tinted fly screen today. I think it looks great - very sporty, and I like the branded embellishment at the bottom (main reason I chose it). It is smaller than I thought, can't imagine it will break much wind, but it looks good. The mount is very rigid and non-adjustable. The headlight is adjustable and I need to get it out after dark to fine-tune the headlight angle. I did skip the first step - disconnecting the battery, because it looked like kind of a PITA to get to the terminals. The battery seems to be kind of buried in there! Figured with the switch off there would be no arcing or sparking in the headlight, and it worked out fine!
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Installed the RE tall tinted fly screen today. I think it looks great - very sporty, and I like the branded embellishment at the bottom (main reason I chose it). It is smaller than I thought, can't imagine it will break much wind, but it looks good. The mount is very rigid and non-adjustable. The headlight is adjustable and I need to get it out after dark to fine-tune the headlight angle. I did skip the first step - disconnecting the battery, because it looked like kind of a PITA to get to the terminals. The battery seems to be kind of buried in there! Figured with the switch off there would be no arcing or sparking in the headlight, and it worked out fine!
You make a very salient comment there.
_ Here as an aside, is a tip: Have a piece of plastic tubing (think aquarium air hose) to slide over the shaft of those screwdrivers to avoid the likely sparks when doing the hot battery terminal.
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Quick and dirty pictures, since it snowed the past couple days here... But installed the Dustland Moto Mekha exhaust. I wish the headers didn't "poke out" quite as far as they do, and the sensors could be positioned a little better, but overall they're pretty nice. I only started it for a moment, but I was very pleasantly surprised as they sounded even better than the handful of video clips you can find out there. I was running the Tec 2-into-1 before, and no complaints there, but this was more the look I wanted. And can you believe these are also nearly a pound lighter than the Tec!? More balanced look between sides than the Tec, and even narrower look to the bike now.
Also finally wired up new switchgear, new Domino throttle and cables and relocated the ignition just because with the smaller gauges it seemed too prominent. I actually have a Mo.lock on order so will switch to that instead once it shows up, and I have most of the wiring sorted to make that change pretty quickly. And then hopefully I'll keep my dirty hands off the damn thing and actually ride it (and hoping there won't be snow on the roads!)
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Quick and dirty pictures, since it snowed the past couple days here... But installed the Dustland Moto Mekha exhaust. I wish the headers didn't "poke out" quite as far as they do, and the sensors could be positioned a little better, but overall they're pretty nice. I only started it for a moment, but I was very pleasantly surprised as they sounded even better than the handful of video clips you can find out there. I was running the Tec 2-into-1 before, and no complaints there, but this was more the look I wanted. And can you believe these are also nearly a pound lighter than the Tec!? More balanced look between sides than the Tec, and even narrower look to the bike now.
Also finally wired up new switchgear, new Domino throttle and cables and relocated the ignition just because with the smaller gauges it seemed too prominent. I actually have a Mo.lock on order so will switch to that instead once it shows up, and I have most of the wiring sorted to make that change pretty quickly. And then hopefully I'll keep my dirty hands off the damn thing and actually ride it (and hoping there won't be snow on the roads!)
I like the switchgear! You have to tell us more about it. Which one is it? Would love to change the oem one out. How about wiring ? I assume is all controlled through the Motogadget M-unit?
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I like the switchgear! You have to tell us more about it. Which one is it? Would love to change the oem one out. How about wiring ? I assume is all controlled through the Motogadget M-unit?
Thanks!! Not sure of the brand exactly, but I've seen them a few places. Really like that they are full aluminum rather than plastic, and the buttons are also aluminum and seem to be great quality. I should charge for saying where I got them, considering the searching I did... :) but... I got mine from Remmotorcycle.com. I don't actuall y have an M-unit, they're just wired directly. This was also the reason I was looking for these, because I wanted nice aluminum switches, but most out there are all setup to work with an M-unit. I was hoping not to go all the way down that road though.
The wiring isn't terribly hard with the factory wiring diagram and you can find some good videos online too... or just a few minutes with a volt meter and the stock switches. I got wire connectors that match stock, so I didn't have to make any changes to the main harness and it's plenty easy to swap back if I wanted. Afterwards I heard that sanemotionmoto.com offers plug and play ones, all set with stock connectors, but I don't think they're actually listed on their site.
There is a button on the back of each, so on the left side I planned to use a similar flash as the stock, but instead set it up to turn the headlight on/off, with the button on the front controlling the usual high/low beam. For the right side it meant I had two unused buttons. I had to get spare buttons because I wanted momentary ones, with the idea of wiring them up to change the mode of the gauges, since the Daytonas have that function. I can't quite seem to get that to work properly though, so I buttoned it up and saved sorting that out for a rainy day. I'll just have to use the button on the back of the gauge like a simpleton in the meantime. :)
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I insured my bike today, hopefully I'll have time to register it tomorrow!
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Quick and dirty pictures, since it snowed the past couple days here... But installed the Dustland Moto Mekha exhaust. I wish the headers didn't "poke out" quite as far as they do, and the sensors could be positioned a little better, but overall they're pretty nice. I only started it for a moment, but I was very pleasantly surprised as they sounded even better than the handful of video clips you can find out there. I was running the Tec 2-into-1 before, and no complaints there, but this was more the look I wanted. And can you believe these are also nearly a pound lighter than the Tec!? More balanced look between sides than the Tec, and even narrower look to the bike now.
Also finally wired up new switchgear, new Domino throttle and cables and relocated the ignition just because with the smaller gauges it seemed too prominent. I actually have a Mo.lock on order so will switch to that instead once it shows up, and I have most of the wiring sorted to make that change pretty quickly. And then hopefully I'll keep my dirty hands off the damn thing and actually ride it (and hoping there won't be snow on the roads!)
Nice job
Does the new switch gear give you more clearance on full right lock between the switch gear and the tank.
I have Tomaseli clipons and am considering changing switch blocks for this reason. So that I can crank them inward a little more.
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Quick and dirty pictures, since it snowed the past couple days here... But installed the Dustland Moto Mekha exhaust. I wish the headers didn't "poke out" quite as far as they do, and the sensors could be positioned a little better, but overall they're pretty nice. I only started it for a moment, but I was very pleasantly surprised as they sounded even better than the handful of video clips you can find out there. I was running the Tec 2-into-1 before, and no complaints there, but this was more the look I wanted. And can you believe these are also nearly a pound lighter than the Tec!? More balanced look between sides than the Tec, and even narrower look to the bike now.
Also finally wired up new switchgear, new Domino throttle and cables and relocated the ignition just because with the smaller gauges it seemed too prominent. I actually have a Mo.lock on order so will switch to that instead once it shows up, and I have most of the wiring sorted to make that change pretty quickly. And then hopefully I'll keep my dirty hands off the damn thing and actually ride it (and hoping there won't be snow on the roads!)
Great work!
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Thanks!! Not sure of the brand exactly, but I've seen them a few places. Really like that they are full aluminum rather than plastic, and the buttons are also aluminum and seem to be great quality. I should charge for saying where I got them, considering the searching I did... :) but... I got mine from Remmotorcycle.com. I don't actuall y have an M-unit, they're just wired directly. This was also the reason I was looking for these, because I wanted nice aluminum switches, but most out there are all setup to work with an M-unit. I was hoping not to go all the way down that road though.
The wiring isn't terribly hard with the factory wiring diagram and you can find some good videos online too... or just a few minutes with a volt meter and the stock switches. I got wire connectors that match stock, so I didn't have to make any changes to the main harness and it's plenty easy to swap back if I wanted. Afterwards I heard that sanemotionmoto.com offers plug and play ones, all set with stock connectors, but I don't think they're actually listed on their site.
There is a button on the back of each, so on the left side I planned to use a similar flash as the stock, but instead set it up to turn the headlight on/off, with the button on the front controlling the usual high/low beam. For the right side it meant I had two unused buttons. I had to get spare buttons because I wanted momentary ones, with the idea of wiring them up to change the mode of the gauges, since the Daytonas have that function. I can't quite seem to get that to work properly though, so I buttoned it up and saved sorting that out for a rainy day. I'll just have to use the button on the back of the gauge like a simpleton in the meantime. :)
Thank you for the info. I googled it and found them on the mentioned website. Good they are directly wired and no M-unit as i'm not really into rewiring the entire bike. Still on the fence as you also have to replace the throttle tube and lines. What did you use there ? How was that experience ?
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Thank you for the info. I googled it and found them on the mentioned website. Good they are directly wired and no M-unit as i'm not really into rewiring the entire bike. Still on the fence as you also have to replace the throttle tube and lines. What did you use there ? How was that experience ?
Sure thing! I used a Domino throttle and universal cable set to update the throttle. Super nice throttle as anyone will tell you, and setting up the cables really isn't bad at all. Plus you get the benefit of customizing to the length that's best for your bike. I had lowered the bars a bit, so stock ones were a bit long anyway. Probably my biggest suggestion if you haven't done cables before, is just making sure you have a really good tool to cut the cables. And of course, measure twice (or 5 times) and cut once :)
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Nice job
Does the new switch gear give you more clearance on full right lock between the switch gear and the tank.
I have Tomaseli clipons and am considering changing switch blocks for this reason. So that I can crank them inward a little more.
I'd say there's a "bit" more room the way I have them set. But since you can position the switches separately, setting them more vertical would definitely increase the space, even making the throttle be the point of contact with the tank. And the Domino throttle is definitely less bulky than stock, so you'll definitely gain some space overall.
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Not today but 2 weeks ago. Picked up the bike after a 10k service. Replaced DNA filter with stock paper one and have them mount the YSS front fork kit.
YSS kit is the best upgrade I have have done to the bike.
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Today was ride day after adding a few mods yesterday. Everything was a super easy install.
Brake and Clutch levers added (https://www.ebay.com/itm/174586727368?var=473796615285) Look good and a good price
K&N Air Filter added (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/kn-air-filter-ro-6518?sku_id=10086131) Bought for $43 with Revzilla Cashback. The induction roar makes it worthwhile :)
New Relays added (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/769-CM1-R-12V) Bought these as a just-in case measure
Strobe effect LED brake light added (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CT97R7P?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) Super bright! and the strobe effect really gets attention
Bar-end Mirrors added (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MTJ7JQ9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) These are really good quality for the price, no vibration but maybe a little small
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Finished of my footpeg mounts, sliders and brake lever and Cognito Moto footpegs.
Very happy.
As you can see by the dirt and dust, I went for a good test ride, including 5km unsealed road.
I was very pleased with the foot position. My heels were much more in line. Enough for me to say "if you are thinking about aftermarket footpeg mounts such as K-speed or Sato Racing, just do it." I wish I had done it earlier.
The handling was definitely improved, especially on the unsealed road. And some much more comfortable and less tiring.
I am 6'4" and have size 13 boots, so the ample cognito moto pegs are bloody great mate.
One problem though - now the gear lever isn't up to scratch. It sit too far out from the bike. that'll be the next post.
Happy riding
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Quick and dirty pictures, since it snowed the past couple days here... But installed the Dustland Moto Mekha exhaust. I wish the headers didn't "poke out" quite as far as they do, and the sensors could be positioned a little better, but overall they're pretty nice. I only started it for a moment, but I was very pleasantly surprised as they sounded even better than the handful of video clips you can find out there. I was running the Tec 2-into-1 before, and no complaints there, but this was more the look I wanted. And can you believe these are also nearly a pound lighter than the Tec!? More balanced look between sides than the Tec, and even narrower look to the bike now.
Also finally wired up new switchgear, new Domino throttle and cables and relocated the ignition just because with the smaller gauges it seemed too prominent. I actually have a Mo.lock on order so will switch to that instead once it shows up, and I have most of the wiring sorted to make that change pretty quickly. And then hopefully I'll keep my dirty hands off the damn thing and actually ride it (and hoping there won't be snow on the roads!)
Outstanding!!! The only thing I would add is a clutch cable. ;D ;)
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Installed the large stainless engine guards, and highway pegs and a helmet lock on the engine guards. Took a short ride, the highway pegs will definitely get some use!
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An inexpensive set of bar end mirrors. Instructions warned against over tightening as the aluminum frame could snap. Not kidding. They'll snap alright. Only snapped one as it was the first installed. Second one no snap. I like the blue tint and like the mirrors more than I thought I would.
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Replaced my home-grown Beeline mount with one from 'The Caffeinated Racer'. I think they just 3-D printed the file that is floating around. I liked mine, but I had to look down pretty far to see it. This one is more inline with my sight.
Here is my gauge cluster, I think I am finally done with it, maybe!
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@JessHerbst...funny, I just ordered that same Beeline mount from The Caffeinated Racer over the weekend. Thanks for posting the photo.
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@JessHerbst...funny, I just ordered that same Beeline mount from The Caffeinated Racer over the weekend. Thanks for posting the photo.
There was a post about the Royal Enfield Tripper a week or so back, it lead me to The Caffeinated Racer site.
I also bought the side panel knob and replaced the short one I already had.
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Set up PC in the garage after downloading PowerTronic R-Tune software and drivers and watching a couple of how to videos. Connected the PC to the PowerTronic unit on the bike and to my delight it all worked seemlessly 🤗 The software is very straightforward/ user friendly. Althought I'm starting from a base of total ignorance as far as tuning, the software enables one to copy and share maps and Recoil Rob very generously offered to take a look at mine and compare them to his - our bikes have basically the same mods, ie filter, headers, PT and cam. As he said, Man....how wonderful is this technology where a person in North Eastern USA can send a tune to a friend in Australia with the push of a button!!!!
... I'm loving the knowledge, expertise and generous support of our community! It's a great place to hang out and learn from others about our bikes 💕🙏
Ps, I'm still missing Phil 💔
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I have built a new gear lever to replace the GT oem.
With the new foot peg set up, my feet are closer in to the bike, which was the whole idea. The oem gear lever sat 45mm of the casing to the inside side of the lever behind the toe tip, and 95mm to the outside of the toe tip.
I purchased an Interceptor spline mount. Used the bolt through tang that the ball joint mounts to, and built it up with a little weld. Filed the tang square to 28mm x 12mm and 6mm thick at the tip.
Cut out some 8mm aluminium. 6061 T6 for those who are interested. Then my mate cut basically like a key way into the ally to accept the tang. A couple of M6 x 10mm dome headed cap screws, and a Woodcraft toe tip.
And happy feet.
Simple, and all for $110au.
And it's on an OEM base, so nothing to miss match.
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I have built a new gear lever to replace the GT oem.
With the new foot peg set up, my feet are closer in to the bike, which was the whole idea. The oem gear lever sat 45mm of the casing to the inside side of the lever behind the toe tip, and 95mm to the outside of the toe tip.
I purchased an Interceptor spline mount. Used the bolt through tang that the ball joint mounts to, and built it up with a little weld. Filed the tang square to 28mm x 12mm and 6mm thick at the tip.
Cut out some 8mm aluminium. 6061 T6 for those who are interested. Then my mate cut basically like a key way into the ally to accept the tang. A couple of M6 x 10mm dome headed cap screws, and a Woodcraft toe tip.
And happy feet.
Simple, and all for $110au.
And it's on an OEM base, so nothing to miss match.
SWEET!
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Whoops
Sorry folks. Put the same photo in twice.
Here is the real deal.
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Whoops
Sorry folks. Put the same photo in twice.
Here is the real deal.
Great work!
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Titled and Registered it in my name.
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Added this universal exhaust slip on (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092TVG2BH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details). Bought a pair from Amazon for $102 total. They are louder than stock, very easy to mount, used the existing exhaust bracket and I think look better than stock being less bulky.
I may add another baffle to tone it down a touch but I'll test it some more and then decide. It made me want to rev it up more so I could hear the rumble :)
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Removed the same Amazon universal cans posted above and added the Tec Stinger 2-1. Those universal pipes sound quite good! Just keep after the surface rust!
Tec install:
1) Polished with 1500 grit wet/dry, then 2000 wet/dry and finally Mothers mag and aluminum polish. Came out great! Brown welds now shiny and match the steel (for now)
2) Prefit was easy, just have to muscle the header pipes into the midsection and use a bit of anti-seize grease.
3) Tec failed to send the 4 washers listed in the bracket instructions… emergency run to Home Depot and out $1.86. I can’t believe after all of the comments that they’re still shipping these things out without the washers! (Added to my outrageous shipping charge grevience).
4) Fitting went relatively well and I definitely benefited from watching multiple installs on YouTube. Definitely used every last drop of arm strength to get the pipes to fit as I was working from a seated position beside the bike whereas during pre-fit I could really put my leverage into it.
5) Twisting the header pipes around the O2 sensor as opposed to twisting the O2 sensor itself on the install was the right move. They are quite fragile.
6). I ordered the Venhill clutch cable tonight with 3 inches of extra length as a think I want a nice smooth arc on the line as opposed to the added bend caused by the zip tie.
7) I reused the existing copper washer in the exhaust header as opposed to jamming a second one in. We’ll see how this works. I’m firing it up in an hour for the first time to check for air leaks. Fingers crossed!
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Well for some strange reason woke up at 4am and could not get back to sleep, decided to take a bit of slack out of clutch cable, check tire pressures they had not lost much, l then went out for long ride, ended up at this huge forest on journey home literally went for miles and miles bit like the land of the dead not a living soul in sight, when l got home l realised it turned out to be quite a run l had used three quarters of a tank but it was warm and the bike performed excellently.
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Well for some strange reason woke up at 4am and could not get back to sleep, decided to take a bit of slack out of clutch cable, check tire pressures they had not lost much, l then went out for long ride, ended up at this huge forest on journey home literally went for miles and miles bit like the land of the dead not a living soul in sight, when l got home l realised it turned out to be quite a run l had used three quarters of a tank but it was warm and the bike performed excellently.
Good on ya, ... nothing better than a nice morning ride.
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I liked mine, but I had to look down pretty far to see it. This one is more inline with my sight.
Did I tell you that I told you? 😎
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Did I tell you that I told you? 😎
Well…now you have!😉
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Removed the same Amazon universal cans posted above and added the Tec Stinger 2-1. Those universal pipes sound quite good! Just keep after the surface rust!
Tec install:
1) Polished with 1500 grit wet/dry, then 2000 wet/dry and finally Mothers mag and aluminum polish. Came out great! Brown welds now shiny and match the steel (for now)
2) Prefit was easy, just have to muscle the header pipes into the midsection and use a bit of anti-seize grease.
3) Tec failed to send the 4 washers listed in the bracket instructions… emergency run to Home Depot and out $1.86. I can’t believe after all of the comments that they’re still shipping these things out without the washers! (Added to my outrageous shipping charge grevience).
4) Fitting went relatively well and I definitely benefited from watching multiple installs on YouTube. Definitely used every last drop of arm strength to get the pipes to fit as I was working from a seated position beside the bike whereas during pre-fit I could really put my leverage into it.
5) Twisting the header pipes around the O2 sensor as opposed to twisting the O2 sensor itself on the install was the right move. They are quite fragile.
6). I ordered the Venhill clutch cable tonight with 3 inches of extra length as a think I want a nice smooth arc on the line as opposed to the added bend caused by the zip tie.
7) I reused the existing copper washer in the exhaust header as opposed to jamming a second one in. We’ll see how this works. I’m firing it up in an hour for the first time to check for air leaks. Fingers crossed!
Apparently, it's easier enough to unplug the O2 sensors at the other end so you don't have to do any twisting at all - Wish I'd known or thought of doing this when I fitted the Stinger. (Sorry, can't find the video of it being demonstrated, but it's not rocket science - clip plug is tucked under the tank on each side.)
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Today I replaced the original headlight with an LED one....
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Today I replaced the original headlight with an LED one....
Nice looking. Got a link to it? Was it plug and play?
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Nice looking. Got a link to it? Was it plug and play?
Bought it on Amazon, £21.00 UK ($25 US), there are quite few to choose from. It plugs straight into the 3 pin connector for the headlight but I did have to splice into the sidelight feed as I want to option to return to original if needed.(you can use the auxilary feed in the headlight if you have the plug, but it takes a few seconds to switch on as via aux relay)... The hardest bit is fitting the actual lens into the ring as the new light is thinner than the old so I had to add a small spacer under some of the clips that hold the lens in. Also there are 2 wires extra, one is sidelight which is the white halo ring, and the other is an orange halo ring for indicator in a car? I just used the white one...... All said it was an easy job ;D
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08P4R4ZGJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
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does it have a dip beam function for the MOT. (uk)
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Yes, works exactly the same as the old headlight, side light when you put ignition on, dipped beam on startup and a high beam (full beam is the bottom led in the light unit)...
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Yes, works exactly the same as the old headlight, side light when you put ignition on, dipped beam on startup and a high beam (full beam is the bottom led in the light unit)...
The three pin main plug on the light is low (dipped?)beam, High beam and ground.
The second connector is the daytime running light.
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Got the autosol out.
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I took my bike in for a state inspection this morning, I'm 51 and was by far the youngest guy there. None of the Harley guys had ever seen an Enfield before, I didn't have the heart to tell them that RE is 4 years older than HD.
I noticed the sound of an HD arriving is always the same, vroom-snick!-vroom, shuts down, kickstand down, Click-Click (hard bags open)...
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Does anyone had this kind of problems? How to prevent rust on forks?
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Does anyone had this kind of problems? How to prevent rust on forks?
Ouch - I am guessing that is a broken triple tree bolt. Soak with eucalyptus oil or penetrene before you drill and easyout.
I used a little never sieze on all the mixed metal bolts, as corrosion is an issue.
And don't use the torque setting in the manual. Use a good quality Allen key, with thumb and fore finger at the bolt end, use your little finger against the other end to give the correct tension.
The lower trees have two bolts each side which you need to do in series and not too tight.
Is the marks on your fork tube corrosion - it looks like something else in the photo?
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Ouch - I am guessing that is a broken triple tree bolt. Soak with eucalyptus oil or penetrene before you drill and easyout.
I used a little never sieze on all the mixed metal bolts, as corrosion is an issue.
And don't use the torque setting in the manual. Use a good quality Allen key, with thumb and fore finger at the bolt end, use your little finger against the other end to give the correct tension.
The lower trees have two bolts each side which you need to do in series and not too tight.
Is the marks on your fork tube corrosion - it looks like something else in the photo?
This bolt was factory tight! I already test all the others, and this one the “only bud guy”. I will ask on hard-store which type of bolt shoul I use to prevent this. The marks are corrosion after I clean up where the trees are tightened.
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This bolt was factory tight! I already test all the others, and this one the “only bud guy”. I will ask on hard-store which type of bolt shoul I use to prevent this. The marks are corrosion after I clean up where the trees are tightened.
I am not sure which country you are in. But if you have bolt specialist near by, maybe they are part of a good hardware store. You should be able to by a replacement cap screw M8 x 35mm. I purchased stainless steel (inox) ones. They are not perfect as stainless steel tends to be softer than mild steel. The correct bolt in this application would probably be high tensile 8.8. But you are only trying to pinch aluminium. So not really an issue. A stainless bolt will be a grade 4 tensile - more than enough for the task.
A good quality silver grade anti-seize product applied to the corrosion area on the fork tube will coat it, soak into any exposed metal and prevent any further corrosion. You will be able to wipe it right off with a soft cloth after a couple of hours (especially if you leave it in the sun to warm up, this opens the grain of the steel up to soak in all the goodness). That will last a very long time. probably outlast your fork legs.
Good luck with the works.
Cheers
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Does anyone had this kind of problems? How to prevent rust on forks?
When I changed my front springs 5 out of 6 bolts came undone without any problems. Number 5 stopped turning after half a turn. Like the threads weren't right before the bolt was fitted. Perhaps not deep enough is my guess. When I put the forklegs back I could turn it a quarter of a turn. Eventually when trying to undo the bolt it still snapped off.
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None of the Harley guys had ever seen an Enfield before, I didn't have the heart to tell them that RE is 4 years older than HD.
I noticed the sound of an HD arriving is always the same, vroom-snick!-vroom, shuts down, kickstand down, Click-Click (hard bags open)...
....and your point is?...? ???
I just love these sweeping generalizations from random samples.
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....and your point is?...? ???
I just love these sweeping generalizations from random samples.
Antidotal yes, but what the poster is saying is that the group of riders gathered there that day had a very distinct routine when arriving at the dealer.
Maybe many of them were riding buddies? Group rides leads to group behavior over time.
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The throttle blips were gratuitous, the shifts were heavy and loud. The pause between the kickstand deploying and the hard bag latches opening was conspicuously the same for each of the 3 bikes. They weren't a group, just more riders going out to get there bikes inspected at the same part of the morning. They were all riding basically the same model, I'm not that HD literate though.
Tooseevee, not every forum post hast to make a point that rings with every other forum member. If you want to out yourself as that kind of guy, feel free but I'll keep posting within forum guidelines. You may skip my posts if you feel the need, it won't bother me as much as it seems to bother you.
I hope you have a great time with your bike though. I will too.
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Antidotal yes, but what the poster is saying is that the group of riders gathered there that day had a very distinct routine when arriving at the dealer.
Maybe many of them were riding buddies? Group rides leads to group behavior over time.
Antidotal?
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Antidotal?
Not a controlled sample worthy of use in research.
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Not a controlled sample worthy of use in research.
Anecdotal even
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Today I completed the valve adjustment as I'm at 365 miles. Yesterday I did the oil and filter change. Everything went well, its a much easier job than I thought. It was the first ever valve check and adjustment for me too.
Left side were pretty much spot on, but the right side exhaust valves were incredibly loose. Biggest issue for me was getting the cover back on with gasket. I ended up gluing the gasket on at a few points and it made life much easier!
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I fitted my sumpguard today. Just managed it without taking the exhaust system off.
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I gave my new Hagon shocks a good workout today. A great mix of fast main roads, and some lovely country back roads around the Fylde coast of Lancashire and the hills of the Forest of Bowland. As well as looking more retro than the original shocks I think there's a modest improvement in ride comfort. I'm glad I made the change.
Here's the bike on the course of the old roman road overlooking Morecambe bay, the heat haze has blocked out the Lake district mountains on the far side of the bay.
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Anecdotal even
Ok, so no surprise, I can’t spell my way out pf a wet paper bag.
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I gave my new Hagon shocks a good workout today. A great mix of fast main roads, and some lovely country back roads around the Fylde coast of Lancashire and the hills of the Forest of Bowland. As well as looking more retro than the original shocks I think there's a modest improvement in ride comfort. I'm glad I made the change.
Here's the bike on the course of the old roman road overlooking Morecambe bay, the heat haze has blocked out the Lake district mountains on the far side of the bay.
My Hagons are a slight improvement too. If they ever fail though the next one will be Ikons.
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replaced the royal enfield fly screen with a dart piranha screen. not a big fan of the big gap thats in between the shield and the headlight now though. weird. i guess i can move the headlight brackets up a bit?
also installed a CENTER STAND on the gt650. finally woohoo!!! no more taking forever to clean the chain etc.
installed a black sump guard as well. for whatever reason my dealer only has the silver one so i had to order a black one from ebay. was cheaper anyway. the dealer did this for me though cause im not comfortable removing the pipes myself.
also hitchcock finally has the LIFT HANDLE (to assist with center stand ) in stock! snagged one and installed now too. wasn't exactly sure if i needed to keep the washer where it connects to the shock mount, but i left it off (?). shrug. the only thing now is that it slightly gets in the way of the throwover bags i've been using, but whatever.
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Bash plate and oil cooler guard.
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Not a controlled sample worthy of use in research.
Anecdotal methinks😁
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My Hagons are a slight improvement too. If they ever fail though the next one will be Ikons.
I did consider IKON shocks as I think they are better (I have them fitted to my Triumph T120) but a fair bit more expensive. I made the change mainly for cosmetic reasons, the improvement in the ride is a bonus.
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I did consider IKON shocks as I think they are better (I have them fitted to my Triumph T120) but a fair bit more expensive. I made the change mainly for cosmetic reasons, the improvement in the ride is a bonus.
We did it for the same reason and yes I agree with you.
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replaced the royal enfield fly screen with a dart piranha screen. not a big fan of the big gap thats in between the shield and the headlight now though. weird. i guess i can move the headlight brackets up a bit?
also installed a CENTER STAND on the gt650. finally woohoo!!! no more taking forever to clean the chain etc.
installed a black sump guard as well. for whatever reason my dealer only has the silver one so i had to order a black one from ebay. was cheaper anyway. the dealer did this for me though cause im not comfortable removing the pipes myself.
also hitchcock finally has the LIFT HANDLE (to assist with center stand ) in stock! snagged one and installed now too. wasn't exactly sure if i needed to keep the washer where it connects to the shock mount, but i left it off (?). shrug. the only thing now is that it slightly gets in the way of the throwover bags i've been using, but whatever.
update:
getting my gt650 onto its center stand is a b*tch!!! 100% its probably my technique. the last bike i had a center stand on was a tiny 150cc bike and that just flopped up instantly.
i've attempted multiple different 'methods' (including the one where you're not trying to 'rock' the bike back, but you're just stepping hard on the center stand lever while pulling up on the lift handle. this literally doesnt budge the bike at all for me)
it was only until i put the rear wheel on a 1/2" of plywood and all of a sudden i can just swing the bike up pretty easily. but this involves actually rocking the bike back, and not the first method described above.
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update:
getting my gt650 onto its center stand is a b*tch!!! 100% its probably my technique. the last bike i had a center stand on was a tiny 150cc bike and that just flopped up instantly.
i've attempted multiple different 'methods' (including the one where you're not trying to 'rock' the bike back, but you're just stepping hard on the center stand lever while pulling up on the lift handle. this literally doesnt budge the bike at all for me)
it was only until i put the rear wheel on a 1/2" of plywood and all of a sudden i can just swing the bike up pretty easily. but this involves actually rocking the bike back, and not the first method described above.
About the gap between the screen you should leave it, it actually helps air flow... on my 30$ puig i leave it
on the lifting technique, my dealer guy teached me in a nice way, the one you mentioned actually, so the idea is to lift it up, instead of trying it move back, 100% on your right arm, but im not sure if the GT geometry makes it any more difficult, if its lower might not be your technique problem, i never use center stand anyway.
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center stand technique:
Lift straight UP (never rearward)
wear stiff soled boots
step straight down with all your weight
pull up against your foot pushing down
RE650's are not the easiest, even with good technique. but not so bad with practice.
cookie
update:
getting my gt650 onto its center stand is a b*tch!!! 100% its probably my technique. the last bike i had a center stand on was a tiny 150cc bike and that just flopped up instantly.
i've attempted multiple different 'methods' (including the one where you're not trying to 'rock' the bike back, but you're just stepping hard on the center stand lever while pulling up on the lift handle. this literally doesnt budge the bike at all for me)
it was only until i put the rear wheel on a 1/2" of plywood and all of a sudden i can just swing the bike up pretty easily. but this involves actually rocking the bike back, and not the first method described above.
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center stand technique:
Lift straight UP (never rearward)
wear stiff soled boots
step straight down with all your weight
pull up against your foot pushing down
RE650's are not the easiest, even with good technique. but not so bad with practice.
cookie
yep that how i was initially trying. maybe the problem is i only weigh about 145lbs. i'll give it a shot again when we're not in the middle of a damn heat wave!
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About the gap between the screen you should leave it, it actually helps air flow... on my 30$ puig i leave it
on the lifting technique, my dealer guy teached me in a nice way, the one you mentioned actually, so the idea is to lift it up, instead of trying it move back, 100% on your right arm, but im not sure if the GT geometry makes it any more difficult, if its lower might not be your technique problem, i never use center stand anyway.
what do you mean it helps airflow? dont we want the screen to redirect the air around it though?
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what do you mean it helps airflow? dont we want the screen to redirect the air around it though?
Any obstruction to air flow will increase the air speed around it as it rushes to fill the void created by the obstruction. If air can filter through this phenomena will be reduced.
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update:
getting my gt650 onto its center stand is a b*tch!!! 100% its probably my technique. the last bike i had a center stand on was a tiny 150cc bike and that just flopped up instantly.
i've attempted multiple different 'methods' (including the one where you're not trying to 'rock' the bike back, but you're just stepping hard on the center stand lever while pulling up on the lift handle. this literally doesnt budge the bike at all for me)
it was only until i put the rear wheel on a 1/2" of plywood and all of a sudden i can just swing the bike up pretty easily. but this involves actually rocking the bike back, and not the first method described above.
I put my bike on the centre stand while I am standing over it. Before I get off I just pull it up the stand. But most of the work gets done bij your foot.
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RE650's are not the easiest, even with good technique. but not so bad with practice.
Just a reminder, I don't have the lift handle mounted since I have the side saddles on, but it's a child game to grab the upper tube of the pillion's footrest triangle, push on the center stand while you pull that tube up and you're done. Try it, you'll be surprised ... ;)
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Yes....grabbing lower on the bike can be helpful and make it easier.
Cookie
Just a reminder, I don't have the lift handle mounted since I have the side saddles on, but it's a child game to grab the upper tube of the pillion's footrest triangle, push on the center stand while you pull that tube up and you're done. Try it, you'll be surprised ... ;)
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already mentioned before but just some random photos:
added sump guard:
(https://i.imgur.com/JQwJ4jO.jpg)
removed RE flyscreen and added dart piranhna:
(https://i.imgur.com/kXWLbsJ.jpg)
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I went out for a ride & gassed up about 45 miles from home. After fueling up there was no power when turning the key, kill switch position made no difference. I wheeled the bike into the shade for 5 minutes then tried again, Bingo! And it got me home.
I'll be spending my afternoon cleaning the white grease out of every connector I can find.
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The sun was out so I put on shorts and washed it. And about time too.
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The sun was shining so I put on shorts and washed it. And about time too.
I’ve ordered a RE sump plate and a TEC oil-cooler guard. I’ve done my homework on lever guards and off-road tires, so I’ll be ready for some serious on and off-road touring when the spring comes around.
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Couldn't resist...after doing the seat hump it would've been rude not Express myself fully.... ;)
Just hope it doesn't look over Bak(er)ed ;D
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Couldn't resist...after doing the seat hump it would've been rude not Express myself fully.... ;)
Just hope it doesn't look over Bak(er)ed ;D
Beautiful! And the side panel is stunning.
This should have been a factory offering !
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Couldn't resist...after doing the seat hump it would've been rude not Express myself fully.... ;)
Just hope it doesn't look over Bak(er)ed ;D
That is so well done! It looks stunning! I'm going to borrow a few of those mods for my baker :)
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Wonderful paint !
Great !
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Mounted the Hepco-Becker pillion footrest extension, now I can take a passenger without removing the side bags, cool !
And a nice finish too.
(https://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/19/49/60/09/img_2026.jpg)
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Installed ST2 Smart Brake system today. Because there is little horizontal space under the saddle, I designed a holder myself and 3D printed it.
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Couldn't resist...after doing the seat hump it would've been rude not Express myself fully.... ;)
Just hope it doesn't look over Bak(er)ed ;D
tbh i think the side panel would have looked better as solid red. i get the intention, but it now breaks the main line running through the bike. this is just the ex-designer in me talking.
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Installed ST2 Smart Brake system today. Because there is little horizontal space under the saddle, I designed a holder myself and 3D printed it.
Very nice! Fantastic that you created the holder!
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tbh i think the side panel would have looked better as solid red. i get the intention, but it now breaks the main line running through the bike. this is just the ex-designer in me talking.
Disagree! Carrying out the theme looks perfect. Solid red would look as out of place as the solid black was.
The artist in me speaking…
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I just cleaned & added dielectric grease to my relays & sockets. Plus that ground wire connector that crosses over them. Also I added some dielectric grease to each of the fuses. I'm gonna need to find a tiny pair of pliers for my toolkit, and a double ended screwdriver.
Valve clearances need to be done soon, when I fired it up the valve clatter was so bad even I could hear it.
I let it idle for 20 minutes in case the loose battery terminals had taught the ECU any bad habits. There was an intermittent miss after the first 5 minutes that lasted until nearly the 15 minute mark before it disappeared. There was a little bit of surging before I shut it down, it's hunting for something or bouncing between 2 points I guess. Correct valve clearances and new oil may make it happier. I haven't looked at the plugs yet.
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I also raised rear shock preload one notch up from the bottom setting, I'll try one more eventually but it sure did help.
Around 10pm I cruised out to the MA & NH beaches, then wound around some inland back roads before heading home, 56 miles in 2 hours.
I stopped 3 times and shut the bike off each time, and each time when I turned the key clockwise....the bike lit back up, I'm happy again.
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Disagree! Carrying out the theme looks perfect. Solid red would look as out of place as the solid black was.
The artist in me speaking…
solid black would be fine as it would just blend in with the frame. solid red would work so the imaginary line that runs across the bike makes sense and that red lives under the main gold line.
instead now you have 3 separate patterns of white/red/gold all at different places and dont interconnect at all, which makes it look super weird to me. i get the intention but dont think its executed well at all. this basically goes completely against the gestalt principle of continuity in design.
make it look like a classic honda cb750
(https://mcn-images.bauersecure.com/wp-images/59013/1440x960/honda-cb750-10.jpg?mode=max&quality=90&scale=down)
dont make it look like a cheap knockoff like the sym 150
(https://i.pinimg.com/564x/87/92/0d/87920d475ee558f66f7cfbd9679552c1.jpg)
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Got the Bridgestone BT46's installed after 8,000 miles on the Pirelli Phantoms. First ride impressions align with what others have said. The new, supple rubber of the BT46 significantly improves the ride. I recently swapped Panaracer Paselas in from Continental Gatorskins on my bicycle and same result. Loving the new feel!
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Well l took the bike in for electronics service all good thankfully, went to my Royal Enfield dealer only charged £80 when l collected it kick started first time, while l was there they persuaded me to do some test rides first was a sym electric motorbike bike they fly on acceleration abs braking one touch lever on handlebar but l don’t think for me, second was the Royal Enfield classic 350 what a bike smooth as anything l have ever ridden brilliant machine all round l give that a big thumbs up, the third was a 75 triumph T140 with high compression pistons l had to abandon that one just could not kick it over with a touch of arthritis in my right knee, ironically 30 yeas ago l used to kick them over easy peasy but not any more, that was the reason the shop owner was selling he could no longer kick it either but what a nice Triumph it was mint you don’t often see them in that condition.
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Popped my valve clearances cherry today, a couple of thousand miles ahead of schedule, as I thought things were a little quiet at the top end.
Two inlet valves were a tad tight, so I was glad I did it.
But that engine cover - what a palaver! I must have had 15 attempts to get the fuggin thing in, even though I had cleared off everything, including the horns.
Eventually, I removed the breather pipe, glued the gasket to the cover, enlisted a second pair of hands, and finally got it in. Strange how in every youtuber version it slides right in!
Took the bike for a ride and, needless to say, the engine felt brilliant. Probably more to do with the relieved state of mind of the newly energised rider than any real change.
But tappets now proper Brit bike slappy and happy.
Next up: new chain.
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That gasket senses fear....never let on!
Cookie
Popped my valve clearances cherry today, a couple of thousand miles ahead of schedule, as I thought things were a little quiet at the top end.
Two inlet valves were a tad tight, so I was glad I did it.
But that engine cover - what a palaver! I must have had 15 attempts to get the fuggin thing in, even though I had cleared off everything, including the horns.
Eventually, I removed the breather pipe, glued the gasket to the cover, enlisted a second pair of hands, and finally got it in. Strange how in every youtuber version it slides right in!
Took the bike for a ride and, needless to say, the engine felt brilliant. Probably more to do with the relieved state of mind of the newly energised rider than any real change.
But tappets now proper Brit bike slappy and happy.
Next up: new chain.
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That gasket senses fear....never let on!
Cookie
Ha! It knows its place now!
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I put Grip Puppies on my Interceptor and rode ~100 miles, they can stay.
Best part is when I roll on the throttle in 6th at 60mph, now I feel the vibrations I was missing that were overshadowed by the vibration in the bars. Now to fix this damn seat...
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I put Grip Puppies on my Interceptor and rode ~100 miles, they can stay.
Best part is when I roll on the throttle in 6th at 60mph, now I feel the vibrations I was missing that were overshadowed by the vibration in the bars. Now to fix this damn seat...
Yep. Love my Grip Puppies. No more numbness and cramps from the small grips. Throw in some adjustable levers to decrease the hand span and you’re sweet!
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Installed a pair of NGK Iridium CR8EIX sparkplugs today. Earlier this week installed the Zeta riser/setbacks that I primed and painted black a couple of weeks ago. 26mm up and 20 mm back. More relaxed arm position. Like them so far.
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Touring seat, TECS gear shifter and brake lever, engine guards, Longride saddlebags (Sidekick mount)
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Two more shots.
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HUGE MASSIVE MOD WATCH OUT
swapped out the stock levers for stock himalayan levers. they're cheaper to buy than it is to get the stock ones powdercoated. didn't want or need adjustable levers since the reach on the GT650 is super short and i also hate the 'hump' that adjustable levers have.
(https://i.imgur.com/dLrE1Iz.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/OPQ8dpp.jpg)
(ignore the crappy temporary wrap. bought some cheap stuff off amazon but it wasn't dark enough for my tastes. definitely like the thicker grip feeling though)
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Nice jolly two-up to Avondale, Wicklow. Just a 60-miler return trip with an ulterior motive... to check that my reseated valve cover isn't leaking oil.
Passed the test. Happy days. Great result and got to ride one of my favourite set of tree-lined twisties -- Clara Vale from Laragh to Rathdrum.
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Added a gearlever extender - since fitting the TEC adjustable pegs I felt I was having to turn foot / ankle inwards, so off eBay for $24 delivered for a BMW- easy fit, personally I think they don't detract, but my bike my call ;D and 2nd if I decide brake requires one. Pic with brake lever to show extra length and width
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P.s $24 for 2 :)
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I repositioned my gear lever to a much lower angle... and find it way more comfortable. Going up and down the gearbox is so much slicker.
Pic shows where it's at now. I'd be interested to know where others put it.
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I repositioned my gear lever to a much lower angle... and find it way more comfortable. Going up and down the gearbox is so much slicker.
Pic shows where it's at now. I'd be interested to know where others put it.
My bikes always have the levers angled down more than most because I'm 6'2" tall with long legs so I gave a lot more knee bend than the average person so my ankle is at more of an angle naturally. It's the primary reason I like a reverse shift pattern on my track bikes because when I'm tucked in on the straight it's even worse and it's much easier to push the lever down in that situation than hook it up for up shifts. Sitting up on the brakes upwards back shifting is fine as I have less knee bend. I'm continually amazed by how many people want larger foot pedals and shifter tips. I'm size 12 boots/shoes and if anything I want the lever tips smaller. I can't see how adding some extension over the shifter tip rubbers is going to do anything for the shift action of the gearbox. Extra less than rock solid parts here is never a good thing for shift quality.
Phil
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Was perfectly happy with the size, angle and length of the shifter, but the TEC pegs moves them 17mm further out meaning I had to twist my ankle inwards to get my narrow 8.5 feet to actually get under the shifter!!! maybe just maybe that's why I wanted it longer!!!! the "bigger" was a consequence of not wanting to bend or drill or play with it, just press on and tighten a grub screw. So either be in pain trying to change gear or add this, Hmm hard decision on MY BIKE
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It's the primary reason I like a reverse shift pattern on my track bikes
The stock shifter is fine for me but I would prefer a reverse pattern.
I have never seen a kit for the INT650 but would be interested.
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Tipped her over for the first time yesterday. I went to start the bike while standing beside it, thought I saw the neutral light, but it was in first. It lurched forward and dropped on the left side. A very easy bike to pick up! I have engine guards, so the only damage was scratches on the end of the clutch lever, and it bent the left mirror about 1/2 way to the handlebar. I put it in my vice and got it back most of the way to original. My question, is anybody using the RE touring mirrors from eBay, that fold in the middle? I don't want bar end mirrors, due to mishaps like these! It seems a folding mirror could adjust/pivot without bending in a tip-over. Thanks all!
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Tipped her over for the first time yesterday. I went to start the bike while standing beside it, thought I saw the neutral light, but it was in first. It lurched forward and dropped on the left side. A very easy bike to pick up! I have engine guards, so the only damage was scratches on the end of the clutch lever, and it bent the left mirror about 1/2 way to the handlebar. I put it in my vice and got it back most of the way to original. My question, is anybody using the RE touring mirrors from eBay, that fold in the middle? I don't want bar end mirrors, due to mishaps like these! It seems a folding mirror could adjust/pivot without bending in a tip-over. Thanks all!
Does the side-stand sensor not stop the starter from running?
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Does the side-stand sensor not stop the starter from running?
Was going to ask the SAME- maybe dissconected? (my C5 is)
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swapped stock ones with biltwell torker grips. wish they were a tad longer since theres a bit of a gap on the grips now but ahh well. they have flanged versions which i may check out.
(https://i.imgur.com/bNB6tyM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4qEOnN6.jpg)
will eventually go nicely with the royal enfield signature brown bench seat that should be arriving soon:
(https://www.bestforbritts.com/wedit/uploads/prodotti/8889/1990481-1280x1000.jpg)
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Bled and flushed brakes today for the first time (~2600 miles). Fluid wasn't very dark at all but I did get some air bubbles out of the front line so it was worth it. Rear reservoir is a pain with that weird angle bracket welded to the rearset there. Plus the nut is smaller than on the front, which I understand as it's a different size rotor. All went well, though and brake lever/pedal feel more solid than before. Will test tomorrow morning - already over 90F here and it's like riding on a frying pan under a broiler right now.
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swapped stock ones with biltwell torker grips. wish they were a tad longer since theres a bit of a gap on the grips now but ahh well.
I’ve been looking at those too. The Interceptor grips are about 5.2” and I’m struggling to find ones the same length. The torker grips show as 4.95” on the biltwell site.
Thanks for posting the picture, I think I could live with that gap. The standard grips are rather uncomfortable and small in diameter.
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I’ve been looking at those too. The Interceptor grips are about 5.2” and I’m struggling to find ones the same length. The torker grips show as 4.95” on the biltwell site.
Thanks for posting the picture, I think I could live with that gap. The standard grips are rather uncomfortable and small in diameter.
yah its definitely much more comfortable. i found the stock ones to be a little too thin. i considered the flanged version (i think they're called biltwell thrusters) but i'll keep these on for now.
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i joined the jess train of ridiculous futuristic led headlight. its blasphemy, i know.
(https://i.imgur.com/dz3wJWq.jpg)
things i learned when trying to connect the DRL on the new led headlight to the stock drl power source on the bike.
the red drl wire from the bike has both live and ground wire combined into one proprietary connector. for this to work with my new headlight, i had to only connect the live wire to the headlight and taped off the ground. theres already a ground thats shared on the led headlight so its fine.
next step is to add a switch to manually turn the low/high beam off and on while leaving the DRL running.
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My bikes always have the levers angled down more than most because I'm 6'2" tall with long legs so I gave a lot more knee bend than the average person so my ankle is at more of an angle naturally. It's the primary reason I like a reverse shift pattern on my track bikes because when I'm tucked in on the straight it's even worse and it's much easier to push the lever down in that situation than hook it up for up shifts. Sitting up on the brakes upwards back shifting is fine as I have less knee bend. I'm continually amazed by how many people want larger foot pedals and shifter tips. I'm size 12 boots/shoes and if anything I want the lever tips smaller. I can't see how adding some extension over the shifter tip rubbers is going to do anything for the shift action of the gearbox. Extra less than rock solid parts here is never a good thing for shift quality.
Phil
I was going to exclaim ‘ size 12!!! but then I thought most of my riding is in size 9 steel caps so that probably balances it out!😂
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i joined the jess train of ridiculous futuristic led headlight. its blasphemy, i know.
next step is to add a switch to manually turn the low/high beam off and on while leaving the DRL running.
The right hand switch I bought had the correct connector for the 650 so it just plugs in.
But, the +12v for the headlight no longer goes to the right hand switch and instead goes directly to the Hi/Lo on the left hand switch.
You can just modify the existing wires/connector but I preferred and adapter. Since both left & right hand switch connectors go to the headlight shell its easy to make a ‘H’ shaped adaptor that connects to both.
I routed the +12v to the on/off first then back to the Hi/Lo switch.
My right hand switch has two ‘on’ positions so I used the second to power the relay for my driving lights.
Here is a photo of the adapter, the little pig tail connector is for the driving lights.
I have also attached the schematics I got from a guy in India. I had make a couple of changes as it did not work as shown. Sorry I don’t remember which wires I had to change but a volt/ohm meter will show you the way.
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The right hand switch I bought had the correct connector for the 650 so it just plugs in.
But, the +12v for the headlight no longer goes to the right hand switch and instead goes directly to the Hi/Lo on the left hand switch.
You can just modify the existing wires/connector but I preferred and adapter. Since both left & right hand switch connectors go to the headlight shell its easy to make a ‘H’ shaped adaptor that connects to both.
I routed the +12v to the on/off first then back to the Hi/Lo switch.
My right hand switch has two ‘on’ positions so I used the second to power the relay for my driving lights.
Here is a photo of the adapter, the little pig tail connector is for the driving lights.
I have also attached the schematics I got from a guy in India. I had make a couple of changes as it did not work as shown. Sorry I don’t remember which wires I had to change but a volt/ohm meter will show you the way.
I’ve been toying with the idea of fitting a couple of tiny Stedi spots to my GT, but I was planning to intersect the headlight cable with a plug to plug insert. Splice the spots into the high beam, so that I can flash / use the high beam/ spot combo via the standard switching.
They’re only 5 watts each, so I figured they’d be okay through the stock wiring.
Any ideas?
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I’ve been toying with the idea of fitting a couple of tiny Stedi spots to my GT, but I was planning to intersect the headlight cable with a plug to plug insert. Splice the spots into the high beam, so that I can flash / use the high beam/ spot combo via the standard switching.
They’re only 5 watts each, so I figured they’d be okay through the stock wiring.
Any ideas?
I would still use a relay. Wire the relay, via a fuse, to battery +, use the high beam splice to trigger the relay.
You can access the high beam signal from the right hand switch connector in the headlight shell.
Make a plug-in adapter, use male & female connectors to make a tap and just plug it in-line with the existing connectors.
Even though they are only 5 watts (each) the high bream circuit is designed to handle the high beam only. Is there enough headroom to add an additional 10 watts? Maybe, but why risk it? Relays are cheap insurance and nothing will ruin a bike quicker than a melted wiring harness!
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The right hand switch I bought had the correct connector for the 650 so it just plugs in.
But, the +12v for the headlight no longer goes to the right hand switch and instead goes directly to the Hi/Lo on the left hand switch.
You can just modify the existing wires/connector but I preferred and adapter. Since both left & right hand switch connectors go to the headlight shell its easy to make a ‘H’ shaped adaptor that connects to both.
I routed the +12v to the on/off first then back to the Hi/Lo switch.
My right hand switch has two ‘on’ positions so I used the second to power the relay for my driving lights.
Here is a photo of the adapter, the little pig tail connector is for the driving lights.
I have also attached the schematics I got from a guy in India. I had make a couple of changes as it did not work as shown. Sorry I don’t remember which wires I had to change but a volt/ohm meter will show you the way.
as someone who has no idea what they're doing with electrical stuff, i find this confusing haha. its a miracle i got the led DRL ring working at all!
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as someone who has no idea what they're doing with electrical stuff, i find this confusing haha. its a miracle i got the led DRL ring working at all!
If the schematic is confusing I’m going to suggest you enlist the help of someone skilled in electronics.
It’s simple to me, but my career for 4 decades has been in computer hardware, so… experience.
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Love seeing everyone's mods here. New to the forum and REs. Have been tinkering for the past couple of months on and off. Here's the progress so far.
- Baak short seat with short rear fender
- Baak short front fender
- Renthal bars w cheap bar end mirrors
- Domino XM2 throttle
- Switches from Rem Motorcycle
- Tec foot controls
- Tec adjustable levers
- 2win shocks
- CustomLED headlight bulb
- Highsider Apollo 3-1 rear and 2-1 front signals
- Vans waffle gum grips
- BT46 front and rear tires
Waiting on Baak bobber exhaust so I can get rid of those giant cannons. Have some new brake pads to install, then hand off to Baak USA to install a new headlight w/ integrated gauge, and also the airbox delete kit. Also going to get the tank repainted.
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If the schematic is confusing I’m going to suggest you enlist the help of someone skilled in electronics.
It’s simple to me, but my career for 4 decades has been in computer hardware, so… experience.
It’s all good I’ll eventually figure it out. There’s a bunch of Indian videos on YouTube that I may attempt to just follow visually haha.
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Love seeing everyone's mods here. New to the forum and REs. Have been tinkering for the past couple of months on and off. Here's the progress so far.
- Baak short seat with short rear fender
- Baak short front fender
- Renthal bars w cheap bar end mirrors
- Domino XM2 throttle
- Switches from Rem Motorcycle
- Tec foot controls
- Tec adjustable levers
- 2win shocks
- CustomLED headlight bulb
- Highsider Apollo 3-1 rear and 2-1 front signals
- Vans waffle gum grips
- BT46 front and rear tires
Waiting on Baak bobber exhaust so I can get rid of those giant cannons. Have some new brake pads to install, then hand off to Baak USA to install a new headlight w/ integrated gauge, and also the airbox delete kit. Also going to get the tank repainted.
Welcome aboard! Excellent bunch of mods you've done, bike looks nice and tidy! How are you liking the tyres? I'm narrowing down my options and they are on the short list.
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Welcome aboard! Excellent bunch of mods you've done, bike looks nice and tidy! How are you liking the tyres? I'm narrowing down my options and they are on the short list.
Thanks dude. I really like the tires. I kept the original size and they definitely feel much nicer than stock. Cornering feels solid and I've taken it up to 80mph with no issue that I can tell. Def like 'em.
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Thanks dude. I really like the tires. I kept the original size and they definitely feel much nicer than stock. Cornering feels solid and I've taken it up to 80mph with no issue that I can tell. Def like 'em.
Thanks mate! So many good looking bikes on here. Its one of the reasons I went with this INT650, its a blank but already great looking canvas to start modding with and creating a bike for my style. I'll probably go with those tires next when I wear down the stocks, I like the reviews and tread pattern. Was thinking of a little more off road-ish pattern as I do like to find the unpaved fire roads and explore, but stocks do fine down them too.
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Thanks dude. I really like the tires. I kept the original size and they definitely feel much nicer than stock. Cornering feels solid and I've taken it up to 80mph with no issue that I can tell. Def like 'em.
im assuming since you went stock tire size with the b46s, the bike now sits lower?
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Thanks mate! So many good looking bikes on here. Its one of the reasons I went with this INT650, its a blank but already great looking canvas to start modding with and creating a bike for my style. I'll probably go with those tires next when I wear down the stocks, I like the reviews and tread pattern. Was thinking of a little more off road-ish pattern as I do like to find the unpaved fire roads and explore, but stocks do fine down them too.
Yeah same here. I got mine slightly used and love how easy it is to make it your own. I'm just waiting on some delayed parts from Baak... mainly the bobber exhaust because I can't stand the stock exhaust. I like how many resources there are for parts and info. I got a pretty good deal on the tires from Dennis Kirk and I think it's worth it to replace the tires even if the stocks aren't super worn. The difference is definitely worth it.
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im assuming since you went stock tire size with the b46s, the bike now sits lower?
Honestly, I didn't really notice, but if it does, that's a good thing since I have short legs and the lower stance would def help.
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im assuming since you went stock tire size with the b46s, the bike now sits lower?
I’m confused, why would stock size tires change anything.
Aren’t BT46 in stock size the same dimensions as the stock tires?
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Yeah same here. I got mine slightly used and love how easy it is to make it your own. I'm just waiting on some delayed parts from Baak... mainly the bobber exhaust because I can't stand the stock exhaust. I like how many resources there are for parts and info. I got a pretty good deal on the tires from Dennis Kirk and I think it's worth it to replace the tires even if the stocks aren't super worn. The difference is definitely worth it.
+1
And welcome to the forum
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Love seeing everyone's mods here. New to the forum and REs. Have been tinkering for the past couple of months on and off. Here's the progress so far.
- Baak short seat with short rear fender
- Baak short front fender
- Renthal bars w cheap bar end mirrors
- Domino XM2 throttle
- Switches from Rem Motorcycle
- Tec foot controls
- Tec adjustable levers
- 2win shocks
- CustomLED headlight bulb
- Highsider Apollo 3-1 rear and 2-1 front signals
- Vans waffle gum grips
- BT46 front and rear tires
Waiting on Baak bobber exhaust so I can get rid of those giant cannons. Have some new brake pads to install, then hand off to Baak USA to install a new headlight w/ integrated gauge, and also the airbox delete kit. Also going to get the tank repainted.
Welcome and what a beautiful bike!
I think you’ll be happy with the Baak bobber exhaust, I love mine.
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I’m confused, why would stock size tires change anything.
Aren’t BT46 in stock size the same dimensions as the stock tires?
someone else had posted they got the bt46 in stock size and their speedo became waaay off and noticed there was more of a gap between the front tire and the fender. they also mentioned the rear was a tiny bit shorter as well.
edit: they mentioned it here: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33560.msg417090#msg417090
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someone else had posted they got the bt46 in stock size and their speedo became waaay off and noticed there was more of a gap between the front tire and the fender. they also mentioned the rear was a tiny bit shorter as well.
edit: they mentioned it here: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33560.msg417090#msg417090
Thanks, interesting post.
I thought the size was a specific size definition, I.e. 110/90-18 would be a 110 width with a sidewall which was 90% of the width on an 18” diameter wheel.
Can anyone who has the BT-46 confirm? I’m planning on installing some on the fall and I may need to rethink what size I buy.
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From Pirelli and Bridgestone tyre data books:-
100/9 x 18 Phantom diameter = 649 mm (25.55"), BT46 dia. = 25.1" (637.5 mm).
130/70 x 18 Phantom dia. = 651 mm (25.63"), BT 46 = 25.4" (645.2 mm).
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Thanks, interesting post.
I thought the size was a specific size definition, I.e. 110/90-18 would be a 110 width with a sidewall which was 90% of the width on an 18” diameter wheel.
Can anyone who has the BT-46 confirm? I’m planning on installing some on the fall and I may need to rethink what size I buy.
It does vary from brand to brand and even from model to model within a brand.
Some brands, on the factory web page,list the actual circumference and how many rotations per mile. Avon is one that lists it conspicuously. Others you might have to search a bit.
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Bit of a Hi Jack here, but that tyre info is really interesting. Never knew that. As the speedo is driven from the front would a larger diameter front make the speedo read higher whilst actual speed is lower?....
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Bit of a Hi Jack here, but that tyre info is really interesting. Never knew that. As the speedo is driven from the front would a larger diameter front make the speedo read higher whilst actual speed is lower?....
The "actual" speed over the ground doesn't care what size front wheel / tire you have. The rear tire size does effect the final drive ratio and in turn the over ground speed.
The front speed sensor ring will make fewer rotations per mile with a larger tire up front, in turn effecting the "indicated" speed reading. Fractionally, slower reading, Ie less inaccurate.
That is why if you get a Speed Healer system and change front tire size you must re-calibrate.
AS we all know, all motorcycles are set to be within a margin of error by law. The all play it safe to avoid getting violated, fined and recalled. Except for police bikes. That never really bothered me until I recently bought a retired cop bike. Not only are they dead-nuts accurate the gauges are marked in 2 MPH increments. So now my other bikes bug me for the first hour of riding them. ;) (In fairness, new BMWs are the closest to being accurate.)
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Thanks, interesting post.
I thought the size was a specific size definition, I.e. 110/90-18 would be a 110 width with a sidewall which was 90% of the width on an 18” diameter wheel.
Can anyone who has the BT-46 confirm? I’m planning on installing some on the fall and I may need to rethink what size I buy.
BT46 140/70 and 110/80 works best for me. Tried 110/90 but it made the steering heavy, compared to 100/90. 110/80 doesn't have that effect, and has noticeably better cornering grip than 100/90.
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BT46 140/70 and 110/80 works best for me. Tried 110/90 but it made the steering heavy, compared to 100/90. 110/80 doesn't have that effect, and has noticeably better cornering grip than 100/90.
Thanks, thats helpful.
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BT46 140/70 and 110/80 works best for me. Tried 110/90 but it made the steering heavy, compared to 100/90. 110/80 doesn't have that effect, and has noticeably better cornering grip than 100/90.
Your tyre advice is always very helpful, I'm about to order a set BT46 140/70 and 110/80. I don't know much about tubes, if you change tyre sizes do you need to get a different sized tube as well? Or are these close enough to the original sizes to use the original tubes?
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Your tyre advice is always very helpful, I'm about to order a set BT46 140/70 and 110/80. I don't know much about tubes, if you change tyre sizes do you need to get a different sized tube as well? Or are these close enough to the original sizes to use the original tubes?
Close enough - they fit a range of size tyres, but I change tubes with tyres; they get quite a workout over ~9000km
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Close enough - they fit a range of size tyres, but I change tubes with tyres; they get quite a workout over ~9000km
Thanks Hoiho, I had planned to re-use the tubes, but I guess you can't go wrong replacing them, might do the same.
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Thanks Hoiho, I had planned to re-use the tubes, but I guess you can't go wrong replacing them, might do the same.
And the other opinion is ... I reuse old tunes unless they look perished from age or if there are too many old patches on them. Yes I'm frugal.
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Fitted Healtech gear indicator to my Interceptor, I must say it’s a great piece of kit, it reacts quickly and is accurate. Riding is more relaxed now, I didn’t realise how much attention I was paying to the Speedo/rev counter and doing the quick calculation! 👍
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The first service…. Except the chain… I like to have 500 miles on a chain for the first maintenance check
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(https://i.imgur.com/lVVxMnu.jpg)
Logo swap
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(https://i.imgur.com/lVVxMnu.jpg)
Logo swap
Very nice.
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Very nice.
thanks! such a simple little changes. in retrospect now that i see them on both sides i wish i had placed them just an inch higher!
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thanks! such a simple little changes. in retrospect now that i see them on both sides i wish i had placed them just an inch higher!
Nah, looks just right as you did it. (lower "CG" is cool ;))
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Nah, looks just right as you did it. (lower "CG" is cool ;))
As in ‘lower thirds’?
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Rode it to work like everyday and after my nap I serviced the chain and checked the spark plugs.
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thanks! such a simple little changes. in retrospect now that i see them on both sides i wish i had placed them just an inch higher!
I think you nailed the placement. And the chrome logo on the chrome tank makes for a really cool shiny but restrained effect, if that makes any sense. Well done.
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As in ‘lower thirds’?
It does remind me of the Rule of Thirds in composition. Setting the logo in the lower position brings some weight, if that makes any sense.
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(https://i.imgur.com/lVVxMnu.jpg)
Logo swap
Like 👍 Nice👍👍
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It does remind me of the Rule of Thirds in composition. Setting the logo in the lower position brings some weight, if that makes any sense.
NOT heard "rule of thirds" since I retired from lecturing in photography!
For anyone scratching their heads - take any area / pic / drawing - rule into 3rds vertically and horizontally and where they intersect is where the eye will naturally be drawn to - check out adverts, logo position etc....it works👍
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(https://i.imgur.com/lVVxMnu.jpg)
Logo swap
Can you post a link for the Tank Logo? best I've seen on a Loooong Time👍
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Can you post a link for the Tank Logo? best I've seen on a Loooong Time👍
i got it from this ebay listing (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/313376286482) but they're all over ebay if you search for "royal enfield chrome logo"
it took over a month to get to me though! (i live in canada)
heres the same logo in video format which captures how nice i think it looks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=313&v=TIVH62KBDZ4
one small unrelated annoying thing was i tried to remove the heel guard on that side to paint it, but the screws were BOTH stripped on it already!
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I had run out to the 'Trough of Bowland' an area of outstanding natural beauty in Lancashire (NW England) it was around 32celcius, too hot for me really, like riding in a fan oven (I did ride across Death Valley in 119f about 10 years ago- even worse :))
I stopped for lunch and a couple of pints of Lager shandy in the village of Waddington and sat in the shade to watch the world roll by.
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ooops, wrong thread, Could the above be moved to the more appropriate 'out and about on your interceptor thread?
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I had run out to the 'Trough of Bowland' an area of outstanding natural beauty in Lancashire (NW England) it was around 32celcius, too hot for me really, like riding in a fan oven (I did ride across Death Valley in 119f about 10 years ago- even worse :))
I stopped for lunch and a couple of pints of Lager shandy in the village of Waddington and sat in the shade to watch the world roll by.
I like your Helmet color/graphics !
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... i wish i had placed them just an inch higher!
Nooooo! :) :)
They're perfect
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I like your Helmet color/graphics !
Thanks, it's a Shoei open face with a built in drop down visor. There is a faint Union Flag on either side in the dark area in the ear/cheek section.
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i got it from this ebay listing (https://www.ebay.ca/itm/313376286482) but they're all over ebay if you search for "royal enfield chrome logo"
it took over a month to get to me though! (i live in canada)
heres the same logo in video format which captures how nice i think it looks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=313&v=TIVH62KBDZ4
one small unrelated annoying thing was i tried to remove the heel guard on that side to paint it, but the screws were BOTH stripped on it already!
Appreciated 👍
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I had run out to the 'Trough of Bowland' an area of outstanding natural beauty in Lancashire (NW England) it was around 32celcius, too hot for me really, like riding in a fan oven (I did ride across Death Valley in 119f about 10 years ago- even worse :))
I stopped for lunch and a couple of pints of Lager shandy in the village of Waddington and sat in the shade to watch the world roll by.
Waddington Village looks charming, I'll take a (Google Maps) walk around a bit later. Thanks for posting.
EDIT. I think I'd fancy having a pint of larger with you at the Higher Buck ;)
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Fitted some PowerAge mufflers. Much lighter than the originals. They sound nice, and have a little bit of popping on the decel, though it's a gas tight seal. They put out quite a bit of white smoke on the first couple of runs, but the instructions warn of this. Pretty happy with them
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Fitted some PowerAge mufflers. Much lighter than the originals. They sound nice, and have a little bit of popping on the decel, though it's a gas tight seal. They put out quite a bit of white smoke on the first couple of runs, but the instructions warn of this. Pretty happy with them
Those are very nice, and not a huge departure from stock.
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They're also cooler to the touch. I'm running them with the db killers, and they're still quite loud when you open the throttle! They came from India, and I'm thinking they look identical to the 'Enfield Precision' ones.
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In addition to the new exhausts, which are great,
I installed a Healtech Gear Indicator. Now I know that these are an unnecessary gadget, but it doesn't take up much room, and it stops me from looking for 7th gear occasionally. This one just plugs into the diagnostic connector, and they also have one for Euro 4 bikes, which taps into the loom. Works well. Indicates the gear when you let the clutch out.
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They're also cooler to the touch. I'm running them with the db killers, and they're still quite loud when you open the throttle! They came from India, and I'm thinking they look identical to the 'Enfield Precision' ones.
I assume the Enfield precision ones are jus white labeled powerage
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I cleaned/ lubed my chain and cleaned my rear wheel. Then spent and 3 hours waxing all my water proofs and mink oiling my boots. Because I commute on my interceptor and I also work outside.
I will mention a modification I made last week. When I was lubing my chain I noticed to 2 flare nuts for the chain adjuster on the right side were gone. So I moved 1 of the flare nuts from the left to the right and then used a pair of nylocks as my jam nuts…
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Today, I left this morning at 7:45 and took a nice 155 mile ride. When arriving at home, I cleaned and lubed the chain.
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Wind noise in your helmet or in GP footage? I use a chestie and ext mic (with dead cat) clipped to backpack pointed down which works quite well as it's out of the wind blast. Tends to record noise from my bike, not others in front but thats to be expected. Here's a ride from last weekend - https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE (https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE)
Nice roads, Otago Peninsular? - I'm up in Gizzy, hard to find good surface that's not stuffed from logging trucks - thanks for sharing - cheers
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Nice roads, Otago Peninsular? - I'm up in Gizzy, hard to find good surface that's not stuffed from logging trucks - thanks for sharing - cheers
No, coastal roads north & south of OP.
Spent some time surf tripping around Giz and East Cape 20 years ago; lovely place you got up there..
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As per “Uncle Stu’s” instructions I checked my valve adjustment again at 1500 miles and all the intake valves were out. Left to right .005, .004, .004, .006 instead of .003. And I cleaned and lubed my chain, added about a cup of oil. Took it around the block and discovered I left the oil cap off so then I added about another cup of oil and spent 2 hours cleaning Lucas 20w50 full synthetic air cooled motorcycle oil off the left side of the bike.
Made sure the oil cap was secure and went for a 30 mile spirited ride…
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Installed EBC Sintered brake pads, front and rear. Huge improvement in braking feel and power in my opinion. We’ll worth the time and money. Very quick and easy to install. Didn’t even need to remove the rear caliper.
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Baby got new shoes!
BT46 in stock size. New tubes as well, for good measure.
While I was waiting for the tires yo be installed I was talking to a couple of guys at the dealer, one also waiting on service of his BMW310, the other shopping.
The shopping guy test rode a Scram411 then a GT. After the GT ride he had a big smile on his face and decided to buy an Interceptor. The dealer was out of stock on interceptors so he put a deposit on the next delivery. Bought the sunset strip version.
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Just ordered my second set of the BT46's.
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Installed a new BT46 on the rear.
Discovered I had the little spin arrow facing the wrong direction. :(
I've done a bunch of motorcycle tires but this one was the worst to get off.
I do all mine by hand and without a real bead breaker. (Motion Pro bead levers)
The rim on the Interceptor has a very shallow middle valley where the spokes attach and the Battlax tires have stiff sidewalls.
Took me an hour and I felt like I was on the loosing end of a bar fight. :P
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Installed a new BT46 on the rear.
Discovered I had the little spin arrow facing the wrong direction. :(
I've done a bunch of motorcycle tires but this one was the worst to get off.
I do all mine by hand and without a real bead breaker. (Motion Pro bead levers)
The rim on the Interceptor has a very shallow middle valley where the spokes attach and the Battlax tires have stiff sidewalls.
Took me an hour and I felt like I was on the loosing end of a bar fight. :P
Dont buy the Michelin's they are worse.
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Got my bike back today! I had installed some stuff and had to hand off to Baak usa for some of the more technical stuff like the air box delete and headlight/gauge. Their painter did a killer job. It helps to have a talented graphic designer for a wife. Mostly Baak bits but some tec parts and others thrown in. Flipped the mirrors down already for a cleaner look. Really happy with how it came out as well as how the exhaust sounds. Next up is installing a booster plug.
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Got my bike back today! I had installed some stuff and had to hand off to Baak usa for some of the more technical stuff like the air box delete and headlight/gauge. Their painter did a killer job. It helps to have a talented graphic designer for a wife. Mostly Baak bits but some tec parts and others thrown in. Flipped the mirrors down already for a cleaner look. Really happy with how it came out as well as how the exhaust sounds. Next up is installing a booster plug.
Good job, you have really made it unique. The engine mods you have done may be beyond the capabilities of a booster plug, have you thought about a power commander or powertronic solution? Let us know how it goes.
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Great looking motorcycle!
Congrats to both you and your wife!!
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Nice attention to detail, well done.
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Not so much what I did today, but what I intend to do tomorrow, and tomorrow's tomorrow...
(https://farm66.staticflickr.com/65535/52345239454_7aa860b73e_m.jpg)
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Good job, you have really made it unique. The engine mods you have done may be beyond the capabilities of a booster plug, have you thought about a power commander or powertronic solution? Let us know how it goes.
Thanks! Yeah i have a feeling it might not be enough but I have it already so I'm gonna put it in and see if it does anything. Will report back.
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Subtle change.
There has been something bugging me about the LED headlight I installed. It works fantastic, no complaints there. But it just looked ‘Off’, I’ve a ‘Look’ that I’m going for and something just was not right.
Turns out the LED ‘Halo’ ring & bar were just too small by a little bit, and the bright white ting covering the LEDs kind of sticks out.
Enter new Headlight with bigger halo and no White ring over the LEDs.
Old on left, new on right.
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Baby got new shoes!
BT46 in stock size. New tubes as well, for good measure.
Are they 140s or 150s on the rear? I just installed a pair of BT46s with the 140s on my interceptor’s rear and it had me wondering if 150s would fit with the chain guard?
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Are they 140s or 150s on the rear? I just installed a pair of BT46s with the 140s on my interceptor’s rear and it had me wondering if 150s would fit with the chain guard?
100/90-18 front, 130/70-18 rear
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Dont buy the Michelin's they are worse.
Seriously :o
Do you do it "old school" also with levers?
I have tool marks all over my rims now from the Bridgestones.
Like I drove down a gravel road without tires.
I refuse to let any other mechanic work on my bike so I guess I'll have to live with it.
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I bought my Interceptor in March. It has a 1/22 build date Euro 4 spec. Since purchase I've removed the rear mud flap, swapped the seat out to a GT tour style, removed the grab handle, rear pegs, rear brake reservoir cover, swapped the INT650 for Interceptor 650 side covers, installed NGK iridium plugs, changed out to Amsoil, did my valve adj, swapped to the better intake cover but kept the paper element, rolled the stock bars rearward maybe an inch plus and made a huge difference in ride comfort with the seat swap! Shocks and tires next
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Seriously :o
Do you do it "old school" also with levers?
I have tool marks all over my rims now from the Bridgestones.
Like I drove down a gravel road without tires.
I refuse to let any other mechanic work on my bike so I guess I'll have to live with it.
I tried to get the Michelin's on my previous BMW R80 but I didnt get them warm enough with the haidryer.. Even when doing them on a proper tyre fitting equipment they notice that they are hard to fit when you compare them with the Bridgestones. I fitted them to the rims on my BMW R80 but it was hard work. I did fit tyres on my Enfield Bullet and it seemed to be almost as easy as doing them on a moped. I wont bother putting tyres on the Interceptor though. It doesnt cost a lot to have them done. I never have punctures otherwise I would see it as good practise for when I do have one.
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I replaced my olds BT46 by the new Michelin Road Classic, and did a test (900kms…) in two days. What a didn’t like on the Michelins: The Carcass is harder than the BT46, I have to put some strength in the steering on the corner exit. What I like: They heat up faster and they give me more confidence on the corners. Does they will last 12500 kms like the BT46? I don’t know…
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Have y'all ever noticed the difference between the two lower frame connections and how they bolt together?
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Got my bike back today! I had installed some stuff and had to hand off to Baak usa for some of the more technical stuff like the air box delete and headlight/gauge. Their painter did a killer job. It helps to have a talented graphic designer for a wife. Mostly Baak bits but some tec parts and others thrown in. Flipped the mirrors down already for a cleaner look. Really happy with how it came out as well as how the exhaust sounds. Next up is installing a booster plug.
Looks amazing Wangster! Nice!
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Looks amazing Wangster! Nice!
Thanks dude!
I painted the throttle, rear brake covers and the front fender mount black over the weekend. Debating if I should also paint the gas cap black or just brush it and make it matte.
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Modified Cube's STL to fit a clock. Fitted some new shoes and an Outex tubeless kit (cheers to NJ Mike for install tips). Haven't ridden the bike yet and the rear wheel has dropped 2psi and front 1psi in 24 hrs. Hopefully they will settle down and hold air.
(https://i.ibb.co/ftp86Pm/IMG-0175.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/V34n4kz/IMG-0156.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/JcDC5Ht/IMG-0178.jpg)
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I finally got around to fitting a fly screen, grip puppies and a premium touring seat today. If the weather is OK tomorrow I'll test them out.
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I realized that the empty mounting hole for the exhaust, next to the passenger foot pegs, is a perfect fit for a bicycle stem top cap. Just a little detail to fill in that hole. I had some top caps laying around and figured it was a nice way to customize and a way to integrate my other hobby/Money pit.
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I realized that the empty mounting hole for the exhaust, next to the passenger foot pegs, is a perfect fit for a bicycle stem top cap. Just a little detail to fill in that hole. I had some top caps laying around and figured it was a nice way to customize and a way to integrate my other hobby/Money pit.
Very cool idea, there are a Shmorgishborg of stem caps to choose from!
Now, what happened to your silencers?
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Now, what happened to your silencers?
Have a look at his previous posts, that will inform you .
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I realized that the empty mounting hole for the exhaust, next to the passenger foot pegs, is a perfect fit for a bicycle stem top cap. Just a little detail to fill in that hole. I had some top caps laying around and figured it was a nice way to customize and a way to integrate my other hobby/Money pit.
What is that in the right side shot? A donut?
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Seriously :o
Do you do it "old school" also with levers?
I have tool marks all over my rims now from the Bridgestones.
Like I drove down a gravel road without tires.
I refuse to let any other mechanic work on my bike so I guess I'll have to live with it.
I think there are rim protectors to prevent that. Too bad that happened.
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What is that in the right side shot? A donut?
Yup donut with sprinkles!
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Yup donut with sprinkles!
Ha! :) :) Too cool for school :) :)(http://)
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Very cool idea, there are a Shmorgishborg of stem caps to choose from!
Now, what happened to your silencers?
I have short Baak ones that don’t need the original mounts.
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Rick, I know where your coming from. Yep, mine ain’t exactly even, I was worried about it, till I went to the shop and noticed all the other bikes are the same, and she handles fine
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Rick, I know where your coming from. Yep, mine ain’t exactly even, I was worried about it, till I went to the shop and noticed all the other bikes are the same, and she handles fine
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I think there are rim protectors to prevent that. Too bad that happened.
I must have purchased the wrong ones.
They totally suck. (too thick)
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I adjusted the valves today. All part of the yearly service. Hardly any adjustment required really but when you take the cover off you might aswell do them. Only two valves required very slight adjustment.
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New Hagon rear shocks. Standard length.
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New Hagon rear shocks. Standard length.
Your bike looks awesome! I love the color & the black shock aligns well with the black cooling fins & side cover, creating a nice flow.
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New Hagon rear shocks. Standard length.
Awesome looking bike. Have you had a chance to asses the new shocks? I’ve been looking at the Hagon and the YSS Z series.
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Appreciate the comments fellas. We all have a great canvas to paint our RE's just as we want. I was between the 150-175 and 175 to 200 lb weight when I ordered these shocks so I opted for the 175-200 as im about 180 in gear. I'm running the lightest of three preload positions and it feels similar to the stockers in the third notch. Dampner set mid way. To me the shocks feel somewhat similar with an edge going to the Hagons running curves up here in the mountains. I think they do look better if that counts.
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Appreciate the comments fellas. We all have a great canvas to paint our RE's just as we want. I was between the 150-175 and 175 to 200 lb weight when I ordered these shocks so I opted for the 175-200 as im about 180 in gear. I'm running the lightest of three preload positions and it feels similar to the stockers in the third notch. Dampner set mid way. To me the shocks feel somewhat similar with an edge going to the Hagons running curves up here in the mountains. I think they do look better if that counts.
Looking better counts for sure!! Keep us posted on how they feel as they break in please.
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Started having intermittent starting issues on the INT. Cleaned the ignition switch with contact cleaner and cleaned and tightened the battery terminals but still only turned over part of the time. Problem was the contact points in the starter switch had oxidized just enough to go intermittent. Lightly dressed those points with a micro file and back in business.
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Good tip on the starter switch, cheers
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Rear wheel bearing at 7700 miles :(
Took 45 min. to limp home at 20 mph
Sounded like an angry badger was chasing me the entire way.
Suspect the bearing spacer is too short. May have to machine a new one.
I don't wash my bike and I don't ride it in the rain so that ain't it.
Anyway...It looks like 6203 for the wheel bearings (x2) and 6205 for the sprocket (x1)
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Appreciate the comments fellas. We all have a great canvas to paint our RE's just as we want. I was between the 150-175 and 175 to 200 lb weight when I ordered these shocks so I opted for the 175-200 as im about 180 in gear. I'm running the lightest of three preload positions and it feels similar to the stockers in the third notch. Dampner set mid way. To me the shocks feel somewhat similar with an edge going to the Hagons running curves up here in the mountains. I think they do look better if that counts.
I have my Hagons on the lightest preload setting too. And yes I bought them too mainly for the looks.I didnt buy the ones with adjustable damping as most people seem to end up in the middle setting anyway.
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I have my Hagons on the lightest preload setting too. And yes I bought them too mainly for the looks.I didnt buy the ones with adjustable damping as most people seem to end up in the middle setting anyway.
Other than the looks, how do you like them?
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Rear wheel bearing at 7700 miles :(
Took 45 min. to limp home at 20 mph
Sounded like an angry badger was chasing me the entire way.
Suspect the bearing spacer is too short. May have to machine a new one.
I don't wash my bike and I don't ride it in the rain so that ain't it.
Anyway...It looks like 6203 for the wheel bearings (x2) and 6205 for the sprocket (x1)
Was it a sealed bearing?
Phil
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Other than the looks, how do you like them?
I would say slightly better as the standard shockers. The springs can handle more weight but the damping is about the same. The build quality is less as Koni which is now Ikon. Not bad value for the money. Only 200Euro's for these. I did go for the slimline springs but really that wasnt the best idea as they caught on the body of the shocker so plastic sleeves had to be fitted to prevent this.
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Was it a sealed bearing?
Yep, standard double sealed balls w/ cage.
Spacer is 86.5 mm
Hub bearing seating shelf to shelf is 88.9 mm (3.500")
Looks like spacer is 2.4 mm too short.
I think that's too much side load to live.
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Got Heidenau K60s in stock sizes put on. They look great, and they ride even better. Loving the scrambler look. Just waiting on a couple more bits and I'll do a photo shoot.
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I adjusted the valves today. All part of the yearly service. Hardly any adjustment required really but when you take the cover off you might aswell do them. Only two valves required very slight adjustment.
I know RE have this as a requirement but it's in reality a total waste of time. It's really a donation to the dealers. Valves only need to be done on running hours or mileage. People may say well it won't hurt but there's an old saying of don't fuck with something that's working fine. Every time you disassemble something there's a chance of introducing a fault or potential for a rework.
Phil
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Yep, standard double sealed balls w/ cage.
Spacer is 86.5 mm
Hub bearing seating shelf to shelf is 88.9 mm (3.500")
Looks like spacer is 2.4 mm too short.
I think that's too much side load to live.
Absolutely it is. It doesn't hurt to have the spacer a few thou longer than the bearing shoulder width either. If one bearing doesn't seat by a few thou it's neither hear there.
Phil
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Yep, standard double sealed balls w/ cage.
Spacer is 86.5 mm
Hub bearing seating shelf to shelf is 88.9 mm (3.500")
Looks like spacer is 2.4 mm too short.
I think that's too much side load to live.
That’s not great. Makes a torque wrench on the axle nut even more important..
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I would say slightly better as the standard shockers. The springs can handle more weight but the damping is about the same. The build quality is less as Koni which is now Ikon. Not bad value for the money. Only 200Euro's for these. I did go for the slimline springs but really that wasnt the best idea as they caught on the body of the shocker so plastic sleeves had to be fitted to prevent this.
Thanks for the report!!
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If one bearing doesn't seat by a few thou it's neither hear there.
Cool :) Thanks for the confirmation.
I was thinking about rounding it up to an even 89.0 mm (about 4 thou more) but wasn't sure.
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I disagree with the valves need to be done on time mileage with the interceptor. “Modern”’bikes sure, but a lot of members (me included) have found poorly set valve clearance from the get go. So to leave the clearance really tight, as mine were, for 10,000k could stuff the engine. Now I must admit I rechecked them at 4500k due to curiosity and they were A1 so am now happy to leave them alone for 10000k. Now, some may have had the clearance done at the first service, my shop said it was not necessary. That’s why I am doing my own work!
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I disagree with the valves need to be done on time mileage with the interceptor. “Modern”’bikes sure, but a lot of members (me included) have found poorly set valve clearance from the get go. So to leave the clearance really tight, as mine were, for 10,000k could stuff the engine. Now I must admit I rechecked them at 4500k due to curiosity and they were A1 so am now happy to leave them alone for 10000k. Now, some may have had the clearance done at the first service, my shop said it was not necessary. That’s why I am doing my own work!
Not sure what "time mileage" means but sure doing the clearances in the first 1000klm or so is sensible and every X miles after that but every 12 months is ridiculous. So if you do the clearances and then the bike sits in the garage unridden for a year are you going to check the valve clearances again with zero additional miles covered? I think not.
Phil
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I know RE have this as a requirement but it's in reality a total waste of time. It's really a donation to the dealers. Valves only need to be done on running hours or mileage. People may say well it won't hurt but there's an old saying of don't fuck with something that's working fine. Every time you disassemble something there's a chance of introducing a fault or potential for a rework.
Phil
I agree with you . I had to be sure though. After the first service and having to adjust 5 valves I was even more curious how they would be after a year. I dont know if we have very high mileage Interceptors on here though. My first Bullet was ready for restoration at 6000km. Have we had any burned valves on here or worn guides? I expect that the Interceptor is going to do better. I am curious about camchaintensioners and camchains too.
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Installed Long Ride side bag racks and bags. I had bought a single bag a couple of years ago and really liked it, so I went for the rackets and a second bag. I like them a lot. The racks are super high quality and the bags are very nice as well. They are made in Europe with waxed canvas and wonderful leather. They are beautifully lined as well. Not the cheapest but I am very happy with them.
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Changed the oil and filter, plus new copper washer M14 x 20mm x 1.5mm (£2 for 5).
I also did a repair to my seat that got a hole torn into it a week ago. It's not a professional finish, but it looks ok enough. In the future, if I can be bothered, I'll have another sanding session to smooth it over a bit more. I was going to eventually finish it off with a thin covering of the rubberised cream and then roll a bit of amplifier tolex on it to give it the correct texture. If I can be bothered.
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Changed the oil and filter, plus new copper washer M14 x 20mm x 1.5mm (£2 for 5).
I also did a repair to my seat that got a hole torn into it a week ago. It's not a professional finish, but it looks ok enough. In the future, if I can be bothered, I'll have another sanding session to smooth it over a bit more. I was going to eventually finish it off with a thin covering of the rubberised cream and then roll a bit of amplifier tolex on it to give it the correct texture. If I can be bothered.
A new genuine OEM interceptor seat costs about 100 English pounds shipped from just about any Indian seller on Ebay. Think it's worth the effort of repairing? Even for a Yorkshireman, LOL.
Phil
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A new genuine OEM interceptor seat costs about 100 English pounds shipped from just about any Indian seller on Ebay. Think it's worth the effort of repairing? Even for a Yorkshireman, LOL.
Phil
Hell, there's probably a few dozen people on this forum that will sell the stock one cheap. I know I've got a couple I'd love to see the back of.
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Hell, there's probably a few dozen people on this forum that will sell the stock one cheap. I know I've got a couple I'd love to see the back of.
I think they break-in.
Worth much more w/ 10K miles on them. ;)
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Oil and filter. Used Castrol full synthetic (it was on sale!). Nicer gear changes, particularly going down the gears. I had Motul full synth in, and between the 2, Castrol is an improvement and I would buy it again.
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Hagons seem to be bedding in pretty well, still in lightest preload with the 175-200 lb rated springs. I'm probably 180-185 in riding gear. 5'10" 30" inseam feet set flat on the ground in Converses with legs pretty straight. I replaced the upper mount hex screw with the deeper hex stainless version from Hitchcocks and think its worth it.
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A new genuine OEM interceptor seat costs about 100 English pounds shipped from just about any Indian seller on Ebay. Think it's worth the effort of repairing? Even for a Yorkshireman, LOL.
Phil
Well, it was an aftermarket one that cost £150 and the repair solution was £5 and I had a tub of latex based flooring adhesive from Wickes in the shed. I glued a piece of fabric under the vinyl seat cover, let it set, then put several layers of the repair solution, drying each layer with a hairdryer, then sanded it down. The repair is ok so it's difficult to justify buying a whole new seat. The tear was a relatively minor one on the side of the seat. You have to look for it to see it now. It took me an hour to do and it's pretty easy to do.
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Replaced my broken CNC brake lever with a new one. Had to do the clutch as well due to variation in the colour 'grey'.
Had a bit of a saga getting the clutch lever switch to fit without being knocked out of true. Took four gos to get it to sit right.
Also dried out the left rear indicator, which was showing condensation.
Went for a nice test tour of the locality in autumn sunshine.
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removed charcoal canister.
Cookie
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Replaced the brake fluid, fore & aft.
(conventional method / flushed through a couple of reservoirs worth / no ABS involved)
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I wouldn't mind a bit of info on removing the canister. Does it save a bit of weight? Pretty easy to do? and what do you do with any pipes that once ran into it?
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Fitted Verex mufflers last night.
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I saw someone post on here that they covered the gold on their rear shocks with black. I never have been a fan of the gold so I ordered a few sheets of stick on vinyl sheets and covered it up. It actually went on easier than I thought it would. I always watch the car shows where they wrap cars instead of paint them. This is about the extent of my ability. I'm curious how long it will hold up. I'm a fair weather rider so it should do okay. David
(https://i.postimg.cc/G2MY48j2/IMG-20220719-145749-567.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxWdsSYX/IMG-20220930-182911-923.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/vBkFJX6k/IMG-20220930-182900-701-2.jpg)
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Nice work
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weight saving is minimal at best.
easy to do except the purge valve (and some of the tubing) is hard to get to.
You pull off all the tubing.....and remove lots of tubes and T-connectors ....the tank vent stays and just goes out the bottom of the bike with some other drains...the remainder of the tubes are removed.
You have to cap a vacuum nipple on each of the throttle bodies.
If you remove the purge valve...(or disconnect the wiring to it) it will throw a fault code...
I have a purge valve simulator dongle on order which should fool the ECU to at least "think" there is stall a purge valve there...for now I left the purge valve on the bike with the harness connected to it.
My canister was fuel soaked, as you cannot hear the charcoal grains if you shake the canister.....this can lead to further issues.
Lots of pros and cons on this removal....search youtube for various opinions...
Absolutely no "performance" gain whatsoever...bike runs exactly the same with or without...at least until some of the possible issues of a clogged canister arise....
Canister delete "kit" available on the internet....all you get is a couple of vacuum caps, a plug, and a dongle.....overpriced at $29 (plus shipping from Greece (of all places)…you can buy the vacuum caps at auto store for less than $5.....I bet the dongle is simply a connector with some resistor or other simple stuff in it.
I had to take off the canister to change out my rectifier/regulator...so I figured I'd just leave it off all together, plus I just don't like dumb stuff cluttering up my bike.
Cookie
I wouldn't mind a bit of info on removing the canister. Does it save a bit of weight? Pretty easy to do? and what do you do with any pipes that once ran into it?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/vBkFJX6k/IMG-20220930-182900-701-2.jpg)
I'm liking those blacked out, its a good idea and nicely done.
What is your fairing? Can you post some other pics of it?
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Ok. Cheers. I will have a look at
The bike manual as well
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weight saving is minimal at best.
easy to do except the purge valve (and some of the tubing) is hard to get to.
You pull off all the tubing.....and remove lots of tubes and T-connectors ....the tank vent stays and just goes out the bottom of the bike with some other drains...the remainder of the tubes are removed.
You have to cap a vacuum nipple on each of the throttle bodies.
If you remove the purge valve...(or disconnect the wiring to it) it will throw a fault code...
I have a purge valve simulator dongle on order which should fool the ECU to at least "think" there is stall a purge valve there...for now I left the purge valve on the bike with the harness connected to it.
My canister was fuel soaked, as you cannot hear the charcoal grains if you shake the canister.....this can lead to further issues.
Lots of pros and cons on this removal....search youtube for various opinions...
Absolutely no "performance" gain whatsoever...bike runs exactly the same with or without...at least until some of the possible issues of a clogged canister arise....
Canister delete "kit" available on the internet....all you get is a couple of vacuum caps, a plug, and a dongle.....overpriced at $29 (plus shipping from Greece (of all places)…you can buy the vacuum caps at auto store for less than $5.....I bet the dongle is simply a connector with some resistor or other simple stuff in it.
I had to take off the canister to change out my rectifier/regulator...so I figured I'd just leave it off all together, plus I just don't like dumb stuff cluttering up my bike.
Cookie
I had to jettison a canister on one of my Suzukis because it became saturated.
I've only looked at the diagram in the shop manual for the RE. They all eventually saturate. I'm pretty sure that you don't need to remove the valve and the plumbing. In fact it appears that you can just send the vapor back for a second burn by just joining the tubes with a dowel without the smell filter. I've been eying that canister real-estate to store/ mount an air pump for flats.
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I'm liking those blacked out, its a good idea and nicely done.
What is your fairing? Can you post some other pics of it?
It's a Puig Vision. I've only had it on about a week. I'm not certain I like the look of a wind screen on the Interceptor but it is getting into the low 50's on the way into work so I thought I would try one. I picked the Vision because I figured it would match the black shiny front fender but still have something clear that I could see through at night. It takes about 5 minutes to take on and off with the two headlight bolts so I may run it when it's cool and take it off when it warms up. I'm still messing with the angle to see if it actually blocks any wind.
David
(https://i.postimg.cc/R07V7Wq2/IMG-20221001-095137-871.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4wJHLQc/IMG-20221001-095144-463.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qm9WR14/IMG-20221001-095228-188.jpg)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gcScHFkc/IMG-20221001-095341-650.jpg)
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I had to jettison a canister on one of my Suzukis because it became saturated.
I've only looked at the diagram in the shop manual for the RE. They all eventually saturate. I'm pretty sure that you don't need to remove the valve and the plumbing. In fact it appears that you can just send the vapor back for a second burn by just joining the tubes with a dowel without the smell filter. I've been eying that canister real-estate to store/ mount an air pump for flats.
For anyone interested in removing their EVAP system here's a lively, informative thread on the subject. I'm always looking for extraneous stuff to remove from my Interceptor, especially anything that could potentially cause an issue down the road. On the flip side, I park my motorcycles in my apartment through winter (or when I'm working on them), so anything that limits gas fumes will likely remain.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33130.msg409500#msg409500
On a side note, I miss zimmemr's consistently insightful contributions to the forum.
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On a side note, I miss zimmemr's consistently insightful contributions to the forum.
Likewise.
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Not so sure that joining the tubes is a good idea!
If you did, then where does the air come from to to replace the fuel as it is taken from the tank?
You would end up having suction on both tubes connected to the tank, and no vent....could collapse the tank?
The charcoal canister actually has three nipples....one is the tank vent, one goes to the purge valve and then on to the throttle bodies...
But it also has an open air vent......
Cookie
I had to jettison a canister on one of my Suzukis because it became saturated.
I've only looked at the diagram in the shop manual for the RE. They all eventually saturate. I'm pretty sure that you don't need to remove the valve and the plumbing. In fact it appears that you can just send the vapor back for a second burn by just joining the tubes with a dowel without the smell filter. I've been eying that canister real-estate to store/ mount an air pump for flats.
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Not so sure that joining the tubes is a good idea!
If you did, then where does the air come from to to replace the fuel as it is taken from the tank?
You would end up having suction on both tubes connected to the tank, and no vent....could collapse the tank?
The charcoal canister actually has three nipples....one is the tank vent, one goes to the purge valve and then on to the throttle bodies...
But it also has an open air vent......
Cookie
I'm not perfectly sure either if that 3rd nipple on the canister is the only source of air intake or even if it might just be a liquid overflow.
I suspect the the air intake is either down at the purge valve area and/or at the cap / or both. There is a way. Check it out. Thanks
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Replaced front brake lever, powder-coated and refitted rear brake lever, polished clutch cover. Went for a ride.
(https://i.ibb.co/5k8jHcX/IMG-E0269.jpg)
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Replaced front brake lever, powder-coated and refitted rear brake lever, polished clutch cover. Went for a ride.
How about a close up of that rear brake lever?
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Replaced front brake lever, powder-coated and refitted rear brake lever, polished clutch cover. Went for a ride.
(https://i.ibb.co/5k8jHcX/IMG-E0269.jpg)
Your bike looks fantastic Hoiho 8)
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Your bike looks fantastic Hoiho 8)
Thanks - looking at the pic now; I prob should have stayed home and sprayed the lichen on the driveway ;D
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How about a close up of that rear brake lever?
Here 'tis. Came up ok, considering it was bent up by the swingarm pivot...
(https://i.ibb.co/QHKwb6P/IMG-E0274.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/fNW4wzQ/IMG-E0270.jpg)
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Here 'tis. Came up ok, considering it was bent up by the swingarm pivot...
The black looks nice!
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The black looks nice!
I like mine better.
Phil
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I like mine better.
Phil
Not sure about making them any weaker - doesn't take much to bend it like Beckham.
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I like mine better.
Phil
Yours is quite attractive as well!
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Not sure about making them any weaker - doesn't take much to bend it like Beckham.
Thats why I have the folding toe piece to minimise the risk of that. Also means if you do bend it in a spill it's easy to bend back on the side of the road. It's plenty strong enough for use though.
Phil
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Installed the C-Racer high front fender after giving it a barely acceptable paint job.
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installed rear sets from a GT onto my INT....Hitchcock's kit
Removed secondary air system and installed secondary air system delete.....Western Cycle kit
I did not intend to make my INT into a café racer style....since I already have a café racer
But I just couldn't help myself.....so clip on bars, rear sets, ...sort of a INT GT ?
Cookie
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installed rear sets from a GT onto my INT....Hitchcock's kit
Removed secondary air system and installed secondary air system delete.....Western Cycle kit
I did not intend to make my INT into a café racer style....since I already have a café racer
But I just couldn't help myself.....so clip on bars, rear sets, ...sort of a INT GT ?
Cookie
Conticeptor GT.
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Conticeptor GT.
That sounds like a motorcycle banned by the Vatican.
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Installed a power commander from hitchcocks with a map closest to my setup and today I got the bike serviced. Before the PC the bike was running pretty poorly because of how lean it was and now it’s pulling a lot more and cruising at 80 without a sweat. Another added benefit is that before all the mods, bone stock, I was actually getting pretty terrible mileage of around 45 and now, I just calculated more than 70 mpg at last fill-up! Even if my odometer is off, it’s still at least 70 mpg now which is great! Of course past few days I’ve been doing highway miles and less stop/go traffic.
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Installed a power commander from hitchcocks with a map closest to my setup and today I got the bike serviced. Before the PC the bike was running pretty poorly because of how lean it was and now it’s pulling a lot more and cruising at 80 without a sweat. Another added benefit is that before all the mods, bone stock, I was actually getting pretty terrible mileage of around 45 and now, I just calculated more than 70 mpg at last fill-up! Even if my odometer is off, it’s still at least 70 mpg now which is great! Of course past few days I’ve been doing highway miles and less stop/go traffic.
what engine mods did you do that required a PC? and im confused. so BAAK did a bunch of mods to it before and returned a 'running pretty poorly' bike to you?
highway vs stop/go traffic will have huge consequences to your mileage. i would assume your PC was tuned for performance and not for economy/mileage (since you say it was running poorly/lean). it's more likely the PC is making your mileage worse.
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That sounds like a motorcycle banned by the Vatican.
(https://thumbs.gfycat.com/CheerfulEnchantingIndochinahogdeer-size_restricted.gif)
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what engine mods did you do that required a PC? and im confused. so BAAK did a bunch of mods to it before and returned a 'running pretty poorly' bike to you?
highway vs stop/go traffic will have huge consequences to your mileage. i would assume your PC was tuned for performance and not for economy/mileage (since you say it was running poorly/lean). it's more likely the PC is making your mileage worse.
Full exhaust replacement and air box delete with cone filters so the bike was running very lean. They gave me a bike that can run as well as the mods allowed and a PC is needed to make up for all the extra air. Baak didn’t do all the work on my bike so it’s not like they built a Baak bike that doesn’t run well.
The PC is definitely making the mileage better. Running lean can affect your mileage negatively and it was definitely guzzling gas before I installed the PC. I’m going to get a proper tune next week and will find out exactly how the bike is running and will see about getting the best power/mpg balance.
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That sounds like a motorcycle banned by the Vatican.
Underrated comment! :D
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Underrated comment! :D
Believe me, no one here dares to underrate Jess.
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Friday, I finished the LED upgrade on my Interceptor. Originally I had cheap Ebay smoked-lens LEDs all around, but one went bad and I figured the rest were not long for this world.
I bought Rizoma Club turn signals (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-club-turn-signal) as well as the spacers (https://www.cyclegear.com/parts/rizoma-turn-signal-spacer?rrec=true&sku_id=1278517) and installed over the past two weekends. Far higher quality and much brighter. I bought the spacers, which are originally intended for bikes with full fairings to allow the signals room for clearance, in order to move the signals out a bit and give a bit more separation to them. Worked perfectly for my use case.
One note if you want to use these on your own bike: the front turn signal mount on US-spec bikes is too deep for the Rizoma post/nut combo, or at least not easily without taking off the entire headlight bucket and going in with a deep socket. As I have my headlight bucket at the correct angle for my headlight, I didn't want to do that. I was fortunate to have an OEM tall flyscreen mounted and there were two holes perfectly located to allow the signals to fit and mount easily.
Overall, I am very pleased with both the look and function of these high-end LEDs. With the headlight and the turn signals, I have not spent a sizable portion of the purchase price of the bike upgrading the lighting. This is something to keep in mind for future purchases of bikes - if LED-equipped as OEM (and that's something that is important to you), factor that in your purchasing decision.
I really want signals on my US INT650. I’m not exactly tracking what you did on the front but will figure it out. I’ve changed to a Holley headlight (retro bright model to keep Og look) and signals are next. I’ll prob replace the headlight brackets too. Did you have to replace the relay to correct flashing?
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I really want signals on my US INT650. I’m not exactly tracking what you did on the front but will figure it out. I’ve changed to a Holley headlight (retro bright model to keep Og look) and signals are next. I’ll prob replace the headlight brackets too. Did you have to replace the relay to correct flashing?
I replaced my indicators with sequential LED indicators (multipLe LEDs lighting up from left to right or vice versa) that needed an adjustable relay. The stock was too fast and the indicators would not complete the sequential flash.
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Installed Grip Puppies. Really looking forward to trying them out. I've got carpal tunnel and nerve damage in my right hand so I prob should've done this months ago.
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I got 'em....I like 'em
Cookie
Installed Grip Puppies. Really looking forward to trying them out. I've got carpal tunnel and nerve damage in my right hand so I prob should've done this months ago.
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Dart flyscreen installed
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Tell us about the carbon looking clocks. Is it live? Or is it memorex?
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Tell us about the carbon looking clocks. Is it live? Or is it memorex?
You like them? it's just a 3M vinyl sheet, it gives them another look
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Went on a five hour ride. Found out two things:
Thing the First: The inventor of Grip Puppies deserves a Nobel Prize.
Thing the Second: While the Heidenau K60s have performed very well in most circumstances, they are absolute shit on backroads with a lot of tar snakes. Gripped fine, but I felt every single one of them.
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I fitted a left hand bar end mirror, to the right side handle bar.
Thus, the mirror is under slung.
On my ride today, I found two deal breakers for this setup.
1. On tight right lock, the mirror hits the tank.
2. I can’t just simply glance quickly at the mirror and I have to move my head down to see the mirror.
The standard mirrors are better suited for me, as I can just move the eyes quickly to get rear vision.
When I purchased other accessories I scored the unordered, single bar end mirror, in the box of goods. The seller, when approached, basically said “just keep it”.
The purpose of the exercise today was to establish if it was worthwhile obtaining the other mirror. The result is “no”. ;)
Shame really as I think it looks cool with underslung mirrors, but it’s definitely a function-over-form issue for me.
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I fitted a left hand bar end mirror, to the right side handle bar.
Thus, the mirror is under slung.
On my ride today, I found two deal breakers for this setup.
1. On tight right lock, the mirror hits the tank.
2. I can’t just simply glance quickly at the mirror and I have to move my head down to see the mirror.
The standard mirrors are better suited for me, as I can just move the eyes quickly to get rear vision.
When I purchased other accessories I scored the unordered, single bar end mirror, in the box of goods. The seller, when approached, basically said “just keep it”.
The purpose of the exercise today was to establish if it was worthwhile obtaining the other mirror. The result is “no”. ;)
Shame really as I think it looks cool with underslung mirrors, but it’s definitely a function-over-form issue for me.
I have Royal Enfield bar end mirrors and they work well(mounted on topside) but there is a little extra head movement needed to check both mirrors that inboard mounted mirrors don’t need.
Flip side is that the stock inboard mirrors were partially blocked by my shoulders, bar-end cures this.
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Got a knockoff GO PRO type action cam. Made a helmet mount and also a mount on the headlight.
Also made mounts for two of my other bikes and another helmet. And for my car dash.
Made a couple of test runs in the car and on the RE (40 miles)......works great....good fun.
Not intending to do blog, or vlog, or YOUTUBE crap....mostly for documentation for all the a'hole drivers around here...just in case something happens and I need to back up my story!
Cookie
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Got a knockoff GO PRO type action cam. Made a helmet mount and also a mount on the headlight.
Also made mounts for two of my other bikes and another helmet. And for my car dash.
Made a couple of test runs in the car and on the RE (40 miles)......works great....good fun.
Not intending to do blog, or vlog, or YOUTUBE crap....mostly for documentation for all the a'hole drivers around here...just in case something happens and I need to back up my story!
Cookie
We will just call you ‘Cookie Boots’
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Ha Ha Ha.....
I'll keep that moniker in mind if I ever have something interesting to put on YOUTUBE!
But 90% of my riding is the same old route, to the airport and back....uneventful and boring!
Cookie (Boots)
We will just call you ‘Cookie Boots’
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Just a thought....
"Itchy Cookies" :P
whattayathink?
Cookie
We will just call you ‘Cookie Boots’
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Just for a change nothing today (https://i.postimg.cc/RCgvm6G8/Re-Black.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1Gk92k9)
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Just for a change nothing today (https://i.postimg.cc/RCgvm6G8/Re-Black.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1Gk92k9)
I love the side panel and engine paint.
Did you do these yourself or have them done at a shop?
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For anyone interested in removing their EVAP system here's a lively, informative thread on the subject. I'm always looking for extraneous stuff to remove from my Interceptor, especially anything that could potentially cause an issue down the road. On the flip side, I park my motorcycles in my apartment through winter (or when I'm working on them), so anything that limits gas fumes will likely remain.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33130.msg409500#msg409500
On a side note, I miss zimmemr's consistently insightful contributions to the forum.
I miss him too, Blazes. I bet he's sitting on his porch, scotch in hand, cigar in the other, dreaming of ice-fishing walleye and cheering on the good folk here from the sidelines. No doubt rolling his eyes from time to time 😉
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I love the side panel and engine paint.
Did you do these yourself or have them done at a shop?
Hi Jess the cases are powder coated, i had these along with the side panels off a chap in India called Raju Lux. You will be able to contact him through facebook messenger. I had a tail piece done but did not come out at the right angle.
(https://i.postimg.cc/1tyRtp0y/20220728-122518.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XZD61BDP)
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Jess appologies it is RAKJU LAX
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Jess appologies it is RAKJU LAX
Thanks. Your bike looks really sharp with the custom seat cowl & side panels.
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Added a booster plug! Seemed to improve idle and throttle response. I will post any fuel milagage change asap.
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Aired up my tires hoping for some time to ride tomorrow. I was shocked at how much that stock Pirelli has squared off at only 4000 miles.
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Took the Dustland Mekha my wife's Interceptor and put it in mine and finished getting hers as close to stock as we cared to for a trade in on Saturday.
Soon there's gonna be a Scram 411 in our garage.
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Took the Dustland Mekha my wife's Interceptor and put it in mine and finished getting hers as close to stock as we cared to for a trade in on Saturday.
Soon there's gonna be a Scram 411 in our garage.
Nice. Bit lighter, but taller?
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Nice. Bit lighter, but taller?
It's about 60lbs lighter. A tad taller, but the center of gravity feels lower.
Most importantly, it's what she wants.
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Soon there's gonna be a Scram 411 in our garage.
Most importantly, it's what she wants.
We will, of course, need some pictures posted on this forum.
Side by side, preferably.
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We will, of course, need some pictures posted on this forum.
Side by side, preferably.
Will do. Hopefully we'll be able to take both bikes out on a nice breaking in ride on Saturday after we get the Scram home.
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Foot peg extenders...TEC or MFW?
Well long story so tune out if uninterested....If you are considering TEC offset foot pegs this may be of interest....
So I decided to install GT rearsets onto my INT650....with the low clip on bars I had previously installed I figured the rear sets might give a nicer riding position.
After installing the rearsets, I really liked the REARWARD position of the foot pegs....
BUT...by moving the feet rearward, the knees went downward and no longer meet well with the tank. I like keeping a firm grip on the tank with my inner thighs!
So I experimented a bit with some home-brew (crude) pegs and found that by raising them about 2", I could get my legs reasonably up onto the tank.
So the first solution seemed to be the TEC adjustable foot pegs
(https://i.imgur.com/6d60HEb.jpg)
I ordered these in 25mm offset as well as the 40 mm
Most people use these to LOWER their pegs to give straighter legs.
I intend to offset the pegs UPWARD giving more bended knees and knees higher up to the tank.
Now you may have seen my other thread on how I have yet to receive the shipment of these TEC foot pegs as they are lost in the ozone somewhere, and it's been weeks now.
So a bit more research turned up this company from Germany ...MFW
(https://i.imgur.com/HL95bLG.jpg)
Looks like a higher quality version of the TEC pegs (a lot more expensive too, and expensive shipping) Probably where TEC got the idea as the adjustment system is identical !!
The MFW comes with up to 50 mm offset (I ordered the 50 mm)
Here's the rub....MFW sets are BIKE SPECIFIC....and they do not offer a set compatible with the RE650!
BUT....they do list one compatible with the OLD Continental GT 535!!!!
I asked them to see if any of their versions would fit the 650 and they said that they searched but the answer was "no"
So.....I ordered a rider foot peg for a GT535....from India
It arrived from India in 4 days....
It "almost" fits the INT 650......just a tiny bit of grinding...and it fits perfectly!
So I ordered the kit from MFW for the 535.....and will adapt it to the 650....
Waiting for the delivery from Germany!
Cookie
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Foot peg extenders...TEC or MFW?
Good find and good info on the 535 pegs.
Thanks Cookie-Boots.
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Jess,
although the 535 pegs do fit, (after a tiny bit of fettling), the 535 pegs are kinda crude compared to the 650 pegs.
But if simple is better, these will work....just cast aluminum....no rubber inserts, etc.
-Itchy Cookies
Good find and good info on the 535 pegs.
Thanks Cookie-Boots.
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MFW adjustable pegs, top drawer kit. I had them on a Vstrom
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Thanks for the recommendation. I am getting both the TEC and the MFW.
On the "net" at least, MFW looks like no compromise German engineering and machining.
I'll compartethe to TEC....
Cookie
MFW adjustable pegs, top drawer kit. I had them on a Vstrom
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I got the TEC foot pegs with extender arm today and installed them.
They are very good quality machining and finish.
They did not really fit all that well....BUT the problem is with Royal Enfield not TEC....
The hanger brackets on the RE are really crudely made....the openings are not parallel.
The RE foot pegs are made way undersize, so the fit easily and have lots of "slop".
The TEC pegs are made very well and true....but they did not fit the poorly made RE hangers...so I had to grind and file just a bit on the pegs.
The foot position is much improved...up about 1-1/2" and forward about 1/2"....puts my inner thighs more on the tank.
I have the German version of these pegs coming soon...with even more offset.....I'll try and see which I like better
Cookie
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I got the TEC foot pegs with extender arm today and installed them.
They are very good quality machining and finish.
They did not really fit all that well....BUT the problem is with Royal Enfield not TEC....
The hanger brackets on the RE are really crudely made....the openings are not parallel.
The RE foot pegs are made way undersize, so the fit easily and have lots of "slop".
The TEC pegs are made very well and true....but they did not fit the poorly made RE hangers...so I had to grind and file just a bit on the pegs.
The foot position is much improved...up about 1-1/2" and forward about 1/2"....puts my inner thighs more on the tank.
I have the German version of these pegs coming soon...with even more offset.....I'll try and see which I like better
Cookie
I'm going to be interested to hear if the longer offset part is interchangeable between them.
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I bought the entire kit from MFW....
I'll let you know if the parts are interchangeable between brands
I'm going to be interested to hear if the longer offset part is interchangeable between them.
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I rode it to work. It was cold… 34f ambient with 91% humidity @ 65 mph…. In my highlighter yellow reflective snow suit and insulated timberland steel toes….. I was cold. After about 10 miles I was wishing I had taken the Jeep. But the Jeep uses a weeks worth of gas for the interceptor in 1 trip….. I need a closer job…. Or move closer to work. FYI…. These gloves say they are wind proof and waterproof…. It is a horrible lie…. I have even saturated them in mink oil and silicone rain shield….. they didn’t even keep my hands warm
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The MFW pegs dont fit into the RE brackets, they will need a bit of easing like the TEC ones.
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I fully expect that.
But if the MFW kits doesn't fit, I will probably grind out the RE brackets to parallel, rather than grinding the MFW parts.
The RE brackets have a "draft angle" because they are cheaply cast parts, you need the draft angle in order to remove the part from the mold. RE was too cheap to do any after-machine work....
The OEM RE foot pegs are made quite undersize, so they fit the poorly made brackets....and have a lot of side slop!
So I will do the after machine work and clean up the brackets and make them true and parallel.
BTW...rode 50 miles today on the TEC offset foot pegs.....really like the foot and body position!
Cookie
The MFW pegs dont fit into the RE brackets, they will need a bit of easing like the TEC ones.
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I fully expect that.
But if the MFW kits doesn't fit, I will probably grind out the RE brackets to parallel, rather than grinding the MFW parts.
The RE brackets have a "draft angle" because they are cheaply cast parts, you need the draft angle in order to remove the part from the mold. RE was too cheap to do any after-machine work....
The OEM RE foot pegs are made quite undersize, so they fit the poorly made brackets....and have a lot of side slop!
So I will do the after machine work and clean up the brackets and make them true and parallel.
BTW...rode 50 miles today on the TEC offset foot pegs.....really like the foot and body position!
Cookie
Definitely want to see this. Please post pictures.
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See which part?
Why it doesn't fit, how I fixed the TEC parts, or how I will make the MFW parts fit? Or how the RE part is tapered instead of parallel?
Big work for next two days, will post pictures on Monday
Cookie
Definitely want to see this. Please post pictures.
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Today was Amazon day so I installed a 2 channel USB port/ volt meter (temporary instal until I figure out where I want to mount it), handle bar muffs, a phone holder, and temporary heated hand grips (so I can remove them for the summer)
All this stuff is cheap Amazon crap but it will get me through until it starts snowing and I put Amelia up for the winter.
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Trying a small bit of bling. Just tape stripe cut to fit for now. If I end up liking I will paint it. (Royal Enfield logo on front brake master cylinder)
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I was having problems with my handlebar muffs deforming above 40mph making it difficult to use the clutch or front brake….
So I fixed it with hand guards
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Are you on the KTM forums now?
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What did I do to my dirtbike on Monday? Throw it down the trail, bike was fine!....Me? not so much.
I used my shoulder as a crumple zone, worked a treat. Dislocating the shoulder was a lot easier than A&E relocating it. After three goes at it they knocked me out so they could get on with it.
Thats me out of action for a while.
I was supposed to be going to Spain on the 20th for three days trail riding. :'( :'( :'(
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What did I do to my dirtbike on Monday? Throw it down the trail, bike was fine!....Me? not so much.
I used my shoulder as a crumple zone, worked a treat. Dislocating the shoulder was a lot easier than A&E relocating it. After three goes at it they knocked me out so they could get on with it.
Thats me out of action for a while.
I was supposed to be going to Spain on the 20th for three days trail riding. :'( :'( :'(
Ouch! Ouch! and Ouch! Sorry to hear that and glad you're well enough to type and share. There but for the grace of god go we. Wishing you a speedy recovery 💕
Ps, any words of wisdom about the wonders of protective safety gear, etc?
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What did I do to my dirtbike on Monday? Throw it down the trail, bike was fine!....Me? not so much.
I used my shoulder as a crumple zone, worked a treat. Dislocating the shoulder was a lot easier than A&E relocating it. After three goes at it they knocked me out so they could get on with it.
Thats me out of action for a while.
I was supposed to be going to Spain on the 20th for three days trail riding. :'( :'( :'(
OUCH Very sorry to hear that.
Unsolicited Advice: Losing the trip to Spain is sorta a cost of doing business ... but the big investment is still to come. That is when you get to the physical therapy part of it. Do what ever they tell you to do. Get a second opinion and do them both. Do your PT regiment for literally years after the pain goes away. Yes, the pain will go away. It goes away long before the healing is done. Drop the meds as soon as possible. Pain has a purpose. (Yes, I took mine out down in Mexico on the Baja) Again, sorry you got hurt.
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OUCH Very sorry to hear that.
Unsolicited Advice: Losing the trip to Spain is sorta a cost of doing business ... but the big investment is still to come. That is when you get to the physical therapy part of it. Do what ever they tell you to do. Get a second opinion and do them both. Do your PT regiment for literally years after the pain goes away. Yes, the pain will go away. It goes away long before the healing is done. Drop the meds as soon as possible. Pain has a purpose. (Yes, I took mine out down in Mexico on the Baja) Again, sorry you got hurt.
Unfortunately this is not my first foray into shoulder injury, nine years ago I had a rotator cuff repair on the same shoulder after throwing my R6 down the track. Left shoulder and lefthanded, of course.
Pills? not a lot of choice there, I have Ankylosing Spondylitis so have to keep shovelling the pills in to keep moving.
I am a good boy regarding physio etc, I do my exercises regularly and keep fit, exercise bike, bicycle, nordic walking and motorbikes.
I take it on the chin, just the price of being an idiot.
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installed a blue tooth wireless heat controller for jacket liner and gloves.
Also note WOODCRAFT clip on aluminum bars
Also note K-Tech fork kit fully adjustable
-Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/RFLTSXd.jpg)
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New smaller and streamlined tail bag AMAZON $17...removed hideous logos
Also GT rear sets on an INT.....with TEC bike parts offset foot pegs (upward orientation)
K-Tech rear shocks full adjustable
-Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/tRcwlFl.jpg)
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go pro mount on headlight -Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/voF6SXp.jpg)
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Helmet hanger on bar end. My own invention. Also see "secret" ignition switch....which is no longer a secret! :-X
Moto gadget turn signals....small but mighty
- Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/ju7wMtU.jpg)
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installed a blue tooth wireless heat controller for jacket liner and gloves.
Also note WOODCRAFT clip on aluminum bars
Also note K-Tech fork kit fully adjustable
-Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/RFLTSXd.jpg)
Are these the fork kits you installed? Are they really that expensive?
I like the look of them, all the others I’ve seen look like a cheese grater waiting to happen.
But $895? Really?
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Yep.....but that was the cheap part of the suspension upgrade.
AFAIK, K-tech are the only ones which result in full adjustability (not just "emulators")
K tech give you:
Preload adjust
compression adjust
rebound adjust
Are they worth the $$$ ???
Not really
I'm sure cheaper alternatives do just as well
Cookie
Are these the fork kits you installed? Are they really that expensive?
I like the look of them, all the others I’ve seen look like a cheese grater waiting to happen.
But $895? Really?
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Here's another full adjustment option: just a bit cheaper
My suspension guy prefers K-Tech so I went that way, but he says Andreani are also good.
Cookie
https://www.omniaracing.net/en/andreani-misano-evo-adjustable-hydraulic-cartridges-for-kayaba-for-royal-enfield-interceptor-650-p-140337.html
Yep.....but that was the cheap part of the suspension upgrade.
AFAIK, K-tech are the only ones which result in full adjustability (not just "emulators")
K tech give you:
Preload adjust
compression adjust
rebound adjust
Are they worth the $$$ ???
Not really
I'm sure cheaper alternatives do just as well
Cookie
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Yep.....but that was the cheap part of the suspension upgrade.
AFAIK, K-tech are the only ones which result in full adjustability (not just "emulators")
K tech give you:
Preload adjust
compression adjust
rebound adjust
Are they worth the $$$ ???
Not really
I'm sure cheaper alternatives do just as well
Cookie
How do the two damping adjustments work on those cartridges? Is it compression on one leg and rebound on the other, or have they somehow got both adjustments on top on both legs?
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Compression on one side
Rebound on the other
Preload on both
How do the two damping adjustments work on those cartridges? Is it compression on one leg and rebound on the other, or have they somehow got both adjustments on top on both legs?
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Compression on one side
Rebound on the other
Preload on both
Exactly "R"ight.
And as a trivia note:
The Rebound typically goes into the Right side leg. Only to help we riders remember which side does which based on the letter "R".
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installed a blue tooth wireless heat controller for jacket liner and gloves.
Also note WOODCRAFT clip on aluminum bars
Also note K-Tech fork kit fully adjustable
-Cookie
(https://i.imgur.com/RFLTSXd.jpg)
Hmm, Attractive.
Phil
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LOL....yeah in a hurry to ride in the cold...the multi color Velcro really sets it off, donit?
Looking for a more discrete mounting location but didn't find one yet!
Function over beauty! (for now)
Cookie
Hmm, Attractive.
Phil
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LOL....yeah in a hurry to ride in the cold...the multi color Velcro really sets it off, donit?
Looking for a more discrete mounting location but didn't find one yet!
Function over beauty! (for now)
Cookie
It's got a certain Spinal Tap elegance to it..
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Yes...those knobs go up to 11
It's got a certain Spinal Tap elegance to it..
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Rode it home from work during a snow storm…. Had ice crusted up on everything faced into the wind…. Now my clutch is slipping…
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Rode it home from work during a snow storm…. Had ice crusted up on everything faced into the wind…. Now my clutch is slipping…
Maybe ice got onto the clutch lever and took up the freeplay, that would cause it to slip. Once things have thawed out see if it still slips.
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Just for Phil....had do do this last night before I went to bed or else I wouldn't have been able to sleep.
(https://i.imgur.com/3nzdzWz.jpg)
Cookie
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Just for Phil....had do do this last night before I went to bed or else I wouldn't have been able to sleep.
(https://i.imgur.com/3nzdzWz.jpg)
Cookie
Better.
Phil
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Maybe ice got onto the clutch lever and took up the freeplay, that would cause it to slip. Once things have thawed out see if it still slips.
It’s been snowing on and off for 48 hours. Supposed to stop tomorrow. At that time I’m going to clean all the snow off, do a final ride, change the oil, and tarp her up for the winter. Then spend the next 3 months driving my 4wd 4dr prison
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Here's another full adjustment option: just a bit cheaper
My suspension guy prefers K-Tech so I went that way, but he says Andreani are also good.
Cookie
https://www.omniaracing.net/en/andreani-misano-evo-adjustable-hydraulic-cartridges-for-kayaba-for-royal-enfield-interceptor-650-p-140337.html
i have andreani cartridge kit on my ducati and i love them!
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i have andreani cartridge kit on my ducati and i love them!
Just be aware if you have any issues with the Andreani cartridges then you'll get zero assistance from Andreani themselves. I bought a pair for my Guzzi from a large retailer in Italy and although they sent the correct p/n cartridges per Andreanis web site the fork caps were the wrong thread pitch and Diameter. I emailed Andreani with images and details of what was sent and what was required and they said they would send me the correct caps until they found out I lived in Australia and the postage was going to be more than about 10 euros. They then basically told me sorry can't help. The retailer was caught in the middle and it eventually took me 6 months to get my money refunded and I lost about $100 dollars on the deal. The annoying part was after some internet research I found out this wasn't the first time this has happened to a Guzzi owner as the exact same thing had occurred to someone 3 years earlier. So Andreani hasn't updated the kit p/n to cover the later V11 Le Mans that came with the larger dia front forks. They just keep selling the same kit for all bikes from 2001-2006 even though the 04-05 caps are different. Just make sure the retailer you buy from has good customer service and does a lot of business with Andreani so they have some traction with them if you have an issue. As for the cartridges themselves, well they were ok for the RE but looked a bit light on for damper size for anything else. 20mm dampers are a bit undersized these days for faster bikes on our sort of roads.
Quality wise they look reasonable. Personally after my experience I'd opt for K-tech cartridges and spring for around the same price.
Phil
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I customized the back end so I could swap between the MK Designs shorty tail and the stock tail. I like the look of the shorty tail but I now have the option to put the full size tail back on so I can use the tail rack and panniers. Swapping the tail takes less than two minutes, no tools needed.
Shorty Tail
(https://i.imgur.com/yB7AtmI.jpeg)
Full Size Stock Tail
(https://i.imgur.com/X5Q2czC.jpeg)
Full Size Stock Tail with Luggage rack and Panniers
(https://i.imgur.com/Ru15AKX.jpeg)
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K tech and my local suspension guy were super easy to work with.
After the initial installation, I felt that the supplied springs were too strong.
K tech exchanged them at no cost to me.
Cookie
Just be aware if you have any issues with the Andreani cartridges then you'll get zero assistance from Andreani themselves. I bought a pair for my Guzzi from a large retailer in Italy and although they sent the correct p/n cartridges per Andreanis web site the fork caps were the wrong thread pitch and Diameter. I emailed Andreani with images and details of what was sent and what was required and they said they would send me the correct caps until they found out I lived in Australia and the postage was going to be more than about 10 euros. They then basically told me sorry can't help. The retailer was caught in the middle and it eventually took me 6 months to get my money refunded and I lost about $100 dollars on the deal. The annoying part was after some internet research I found out this wasn't the first time this has happened to a Guzzi owner as the exact same thing had occurred to someone 3 years earlier. So Andreani hasn't updated the kit p/n to cover the later V11 Le Mans that came with the larger dia front forks. They just keep selling the same kit for all bikes from 2001-2006 even though the 04-05 caps are different. Just make sure the retailer you buy from has good customer service and does a lot of business with Andreani so they have some traction with them if you have an issue. As for the cartridges themselves, well they were ok for the RE but looked a bit light on for damper size for anything else. 20mm dampers are a bit undersized these days for faster bikes on our sort of roads.
Quality wise they look reasonable. Personally after my experience I'd opt for K-tech cartridges and spring for around the same price.
Phil
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I installed a Tripper Nav display on my Interceptor and took the Beeline off. Having taken the Tripper for a couple of short runs, I'm not impressed with it. It keeps disconnecting and giving wrong information. The Beeline might be going back on!
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I customized the back end so I could swap between the MK Designs shorty tail and the stock tail. I like the look of the shorty tail but I now have the option to put the full size tail back on so I can use the tail rack and panniers. Swapping the tail takes less than two minutes, no tools needed.
Shorty Tail
Welcome and well done - so practical. I enjoyed watching your detailed video on how you did it. No doubt others will also appreciate it, so trust you don't mind me posting here.
https://youtu.be/vf205bF4n-w
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The bolt that holds the gear lever in place came out during a ride to the Royal National Park. Fortunately, Girl Guide alumna (aka Be Prepared) and forum member, gasket, had a tool kit on board as I'd swapped mine for a powertronic 🤦♂️ Gear lever was rotated 90 degrees but bolt hadn't dropped out so she was back up an running in no time.
Note to self: sell the bike, the bolts come loose! 🤪
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Welcome and well done - so practical. I enjoyed watching your detailed video on how you did it. No doubt others will also appreciate it, so trust you don't mind me posting here.
https://youtu.be/vf205bF4n-w
Ps, tubeless tyre conversion is also excellent - keep em coming!
https://youtu.be/7dTebUBmmdo
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Not today but recently, I installed the Hitchcock's extended mirror stems. Considered bar ends but wanted to keep the INT period correct. I've got rather wide shoulders and too much of the rear view was blocked. The extended stems work very well.
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Today I sorted out the instrument cluster that had been fogging up in the cold weather. It used fog up after about ten or fifteen minutes into a ride and obscure the lower half of both displays. But not any longer! I took it all apart, put a hair dryer on it for a while, wiped washing up liquid onto both glasses and then wiped it off, put it all back together again. And bingo, all sorted.
That's the abbreviated version. The first time I refitted the cluster, it didn't work, ie there was no display when the bike was switched on. I tracked it down to the clip that goes into the back of the cluster. It hadn't engaged properly when I put it back together, so I took it all out of the headlight again and had to refit it. A bit of a palaver, but all sorted in the end. I took it out for an hour in the cold and it was perfect.
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I customized the back end so I could swap between the MK Designs shorty tail and the stock tail.
Wow, thats sophisticated. No noise, rattles, and it's stable?
A pitty that we cannot install the short backs here - the angle of our registration plate must not exceed 60 degrees. 45 is not allowed at all. And side registration plate mounts look strange with our big plates.
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The idea is good but the execution is poor. What you end up with when you modify using this engineering methodology is what's obvious here, the droopy tail look with the original rails fitted. When you install the "long tail" or original loop back on it now isn't parallel with the original frame tube line and has a droopy tail look. This would drive me crazy looking at it. Modifying to achieve this interchangeability and maintain the line of the frame rails is more complex than it might seem as is illustrated here but a good start would be to forget about slotting the extension tubes and turn them on a lathe for the correct fit and weld them in place. It's by no means the total answer but a good place to start with the "engineering". if you're going to do it, do it right so it looks professional and has engineering integrity.
Phil
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YRREJ,
Any time Phil uses ‘good’ in a reply, its a compliment.
Phil can be pretty direct, but he knows his stuff and his advice is golden.
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Today I sorted out the instrument cluster that had been fogging up in the cold weather. It used fog up after about ten or fifteen minutes into a ride and obscure the lower half of both displays. But not any longer! I took it all apart, put a hair dryer on it for a while, wiped washing up liquid onto both glasses and then wiped it off, put it all back together again. And bingo, all sorted.
That's the abbreviated version. The first time I refitted the cluster, it didn't work, ie there was no display when the bike was switched on. I tracked it down to the clip that goes into the back of the cluster. It hadn't engaged properly when I put it back together, so I took it all out of the headlight again and had to refit it. A bit of a palaver, but all sorted in the end. I took it out for an hour in the cold and it was perfect.
dont you just have to remove the stickers at the back to fix the fogging issue? i doubt using detergent on the glasses is gonna last very long.
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dont you just have to remove the stickers at the back to fix the fogging issue? i doubt using detergent on the glasses is gonna last very long.
I removed mine 12 months ago and they are now fog free in all conditions.
Phil
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dont you just have to remove the stickers at the back to fix the fogging issue? i doubt using detergent on the glasses is gonna last very long.
I've just managed to find a previous thread that goes through all of this. I'll get my coat.......
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dont you just have to remove the stickers at the back to fix the fogging issue? i doubt using detergent on the glasses is gonna last very long.
Stickers?
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Rigged up my Enduro Route Sheet holder. Better than GPS. I'm leading some back road group rides. GPS doesn't always choose the best routes. I plan out my route on Google Maps....then copy route to Excel...
The Enduro Route sheet holder screws into the threaded boss where the left mirror used to be. (Bar end mirrors now)
(https://i.imgur.com/Vy5tdAX.jpg)
Cookie
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gicnEN-9BLc&t=315s
see the second half of the above video form TEC bike parts, about how the foot pegs on most INTEREPTORS are skewed rearward and out of alignment.
I thought about using those wedge washers, but they really don't fit that well.
So....I re-machined the bosses on the peg hanger casting, to the correct angle. Now when you tighten up the bolts, the foot peg is perpendicular to the center line of the motorcycle. And the brake lever is closer to the engine casing.
On my bike it was the right side which was way out....
Cookie
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gicnEN-9BLc&t=315s
see the second half of the above video form TEC bike parts, about how the foot pegs on most INTEREPTORS are skewed rearward and out of alignment.
I thought about using those wedge washers, but they really don't fit that well.
So....I re-machined the bosses on the peg hanger casting, to the correct angle. Now when you tighten up the bolts, the foot peg is perpendicular to the center line of the motorcycle. And the brake lever is closer to the engine casing.
On my bike it was the right side which was way out....
Cookie
It almost seems like Royal Enfield designed the GT foot pegs first, then modified them forward for the Interceptor.
Linkage, angle etc.
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It almost seems like Royal Enfield designed the GT foot pegs first, then modified them forward for the Interceptor.
Linkage, angle etc.
The GT pegs angle out as well, I stacked 4 washers between the hanger and frame on the top hanger bolt.
A bit of a bodge, but I wanted to experiment, it worked. Still there two years later.
SSHHH, no one has noticed
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Rigged up my Enduro Route Sheet holder. Better than GPS. I'm leading some back road group rides. GPS doesn't always choose the best routes. I plan out my route on Google Maps....then copy route to Excel..
Design your route on Google maps within MyRouteApp instead, then send it to your nav.
Satnavs are no different to google maps they will only do what they are told to do.
I travel all over Europe on minor roads, we often come cross road closures when the diversion may not best suit our needs, on the nav just zoom out see where the roads are and follow them realtime. Getting maps out in the pissing rain is no fun
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It almost seems like Royal Enfield designed the GT foot pegs first, then modified them forward for the Interceptor.
Linkage, angle etc.
That's probably the case. The CGT was the initial design, then they realized that they needed a standard version as well. Ironic that the Interceptor far outsells th GT.
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Yes the GT was the original design, but they added the INT.
I have GT rearsets on my INT....The INT brackets were pretty straight, but the GT right side bracket was way off....But a bit of machining straightened things out pretty well.
With the GT rear sets, you get the direct shifter with no linkages...nice....
Cookie
It almost seems like Royal Enfield designed the GT foot pegs first, then modified them forward for the Interceptor.
Linkage, angle etc.
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First of all I am not bright enough to figure out MY ROUTE APP....I don't even know WTF an APP is!
Second, I have the dirt-cheapest Garmin they ever made, and an old outdated one at that. I don't think it can import files or anything.
My super simple route sheets work just fine...but I also run the GPS at the same time.....they fight with each other!
The Garmin is full of errors...like it says to go straight when it is turn...or it says to turn when the road is staraight...it also has non-existent roads in it...also it has many road names incorrect.
But so far, I've returned home every time!
Cookie
Design your route on Google maps within MyRouteApp instead, then send it to your nav.
Satnavs are no different to google maps they will only do what they are told to do.
I travel all over Europe on minor roads, we often come cross road closures when the diversion may not best suit our needs, on the nav just zoom out see where the roads are and follow them realtime. Getting maps out in the pissing rain is no fun
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Stickers?
Two yellow round stickers under the clocks, peal them off and you'll get rid of the fog inside. it works since almost two years without any side effect.
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Two yellow round stickers under the clocks, peal them off and you'll get rid of the fog inside. it works since almost two years without any side effect.
Awesome… I wish I could thumbs up or like posts….
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Started yesterday with the 10k maintenance and found out that my old feeler gauge did not have the right increments... Decided to call it quits and tucked the little bike in with a blanket 😎 got a good feelergauge today the will continue this evening 🙂
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Awesome… I wish I could thumbs up or like posts….
👍🏻
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👍🏻
I don’t like using emojis, I just want a like button under the post
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Valve clearance adjustment. Not so bad a job after you've done it a few times.
Three of the valves were just a "hair" out of spec.
I put the gasket in place without using any adhesive or grease or goop of any kind.
Trick is to kinda get the rear part of the gasket into the groove, then get two of the hold down bolts started, but loose. This keeps the cover from sliding around, and allows you to "chase" the gasket around and get it into the groove!
Took the opportunity to sand and polish the rocker cover. It had become tarnished from last winter. Didn't do a complete "mirror" polish job, as I have a short attention span....but got it shinier than original and all of the corrosion sanded out of it.
Cookie
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...When you install the "long tail" or original loop back on it now isn't parallel with the original frame tube line and has a droopy tail look. ... turn them on a lathe for the correct fit and weld them in place.
Thanks for the feedback. Yes, a lathe and weld would be ideal but not something I have (yet.) :D As for the droopy look... it doesn't droop, it's perfectly parallel with the original frame, straight and tight. It may be the cowl in the photo that that angles up and away from the frame giving the illusion that it's droops.
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Wow, thats sophisticated. No noise, rattles, and it's stable?
Thanks - so far no issues, fits nice and tight without any noise or rattle.
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Ps, tubeless tyre conversion is also excellent - keep em coming!
https://youtu.be/7dTebUBmmdo
Thanks, I appreciate it! My first time ever working on a motorcycle so I'm just figuring things out as I go. YouTube is where I've been learning everything so I thought I'd share my attempts. Any mistakes I make will be pointed out by someone in the comments so that will help the next person ;D
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At work I adopted a Brazilian made machine that had been abused and left unused for a long time. Nursed it back to health, now produce with it. When I do, I put on Bossa Nova to make it feel appreciated, and because it makes me happy.
Tonight, for the same reasons I stopped and got vindaloo and some na'an.
Then I tore the cover off my Deluxe Touring seat, mercilessly violated its foam, inserted 20mm of green Jello and buttoned it back up.
The project looks successful, not difficult really at all. Just a little tedious and requires you to rip into something you'd rather not damage.
Sadly it's winter here and I won't get to try it out on any 10 hour rides for a long while.
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Cold weather riding....Installed some handle bar "muffs".
Not the $180 "Hippo Hands"...no, just the Chinese, Amazon, cheep-ass knock-offs....for 1/10 the price.
I've been riding with Gerbing heated jacket liner and heated gloves. The jacket liner is super warm....but the gloves don't do the job below about 40F (5C).
I try to ride when it is down to 1 or 2 C.....
So to install the muffs was a problem because of the bar end mirrors....I just got out my wood bruning tip for the soldering iron and burned a small hole through the side of the muffs. Removed the mirrors, install the muffs, then re installed the mirrors.
Havent riden with them as it is well below 0C today with snow coming..
(https://i.imgur.com/COhTQsn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVMIvGR.jpg)
Cookie
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sweet. i've given up on cold weather riding. used to ride through snow when i could. had a slight accident when i couldnt stop on a red light (it was on a slushy snow covered hill going down) and literally slid through the intersection and toppled over. decided it wasnt worth it after that haha!!
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Yeah....one of my favorite sayings: "sometimes you just have to come to grips with the stark reality of the situation"'
Any chance of snow or ice on the road, or below 0 degree C....I take the car...
Winter definitely came here yesterday....long range forecast is for below freezing for every day into the near future...oh well.
There is usually a day here and there when the temperatures go abnormally high, through the Winter...those cheap mufsf may work...otherwise I'm out only $18...worth a try!
Cookie
sweet. I've given up on cold weather riding. used to ride through snow when i could. had a slight accident when i couldn't stop on a red light (it was on a slushy snow covered hill going down) and literally slid through the intersection and toppled over. decided it wasn't worth it after that haha!!
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I've tried a couple types of heated gloves with no luck.
Trying these 2 things next.
I'd like to ride down to 35F but my fingers can't take more than 10 miles at speed.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303506525533
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Waterproof-Electronic-Temperature-adjustable/dp/B08XQJ4WN6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Heated%2BMotorcycle%2BGrips&qid=1671406798&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExOTlLQ1JSWDAzTENEJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTU2OTE1M0tVQ1hPMkE3WlY4SiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjk1NTg2MkZXOFE2TlRIR0tDVyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
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I have (arguable) "the best" heated gloves out there....
They don't work much at 35 F !!!!
The air flow just takes all the heat away!
Those wind deflectors seem like they might do the trick, along with heated gloves...kinda pricy! but if they work who cares?
I'm not sure I could use the bar end mirrors with them?
I never had heated grips....I know many who swear by them, but usually those with full windshields and fairings.
Cookie
Yinzer said:
I've tried a couple types of heated gloves with no luck.
Trying these 2 things next.
I'd like to ride down to 35F but my fingers can't take more than 10 miles at speed.
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Cold weather riding....Installed some handle bar "muffs".
I was thinking about muffs.
If what I'm doing doesn't work, that'll be what I try next.
I used them Hang Gliding in the winter and they worked well.
The wind was only hitting our hands around 18 mph (average) but, the temp was below 32F.
We tossed a "hot hands" chemical warmer in each one and were quite comfortable.
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I have (arguable) "the best" heated gloves out there....
They don't work much at 35 F !!!!
The air flow just takes all the heat away!
Those wind deflectors seem like they might do the trick, along with heated gloves...kinda pricy! but if they work who cares?
I'm not sure I could use the bar end mirrors with them?
I never had heated grips....I know many who swear by them, but usually those with full windshields and fairings.
Cookie
Yinzer said:
I've tried a couple types of heated gloves with no luck.
Trying these 2 things next.
I'd like to ride down to 35F but my fingers can't take more than 10 miles at speed.
My credentials for this topic is, I grew up riding in New England.
The hipo-hand devices with heated grips do work. But they come wih some hassle and limitations.
You should browse around for "hunting mittens with finger flaps". Or two finger mittens. Get them with gauntlets and without heating system. They are affordable water/ wind proof and tough. Tons of choices $25 - $40.
They are essentially wearable hippo-hands. New riders may find them awkward but grizzly riders will adapt in minutes.
_ Now for the heat: With minimal skill any one can wire up these 12V DC silicon heating pads. $20 for 4 of them.
The fit inside your new mittens (they can be used in lots of ways like tucked into your waistband)
https://www.amazon.com/Icstation-50X100mm-Silicone-Electric-Temperature/dp/B07PFHLP53/ref=sr_1_1?crid=13HXX0VUDCH9P&keywords=4%2BPCS%2BSilicone%2BHeater%2BMat%2C%2BIcstation%2BRubber%2BHeating%2BMat%2B12V%2B15W%2BElectric%2BBlanket%2BFlexible%2BMat&qid=1671413892&s=industrial&sprefix=4%2Bpcs%2Bsilicone%2Bheater%2Bmat%2C%2Bicstation%2Brubber%2Bheating%2Bmat%2B12v%2B15w%2Belectric%2Bblanket%2Bflexible%2Bmat%2B%2Cindustrial%2C179&sr=1-1&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Icstation-50X100mm-Silicone-Electric-Temperature/dp/B07PFHLP53/ref=sr_1_1?crid=13HXX0VUDCH9P&keywords=4%2BPCS%2BSilicone%2BHeater%2BMat%2C%2BIcstation%2BRubber%2BHeating%2BMat%2B12V%2B15W%2BElectric%2BBlanket%2BFlexible%2BMat&qid=1671413892&s=industrial&sprefix=4%2Bpcs%2Bsilicone%2Bheater%2Bmat%2C%2Bicstation%2Brubber%2Bheating%2Bmat%2B12v%2B15w%2Belectric%2Bblanket%2Bflexible%2Bmat%2B%2Cindustrial%2C179&sr=1-1&th=1)
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If you want to keep warm, good quality heated grips and handle bar muffs. You will look like a muppet, but a warm one.
I think Oxford Touring Grips are great, had them on two different bikes.
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I have ridden motorcycles in 0 degree temperatures and heated grips help but it's core body temperature that's more important.Extra thermal layers or a heated vest if you can afford it.
Amazon £50, rechargeable.
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you got a link to this?
I have ridden motorcycles in 0 degree temperatures and heated grips help but it's core body temperature that's more important.Extra thermal layers or a heated vest if you can afford it.
Amazon £50, rechargeable.
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https://www.amazon.co.uk/Electric-Charging-Underwear-Intelligent-Temperature/dp/B0BFHCTSVQ/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=v6z17&content-id=amzn1.sym.31c9090c-9b65-4f91-bf37-04dd92281172&pf_rd_p=31c9090c-9b65-4f91-bf37-04dd92281172&pf_rd_r=ZTK0JS2S2BF9HBN6715J&pd_rd_wg=pFTtD&pd_rd_r=13296f01-c890-4b4f-bf68-0f4865d74162&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi
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you got a link to this?
I wear body armor nearly all the time. In the summer I wear it alone as a mesh jacket. In the winter and at night I wear it under my jacket. I added DIY heat using the silicon heat pads. And to James' point I have some positioned over my kidneys.
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=diy+heated+vest&t=ffab&atb=v320-1&df=w&iax=images&ia=images&iar=images (https://duckduckgo.com/?q=diy+heated+vest&t=ffab&atb=v320-1&df=w&iax=images&ia=images&iar=images)
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I tried out the handle bar muffs today. Temperature 0 - C Full overcast so no sun radiant heat
Not bad! Big improvement.
Heated jacket liner on 1/2 heat....gloves on full.
Hands were certainly not "hot" but acceptable.
Had to get used to being "handcuffed" to the handlebars....quick learning curve, and how to pull the hand out to do something and slip it back in again. Turn signals not so easy but figured it out.
Muffs well worth the $16
Cookie
Cold weather riding....Installed some handle bar "muffs".
Not the $180 "Hippo Hands"...no, just the Chinese, Amazon, cheep-ass knock-offs....for 1/10 the price.
I've been riding with Gerbing heated jacket liner and heated gloves. The jacket liner is super warm....but the gloves don't do the job below about 40F (5C).
I try to ride when it is down to 1 or 2 C.....
So to install the muffs was a problem because of the bar end mirrors....I just got out my wood bruning tip for the soldering iron and burned a small hole through the side of the muffs. Removed the mirrors, install the muffs, then re installed the mirrors.
Havent riden with them as it is well below 0C today with snow coming..
(https://i.imgur.com/COhTQsn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVMIvGR.jpg)
Cookie
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Not quite today... We had sub-zero temperatures for about a week, with no riding opportunity, so I got this solar trickle charger: it's got some mixed reviews on Amazon, but mostly positive.
ECO-WORTHY 10W 12V Solar Trickle... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08K3BQTNK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I connected it to the bike via a cigarette lighter socket, that reaches the battery via an sae tail. The plug on the solar lead shoes a diode light when the panel gets any light... its position means it doesn't get direct sun.
The diode stays on at night, which of course means it's fed back by the battery, but the manual claims this is insignificant. It also says it has diodes to prevent reverse charging.
I might take a multimeter to it to check, but wondering if anyone has any experience with these or similar.
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These arrived yesterday, custom order from PVM.
Phil
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These arrived yesterday, custom order from PVM.
Phil
That's an expensive tubeless conversion.
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These arrived yesterday, custom order from PVM.
Phil
You have my attention.
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New starter motor - original developed a loud rattle and I thought it was going to grenade at some point.
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These arrived yesterday, custom order from PVM.
Phil
Wow!! When do we get to see them installed?
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For another bike - they are way too wide for the 650...
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For another bike - they are way too wide for the 650...
Maybe I like the "fat" look :) Or maybe they are for this?
Ciao
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I hope she survives… it’s -7F. We’re moving on Monday and she’s going into a garage.
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Replaced the mudguards on my Orange Crush with black ones. Painted the front mudguard fork brace and the OEM tail light housing to match. Going to remove the headlight brackets today and work on those. I'll post pics when done. Too cold and wet to ride, so may as well get some things done!
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Winter is too warm for skiing, so it's time for some upgrades
- Replaced plastic fenders by polished alu fenders I found for a reasonable price in the bay.
- Front fender holder, front lamp holders, and the tail tidy are now black, as they should be by default.
- Rear indicators are now smaller round ones made of alu. The ugly plastic extenders are also replaced by a pair of smaller alu extenders. Front indicators are still the old ones, I wait for alu extenders, too.
- Tail light is now a smaller one, but still Lucas style. The licence plate holder is now a solid alu plate. Lighter, but more stable
- Chain guard is replaced by one made of a stainless steel. Nobody will realize, but who cares
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Winter is too warm for skiing, so it's time for some upgrades
- Replaced plastic fenders by polished alu fenders I found for a reasonable price in the bay.
- Front fender holder, front lamp holders, and the tail tidy are now black, as they should be by default.
- Rear indicators are now smaller round ones made of alu. The ugly plastic extenders are also replaced by a pair of smaller alu extenders. Front indicators are still the old ones, I wait for alu extenders, too.
- Tail light is now a smaller one, but still Lucas style. The licence plate holder is now a solid alu plate. Lighter, but more stable
- Chain guard is replaced by one made of a stainless steel. Nobody will realize, but who cares
It looks really good
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It looks really good
Thanks. First I thought about choping the sub frame, and mounting a round back light and small LED indicators. But I wanted to keep the two seater option, and I realized that the sub frame on our RE is very unique today, it's pretty much like a wonderful Norton Commando. So I decided to go that way. It's funny - I play guitar and I love to pimp cheapos, e.g. to make a Fender out of a Squire. It's the same with the bike now - not very rational, but fun.
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Finaly got the look I wanted.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/imlc4J.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmimlc4Jj)
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Finaly got the look I wanted.
I’m going to award you a Michelin star for design. Royal Enfield should have offered your exact design as a factory option, it’s beautiful.
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Fitted my Tripper . It takes some getting used to but it looks great.
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I fitted these too.
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I’m going to award you a Michelin star for design. Royal Enfield should have offered your exact design as a factory option, it’s beautiful.
Thankyou Jess, I need to find a star for the garage door lol
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Is it camera angle or are the white stripes not parallel? Sorry, but that spoils it for me…
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Is it camera angle or are the white stripes not parallel? Sorry, but that spoils it for me…
Your shout. (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/k5iBqN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmk5iBqNj)
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Your shout. (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/k5iBqN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmk5iBqNj)
Sorry but I'm not "feeling it" either.
Phil
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Sorry but I'm not "feeling it" either.
Phil
No worries Phil , it pleases me .
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Sorry but I'm not "feeling it" either.
Phil
The stock ‘any color you want as long as its black’ side cover is a way to cut costs and it shows.
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Your shout.
Looks really nice to me. What is the seat and rack combo and where did you get it?
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Your shout. (https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/k5iBqN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmk5iBqNj)
Ah, much better pic. Nice work Kes
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The stock ‘any color you want as long as its black’ side cover is a way to cut costs and it shows.
I wouldn't say that Jess.
Phil
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Looks really nice to me. What is the seat and rack combo and where did you get it?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.soldoutmotorcycles.com/&ved=2ahUKEwjZxvD2lsH8AhXMOcAKHfLLAIMQFnoECAsQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0y7O4QPVnVz8rHG_ZX02Dj
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Nice work Kes
Agree :)...That looks pretty darn cool.
The side cover pulls it all together.
I'm not generally a big fan of black rims but that seriously works.
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I'm not generally a big fan of black rims but that seriously works.
The black rims are stock with most Enfields. Only two colour schemes (orange crush and dux deluxe) come with silver rims.
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The black rims are stock with most Enfields. Only two colour schemes (orange crush and dux deluxe) come with silver rims.
And the MKIII (Black tank)
2019-2021
Great for formal occasions.
Weddings, funerals, opera....etc.
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That rug really pulled the room together, Dude.
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The black rims are stock with most Enfields. Only two colour schemes (orange crush and dux deluxe) come with silver rims.
my 2021 mr clean came with silver rims. although tbh i wish i had waited a year to get the stock black rims instead. they cost a LOT from the dealer to replace.
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my 2021 mr clean came with silver rims. although tbh i wish i had waited a year to get the stock black rims instead. they cost a LOT from the dealer to replace.
I think they changed the colour scheme with the appearance of EUR5 models later in 2021, as well as the color of the tank logo (from black to gold). For me the silver rims and silver mudguards look pretty good, more authentic. Yes, the rims are expensive - 350$ for a set of rims, without spokes. Cheapest I found in the web.
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That rug really pulled the room together, Dude.
(https://i.imgflip.com/2/1dym5m.jpg)
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Added two reserve fuel bottles to my pannier bags. 1.5 liters combined.
Probably will never need them, but they do offer some piece of mind. Plus I think they look cool. Just my opinion.
Mounts are from Dryspec, fuel bottles from Amazon.
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Mounts are from Dryspec
Would those fit a wine bottle?
Just asking :)
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Would those fit a wine bottle?
Just asking :)
Yes but only red.
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Not 'today', per se- more like this winter.
I chose to spend bucks and time altering my GT for comfort and function this winter, and am just wrapping it up.
I added Craven hard bags (three thumbs up, very, very nice parts). These are a huge improvement over the factory canvas bags in my opinion.
To make the bags fit I had to fit low mount mufflers, as sold by Hitchcocks. Nicely made, a little louder than I'd prefer but I'm happy.
Also used turn signals from Dime City Cycles. They're really nice and easier to alter than the factory ones.
Replaced the factory shocks with YSS models from Hitchcock's, as well as the fork kit. Couldn't be happier with either.
Added a gel insert to my seat, for at least an extra hour of comfort over the Premium Touring seat without it. Sourced from Amazon, US made. Ultragel brand, 5/8" thick. Very happy.
So far nothing I've altered has been a letdown, I just like the bike more and more as it changes. I think it's interesting to compare my choices with others' here.
Looking forward to summer time and some long rides!
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Added the RE black small engine casing crash bars.
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Followed BlackIce's example and added trim to the seam of the tank. I like it. And, actually, the trim covered more of the seam than I thought it would.
That looks excellent. I've been struggling with the Downtown Drag tank looks and this will definitely help!
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These showed up today.
Phil
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These showed up today.
Phil
Do they match the rest of the engine? They look almost white.
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Do they match the rest of the engine? They look almost white.
Trick of the light, they're a grey colour but I know what you mean. I might bead blast off the paint for the natural finish. I'll decide when the fitment time comes.
Phil
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Hey guys,
I've got a long list of mods, but last weekend I replaced the switchgear, headlight bucket, windshield, and throttle.
Throttle is from Domino, the rest are cheap stuff from Aliexpress. Oddly they've been of decent quality so far!
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
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Hey guys,
I've got a long list of mods, but last weekend I replaced the switchgear, headlight bucket, windshield, and throttle.
Throttle is from Domino, the rest are cheap stuff from Aliexpress. Oddly they've been of decent quality so far!
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
Very cool!! Was the change made out of issues with the stock gear or just because you wanted to change the looks?
Either way, that looks great!
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Hey guys,
I've got a long list of mods, but last weekend I replaced the switchgear, headlight bucket, windshield, and throttle.
Throttle is from Domino, the rest are cheap stuff from Aliexpress. Oddly they've been of decent quality so far!
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
Tell me about that throttle. Does it make full throttle with less angle change than the stock one?
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Bling #3. Fly screen. Thank goodness for Uncle Stu vids. He's right. The RE instructions are microscopic, especially for old eyes. Crazy....
Also did the Bosch relay upgrade and hosed out all the connectors. There was a lot of that white stuff! Now cleaned and replaced with dielectric grease. Feel better about that.
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Following other member's leads here, I got the stripping for the bottom seam of the tank and wow, what a difference! I've been struggling with bringing the Downtown Drag tank to life and this really helped give it a far more finished look. I also added a leather tank strap and knee pads today. I think I'm happy! ;D
Also added a small luggage rack for a small case I have in stock. Have to carry a couple cold ones for the rest stops, ya know...... 8)
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Following other member's leads here, I got the stripping for the bottom seam of the tank and wow, what a difference!
All classic bikes I know have that seam, and no manufacturer hides it. It's part of the bike like welds, wires, cables. So why hiding it? But this is just my own opinion.
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Hey guys,
I've got a long list of mods, but last weekend I replaced the switchgear, headlight bucket, windshield, and throttle.
Throttle is from Domino, the rest are cheap stuff from Aliexpress. Oddly they've been of decent quality so far!
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/1005004574922075.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.121.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000199543803.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000278873674.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.61.4ee9194dzLFIvI&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp)
The links show for 25mm dia handlebars. Do they supply split sleeves to suit the 22mm handlebars?
Phil
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All classic bikes I know have that seam, and no manufacturer hides it. It's part of the bike like welds, wires, cables. So why hiding it? But this is just my own opinion.
Personal preference, is all. Honestly, if it would have been a bright color or chrome, I probably would have left it alone. The Downtown Drag matte finish, along with the teal stripe ending before the seam, and not following through the weld bugged me, and needed tending and tidying.....but I'm terrible OCD. ;D
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More modding today. I added the DNA kit, Powerage polished shorty's, RE Skid Pan (for that "front bumper" oil filter) and the black small engine guards. Again, with the DD motif, I opted for the black bars instead of chrome.
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Thanks!
To be honest, I thought the stock switchgear looked pretty cheap. The new one has a couple of changes in function that make it better, some that make it worse. Positives: I can turn on or off the front headlight. It also has a couple of "spare" buttons for auxiliaries and such. And they look cool.
Negatives: the turn signal switch has to be slid back to cancel it; the stock one you must push it, which is more intuitive in my opinion. Once you go with the custom switches you almost HAVE to replace the original throttle, sin its noncompatible with the custom switchgear.
Very cool!! Was the change made out of issues with the stock gear or just because you wanted to change the looks?
Either way, that looks great!
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Hey! It does. The throttle comes with 3 different plastic rings to change throttle responsiveness. It's basically standard-adaptive-sporty levels.
Tell me about that throttle. Does it make full throttle with less angle change than the stock one?
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It did not... I actually just went with a pretty unelegant solution using with black electric tape as sleeve. I plan on finding a better, less crappy solution soon.
The links show for 25mm dia handlebars. Do they supply split sleeves to suit the 22mm handlebars?
Phil
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It did not... I actually just went with a pretty unelegant solution using with black electric tape as sleeve. I plan on finding a better, less crappy solution soon.
You might try replacing the black tape with a grip heater replacement pad. ;)
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Good idea! I definitely need a less janky alternative
You might try replacing the black tape with a grip heater replacement pad. ;)
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Corbin seat came today. Perfect fit a d I'm happy with my very conservative colour choices. Maybe could have even done the welts in black.
Seems like a high quality piece. Doesn't suit the bikes style as well as the RE touring seat, but if it actually is much more comfortable I am okay with that. It'll still be several weeks here before I can find out. 2 C with ice rain today...
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Corbin seat came today. Perfect fit a d I'm happy with my very conservative colour choices. Maybe could have even done the welts in black.
Seems like a high quality piece. Doesn't suit the bikes style as well as the RE touring seat, but if it actually is much more comfortable I am okay with that. It'll still be several weeks here before I can find out. 2 C with ice rain today...
That looks really nice. I like the white seat stripe with the white tank stripe. I had a Corbin on a Harley and really liked it. I hope it works out for you!
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I think it's done. I added the Trip Machine Wingman bags today.Seemed to help blend the bikes appearance with the DD matte finish tank. The glossy side covers with the red and white didn't work for me. Happy now! :D Uncle Stu was right. I'm very happy with the quality of these bags, and the entire mounting process. Good stuff.
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Corbin seat came today. Perfect fit a d I'm happy with my very conservative colour choices. Maybe could have even done the welts in black.
Seems like a high quality piece. Doesn't suit the bikes style as well as the RE touring seat, but if it actually is much more comfortable I am okay with that. It'll still be several weeks here before I can find out. 2 C with ice rain today...
Sorry, horrible. Expensive, heavy, locks you into one seating position, collects rain water.
Phil
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Sorry, horrible. Expensive, heavy, locks you into one seating position, collects rain water.
Phil
Definitely expensive. Like, stoopid expensive. Not true at all about locking you in. The bum stop is further back than my normal position. Lots of room to slide forward towards the tank. I actually wish the wide part was a bit further forward.
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Sorry, horrible. Expensive, heavy, locks you into one seating position, collects rain water.
Phil
They remind me of these ridiculous bicycle seats. When you see one on a bicycle, you know the owner spends very, very little time riding.
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Definitely expensive. Like, stoopid expensive. Not true at all about locking you in. The bum stop is further back than my normal position. Lots of
room to slide forward
the tank. I actually wish
the wide part was a bit
Ah well, I like it, it's just money, enjoy it mate 👍
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By the way, was the spider real?
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By the way, was the spider real?
Yes. My partner picked it up in Mexico I think. Strange choice of a momento because he is terrified of spiders. Like, he screams like a little girl when there is a spider in the sink and I have to come rescue him.
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Definitely expensive. Like, stoopid expensive. Not true at all about locking you in. The bum stop is further back than my normal position. Lots of room to slide forward towards the tank. I actually wish the wide part was a bit further forward.
It wasn't the for/aft movement I was thinking about but the lateral. A seat like yours means you can't move side to side on the seat for a some weight transfer during cornering under some conditions. You end up locked into a central location like the mast on a ship. Even on bikes like the 650 some lateral movement is good for some riding otherwise you may as well be on a cruiser. I've said it a million times you can get the comfort and have the standard look of the bikes by simply wearing cycling "nicks" with the padded chamois gusset under your jeans/pants.
Cheap, easy, super comfortable and save tons of money on heavy aftermarket seats or those hideous lambs wool seat covers.
Phil
Phil
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It wasn't the for/aft movement I was thinking about but the lateral. A seat like yours means you can't move side to side on the seat for a some weight transfer during cornering under some conditions. You end up locked into a central location like the mast on a ship. Even on bikes like the 650 some lateral movement is good for some riding otherwise you may as well be on a cruiser. I've said it a million times you can get the comfort and have the standard look of the bikes by simply wearing cycling "nicks" with the padded chamois gusset under your jeans/pants.
Cheap, easy, super comfortable and save tons of money on heavy aftermarket seats or those hideous lambs wool seat covers.
Phil
Phil
Ah yes, good point regarding sneaking half a cheek of the seat for cornering. I'll have to see to what degree that is inhibited. That *is* part of my riding style, although quite a bit less so on this bike than on the Ducati. I find as long as I get my upper body to the inside I am usually in good shape on this bike, at the grandpa speeds I currently enjoy on the backroads.
(Ironically, I noticed a long time ago that you are somewhat crossed up in that photo of you track riding on your nice yellow SSie...but I was too polite to mention it.)
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I fitted my new headlight.
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Well, it wasn't today, but a work in progress. So far:
Aftermarket levers
Bar end mirrors
Slightly lowered clip ons
Painted front fender bracket
Aftermarket headlights
Low profile signals
Aftermarket rear light
Outex tubeless conversion
Painted rims black
Eliminated the rear fender
Added solo seat cowl
2 into 1 Tec Exhaust
150 rear tire
Exhaust wrap
Upcoming mods:
Grip wrap
MK Designs upper fairing
Sump guard
Loving this bike!!
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Well, it wasn't today, but a work in progress. So far:
Aftermarket levers
Bar end mirrors
Slightly lowered clip ons
Painted front fender bracket
Aftermarket headlights
Low profile signals
Aftermarket rear light
Outex tubeless conversion
Painted rims black
Eliminated the rear fender
Added solo seat cowl
2 into 1 Tec Exhaust
150 rear tire
Exhaust wrap
Upcoming mods:
Grip wrap
MK Designs upper fairing
Sump guard
Loving this bike!!
You also have black injector covers and heel guards. Did they come on the bike or did you swap?
My GT has the aluminum ones but came with black rims.
Your bike looks really good. The gold looks really good against the White & Black.
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You also have black injector covers and heel guards. Did they come on the bike or did you swap?
My GT has the aluminum ones but came with black rims.
Your bike looks really good. The gold looks really good against the White & Black.
Thanks! Yes, it came with the black covers and guards. They didn't have the model I wanted with black rims so off to the paint booth.
I wasn't crazy about the tank at first, but the more I mod it, the more it grows on me.
Thanks again!
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Nice one !
the only thing, in my opinion, is why this ugly exhaust wrapping ? Phil will correct me if needed, but I think the only result is to help the exhaust to overheat, which is not an improvement, the aesthetic point of view is personal, to each his own.
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yah the wrap i'm definitely not a fan of. and personally i *hate* that version of the RE logo. looks too cartoonish and doesnt look very classic to me. they obviously need a smaller badge form but i dont think it belongs on the side of the tank tbh.
but hey, everyones bike is to their liking. i know people HATE the brown on my mr. clean gt650 lol.
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Nice one !
the only thing, in my opinion, is why this ugly exhaust wrapping ? Phil will correct me if needed, but I think the only result is to help the exhaust to overheat, which is not an improvement, the aesthetic point of view is personal, to each his own.
Thanks. And as for the wrap, I get lots of compliments.
I think you're ugly. How you like that?😃
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yah the wrap i'm definitely not a fan of. and personally i *hate* that version of the RE logo. looks too cartoonish and doesnt look very classic to me. they obviously need a smaller badge form but i dont think it belongs on the side of the tank tbh.
but hey, everyones bike is to their liking. i know people HATE the brown on my mr. clean gt650 lol.
I asked for a different logo. They didn't have one handy. Glad I didn't wrap the pipes for approval.🤣🤣
Yeah, the brown on the Mr. Clean....nah, leave it. It gives it character...or something.🙂
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Thanks. And as for the wrap, I get lots of compliments.
I think you're ugly. How you like that?😃
But I am ugly ;D
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But I am ugly ;D
😂
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But I am ugly ;D
DAMNIT!!🤣🤣
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Nice one !
the only thing, in my opinion, is why this ugly exhaust wrapping ? Phil will correct me if needed, but I think the only result is to help the exhaust to overheat, which is not an improvement, the aesthetic point of view is personal, to each his own.
No need for correction here, exhaust wrap is pointless and a mistake on many levels. I like the painted black rims and matching grey hubs, very nice look.
Phil
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What I did to my bike today...
Hmmm...
I bought it! ;D
The journey begins today with a shiny new 2023 RE Interceptor 650, in Baker Express (which I hear is the fastest color).
-
The journey begins today...
Congratulations!
And welcome ;D
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No need for correction here, exhaust wrap is pointless and a mistake on many levels. I like the painted black rims and matching grey hubs, very nice look.
Phil
Simply cosmetic, my detailed friend.
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What I did to my bike today...
Hmmm...
I bought it! ;D
The journey begins today with a shiny new 2023 RE Interceptor 650, in Baker Express (which I hear is the fastest color).
Great ! Congrats and welcome !
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Preparing the Basmati Rocket for its ECU flash and and dyno-tune.
The wizard of Ossining managed to pull sixty horsepower—I don't recall the torque numbers—from NJ Mike's Continental GT with just the high compression pistons and Hitchcock’s stage 2 camshaft installed. (Let’s not overlook the hours Wrenchjockie spent polishing the ports and combustion chambers.) I've got the 865 kit with the S&S cam and zero polishing. People have reported some comparatively weak numbers from their 865s but that's with a piggyback ECU such as the Power Commander or PowerTronic (which allows a certain amount of ignition mapping). I'm hoping the real magic happens when somone smart goes in and remaps the ECU. I'll post the numbers when I get them.
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60hp is pretty good for a 650. There is a small YouTube channel where a guy has just done the 865 and I think he only gets low 60s. Of course the 865 kit is really about torque. You'd need more revs, bigger throttle bodies, etc.. to get a lot more power. Heaps of torque is the go for the road anyway.
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I think the YouTuber you're talking about got 58hp but you're point about torque is well taken.
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Not today, but yesterday I finished my change of my Conti’s clip-ons to Himalayan handlebars.
All cables and controls fit, no need to change anything. What I’m still missing is something as bar-ends. The Conti ones don’t fit. Not sure if I’m going to buy Himalayan bar ends or hand guards. Still need to make up my mind.
First long ride today and I must say it works exceptionally well. Much better control. Still a more or less sporty riding position because the Himalayan handlebars are pretty low as compared to the Interceptor ones. So footpeg position is pretty perfect.
I can tell you that my riding has improved because my confidence in the bike has improved.
One downside I need to fix, though. Now, with the wider handlebars the bike shakes when going over 130km/h on the motorway. This is a common thing on the Interceptor so my question is if someone who experienced this before was able to fix this and if so, how.
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Do you have some pics of the GT with the Himalayan bars?
(just asking, Toontje sounds Dutch, but you're in Spain?)
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Not today, but yesterday I finished my change of my Conti’s clip-ons to Himalayan handlebars.
All cables and controls fit, no need to change anything. What I’m still missing is something as bar-ends. The Conti ones don’t fit. Not sure if I’m going to buy Himalayan bar ends or hand guards. Still need to make up my mind.
First long ride today and I must say it works exceptionally well. Much better control. Still a more or less sporty riding position because the Himalayan handlebars are pretty low as compared to the Interceptor ones. So footpeg position is pretty perfect.
I can tell you that my riding has improved because my confidence in the bike has improved.
One downside I need to fix, though. Now, with the wider handlebars the bike shakes when going over 130km/h on the motorway. This is a common thing on the Interceptor so my question is if someone who experienced this before was able to fix this and if so, how.
Short of mismatching wind resistance from left to right, I’m at a loss to come up with a mechanism that would cause wobble by changing handlebars?
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I did some clothes shopping.
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60hp is pretty good for a 650. There is a small YouTube channel where a guy has just done the 865 and I think he only gets low 60s. Of course the 865 kit is really about torque. You'd need more revs, bigger throttle bodies, etc.. to get a lot more power. Heaps of torque is the go for the road anyway.
after riding around on an sv650 which i think has around 75hp, i would LOVE my gt650 to at least have 60hp. every time i go back to gt650 after riding another bike, it just feels so crazy slow/heavy/sluggish. i'm not a speed demon AT ALL and prefer just simple, scenic routes but i still think this bike is underpowered for how heavy it weighs.
the other big thing is how bad the brakes are on the gt650. i just swapped the pads to the EBC sintered ones (exact same ones on my ducati which has phenomenal stopping power *in comparison*) and i still dont find the gt650 brakes to be all that improved. might try a bleed/flush to see if that makes any more difference.
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after riding around on an sv650 which i think has around 75hp, i would LOVE my gt650 to at least have 60hp. every time i go back to gt650 after riding another bike, it just feels so crazy slow/heavy/sluggish. i'm not a speed demon AT ALL and prefer just simple, scenic routes but i still think this bike is underpowered for how heavy it weighs.
the other big thing is how bad the brakes are on the gt650. i just swapped the pads to the EBC sintered ones (exact same ones on my ducati which has phenomenal stopping power *in comparison*) and i still dont find the gt650 brakes to be all that improved. might try a bleed/flush to see if that makes any more difference.
I think you know that I have a SV650. Love it and will likely never bother to sell it. They have about 65hp. I noticed a comparison article in Cycle World:
"In an earlier comparison with the Kawasaki Z650 and Yamaha FZ-07, Cycle World commented, “The SV650′s mellowed yet relatable charm is more apparent on the road. It’s not the lightest-handling bike in the group, but it’s the most stable, predictable, and planted on a twisting canyon road and feels totally refined.”
_ I'm willing to say that my RE 650 (with Andreani cartridge and slightly larger tires) is even more "stable, predictable, and planted on a twisting canyon road" than my SV. My SV also has upgraded suspension.
_ As for the brakes, yeah. I agree but I haven't felt compelled to upgrade them yet (I do have Brembo "trackday pads). I just squeeze harder.
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after riding around on an sv650 which i think has around 75hp, i would LOVE my gt650 to at least have 60hp. every time i go back to gt650 after riding another bike, it just feels so crazy slow/heavy/sluggish. i'm not a speed demon AT ALL and prefer just simple, scenic routes but i still think this bike is underpowered for how heavy it weighs.
the other big thing is how bad the brakes are on the gt650. i just swapped the pads to the EBC sintered ones (exact same ones on my ducati which has phenomenal stopping power *in comparison*) and i still dont find the gt650 brakes to be all that improved. might try a bleed/flush to see if that makes any more difference.
I kinda think the stock Bybre calipers aren't terribly stiff, so they flex more than better ones. I've also found claims that the front master cylinder is a cause of mushiness and needs to be replaced with a higher-end one to improve the brakes. I have a hard time picturing how any properly bled cylinder that isn't leaking could cause mushiness, so I take that with a grain of salt.
That said, like a lot of the rest of the bike, the brakes work well enough. They aren't unsafe, and have more than enough stopping power to take advantage of all the traction available, so upgrades aren't going to give an improvement there. Feel and precise modulation is a different story...
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Short of mismatching wind resistance from left to right, I’m at a loss to come up with a mechanism that would cause wobble by changing handlebars?
Changed riding position, changed weight distribution, possible wrong torque of the headstock bearing bolt?
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Do you have some pics of the GT with the Himalayan bars?
(just asking, Toontje sounds Dutch, but you're in Spain?)
Two times correct.
(http://)
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snip ...
One downside I need to fix, though. Now, with the wider handlebars the bike shakes when going over 130km/h on the motorway. This is a common thing on the Interceptor so my question is if someone who experienced this before was able to fix this and if so, how.
I just noticed in the photo that you have some scope to lower the fork tubes through the triple trees. This will effectively increase the rake and will likely reduce / eliminate that "shake" you asked about at motorway speeds. A lot of riders use them nearly flush. Easy to do and might please you.
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=78155;image)
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I think this handlebar suits very well the GT.
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Installation of Stratos Performance Headers with TEC Bikes Exaust. @Phil, I’m sorry, but the Portuguese customs fees kills all options for the Verex Exhaust because the exhaust it will be something like 1300€… :-[
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Fitted a lithium battery,fitted tech bike parts lowered footpegs, checked and greased ready for the MOT next week whilst regressing the relays
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Installation of Stratos Performance Headers with TEC Bikes Exaust. @Phil, I’m sorry, but the Portuguese customs fees kills all options for the Verex Exhaust because the exhaust it will be something like 1300€… :-[
Hi FastFreddie
I'm about to get some Headers for our bike, can you tell us all what you think to the Stratos Headers.
Regards
Greg
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Installed Trip Machine grip tape. A little added comfort.
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Installed Trip Machine grip tape. A little added comfort.
Too expensive, imo. Take one for bicycles, costs only half or a third. Available in leather and all colours.
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Too expensive, imo. Take one for bicycles, costs only half or a third. Available in leather and all colours.
Understood, but it's a quality product and well-designed with the glue involved.
To say, I'm pretty impressed with the company as well. Seems they really care about their products and customers.
Sure, you'll pay extra. For me, sometimes it's worth it.
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I've got black trip machine wraps on my bike and for the price I honestly couldn't be happier, alot more comfortable and look better in my opinion amd matches my headlight cross (which I know isn't everyone's cup of tea), have been on there for 2 years and I just treat then once a year along with my leathers and they have held up well. I also have the panniers and the tank phone holder from trip machine and again for the price they feel sturdy without being faffy if that makes sense, like something I could potentially repair with a sail needle type of thing
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Hi FastFreddie
I'm about to get some Headers for our bike, can you tell us all what you think to the Stratos Headers.
Regards
Greg
Greg, this afternoon I made 250kms on country side roads, and I liked very much the torque at low revs, since 2000rpm until 4500rpm the engine looks more linear and more “free”. On the other way, they look very well made.
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Installation of Stratos Performance Headers with TEC Bikes Exaust. @Phil, I’m sorry, but the Portuguese customs fees kills all options for the Verex Exhaust because the exhaust it will be something like 1300€… :-[
The head mounting style on these headers look like my preferred system. Any close up images of the weld quality and the fit?
Phil
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I've got black trip machine wraps on my bike and for the price I honestly couldn't be happier, alot more comfortable and look better in my opinion amd matches my headlight cross (which I know isn't everyone's cup of tea), have been on there for 2 years and I just treat then once a year along with my leathers and they have held up well. I also have the panniers and the tank phone holder from trip machine and again for the price they feel sturdy without being faffy if that makes sense, like something I could potentially repair with a sail needle type of thing
Agree. They were like $35. The material is somewhat thick. Feels very comfortable.
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Greg, this afternoon I made 250kms on country side roads, and I liked very much the torque at low revs, since 2000rpm until 4500rpm the engine looks more linear and more “free”. On the other way, they look very well made.
FastFreddie, thanks for the feed back.
Greg
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Rode mine home.
Found a 2020 Continental GT for a good price last week, and didn't want to miss out.
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Rode mine home.
Found a 2020 Continental GT for a good price last week, and didn't want to miss out.
Nice find - that looks mint! Congratulations!
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The head mounting style on these headers look like my preferred system. Any close up images of the weld quality and the fit?
Phil
Hi Phil,
Here you can see the weld quality. About the fitting, they fit perfectly.
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Hi Phil,
Here you can see the weld quality. About the fitting, they fit perfectly.
Thanks. Yep the welds look decent, certainly not the bird shit welds of some systems.
Phil
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Any changes made to the bike when fitting straight through headers? I have the after market air filter and straight through exhausts. If I put headers on, would I need a timer or anything?
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Any changes made to the bike when fitting straight through headers? I have the after market air filter and straight through exhausts. If I put headers on, would I need a timer or anything?
Hey Pete, header manufacturers will say their product is plug and play, but many of us have sought to maximise mods with a tune, either a piggy back ECU (Powertronic or Power Commander) or a custom ECU hack... A riding mate's bike runs fine with your mods plus the S&S cam with no tune, but my tuned bike smokes his 😎
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I'm of the same mind as fireypete. Straight through headers and a performace air filter will improve the horsepower and torque but they're not quite plug & play and you can't fully exploit them without some kind of remapping. The best bang-for-the-buck is a premapped PCV or the like but you can't beat a dynotune and complete ECU flash. The guy that worked on my bike (and NJMike's) presently charges $1200. That's a lot of money to spend if you're not also adding high compression pistons or an 865 kit. If you can find a premapped piggyback unit that matches your set up buy it. Otherwise the bike will run better than stock just not optimally so.
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I'm of the same mind as fireypete. Straight through headers and a performace air filter will improve the horsepower and torque but they're not quite plug & play and you can't fully exploit them without some kind of remapping. The best bang-for-the-buck is a premapped PCV or the like but you can't beat a dynotune and complete ECU flash. The guy that worked on my bike (and NJMike's) presently charges $1200. That's a lot of money to spend if you're not also adding high compression pistons or an 865 kit. If you can find a premapped piggyback unit that matches your set up buy it. Otherwise the bike will run better than stock just not optimally so.
It seemed to me that fireypete had a mind that was pending: I suspect you've unpended it 😉
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All ready to go for this Spring / Summer :)
Recently added the YSS fork upgrade kit (including drilling the dampers). I also stripped and polished the forks (and brace) while I was at it.
Finally I added the North American spec (EU marked) turn indicators because I personally think they suit the style of the bike better.
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All ready to go for this Spring / Summer :)
Recently added the YSS fork upgrade kit (including drilling the dampers). I also stripped and the polished forks and brace while I was at it.
Finally I added the North American spec (EU marked) turn indicators because I personally think they suit the style of the bike better.
One of the classiest Interceptors I've yet to see. The polished forks look great.
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Agree! Thats one nice bike!
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One of the classiest Interceptors I've yet to see. The polished forks look great.
Agree! Thats one nice bike!
Thanks chaps :)
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Oh yes, just enough modifications to make it prettier than the original. And I know what I'm saying ;)
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f35/19/49/60/09/th/img_2036.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/19496009/45)
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All ready to go for this Spring / Summer :)
Recently added the YSS fork upgrade kit (including drilling the dampers). I also stripped and polished the forks (and brace) while I was at it.
Finally I added the North American spec (EU marked) turn indicators because I personally think they suit the style of the bike better.
Super nice. Gonna be a bit tricky keeping the fork lowers and brace shiny? Got many km on her?
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All ready to go for this Spring / Summer :)
Recently added the YSS fork upgrade kit (including drilling the dampers). I also stripped and polished the forks (and brace) while I was at it.
Finally I added the North American spec (EU marked) turn indicators because I personally think they suit the style of the bike better.
Really nice bike. Love the attention to detail.
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Oh yes, just enough modifications to make it prettier than the original. And I know what I'm saying ;)
Thanks Voun :)
Super nice. Gonna be a bit tricky keeping the fork lowers and brace shiny? Got many km on her?
Thanks Hoiho, keeping the polished bit shiny should be OK, I tend to give the bike a bit of a going over when I'm back from a ride (once it's cooled down).
km/miles wise, not a lot, only about 3600km/2250 miles since new. It's not my daily mode of transport so gets use when the weather is favourable here in the UK.
Really nice bike. Love the attention to detail.
Thanks Jess :)
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I've always loved Greytop's Interceptor, which only seems to get better everytime he posts a picture. I even tried to replicate his paint job till I found out how hard it is to find a reliable painter and how much they demand for their services. My bike has been knocked over twice even though I park it inside. I wouldn't be able to relax if it were painted that nicely, knowing some idiot in a car would sooner or later knock it over and ruin the finish. It's cheaper--and easier on the nerves--to order a tank from India in whatever color strikes my fancy. This year it's Glitter & Dust.
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I've always loved Greytop's Interceptor, which only seems to get better everytime he posts a picture. I even tried to replicate his paint job till I found out how hard it is to find a reliable painter and how much they demand for their services. My bike has been knocked over twice even though I park it inside. I wouldn't be able to relax if it were painted that nicely, knowing some idiot in a car would sooner or later knock it over and ruin the finish. It's cheaper--and easier on the nerves--to order a tank from India in whatever color strikes my fancy. This year it's Glitter & Dust.
Thanks Blazes. Sorry to hear about the incidents you've had with your Interceptor. I totally understand where your coming from with regard to the reluctancy to get an expensive paint job done with that happening more than once.
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All ready to go for this Spring / Summer :)
Recently added the YSS fork upgrade kit (including drilling the dampers). I also stripped and polished the forks (and brace) while I was at it.
Finally I added the North American spec (EU marked) turn indicators because I personally think they suit the style of the bike better.
That's a beautiful bike.
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Today I installed a FuelX Lite. Took about an hour, bike idled really rough at first, but smoothed out after a few minutes and while I don't have any numbers, the bike certainly feels like it's picked up some power.
Money well spent, as far as I'm concerned.
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Stuck on some larger bar end mirrors. Really glad I read a meme about pizza sizes a few years ago that stuck with me because the difference between 3.2" and 3.8" is SUBSTANTIAL.
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Stuck on some larger bar end mirrors. Really glad I read a meme about pizza sizes a few years ago that stuck with me because the difference between 3.2" and 3.8" is SUBSTANTIAL.
I love the look of my bar end mirrors and they work better than the original mickey mouse mirrors. But… there is a significant blind spot with cars just behind my shoulders.
I would love something a little bigger, or maybe a little convex.
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I would love something a little bigger, or maybe a little convex.
If you look for EC stamped (=EU approved), they are both - 10 cm diameter and convex
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Stuck on some larger bar end mirrors. Really glad I read a meme about pizza sizes a few years ago that stuck with me because the difference between 3.2" and 3.8" is SUBSTANTIAL.
I prefer folding bar-end mirrors - great view, good for walking around and making the bike narrow. Wish they were slightly larger however.
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Bought a companion for my 650 GT
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Bought a companion for my 650 GT
Very nice :)
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What did I do to my bike today? I put it on sale! 😀
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Bought a companion for my 650 GT
Very classy!!
By the way, where'd you get the fairing for the GT?
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Interceptor 650,K&N Air filter, bespoke retainer/cover delete and S&S slip on slip-ons.
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Swapped out black gauge faces for white face MPH gauge faces. :D :D
Couple weeks ago installed a bracket to tilt the gauges. Now everything can be easily seen without having to move my head down to see them.
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Swapped out black gauge faces for white face MPH gauge faces. :D :D
Couple weeks ago installed a bracket to tilt the gauges. Now everything can be easily seen without having to move my head down to see them.
Sexy gauges!
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I have been off a motorcycle for a few years. Today I adjusted the Nut that holds onto the handlebars.
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Swapped out black gauge faces for white face MPH gauge faces. :D :D
Couple weeks ago installed a bracket to tilt the gauges. Now everything can be easily seen without having to move my head down to see them.
Your bracket is pretty damn clever!
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Your bracket is pretty damn clever!
tinkergramp graciously provided the pattern. I only made some very minor mods to the final product.
Without you and him, I would still be cussing the stock location and gauge faces. :D
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Sold it....
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Sold it....
🙁
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Finally got my Interceptor up and running. Working on tuning it ...
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Finally got my Interceptor up and running. Working on tuning it ...
Kitted?
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I ported the head, installed S&S high comp pistons, S&S cam, performance valve springs, bored the throttle body, made a air cleaner, no base gasket. Currently tuning the ecu with Tuner Pro. So far so good.
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Small but challenging change.
For those of you who hate all my gauges, stop now, move on.
I have two small very nice gauges from Formotion, a clock & thermometer.
Previously they were mounted high and wide, above the triple clamp top, kind of left & right of Speedo & Tach.
After much time bending brackets, testing position, bending some more, they are now mounted lower on either side of the key switch.
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Now you have room for two more little gauges I see ;)
I've been thinking about a small clock also, but I do like the simple cockpit as it is and not knowing the time isn't a bad thing either.
So the only thing added will be a Beeline. The mount above the gauges looks good, maybe I'll have one made.
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Installed the bar relocators from Hitchcocks so now I can sit back in the wide part of the Corbin without leaning forward too much. With these changes and also suspension at both ends, I think I have finally turned this into the long-ride-capable bike I was wanting it to be. Honestly the rear shocks are the weak link at this point - at some point I will try different springs.
Definitely moving more in the touring direction with my mods. At my age and current mindset I am more about tootling about the countryside than trying to strafe the corners.
I have yet to get a passenger's feedback on the seat.
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🙁
Yeah, I’m going to miss the community. Online as well as in real life. If RE has something down real well it’s the brand awareness and identification for its owners. I probably won’t get that from Honda.
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Oil change and a little clean-up. Still quite a bit of maintenance to do.
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C-Racer fairing painted to match along with fork brace, front and rear fenders.
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C-Racer fairing painted to match along with fork brace, front and rear fenders.
Looks great! That fairing really matches the GT perfectly.
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Looks great! That fairing really matches the GT perfectly.
So far I find the turbulence comfortable. The windshield projected wind to my helmet buffeting it around quite a lot. This seems to send it to my chest where it helps support body weight. 'Course, I have yet to travel on a ranch road or farm to market or even freeway or toll road so can't attest to extended 70+ MPH turbulence.
Thanks for exploring and sharing the C-Racer route for those of us so inclined to follow.
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So far I find the turbulence comfortable. The windshield projected wind to my helmet buffeting it around quite a lot. This seems to send it to my chest where it helps support body weight. 'Course, I have yet to travel on a ranch road or farm to market or even freeway or toll road so can't attest to extended 70+ MPH turbulence.
Thanks for exploring and sharing the C-Racer route for those of us so inclined to follow.
I routinely do 80-85mph on the freeway home from work and there is no buffeting. The C-Racer blocks wind to my chest and leaves my helmet in virgin air.
Nothing short of an enclosed vehicle with stop cross wind but this fairing does a great job with front wind.
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I added an inch of neoprene antifatigue mat to the top of my stock seat foam and stapled the cover back on. It's ugly, tall and less soft. I'm hoping it'll reduce hip pain.
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This morning I installed Hitchcock's slash cut silencers. They're half the weight of the stock silencers, and slim up the rear of the bike. They sound pretty good, too!
Can't wait to go for a proper ride.
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Finished polishing the valve intake covers to a mirror finish. Sanding by hand, polishing with cotton wheels. Redid it twice. Learnt a lot about stainless and that all brands of polishing compounds are not made alike. My arms are kaputt from the neck and down: joints, ligaments, muscles. I will never sand stainless by hand ever again. But since I have now done it, I will henceforth look down on the lot of you that have not. You are weak, with questionable morals and no stamina. Or maybe you have better things to do. I don't know on earth what that would be, but I am willing to give you the benefit of the doubt because that's what Brian Boitano would do.
Sore,
Kranis
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Finished polishing the valve intake covers to a mirror finish. Sanding by hand, polishing with cotton wheels. Redid it twice. Learnt a lot about stainless and that all brands of polishing compounds are not made alike. My arms are kaputt from the neck and down: joints, ligaments, muscles. I will never sand stainless by hand ever again. But since I have now done it, I will henceforth look down on the lot of you that have not. You are weak, with questionable morals and no stamina. Or maybe you have better things to do. I don't know on earth what that would be, but I am willing to give you the benefit of the doubt because that's what Brian Boitano would do.
Sore,
Kranis
Where's the Stainless on a valve cover?
Phil
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Where's the Stainless on a valve cover?
Phil
No, only the stainless intake covers were involved. The word ”valve” has no business being in that sentence.
Cheers,
/jd
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No, only the stainless intake covers were involved. The word ”valve” has no business being in that sentence.
Cheers,
/jd
Oh Ok you had me confused. Personally I'd prefer them black which reminds me I should have painted them Matt black when I did the triple clamps for my Guzzi a few months ago, damn.
Phil
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Yesterday I took my bike on his first ride. Seventeen miles of hilly and curvy back country roads in a perfect May afternoon filled with sunshine and blue skies.
A long trip for a neophyte biker, but just enough to be controlled and confident. Will build from here.
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Yesterday I took my bike on his first ride. Seventeen miles of hilly and curvy back country roads in a perfect May afternoon filled with sunshine and blue skies.
A long trip for a neophyte biker, but just enough to be controlled and confident. Will build from here.
Sounds absolutely lovely! During rides like that, I get happy attacks!
Best,
Kranis
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Finished polishing the valve intake covers to a mirror finish. Sanding by hand, polishing with cotton wheels. Redid it twice. Learnt a lot about stainless and that all brands of polishing compounds are not made alike. My arms are kaputt from the neck and down: joints, ligaments, muscles. I will never sand stainless by hand ever again. But since I have now done it, I will henceforth look down on the lot of you that have not. You are weak, with questionable morals and no stamina. Or maybe you have better things to do. I don't know on earth what that would be, but I am willing to give you the benefit of the doubt because that's what Brian Boitano would do.
Sore,
Kranis
This is f-ing hilarious.
Anyway I feel like a photograph is warranted. Of the intake covers, not your injuries.
(I had to look up the What Would Brian Boitano Do reference. It turns out I saw that ridiculous South Park movie, but apparently have blocked out most of it over the years.)
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MK Designs Fairing Kit and TEC sump guard.
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I raised the front fender an inch with blue loctite, stock washers, with nylon spacers and stainless bolts from www.boltdepot.com for about $10. It looks a little high with the stock Pirellis but when I spoon on the Shinko 244s it'll be fine. I'm considering the addition of some shrink tubing to darken the spacers.
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I raised the front fender an inch with blue loctite, stock washers, with nylon spacers and stainless bolts from www.boltdepot.com for about $10. It looks a little high with the stock Pirellis but when I spoon on the Shinko 244s it'll be fine. I'm considering the addition of some shrink tubing to darken the spacers.
`
So does the high point of the brace clear the bottom of the lower triple clamp on full bump. It would be getting mighty close by my calculations. Just sayin.
Phil
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Could be, 120mm full travel isn't much. I'll be modding for more travel if I ever take the forks apart.
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`
So does the high point of the brace clear the bottom of the lower triple clamp on full bump. It would be getting mighty close by my calculations. Just sayin.
Phil
The nylons will work like additional damping elements. OK, single usage only...
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I raised the front fender an inch with blue loctite, stock washers, with nylon spacers and stainless bolts from www.boltdepot.com for about $10. It looks a little high with the stock Pirellis but when I spoon on the Shinko 244s it'll be fine. I'm considering the addition of some shrink tubing to darken the spacers.
No critique here, but trying to understand. What is the point of this?
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Fender clearance with a 4.10-18 Shinko 244 mainly.
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This is f-ing hilarious.
Anyway I feel like a photograph is warranted. Of the intake covers, not your injuries.
(I had to look up the What Would Brian Boitano Do reference. It turns out I saw that ridiculous South Park movie, but apparently have blocked out most of it over the years.)
Sorry to remind you. I'm a Trey Parker & Matt Stone fan although they should be taken in moderation because often the themes are pretty dark. Well, to top this off I choked on my promise never to sand stainless by hand again and went and sanded the heel guard while wife was plonked in the sofa in front of some Danish drama series that I did not want to see. And now my back hurts from being hunched over my makeshift workbench for an hour or two. Also, I seem to be missing some skin on my hands.
I will install tomorrow and take some pictures of my still bog standard orange bike. Next week there are going to be some changes though because somebody finally bought some proper shrouded shocks to replace those that came with the bike and which I believe have a page or two dedicated to them in The Boy's Own Book of Aesthetical Horrors. Also, I got a seat with white piping on sale from Hitchcock. And an original Interceptor seat cover on a whim. And some other stuff I can't remember. From another vendor I got what is probably the most expensive chain guard you can currently buy for this bike. However, that doesn't say much - it's a chain guard for an Interceptor. But that will be then.
Best,
Kranis
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Sorry to remind you. I'm a Trey Parker & Matt Stone fan although they should be taken in moderation because often the themes are pretty dark. Well, to top this off I choked on my promise never to sand stainless by hand again and went and sanded the heel guard while wife was plonked in the sofa in front of some Danish drama series that I did not want to see. And now my back hurts from being hunched over my makeshift workbench for an hour or two. Also, I seem to be missing some skin on my hands.
I will install tomorrow and take some pictures of my still bog standard orange bike. Next week there are going to be some changes though because somebody finally bought some proper shrouded shocks to replace those that came with the bike and which I believe have a page or two dedicated to them in The Boy's Own Book of Aesthetical Horrors. Also, I got a seat with white piping on sale from Hitchcock. And an original Interceptor seat cover on a whim. And some other stuff I can't remember. From another vendor I got what is probably the most expensive chain guard you can currently buy for this bike. However, that doesn't say much - it's a chain guard for an Interceptor. But that will be then.
Best,
Kranis
My wife and I are big fans of Danish dramas. You should give them a go.
Phil
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I'm looking forward to seeing what the sanded and polished injector covers and heel guard looks like. Thinking it might be a good compliment to the polished engine components. But, you make it sound like harrowing work, so I might not give it a try unless it looks so cool that it could change the physical properties of things.
Speaking of Matt Stone and Trey Parker, I was passing through Coos Bay, Oregon a few weeks ago on a vacation ride, and some of the shops had posters in the windows - the local community theater group was performing a live rendition of "Cannibal, the Musical." I had places to be, but was really tempted to stick around to watch it...
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A simple oil and filter change along with chain lube. This is what it looks like when you are not organized, when you procrastinate and you routine oil change bucket it too full to use again, when your oil fill funnel is haphazardly supported with random, purple paracord and slips while full. At least it got done, the oil got wiped up and off, and tomorrow I can wash everything off in preparation for DGR 2023.
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Swore and got frustrated with the darn engine management light staying on for no apparent reason and not being able to find a way to reset it.🤨
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Patted and swore eternal allegiance to my Interceptor as I hobbled (torn calf muscle) to the garage fridge. I can't ride as I have a partially functioning left arm post pneumonia vaccine. Jesus it hurt last night, had to "sleep" propped up in a "comfy" chair.
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Patted and swore eternal allegiance to my Interceptor as I hobbled (torn calf muscle) to the garage fridge. I can't ride as I have a partially functioning left arm post pneumonia vaccine. Jesus it hurt last night, had to "sleep" propped up in a "comfy" chair.
Sorry, but I was laughing my ass off reading your post. Mainly because I went through the exact same thing last year. "partially functioning left arm" LOL
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Patted and swore eternal allegiance to my Interceptor as I hobbled (torn calf muscle) to the garage fridge. I can't ride as I have a partially functioning left arm post pneumonia vaccine. Jesus it hurt last night, had to "sleep" propped up in a "comfy" chair.
OWCH! I feel your pain. Literally.
The Costco pharmacist gave me the flu shot and a tetanus booster at the same time in the same arm.
Didn't think that was a big deal until I came home and mentioned it to my wife, who's a nurse practitioner.
She said that was a really bad thing to do. A few hours later, my arm felt like eight bitches on a bitch boat.
Couldn't ride for two days.
But anyway, what did I do with my bike today? Played Eeny Meeny Miny Mo and decided that the Interceptor would be my bike of choice for the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride on Sunday, so I got her all clean and shiny.
Then noticed that my car has a flat, so I guess one of the bikes that lost the honor will be taking me to work tomorrow. Can't get the DGR bike dirty now, can I?
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Relocated my front turn signals.
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Relocated my front turn signals.
Can't wait to see the boomers reaction to this one.
I've got the same signals, though not mounted the same. These fuckers are BRIGHT.
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Relocated my front turn signals.
Interesting to see how design changes over the years, even indicators follow fashion. In the 70ies indicators where almost as big as the headlight, today they should be invisible. Or is it just LED technology, that allows such small lights and drives design into that direction?
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Can't wait to see the boomers reaction to this one..
Youngsters have no style, they ride bikes looking like insects.
Just another stereotype.
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Interesting to see how design changes over the years, even indicators follow fashion. In the 70ies indicators where almost as big as the headlight, today they should be invisible. Or is it just LED technology, that allows such small lights and drives design into that direction?
Well the problem is that I suspect this particular fashion is actually illegal. There is a minimum distance between the centrelines of indicators. People may not care and get away with it for years but I've also seen people pulled over for a routing breath test along with dozens of other riders/driver and if they are too obviously not the legal requirement the nice officer congratulates you on passing the breath test and politely asks you to just pull up over there while my colleague does a thorough check of the compliance of your bike/car. Cost one guy in the office $3000 worth of mechanical work reverting his ute back to a stock Cam. It sounded lovely that 6 litre V8 with it's lumpy idle and free flowing exhaust but the cop didn't quite appreciate the cam and pipes so it was defected off the road.
Phil
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I gavee the engine cases a.polish, rocker cover and heel guards. Only because it seems what the older bikes had in the 60s...I think! It's all easy to do. Stew filingham has a vid on engine cases. I tried a lot of easier ways, and ended up doing it his way and it came up ok for a rank amatuer like me. Heel guards, just different levels of wet sand paper. Bit of metal polish to finish
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Can't wait to see the boomers reaction to this one.
I've got the same signals, though not mounted the same. These fuckers are BRIGHT.
Yes they are. Tiny and bright. Really cleans up the look of the bike.
Are they legal? Well, I didn't check the regulated requirements for signal spacing, but they're moved in approximately an inch more per side than where I had them originally. Actually easier to see because originally the headlight blocked the view from the opposite side. If I get any crap for them from ELOs, moving them is easy.
This also brings into question of the integrated turn signals in the headlight. Are external signals required when using one? I don't know, I'm asking. But I doubt many that make that purchase wants both.
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Yes they are. Tiny and bright. Really cleans up the look of the bike.
Are they legal? Well, I didn't check the regulated requirements for signal spacing, but they're moved in approximately an inch more per side than where I had them originally. Actually easier to see because originally the headlight blocked the view from the opposite side. If I get any crap for them from ELOs, moving them is easy.
This also brings into question of the integrated turn signals in the headlight. Are external signals required when using one? I don't know, I'm asking. But I doubt many that make that purchase wants both.
Size of indicators in the past is easy to explain, light bulbs.
Light bulbs in the 1970s did not put out as much light, so they needed bigger reflectors to be seen at distance.
Spacing requirements are needed to distinguish which side the indicator is on, no matter how bright.
The US has had, and still has for the most part, out dated lightning standards.
In the 1960s & 1970s our cars were only allowed two different standard headlights, both round only. You could have four round headlights, one small low beam & one high beam per side or two round headlights that were capable of low & high, one per side. Europeans (and probably elsewhere) had far superior headlights
Today we are struggling to get laws changed to allow adaptive headlights that the rest of the world has enjoyed for years.
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Made new brackets to hold my reserve fuel bottles.
1”x1” x1/4” 90° aluminum.
A little bench grinder work to round edges. Bolts to rear hoop mounts in frame. Bottle holder bolts to new bracket. They will most likely end up black but for now just raw aluminum.
I’m definitely not into the ‘short bobbed seat only’ look!
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Made new brackets to hold my reserve fuel bottles.
1”x1” x1/4” 90° aluminum.
A little bench grinder work to round edges. Bolts to rear hoop mounts in frame. Bottle holder bolts to new bracket. They will most likely end up black but for now just raw aluminum.
I’m definitely not into the ‘short bobbed seat only’ look!
Interesting....
Two questions:
What prompted this?
I feel that the range on the 650 is a little low.
What brand tail light is that?
Very cool.
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Yes they are. Tiny and bright. Really cleans up the look of the bike.
Are they legal? Well, I didn't check the regulated requirements for signal spacing, but they're moved in approximately an inch more per side than where I had them originally. Actually easier to see because originally the headlight blocked the view from the opposite side. If I get any crap for them from ELOs, moving them is easy.
This also brings into question of the integrated turn signals in the headlight. Are external signals required when using one? I don't know, I'm asking. But I doubt many that make that purchase wants both.
I looked into it before I installed mine and I couldn't find any actual numbers for distance from center line in Georgia. You just need to have functional signals.
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Made new brackets to hold my reserve fuel bottles.
1”x1” x1/4” 90° aluminum.
A little bench grinder work to round edges. Bolts to rear hoop mounts in frame. Bottle holder bolts to new bracket. They will most likely end up black but for now just raw aluminum.
I’m definitely not into the ‘short bobbed seat only’ look!
It's becoming increasingly obvious that Jess is low key building a fighter jet out of a Conti.
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Interesting....
Two questions:
What prompted this?
I feel that the range on the 650 is a little low.
What brand tail light is that?
Very cool.
1. Range anxiety. I will probably never need them but they make me feel better.
2. They are bespoke. I took two tail lights from Prism Supply and modified the stock taillight bracket to fit. Details here: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33611.msg418078#msg418078
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It's becoming increasingly obvious that Jess is low key building a fighter jet out of a Conti.
Yes, but its a beautiful jet!
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1. Range anxiety. I will probably never need them but they make me feel better.
2. They are bespoke. I took two tail lights from Prism Supply and modified the stock taillight bracket to fit. Details here: https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=33611.msg418078#msg418078
Very cool!! Thanks for the details.
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Interesting....
Two questions:
What prompted this?
I feel that the range on the 650 is a little low.
What brand tail light is that?
Very cool.
So you ask a question then answer it yourself, lol.
Phil
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So you ask a question then answer it yourself, lol.
Phil
I figured maybe something happened that caused this decision. You know, like running out of fuel in a tough spot. I've mounting extra fuel on my adventure bike, but that's an entirely different situation. I've never even came close to running out of fuel on the street.
Thanks for chiming in and critiquing. You're very helpful...lol.
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Yes, but its a beautiful jet!
That it is.
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Fixed the tail light wiring and cleaned/lubed the chain. I hope Hitchcocks sells a tail light harness because I found damage (likely a rodent) not caused by my big ass back tire that also needed to be repaired.
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I swapped out my stock plugs for CR8EIX NGK Iridium and fitted some second hand side covers.
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Adjusted chain tension for the first time since I bought the GT ;D
After about 1.900km's it needed just a little bit more.
Back home after the ride:
(https://i.postimg.cc/R0Rfx4t9/IMG-20230521-154514692-2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/yJDWFqnr)
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Aluminum side covers from Omega Racer.
Got an extra set of metal triangles that attach to the covers and sent them to the chrome plater.
They said 4 months at the earliest :(
It just took me 4 months to get the side covers :(
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Headlight guard and new tail light system.
Signals integrated in the brake light and brake light integrated into the signals.
I always feel vulnerable with traffic behind me and think the strobe flashers are annoying.
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Aluminum side covers from Omega Racer.
Got an extra set of metal triangles that attach to the covers and sent them to the chrome plater.
They said 4 months at the earliest :(
It just took me 4 months to get the side covers :(
Would love to have them, but they cost a fortune - how much including toll and freight?
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Interesting....
Two questions:
What prompted this?
I feel that the range on the 650 is a little low.
What brand tail light is that?
Very cool.
its even lower with the GT650 as its tank is smaller than the interceptor.
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...how much including toll and freight?
I think it was $350 to my door & another $50 for stickers.
My bike is stock except for tank pads & the right mirror so I haven't really spent much on it.
The side cover price made me think about it for awhile.
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I think it was $350 to my door & another $50 for stickers.
My bike is stock except for tank pads & the right mirror so I haven't really spent much on it.
The side cover price made me think about it for awhile.
So when do the aluminum fenders go on it?
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Made new brackets to hold my reserve fuel bottles.
1”x1” x1/4” 90° aluminum.
A little bench grinder work to round edges. Bolts to rear hoop mounts in frame. Bottle holder bolts to new bracket. They will most likely end up black but for now just raw aluminum.
I’m definitely not into the ‘short bobbed seat only’ look!
this makes me a little nervous lol. i dont think i'd want bottled fuel sloshing around that close to the hot pipes. and if they start leaking? eeeek. personally i would at least put them in a bag or something.
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this makes me a little nervous lol. i dont think i'd want bottled fuel sloshing around that close to the hot pipes. and if they start leaking? eeeek. personally i would at least put them in a bag or something.
A think no bag would help. But it should be no problem. When you fill up your gas tank at a station, there's always a chance that some fuel drops on your pipes or engine .
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this makes me a little nervous lol. i dont think i'd want bottled fuel sloshing around that close to the hot pipes. and if they start leaking? eeeek. personally i would at least put them in a bag or something.
Not really hot enough to worry about it. The fuel would just evaporate quickly. Even if you spilled fuel on the front of the exhaust manifold, where it's hottest, it probably wouldn't ignite.
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this makes me a little nervous lol. i dont think i'd want bottled fuel sloshing around that close to the hot pipes. and if they start leaking? eeeek. personally i would at least put them in a bag or something.
These are the same kind of bottles I’ve backpacked with for years. They don’t leak.
If you aren’t a backpacker, they are used to store fuel for small camp stoves. The ones I use for camping are smaller for less weight and you don’t need much fuel to boil water.
Also they are parallel to the rear frame, well above the pipes.
https://primus.us/collections/fuel
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Distance from exhaust
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So when do the aluminum fenders go on it?
If I can get ones the same size, I would go for it.
Occasionally I get caught in the rain and appreciate the length of the standard guards (with the rear extension removed)
For some reason, I think the grab rail needs to be chromed.
That might be my next thing except I use it every time I ride.
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I made a tool for the damper tubes
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These are the same kind of bottles I’ve backpacked with for years. They don’t leak.
If you aren’t a backpacker, they are used to store fuel for small camp stoves. The ones I use for camping are smaller for less weight and you don’t need much fuel to boil water.
Also they are parallel to the rear frame, well above the pipes.
https://primus.us/collections/fuel
I've use the same bottles on a 500 adventure ride through the mountains. Lots of bouncing and jarring. Never leaked to drop.
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Yes Primus are awesome....... oh wait
https://youtu.be/aYDfwUJzYQg
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Yes Primus are awesome....... oh wait
https://youtu.be/aYDfwUJzYQg
It’s amazing that they have time to make fuel bottles between music gigs…
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I made a tool for the damper tubes
That looks excellent ! I'm guessing not your first rodeo.
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That looks excellent ! I'm guessing not your first rodeo.
;D ;D ;D In this one, I had a little help from another cowboy with his milling machine. By the way, I already drilled the holes. One 8mm hole on each dumper. Let’s see how it works, or if I have to spend some euros in something like Matris Cartridges and left the YSS fork kit ::)
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I fitted some handmade leather bags to my Interceptor that I bought in March from ebayer Handishiva
Check this out for $46
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Well not today but last week. Changed oil and filter with OEM filter and Lucas 10w-50 synthetic. I'm pleased so far. Engine runs quietly. My first (300 mile) oil change I used Maxima Pro Plus and wasn't happy with valve train noise after the engine was warm. Used Motul 7100 for two changes but wanted to try something different. Oil changed every 12-14 months.
Had starting issues the past year. Multiple starter button engagement necessary for starter activation. Last year I dressed the starter button contacts and it helped but had the issue reoccur this year. Swapped out the starter and accessory relays and that fixed the issue. Finally decided to simply upgrade the relays and clean the goop out of the relay blocks. No more issues...so far. Purchased the relays from Hitchcock's.
I'm disappointed with the longevity of the Perelli Sport Comp tires. I'm a conservative rider and always check tire pressure before each day's ride. At 5800 miles the rear tire is nearly worn to the indicator. Low miles due to having other bikes.
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A few days ago, following advice on this forum... Gizzo, I think... added the ultimate touring accessory, a lovely soft sheepskin.
Super comfy, and it's a keeper!
Here it is on the road into Vila Real in beautiful Portugal today... just ahead of the thunder storm.
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Mr. Clean was standing since last November in a cold, windy alpine shed. Temperature was everything between -20 and 20c. Tank was filled (E10, who cares), tires where up, the battery was out. That was all I did. Today I installed a cheap Li battery I bought 2 month ago to save some kilos. I turned ignition on, heard the typical startup sound, pressed the start button.....and ....Broar, Brmmm, Brmmmm....running as it was stopped yesterday. Good boy!
Maybe because I cleaned the relays before winter. 8)
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A few days ago, following advice on this forum... Gizzo, I think... added the ultimate touring accessory, a lovely soft sheepskin.
Super comfy, and it's a keeper!
Here it is on the road into Vila Real in beautiful Portugal today... just ahead of the thunder storm.
After a rainy day you will smell like the sheep before it was skinned.
Enjoy your journey!
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Changed the oil, gave the covers a polish and finished the front mud guard bracket project.
If you're thinking of stripping the paint off of this thing and revealing the aluminum, a word of caution. It's not as simple as I'd expected. I figured I'd hit it with some paint stripper, polish and reinstall. Nope. Once the paint is removed, it reveals some sort of black anodized finish. It isn't affected by stripper or much anything besides sandpaper. So I sanded for an entire night and then carefully brushed the finish. I think it turned out quite well, but it's one of those things that no one will notice except me.
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Looks great. I did the same thing without the brushing. A lot of places offer the bracket in black but I don’t know of any that sell a polished version. It’s a lot of work but worth it. I tend to scrutinize other twins when I come across them so I would definitely notice.
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After a rainy day you will smell like the sheep before it was skinned.
Here's a tip: if it rains, take the sheepskin off and store it somewhere dry. Easy.
Not often a problem in Australia though...
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Changed the oil, gave the covers a polish and finished the front mud guard bracket project.
If you're thinking of stripping the paint off of this thing and revealing the aluminum, a word of caution. It's not as simple as I'd expected. I figured I'd hit it with some paint stripper, polish and reinstall. Nope. Once the paint is removed, it reveals some sort of black anodized finish. It isn't affected by stripper or much anything besides sandpaper. So I sanded for an entire night and then carefully brushed the finish. I think it turned out quite well, but it's one of those things that no one will notice except me.
Fantastic job on the fender brace, looks really nice.
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Fantastic job on the fender brace, looks really nice.
Thanks! My hands are still recovering.
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Changed the oil, gave the covers a polish and finished the front mud guard bracket project.
If you're thinking of stripping the paint off of this thing and revealing the aluminum, a word of caution. It's not as simple as I'd expected. I figured I'd hit it with some paint stripper, polish and reinstall. Nope. Once the paint is removed, it reveals some sort of black anodized finish. It isn't affected by stripper or much anything besides sandpaper. So I sanded for an entire night and then carefully brushed the finish. I think it turned out quite well, but it's one of those things that no one will notice except me.
I did mine a few yeas ago. You are right, whatever the hell they use for paint on these and other parts of the 650 is the toughest stuff I've ever encountered in my life and I've been involves in stripping aircraft 2K and car and bike paint for years. Mind you stripper these days isn't anywhere near what it used to be. I had to remove it mechanically with a Scotchbrite pad in my die grinder. That made fairly light work of it. Next time I'll go for the bead blaster now it's set up properly.
Phil
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Here's a tip: if it rains, take the sheepskin off and store it somewhere dry. Easy.
Not often a problem in Australia though...
Nor in southern Portugal and Spain. Ireland, perhaps... but then everywhere is only a few hours away.
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I did mine a few yeas ago. You are right, whatever the hell they use for paint on these and other parts of the 650 is the toughest stuff I've ever encountered in my life and I've been involves in stripping aircraft 2K and car and bike paint for years. Mind you stripper these days isn't anywhere near what it used to be. I had to remove it mechanically with a Scotchbrite pad in my die grinder. That made fairly light work of it. Next time I'll go for the bead blaster now it's set up properly.
Phil
What I would have given for some methylene chloride when I was stripping that bracket. More power to the EPA but I haven't found a paint stripper worth the money since they banned it.
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A few days ago, following advice on this forum... Gizzo, I think... added the ultimate touring accessory, a lovely soft sheepskin.
Super comfy, and it's a keeper!
Here it is on the road into Vila Real in beautiful Portugal today... just ahead of the thunder storm.
We were near from each other… N15 Route, from Vila Real to Porto
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We were near from each other… N15 Route, from Vila Real to Porto
Nice!
We were in Vila Real a few days back. Managed to dodge some serious weather!
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Yesterday I made myself a DIY fork seal cleaner (they're on youtube, check it out they work) from a plastic milk jug and gave my left seal a few rounds of clean/wipe/pump the forks. After 4 rounds there was no more seepage, 100% sorted.
But I noticed the spring on this fork seal was facing outward. Is it installed backward? Do stock seals have springs on both sides?
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Set tire pressure, cleaned and lubed the chain, added a few ounces of Berryman's B12 to the fuel and took it for a shakedown run around town. Left fork seal is still dry so I took it in for a, state inspection sticker.
(https://u.cubeupload.com/thebenchracer/20230607162021.jpg)
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Yesterday I made myself a DIY fork seal cleaner (they're on youtube, check it out they work) from a plastic milk jug and gave my left seal a few rounds of clean/wipe/pump the forks. After 4 rounds there was no more seepage, 100% sorted.
But I noticed the spring on this fork seal was facing outward. Is it installed backward? Do stock seals have springs on both sides?
Some dust seals have an external spring (Y type) such as those fitted to some Marzocchi forks.
https://sparewheel.fi/p/35846/ariete-ari-155-polytiivistesarja-43x54-3x6-15-4mm-y
If it's an oil seal with a spring then the spring will face internally or be at the axle end if you like.
Phil
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But this is a fork seal installed with the spring facing out, it's dry today after about 10 miles in town so I guess it's not an emergency.
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But this is a fork seal installed with the spring facing out, it's dry today after about 10 miles in town so I guess it's not an emergency.
Ignore to an extent my last post on spring location on the oil seal, it wasn't comprehensive enough.
Here's images of the spare seals I have for my Guzzi USD forks which I've just rebuilt.
top to bottom
Dust seal outer up
Dust seal inner up
Oil seal outer up
Oil seal inner up.
Note the oil seal has a spring on the inside and the outside where the dust seal is on the outer side only. Not all dust seals have a spring. The spring type is the less common.
Phil
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I’m beginning to think Phil has a thing for springs, especially when they relate to oil…
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I’ve only had the GT650 a couple of weeks but I continued doing a few mods. I added the RC paddock stand bobbins and also cleaned the grease out of the relay connectors and replaced the stock relays with Bosch relays purely as a precautionary measure. I’m at 300km so far so I’m still running her in. What a fun bike.
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Tested the Beeline mount and made 1200km in two days
Pictures deleted and moved to the right place
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FastFreddie, what pictures!
I think they are well worth reposting in the section: "Out and about on your 650 - photos". :)
Where in Portugal are those views?
Also, what did you learn during those 1200 km please?
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FastFreddie, what pictures!
I think they are well worth reposting in the section: "Out and about on your 650 - photos". :)
Where in Portugal are those views?
Also, what did you learn during those 1200 km please?
I already move it, thanks. What I learned? The Interceptor is a fabulous bike. About the pictures, Arganil, Vidual, Vila Velha Ródão and Marvão
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Well I did put on the Hitchcock free flow headers and the PC. The stainless brush finished one closely matches the S&S slip-ons which came with the bike. Yes, I did get them to match the slip-ons. The price isn't that ridiculous. If the bike didn't come with S & S slip ons I would have opted for any number of less expensive alternatives. Most tend to sound good.
I note the sound is a bit more aggressive (With silencers) and the engine braking "feel" is a wee bit less.
Both headers weigh as much as a single OEM header. They now have a nice gold tint.
I also removed the Reed Valves. Since they don't come with the newer bikes I yanked them and replaced it with the newer models finned ones. (They're ribbed for pleasure). No idea if the plug has a resister in it. I can't tell.
RH RLH00113
LH RLH00114
I can't honestly really tell what I got out the PC, hopefully the map is a litter richer overall. The Power Commander will be supplemental for a cam upgrade later in the year. I don't expect the booster plug to be the miracle it's claimed to be for a FF header and a cam upgrade. I'm sure it riches it but not enough for my situation.
The rear YSS shocks keep the wife from trampolining off the rear seat hitting a bump. She likes it. Although getting her on a bike takes 2 hours of begging, she prefers the Interceptor over the GS because she doesn't have to climb on. Even though her ass never bounced 6 inches off the seat in the GS.
The next project: YSS fork upgrade; drill out dampers to use the pd valve. I did get stiffer springs from Hitchcock's earlier and the preload adjusters. It improved it but I'd sure the valves are going to be a better option.
Remove the EVAP System. Because I can and I don't like in California. They generally tend to foul out anyway and the reality is they are recommended changes after so many miles anyway.
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Well I did put on the Hitchcock free flow headers and the PC. The stainless brush finished one closely matches the S&S slip-ons which came with the bike. Yes, I did get them to match the slip-ons. The price isn't that ridiculous. If the bike didn't come with S & S slip ons I would have opted for any number of less expensive alternatives. Most tend to sound good.
I note the sound is a bit more aggressive (With silencers) and the engine braking "feel" is a wee bit less.
Both headers weigh as much as a single OEM header. They now have a nice gold tint.
I also removed the Reed Valves. Since they don't come with the newer bikes I yanked them and replaced it with the newer models finned ones. (They're ribbed for pleasure). No idea if the plug has a resister in it. I can't tell.
RH RLH00113
LH RLH00114
I can't honestly really tell what I got out the PC, hopefully the map is a litter richer overall. The Power Commander will be supplemental for a cam upgrade later in the year. I don't expect the booster plug to be the miracle it's claimed to be for a FF header and a cam upgrade. I'm sure it riches it but not enough for my situation.
The rear YSS shocks keep the wife from trampolining off the rear seat hitting a bump. She likes it. Although getting her on a bike takes 2 hours of begging, she prefers the Interceptor over the GS because she doesn't have to climb on. Even though her ass never bounced 6 inches off the seat in the GS.
The next project: YSS fork upgrade; drill out dampers to use the pd valve. I did get stiffer springs from Hitchcock's earlier and the preload adjusters. It improved it but I'd sure the valves are going to be a better option.
Remove the EVAP System. Because I can and I don't like in California. They generally tend to foul out anyway and the reality is they are recommended changes after so many miles anyway.
Oh the environment is going to suffer massively from these changes :'( :'( ;)
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I installed a replacement rear brake master cylinder. In the process destroyed the rear brake light wiring. Discovered that there is a wiring plug one is supposed to disconnect before removing the banjo bolt at the top of the master cylinder much less reconnecting it. Them two little wires won't put up with the twisting and turning of the bolt before one of 'em breaks. Found a used master brake cylinder on eBay for half what a new cylinder kit with the rear brake light wire included costs. three to five day shipping delay.
It is how I learn. It is not a particularly inexpensive tuition. Also bought a right side case gasket when it is a left side case gasket I need. Five to seven day delay.
This is another aspect of my mechanical skills acquisition process. It too is more costly than necessary.
It has ever been so. Sigh.
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I installed a replacement rear brake master cylinder. In the process destroyed the rear brake light wiring. Discovered that there is a wiring plug one is supposed to disconnect before removing the banjo bolt at the top of the master cylinder much less reconnecting it. Them two little wires won't put up with the twisting and turning of the bolt before one of 'em breaks. Found a used master brake cylinder on eBay for half what a new cylinder kit with the rear brake light wire included costs. three to five day shipping delay.
It is how I learn. It is not a particularly inexpensive tuition. Also bought a right side case gasket when it is a left side case gasket I need. Five to seven day delay.
This is another aspect of my mechanical skills acquisition process. It too is more costly than necessary.
It has ever been so. Sigh.
Why were you replacing the rear brake Master cylinder? At least 650 parts are cheap. You don't want to do your learning mistakes on a Ducati thats for sure.
Phil
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Used my Rabaconda tyre changer for the first time today on some 180 and 120 Sports bike tyres. Works perfectly. It's pretty cold here today so I put both tyres on the tyre warmers before tackling the task.
Definitely worth the money esp if you do the KLM's and can spread the initial cost over the years. The advantage this has over a No Mar style is the force you are using to mount/dismount the tyre is directed into the frame and then the ground so it doesn't need anchoring and you're not chasing the machine around. Also no tyre lever comes in contact with the rim and the "duck head" does all the work.
https://rabaconda.com/
Phil
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Why were you replacing the rear brake Master cylinder? At least 650 parts are cheap. You don't want to do your learning mistakes on a Ducati thats for sure.
Phil
The master cylinder push rod was bent from my crash and the bike sliding down the road a ways on its right side. Mounting bracket broke and when the pedal twisted it bent the master cylinder push rod. Since I'm one of the fix it even though you don't know what you're doing kind of wrenchers and I had never worked on a master cylinder I didn't know the push rod is held in place with a circlip. Couldn't find the push rod alone so a whole new master cylinder was ordered.
That led to twisting the the brake light wires until they broke. That led to finding a used master cylinder WITH wiring for 1/2 what a new master cylinder alone costs. Now have a week or so of delivery delays to look forward to but that's okay it's s'posed to be 107F in near future. Working in the garage or riding will be out of the question for awhile.
This will drive you even crazier, Phil. I didn't do a thorough inventory of parts needing replacement so I've been ordering damaged parts as I discover them. Probably 7 different rounds of stuff from UK, India, and US. I'm accustomed to this costly manner of forward progress. I always think I'll be organized and proceed in an efficient manner. Took two swipes just to get the correct front axle nut. Sigh.
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The master cylinder push rod was bent from my crash and the bike sliding down the road a ways on its right side. Mounting bracket broke and when the pedal twisted it bent the master cylinder push rod. Since I'm one of the fix it even though you don't know what you're doing kind of wrenchers and I had never worked on a master cylinder I didn't know the push rod is held in place with a circlip. Couldn't find the push rod alone so a whole new master cylinder was ordered.
That led to twisting the the brake light wires until they broke. That led to finding a used master cylinder WITH wiring for 1/2 what a new master cylinder alone costs. Now have a week or so of delivery delays to look forward to but that's okay it's s'posed to be 107F in near future. Working in the garage or riding will be out of the question for awhile.
This will drive you even crazier, Phil. I didn't do a thorough inventory of parts needing replacement so I've been ordering damaged parts as I discover them. Probably 7 different rounds of stuff from UK, India, and US. I'm accustomed to this costly manner of forward progress. I always think I'll be organized and proceed in an efficient manner. Took two swipes just to get the correct front axle nut. Sigh.
I think you may be my spirit animal.
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The master cylinder push rod was bent from my crash and the bike sliding down the road a ways on its right side. Mounting bracket broke and when the pedal twisted it bent the master cylinder push rod. Since I'm one of the fix it even though you don't know what you're doing kind of wrenchers and I had never worked on a master cylinder I didn't know the push rod is held in place with a circlip. Couldn't find the push rod alone so a whole new master cylinder was ordered.
That led to twisting the the brake light wires until they broke. That led to finding a used master cylinder WITH wiring for 1/2 what a new master cylinder alone costs. Now have a week or so of delivery delays to look forward to but that's okay it's s'posed to be 107F in near future. Working in the garage or riding will be out of the question for awhile.
This will drive you even crazier, Phil. I didn't do a thorough inventory of parts needing replacement so I've been ordering damaged parts as I discover them. Probably 7 different rounds of stuff from UK, India, and US. I'm accustomed to this costly manner of forward progress. I always think I'll be organized and proceed in an efficient manner. Took two swipes just to get the correct front axle nut. Sigh.
No matter how hard you try this is often an issue. The deeper you dig the more you discover and it happens to even the most experienced. All the parts for my Guzzi need to be sourced from overseas and the postage is a major cost so when you end up short of one silly little part and have to bare the cost of postage it's very annoying. So I end up either over ordering to cover every possible probability OR over order again because I've discovered some unexpected part failure I need to address and order more stuff to make the postage costs worth it.
Needless to say I have an inventory of spares some of which I didn't realise I had until discover them again.
Phil
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Swapped my bike over to black guards front and rear. I think I like the look better and the guards tie into the side covers but it's not an OMG difference. Also the flat bars fitted to improve the ride position for me. Before and after. All opinions welcome.
Phil
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Those black guards look sweet.
Yesterday I covered my interceptor in a fine coating of dust. Having spent the whole of the previous day giving my chrome interceptor a special summer polish, after circumstances last year meant it had been a bit neglected, I then went and sanded back my garage doors in preparation for painting without thinking the wind would blow the dust all over my bike.
Idiot.
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Those black guards look sweet.
Yesterday I covered my interceptor in a fine coating of dust. Having spent the whole of the previous day giving my chrome interceptor a special summer polish, after circumstances last year meant it had been a bit neglected, I then went and sanded back my garage doors in preparation for painting without thinking the wind would blow the dust all over my bike.
Idiot.
Buy a claybar kit. That will fix it.
Phil
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I have to Dmit to having never used a clay bar kit.
Will give it a go, thanks
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I have to Dmit to having never used a clay bar kit.
Will give it a go, thanks
They are brilliant. After you wash your car of all the dirt on it run your hand over the paint. Then Clay bar it and you'll be stunned at the difference. After clay baring you'll realise it wasn't really clean at all/ The clay bar lifts all the stuck on material and it ends up like glass. Works well for removing paint over spray as well as lots of other stuff.
Phil
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Black fenders look great for sure. Flat bars also look sweet. I am trying to imagine what shape of human would find they improve the riding position though (?).
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Black fenders look great for sure. Flat bars also look sweet. I am trying to imagine what shape of human would find they improve the riding position though (?).
Its much more in line with the GT, which I find very comfortable.
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Yesterday I took my new C-Racer fairing to the paint shop. Same shop I took the first one to. Also had the damaged one from my accident the day BEFORE the Distinguished Gentleman's Ride. Three cracks and major road rash verified it as irreparable. No rush now ... still waiting on parts from all over the world. Sigh.
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Swapped my bike over to black guards front and rear. I think I like the look better and the guards tie into the side covers but it's not an OMG difference. Also the flat bars fitted to improve the ride position for me. Before and after. All opinions welcome.
Phil
The black front mudguard and flat bars look really good, gives your bike an ‘attitude’ adjustment.
I think there is a subtle design element with the black cooling fins that the guard sets off nicely.
I must admit I can’t see a different in the back, and feel like I’m playing one of those ‘Find 5 differences in these pictures’ game.
What am I missing?
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Look immediately below the tail light.
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Black fenders look great for sure. Flat bars also look sweet. I am trying to imagine what shape of human would find they improve the riding position though (?).
I'm 6'2" tall with long legs and arms. Every road bike I've ever owned has had clip ons or at the very least a sports tourer riding position so when I had to choose between the GT and the Interceptor the Interceptors nicer shaped and bigger capacity tank got the nod and I thought as it was primarily a pillion bike I'd try a traditional high bar set up.
The other issue I have is 2 crushed Vertebrae in my back from a big crash at PI a dozen or so years ago. The more upright riding position aggravates the old back injury so I thought I'd try flat bars and a more leaned forward position. it'll provide more room for the wife as well. I just need to machine up some bar end plugs for the bar end caps.
Phil
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I'm 6'2" tall with long legs and arms. Every road bike I've ever owned has had clip ons or at the very least a sports tourer riding position so when I had to choose between the GT and the Interceptor the Interceptors nicer shaped and bigger capacity tank got the nod and I thought as it was primarily a pillion bike I'd try a traditional high bar set up.
The other issue I have is 2 crushed Vertebrae in my back from a big crash at PI a dozen or so years ago. The more upright riding position aggravates the old back injury so I thought I'd try flat bars and a more leaned forward position. it'll provide more room for the wife as well. I just need to machine up some bar end plugs for the bar end caps.
Phil
The subtle, considered and well-executed mods you've made look great, Phil, and obviously meet your needs.
I contemplate swapping in GT footpegs so my legs feel less cramped. Many others report it's an excellent mod, which also removes the need for wide stance when stationary. I guess it cramps the pillion's foot space though. Is that why you haven't done it?
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I bought a new Dart flyscreen based on recommendations from fellow forum members. It took 10 minutes to fit, just six bolts.
Althougth I prefer the size/ look of the Classic, owners reviewing it say it's not effective and I'm a function first guy, so I opted for the bigger Marlin. It's well designed and made and removal requires unscrewing just two bolts, so when I want to look and feel cool, I can 🦸♂️
I haven't tested it yet as my pushie needed some tlc. Initially, I thought that meant a new chain, chainring, cassette and derailler hanger, which bent when I stacked it a few months back. But each part removed exposed another clapped out. I guess the time will come when that happens on the Inty 😭
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Not today :D, because I am about 1,000 miles from my GT650 but last weekend I finally mounted an ebay sourced rear brake light housing that I cleaned up and fitted turn signals to. I just didn’t like the stock plastic/chrome light and I can’t help but mess with stuff that works perfectly fine. :)
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The subtle, considered and well-executed mods you've made look great, Phil, and obviously meet your needs.
I contemplate swapping in GT footpegs so my legs feel less cramped. Many others report it's an excellent mod, which also removes the need for wide stance when stationary. I guess it cramps the pillion's foot space though. Is that why you haven't done it?
Yes exactly. More room for my wifes feet small though they are there's limited room fore and aft for the rider and pi;;ions feet esp when I ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs not the insteps.
Phil
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I'm 6'2" tall with long legs and arms. Every road bike I've ever owned has had clip ons or at the very least a sports tourer riding position so when I had to choose between the GT and the Interceptor the Interceptors nicer shaped and bigger capacity tank got the nod and I thought as it was primarily a pillion bike I'd try a traditional high bar set up.
The other issue I have is 2 crushed Vertebrae in my back from a big crash at PI a dozen or so years ago. The more upright riding position aggravates the old back injury so I thought I'd try flat bars and a more leaned forward position. it'll provide more room for the wife as well. I just need to machine up some bar end plugs for the bar end caps.
Phil
I would have been fine with the Interceptor bars if it had the better looking tank from the GT… just saying. To each their own.
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I haven't tested it yet as my pushie needed some tlc. Initially, I thought that meant a new chain, chainring, cassette and derailler hanger, which bent when I stacked it a few months back. But each part removed exposed another clapped out. I guess the time will come when that happens on the Inty 😭
Are you painting that nice steel frame? Those Redshift seatposts are the biz - I run something similar on my commuter, and a Shock-stop stem.
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What did you do to your bike today?
I built a guitar for it.
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Not today :D, because I am about 1,000 miles from my GT650 but last weekend I finally mounted an ebay sourced rear brake light housing that I cleaned up and fitted turn signals to. I just didn’t like the stock plastic/chrome light and I can’t help but mess with stuff that works perfectly fine. :)
Nice work and thanks for posting. I share your disposition for fixing things that are not broke. My brother, the car repair-shop owner, thinks I am an idiot for doing it.
The Lucas 679 "beehive" was used on the old Interceptor. I can't find a homologated version but I may make an exception from my otherwise law-abiding compulsion. However, I am wondering what the final backplate is. Is it the back thingy on the first picture? I am a bit thrown off by the stainless plate holder sticking out below. Is it integrated with the back plate or an add-on? Also, I think higher resolution images*, if possible, would help a lot.
Best,
Kranis
*) That's "hi-res pics" for the kids reading.
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Placed the yss front suspension kit 🥳 went well with all the info on this forum. I did it without removing the forks and drilled the damper rods.
Was easyer than i expected 🙂
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Placed the yss front suspension kit 🥳 went well with all the info on this forum. I did it without removing the forks and drilled the damper rods.
Was easyer than i expected 🙂
Drilling damper rods seems to have become an RE 650 rite of passage. There should be a back patch for it! ;D
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Drilling damper rods seems to have become an RE 650 rite of passage. There should be a back patch for it! ;D
https://www.thecheapplace.com/products/embroidered-patches/rank-patches/driller-patch
And the ones that wrote in those 1st topics get a hat 🙂
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=drill+instructor+hat&t=brave&iax=images&ia=images
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Added the RE sump guard, SS front and rear fenders, SS side panels, bar end mirrors and replaced the stock grips with my favs, Pro Grip 842s. Also added AEW TE 103 cans, a DNA filter and bracket as well as the booster plug. Pretty happy with the way it looks and runs.
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Added the RE sump guard, SS front and rear fenders, SS side panels, bar end mirrors and replaced the stock grips with my favs, Pro Grip 842s. Also added AEW TE 103 cans, a DNA filter and bracket as well as the booster plug. Pretty happy with the way it looks and runs.
From an aesthetics point of view I don't understand the side covers. You have a classic retro motorcycle thats all about curves and round forms. Round form curved tank front and rear guards, exhaust headers, engine covers esp the clutch side frame etc and then attach flat angular side covers that look like a chromed version of something I'd bend up on my bench sheet metal folder. They look totally out of place in my opinion. If you want matching chrome tank and side panels why not just chrome the originals?
Phil
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From an aesthetics point of view I don't understand the side covers. You have a classic retro motorcycle thats all about curves and round forms. Round form curved tank front and rear guards, exhaust headers, engine covers esp the clutch side frame etc and then attach flat angular side covers that look like a chromed version of something I'd bend up on my bench sheet metal folder. They look totally out of place in my opinion. If you want matching chrome tank and side panels why not just chrome the originals?
Phil
Well Phil, I reckon it's not for you to understand. I like the look myself. Reminds me of some older track bikes I've seen that were put together with sheet metal and a brake. If we all had to run our aesthetic decisions through you for your approval, I imagine we'd all be bored to death. Reminds me of what my dear old mother used to say. "If you don't have anything good to say, join a motorcycle forum and change your name to Phil." :-)
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Added the RE sump guard, SS front and rear fenders, SS side panels, bar end mirrors and replaced the stock grips with my favs, Pro Grip 842s. Also added AEW TE 103 cans, a DNA filter and bracket as well as the booster plug. Pretty happy with the way it looks and runs.
Busy guy! Nice work and taste.
As regards the side covers, I think they look "period correct" because that is how the home mod'r would have done it.
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Busy guy! Nice work and taste.
As regards the side covers, I think they look "period correct" because that is how the home mod'r would have done it.
Thanks. Glad someone gets it.
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Don't know about others but the less my bike looks like it's been got at by a back yard hacker the better. But that's just me I guess. I like refinement and elegance and value the fact that there are some pretty talented professionals with a vision of the design as a whole doing styling of motorcycles these days.
Phil
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Gave the Interceptor a bit of love this morning -
- valve clearances checked and adjusted
- oil and filter changed
- plug gaps checked
- chain cleaned, lubed, adjusted
Then I took it out for a bit of a squirt after lunch, the Verex pipes still make me grin every time I open the throttle.
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zeros,
a full service for a first post - wow!
Welcome ! :)
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Gave the Interceptor a bit of love this morning -
- valve clearances checked and adjusted
- oil and filter changed
- plug gaps checked
- chain cleaned, lubed, adjusted
Then I took it out for a bit of a squirt after lunch, the Verex pipes still make me grin every time I open the throttle.
Absolutely mate 8)
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Replaced RE relays by Bosch relays
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zeros,
a full service for a first post - wow!
Welcome ! :)
Thank you for your kind welcome -
Yes, I bought the interceptor second hand in late April and realised even though it hadn't done many km (about 2000) it had only had the first service done according to the records - which meant that it was nearly 2 years since it had been done.
I've been procrastinating and in the meantime somehow added nearly 1000km to the odometer.
Given the time since first service I felt it prudent to give it a good once-over, including doing the valve clearances as while they're part of the first service, there's no mention of it on the dealer's paperwork.
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Thanks. Glad someone gets it.
For what it's worth, and I know some will say it's worth nothing....lol, I like it. It's not the look I'm going for, but still good to see folks trying something different.
Don't let the negative comments stop you from being creative. My decisions have been dumped on a few times here. I find it funny because when you see the creations of the dumpers, they're aesthetically boring and dull. Nothing innovative.
I think folks forget what these bikes are. They act as if you're trying to modify a Bugatti La Voiture Noire. It's a friggin RE mass produced in India. Make it your own and besides, many of the mods can be easily and cheaply reversed.
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zeros,
thanks for an interesting introduction to your Interceptor.
1000 km in about 8 weeks - I like your style of procrastinating. :)
I wonder what you discovered while servicing your bike: was the oil black, were any valve gaps too loose or tight, was the chain dry and dirty, etc?
What, if any, difference has this made to riding, apart piece of mind?
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300 or so of those km were done in one day - riding it home after purchasing it.. a long day after driving up the coast with my wife to look at it, and then riding home on an unfamiliar machine on unfamiliar roads.
I know I really should have serviced it sooner - but I instead set about buying and adding some bits and pieces to it.
- DNA air filter and mounting ring
- Verex header pipes (to match the Verex slipons that previous owner had already fitted)
- Secondary Air Injection delete kit
- Booster plug
- Whites heated grips
- Royal Enfield aluminium sump guard (black)
- Royal Enfield premium touring seat
- Raw & Rugged leather side bag
- Garmin Zumo XT GPS
- and today, I added some quilted 'leather' tank knee pads
As for the service - the oil wasn't terrible, but it was only 2300km old. The valve clearances were mostly correct, with a couple of intake valves and an exhaust valve on the tight side and one exhaust valve a bit loose. Not extreme, but enough to warrant adjustment in my opinion. The plug gaps were fine, plugs also looked ok, although the right cylinder was a little darker - I might be imagining it but I also felt like the right plug lead wasn't on quite as securely as the left when I took them off - I'm not entirely sure that I'm not talking myself into that, *edit* although looking at the photos I attached, I can see the right side lead isn't fitted snugly, and that pic was taken a few weeks ago when I did the pipes.
The chain tension was a little looser than ideal, and I also discovered that removing the chain guard without removing the left side silencer is a hassle.
I think the main outcome of the service is that I now have the peace of mind that it's done - and I can get on with enjoying the bike.
While this isn't entirely a showoff thread, I can't resist showing you a bike that looks much like every other Interceptor...
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zeros,
thank you. Reading your inspiring comment, I forgot my dislike of spannerin' and felt like doin' stuff to my orange Enfield. :)
I always like pictures - who doesn't?! - so thanks for yours!
Are you a fair weather only rider, or are the leather tank pads waterproofed?
I think they're well placed as their contours appear perfectly parallel to the tank's.
I notice that the hot exhaust gases have already nicely coloured the down pipes. Which is like a reminder that these machines are not just for looking at... :)
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I bought it. ;D
Just signed the papers on a 22 Orange Crush with a full S&S Qualifier 2-1 exhaust.
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reese.leblanc,
CONGRATULATIONS !
I feel rather happy for you. :)
Please update me/ us with your future adventures, including more of those super pictures.
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Replaced original grips with vintage styled fatter ones.
The left grip has already begun to split which I've tried to contain with a cable tie.
Improved and easier holding for me, but will the grips last?
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Installed Woodcraft Clip Ons, painted a few parts black.
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Installed Woodcraft Clip Ons, painted a few parts black.
Bike is looking good, but I think it's missing at least half a dozen gauges.. that cockpit is way too clean
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Bike is looking good, but I think it's missing at least half a dozen gauges.. that cockpit is way too clean
LoL.... I have to relocate my TPS module. Is there a reputable gear indicator that'll work on this bike?
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LoL.... I have to relocate my TPS module. Is there a reputable gear indicator that'll work on this bike?
There are a couple but I believe they work by using the speed & rpm to calculate your gear.
This seems dumb as there is a gear indicator signal present on the bike that identifies the gear with different voltages on the line for each gear.
I know I could easily make one with a raspberry pi and small display, but that would be too large and not waterproof. I hope someone with better resources then me takes up the challenge.
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I use a device using magnet switches, see https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=30686.msg365957#msg365957 (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=30686.msg365957#msg365957).
It's not quite perfect, the reliability only is about 99%.
Currently I am working on a solution using the original gear sensor.
I am using the IC LM3914N, but it is still in an experimental state.
The plan is to mount one LED for every gear into the tachometer, the numbers are already there. ;)
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James Bond is supposed to neutralize this bomb 1 second before blast ! ;D
Funny we had 3 bikes in common, 500 XT, R100/7 and Interceptor
Prosit !
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The plan is to mount one LED for every gear into the tachometer, the numbers are already there. ;)
Super clever.
While you are down there ,... can you devise a plug & play which will simply convert my neutral light to a 6th gear light?
And yes, if it lights up the "N" in both neutral and 6th ... that is okay. I can tell the difference.
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Super clever.
While you are down there ,... can you devise a plug & play which will simply convert my neutral light to a 6th gear light?
And yes, if it lights up the "N" in both neutral and 6th ... that is okay. I can tell the difference.
I like that idea, its better then having some ugly gear indicator zip tied to the bars.
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I like the idea of incorporating the LEDs into the existing gauges.
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Let me introduce you to the "Dark cockpit" concept. It's used in aviation naturally and is basically a concept that says unless there is an issue that requires the pilots intervention then all cockpit indication lights should be out under normal conditions. Far less distracting especially over longer time periods and far more likely to get the pilots attention when a warning issue arises. The illuminated light idea sounds good at first blush but who wants an indicator light on permanently in 5th or 6th gear, not me especially at night. I also don't want a christmas tree affect as I'm shifting gears. I think if you must have an indication then a small LCD incorporated into the speedo or tacho is best.
Personally I think they are a handy indication if standard but not worth the effort otherwise.
Phil
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I use a device using magnet switches, see https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=30686.msg365957#msg365957 (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=30686.msg365957#msg365957).
It's not quite perfect, the reliability only is about 99%.
Currently I am working on a solution using the original gear sensor.
I am using the IC LM3914N, but it is still in an experimental state.
The plan is to mount one LED for every gear into the tachometer, the numbers are already there. ;)
this is cool. i always thought having an entire gauge dedicated mostly to a tach is a waste of space.
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Let me introduce you to the "Dark cockpit" concept. It's used in aviation naturally and is basically a concept that says unless there is an issue that requires the pilots intervention then all cockpit indication lights should be out under normal conditions. Far less distracting especially over longer time periods and far more likely to get the pilots attention when a warning issue arises. The illuminated light idea sounds good at first blush but who wants an indicator light on permanently in 5th or 6th gear, not me especially at night. I also don't want a christmas tree affect as I'm shifting gears. I think if you must have an indication then a small LCD incorporated into the speedo or tacho is best.
Personally I think they are a handy indication if standard but not worth the effort otherwise.
Phil
Respectfully, a commercial aircraft has way, way more indicators and gauges than any motorcycle. I don’t have your experience, but for several years I installed night vision recording systems in full motion flight simulators. That is what I was doing in Melbourne for Ansett.
Those cockpits are literally filled with lights, gauges, screens, switches & dials. I’m glad they do and more glad for the level of training given to those who fly them.
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Respectfully, a commercial aircraft has way, way more indicators and gauges than any motorcycle. I don’t have your experience, but for several years I installed night vision recording systems in full motion flight simulators. That is what I was doing in Melbourne for Ansett.
Those cockpits are literally filled with lights, gauges, screens, switches & dials. I’m glad they do and more glad for the level of training given to those who fly them.
Thats all true but the concept remains a valid one even on a motorcycle. You don't need instrument lights illuminated that are of little to no value as much as anything for the fact that they become annoying at night. The only indication for gears apart from neutral I see as useful is probably top gear. If the indication says 6th then you know you're in 6th and if it doesn't you must be in 5th. If you need something to tell you you're in anything below 5th then you need some riding lessons.
Phil
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The only indication for gears apart from neutral I see as useful is probably top gear.
For what do we have a rev counter? If it is slightly behind the speed counter - Top gear.
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For what do we have a rev counter? If it is slightly behind the speed counter - Top gear.
With what gearing?
Phil
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With what gearing?
Phil
6th gear, 90-100 km/h. The speed when 6 is appropriate. The speedometer needle is vertical, the rev a little left. Or did I misunderstood you question?
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6th gear, 90-100 km/h. The speed when 6 is appropriate. The speedometer needle is vertical, the rev a little left. Or did I misunderstood you question?
16 tooth countershaft sprocket? Oh let me think, tacho needle even more to the left then.
Phil
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16 tooth countershaft sprocket? Oh let me think, tacho needle even more to the left then.
Phil
Everything stock. In general - why has a bike a rev? To indicate when it's time to shift. Good ears would also do the job, but we are wearing helmets now
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Commenced tire swap.
Easy peasy...so far :D
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq70/923/Jn4C0a.jpg)
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Commenced tire swap.
Easy peasy...so far :D
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq70/923/Jn4C0a.jpg)
Looks like a midle age tortute device. We'll done.
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Looks like a midle age tortute device. We'll done.
Well done.
PS: Autocorrection is no AI at all.
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GT4TG,
how interesting - I really like the idea. :)
Did the lever begin to split near the fulcrum, you know, where the cable tie and cable clamp are?
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Looks like a midle age tortute device. We'll done.
It is quite ghetto fabulous, but works well enough to avoid the poor workmanship and high prices of the nearby shops.
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GT4TG,
how interesting - I really like the idea. :)
Did the lever begin to split near the fulcrum, you know, where the cable tie and cable clamp are?
Yes, that was a temporary repair that has lasted through dozens of tires over about 20 yrs.
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I too am digging the Fred Flintstone tech...but nice little compact bead breakers are not exactly expensive...
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That thing is almost as big as the bike itself, I don't have room for something like that ;D
Looks like it was time for a new tire too.
How many miles/km have you done on it?
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You stole the words out of my mouth with Ghettofabulous.
When my local, affordable tire guy went out of business during the Pandeezy, my option was the dealer, who asked an exhorbitant amount to swap tires, even off of the bike. I watched several videos involving devices such as the one you created. One guy with exposed vertical beams in his garage ran a bolt through the long "lever" board and one of his vertical beams to save space. Creative.
I ended up buying the last bead breaker on the shelf at Harbor Freight. I see that they have come up with an updated model with a longer lever. Much as I love your Pre-Columbian engineering, I need a tool that can perform that task and be put on a shelf.
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That thing is almost as big as the bike itself, I don't have room for something like that ;D
Looks like it was time for a new tire too.
How many miles/km have you done on it?
That pic makes it look like the tire is down to the tube, but it's just getting to wear bars at 4700 mi.
Shoulda swapped to the BT46 sooner, vastly improved straight tracking and carving clean arcs.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq70/924/Z2WM66.jpg)
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Much as I love your Pre-Columbian engineering, I need a tool that can perform that task and be put on a shelf.
The 2x4 abomination is more than just a bead breaker, its a stable platform for pushing the bead into the well while working the tire irons and keeping the brake rotor off the floor.
I'm not trying to sell the thing, just something that works for me, and stores with no issues.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq70/924/9ldqnv.jpg)
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That's pretty cool. I like your raised arms that lift the rim/tire, and keep the rotor/hub off of the floor and out of harm's way. Clever packaging too.
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Yes, that was a temporary repair that has lasted through dozens of tires over about 20 yrs.
I thinking if I was changing dozens of tyres over that time frame I'd just spend the money on a Rabaconda tyre changer and be done with it. Thats a big troncus for a dedicated bead breaker only. You still have the issue of tyre levers and working on your knees on the floor etc to deal with.
It's a cost benefit/injury/damage equation and with what they charge for tyre changes these days a professional tool I think is worth it.
Phil
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Bought a 5 gallon gas can to drain the original gas tank that I had filled up the day of my crash so there's still a bunch in there. Tried 2 different siphoning techniques with no success. Finally got a funnel and set the gas can on a bunch of the dirtiest shop towels and slopped as much gas as I could out of the filler neck. Now I will be able to remove the stuff from the bottom of the dented original tank and install them on the new replacement tank.
For a minute I though about going to the auto parts store and buying the cheapest 12v fuel pump and rigging something up a la Rube Goldberg. 'Fraid I'd up and blow myself to smithereens so opted for the messy, stinky approach.
Sorry no photos. Too damn hot by the time I finished. Got an east facing garage door and it becomes a very large and powerful radiant heater by 9AM.
Maybe start earlier tomorrow and snap some pics.
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Bought a 5 gallon gas can to drain the original gas tank that I had filled up the day of my crash so there's still a bunch in there. Tried 2 different siphoning techniques with no success. Finally got a funnel and set the gas can on a bunch of the dirtiest shop towels and slopped as much gas as I could out of the filler neck. Now I will be able to remove the stuff from the bottom of the dented original tank and install them on the new replacement tank.
For a minute I though about going to the auto parts store and buying the cheapest 12v fuel pump and rigging something up a la Rube Goldberg. 'Fraid I'd up and blow myself to smithereens so opted for the messy, stinky approach.
Sorry no photos. Too damn hot by the time I finished. Got an east facing garage door and it becomes a very large and powerful radiant heater by 9AM.
Maybe start earlier tomorrow and snap some pics.
Sorry you have to be dealing with this.
As an aside, over the years I've come to keeping a pack of "puppy training pads" in the shop. Very cheap / very effective.
Anytime liquids are involved ...
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Bought a 5 gallon gas can to drain the original gas tank that I had filled up the day of my crash so there's still a bunch in there. Tried 2 different siphoning techniques with no success. Finally got a funnel and set the gas can on a bunch of the dirtiest shop towels and slopped as much gas as I could out of the filler neck. Now I will be able to remove the stuff from the bottom of the dented original tank and install them on the new replacement tank.
For a minute I though about going to the auto parts store and buying the cheapest 12v fuel pump and rigging something up a la Rube Goldberg. 'Fraid I'd up and blow myself to smithereens so opted for the messy, stinky approach.
Sorry no photos. Too damn hot by the time I finished. Got an east facing garage door and it becomes a very large and powerful radiant heater by 9AM.
Maybe start earlier tomorrow and snap some pics.
Why not syphon out what you can and turn the tank up side down and remove the pump etc then dump the rest?
Phil
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I've done a few things over the last few days. I did my 300 mile service Sunday with the help of my son. The valve cover is definitely a tight fit to removed but the valve adjustment was pretty simple. While I had the left cover plug off I decided to paint the layers on it. The right cover is next.
I found out that the Mobil 1 104A filter is NOT the best choice with a 2-1 exhaust. 😲 That filter is a little longer than the factory one and the clearance between it and the header is VERY close. If my eBay filters will ever actually ship I'll probably do an oil change sooner than needed just for peace of mind. Side note: it's easier to remove the exhaust than try to work in such a tight space with the 2-1.
I shortened my rear fender extension. That was easy enough that I did it on my lunch break.I like the shorter lol and expect that I'll still keep most of the water off off my back.
I also cleaned up the relay connectors and swapped in a full set of the Panasonic variety. You guys weren't kidding about the overabundance of Indian grade in the connectors!!
More to come soon!
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Made a bracket and remounted my TPS monitor.
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Made a bracket and remounted my TPS monitor.
Where is it attacked to the bike?
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Where is it attacked to the bike?
I made a plate attached to the bottom of the gauges for the original mounting location pre fairing and clip ons.
I made a new bracket attached to that which gives it a better location.
It's not pretty, but with a little paint, it's not something anyone can see.
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Today I bought these Kellermann turn signals, to replace others that I bought not long ago and that turned out to be fatal, I hope I'm not wrong, regards.
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Yesterday I changed the stock plugs for NGK iridiums and disassembled the rear light housing to figure out a less 80's style solution.
Tonight I'm going to drink a beer and probably spend money on lights. 🍻
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Are you painting that nice steel frame? Those Redshift seatposts are the biz - I run something similar on my commuter, and a Shock-stop stem.
What da ya mean, paint that nice steel frame?! Every ding, scratch and rub that's worn through to rust on that forest green (climate-friendly!) paint is value added patina, ironically doubling to repel would-be bicycle thieves 🤗
I agree the suspension seatpost is the biz. (Surprisingly, you're the first person I've come across who's commented on it, let alone has one.) Sadly, I cant say the same about the shock-stop stem, which I bought first and have now had several years to become increasingly disappointed with. Sure, it offers a modicum of dampening while riding in the hoods, but the pivot and elastomer design is a dud; simultaneously spongy and clunky, it fails to live up to the marketing hype. So much so, I've left it off my rebuild to trial a shorter standard stem with softer fatter tyres (and prolly some gel pads under the bar tape when I get round to it.)
I say trial because I expect I'll be stumping up the (gulp!) $464 for the Vecnum Frequence (https://www.vecnum.com/en/products/freeqence), which works similar to the Redshift seatpost, so should, indeed, be the bees. Party in front and the back!
I finally got the bike back together earlier in the week - new cassette, derailer, chain, chainring, BB, front disc, brake pads, cables, and head stem bearings. Apart from loose stem bearings, which I'm can't seem to sort out - I've got several leftover steel and plastic rings that don't seem to fit anywhere - the bike's a dream ride: sharp and playful. I ditched the Velo crazy orange flat bar experiment and returned to OEM drops and Rival1 brifters and I dropped a couple of teeth from the OEM chainring so I can now climb steep hills without lifting my arse off the saddle. I suspect the Frequence stem will be the icing! But stumping up a monkey for it...! 😲Oh🤯My🤪Jesus!
Ps, My apologies for the delay in replying, Adrian. I've been away a bit lately and only sporadically checking in here.
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What da ya mean, paint that nice steel frame?! Every ding, scratch and rub that's worn through to rust on that forest green (climate-friendly!) paint is value added patina, ironically doubling to repel would-be bicycle thieves 🤗
I agree the suspension seatpost is the biz. (Surprisingly, you're the first person I've come across who's commented on it, let alone has one.) Sadly, I cant say the same about the shock-stop stem, which I bought first and have now had several years to become increasingly disappointed with. Sure, it offers a modicum of dampening while riding in the hoods, but the pivot and elastomer design is a dud; simultaneously spongy and clunky, it fails to live up to the marketing hype. So much so, I've left it off my rebuild to trial a shorter standard stem with softer fatter tyres (and prolly some gel pads under the bar tape when I get round to it.)
I say trial because I expect I'll be stumping up the (gulp!) $464 for the Vecnum Frequence (https://www.vecnum.com/en/products/freeqence), which works similar to the Redshift seatpost, so should, indeed, be the bees. Party in front and the back!
I finally got the bike back together earlier in the week - new cassette, derailer, chain, chainring, BB, front disc, brake pads, cables, and head stem bearings. Apart from loose stem bearings, which I'm can't seem to sort out - I've got several leftover steel and plastic rings that don't seem to fit anywhere - the bike's a dream ride: sharp and playful. I ditched the Velo crazy orange flat bar experiment and returned to OEM drops and Rival1 brifters and I dropped a couple of teeth from the OEM chainring so I can now climb steep hills without lifting my arse off the saddle. I suspect the Frequence stem will be the icing! But stumping up a monkey for it...! 😲Oh🤯My🤪Jesus!
Ps, My apologies for the delay in replying, Adrian. I've been away a bit lately and only sporadically checking in here.
Yes, the Redshift stem is pretty subtle in effect. Sounds like you're looking for more cushioning than a soft stem - have you considered a gravel suspension fork? Something like this https://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/fox-32-taper-cast-2023/ (https://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/fox-32-taper-cast-2023/)
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Changed 80% of the fork oil to a ”universal” ATF oil with a well-defined kinematic viscosity: ISO 32. I’m lazy so I just stuck a suction tube (OK, it was a 3/8” beer line…) down the forkleg and pumped out 370-400 ml out of each leg and replaced it to the same level, which incidentally was just above the spring. Tests at highish speeds confirmed my suspicion that 80% of the complaints about the front suspension can be traced to the fork oil being too light (about 25 cSt). The preload might also need adjustment for ”grown” men and I am currently up 6mm from the original 18mm. The front ”chatter” is gone and I am one happy camper. Before, 120 km/h (75 mph) gave me more adrenaline than I was looking for. It felt like the bike was semi-hovering over a washbord. But now it is all good. In conclusion, I think that checking the rider sag to get the preload right(ish) and changing to a fork oil to somewhere between 32-36 cSt should be mandatory before any other mods are done to the fork. As a caveat, the roads around Stockholm are pretty decent so low speed damping is of primary importance. However, for rougher roads, increasing the damping will of course make bumps more noticable. If so, valve emulators and such are the cure. In conclusion, there are things to do that cost very little that can meaningfully improve the front end performance, especially if the roads are good. The bike still takes a grovelling bow during hard breaking though. I am vaguely considering the Matris FSE kit but I have some iterations before that, notably a linear 8.5 N/mm spring.
Cheers,
/Kranis
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Yes, the Redshift stem is pretty subtle in effect. Sounds like you're looking for more cushioning than a soft stem - have you considered a gravel suspension fork? Something like this https://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/fox-32-taper-cast-2023/ (https://flowmountainbike.com/post-all/fox-32-taper-cast-2023/)
I guess that's another way of describing it. My frame is standard 11/8" non tapered stem so suspension forks like the flow/fox32 don't fit. But even if they did, I'm hand wringing over a monkey for the Frequence: If I had a ten grand bike, $1600 for a fork might seem reasonable, but not for my beater.
Ps, A week or two back I was discussing with a mate/ audax junky whether the Singular Swift Mk5 (https://singularcycles.com/products/swift-steel) might be my next ATB. It has geometry corrected for such as the Fox 32
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I wanna go on tour again. Besides the typical checks I mounted rails for genuine Enfield bags. Heavy monsters, as expected, and too far away from the bike.
And I exchanged the single leather seat with Continental's default seat. Since the weather is not so good, I thought wet leather isn't that nice when you must ride next day again. I realized that the standard seat is much softer than the single seat. In my experience soft seats feel good at the beginning, but after a while they get uncomfy. Let's see...
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Karl Steel,
have you had a look for a waterproof seat cover for your more comfortable leather seat?
If the expected rain is only light then an application of warm (to keep it runny) beeswax-neatsfoot oil mixture might suffice. :)
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Today I did to my bike a little enhancement:
I sprayed the fender extenders silver, front and back. :)
It's not a colour match, however, to my eyes, it looks much better this way.
I have yet to ride my Interceptor with these 'new' fender extenders but I expect it will have gained some torque!
Or should that be 'talk'? :)
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When I took the fender extenders off, I saw underneath, lines for every hole. I wonder if they showed where to drill?
Has anybody else noticed similar markings pencilled on their bike?
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I think that is a vast improvement Hihihi! May not be a perfect match, but it does blend them in with the fenders.
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Well there's two people with no sense of aesthetics. I can't even bring myself to comment on the front mudflap but every picture tells a story I guess.
Phil
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Well there's two people with no sense of aesthetics. I can't even bring myself to comment on the front mudflap but every picture tells a story I guess.
Phil
Thats the thing phill, you dont have to comment, you can just sit there shaking your head in disbelief.
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I can always count on Phil to say the things that I'd never post. Thank you for your service.
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Today I did to my bike a little enhancement:
I sprayed the fender extenders silver, front and back. :)
It's not a colour match, however, to my eyes, it looks much better this way.
I have yet to ride my Interceptor with these 'new' fender extenders but I expect it will have gained some torque!
Or should that be 'talk'? :)
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When I took the fender extenders off, I saw underneath, lines for every hole. I wonder if they showed where to drill?
Has anybody else noticed similar markings pencilled on their bike?
I think it gives the bike a very retro look, good job.
Far, far better than the mangled chopped off look so many copy. Brownie points for originality.
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This satisfies my curiosity... I had wondered what the mudguards would look like painted silver to match the fenders as much as possible.
Thank you for putting the effort in to show us. I imagine I can't be the only one who was wondering.
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Got the polish out. I kind of hate doing it but then always pleased after I've finished.
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Thanks
Deathwish,
lucky phil,
dav,
IFGD,
JessHerbst and
Gone in 60.
I appreciate the positive, negative and diplomatic comments. :)
For me it's the next best thing to the style of a Royal Enfield Classic 350 fender. And, I managed to do it without breaking anything (I hope). :)
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Added a seat cover from Sahara Seats. It matches the saddlebags perfectly.
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What did I do to my bike?
I installed a mudflap at the front of the rear wheel arch.
Not long after setting off on the next ride, the abs- and engine symbols lit up and the bike felt like it had lost some power.
On closer inspection, it appeared that while refitting the wheel, the right side spacer had dropped out and behind the abs ring.
This allowed some, ooh let's call it 'freestyle angle grinding' against the bracket for the rear brake caliper.
I cleaned everything up as best I could and paid more attention to all the spacers being on the spindle this time. :)
Yes I was a plonker not to have double checked that all the pieces were where they ought to be, but also, what a decidedly dreadful design! :(
Now I need to replace what's left of the abs speed sensor with a new one (the symbols for abs and engine are still illuminated).
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RoyalBiscuit,
what an amazing match, I agree. :)
I guess, without the brass studs the illusion would be complete...
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RoyalBiscuit,
what an amazing match, I agree. :)
I guess, without the brass studs the illusion would be complete...
I wish I could have gotten those bags without the studs, but they weren’t a deal breaker. Some days I like them. The best thing about the bags, is the cup holder. My insulated coffee mug fits like a glove. I also added adjustable levers that just came in. They work great and look a lot better than the stock ones did.
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Added a seat cover from Sahara Seats. It matches the saddlebags perfectly.
Very nice
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What did I do to my bike?
I installed a mudflap at the front of the rear wheel arch.
Not long after setting off on the next ride, the abs- and engine symbols lit up and the bike felt like it had lost some power.
On closer inspection, it appeared that while refitting the wheel, the right side spacer had dropped out and behind the abs ring.
This allowed some, ooh let's call it 'freestyle angle grinding' against the bracket for the rear brake caliper.
I cleaned everything up as best I could and paid more attention to all the spacers being on the spindle this time. :)
Yes I was a plonker not to have double checked that all the pieces were where they ought to be, but also, what a decidedly dreadful design! :(
Now I need to replace what's left of the abs speed sensor with a new one (the symbols for abs and engine are still illuminated).
Ouch!!! I’m surprised you did not hear that as soon as you started rolling.
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RoyalBiscuit,
me too. Who knows what it sounded like... :)
By the way, nice levers. I think they suit your motorcycle!
Of course the leather grips go well with the seat and luggage.
Your customising will soon warrant a "Biscuit" sticker over the top of "Enfield", eh? :)
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RoyalBiscuit,
me too. Who knows what it sounded like... :)
Bother. Time for a new calliper mount by the look of that..
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Fitted hitchcocks throttle cables to replace my snapped return,
Also fitted norman hyde progressive front springs. Can confirm they are labelled as ikon. First impressions are very good, nicely made springs and spacers
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Completed the first service on the GT. Everything went smoothly. Only one tappet was out by just a smidge.
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RoyalBiscuit,
what an achievement! :)
At least it would be for me.
Next year maybe...
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Got the polish out. I kind of hate doing it but then always pleased after I've finished.
Beautiful! Is the pain gone yet? 😈
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Today I fitted an LED headlight and hard mounted some saddlebags. The bags came as throw over version. The wide band that connected them caused a discontinuity in the seat cowl to the rear fender (1st pic). I removed the rear grab handle and made some brackets to bolt on where the handle was (2nd and 3rd pics). Then mounted the bags with wing nuts and lock washer es for quick removal if wanted.
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Today I fitted an LED headlight and hard mounted some saddlebags. The bags came as throw over version. The wide band that connected them caused a discontinuity in the seat cowl to the rear fender (1st pic). I removed the rear grab handle and made some brackets to bolt on where the handle was (2nd and 3rd pics). Then mounted the bags with wing nuts and lock washer es for quick removal if wanted.
Thats pretty much the same brackets I made for my reserve fuel bottles.
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RoyalBiscuit,
nice job. You must be having fun customising. :)
What made you position the panniers so far back?
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Permanently moved my seat latch to above the rear fender. Out of sight but easy to get to without removing the side cover. Also got my new headlight and front turn signals mounted. Waiting for some paint to dry to get the new tail light and rear signals mounted up. Tomorrow is another day.
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Permanently moved my seat latch to above the rear fender. Out of sight but easy to get to without removing the side cover. Also got my new headlight and front turn signals mounted. Waiting for some paint to dry to get the new tail light and rear signals mounted up. Tomorrow is another day.
That's pretty cool and gives me ideas, thanks!
Did you fabricate the bracket for the seat latch, or just relocate the existing.
Sorry, I haven't researched yet.
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Just sat and stared at it. Waiting for my Ruff and Rugged bags to come in from India.
Almost a month.... hopefully worth it.
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That's pretty cool and gives me ideas, thanks!
Did you fabricate the bracket for the seat latch, or just relocate the existing.
Sorry, I haven't researched yet.
I used this pipe clamp and put a rubber hose on the cable so it would be thick enough to clamp securely. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085KXMYDZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085KXMYDZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
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I used this pipe clamp and put a rubber hose on the cable so it would be thick enough to clamp securely. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085KXMYDZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085KXMYDZ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
You're making it really easy for me.
Much appreciated.
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...and finished up the LED tail light and rear turn signals today. Had to wait for the paint to dry on the tail light bracket.
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...and finished up the LED tail light and rear turn signals today.
Looking good. Did you modify the electrics because of the LEDs?
Thinking about a led tail light and indicators at the rear.
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Looking good. Did you modify the electrics because of the LEDs?
Thinking about a led tail light and indicators at the rear.
Yes. I swapped out the turn signal relay with one from Hitchcock's for LEDs. Don't have to mess with resistors that way.
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Did you modify the electrics because of the LEDs?
Don't know for Deathwish, but I didn't and all work well since 2021.
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...and finished up the LED tail light and rear turn signals today. Had to wait for the paint to dry on the tail light bracket.
What do you keep in the box behind the license plate?
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What do you keep in the box behind the license plate?
My paperwork and a spare relay. It has a lock and a rubber seal, but I wouldn't call it extremely secure.
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...and finished up the LED tail light and rear turn signals today. Had to wait for the paint to dry on the tail light bracket.
Is that a storage box integrated into the license plate braacket?
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Is that a storage box integrated into the license plate braacket?
Yes it is. It's ABS plastic and has a key lock. Can't put much in there, but it fits my insurance card, registration and a spare relay with room left over. Figured it was better than taping a zip-lock baggie to the bottom of my seat.
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Thats pretty much the same brackets I made for my reserve fuel bottles.
I like those brackets. They were easy to make.
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RoyalBiscuit,
nice job. You must be having fun customising. :)
What made you position the panniers so far back?
I liked the looks of them back there, but the main reason was to clear the passenger foot pegs in case I put a dual seat on.
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It's time for some maintenance, 12000 miles in. Also replacing the chain and adding a few things.
The big winner so far is replacing the bolts that hold the rear sprocket with button head cap screws. The rear wheel is no longer a fight to put on!
Can't believe I put off doing that for so long. Every single time the wheel had to be put back on it was a fight, and obviously the bulky bolt heads were a major part of the reason.
SO much better.
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Removed my crossbar, blacked out the headlight bezel (somewhat temporarily with plasti-dip). No mirrors in this shot as I was getting an idea of how the bike would look and feel with the underbar/bar ends I'm planning on installing soon. https://imgur.com/a/iHLz6nU (https://imgur.com/a/iHLz6nU)
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Finally received and installed the Ruff and Rugged side bag.
Nice product and quality. Very impressed.
The tank strap/bag is on the way.
Next is moving the seat latch so removing the side panel isn't required.
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Did the 10.000 km service, it's so easy to work on this machine, specially on a bike lift. And despite what I have read here and there, I had no problem with the rubber seal during disassembly and reassembly (with black silicone Loctite sealant) of the rocker cover. Maybe I got lucky ... or very cautious ;)
(https://zupimages.net/up/23/34/zw9t.jpg)
(https://zupimages.net/up/23/34/48mj.jpg)
(https://zupimages.net/up/23/34/efmc.jpg)
(https://zupimages.net/up/23/34/m54j.jpg)
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Finally received and installed the Ruff and Rugged side bag.
Nice product and quality. Very impressed.
The tank strap/bag is on the way.
Next is moving the seat latch so removing the side panel isn't required.
I like those bags. Been thinking of getting a pair myself.
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I put LED turn signals on the front and converted to Mr Clean. Huge transformation.
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Finally finished up the seat cowl. Had it made from thick gauge sheet metal and chromed/painted. Took some trimming and fitting, but I think it came out rather nice.
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Very nice
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Finally finished up the seat cowl. Had it made from thick gauge sheet metal and chromed/painted. Took some trimming and fitting, but I think it came out rather nice.
Geez_ Great job. Great taste.
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Finally finished up the seat cowl. Had it made from thick gauge sheet metal and chromed/painted. Took some trimming and fitting, but I think it came out rather nice.
Looks great. The cowl seems to be very close to the factory cowl. Can’t imagine how much work went into fabricating it from metal. Good job.
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I just installed these Kellermann pl 1000, 🥂
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It's time for some maintenance, 12000 miles in. Also replacing the chain and adding a few things.
The big winner so far is replacing the bolts that hold the rear sprocket with button head cap screws. The rear wheel is no longer a fight to put on!
Can't believe I put off doing that for so long. Every single time the wheel had to be put back on it was a fight, and obviously the bulky bolt heads were a major part of the reason.
SO much better.
Any link to the replacement bolts? Can you use them on the brake rotors too?
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You lost me at "thick gauge sheet metal"
Phil
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You lost me at "thick gauge sheet metal"
Phil
No worries Phil. We all know you've been lost for some time now. :D
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Wow, Deathwish, that came out really nice!
What did I do with my bike? Fretted over nothing. Or rather, fretted over my bike for nothing. My Interceptor gets parked behind my car in the garage. I rarely use my car, so no big deal. If I ever do need to use the car, just roll the bike out of the way. My CB1100 is parked at the office and is only ridden one or two times a month. Brought the CB home and left the Enfield at the office for the long weekend, and noticed a drop of oil on the garage floor while I was detailing the CB. It didn't come from the CB, so in the back of my mind over the holiday weekend, I was wondering where the Enfield was leaking from... how bad was it... how hard would it be to fix.
Got to the office this morning, got under the Enfield, and it's clean and dry. No leaks. Huh. Musta been from something else. But what...
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I put the standard silencers back on the bike. I am going into Germany and the Enfield Precision silencers havent got an E mark in it and the German's can be akward.
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I put the standard silencers back on the bike. I am going into Germany and the Enfield Precision silencers havent got an E mark in it and the German's can be akward.
Are they legal in your country? If yes, it should not be a problem.
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Finally finished up the seat cowl. Had it made from thick gauge sheet metal and chromed/painted. Took some trimming and fitting, but I think it came out rather nice.
Looks exactly like the one you can buy for a hundred something $ at mk-designs.
That one is also good, but has to be laquered.
https://www.ebay.de/itm/364443153389
That one is good for Mr. Clean
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266319594599
Normaly such forms are driven out of alu, never heard that you can do that with steel.
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This was not available at the time I started building the cowl. Also, that one is plastic with chrome vinyl wrap. With shipping ($95.52), I paid less for my cowl. I'm happy with real chromed metal, thank you.
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Normaly such forms are driven out of alu, never heard that you can do that with steel.
Hmmm. You haven't done much body work I assume. Used to make sheet metal body parts quite a bit back in the day. Would never put an aluminum piece on a car body that wasn't replacing aluminum. Not to mention most custom builders over here still make fenders and tanks out of steel.
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Finally finished up the seat cowl. Had it made from thick gauge sheet metal and chromed/painted. Took some trimming and fitting, but I think it came out rather nice.
Gotta ask... Have you considered using a solo seat? A lot of desirable real estate under that cowl. ;)
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Hmmm. You haven't done much body work I assume.
No, never. I thought about building a cowl out of fiber glas. But never started. How much time did you need?
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Are they legal in your country? If yes, it should not be a problem.
Unfortunately that is the problem. Without an E mark they arent legal and that means I could have a problem when I go to Germany. In the Netherland they arent bothered about that at all but still not legal.
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Unfortunately that is the problem. Without an E mark they arent legal and that means I could have a problem when I go to Germany. In the Netherland they arent bothered about that at all but still not legal.
Yes, I know. I wonder what would happen if a guy from UK travels through Germany. Must his bike fulfill German requirements, or UK only? I think our cops would let you go, they are only mad on locals.
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Gotta ask... Have you considered using a solo seat? A lot of desirable real estate under that cowl. ;)
Yes, it's quite a big storage. Good for thin rain jacket and trousers.
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Yes, I know. I wonder what would happen if a guy from UK travels through Germany. Must his bike fulfill German requirements, or UK only? I think our cops would let you go, they are only mad on locals.
I know how it works by now. German rules dont apply for us. If it is something that isn legal in the Netherlands you could get problems in Germany too. They are very strict on clutch and brakelevers too in Germany. I dont think that they are strict about those in the Netherlands so legally they cant do anything with that when we visit Germany.
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Gotta ask... Have you considered using a solo seat? A lot of desirable real estate under that cowl. ;)
I have, but decided against it. Kept the pillion pegs and seat on the off chance I can convince my wife to ride on occasion.
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No, never. I thought about building a cowl out of fiber glas. But never started. How much time did you need?
It took about 10 weeks total with sending it out for chrome and then paint. To be honest, I probably would have bought a fiberglass one if they had been available in that color scheme when I first started looking, but the more I thought about it, I liked the idea of being able to polish the chrome and not having to worry about a vinyl wrap.
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They are very strict on clutch and brakelevers too in Germany.
Can you tell me what goes up their butts about clutch & brake levers in 25 words or less ??? ???(http://)
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Can you tell me what goes up their butts about clutch & brake levers in 25 words or less ??? ???(http://)
A cheap brake lever may break. (6 words)
PS: not my opinion, but that's the main argumentation. (9 more, sorry)
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Wow, Karl! That sounds pretty draconian. Just curious, how do they check? Is there an annual inspection or something like that?
Deathwish, on your seat cowl, thinking about my meager metalworking skills... how was it made, from one piece, or multiple pieces and welded together?
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Deathwish, on your seat cowl, thinking about my meager metalworking skills... how was it made, from one piece, or multiple pieces and welded together?
It's a single piece of sheet metal. No welds.
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Wow, Karl! That sounds pretty draconian. Just curious, how do they check? Is there an annual inspection or something like that?
there is a full check all 2 years, and police does a lot of additional checks on the roadside. Certified levers have a so called CE stamp, as well as indicators, lights, mirrors, cans, and may other items. If parts have no CE (European certification), they must have a German ABE ("Allgemeine Betriebs Erlaubnis", means a permision). Only few parts like seat, grips, racks, bags, fenders need nothing. If you are using a part without certification, the penalty can be pretty high, and police can take your bike out of traffic immediately..
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there is a full check all 2 years, and police does a lot of additional checks on the roadside. Certified levers have a so called CE stamp, as well as indicators, lights, mirrors, cans, and may other items. If parts have no CE (European certification), they must have a German ABE ("Allgemeine Betriebs Erlaubnis", means a permision). Only few parts like seat, grips, racks, bags, fenders need nothing. If you are using a part without certification, the penalty can be pretty high, and police can take your bike out of traffic immediately..
Understandable considering you have roads with very high or no speed limits. I would not want to drive on such roads with the lack standards of vehicle inspection in place in the USA.
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I believe that here in France, there is no such thing as a motorcycle roadworthiness test. Yet. :)
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there is a full check all 2 years, and police does a lot of additional checks on the roadside. Certified levers have a so called CE stamp, as well as indicators, lights, mirrors, cans, and may other items. If parts have no CE (European certification), they must have a German ABE ("Allgemeine Betriebs Erlaubnis", means a permision). Only few parts like seat, grips, racks, bags, fenders need nothing. If you are using a part without certification, the penalty can be pretty high, and police can take your bike out of traffic immediately..
Thanks for the explanation. I was curious, and now something makes more sense to me... I used to work for a company that made racing parts that were sold worldwide, and we had to update our parts with a CE logo, either molded or stamped into the part. Seems pretty strict, and I'm sure many bikes rolling aound in my neighborhood would fail miserably.
On the tail, one piece - not bad!
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It's a bit weird that in the European Union there are so many different rules regarding motorcycles. TSTM told me that in Spain (where he lives) motorcycles have an annual inspection where -among other things- the bike is being checked on original parts. So if you change something it's best to keep the original parts and put them back on for the inspection. Ofcourse this isn't an option for some changes.
In The Netherlands cars have an annual inspection (APK) but motorcycles don't. Yet...
This is unusual because we Dutch are very good at making rules for just about everything. I think they must have forgotten about the APK for motorcycles... ;D
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It's a bit weird that in the European Union there are so many different rules regarding motorcycles. TSTM told me that in Spain (where he lives) motorcycles have an annual inspection where -among other things- the bike is being checked on original parts. So if you change something it's best to keep the original parts and put them back on for the inspection. Ofcourse this isn't an option for some changes.
In The Netherlands cars have an annual inspection (APK) but motorcycles don't. Yet...
This is unusual because we Dutch are very good at making rules for just about everything. I think they must have forgotten about the APK for motorcycles... ;D
They didnt forget but most of the motorcycle accidents in the Netherlands have got nothing to do with the technical state of the bike. For that reason there was no need for a motorcycle test.
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Yes, in Spain there is an "anual" check for vehicles. (ITV)
The first is after 4 years.
After that every 2 years and after the vehicle is 10 years of age, the check is annually.
You get an ugly approval sticker you have to put on the right fork leg.
I have bar end mirrors on my bike and the dealer gave me the original mirrors in a box and told me I had to put them back on for the ITV check.
He told me this also goes for exhausts, led lights etc.
"Always keep the original."
And extras like panniers need to be taken off.
Even the tire size is on the vehicle registration, so I'm not allowed to choose a different tire size.
Same goes for cars.
Because of this, official customized bikes are very rare in Spain, and expensive.
Every modification needs to be approved and registered.
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They didnt forget but most of the motorcycle accidents in the Netherlands have got nothing to do with the technical state of the bike. For that reason there was no need for a motorcycle test.
I understand, but we have more rules that don't really have a valid reason for their existence ;)
But I'm happy that we don't have to get our bikes checked every year so I'm not complaining.
Anyway, I didn't do anything to the bike as such today. But I did just order the Matris fork cartridges.
It will take a while before I'll get back with some riding experiences, first priority now is going on a mountainbiking trip in the Italian Alps (and cycling in general usually gets more priority over the Enfield here. Sorry about that ;)).
(https://www.matrisdampers.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/F15K-01.jpg)
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These cartridges replace all of the internals? Just add oil?
I'm interested.
Adding some preload already made a big improvement. As I'm a bit heavier than the average Sahib my fork had way to much sag.
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Oil comes with it, at least at the shop I ordered them ( https://www.racingonelab.com/ )
Springs are supplied regarding your weight/wishes. They have a 6% discount untill the end of this year, the code is on the website.
There are other cartridges ofcourse, Andreani is a well known one but I just had a better feeling about these.
Hydraulic fork cartridge kit that completely replace all the existing fork internals. It allows to modify a conventional non-adjustable fork in a fully-adjustable fork, offering Spring Preload and separate functions of Compression and Rebound asymmetric adjustments, as in a sports fork type, for a greater custom setting. The F15K can be set-up much more accurately for each rider, making the fork more precise, more adjustable, more easier to use … better in every regard.
• Fork cartridge cylinder D.20 mm in Alu alloy, with lapping and oxidation surface treatment.
• Pumping rod D.12 mm in Alu alloy Al 7075, with lapping and hard oxidation surface treatment.
• Set of Compression and Rebound D.20 mm valves, supported by oilless slide bearings, machined from Aluminium billet, with its own dedicated shims stack for a total hydraulic flows control.
• Anti-cavitation valve sets. All internal and external Aluminium components are supplied with anodizing surface treatment.
• The fork kit is fully reversible.
• No modification to the original fork is required for assembly the fork kit and is completely overhauled for a proper and regular maintenance. Fork kit supplied with specific fluid (Motorex Fork Oil).
• Adjustments
Spring preload unit, with specific reference marks.
Rebound unit with specific clicks.
Compression unit with specific clicks.
• Set of linear spring in Si-Cr alloy Steel, available in different rates, specific for the different bike models and the driver weigth, for a total custom.
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Finally received my tank strap and bag from Raw and Rugged.
I'm very impressed with the quality. They also added a tag honoring RE for 120 years of motorcycling.
This may not be for everyone, but I really like it.
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Yes, in Spain there is an "anual" check for vehicles. (ITV)
The first is after 4 years.
After that every 2 years and after the vehicle is 10 years of age, the check is annually.
You get an ugly approval sticker you have to put on the right fork leg.
I have bar end mirrors on my bike and the dealer gave me the original mirrors in a box and told me I had to put them back on for the ITV check.
He told me this also goes for exhausts, led lights etc.
"Always keep the original."
And extras like panniers need to be taken off.
Even the tire size is on the vehicle registration, so I'm not allowed to choose a different tire size.
Same goes for cars.
Because of this, official customized bikes are very rare in Spain, and expensive.
Every modification needs to be approved and registered.
Hey TSTM, I work in a car and motorcycle museum in California on weekends. This Saturday, one of our museum guests was visiting from Spain. We were chatting, and he was amazed by how many modified motorcycles he was seeing on our streets, mirroring what you were saying about how strict your inspections are.
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Because of this, official customized bikes are very rare in Spain, and expensive.
Every modification needs to be approved and registered.
How is it with parts that are CE stamped? There is a EU directive that such parts can be used without individual registration. If that's different in Spain, then Spain doesn't follow EU rules.
Typically cans, mirrors, indicators, levers and lights are CE stamped. They cost more as Alibaba parts, but you should be allowed to mount them.
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How is it with parts that are CE stamped? There is a EU directive that such parts can be used without individual registration. If that's different in Spain, then Spain doesn't follow EU rules.
Typically cans, mirrors, indicators, levers and lights are CE stamped. They cost more as Alibaba parts, but you should be allowed to mount them.
We aren't in the EU any longer in the UK, but I assume these EU standards still apply to products ?!
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How is it with parts that are CE stamped? There is a EU directive that such parts can be used without individual registration. If that's different in Spain, then Spain doesn't follow EU rules.
Typically cans, mirrors, indicators, levers and lights are CE stamped. They cost more as Alibaba parts, but you should be allowed to mount them.
CE means "nothing". It's a French invention and means literally Conformité Européenne.
It's a declaration of conformity. It needs to be on everything sold in the EU. Toys, chocolate and also parts for your motorcycle. It doesn't mean the product is safe, or even tested. It means the manufacturer has described the production method and the materials used. This declaration is self signed.
(means nothing)
But for automotive parts to be approved you need an e or E stamp followed by a number. The number is the number of the country that certified the product.
E-1 means certified by a German authority.
E-4 The Netherlands, etc
Some countries are OK if you use E-x stamped parts for your modifications.
Some countries don't care at all.
But Spain is more strict.
Spain approved the vehicle as a whole and therefore you are not allowed to change a single part.
It's not against EU regulations, it's just a more strict interpretation.
What did you do to your bike today?
Washed my bike. It was under a tree with aphids and had gotten sticky.
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CE means "nothing"...
Thanks for the explanation. I meant the E stamp. I thought we are more harmonized in the EU. Surprise that Germany isn't the worst, at least in this point.
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We aren't in the EU any longer in the UK, but I assume these EU standards still apply to products ?!
Maybe that was a question better addressed before you all voted to leave the EU, lol. Does anyone in old blighty know what the hells going on with Brexit these days?
Phil
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Does anyone in old blighty know what the hells going on with Brexit these days?
Phil
They 've put themselves on an island, so to speak ;)
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In a nutshell, I thought the majority voted to re-establish British sovereignty and to withdraw from European Rule but the politicians continue to enforce it.
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Enforce what?
Please explain.
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TSTM,
"... enforce it [European Rule]."
The Lisbon Treaty is an example of an unpopular agreement.
For the moment I am happy to have relative motorcycling freedom here in France. The future is going to involve more control and limitations. So I had best enjoy my Interceptor while I can... :)
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I have amassed a small collection of Dart flyscreens over the years, most of which were attached to bikes that I've purchased.
Sold the RE screen that came on my bike, and replaced with Dart's brackets, that mount behind the gauges. I think it makes for a cleaner look without the bulky looking RE mount, and I can swap on various Dart screens to see what works best.
Plus, apparently I was doing a wheelie when I got to work this morning.
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Sold the RE screen that came on my bike, and replaced with Dart's brackets, that mount behind the gauges. I think it makes for a cleaner look without the bulky looking RE mount, and I can swap on various Dart screens to see what works best.
I've mounted RE screen with Dart brackets, the best looking combination imo. No need to drill additional holes, but it requires some kind of improvisation. Now it's solid as a rock.
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I've mounted RE screen with Dart brackets, the best looking combination imo. No need to drill additional holes, but it requires some kind of improvisation. Now it's solid as a rock.
That's pretty cool! Since I have a few Dart Classic and Piranha screens, I was able to just buy the Dart brackets and put one of my spare screens to use.
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Since I have no want or need for aftermarket adjustable levers, I decided to polish the stock levers.
If you're thinking, I'll just hit them with some aluminum polish and be done, think again. First you have to strip the clearcoat (easiest with paint stripper). Then the tedious bit which is sanding down all the imperfections in the metal. These levers are actually quite textured. I started with 220 grit sandpaper then moved to 600 and finished it with 1500. From there, polish with paste metal polish.
Easy, but time consuming. Worth it, I think.
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Nice job. I did the same thing with the valve and timing belt covers and forks on my Gold Wing.
Ron in AZ
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Wind noise in your helmet or in GP footage? I use a chestie and ext mic (with dead cat) clipped to backpack pointed down which works quite well as it's out of the wind blast. Tends to record noise from my bike, not others in front but thats to be expected. Here's a ride from last weekend - https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE (https://youtu.be/QgldsyeDNTE)
The sound IS much better. Cool video, might recommend it as a loop for the waiting room of my therapist. ;)
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Since I have no want or need for aftermarket adjustable levers, I decided to polish the stock levers.
If you're thinking, I'll just hit them with some aluminum polish and be done, think again. First you have to strip the clearcoat (easiest with paint stripper). Then the tedious bit which is sanding down all the imperfections in the metal. These levers are actually quite textured. I started with 220 grit sandpaper then moved to 600 and finished it with 1500. From there, polish with paste metal polish.
Easy, but time consuming. Worth it, I think.
I covered mine with shrink tube.
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As it's nearly the end of riding season here in Canada, I took the opportunity to do a couple of mods. Hagon rear shocks and the TEC Stinger 2 into 1 exhaust. I haven't ridden the bike since the changes but I'll ride it tomorrow and will see if I notice much difference. Certainly aesthetically I like the look of the shocks over the stock and although not for everyone, I prefer the 2 into 1 exhaust. The stock ones weighed a ton.
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Nice mods.
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(http://)
I went for a ride with my new National Cycle Low Boy Windshield, it works great and looks great too.
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(http://)
I went for a ride with my new National Cycle Low Boy Windshield, it works great and looks great too.
That is a very nice windshield. Over the years I've become a fan of National Windshields. While yours is new you might consider CERAKOTE® Rapid Ceramic Glass Coat. I did one recently and am really impressed with it.
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(http://)
I went for a ride with my new National Cycle Low Boy Windshield, it works great and looks great too.
Glad you like it, but wow, that windshield is VERTICAL!
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As it's nearly the end of riding season here in Canada, I took the opportunity to do a couple of mods. Hagon rear shocks and the TEC Stinger 2 into 1 exhaust. I haven't ridden the bike since the changes but I'll ride it tomorrow and will see if I notice much difference. Certainly aesthetically I like the look of the shocks over the stock and although not for everyone, I prefer the 2 into 1 exhaust. The stock ones weighed a ton.
Here in Texas, the riding season is really just starting.
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Glad you like it, but wow, that windshield is VERTICAL!
(http://)
It is actually at my chin, so I get some air yet as I wanted. No helmet buffeting and no air on my chest. I haven't had it over 65 mph yet thou. I put on 115 miles yesterday in 50 degree weather, gotta love Wisconsin falls. Electric gloves a must.
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At Jess's recommendation, I added a tire monitor system today. Simple install and worked out of the box. Now to see if I lose any air overnight.
I also added a tank luggage rack. Originally purchased one from Amazon for $30. Got it the other day and the welds were horrendous and the finish felt like 200 grit! Immediately sent it back and ordered the Motone rack. Came today and talk about perfect! Welds are smooth and the chrome is spotless. Well worth the extra money.
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At Jess's recommendation, I added a tire monitor system today. Simple install and worked out of the box. Now to see if I lose any air overnight.
I also added a tank luggage rack. Originally purchased one from Amazon for $30. Got it the other day and the welds were horrendous and the finish felt like 200 grit! Immediately sent it back and ordered the Motone rack. Came today and talk about perfect! Welds are smooth and the chrome is spotless. Well worth the extra money.
Quite a nice, well put together bike.
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That’s a very good job on the rear cowling. I like the rear light set up as well👍
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That’s a very good job on the rear cowling. I like the rear light set up as well👍
Yep, rear light & indicators are really good, match the whole bike vibe perfectly.
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Thanks guys! Stay tuned. I've got plans...
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Baby got new shoe...
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Deathwish,
I say, what a shiny shoe and a high heeled one at that. Someone has found another good use for a 3-D printer, eh? :)
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Baby got new shoe...
Why though? The surface area hasn't changed, it's just taller. Do you park on steep left banked inclines?
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Why though? The surface area hasn't changed, it's just taller. Do you park on steep left banked inclines?
I park on a 1/4" minus driveway or dirt on occasion that is not level. Also the stock kickstand is pretty short for this bike. There is less lean with this "shoe", but still more than enough. This picture is with the shoe installed.
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I park on a 1/4" minus driveway or dirt on occasion that is not level. Also the stock kickstand is pretty short for this bike. There is less lean with this "shoe", but still more than enough. This picture is with the shoe installed.
There is a considerable amount of hand-wringing about how far the 650s lean over on the kickstand. It's unwarranted in my opinion. It leans over a little more than other bikes, but it's nowhere close to being too far.
I live in a historic part of my city and there are some older streets that are severely banked. I park on the left side of one of those steeply banked streets once per week. It always gives me pause, but it's still very stable--even leaned over much more than it usually is. I would honestly worry more about it being too upright than too leaned over.
It looks nicely done though!
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Said it before and say it again, the side stand is good only for the brief time needed to put the bike on its center stand.
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Said it before and say it again, the side stand is good only for the brief time needed to put the bike on its center stand.
In some cases yes and in some cases no, depends on the situation.
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Is a motorcycle not more stable on a side stand than centre stand?
I thought that's because of the diferent sizes of footprint between the contact patches, ie a bigger triangle when using a side stand.
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Said it before and say it again, the side stand is good only for the brief time needed to put the bike on its center stand.
Why though?
It's not like there are numerous posts on forums of peoples bike falling over. In fact, I don't recall any. When I first got my Interceptor I tried to tip it while on the side stand--it didn't budge. Considerable effort would be needed to lift a wheel off the ground.
I'll steer clear of the side stand vs. center stand debate as I think both are perfectly fine for most situations.
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When the bikes are parked in my barn or the RV garage, they are on the center stand and the trickle chargers are plugged in. While on the road, I park them on the kick stand. Either works fine, though I find the bikes are easier to work on and takes up less space when on the center stand. Both are completely stable.
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I think the reason the bikes lean over so far is to simply lower the seat height. It's not a design fault and makes the bike accessible to a much greater range of prospective customers.
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New BT46 rubber and EBC HH brake pads. Ready for summer 8)
(https://i.ibb.co/zR6qcXF/IMG-E1741.jpg)
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Is that a standard size rear tyre?
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Is that a standard size rear tyre?
140/70 and 110/80.
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It certainly looks more substantial than the standard skinny original.
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It’s not really much bigger, just gives me back 8mm of chicken strip
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Just back from a ride to Blinman, Flinders Ranges outback Australia, with the Royal Enfield Club of Australia. 2,500km, motorcycle ran great, now time for an oil change.
Regards Charles
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Just back from a ride to Blinman, Flinders Ranges outback Australia, with the Royal Enfield Club of Australia. 2,500km, motorcycle ran great, now time for an oil change.
Regards Charles
Impressive.
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Just back from a ride to Blinman, Flinders Ranges outback Australia, with the Royal Enfield Club of Australia. 2,500km, motorcycle ran great, now time for an oil change.
Regards Charles
Hope to get a trip report sometime! Highs/lows of trip, any mechanical/comfort issues, that sort of thing.
Goes to show you can make a touring bike from just about anything if you so desire.
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Just back from a ride to Blinman, Flinders Ranges outback Australia, with the Royal Enfield Club of Australia. 2,500km, motorcycle ran great, now time for an oil change.
Regards Charles
Bloody awesome mate 8)
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Sorry fellas, I meant to post in the out and about thread. :-\
But you can see I have undertaken quite a few mods to my Interceptor. I think the 3 best mods in no particular order were putting the risers on the handlebars, putting YSS shocks front and back, and removing the upswept exhausts and replacing with the lower AEW silencers allowing for a variety of larger panniers - I have both Craven (as seen in the pic) and Hepco & Becker (30L Junior) making it easier to carry stuff for long distance riding.
I have 40k km on the motorcycle, just going through major servicing at the moment - replaced the drive sprockets and chain about 5k km ago the front drive sprocket was really chewed out. I need to do my tappets next but I have a full tank, will have to ride another coupla hundred kms so I am not removing a full tank. Getting ready to ride to the Royal Enfield Club of Australia AGM in early November.
Regards Charles
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Today I road-tested the DNA air filter kit on my '22 INT 650. Did about 75 mi in the Ozark twisties.
Results are def positive....smoother power delivery throughout the RPM range, especially from idle. I thought the INT's off-idle fueling was very good to begin with but with the DNA kit I feel that it's pretty much perfect now. It could be the improved power delivery now, or maybe confirmation bias, but my impression is that there is a slight increase in overall power.
For $99 otd, I think it was worth it.
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Thanks to the expertise of member Landisr, installed the 16 tooth sprocket to my 2022 Int650.
Initial test rides seem to show a smoother, less busy engine runup through the gears with a perceived 6% reduction in RPM. Pleased so far.
Ron had previously installed the 16t into his 2022 Int650 so the installation was issue free.
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Lucas p700 today
A bit late, I know! Where are the headlight brackets from. A bit like the original Gold Star brackets.
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Thanks to the expertise of member Landisr, installed the 16 tooth sprocket to my 2022 Int650.
Initial test rides seem to show a smoother, less busy engine runup through the gears with a perceived 6% reduction in RPM. Pleased so far.
Ron had previously installed the 16t into his 2022 Int650 so the installation was issue free.
This might be on my todo list. How's the gearing effect you acceleration?
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This might be on my todo list. How's the gearing effect you acceleration?
Very early impression says no reduction although there had to be some. There was a slight different clutch lever feel when starting off. Just needed a slight bit more throttle to get moving, but no change once rolling.
Ron tends to accelerate faster than I do so out on the highway I play catchup, and he has had the 16t for over a year. Will get out for some highway miles in the morning for a better feel and will reply if anything unique shows up. One thing we noticed, at indicated 60 mph the tach was showing ~3600 rpm.
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Very early impression says no reduction although there had to be some. There was a slight different clutch lever feel when starting off. Just needed a slight bit more throttle to get moving, but no change once rolling.
Ron tends to accelerate faster than I do so out on the highway I play catchup, and he has had the 16t for over a year. Will get out for some highway miles in the morning for a better feel and will reply if anything unique shows up. One thing we noticed, at indicated 60 mph the tach was showing ~3600 rpm.
Considering that I am constantly trying to shift into 7th gear, I reckon I should move this up on my list. Will be interested to hear your impressions after you get a few more miles on it.
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Considering that I am constantly trying to shift into 7th gear, I reckon I should move this up on my list. Will be interested to hear your impressions after you get a few more miles on it.
Def reduces that impulse. Highly recommended if you trip out of town..
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Very early impression says no reduction although there had to be some. There was a slight different clutch lever feel when starting off. Just needed a slight bit more throttle to get moving, but no change once rolling.
Ron tends to accelerate faster than I do so out on the highway I play catchup, and he has had the 16t for over a year. Will get out for some highway miles in the morning for a better feel and will reply if anything unique shows up. One thing we noticed, at indicated 60 mph the tach was showing ~3600 rpm.
Well, some of us riders in the broad Phoenix area are talking a breakfast ride to the Ranch House in Yarnell. Should be in the next couple weeks and you are very welcome to join in. Will keep in touch if interested.
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Well, some of us riders in the broad Phoenix area are talking a breakfast ride to the Ranch House in Yarnell. Should be in the next couple weeks and you are very welcome to join in. Will keep in touch if interested.
Most definitely interested! Looking forward to meeting you and Ron.
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What did I do with my Interceptor? Took it to test ride the new Livewire Del Mar electric bike. I'm not about to trade a $5K motorcycle for a $15K electric motorcycle, but I'll test ride anything for free, and they had been barraging me with emails.
The previous weekend, I stopped at The Bike Shed in downtown L.A. on the way to work for a cup of coffee and to check out their "Italian Bike Day", parking my Honda in a sea of Ducatis. At least my CB1100 is red, so it sort of blended in. Livewire was offering demo rides, so I took their $30K Livewire One for a spin through downtown. Very nice, but I've never spent that much on a car, let alone a motorcycle. I had to get to work, so I didn't take the Del Mar for a spin that day.
They were doing test rides nearer my home in Orange County this weekend as part of a big biker event on the beach, so I went to try the Del Mar. $15 to park at a state beach, and a 30 minute wait to get into the lot? Not for this cheapskate! There was a free parking lot within walking distance, and some other like-minded riders had crammed their bikes into some of the available curb space and hoofed it to the event. Great idea.
If an electric motorcycle can feel light, the Del Mar felt lighter and more approachable than the One. More comfy too, with more of an upright, standard seating position, where the One was more stretched out and had my back complaining after twenty minutes. In a perfect world, the Del Mar would be great for my M-F commute, and planned luggage options would make it practical. But, not ready for that much of an investment.
After enjoying the ride, a biker approached me and said "Hey bud, is that your orange Enfield parked across the street? The cops are coming, and they're gonna ticket all the bikes that didn't pay to get in!" He and I fast-walked back to where we had parked. He knew the bike was mine, as he had parked his Indian behind me. He had a dog with him, and it didn't quite make sense until I saw that Maya had her own seat on the bike. Very nice. We scooted before the cops got to us. Perfect Day!
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I changed the brake fluid on the rear and the front brake. The rear brake didnt really improve but adjustment of the rod made the pedal sit higher. The front brake improved a lot and that was good before in my view. Sintered pads would help to improve the rear brake but I hardly use it.
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What did I do with my Interceptor? Took it to test ride the new Livewire Del Mar electric bike. I'm not about to trade a $5K motorcycle for a $15K electric motorcycle, but I'll test ride anything for free, and they had been barraging me with emails.
The previous weekend, I stopped at The Bike Shed in downtown L.A. on the way to work for a cup of coffee and to check out their "Italian Bike Day", parking my Honda in a sea of Ducatis. At least my CB1100 is red, so it sort of blended in. Livewire was offering demo rides, so I took their $30K Livewire One for a spin through downtown. Very nice, but I've never spent that much on a car, let alone a motorcycle. I had to get to work, so I didn't take the Del Mar for a spin that day.
They were doing test rides nearer my home in Orange County this weekend as part of a big biker event on the beach, so I went to try the Del Mar. $15 to park at a state beach, and a 30 minute wait to get into the lot? Not for this cheapskate! There was a free parking lot within walking distance, and some other like-minded riders had crammed their bikes into some of the available curb space and hoofed it to the event. Great idea.
If an electric motorcycle can feel light, the Del Mar felt lighter and more approachable than the One. More comfy too, with more of an upright, standard seating position, where the One was more stretched out and had my back complaining after twenty minutes. In a perfect world, the Del Mar would be great for my M-F commute, and planned luggage options would make it practical. But, not ready for that much of an investment.
After enjoying the ride, a biker approached me and said "Hey bud, is that your orange Enfield parked across the street? The cops are coming, and they're gonna ticket all the bikes that didn't pay to get in!" He and I fast-walked back to where we had parked. He knew the bike was mine, as he had parked his Indian behind me. He had a dog with him, and it didn't quite make sense until I saw that Maya had her own seat on the bike. Very nice. We scooted before the cops got to us. Perfect Day!
Thanks for the write-up; that Indian dog carrier setup is superb. The most famous pet animal/motorcycle combo in these parts was a cat named Rastus and his owner Max Corkill that used to travel the country. Sadly both killed by some drunk driver..
(https://canterburystories.nz/sites/default/files/2019-10/4701-Service%20File.jpg)
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I changed the brake fluid on the rear and the front brake. The rear brake didnt really improve but adjustment of the rod made the pedal sit higher. The front brake improved a lot and that was good before in my view. Sintered pads would help to improve the rear brake but I hardly use it.
No, but you might need to one day! Just saying.
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Thanks for the write-up; that Indian dog carrier setup is superb. The most famous pet animal/motorcycle combo in these parts was a cat named Rastus and his owner Max Corkill that used to travel the country. Sadly both killed by some drunk driver..
That is very sad! He's long gone now, but there used to be a guy in Santa Monica who rode around town on a very old BMW in a top hat, with an old dog who draped himself over the gas tank. He was always a fun sight around town.
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No, but you might need to one day! Just saying.
If you can get the abs to work it is good enough.
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Picked up my new Continental yesterday. Started with trimming away the factory razorblades. They could do with some flushcuts at the RE factory.
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Congrats and welcome !
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Picked up my new Continental yesterday. Started with trimming away the factory razorblades. They could do with some flushcuts at the RE factory.
That's the Royal Enfield anti-theft system. Now you've gone and disabled it.
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I'll ask: what are factory razorblades?
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I'll ask: what are factory razorblades?
Second that question
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Second that question
zip ties that weren't cut short enough.
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Ah soh! Thanks. ;-)
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It was a sad day as I winterized the GT650. I filled up the tank and add some stabilizer and plugged in the trickle charger. Snow is in the forecast for tomorrow. In Calgary riding in the winter, even on the odd warm day, isn’t really an option as my back lane from the garage ices over. However I did have a great last ride of the season yesterday and I look forward to May 2024 when I can get the motorcycle out again. In the meantime, I’ll work on my Honda CB350f restoration project over Winter.
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Installed Motone bar risers on my '22 INT today. No cable rerouting.
I learned something during the install: The job is much easier when the small handlebar cross bar is out of the way. Otherwise, getting a decent purchase on the top 6mm clamp bolts is nearly impossible using a typical hex socket. With the cross bar swung out of the way, mine still needed a pretty good yank with a 1/2" drive ratchet to crack loose.
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It was a sad day as I winterized the GT650. I filled up the tank and add some stabilizer and plugged in the trickle charger. Snow is in the forecast for tomorrow. In Calgary riding in the winter, even on the odd warm day, isn’t really an option as my back lane from the garage ices over. However I did have a great last ride of the season yesterday and I look forward to May 2024 when I can get the motorcycle out again. In the meantime, I’ll work on my Honda CB350f restoration project over Winter.
My god that would drive me insane!!!! suppose, its all what you are used to
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Well, not "to" my bike, but I did pick up a new buddy for the Interceptor today. 2022 Himalayan with 360 miles on it. Hoping if I leave them out in the garage together in the dark, I'll open the door to a couple brand new 350s someday ;)
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Considering that I am constantly trying to shift into 7th gear, I reckon I should move this up on my list. Will be interested to hear your impressions after you get a few more miles on it.
1st update: Looped around the Phoenix AZ area on the 101 freeway, Tempe to Peoria to Tempe for 105.2 miles. Just filled up, 1.70 gallons of 87 octane at $4.249 per gallon for 61.9 mpg at $0.069 per mile. No complaints.
Longer rides are in the discussion stage now that the temps are dropping into the 90s range. Will continue to report.
FWIW, when I started riding back in 1996 with a 1995 Honda VT1100 Shadow I figured I could afford motorcycling if I could achieve at least 40 mpg at a cost no higher than 10 cents a mile. I pushed these figures with my Harley '07 Dyna and '16 Sportster but I'm now safely back within goal.
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I think I sold an Interceptor yesterday, or got someone in trouble, not sure which.
When I come home from work, the "Dog Brigade" is out, all of the other people who just got home from work, and are out walking their house-bound dogs. I wave at, and get waved at by the neighbors I know, or at least the people I see each day, to whom I'm "The guy who goes by on a motorcycle".
Yesterday, got a wave from a guy I didn't recognize. Still, gave a friendly wave back. Turned onto my cul-de-sac and into my garage. As I was taking my gear off, the guy walked past my garage with his wife and dog, and said "I know you have a couple of bikes, but man, I love that orange one!" I invited him into the garage to check out my Interceptor. As he was perusing, I said "You should get one if you like it so much. It's probably one of the cheapest bikes out there for what it can do. Heck, there are probably three of them for sale on Facebook in the area for around five grand right now."
As his face lit up and he said "Really? Had a bike a while back, but sold it", His wife's face turned very sour...
Hope the rest of his evening went well.
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...
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...
Gone in 60,
what a lovely little feelgood story, thanks. :)
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Installed Motone bar risers on my '22 INT today. No cable rerouting.
I learned something during the install: The job is much easier when the small handlebar cross bar is out of the way. Otherwise, getting a decent purchase on the top 6mm clamp bolts is nearly impossible using a typical hex socket. With the cross bar swung out of the way, mine still needed a pretty good yank with a 1/2" drive ratchet to crack loose.
Test them on full lock too. On mine the clutchcable was tight. I upgraded the throttle cable and the clutchcable.
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new boots 🥾 line vintage
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Test them on full lock too. On mine the clutchcable was tight. I upgraded the throttle cable and the clutchcable.
Yep, that's the first thing I did. No cable issues at all. Happy that it saved me some extra work. :)
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I think I sold an Interceptor yesterday, or got someone in trouble, not sure which.
When I come home from work, the "Dog Brigade" is out, all of the other people who just got home from work, and are out walking their house-bound dogs. I wave at, and get waved at by the neighbors I know, or at least the people I see each day, to whom I'm "The guy who goes by on a motorcycle".
Yesterday, got a wave from a guy I didn't recognize. Still, gave a friendly wave back. Turned onto my cul-de-sac and into my garage. As I was taking my gear off, the guy walked past my garage with his wife and dog, and said "I know you have a couple of bikes, but man, I love that orange one!" I invited him into the garage to check out my Interceptor. As he was perusing, I said "You should get one if you like it so much. It's probably one of the cheapest bikes out there for what it can do. Heck, there are probably three of them for sale on Facebook in the area for around five grand right now."
As his face lit up and he said "Really? Had a bike a while back, but sold it", His wife's face turned very sour...
Hope the rest of his evening went well.
I had a neighbor several years back that was riding an older Yamaha Venture, he said he wanted to buy a new bike, but he said his wife would be annoyed. I told him to buy it, his wife will be mad for a week, but he will have the bike for years. He did, she was, but they are still married and he still has the bike.
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As painful as it is, I put it up for sale.
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Fitted a fuelx pro kit from hitchcocks. What a fiddly job.
Dunno if it's wishful thinking but my 2023 Interceptor feels a little bit more urgent when accelerating. :)
Wonder if the ABS and engine warning lights will eventually go back out again - ridden about 20 minutes so far.
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Fitted a fuelx pro kit from hitchcocks. What a fiddly job.
Dunno if it's wishful thinking but my 2023 Interceptor feels a little bit more urgent when accelerating. :)
Wonder if the ABS and engine warning lights will eventually go back out again - ridden about 20 minutes so far.
Don’t know for sure but I think you need to manually clear the codes.
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JessHerbst,
thanks for the suggestion. You may well be right because, after a 2 hour/ 100 kilometer ride today, both the engine and brake warnings remained active. :(
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I had a neighbor several years back that was riding an older Yamaha Venture, he said he wanted to buy a new bike, but he said his wife would be annoyed. I told him to buy it, his wife will be mad for a week, but he will have the bike for years. He did, she was, but they are still married and he still has the bike.
I have two friends who tried that tactic.
Friend #1 bought a Trans Am in 2002 when it was apparent that this would be the last year the car was produced. His wife hated the idea of trading their comfortable pickup truck that they took enjoyable camping trips with together, for a black and gold "pimpmobile" as she called it. His reply was "It's my money, I'll buy what I want."
The Trans Am spent its first six months parked in my garage, so that she would not be able to do nasty things to it.
This couple is no longer together.
Friend #2 bought an aged Porsche 911 when they were still affordable. He mostly gutted it and turned it into a racecar. His wife hated the idea of losing her garage spot and having Porsche detritus littering the garage. His reply was "These will be worth money some day." He was mostly correct. This couple is still together, but the Porsche remains "The thing in the garage that we don't discuss".
So, fifty-fifty on that tactic as far as buying the toy and maintaining a relationship.
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Got a pair of new tires today, Michelin Road Classic.
The Ceats had this hard to describe uneasy feeling above 100kmh/60mph.
At lower speed they seemed OK, but with the Michelins I also noticed a more steady behaviour in corners on country roads.
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Just installed the RE luggage rack with the backrest.
Wanted the backrest so I could mount my T-Bag. The bag is adequate for any day trips or even an overnighter and I've used one for years on various bikes. Also wanted the ability to remove the backrest to gain a level (reasonably so) area to strap down my touring bag. So far, I am pleased.
Also recently changed the front sprocket from a 15 tooth to a 16t. Impressed so far, couple hundred miles but have a couple longer rides under consideration. Will report back once I have some stats on mileage.
Awaiting a windshield.
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Not today, got stock Pirellis replaced with Bridgestone BT46's last week and took first test ride yesterday. What an improvement.
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Just installed the RE luggage rack with the backrest.
Wanted the backrest so I could mount my T-Bag. The bag is adequate for any day trips or even an overnighter and I've used one for years on various bikes. Also wanted the ability to remove the backrest to gain a level (reasonably so) area to strap down my touring bag. So far, I am pleased.
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What.. no pics? 8)
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I just went for a ride today, 41 miles only, but it was 36 degrees, I had my electric gloves up to medium. 1857 miles on the RE 650 INT since buying it on Sept 29th, ZERO problems, great bike so far.
(http://)
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What.. no pics? 8)
Ask and thou shall receive.
Wanted the luggage rack with a removable backrest for use with and without the roll tailbag. I have travel luggage that will lie reasonably flat on the pillion and rack, providing the backrest is removed.
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I installed the Tec adjustable footpegs and levers today. After some adjustments, I'm liking the new foot position. I used the 40 mm extensions.
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Put on 1" bar risers, and removed the handlebar brace. probably saved 1.5 pounds which was not the reason.
The real reason is that brace is thin and hard to clamp things to. And I don't think a dirt bike handlebar brace from 60 years ago looks good on this bike.
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I installed the Tec adjustable footpegs and levers today. After some adjustments, I'm liking the new foot position. I used the 40 mm extensions.
Don't like that gearchange linkage. I think I'd rotate the part attached to the gearchange shaft about 45 degrees clockwise and lengthen the rod a bit to get better leverage, assuming there's room to do so.
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Don't like that gearchange linkage. I think I'd rotate the part attached to the gearchange shaft about 45 degrees clockwise and lengthen the rod a bit to get better leverage, assuming there's room to do so.
Not that much different than a stock Interceptor.
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Not that much different than a stock Interceptor.
Is it? I have a GT so don't know. But if so, the same applies to the standard Interceptor linkage.
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Before and after picture.
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I see two angles of 90°, not much to improve.
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I see two angles of 90°, not much to improve.
Top angle is 90, lower angle is about 135, but never mind.
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Before and after picture.
Thanks for that/those.
Ron
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At AbueloBill and Landisr's suggestion, I installed the 16 tooth front sprocket. Easy job, took about 45 minutes. Can't wait to get it out on the highway.
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I'm pretty sure you'll like it.
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At AbueloBill and Landisr's suggestion, I installed the 16 tooth front sprocket. Easy job, took about 45 minutes. Can't wait to get it out on the highway.
Since you opted for the change, I think you will not be disappointed. Acceleration is not impaired since the bike has gears and the lowering of the rpms at highway speeds is really sweet IMHO. Seems like I get more use out of the gearbox, but I guess that is an individual thing. Good luck.
Best,
Kranis
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Tried out the Emgo (?) unmarked copy of the Lucas L679 "beehive" tail light (as sold by Hitchcock), the idea being to make the bike more like the 60' originals. However, it sucks. It isn't exactly poorly made (it has a small metal reflector/screen which is more than most vintage tail light), but the The Emgo glass is just a copy, not a design. The glass is also a lens and it lacks precision both in the lens itself (uneven) and in the placement of the filaments. I had a real session with it though and learned a lot. Now leaning towards the Honda tail light as used on the Indian Bullets (which is made by Uno Minda). Again, the original (expensive) is nothing like the copies and the Uno Minda is not homologated. Not entirely comfortable with it though, even if the Stanley tail lights are really old-school and period appropriate.
Kranis
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Tried out the Emgo (?) unmarked copy of the Lucas L679 "beehive" tail light (as sold by Hitchcock), the idea being to make the bike more like the 60' originals. However, it sucks. It isn't exactly poorly made (it has a small metal reflector/screen which is more than most vintage tail light), but the The Emgo glass is just a copy, not a design. The glass is also a lens and it lacks precision both in the lens itself (uneven) and in the placement of the filaments. I had a real session with it though and learned a lot. Now leaning towards the Honda tail light as used on the Indian Bullets (which is made by Uno Minda). Again, the original (expensive) is nothing like the copies and the Uno Minda is not homologated. Not entirely comfortable with it though, even if the Stanley tail lights are really old-school and period appropriate.
Kranis
https://www.omega-kraftrad.de/product/omega-kraftrad-interceptor-continental-ruecklicht-mit-kennzeichenhalter-fuer-royal-enfield-650/
I have that, looks pretty good and is well made
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https://www.omega-kraftrad.de/product/omega-kraftrad-interceptor-continental-ruecklicht-mit-kennzeichenhalter-fuer-royal-enfield-650/
I have that, looks pretty good and is well made
I can't get past the popup screen. Possibly talks about cookies but I don't know what I would be clicking on..
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I can't get past the popup screen. Possibly talks about cookies but I don't know what I would be clicking on..
Even after translating to English, I chose to click away. I despise websites that force you to agree to their spying technics!
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Be careful when driving in the proximity of 5G antennas...
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Even after translating to English, I chose to click away. I despise websites that force you to agree to their spying technics!
All commercial websites ask you if they can store cookies on your device.
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All commercial websites ask you if they can store cookies on your device.
A massive irritation imposed by the EU. Germany I love you, but damn!
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A massive irritation imposed by the EU. Germany I love you, but damn!
What do you mean? They did it before but just never asked permission..
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All commercial websites ask you if they can store cookies on your device.
But many allow you to opt out and still access the website. Those sites that do not won't get my business. I do not see any reason a website in Germany needs to track my IP address, Operating System, Computer name and other sites I visit, all just to resell that information to some unknown third party. But your opinion may vary and I'm totally okay with that.
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Je hebt de klok horen luiden maar je weet niet waar de klepel hangt
Don't know if there is a good translation for this.
It is a website where you can buy a taillight.
Lighten up.
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But many allow you to opt out and still access the website. Those sites that do not won't get my business. I do not see any reason a website in Germany needs to track my IP address, Operating System, Computer name and other sites I visit, all just to resell that information to some unknown third party. But your opinion may vary and I'm totally okay with that.
Burn your computer then, and every other appliance that connects to the internet. You’re starting to sound like Hihihi
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Tried out the Emgo (?) unmarked copy of the Lucas L679 "beehive" tail light (as sold by Hitchcock), the idea being to make the bike more like the 60' originals. However, it sucks. It isn't exactly poorly made (it has a small metal reflector/screen which is more than most vintage tail light), but the The Emgo glass is just a copy, not a design. The glass is also a lens and it lacks precision both in the lens itself (uneven) and in the placement of the filaments. I had a real session with it though and learned a lot. Now leaning towards the Honda tail light as used on the Indian Bullets (which is made by Uno Minda). Again, the original (expensive) is nothing like the copies and the Uno Minda is not homologated. Not entirely comfortable with it though, even if the Stanley tail lights are really old-school and period appropriate.
Kranis
Just got back from a ride with the new sprocket and I am very happy with it. Comfortable at 80 mph on the highway and no longer reaching for 7th gear. On a couple of occasions I was surprised to find myself still in fifth. Middle gears are much more usable now.
Big thumbs up.
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;) 8)
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I have that, looks pretty good and is well made
Thank you very much for the tip. This particular version did not turn up in my google spree in spite of the fact that I have a black belt in multilingual googling. I am glad to see that you have chosen the only reasonable Lucas 525 style option that I have found so far, since it has a proper internal reflector to help light output. The light itself (Moto-lux from Dutch giant distributor MCS) is about €20 if you can find it, but it is often bundled with a bracket to fit Harley-Davidson for a price around €60. In addition, MCS seems to be switching the lens in favour of a more 525-like pattern, but still ECE.
Me? I am still on the fence. I want something “idiomatic” for the bike, which prohibits multi-led solutions. I also want a healthy light output (which needs an internal reflector or a single cob led) and ECE marking. Your suggestion fits the bill perfectly, so I have bookmarked it. Still looking into the Honda light though since I have been able to find a source for the E-marked Stanley version (HM-15RC) as used on the Honda Cub 90. It’s about €65 but will need modification of the bracket. I can see this is going to be a long winter sitting on a fence…
/Kranis
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Just got back from a ride with the new sprocket and I am very happy with it. Comfortable at 80 mph on the highway and no longer reaching for 7th gear. On a couple of occasions I was surprised to find myself still in fifth. Middle gears are much more usable now.
Big thumbs up.
My thoughts exactly after my first (and second and third) ride. Glad it turned out to your liking.
Best,
/Kranis
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Je hebt de klok horen luiden maar je weet niet waar de klepel hangt
Don't know if there is a good translation for this.
It is a website where you can buy a taillight.
Lighten up.
I think this is the gist of this saying is: You have the right general idea, but you are otherwise clueless (He can hear the door bell, but he does not know where the clapper hangs). Ouch.
And no, it does not translate particularily well into English.
/Kranis
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A massive irritation imposed by the EU. Germany I love you, but damn!
[OT]Please don’t. The ”inconvenience” is all across EU, not just Germany, and was a response to the US government practice of spying on their own population. You probably have no idea of how much protection the individual has against the state here.
To take an extreme example - Sweden - doing your taxes is more or less automatic since the government already have all your available data. However, for the state to USE that data for anything other than its intended purpose is more or less impossible.
During the pandemic, Sweden stood out by not having lockdowns. All of the debate focussed on the medical arguments, since most of the world is unaware of the Swedish ”constitutional” laws (we don’t have a constitution). It turns out that the law provides us with such protection against state intervention that lockdowns for the level of Covid that we had would likely have been unlawful since the Swedish state cannot restrict the travel of healthy individuals lest there is something worse than what we had.
So, protecting people against the use of personal data in way that they have not explicitly agreed on is a big thing over here. [/OT]
/Kranis
PS. If Swedish Covid response for some reason is anybody’s pet peeve, I suggest venting somewhere else. Note that I am not saying anything about the medical assessment here only that in a state with BIG government, protection of the individual can still be very strong. It’s oxymoronic, but nevertheless it’s true. The key for it to work is mutual trust, I think.
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Installed the Givi windshield from Hitchcock (#200317) and, in anticipation of winter, put the windblock liner into my mesh jacket.
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[OT]Please don’t. The ”inconvenience” is all across EU, not just Germany, and was a response to the US government practice of spying on their own population. You probably have no idea of how much protection the individual has against the state here.
To take an extreme example - Sweden - doing your taxes is more or less automatic since the government already have all your available data. However, for the state to USE that data for anything other than its intended purpose is more or less impossible.
During the pandemic, Sweden stood out by not having lockdowns. All of the debate focussed on the medical arguments, since most of the world is unaware of the Swedish ”constitutional” laws (we don’t have a constitution). It turns out that the law provides us with such protection against state intervention that lockdowns for the level of Covid that we had would likely have been unlawful since the Swedish state cannot restrict the travel of healthy individuals lest there is something worse than what we had.
So, protecting people against the use of personal data in way that they have not explicitly agreed on is a big thing over here. [/OT]
/Kranis
PS. If Swedish Covid response for some reason is anybody’s pet peeve, I suggest venting somewhere else. Note that I am not saying anything about the medical assessment here only that in a state with BIG government, protection of the individual can still be very strong. It’s oxymoronic, but nevertheless it’s true. The key for it to work is mutual trust, I think.
You can easily block cookies on any browser, you cannot easily block the annoying banners that tell you that the site uses cookies, which most sites use.
Cookies are simply variables used by the HTML code to operate. Yes some abuse them, but they are not spy elements on their own, just a programming variables.
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You can easily block cookies on any browser, you cannot easily block the annoying banners that tell you that the site uses cookies, which most sites use.
Cookies are simply variables used by the HTML code to operate. Yes some abuse them, but they are not spy elements on their own, just a programming variables.
As someone who not only hates SPAM, but has had to deal with identity theft, I am hesitant to knowingly allow the dissemination of my information to unknown entities. I am fully aware that it still happens, but I do what I can to not contribute to the process.
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As someone who not only hates SPAM, but has had to deal with identity theft, I am hesitant to knowingly allow the dissemination of my information to unknown entities. I am fully aware that it still happens, but I do what I can to not contribute to the process.
You do realize that the main purpose of cookies is to keep track of viewer selections, right? i.e. did viewer add an item to the cart? Did they search for something? Did they apply filters?
These are 99% of what cookies store, yet we all now have to look at large obnoxious banners every time we visit a site. And it does nothing at all to protect your identity. It does not stop bad actors or even slow them down, it just makes it harder for the rest of us.
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You do realize that the main purpose of cookies is to keep track of viewer selections, right? i.e. did viewer add an item to the cart? Did they search for something? Did they apply filters?
These are 99% of what cookies store, yet we all now have to look at large obnoxious banners every time we visit a site. And it does nothing at all to protect your identity. It does not stop bad actors or even slow them down, it just makes it harder for the rest of us.
I am quite aware of the intended function of cookies. I worked in IT for over 38 years. I find most websites are able to keep track of my additions to a shopping cart without dropping numerous cookies, and can clean up after themselves if coded properly. I used to build and maintain websites with online commerce as a sideline years ago (read Frontpage, Perl and Java days). Forgotten the majority of what I used to know, but still know a bit. Rapidly trying to forget it all. :)
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I worked in IT for over 38 years.
Me too. But MVS, z/OS, Unix, or whatever you worked on, has nothing to do with modern techniques, you may have missed some points over the years. As Jess said, cookies are just working storage. Btw, we are going offtopic again.
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Installed the Givi windshield from Hitchcock (#200317) and, in anticipation of winter, put the windblock liner into my mesh jacket.
Very nice, Grandpa. Looks very appropriately sized and a clean install. Here, the final weeks of the season just rained away and it's only the yearly service left to do before winter (loud jealous sulk).
/Kranis
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Just installed the Ohlins rear shocks today. Made about ten trips up and down my favorite stretch with my two least favorite cattle guards, making adjustments after each pass. Feel that I have them dialed in fairly decent for now. The one cattle guard that seriously hurt to hit at 40 mph and had me standing on the pegs is now just a good bump at 60 mph. Drastic improvement, and I'm sure with time, I can get them adjusted even better. Sure does make the mediocre front end more obvious though.
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Me too. But MVS, z/OS, Unix, or whatever you worked on, has nothing to do with modern techniques, you may have missed some points over the years. As Jess said, cookies are just working storage. Btw, we are going offtopic again.
I retired a year and a half ago. Well versed in Windows 11 and modern PCs/Macs, so my IT experience started with Teletypes, PDP's, current loop, octal and hex programming and ended with today's technology. A degree in Electronics from DeVry got me started. It was a wild ride, but can't say that I miss it. ;D
Interesting reading discussing the difference between necessary and unnecessary cookies.
https://www.cookielawinfo.com/what-information-is-stored-in-cookies/ (https://www.cookielawinfo.com/what-information-is-stored-in-cookies/)
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Just installed the Ohlins rear shocks today. Made about ten trips up and down my favorite stretch with my two least favorite cattle guards, making adjustments after each pass. Feel that I have them dialed in fairly decent for now. The one cattle guard that seriously hurt to hit at 40 mph and had me standing on the pegs is now just a good bump at 60 mph. Drastic improvement, and I'm sure with time, I can get them adjusted even better. Sure does make the mediocre front end more obvious though.
Noice. Are they length adjustable?
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Noice. Are they length adjustable?
-2mm/+8mm. I went the +8mm route.
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Just installed the Ohlins rear shocks today. Made about ten trips up and down my favorite stretch with my two least favorite cattle guards, making adjustments after each pass. Feel that I have them dialed in fairly decent for now. The one cattle guard that seriously hurt to hit at 40 mph and had me standing on the pegs is now just a good bump at 60 mph. Drastic improvement, and I'm sure with time, I can get them adjusted even better. Sure does make the mediocre front end more obvious though.
Is that a compression damping adjustment screw at the top? I assume the rebound adjustment is on the bottom, but not sure because I only have experience with piggyback shocks.
EDIT: NVM, I looked them up. Rebound adjustment only. They do look like really nice units though!
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Is that a compression damping adjustment screw at the top? I assume the rebound adjustment is on the bottom, but not sure because I only have experience with piggyback shocks.
EDIT: NVM, I looked them up. Rebound adjustment only. They do look like really nice units though!
No. Only the units with a remote cylinder have the separate compression adjustment. :(
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Those Ohlins look suspiciously identical to the YSS ones I bought. Are they a rebadge?
If so, go with YSS if you prefer black anodizing, Ohlins if you prefer clear.
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Those Ohlins look suspiciously identical to the YSS ones I bought. Are they a rebadge?
If so, go with YSS if you prefer black anodizing, Ohlins if you prefer clear.
No, not a rebadge ::) You get what you pay for. I'm impressed at the quality of the build and the ride.
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Not "to the bike" but for the bike. I picked up the new Royal Enfield Nirvik riding jacket. Comes with shoulder, elbow and back protection, a nice warm zip in liner AND a rain jacket that stores in a pouch on the back. Feels good and can't wait to try it out in some chillier climes.
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Deathwish,
nice. I like the colour. Suits you. Odd idea, that rain jacket. :)
Thanks for sharing!
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Lookin' sharp.
Hope you don't need the rainjacket though 8)
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Fitted AEW low level peashooters because I like that look, besides, they give a little more pannier/ side bag room.
Surprised how much I prefer their rough and rude ruckus over the sewing machine sound. :)
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Suits the bike.
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Not "to the bike" but for the bike. I picked up the new Royal Enfield Nirvik riding jacket. Comes with shoulder, elbow and back protection, a nice warm zip in liner AND a rain jacket that stores in a pouch on the back. Feels good and can't wait to try it out in some chillier climes.
Looks good. Hopefully the rain jacket will actually be waterproof ,which these 'waterproof' and breathable motorcycle jackets and trousers are not in my experience !
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took it to the dealership again to find out why it won't run
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took it to the dealership again to find out why it won't run
That's sad...
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Fitted AEW low level peashooters because I like that look, besides, they give a little more pannier/ side bag room.
Surprised how much I prefer their rough and rude ruckus over the sewing machine sound. :)
Not my favorite, but somehow it suits the bike.
Maybe a little video with sound ?
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TSTM,
I have a little video clip, just under 25 MB and in MOV format.
Question is, how to attach that to my comment?
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TSTM,
I shortened a video clip and compressed it to a ZIP format, fingers crossed... :)
edit: oh dear! unlike photos that one can view just one click away, and although the zip file appears to work just fine, it first wants to be downloaded before viewing it on your device, sorry :(
edit 2: added another zip file of my bike the way it sounded before, ie with original stock silencers
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Thanks, managed to view and listen to that.
That's a very modest sound, I could live with that.
I was prepared for some kind of machine gun ;D
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TSTM,
yeah, I'm surpised by the sound that my camera heard because from my point of view/ listen, it's rather more noisy. Makes me ride gently near houses and through built up areas. :)
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Maybe there is some kind of leveling software on your phone.
Tightened my headset bearings a bit today.
Had to do it without the help of my torque wrench because the batteries were dead.
Thumbs up for old fashioned mechanical stuff.
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Maybe there is some kind of leveling software on your phone.
Tightened my headset bearings a bit today.
Had to do it without the help of my torque wrench because the batteries were dead.
Thumbs up for old fashioned mechanical stuff.
The db levels reached by an exhaust system far exceed the ability of any phone, tablet or desktop computer. So you aren’t going to hear the loudness on a recorded playback.
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Moved my bike into my home office for the winter. First time. Brilliant idea according to me. The Gaze of Disapproval from the wife and the Gaze of Disbelief from the son. Luckily, none of them have a say when it comes to my den due to prior mutual agreements (that did not come cheap since I essentially bought them off). Hence, the looks.
Best,
Kranis
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Moved my bike into my home office for the winter. First time. Brilliant idea according to me. The Gaze of Disapproval from the wife and the Gaze of Disbelief from the son. Luckily, none of them have a say when it comes to my den due to prior mutual agreements (that did not come cheap since I essentially bought them off). Hence, the looks.
Best,
Kranis
When i bought my house it did not have a enclosed garage so i had my Ducati (1969) in the lounge room, it took about 6yrs till a garage was built in my backyard and in that time the bike stayed in the house, during that time i dated 2 ladies and both of them said as soon as they saw the bike said 'shouldn't that be outside', nope.
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The db levels reached by an exhaust system far exceed the ability of any phone, tablet or desktop computer. So you aren’t going to hear the loudness on a recorded playback.
Did you see the movie?
A HD with open pipes produces 100dB at 1m, but "only" 80dB at 10m.
As hihihi drives by his phone at about 10m I'm sure his phone is not overwhelmed by the noise.
Never mind, I think the sound is OK
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I do have a shed, but if not, a corner of the house would just have to do! No arguments. Beats lookin at the tv. Went to the GP at the island when younger, we parked 10 bikes in the lounge drank beer and looked at em and talked bikes. Good times!
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Headlight bulb replacement for ultra white light, 🖖
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When i bought my house it did not have a enclosed garage so i had my Ducati (1969) in the lounge room, it took about 6yrs till a garage was built in my backyard and in that time the bike stayed in the house, during that time i dated 2 ladies and both of them said as soon as they saw the bike said 'shouldn't that be outside', nope.
Did they stick around long ?! ;D
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Traded it on a Bonneville T120.
After riding the T120, it really made the Interceptor feel quite flimsy and cheap--which I suppose it is, but I wasn't expecting such a night/day difference.
So long, and thanks for all the fish.
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Traded it on a Bonneville T120.
After riding the T120, it really made the Interceptor feel quite flimsy and cheap--which I suppose it is, but I wasn't expecting such a night/day difference.
So long, and thanks for all the fish.
See ya. Best luck. Ride safely.
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Don't tell anyone, bit I have been looking at a 60th anniversary Bonnie.....just looking. Doing renovations on the house next year so money will be tight😕
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IFGD,
congratulations on another great motorcycle ! :)
Just before the door closes behind you, would you care to elaborate on the finer details that for you make a night and day difference please?
A picture of yours would be nice too. Please. :)
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IFGD,
congratulations on another great motorcycle ! :)
Just before the door closes behind you, would you care to elaborate on the finer details that for you make a night and day difference please?
A picture of yours would be nice too. Please. :)
Thanks, it seems everything about the machine is 100% more refined--which makes sense, since it's 100% more expensive.
The fueling is perfect, the ergonomics are spot on, the stock seat is great and even though it's heavier than the Interceptor, it feels lighter--much lighter.
The acceleration is smooth and effortless. I suspected it might be a bit much for me to handle, but it's very forgiving.
As for the finer details, the tank badge isn't plastic, the brake and shift levers aren't stamped steel--instead cast aluminum. Oh, and the turn signals actually cancel when you press the button.
All in all it feels like a machine you can easily put 50k miles on. The Interceptor, while a great and fun bike, never gave me long-term confidence--especially after the third gear failures and the two times mine has suddenly slipped out of sixth gear. That and a RR replacement at ~3500 miles all made me look for a bike of higher quality.
All that said, if my old Interceptor ends up in a persons hands that will actually ride it, It'll likely be ripping around for many, many more miles.
I'll be sure to reassure my old bike tonight that it's me, not you (mostly).
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IFGD,
thanks for the comprehensive reply. Sounds like 'this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship'... :)
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Traded it on a Bonneville T120.
After riding the T120, it really made the Interceptor feel quite flimsy and cheap--which I suppose it is, but I wasn't expecting such a night/day difference.
So long, and thanks for all the fish.
Sounds like a wise decision. I'm sure you will love the Triumph. My buddy has a Speedmaster and is always singing it's praises. Make sure you give us a first ride review before you disappear.
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Everybody will be wanting a Triumph now :)
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Everybody will be wanting a Triumph now :)
No, its water cooled
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Good point
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I brought it home from the dealer with new ECU and factory relays installed under warranty. Then ordered rear sets, turn signal "audicator" and upgraded relays from Hitchcocks for spares😎 looking for lower black bars....
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I brought it home from the dealer with new ECU and factory relays installed under warranty. Then ordered rear sets, turn signal "audicator" and upgraded relays from Hitchcocks for spares😎 looking for lower black bars....
Which rear sets did you order?
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Not long ago, I was interested in a BMW R 18, but honestly it weighs too much, a few days ago I was at the dealership again, and the salesman informed me about the new R 12 nine T, and I think it is a strong candidate for me, That is, if my Interceptor stays at home, if I close the purchase I won't even think of any comparison, there simply isn't one, I'll give you a first sketch of it, greetings.
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Isn’t this post supposed to be about what you did to your 650, not what other bike you lust for?
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Honestly I'm pretty sure i'll be fine with swapping the OEM Continental GT over to mine. The Handlebars are what i'm searching for.
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Isn’t this post supposed to be about what you did to your 650, not what other bike you lust for?
Oopss, you are absolutely right, Merry Christmas.❤️
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Hello, they have just arrived home, they are for the rear of the motorcycle, they will replace the motogadget that I installed not long ago, they are a pair of the front ones, I will post photos when I have them installed, greetings, ahhhhh Jess, this post here is correct ?❤️
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Hello, they have just arrived home, they are for the rear of the motorcycle, they will replace the motogadget that I installed not long ago, they are a pair of the front ones, I will post photos when I have them installed, greetings, ahhhhh Jess, this post here is correct ?❤️
👍🏼❤️
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Hey everybody.
Cheers from Chile! Since the weather here is getting nicer (not that it's too bad to begin with) I just wanted to share the current status of my bike and the many mods I've done to it. The list is a little long so I'll try to remember all of it.
1. Continental fuel tank with custom paint, inspired by a BAAK design. I love the paint scheme, but regret switching to this tank. The INT tank is way more comfortable.
2. Tec Stinger 2 to 1 exhaust. Love the look and sound!
3. Metal side covers from BAAK. Might be the cheaper stuff BAAK makes. Looks nice, although a little expensive.
4. Shorty tail kit from MK Designs, swappable to longer, comfort seat from RE. Quality is so-so, bute ase of installation and convenience is great. The workshops I’ve seen cut and paint frames here have not had very good results, in my opinion. Got my inspiration from this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vf205bF4n-w&t=492s.
5. Airbox removal kit from MK Designs. Quality not very good. Had a hard time fitting it. Still, it creates a convenient storage space. And although the air filters are inconvenient in rain, I almost never ride with rain. Honestly, it barely rains down here.
6. Shorty seat from RE, swappable to longer, comfort seat from RE. See above.
7. Custom switchgear bought from Aliexpress. Totally unnecesary, but I like the way it looks, and you gain a couple extra buttons for accesories.
8. Bar end mirrors from Aliexpress. Love the look.
9. LED headlight from Aliexpress. I like the look, and it’s so much brighter tan stock.
10. Indicators/daytime driving lights from Aliexpress. Cheap, discrete, really bright and very advisable in South America.
11. Side mounted license plate holder and light from Aliexpress. Not convinced with it. Still, with the shorty conversion the license plate ends up almost flat, which is grounds for rejection at our yearly inspection.
12. Flatter handlebar from Aliexpress. Again, love the look and the riding position fits me.
13. Domio XM2 quick throttle. Love the response.
If anyone needs links or sources just drop me a DM and I’ll check my archives.
I hope you guys like my build. I imagine some might not like it, but for me it’s a hobby. I also have a Triumph Street Twin 900, and the customisation options are so much limited. The ST drives better, but the noise my INT makes, and the thumbs up I get riding it, are amazing.
Anyway, have a good one!
(http://)
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I particularly like the paint job on the tank.
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hansh,
thanks for not just a list of modifications, but a mini review for each one. I found your comment very interesting and, of course, the pictures show the result. :)
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I do like that color scheme on your tank with the orange and black!
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Hey everybody.
Cheers from Chile! .....
(http://)
Hello, Hansh. How is the biking scene in Chile? I have very fond memories of the country.
I spent many very happy months in Chile in about 1978, while doing a long trip around S. America in general. I know it was in the Pinochet era and that time has a bad reputation but I found the place to be interesting and very friendly. I stayed in Antofagasta (there was a nightspot in the shape of a Spanish galleon there at the time), Talcahuano but mostly Tocopilla in the north.
When I was considering retirement, Chile was the top destination on my list. However, I met my Thai wife in UK and the rest is history with absolutely no regrets. Even now I think fondly of my time in Chile.
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Hello, installation completed, only the license plate is missing and let's run.
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Hello, installation completed, only the license plate is missing and let's run.
Before and after
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Hey, I'm glad you enjoyed your time down here!
I guess that in every dark period there's an underlying humanity that remains, maybe dormant, but still there.
The biking scene has been growing strong with the economy. Up until the 2019 riots and the pandemic we were doing pretty ok, with flaws and all, but moving forward. Things are a little more difficult right now but still stable, after all that craziness.
Royal Enfields in particular came in strong, with a good rider community, customization options and everything.
I can't blame you for choosing Thailand. Not only you found yourself a partner, but the country is amazing. I was lucky to visit in 2007, mostly Bangkok and then up north.
Did you ride motorcycles while living in Chile? What brought you here?
Hello, Hansh. How is the biking scene in Chile? I have very fond memories of the country.
I spent many very happy months in Chile in about 1978, while doing a long trip around S. America in general. I know it was in the Pinochet era and that time has a bad reputation but I found the place to be interesting and very friendly. I stayed in Antofagasta (there was a nightspot in the shape of a Spanish galleon there at the time), Talcahuano but mostly Tocopilla in the north.
When I was considering retirement, Chile was the top destination on my list. However, I met my Thai wife in UK and the rest is history with absolutely no regrets. Even now I think fondly of my time in Chile.
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Thanks for your kind words. My idea is to share my experiences, so they may hep someone else.
hansh,
thanks for not just a list of modifications, but a mini review for each one. I found your comment very interesting and, of course, the pictures show the result. :)
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Drove my INT.650 and polished/protected the bike’s polished aluminum’s engine with Rejex.
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I didn't do anything to the bike, it's in the garage waiting for better weather... (freezing and salt on the roads at the moment overhere).
But I did buy new brakepads, after reading about the EBC HH pads on this forum I am going to try them (front and rear). In the worst case -if I don't notice a difference at all- I'll have some spare pads for the future in stock :)
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You'll notice a difference. I did with the Brembo pads, not huge but enough to make the money spent worth it
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Hey all!
I made a few adjustments to the bike today, but I am quite pleased with the results.
I added the Beeline mount, the RE small engine guards, the BAAK rear mudguard, the brake light, and the license plate holder. I am definitely happy with the results and the simplicity of the Beeline nav system.
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Hey Rob, where'd you get the Beeline mount? Curious.
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I think I'm a bit jealous of your workspace ;)
The Beeline mount can be ordered from Thecaffeineracer, that's where I got mine.
https://www.thecaffeineracer.uk/
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Awesome Possum. Thank you!
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I think I'm a bit jealous of your workspace ;)
The Beeline mount can be ordered from Thecaffeineracer, that's where I got mine.
https://www.thecaffeineracer.uk/
I appreciate it! You're also correct, I ordered mine from the caffeine racer as well:
https://www.thecaffeineracer.uk/product-page/mount-for-beeline-to-fit-enfield-650
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Hey Rob, are those handles modified/lowered? Your bike (and garage) look amazing btw. So shinny!
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Hey Rob, are those handles modified/lowered? Your bike (and garage) look amazing btw. So shinny!
Lowered slightly - just moved down about 1.5 inches with the stock bars.
Thanks! I'm a big fan of the Mr. Clean.
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Nice push-bike collection 8)
(https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=30554.0;attach=85696;image)
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Nice push-bike collection 8)
I may have a problem ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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I say Rob, show us ya arze end....to see the baak light
Gotta admit, I started a thread riding with nothing but I reckon I need to fit a nav system of some sort.
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I say Rob, show us ya arze end....to see the baak light
Gotta admit, I started a thread riding with nothing but I reckon I need to fit a nav system of some sort.
Here you go!
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Nice push-bike collection 8)
Oh oh...
Let's make that hanging bike collection ;)
(I noticed them too, as my main hobby is cycling.
Bicycle-person-motorcycle ratio in our home is 8:2:1 ;D).
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Oh oh...
Let's make that hanging bike collection ;)
(I noticed them too, as my main hobby is cycling.
Bicycle-person-motorcycle ratio in our home is 8:2:1 ;D).
Pretty similar 6:2:2
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Pretty similar 6:2:2
16:2:2
From the 16 bicycles 14 are mine, as we'll as the two motorbikes. But we have only one car ;D
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16:2:2
From the 16 bicycles 14 are mine, as we'll as the two motorbikes. But we have only one car ;D
You've got it bad Karl ... 14:2:1
I feel inadequate at ... 3:2:1
Two of mine, the third is on rollers here in my office.
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Installed Continental GT rear sets and rolled the stock bars rearward on my Interceptor
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Just an update on the above modification. Man, switching to the GT rearsets absolutely transformed the interceptor for me! I rolled the stock bars rearward a bit and in doing so they lowered a bit as well. Transformative.
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Nothing ------ I am sat at home bored stiff, sick of rubbish on TV and can't do anything.
Was very icy here over weekend I fell and shattered my kneecap. I wont bore you with the details, but I am in bloody agony.
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Good evening, today I dismantled the sissy bar, which I have never liked, and I reassembled the little roller as it looks, I'm not convinced, maybe on the side it would look better?
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Nothing ------ I am sat at home bored stiff, sick of rubbish on TV and can't do anything.
Was very icy here over weekend I fell and shattered my kneecap. I wont bore you with the details, but I am in bloody agony.
[/quote
That's bad luck and sounds nasty, hope it eases soon.
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Nothing ------ I am sat at home bored stiff, sick of rubbish on TV and can't do anything.
Was very icy here over weekend I fell and shattered my kneecap. I wont bore you with the details, but I am in bloody agony.
Ouch! 🤕 That sucks! I can't bear watching those fail videos of people slipping on ice 😨 Hope you have a fine in-house nurse and some creative distractions from the pain. Heal well! 💕👩⚕️
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Did the air delete at the same time as tappet check. As Rob said elsewhere, the cover is so much easier to get on and off without the hoses in the way; and bike looks much tidier without them.
Ps, 5:1:1 here, including a tandem 💑
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I didn’t do anything to my bike today or for the previous two months. It’s been sitting in pieces since the beginning of October when I suddenly got sick while installing an Outex kit and replacing the stock Pirellis. I eventually went to the ER where I was diagnosed with a perforated gallbladder. (Sometimes referred to as “Old Man Gallbladder Syndrome.”) After I got my strength back I quickly got buried in work projects.
I did however order a motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight last night. Though I’m pretty lithe and get to work on my bikes indoors I’m nevertheless tired of crawling around on the floor. A motorcycle perched on a lift is going to look ridiculous in my dining room but I’ve decided to go all in for the sake of comfort.
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I didn’t do anything to my bike today or for the previous two months. It’s been sitting in pieces since the beginning of October when I suddenly got sick while installing an Outex kit and replacing the stock Pirellis. I eventually went to the ER where I was diagnosed with a perforated gallbladder. (Sometimes referred to as “Old Man Gallbladder Syndrome.”) After I got my strength back I quickly got buried in work projects.
I did however order a motorcycle lift from Harbor Freight last night. Though I’m pretty lithe and get to work on my bikes indoors I’m nevertheless tired of crawling around on the floor. A motorcycle perched on a lift is going to look ridiculous in my dining room but I’ve decided to go all in for the sake of comfort.
Good for you! Glad you are getting well again. Just find a designer label and stick it on your lift ;).
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A motorcycle perched on a lift is going to look ridiculous in my dining room but I’ve decided to go all in for the sake of comfort.
Tell us you are not married, without telling us you are not married.
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Most of the women I know here would love the idea. All my exes would definitely have approved. There are worse vices than a love for motorcycles.
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Rolled into my shop from test riding the GT rearset install on the Interceptor noticed a substantial bug strike on the tank. An unattended micro fiber cloth blew off and onto the left pipe and you know what that means. While trying a few remedies I grabbed the wrong abrasive pad and scratched the chrome trying to remove the micro fiber. A double whammy. I know I'm replacing the exhaust with a lighter brushed stainless system this summer so I tried to even out the look of the exhaust by dulling the chrome from the cooling fin ring to the bottom of the first bend. To me seems to fit with the head/valve cover and injector cover. What do you guys say?
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Nice shop.
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Started the fork upgrade today. Matris cartridges. Got the left fork disassembled without too much difficulty, but find that I'm going to need a 8mm impact bit to get the bolt at the bottom of the fork tightened. On order and should arrive Monday. In the meantime, a couple of my "barn friends" will keep an eye on things.
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Mounted the foot rest adapter plates from Hitchcocks. Feels more relaxed now
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Got my Koso heated grips and Halcyon bar end mirrors fitted. The cockpit looks real good now.
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Got my Koso heated grips and Halcyon bar end mirrors fitted. The cockpit looks real good now.
Good looking mirrors. Removed the RE bar end weights? The only thing I don't like about them is that even a simple bike drop will likely be quite expensive..
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Finally yesterday I fitted the RE sump guard that's been sat on a shelf for the last twelve months. I also cut away a section of the front mounting bracket to allow easy removal of the oil filter. Oil and filter recently changed and now undergoing a thorough clean for the winter lay up.
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I ported the head, installed S&S high comp pistons, S&S cam, performance valve springs, bored the throttle body, made a air cleaner, no base gasket. Currently tuning the ecu with Tuner Pro. So far so good.
What did you bore the TB to?
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What did you bore the TB to?
You may be clutching at straws there, Robert. Automatic has only posted twice here, on the same day, back in May.
Ps, I see you're going another route with your engine mods: Do you still want the stack sleeves? I'm in QLD at the moment but can post when I go home next week.
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My clutch cable gave way while on the highway - so I had some downtime while a new cable was shipped out.
Finally fitted the front indicators to match the rears - bought the Baak rear fender, license plate holder and 4 signal pack. Didn’t know that the signals don’t fit the regular bracket for the front of the bike so that took some work.
Added some adjustable levers for my small hands!
Finally - venhill clutch cable!
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My clutch cable gave way while on the highway - so I had some downtime while a new cable was shipped out.
Finally fitted the front indicators to match the rears - bought the Baak rear fender, license plate holder and 4 signal pack. Didn’t know that the signals don’t fit the regular bracket for the front of the bike so that took some work.
Added some adjustable levers for my small hands!
Finally - venhill clutch cable!
Lube the cable ferrule in the lever. Been a couple of reports of cables breaking at the lever because the ferrule isn’t moving freely…
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Lube the cable ferrule in the lever. Been a couple of reports of cables breaking at the lever because the ferrule isn’t moving freely…
Thanks for the advice! I lubed everything well - the stock cable broke at the opposite end.
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It's 40° in Minnesota today so I broke my GT out of storage. If Minnesota wants to pretend it's spring, I'm going to pretend it's spring.
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It's 40° in Minnesota today so I broke my GT out of storage. If Minnesota wants to pretend it's spring, I'm going to pretend it's spring.
That is a handsome bike! I really like the black with silver wheels and while I changed the shocks on mine to get rid of the gold reservoirs they work great on yours with the gold tank stripe. Very nice! :)
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That is a handsome bike! I really like the black with silver wheels and while I changed the shocks on mine to get rid of the gold reservoirs they work great on yours with the gold tank stripe. Very nice! :)
Thanks! Black magic wasn't my first choice but it's definitely grown on me!
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Finally got the Matris fork cartridges installed and the bike back together. Got the preload and rebound dialed in pretty good but will do some more riding before I'm able to get the compression where I want it. The bike feels so different with the cartridges and the Ohlins shocks now. Just sitting on the bike feels like I'm sitting on an expensive motorcycle. The ride is firm, but soaks up bumps nicely. Tested over the local cattle guards at about 65 mph. No issues! A worthwhile upgrade in my book.
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If, per chance, you want to paint out the royal Enfield on the engine case, unused caliper paint and a modelling brush. Pretty much followed Stewart fillingham method. Worked a treat. Near 2 years on and not a issue
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Moved the bike from the kitchen to the den/home office/workshop. Although it was only a two-day visit to an admittedly small kitchen, it was good click bait on my wife's Facebook page. She is now universally hailed as the epitome of stoic patience in marriage.
Also, I have finally destroyed the fourth tail light on my storage shelf in search of Nirvana and a fifth is incoming. As it turns out, I am much more interested in the optical design of tail lights than of finding a tail light for my bike. Hence, the destructive testing. But in time, I guess I will get there.
So far, the optics of the Uno Minda OEM tail light is the best. Like, by light years. Did not go for the mechanical integrity though. In general, most designs are crap due to either poor design or poor production, mostly the latter whenh it comes to classic designs. To my surprise, Harley Davidson seems to have the best ideas about tail light design: modern wedge bulbs, a semi-sealed plastic reflector/lens unit with screws into the to the back and not the other way around, and a design that guarantees correct geometry even after service.
And don't even get me started on tolerances. Tip from the coach: if your tail light reflector does not shine like a mirror, it probably shouldn't. If it does, it probably shouldn't either. It is better to have a half-assed (broad) focal point that the filaments are sure to hit than a perfect focal point in which the filament may or may not be. It's like The Boy's Own of Book of Technical Horrors.
I am glad that I never became an engineer after all. I would either have been a) a jaded, hollow shadow of the man I used to be, or b) in constant battle against "corporate", Don Quixote-style.
Best,
Kranis
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Tip from the coach: if your tail light reflector does not shine like a mirror, it probably shouldn't. If it does, it probably shouldn't either. It is better to have a half-assed (broad) focal point that the filaments are sure to hit than a perfect focal point in which the filament may or may not be.
Kranis
Funny stuff Kranis. You are correct about the decline of reflectivity coming from the inside of the tail and turn signal lights.
You can however add some mylar tape in there including a 3/8" ~ 1/2" strip around the inside of the lens cover itself where it meets the back plate.
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Funny stuff Kranis. You are correct about the decline of reflectivity coming from the inside of the tail and turn signal lights.
You can however add some mylar tape in there including a 3/8" ~ 1/2" strip around the inside of the lens cover itself where it meets the back plate.
But, but, but... I told you to not get me started.
Optically, it is as good as it gets. The mirror is a "dimpled" parabolic reflector that has a broad focus point due to the convex squares ("positive dimples"?). I did a simple test to confirm by replacing the bulb with a cardboard stick in the center of the bulb holder and shine some roughly collimated beams at the reflector. Compared to a Hella headlight, it is crap in terms of precision, but it accommodates the fairly hefty production tolerances in P21/5W bulbs (1157): angle tolerance alone is ±15º around the z-axis... The plastic lens contains a 60mm fresnel lens with f=60mm, giving approx. a 55º angle of the beam from the reflector. The lens is very well made with defined angles except for the clear part for the license plate illumination with bears signs of (mediocre) manual sanding/polishing. The filaments are roughly 40mm from the lens apex, giving additional spread angle from the lens since the filament is less than 60 mm from the apex. Everything except for the bulb holder is casted, which is a big bonus: stamped metal for reflectors is no longer a good option for precision work. Casted details will have very little variation of critical angles. Sure, a stainless or chromed polished back plate would not hurt, but it is just for the "feel good" effect. The bulb socket is stamped metal but perfectly aligned in the back plate with a snug fit and punched through channels for the bulb pins. In sum: I love the engineering and execution that went into it to the point where I hesitate to change it as originally planned.
If anything, I would like to have machine screws attach the lens to the back plate. Now, it is the other way around and on my bike, one of the tubes on the lens that receives the screws was broken, which caused some moderate dirt and water ingress that was discovered when I went to town on the poor thing. A second mod would be to take of page out of the Harley Davidson design book and just glue the reflector and lens together: less dirt, geometry fixed at manufacturing and less risk of touching the reflector, which is the common uncoated vacuum-deposited aluminium. Works very well as long as it is kept clean and away from the grubby ol' fingers of yours truly.
This report of sorts is admittedly OT, but given that I have done the same thing with three other tail lights, I think I have shown a modicum of restraint, rant-wise.
Best,
Kranis
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He's right. Don't get him started. ;D
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He's right. Don't get him started. ;D
;D
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I parked it! 2.5 days and 1,100k. Bikes filthy, I'm tired and it's beer o'clock. Did some super twisty roads, some in the rain. Quite demanding. Ahh, lil putt putt did good!
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He's right. Don't get him started. ;D
;D
Let's agree to agree! ;D
/Kranis
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New owner with 190 miles on the clock. Purchased the Dux Deluxe scheme and don't regret getting this as my return to the two wheel community what so ever.
As such no mechanically inclined guy can resist a mod or two. First thing was going over hardware, repairing damaged threads.
Modifications were: Powerage headers and silencers. Power plug, SS filter, Smart moto EVAP delete, Air injection delete and a few dozen titanium bolts that were left over from years gone by.
Such a fun bike.
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New owner with 190 miles on the clock. Purchased the Dux Deluxe scheme and don't regret getting this as my return to the two wheel community what so ever.
As such no mechanically inclined guy can resist a mod or two. First thing was going over hardware, repairing damaged threads.
Modifications were: Powerage headers and silencers. Power plug, SS filter, Smart moto EVAP delete, Air injection delete and a few dozen titanium bolts that were left over from years gone by.
Such a fun bike.
Welcome and Welcome back.
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Hello
Today I replaced the gear position sensor on my Interceptor, which I gave to my friendly dealer and which has been with me for 14 days. The old sensor also showed neutral in first and sometimes sixth gear. Replacing the sensor itself wasn't a big problem, but the connector is in a very difficult to access place behind the gearbox. But with dirty fingers and a bit of cursing I managed it and now everything is fine again.
I wish everyone the best for the new year and always a safe journey.
Polsius
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A year ago, I took a rented Interceptor out for a day’s ride. Liked it so much I bought one.
Took mine out today for the exact same ride.
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Middle of winter here in Alberta so definitely no riding but I did brave the cold garage to install the Hitchcock usb port on the GT650. Pretty straightforward job and just makes the motorcycle a little bit more useable.
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4th tappet clearance check - all inlet perfect, 3 exhaust very slightly loose (next size up could go; no bad thing but adjusted anyway).
Have noticed very little change in over 32,000km since first service check, where they were all tight.
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Last ride of '23.
Just cruising through some nearby villages, a bit windy, but nevertheless a nice ride.
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First ride of 2024 for all three bikes today. I put Sahara tire sealant in the Interceptor and the Himalayan, so took them out to distribute the sealant in the tubes. Put a shifter brace on the 1000sx and re-adjusted the shifter, so had to test that as well. Happy New Year to one and all!
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Measured for my new windshield. When it comes in I will do a mockup of all the custom parts then begin paint work and assembly.
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Nothing, but I made an appointment for the annual (or 5.000km) maintenance. The dealer is picking the bike up next week and returns it the week after. That way I don't have to ride in the rain or on salted roads :)
They had a promo that included picking the bike up at your home (if less than 75km from the shop). Since the bike is still in warranty I leave it to the dealer. After that I will do the maintenance myself.
Also ordered an impact wrench, when the bike gets back I'm going to tackle the job of installing the Matris fork cartridges.
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....
Also ordered an impact wrench, when the bike gets back I'm going to tackle the job of installing the Matris fork cartridges.
Keep in mind that in order to deal with the sometimes problem of the spinning bolt...
Pulling the fork tube AWAY from the fork bottom works to apply anti-spin torque via the "top out spring".
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Thanks, I remember reading about that in other posts.
We'll see how difficult -or not- it will be to get the bolts loosened...
Worst case scenario I'll take the forks off completely and take them to the dealer.
Drink a coffee while he pulls the forks apart ;D
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Thanks, I remember reading about that in other posts.
We'll see how difficult -or not- it will be to get the bolts loosened...
Worst case scenario I'll take the forks off completely and take them to the dealer.
Drink a coffee while he pulls the forks apart ;D
The way i did it was by loosening that bolt while forks were still on the bike and still assembled.
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The way i did it was by loosening that bolt while forks were still on the bike and still assembled.
Yes. I should have mentioned that yes do it with the fork caps still in.
Also, know that if you are working alone, AND your bike is secured from tipping over ...
You can grip the tubes using the triple clamps. You can even slide the forks back into the triple tree upside down. That way you can work on that bolt / not scarring the tube / and not plooshing oil allover the place when the bolt finally does give up. ;)
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The rear of the bike is on a paddock stand, and I have a motorcycle specific jack to put under the frame tubes. It won't tip over easily and I'm a think three times before you act kind of person ;D
@Tuh, could it be we live in the same part of Holland? (Midden-Brabant?).
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The rear of the bike is on a paddock stand, and I have a motorcycle specific jack to put under the frame tubes. It won't tip over easily and I'm a think three times before you act kind of person ;D
@Tuh, could it be we live in the same part of Holland? (Midden-Brabant?).
Not too far away, western part of brabant 🙂 (originally from the middle, den bosch) we should ride sometime! 🙂
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That would be nice, two 650's at the same time is very rare overhere ;D
I've only seen one other GT in the year since I have mine.
Let's get in touch when the weather gets a bit better. I'm near Tilburg.
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Some spring adjustment and some cosmetics for the seat.
Have noticed the stitch work is not symmetric but what a great bike to tinker on.
30 years road racing bikes, I never thought I would buy a street bike let alone this one. ;D
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Some spring adjustment and some cosmetics for the seat.
Have noticed the stitch work is not symmetric but what a great bike to tinker on.
30 years road racing bikes, I never thought I would buy a street bike let alone this one. ;D
Welcome ! Yes, I bet you will really enjoy this bike.
Are you in the "panhandle"?
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Nothing, but I made an appointment for the annual (or 5.000km) maintenance. The dealer is picking the bike up next week and returns it the week after.
Yesterday the bike was picked up by the dealer. They will be bringing it back next week, and I asked them to check the valves too (5.000km service normally doesn't include valves).
I reed about some not so good RE dealerships on this forum, but I'm very happy with my dealer. It's a small shop that only does Enfields, and you don't talk to salesmen but to the mechanic himself. Which ofcourse is the same guy ;D
When spring (better weather) comes I'm gonna do a little ride on one of their Enfield singles. I don't intend to buy one but I'm just curious how they feel. I've always liked single cilinder bikes, owned two XT 500's and did almost 100.000km on my SRX-6. The oldest single I rode was a 1934 Eysink 500 (Dutch brand) with a Rudge four valve engine. I always blamed my dad for selling that bike ;D
(he needed space and cash to buy an Indian Four basket case to restore so he had a good reason).
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It’s -35c (-32f) outdoors here in Canada so I’m indoors watching YouTube reviews of the new BMW 1300GS which is ladened with so much tech to go wrong. My GT650 is simplicity personified in comparison.
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Welcome ! Yes, I bet you will really enjoy this bike.
Are you in the "panhandle"?
Just stumbled upon the question. I'm down here in Deltona and have fallen in love with this retro bird!
Just swapping out hardware this week ;D
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I had a cold so I took the time when not coughing to chuck up some of the old titanium and find a new home on an old design.
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Finally fair weather so used my commute to work as a testrun :)
Changed the original camshaft to the S&S camshaft + shimms
Changed the original exhaust headers to the Hitchcock headers
Power commander V with the hitchcock map for open filter, exhaust and camshaft
Finished the final details last night
Started the bike this morning and rode to work, around 25km distance:
Kept it still mild as it was the first testrun but I already felt that the cam definately makes a difference!
1st impression: no loss of low torque and keeps on going untill the end of the rpm range instead of losing breath.
Definatly worth it
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This morning I installed Tec bike parts foot controls...
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A couple of weeks ago finally installed Super Meteor switchgear...
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A couple of weeks ago finally installed Super Meteor switchgear...
[/
What a great improvement, have you installed them? If it's not too much of an indiscretion, is it very expensive?
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Noticed that my Ebay clock stopped on the way to work this morning.
Struggled for a while to read the microscopic battery model number. Then searched the office for a magnifying glass. Finally found someone with younger eyes to read the number for me so I can order another a replacement.
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Not a fan of tubed tyres, and definitely not a fan of the squirrely stock CEAT tyres.
What to do.. what to do... oooh, I know!
Get on eBay after a few beers and purchase some alloy wheels so you can run tubeless tyres (without faffing about trying to seal up the spoked wheels) and a set of Bridgestone BT46 in stock size - perfect.
Ooh and because you're a glutton for punishment, why not try fitting and balancing them yourself - a great excuse for more purchases!
(Prices in AUD)
Tyres: $378
Wheels: $760
Balance stand: $57
Wheel weights: $15
Tyre levers and rim protectors: $168 (didn't even end up using these because I learned about the cable tie method after purchase. I'm telling myself they'll get used in the future.. sure, mate, you're not doing this again)
Being done a favour by a local car/truck tyre fitter in setting the beads: $0
Also added recently:
- changed the screen for the shorter version, keeps the bugs off the gauges and that's about it, instead of the taller screen which kept bugs off the gauges and had the bonus feature of directing turbulent air straight onto my helmet for some delightful wind noise.
- adjustable shorty brake and clutch levers
What's next:
- LED indicators and tail/brake light if I can find some that I like
- Bitier brake pads
Oh, ignore the photobombing scooter, that's just seeking attention.
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The wheels look good!
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I didn't do anything, but getting closer to finally assembly ;D
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I didn't do anything, but getting closer to finally assembly ;D
Selfishly, I'm hoping that you are taking lots of build photos that you are willing to share.
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I didn't do anything, but getting closer to finally assembly ;D
That picture is quite a tease. Very interested to find out exactly what you’re up to. It certainly looks promising.
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I got mine actually home and in the garage Thursday. Yesterday I pulled the relays and cleaned all that grease out. I didn't think much of it at the time, but prior to the cleaning it took a bit more cranking to get it started than I would have expected. Maybe it was because it had been sitting...I dont know. After the cleaning and applying actual dielectric great it started right up on the first crank. Might be in my head, but at least I got to spend some time in the garage working on the bike. Rain and crappy weather have prevented me from riding it yet. :(
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I finally got sick of crawling around on the floor and bought a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift on sale. Like everyone on YouTube recommends, I tossed the cheap HF chock in the garbage and bolted on my own. Now I need some decent lighting so I don't have to wear a headlamp every time I work on my bike.
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I just installed a Himalayan windshield. Bolted right up after I made a special mount.
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I finally got sick of crawling around on the floor and bought a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift on sale. Like everyone on YouTube recommends, I tossed the cheap HF chock in the garbage and bolted on my own. Now I need some decent lighting so I don't have to wear a headlamp every time I work on my bike.
They are quite handy, aren't they? I've had one for years. And, last year, I spent some dough on upgraded LED lighting in my garage. It's definitely worth it if you do lots of garage projects. I used to have a motion switch that would kick the lights on when I came into the garage, but I can't find one that works with the LEDs. Oh well, the added light trumps flipping a switch.
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I replaced the battery in my Ebay clock.
The battery lasted a year, a ten-pack of batteries was six bucks on Amazon. So, I should be good for ten years now.
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I just installed a Himalayan windshield. Bolted right up after I made a special mount.
Is it an OEM? Make and model?
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Hi all, I have just installed the meteor 350 handlebar on my interceptor and I am delighted, I had to share it. I should mention that I'm 1.90 m tall and I'm working on my bike in the scrambler direction. It has improved in everything, the riding position is more relaxed and the maneuverability especially in tight spaces (I use it a lot in the city). 100% satisfied I would never go back. The transition was easy, just the throttle cables to be moved a little (under the tank) and the two holes on the handlebar to be made.
(https://s13.gifyu.com/images/SCvcu.jpg)
(https://s13.gifyu.com/images/SCvcQ.jpg)
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I just installed Hitchcock’s USB kit to the top of the left fork. Then installed the battery and heated jacket harness to make things more convenient. With my windshield, hand guards and heated jacket/gloves I should be comfortable enough for the rest of the winter.
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So much done and yet more ahead. Installed a Mr.Clean tank 8)
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8)
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I just installed Hitchcock’s USB kit to the top of the left fork. Then installed the battery and heated jacket harness to make things more convenient. With my windshield, hand guards and heated jacket/gloves I should be comfortable enough for the rest of the winter.
It does look quite cozy. Hand guards should go a long way in keeping your hands warm.
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Got a little package from AliExpress ;)
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Did a quick n dirty 'remix' of the 3d printable Beeline mount to fit a voltmeter instead, printed it last night and ready to fit when I get motivated to head down to the garage and pull my bike apart. Of course, should I decide to get a Beeline in the future I'm going to have issues..
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And fitted up..
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Hi all, I have just installed the meteor 350 handlebar on my interceptor and I am delighted, I had to share it. I should mention that I'm 1.90 m tall and I'm working on my bike in the scrambler direction. It has improved in everything, the riding position is more relaxed and the maneuverability especially in tight spaces (I use it a lot in the city). 100% satisfied I would never go back. The transition was easy, just the throttle cables to be moved a little (under the tank) and the two holes on the handlebar to be made.
(https://s13.gifyu.com/images/SCvcu.jpg)
(https://s13.gifyu.com/images/SCvcQ.jpg)
Nice looking bike. Love the tank :)
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What did I do to my Interceptor today? Paid the big, wet, juicy bite that the state takes out of my wallet for the gift of riding it for another year. That is one expensive little sticker.
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Here in Ontario our populist conservative government eliminated vehicle registration fees. You still need to get a sticker, you just don't pay for it anymore.
I think it cost them about $1B annually in lost revenues. Not sure I agree it was the best idea, all things considered. Maybe could have spent that money on improving public transit, for people who can't afford cars (or motorcycles) in the first place...
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Wow, that's nice. We pay... boy do we pay.
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Thanks for suggesting the premium seat...Soooooo better on longer rides so far. 8)
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Fitted the 16tooth sprocket, unfortunatelly alot of rain so i did not test it yet :)
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Today it was time to check 10,000 km. €270 I think is expensive 🥲🥲
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picture test
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Confession time, until yesterday I haven’t ridden since last November.
We had a beautiful day and I got a surprise afternoon off from watching my grandkids(3 toddlers, twins & big sister).
So I dust off my baby and wake her from her sleep and we go for a ride. Nice twisty roads just north and east of me.
It is amazing how lack of riding affects you. The first 30 minutes of riding every turn felt uncomfortable, I just could not feel the balance of the bike. I did finally find my it and the rest of the ride was great, but damn if you don’t use it you lose it.
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Congrats, Jess. Must have felt nice to get back on two wheels. I hung it up for a week when we had our major storms to give the roads time to dry up and for road crews to clean debris and get to the biggest potholes. Felt great to get back.
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Wind Therapy !
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Confession time, until yesterday I haven’t ridden since last November.
We had a beautiful day and I got a surprise afternoon off from watching my grandkids(3 toddlers, twins & big sister).
So I dust off my baby and wake her from her sleep and we go for a ride. Nice twisty roads just north and east of me.
It is amazing how lack of riding affects you. The first 30 minutes of riding every turn felt uncomfortable, I just could not feel the balance of the bike. I did finally find my it and the rest of the ride was great, but damn if you don’t use it you lose it.
Welcome back jess, i already have that after a week 😂
Build it up again and take care!
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Gave my bike a kiss and a cool sunny ride for 3 years of perfect common life ;)
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/07/e1p6.jpg)
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Gave my bike a kiss and a cool sunny ride for 3 years of perfect common life ;)
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/07/e1p6.jpg)
Ha, nice. Had a second take before the candles registered. Mine is coming up on 4yrs of happy times
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We have been having some epic "halcyon" winter days here in Kefalonia, Greece this past week which has provided weather for some fantastic rides...I'm not a big fan of chrome, so I had a friend "wrap" my chrome crash bars. Not sure how it will hold-up due to the heat of the engine, as well as I think I might prefer to get them painted...waiting for my brushed steel Hitchcock headers and silencers to make a final decision. Want to see how it looks all together, with the new exhaust, before I decide to commit. Also, just got a new Belstaff jacket. For once-in-my-life I didn't pay full price. ;D Been wanting this particular jacket for a while now, and found it for 40% off. Yay. Fit and quality can't be beat.
Safe and enjoyable riding to all!
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Mine is coming up on 4yrs of happy times
Bravo !
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just got a new Belstaff jacket. For once-in-my-life I didn't pay full price. ;D Been wanting this particular jacket for a while now, and found it for 40% off. Yay. Fit and quality can't be beat.
Safe and enjoyable riding to all!
I had a trial master jacket when I got my first moped, I still remember that great smell and the feeling of being part of the bikers, it will always remind me of when I was 14! You just had to avoid getting too close to white walls ;D ;D. It was already very expensive at the time, around 400 French francs, today 550 € (3,600 francs if we transpose basically, but that was in '73) Yours is superb, any link to this good deal?
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... Also, just got a new Belstaff jacket. For once-in-my-life I didn't pay full price. ;D Been wanting this particular jacket for a while now, and found it for 40% off. Yay. Fit and quality can't be beat.
Safe and enjoyable riding to all!
I recently found a half used tin of Belstaff Wax in an old saddlebag up in the rafters.
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We have been having some epic "halcyon" winter days here in Kefalonia, Greece this past week which has provided weather for some fantastic rides...I'm not a big fan of chrome, so I had a friend "wrap" my chrome crash bars. Not sure how it will hold-up due to the heat of the engine, as well as I think I might prefer to get them painted...waiting for my brushed steel Hitchcock headers and silencers to make a final decision. Want to see how it looks all together, with the new exhaust, before I decide to commit. Also, just got a new Belstaff jacket. For once-in-my-life I didn't pay full price. ;D Been wanting this particular jacket for a while now, and found it for 40% off. Yay. Fit and quality can't be beat.
Safe and enjoyable riding to all!
Where did you find the jacket? Looks like a lighter summer option to my Oxford...
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I had a trial master jacket when I got my first moped, I still remember that great smell and the feeling of being part of the bikers, it will always remind me of when I was 14! You just had to avoid getting too close to white walls ;D ;D. It was already very expensive at the time, around 400 French francs, today 550 € (3,600 francs if we transpose basically, but that was in '73) Yours is superb, any link to this good deal?
Hi Voun!
Yes, I absolutely love Belstaff jackets, I have two now. ;D Crazy expensive, but as they say, you get what you pay for. Fit and finish is just top-notch. I bought this jacket you are asking about from a shop in Athens Greece. I had my eye on it a long time, and the shop owner finally said he'd take 40% off if I paid cash and no receipt. It's how things are done sometimes here in Greece...
You can find the jacket on Belstaff's site. They have a big sale once a year, right after Christmas. 40% off there too, but I always see this particular jacket sold-out each Christmas. I also suggest doing a general google search. You might get lucky. Having said that, I feel the jacket is so good, I'd be happy to pay full price...though it does seem to fit "better" with the 40% discount I got! lol!
Here are some quick finds and discounts I found for the jacket;
1st link gives you 10% off here https://www.urbanrider.co.uk/belstaff-roberts-wax-jacket-matte-black.html
2nd link 18% off here https://www.tradeinn.com/motardinn/en/belstaff-roberts-2.0-jacket/137394354/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=9890443&country=gr&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvKi_ZKugwMVUaWDBx1nkQPEEAQYASABEgJvdPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Cheers!
ps here is my other Belstaff jacket. Absolutely love it too. Classic CafeRacer style...first time I've really worn a leather jacket both on and off my bike. It's called the Belstaff "V-Racer." I can highly recommend this jacket too.
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Where did you find the jacket? Looks like a lighter summer option to my Oxford...
Hi Hoiho! Yes, I got the jacket specifically for more Spring/Autumn riding. Might be a bit too much for summer, at least here in Greece. Look at my post right above this one for some links to the jacket I got that you are asking about.
Cheers!
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I recently found a half used tin of Belstaff Wax in an old saddlebag up in the rafters.
Nice. I'm going to order some of that wax...
Cheers!
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Just received new tires for my interceptor 650. B’stone Battlax BT46, front 100/90-18 and rear 140/70-18. Cannot wait for them to be fitted on my bike. Was not impressed with the stock Ceat tires after 4500km on them. The bt46 rear tire looks massive (unmounted) albeit just one size up from the stock. Hope the combination front rear size works well.
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Hi Hoiho! Yes, I got the jacket specifically for more Spring/Autumn riding. Might be a bit too much for summer, at least here in Greece. Look at my post right above this one for some links to the jacket I got that you are asking about.
Cheers!
Thanks John - too spendy for a summer jacket for me. Put some PPF on the tank where the exposed dome will rub...
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Hi Voun!
Yes, I absolutely love Belstaff jackets, I have two now. ;D Crazy expensive, but as they say, you get what you pay for. Fit and finish is just top-notch. I bought this jacket you are asking about from a shop in Athens Greece. I had my eye on it a long time, and the shop owner finally said he'd take 40% off if I paid cash and no receipt. It's how things are done sometimes here in Greece...
You can find the jacket on Belstaff's site. They have a big sale once a year, right after Christmas. 40% off there too, but I always see this particular jacket sold-out each Christmas. I also suggest doing a general google search. You might get lucky. Having said that, I feel the jacket is so good, I'd be happy to pay full price...though it does seem to fit "better" with the 40% discount I got! lol!
Here are some quick finds and discounts I found for the jacket;
1st link gives you 10% off here https://www.urbanrider.co.uk/belstaff-roberts-wax-jacket-matte-black.html
2nd link 18% off here https://www.tradeinn.com/motardinn/en/belstaff-roberts-2.0-jacket/137394354/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=9890443&country=gr&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvvKi_ZKugwMVUaWDBx1nkQPEEAQYASABEgJvdPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Cheers!
ps here is my other Belstaff jacket. Absolutely love it too. Classic CafeRacer style...first time I've really worn a leather jacket both on and off my bike. It's called the Belstaff "V-Racer." I can highly recommend this jacket too.
Many thanks John!
I remember that unfortunately my two Trialmasters had worn out quite quickly, especially on the forearms if I remember correctly. So I searched and found this photo, weird to see me with hair ;D and sad to not have the 500XT I rode at this time!
This jacket was nice!
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/08/2h43.jpg)
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Greased the chain and went for a ride! Huntsville, Alabama to Tupelo, Mississippi and back. About 300 miles, a hundred of it on the Natchez Trace parkway. Any of y’all in the southeast United States have got to ride this road, it’s perfect for our bikes. Butter smooth and 50mph from Nashville to Natchez, no stop signs, and no traffic. I had a great day and recommend it to anyone close enough to try, it’s not exciting like the Dragon, just very pleasant and fun!!
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Many thanks John!
I remember that unfortunately my two Trialmasters had worn out quite quickly, especially on the forearms if I remember correctly. So I searched and found this photo, weird to see me with hair ;D and sad to not have the 500XT I rode at this time!
This jacket was nice!
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/08/2h43.jpg)
Voun! I say you got a bit of "Steve McQueen" going there! ;D Looking good. Nothing like youth and a nice leather jacket. Every time I get on my GT 650 I feel "young" again. We are blessed to still be riding and enjoying it.
Cheers!
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Today I‘ve got a little package from England :)
Stadium bar end mirrors and riser for the front mud guard
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I did my 300 miles first service today!
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Voun! I say you got a bit of "Steve McQueen" going there!
Cheers!
Some kind of an honor for me ! But I especially would have liked to have had his Rickman !
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/08/cn4g.jpg)
(https://zupimages.net/up/24/08/sm9x.jpg)
And "We are blessed to still be riding and enjoying it" you're so right ! Hope it lasts !
Cheers !
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Another day, Another mod :o
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Thanks, I remember reading about that in other posts.
We'll see how difficult -or not- it will be to get the bolts loosened...
Worst case scenario I'll take the forks off completely and take them to the dealer.
Drink a coffee while he pulls the forks apart ;D
How's it going Re-Cycle? Nice weather is otw 🙂
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Work still not in progress :-[
Too busy with other things like work, cycling, family and friends...
I haven't ridden the Enfield since november 12th anymore (I know the exact date because of a picture I took that day). When the weather gets better I'll have to choose what to do... again. Cycling (normally priority nr.1), do some work on the bikes, take the Enfield out for a ride (getting higher on the priority list), get the tools out to install the cartridges, or do some things around the house (normally priority nr. last ;D).
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What did I do with my bike today?
Falsely accused it of leaking.
Found a drop of oil on the garage floor under the Interceptor and figured "Ugh, here we go, cheap bike, where's it leakng from?"
Got under it with a flashlight, but the bottom of the engine was cleaner than my dinner plate after a good steak.
Had parked the Bonneville in that spot the day before, and she's moist. Hmm.. just changed the oil a few weeks ago, maybe I didn't tighten something down enough.
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I installed a 1/4” pad on the bottom of my kick stand.
I made it about 50% larger than stock so the bike won’t fall over when parked in gravel or dirt.
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I have the switches, next week I will mount them, ⚡️⚡️
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I have the switches, next week I will mount them, ⚡️⚡️
Have you figured out the wiring for the 650's ? My understanding is the plugs are different and they take some testing to rewire the plugs.
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Have you figured out the wiring for the 650's ? My understanding is the plugs are different and they take some testing to rewire the plugs.
Hi, if it is the first thing I have done, with a tester check where each cable goes and make a diagram and then make the connections, it is relatively simple, then check if it fits well to the handlebar, in my case I have to make small modifications , they will be prettier than the original ones, ahh I ordered new throttle cables from Súper Meteor 650
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New mufflers.
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Finally put on new brake pads, new seat, and new exhaust. Impressed by all 3 additions. The upgraded brake pads are noticeably better, the seat is more comfortable and looks better (to me), and the exhaust has really helped the throttle response. I was planning on doing an ecu chip, but might not now. Really happy with the improved throttle response now, and for my type of riding (mostly slow lol!) I think the bike is fine...last thing I plan to do is some rear shocks...trying to decide between Ohlins or YSS...
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Finally put on new brake pads, new seat, and new exhaust. Impressed by all 3 additions. The upgraded brake pads are noticeably better, the seat is more comfortable and looks better (to me), and the exhaust has really helped the throttle response. I was planning on doing an ecu chip, but might not now. Really happy with the improved throttle response now, and for my type of riding (mostly slow lol!) I think the bike is fine...last thing I plan to do is some rear shocks...trying to decide between Ohlins or YSS...
That looks amazing 👍 A fair bit of weight saved down low as well. For rear shocks have a look at Hagon. Good price and performance and in keeping with the old Brit bike vibe.
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That looks amazing 👍 A fair bit of weight saved down low as well. For rear shocks have a look at Hagon. Good price and performance and in keeping with the old Brit bike vibe.
Thanks! Bike definitely feels more "alive." The exhaust is a little louder than I anticipated, but I'm sure I'll get used to it in no time. ;D
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Today it's time for a new look
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Ok, I'll bite: What are they?
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Today it's time for a new look
(New Grips)
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The Bridgestone Battlax BT46 tires are mounted on the bike . After having driven a 1000km on the new tires I can confirm a vast improvement compared to the stock Ceat tires, in heavy rain as well as dry driving conditions.
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Today I added a foam tank guard to the Mr Clean. Not a fan of more modern offerings, this has that retro racer vibe. Looks a bit untidy in the photo but blends in better IRL.
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The Bridgestone Battlax BT46 tires are mounted on the bike . After having driven a 1000km on the new tires I can confirm a vast improvement compared to the stock Ceat tires, in heavy rain as well as dry driving conditions.
I bought the same tires (in the same size), but have not had them mounted.
Did you have to use spacers on the front fender? Do you happen to have a picture of your bike with them mounted?
Edit: I misread your post. I ordered a 110/90-18 for the front.
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I bought the same tires (in the same size), but have not had them mounted.
Did you have to use spacers on the front fender? Do you happen to have a picture of your bike with them mounted?
Edit: I misread your post. I ordered a 110/90-18 for the front.
Have run one of those - made steering heavy. 110/80-18 is the sweet spot
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Today I changed the brake pads for EBC HH pads. Not that they were worn, just to improve braking (I hope).
The original pads are Brembo FF.
Now when I turn the wheel the brake rubs. This is not because of thicker pads, I checked and the new and old pads are of similar thickness. I did spread the pads after I mounted them, so pushed the pistons back a little.
Is this something that will sort itself after a few km's or should I have a closer look first? (and remove the wheel again).
Ofcourse I will keep a eye on it in the beginning.
Original pads:
(https://i.postimg.cc/9Qx9zw77/IMG-20240327-172802246.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
New ones:
(https://i.postimg.cc/vZ89Qtcy/IMG-20240327-172843977.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BXytpDT7)
I also removed the bolts from the fork clamps and put some anti-seize on them. Everything is mounted dry at the factory it seems...
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It's a good idea to apply the brakes while you tighten down the caliper bolts to ensure the caliper is aligned properly and so your pad doesn't drag.
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The caliper bolts have not been loose. I removed the wheel to change the pads.
Also this is a moving/floating caliper, since the inner pads are not pushed in by pistons.
But I could loosen the bolts and tighten them while applying the brake lever, worth a try.
Edit: I loosened the bolts and took the caliper off. Spread the pads again, way more than the disc thickness. So the wheel was spinning freely, until I applied the brake a few times so it settled. Than the brake rubbed again...
(I had the wheel out to start the cartridge-job. But I discovered my 8mm hex bit is too short to get to the bolts at the underside of the forks...)
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Now when I turn the wheel the brake rubs. This is not because of thicker pads, I checked and the new and old pads are of similar thickness. I did spread the pads after I mounted them, so pushed the pistons back a little.
Is this something that will sort itself after a few km's or should I have a closer look first? (and remove the wheel again).
Ofcourse I will keep a eye on it in the beginning.
It's OK for the brakes to rub a little.
It's not a bicycle, these brakes always have a little drag.
The floating caliper and the floating disc have to center themself, take it for a ride and bed in the brakes.
This isn't unusual. I'd go as far as to say I'd be suspicious if I had a shop replace the front brake pads on my motorcycle and didn't hear them skimming the rotor a little. It's normal for the pads to touch the disc a little, and it's especially audible at low speed and after a fresh install.
Now, that said, if the pads are indeed rubbing enough to slow you down or become hot when you're not using them, you should be concerned and seek to rectify the problem.
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I think the rubbing is more than is acceptable at the moment. What I don't understand is why, because the pads are not thicker compared to the old ones. I compared them before putting in the new ones, there was no significant wear.
If you push the pads/pistons back in like I did, the pistons should adjust themselves after you pull the lever a couple of times.
But when it stops raining overhere (will it ever... ::)) I'll go for a short test ride and do some braking and see if it gets better. Maybe this weekend...
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Removed the plastic chain guard from my GT650 and added the Enfield Precision chain guard from Hitchcocks. It looks great particular as I have the 2 into 1 Stinger exhaust which made the left side of the motorbike a little bare. What a pig of a job getting the 3rd screw attached. If you’ve done this job, you’ll know what I mean. Ideally, you need the hands of a small child. My knuckles should recover eventually.
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I think the rubbing is more than is acceptable at the moment. What I don't understand is why, because the pads are not thicker compared to the old ones. I compared them before putting in the new ones, there was no significant wear.
If you push the pads/pistons back in like I did, the pistons should adjust themselves after you pull the lever a couple of times.
But when it stops raining overhere (will it ever... ::)) I'll go for a short test ride and do some braking and see if it gets better. Maybe this weekend...
I did a short ride to see if the brake rubbing would become less. The brake works good, with the EBC pads. Too soon to say if they are really better than the OEM ones.
But the rubbing is still there, I think a bit more than it should be. When I let the bike roll to a stop it doesn't stop suddenly, so that is good. But the disc was warm when I got home. It's 100% flat where I live so you don't have to brake much, the disc gets plenty of time to cool down after use.
Will have a look at the floating mechanism when I have the time...
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Went for the first ride of this year last Saturday. Nice and sunny and dry roads. Sadly we got a good bit of snow two days later. I had a good spin anyway!
I met a coworker who is in his 60's. He was blown away when I told him it was a brand new bike. "I thought it was something you had restored!" He said ;D
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I did a short ride to see if the brake rubbing would become less. The brake works good, with the EBC pads. Too soon to say if they are really better than the OEM ones.
But the rubbing is still there, I think a bit more than it should be. When I let the bike roll to a stop it doesn't stop suddenly, so that is good. But the disc was warm when I got home. It's 100% flat where I live so you don't have to brake much, the disc gets plenty of time to cool down after use.
Will have a look at the floating mechanism when I have the time...
I think mine is the same as you describe. Moving the bike by hand is supple and does feel easy and "loose" btw
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I just installed a Cyclops LED bulb.
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I did a short ride to see if the brake rubbing would become less. The brake works good, with the EBC pads. Too soon to say if they are really better than the OEM ones.
But the rubbing is still there, I think a bit more than it should be. When I let the bike roll to a stop it doesn't stop suddenly, so that is good. But the disc was warm when I got home. It's 100% flat where I live so you don't have to brake much, the disc gets plenty of time to cool down after use.
Will have a look at the floating mechanism when I have the time...
Had to adjust steering head play so took the chance for a small movie but it is too large to post here im afraid 🤔 i can see if i can arrange something else to host it. Is it something that helps?
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Had to adjust steering head play so took the chance for a small movie but it is too large to post here im afraid 🤔 i can see if i can arrange something else to host it. Is it something that helps?
Could put it up on YT? Pretty easy to do.
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New front brake pads 27,000 miles....third set. EBC Double H
BC
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I think mine is the same as you describe. Moving the bike by hand is supple and does feel easy and "loose" btw
Today I went for another ride. The front brake definitely is better when you brake hard with the EBC pads.
When I got home I raised the front wheel and gave it a swing, seems a bit better now. Pads still rub but the wheel spins (a bit) longer than before the ride (70km).
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I just de-customised the indicators and rear light. Previous owner had fitted the Tec LED unit and some long thin LED indicators. LEDs may be useful to reduce current draw when running a Joe Lucas dynamo, but all they do on a modern bike is push more undesigned current through the RR unit. A couple of weeks ago I led a run to Darley Moor racing circuit, and the lads following complained they couldn't see the indicators and brake light resulting in a near miss. I looked at a friend's new Yamaha Tracer indicators and they were pretty poor also.
As I didn't get the original kit with the bike, I had to buy replacements - an original RE light unit for £17 and a set of 4 ebay indicators for under £7. I bought a flasher relay as I thought I'd need one to suit incandescent bulbs, but wasted the money as the old LED indicators had electronic units on them that worked with the original flasher relay. I think all the lights are brighter in the daylight, and are visible from more angles than just straight on. Also the big rear lamp is more "Lucas shaped" and in keeping with the retro look I wanted in the first place.
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I just de-customised the indicators and rear light. Previous owner had fitted the Tec LED unit and some long thin LED indicators. LEDs may be useful to reduce current draw when running a Joe Lucas dynamo, but all they do on a modern bike is push more undesigned current through the RR unit. A couple of weeks ago I led a run to Darley Moor racing circuit, and the lads following complained they couldn't see the indicators and brake light resulting in a near miss. I looked at a friend's new Yamaha Tracer indicators and they were pretty poor also.
As I didn't get the original kit with the bike, I had to buy replacements - an original RE light unit for £17 and a set of 4 ebay indicators for under £7. I bought a flasher relay as I thought I'd need one to suit incandescent bulbs, but wasted the money as the old LED indicators had electronic units on them that worked with the original flasher relay. I think all the lights are brighter in the daylight, and are visible from more angles than just straight on. Also the big rear lamp is more "Lucas shaped" and in keeping with the retro look I wanted in the first place.
Likely, those indicator units don't have reflectors in the body shell, like the good old days. A lot of folks put some mylar film or at least aluminum foil on the back interior. Makes a difference.
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Just installed a TKC 70 front to match the rear TKC70 Rocks.
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I just installed new grips and switches, I really like them, greetings
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I just installed new grips and switches, I really like them, greetings
Looking good 55CM1. Could you tell mw what levers those are you have? I like this too. Thanks.
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Looking good 55CM1. Could you tell mw what levers those are you have? I like this too. Thanks.
Thanks mate, the levers are from TEC, good quality, take care.
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Thanks!
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Hitchcocks have the same levers but without any logos. They are great upgrade over the stock ones and are very easy to fit.
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First ride of the season. I live in Calgary, Canada so the snow has finally melted. The City will sweep up the grit from the roads in the next couple of weeks. Today I oiled the chain, pumped up the tyres, fitted the bigger bar end mirrors and took the motorcycle for a short shake down ride around the neighbourhood. All good except for that annoying rattling from the circllip on the stinger exhaust. A bit of grease should fix that.
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Finally finished it....https://photos.app.goo.gl/1FuGWW6P787rdsn17
On the inside: 650 high comp pistons, S&S high performance cam. Approx 193 kgs wet weight, 54hp.
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Finally finished it....https://photos.app.goo.gl/1FuGWW6P787rdsn17
On the inside: 650 high comp pistons, S&S high performance cam. Approx 193 kgs wet weight, 54hp.
Beautiful. Cases need a polish! What shocks are those?
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Beautiful. Cases need a polish! What shocks are those?
Race Tech on the rear....pricey but well worth it!!
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Race Tech on the rear....pricey but well worth it!!
Nice. Racetech is a good outfit. I see they come in piggyback style too with compression adjustment. I might have gone for those instead of the YSS if I had known they existed.
Would you happen to know what rate springs they put on those? I'm curious because I recently ordered custom linear springs for my YSS ($$$) and had to guesstimate the rate.
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Installed a side bag instead of the cover
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Nice. Racetech is a good outfit. I see they come in piggyback style too with compression adjustment. I might have gone for those instead of the YSS if I had known they existed.
Would you happen to know what rate springs they put on those? I'm curious because I recently ordered custom linear springs for my YSS ($$$) and had to guesstimate the rate.
Hey Yellow Duck...does this help... ;-)
Spring Main:1.8
Preload: 15mm
Sag; 34
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Installed a side bag instead of the cover
Ooooooh very nice! By the way, would appreciate when you get some time:
- a couple of pics of that seat to check proportions in relation to the bike
- what do you thing of it....good, meh...crap?
Have seen it before but nothing beats real world feedback. Thanks in advance.. ;-)
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Ooooooh very nice! By the way, would appreciate when you get some time:
- a couple of pics of that seat to check proportions in relation to the bike
- what do you thing of it....good, meh...crap?
Kind of a mixed bag for me with 1,92 m. Seat is the widest of all RE seats for the Interceptor but it’s flatter (about an 2 cm) than the other comfort seat I have.