Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: iron.head on November 28, 2013, 02:33:28 pm
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Hi everyone
Lately a few noises from my bike's engine have increased a bit and causing me the trouble of looking into them.
I have been replacing oil every 3k and giving a 20-25 sec warm-up time to the bike every time when I ride it after a few hours of standing.
I think that the sound is coming from the head of my bike but am not so sure about it.
Can the gearheads here please help me by pointing towards the source of the noise if possible so that I can have some information about it before taking it to the local RE workshop mechanic.
Audio files are available here:
https://soundcloud.com/achint-agarwal/voice-002
https://soundcloud.com/achint-agarwal/voice-001
Thanks!
Aditya
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Are you referring to those little clicking noises which sound like the valve clatter in an Iron Barrel engine?
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yes! This clicking noise was not there few months back and is quite loud now. Also the frequency of this noise increases and decreases with the amount of throttle use. There is another noise which might not be easily audible in this recording. It is like some rolling parts are rubbing with each other and creating noise. I have been listening to engine noise and both the noises seem bad and were not there few months back.
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How hard do you ride? Have you ever pinned it at redline? It's hard saying from the sound clip but to me it kind of sounds like a little bit of rod knock. Are you sure the noise is coming from the "head" of the motor and not from the "case" of the motor?
Scottie
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Well, it's hard to diagnose these things from sound bites, but it sounds to me like the lifters might be having a problem. This could also be caused by oil supply problems to the lifters, because they need good oil pressure to work properly.
If it is an oil supply problem, then it might also be affecting the bearings or other moving parts, and might be a cause of that other noise you are hearing. The other noise might be a rod knock, as Scottie J points out, but I can't really say for sure.
I think it should be looked at by a qualified RE mechanic, since it might be covered under warranty.
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Yeah I hear it for sure with headphones on. I don't have a C5 but I wouldn't think it should sound like that.....How many miles on the bike? It really does sound rough like something banging while at idle and then louder and it follows the throttle ( audio 2)..I'm more concern about that vice the valve clatter...Check for the obvious stuff like is the engine and exhaust secure, etc...Is it still under warranty?
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That's a great point Ace. If something has failed in the oiling system it could cause noises from several places inside the motor. Has the performance of the bike been affected at all? If there is in fact an oiling problem it should be causing a lot more moving friction inside the motor causing it to lose HP and the ability to rev freely.
Scottie
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Thanks everyone for the replies. My daily ride is very sedate and once in 3-4 weeks I ride on the highways with full throttle use maxing at 110-115 kmph. I have tried to observe this noise few times and it always seems to be coming from the head of the bike.
Oil level has always been around the max mark on the oil window but how do I ensure that there are no oil supply problems? The RE mechanics here sadly don't know much about UCE breed of enfields and can replace parts with some guidance.
One of my friends told me that the rolling noise is from the cams/cam sleeves. I will take my bike to RE workshop next week and get back with the results.
Also to add that the performance of the bike is as crisp as it was on day 1 and the acceleration is very good. No oil consumption and FE is also good. Also the noise from the engine does not increase after hard riding other than these 2 noises which are always there even when riding slow and sedate. The bike will be considered under warranty and has completed 11000 kms.
Thanks!
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If it was my machine, I wouldn't be driving it until I resolved the problem. A oil supply problem should be relatively easy to diagnose, Its that awful knocking that would concern me... :-\
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There have been 2 verified oil supply issues which might happen in UCE engines.
One is the partial blockage of an oil feed hole at the junction of the engine case and timing side cover, near the top. This blockage reportedly was cause by some RTV silicone getting where it should not have been.
The other condition is caused by some O-ring that can be done wrong during a routine maintenance process. I forget exactly what the O-ring is, but I'm sure that some of the UCE owners here will know what it is.
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How many miles on the bike?
Scott
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I will get it checked if there is any blockage where ace is telling or if some O-ring is stuck somewhere. Bike has done around 6800 miles.
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I haven't listened to the sounds yet, but I'm curious to see if it sounds like mine.
I think I just read a thread where somebody was complaining about engine noise which could have been evidence of an oil flow problem? They changed the oil and filter and the noises went away...
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Hi everyone
Lately a few noises from my bike's engine have increased a bit and causing me the trouble of looking into them.
I have been replacing oil every 3k and giving a 20-25 sec warm-up time to the bike every time when I ride it after a few hours of standing.
I think that the sound is coming from the head of my bike but am not so sure about it.
Can the gearheads here please help me by pointing towards the source of the noise if possible so that I can have some information about it before taking it to the local RE workshop mechanic.
Audio files are available here:
https://soundcloud.com/achint-agarwal/voice-002
https://soundcloud.com/achint-agarwal/voice-001
Thanks!
Aditya
It DOES sound like a lifter/rod tapping away...... I was thinking that your idle was low, which MAY effect oil pressure and how fast the lifter's fill on a cold start. But ... the noise doesn't go away as you rev the bike. Bad Lifter ?.... Oil supply ?.... a hung up auto-decomp and the roller lifter is jumping over the pin on the exhaust cam base circle ?.......
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The #1 file had what sounded like piston clatter at first. Was the engine warm, or just started up? Later on the clank was gone as if the engine had warmed up enough to get the clearances right.
If that is the case, I wouldn't worry too much about it as it sounded fine after it had run awhile. These engines are noisy. If it bothers you, get some good earplugs!
#2 sounded fine all the way through.
Bare
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+1
20-25 sec warm up is short. ECU needs a good 60 seconds before it is ready to perform. About the time one needs to put on gloves, helmet and close the front door. ;)
Honestly I don't hear anything that would give me cause to concern. It sounds like a cold engine in cold weather, is that correct? These engines have more play than the competition but that's what makes them so robust and willing to go on where others drop. And since you report no loss of function, the bullet performing as well as it did before you started worrying about noises... :-\
Based on your statement your next oil change is about due. That would be a good time to be extra diligent checking the old oil, cleaning and carefully reinstalling new filter, ring.
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This clicking noise was not there few months back and is quite loud now. Also the frequency of this noise increases and decreases with the amount of throttle use.
I've listened to the audio files several times with headphones on. There is one sound that sticks out for me. Its an interesting long shot for the ticking metalic noise... but...
At the very end of the files where you shut the engine off, I hear a rattling ping like a group of keys on a keyring in the ignition. Did you put some new keys on the ring with your ignition key recently? That sound can be heard all through the recording if you listen carefully. I might be pulling at strings, its hard to diagnose the engine without being there.
Take a wooden spoon from the kitchen and place one end on your ear and the other on various parts of the engine while it is running to try and isolate where the sound is coming from. Low budget mechanic's stethoscope. Patented in Canada lol!
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once in 3-4 weeks I ride on the highways with full throttle use maxing at 110-115 kmph
For how long do you keep it at those speeds?
From the sound clips, as others have mentioned it is hard to tell, but there is definitely some noticeable clicking. Did you record in an enclosed space? Also, in the service manual it says that the ECU requires 90 seconds before the oxygen sensor comes into play. But this can be 90 +/- 15 seconds.
Considering that the 'sound' has recently increased, I would go with what GHG has said...bad lifter, oil passage issue etc. Hopefully, the 'problem', will be sorted out when you take the bike to the workshop. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Engine was warm enough(ridden for 5-7 kms) when the audio recording was done. My bike does not have the oxygen sensor but I will start giving some more warm up time now onwards.
There is definitely some issue with the bike which I will get inspected in next 2 weeks and get back with the results here.
Thanks to everybody! Cheers!
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Sounds just like mine has sounded since I bought it new. Interesting that the O2 sensor isn't coming into play in your case.
I have no idea if it's relevant, but your idle speed is only slightly over 800 rpms - much lower than spec. Has it always been so low? Lots of people (but not everyone) think my noise is the decompressor; if mine clatters at 1100 rpms, yours certainly could be clattering at 800.
Unless it isn't the decomp at all - I'll be watching this thread with interest - please let us know the results of your inspection!
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My bike does not have the oxygen sensor but I will start giving some more warm up time now onwards.
Ah, so I'm presuming yours is the Indian domestic market Classic 500/350, which has a carb? Or it has an ECU :o without the oxygen sensor. This can't be right though? :o
@mattsz
My idle RPM is in the same region, however the decomp clatter is only present during a cold start or if the bike has been sitting for a couple of hours. During summer, the decomp clatter on cold starts reduces significantly for me.
As you've mentioned, it will be great to know the result/cause of this issue and hopefully you'll also be able to sort it out, as I am sure you probably have the same issue also.
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Ah, so I'm presuming yours is the Indian domestic market Classic 500/350, which has a carb? Or it has an ECU :o without the oxygen sensor. This can't be right though? :o
@mattsz
My idle RPM is in the same region, however the decomp clatter is only present during a cold start or if the bike has been sitting for a couple of hours. During summer, the decomp clatter on cold starts reduces significantly for me.
As you've mentioned, it will be great to know the result/cause of this issue and hopefully you'll also be able to sort it out, as I am sure you probably have the same issue also.
The Indian market EFI bikes are open loop, and have no O2 sensors. This created a rich running problem early after initial release, but they have said that they have re-mapped them to be better now. They still have no O2 sensor.
Low rpm at idle is not good for these UCE bikes, for the reasons of the auto-decompressor cut-in speed at 900 rpm(approximately), and the need for strong oil supply to the lifters' hydraulic operation.
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Tom, thanks for clarifying that the domestic EFI REs are open-loop. I had read that on the Indian RE/Team-BHP forums before, but couldn't remember. :-X
Also, I understand that low idle RPM is not good for UCE bikes. However, by low I meant RPM which is around 950 (approx) and less than 1300. The idle spec for UCEs is 1050 +/- 250 RPM. Mine is approximately around 900~950. The decomp clatters on cold starts for less than 30 seconds. But I don't even let that happen as I just kickstart it holding the 'manual bi-starter' and keep holding it for those 30 secs till the oil gets going. Depends on the weather too - sometimes I only need to hold the bi-starter for 5 seconds or less (on cold-starts) and then I let it go = nice thump thump thump around 950RPM. This is what works for me. ;)
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Also while we were on the idle RPM issue, listen to this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jku-OXow3Ns It is the domestic standard 350 UCE with carb. Now, that idle just sounds like what Iron Barrels are known for doing easily. That is surely around 800-850RPM. I can't hear any decomp clatter there albeit piston slap? And I am 100% sure if I had to lower my idle just a bit more, the auto-decomp would kick in and start its clack clack clack even if the engine was warm/hot. Interesting.
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Tom, thanks for clarifying that the domestic EFI REs are open-loop. I had read that on the Indian RE/Team-BHP forums before, but couldn't remember. :-X
Also, I understand that low idle RPM is not good for UCE bikes. However, by low I meant RPM which is around 950 (approx) and less than 1300. The idle spec for UCEs is 1050 +/- 250 RPM. Mine is approximately around 900~950. The decomp clatters on cold starts for less than 30 seconds. But I don't even let that happen as I just kickstart it holding the 'manual bi-starter' and keep holding it for those 30 secs till the oil gets going. Depends on the weather too - sometimes I only need to hold the bi-starter for 5 seconds or less (on cold-starts) and then I let it go = nice thump thump thump around 950RPM. This is what works for me. ;)
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Also while we were on the idle RPM issue, listen to this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jku-OXow3Ns It is the domestic standard 350 UCE with carb. Now, that idle just sounds like what Iron Barrels are known for doing easily. That is surely around 800-850RPM. I can't hear any decomp clatter there albeit piston slap? And I am 100% sure if I had to lower my idle just a bit more, the auto-decomp would kick in and start its clack clack clack even if the engine was warm/hot. Interesting.
Well, that video is certainly a low rpm idle!
I understand it's a cult thing that has developed there over the years. They do it with the Iron Barrels too. And they lug it down the boulevard in top gear at similarly low rpms too.
I gave up trying to talk sense to them about it.
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Also while we were on the idle RPM issue, listen to this - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jku-OXow3Ns It is the domestic standard 350 UCE with carb. Now, that idle just sounds like what Iron Barrels are known for doing easily. That is surely around 800-850RPM. I can't hear any decomp clatter there albeit piston slap? And I am 100% sure if I had to lower my idle just a bit more, the auto-decomp would kick in and start its clack clack clack even if the engine was warm/hot. Interesting.
The idle speed in iron.head's audio samples is 800 rpm, or just a hair over. I counted... ;)
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Haaaaaaaa right just a hair....I listened to both e clip again..It's giving me a headache and my wife is shouting to put the headphones on....GM
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If it helps...... the auto-comp SHOULD be done, doing it's thing around 350 RPM's. The pin should drop back into the groove in the cam at that point.....
I would think that, you would not want the bike idling with that thing cracking open the exhaust valve and burning it.... IF the bike were to idle at all with the reduced compression. Just a thought...
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It wasn't as loud or clanky as my decomp was. And it didn't follow the rpm changes like that one does. If fact, if you revved it like he did, it would quit clanking. I'll stick with cold piston theory.
Bare
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I'd say if it's under warranty - use the patented Waymond C. Edwards engine noise diagnostic theory. If you run it as hard as it'll go, as fast as it'll go and as long as it'll go - the problem will either become blatantly obvious or go away altogether. Either way - you win. Just sayin' ...... ;)
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It wasn't as loud or clanky as my decomp was. And it didn't follow the rpm changes like that one does. If fact, if you revved it like he did, it would quit clanking. I'll stick with cold piston theory.
Bare
Well, lets hope the mechanic that looks at it, puts in as much thought into this as WE ALL do. ;)
Ummmmmmmmmmm ?....... You could be right Bare ? I DO hear what you are hearing. That hollow..... slug in a jug sound. Which could be the piston slapping around a bit ? But, that hollow sound could also be that he has the mic next to the header or exhaust.
What I think I hear, along with what you are hearing is a lifter tick that turns to a clatter. Weather thats the piston clattering around as the RPM's go up?....... Or is it the Valve train ? Anyways...... I sure hope the bike is not running with the auto-decomp activated.
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It doesn't sound "clackity" enough to be the decompression device. At least on the few times my G5 had the auto-decompression thing stick on very cold mornings it went clack, clack, clack, at half engine speed. It also quit if I revved the engine up just a little and once it was gone, it didn't return.
I hear a number of different sounds and I'm sure the mike is being moved around to different places.
I hear the tickity tickity of the valves, the thump thump of the exhaust and occassionally a hollow thunking sound that sounds like piston slap. I think I read the bike had been ridden before these recordings were made so the piston should have expanded making the piston slap guess unlikely.
Because there are so many different tappity, clickity, thumpity's going on, it sounds like a case for the Hose-ear.
I know you old timers already know this but, if one takes a short length of garden hose and holds one end to their ear, they can move the other end around to various strategic places to get a better definition of where the noise is coming from.
Sounds from the rocker arm areas would be valve clearance, sounds from the cylinder (front and back) might be a loose piston, clunking sounds from lower down on the crankcase may be bad bearings, whirring sounds from the crankcase are roller or ball bearings...etc....etc
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Enough to drive a man CrAzY listening to a recording, without seeing it, touching it, and hearing it all at once.... Riding it ! A owner knows his bike , and knows when it's right, or when it's not.........
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+1 and I don't own a domestic 350cc UCE either so I can only add to the confusion...
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My G5 is also developing similar bad engine noise, more pronounced than C5 of ironhead.
The sound is less when engine is cold and oil is thick, but more when the engine is hot after riding several miles as in the link below -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdAGt_s07XA
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Rattle and tick..... Rev it Singh.
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Contagious? It must be the plague... :o
Bring out your dead...
...Pie Jesu Domine, dona nobis pacem
(Monty Python & The Holy Grail)
By the way, last week I made a video because I had installed a new mount for the camera. All's well until I played the video at home. Probably under the influence of this thread I started to worry about the engine noise. The mic of a camera is but the mic of a camera.
Sorry, I remain a non-believer. ;)
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Rattle and tick..... Rev it Singh.
Between 28 to 50 seconds of video, I hear a resonating tuning fork sound as if a hollow bell was getting struck repeatedly.
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Actually that sounds pretty good compared to Ironhead ;)
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My G5 is also developing similar bad engine noise, more pronounced than C5 of ironhead.
The sound is less when engine is cold and oil is thick, but more when the engine is hot after riding several miles as in the link below -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BdAGt_s07XA
Between 28 to 50 seconds of video, I hear a resonating tuning fork sound as if a hollow bell was getting struck repeatedly.
Yeah, I hear that little bit of ringing now Singh. Thats not your rear head steady mount, or your pipe is it ? This is a new sound, and you didn't hear it in the summer when the oil would thin out quicker?..... Using thinner oil for the winter ?
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Yeah, I hear that little bit of ringing now Singh. Thats not your rear head steady mount, or your pipe is it ? This is a new sound, and you didn't hear it in the summer when the oil would thin out quicker?..... Using thinner oil for the winter ?
Same oil as in summer. There was no sound in summer. Pipe and head mount seem OK.
Tried to use a tube to hear running engine. I put one end of a rolled up large paper into a tube to my ear and other end to different parts of engine. No doubt the sound was louder (all sounds magnify) with this 'stethoscope'. A baseline sound is needed to compare the 'before' and 'after'.
The closest recording of 'before' is in the link below, which has music but engine sound is clear between 0:35 to 1:35.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HV_K5O25w6A
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FWIW, it sounds to me like a piston slapping at idle.
How many miles on the engine?
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FWIW, it sounds to me like a piston slapping at idle.
How many miles on the engine?
About 30,000 miles.
A little background - On a cold morning when I had started the engine, it was barely thumping, seemed like it was about to quit. I was a couple of feet away from bike. I rushed to throttle and abruptly opened it to give more gas, but the engine stalled. The sound started after that. At that time it seemed the sprag had broken with a 'CLUNK'. I took out the sprag clutch and now have a new one in the engine. But the sound is there which was not there before.
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Singh, you could try a compression test. Do it using the starter, with a fully charged battery....hopefully the auto decomp won't skew the readings this way. Disconnect the fuel pump and throttle wide open when you do it..... see what you get.
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I would say ride it over to Chumma, and let him check it out, and see what he can do for you.
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Singh, you could try a compression test. Do it using the starter, with a fully charged battery....hopefully the auto decomp won't skew the readings this way. Disconnect the fuel pump and throttle wide open when you do it..... see what you get.
Yes, make sure you hold the throttle wide open while doing it. I always forget that part and wonder why my reading is so low. The manual says something like 110psi as the spec but I've found my bike reads consistently around 130psi with the electric start. I suspect the lower reading might be if you're using the kick start for the test.
Scott
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Singh, you could try a compression test. Do it using the starter, with a fully charged battery....hopefully the auto decomp won't skew the readings this way. Disconnect the fuel pump and throttle wide open when you do it..... see what you get.
And when I say disconnect the fuel pump..... I mean electrically... Sorry, unplug it.... So you're not spraying fuel in as you test.