[AzCal Retred]

Thanks for the kind words about Red October. Painfully stock except for HD cables, sticky(ier) front brake shoes, new Dunlop K70 3.50x19's and that K&N. I like it.

Sounds like an EZ "lap 'n go" procedure and you'll be back in 'bidness! Bye the bye - these motors don't run valve stem seals, so another thing not to worry about.

 

[Bilgemaster]

Thanks for the kind words about Red October. Painfully stock except for HD cables, sticky(ier) front brake shoes, new Dunlop K70 3.50x19's and that K&N. I like it.

Sounds like an EZ "lap 'n go" procedure and you'll be back in 'bidness! Bye the bye - these motors don't run valve stem seals, so another thing not to worry about.

A good healthy and relaxed "painfully stock" is GOOD,  AzCal. It's when you start tweaking this or that in half-measures, trying to eke out that extra ½ pony, but never really going the Full Monty, that doom is imminent.

Besides, your bike looks just fabulous. That saddle REALLY suits it. I wouldn't change a damned thing.

[tooseevee]

Thanks all for your suggestions, the riding course is a definite must. I’ve ridden but never on the streets, and I’d like to live a long boring life.  Pulled the head and clearly the valves have been hitting the piston. So at least I’ve got a starting point, I’ll disassemble the head tomorrow and see if the valves are bent and go from there. ACR, that air filter looks pretty decent actually. I wouldn’t of thought it would look as good when you see the filter in a catalog. Very slick looking bike.

           Those recesses aren't caused by the valves banging into the piston. It would have totally destroyed both valves. Those recesses are in the piston to preVENT valves (high-lift or other reason) from hitting the piston.

           Or am I not seeing what you're seeing?  (I've been up since 3:30AM).

[ddavidv]

No, he's not talking about the cut-in reliefs. I can see the outline of where the valves have hit the piston or vice-versa. It's pretty safe to assume both valves will be bent.

This is eerily similar to the project bike I wound up with as my own. Mine had dropped a valve seat, which broke the valve, which damaged the piston that Jack built. I bought a new piston but sourced a good used head from Hitchcocks as there were some sketchy things about my existing one around the guide.




Like you I had experience working on cars and other things with engines but had never dove into a motorcycle. The Bullet was the perfect project. I found it extremely easy to work on and the parts were mostly inexpensive. Since getting it back together it has been dependable and a ton of fun to ride...provided I don't desire to go over 50-55 mph!
I have a few videos about mine and am now working on another one:  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCaMoMSTzl47igkD-VnVdtwQ?view_as=subscriber

My one caution going forward is that the torque specs should be considered the absolute maximum. I'd actually go a smidge lower than what is recommended in the Snidal manual. The Indian alloy tends to be 'soft' and it is easy to pull out threads in the castings.

[DavidGraves]

Hello Seth

Could you sometime try to post another image particularly of the muffler side of your bike ?

Also, I noticed the rear turn indicators are the smaller bullet style....does anyone know of a source for the stalks for these ?

Thanks

David Graves

[heloego]

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Indicators-Lighting

[cyrusb]

Hi Seth, that vented front brake backing plate, battery placement and that alloy terminal strip cover reminds me of a bike that was on this forum years ago.  If so, it may be a bit more modified than you think. Well done on the buy. C

[AzCal Retred]

What keen eyes you have Cyrusb! I covet a vented front brake backing plate...

More pix Wacopilot, the enthusiasts see a kindred spirit! -ACR-

[Wacopilot]

Good morning gentlemen, again wanted to say thanks for the input, it’s been very helpful, seems like a great bunch of guys here. ACR, I will repair the choke lever, I was surprised you could order that, I’m use to having to replace a complete unit because a 2 dollar part breaks these days. So that’s refreshing. Ordering new valves and such to fix that issue, going to pull the barrel and piston to clean up that and dress the piston where the valves hit. It’s not heavy contact so a light dressing should eliminate the edge from that. I’ll check the cam timing also, who knows what the PO did to get to this point, the push rods were about 5 turn to tight so I’m wondering why he’d adjust them that far out. Here are some more pics of the exhaust it had, front brakes and a more detailed picture of the piston damage. Thanks again for your help guys.

[Wacopilot]

Exhaust it came with but I hate the look, I like original so that’s what’s going back on.

[Adrian II]

The standard battery mounting is on the right hand side of the bike, so if that's where yours lives now a previous owner probably fitted one of Hitchcocks' battery relocation kits, was there same sort of cover with it?

I agree the muffler doesn't suit the look of the bike, something like this might. Don't let the description fool you these fit the 1.75" diameter exhaust pipes,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-EXHAUST-SILENCER-SUITABLE-FOR-ROYAL-ENFIELD-ELECTRA-pummy/372643107617?hash=item56c3429321:g:~hUAAOxyOM5RaCHu

A.

[cyrusb]

How about a shot of the combustion chamber with the valves in? I'm puzzled how the valves hit the piston OUTSIDE the clearance cuts. Are they oversize?

[DavidGraves]

Thanks Seth for the images....

While all the gearheads assist you with the real issues would you kindly measure the overall width of the rear turn signals...?

I have a 2006 Classic that I am trying to bring back and need to know that width.

Many thanks

David Graves 

[heloego]

Before you finish I strongly recommend going to the nasty trouble of removing all the shit tape from the electrical harness, thoroughly inspect the wiring, replace any POS crimped splices with decent heat shrinkable connectors, and re-wrap the harness with a good wire loom. Not that split plastic ribbed loom but a quality type.
Wire Loom:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=Wire+Loom&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

It's reasonably priced, easier to work with, and looks a hell of a lot better. 

Heat Shrink Connectors:
https://smile.amazon.com/120PCS-Solder-Seal-Wire-Connectors/dp/B07S62KYSL/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2OTWVKM83CW1&dchild=1&keywords=heat+shrink+butt+connectors&qid=1596318790&sprefix=Heat+Shrink+%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4
 

[AzCal Retred]

 >>From Wacopilot: "ACR, I will repair the choke lever, I was surprised you could order that, I’m use to having to replace a complete unit because a 2 dollar part breaks these days. So that’s refreshing." <<

That's why I have a Bullet - Hitchcocks makes it affordable & painless to explore 1940's motorcycling. Order anything you need, no machine shop required to keep the old girl running. For example - yesterday I pulled my points apart fearlessly and detailed them out, no worries about losing some tiny voodoo unobtainium bakelite spacer or hand rebuilding the contact point surfaces with silver solder drips and a file. To make it interesting I replaced the worn-out point cam oiler felt with a scrap cut from an old wool sock - high tech, eh?  I love points/coil ignition; it's on-road repairable using a stick for piston position and your eyeballs. The folks making real power out of these have different requirements, but for me they works well. 

That Mikarb is the same - too basic to give any real trouble, just keep out dirt & water. Hitchcocks carries all the bits for it. Not much reason to change it until the "mo' powah!" bug bites hard.

As regards cam shafts & timing, Ace has written authoritatively & extensively on it this forum and has some great ideas on phasing. Sounds like your shop is pretty well equipped, so I'm guessing a dial indicator is readily accessible. Hitch's has a (+/-) 4 degree pinion that ACE works miracles with, providing you dial in the valve gear properly and check your valve clearances. I think it'd be fun for you, and your "65" is already apart.....  -ACR-