[ideola]

In this thread, I wrote up a step by step instruction for creating a mounting bracket to install a Beeline Moto nav pod above the factory gauge clusters. It worked great on both my Interceptor and Continental GT...until I installed the Autologue Reck 2.1 faring on the CGT. The problem I encountered last night on the maiden voyage with the new kit is that the windscreen on the faring blocks the view of the Beeline above the gauges...in fact, it also blocks the top of the OEM gauges in certain seating positions. This led me to look for a better solution.

I recalled that when I replaced the OEM clip-on handle bars that there is a little part that the parts book calls a "Drop Link" (part number RAL00048, callout #7 on page 17 of the CGT parts book). Here's a pic:


This little clip is intended to "index" the clip-on riser to the upper triple clamp such that the "pin" on the clip-on riser stays put, maintains correct height relative to the triple clamp, and the position of the handlebars is consistent side to side. Each "drop link" is held in place by the two Allen head pinch bolts, in the upper hole by the triple clamp fork pinch bolt, and in the lower hole by the clip-on riser fork pinch bolt.

I have removed the OEM handlebars in favor of Hitchcocks' most excellent clip-on kit. This kit is lighter than OEM, lower than OEM by ~3.5", more adjustable with respect to swing back position as well as length, offers a more aggressive downward slant to the bars, eliminates the ridonkulous OEM bar end nonsense allowing easier fitment of aftermarket bar end mirrors and weights, all in keeping with a more aggressive café look. (FWIW, I did not have to use shorter cables on my 650 despite what Hitchcocks' site says).

As a result, my original clip-on risers and their companion "drop links" were lying unused in the spares bin.


I got to looking at one of the extra Beeline ram mounts that I no longer need since developing the aforementioned top-side bracket.





Eureka!

[ideola]

After disassembling the pod mount from the ball holder, I found a 12mm M5 Allen butten head socket screw with a matching nylock nut and two M5 spring washers. These style washers are about half the thickness of a standard washer, and the "wave" in them applies just enough tension so that the head of the mount can be adjusted without having to resort to tools. In this photo, you also see the larger M8 Allen head pinch bolt for the main triple clamp.


The next trick was how to get just the right thickness so that the "drop link" can be tensioned at the pinch bolt. For this, we need an M8 spring washer.


I found that I needed to flatten it out with a hammer on a hard surface. After doing so, I was able to gently tap it into position into the "pinch" opening of the triple clamp using a very thin bladed screw driver between the pinch gap, and then using a suitably sized Phillips head screw driver to get the holes aligned for reinstallation of the main pinch bolt. I then positioned the "drop link" at the desired angle and reinstalled the main pinch bolt, of course applying factory-specified torque. The final step was to position the pod mount at the desired angle, in my case to block the view of that hideous silver top nut in the sea of beautiful black under that beautiful smoked windscreen.

[ideola]

Here you can see the position of my original mount way up under the faring/windscreen and above the gauges as compared to the new position directly above the main stem nut.


Next time I have the faring off, I will remove the earlier mount. For now, I've folded it down and (mostly) out of view from the rider's seat. If you look closely, it appears I unwittingly made a self portrait during the process.


Closeup


I normally have the key inserted opposite to what is shown above such that the fob doesn't interfere with the stem nut where I used to have the Hitchcocks' stem nut clock mounted. But I couldn't resist showing off the MLG theme  I now need to find another solution for mounting the stem nut clock, as it is a very classy piece, and I value having an analog time piece in view while out on longer rides. I may just 3M sticky tape it to the triple clamp to the right of the Beeline...unless I can come up with a more clever solution.

To be clear, it's not necessary to use the OEM "drop link" part to implement this mouting arrangement, as it would be child's play to fabricate a custom piece that performed the same function. However, this piece is what inspired me, it was quick and easy to implement since I had it on hand, and I was feeling too lazy this morning to cut some bar stock and drill the necessary holes.

[Toontje]

Nicely found solution. Only now you need to look down to have a look at the Beeline where in side the fairing, between the clocks, you could have the Beeline in sight always.
I like the solution you found, it looks and fits better, but i see that as sufficient inconvenient to keep my Beeline between the clocks.

[ideola]

Nicely found solution. Only now you need to look down to have a look at the Beeline where in side the fairing, between the clocks, you could have the Beeline in sight always.
I like the solution you found, it looks and fits better, but i see that as sufficient inconvenient to keep my Beeline between the clocks.

The problem I have with it there is that it is NOT in view, I have to "duck" to see under the windscreen in order to see the nav pod, even when sitting as far back as possible on the seat.

The other problem I personally have with it way it under the windscreen is that it is harder for me to quickly read it because the contrast is not as good under the faring  and my old eyes are losing ability to focus on small details in dim light. On the stem nut, yes, I have to quickly glance down, but I am able to instantly read the prompt. Not so up under the windscreen.

One nice thing about the Reck windscreen is that it virtually eliminates all glare from the gauge glass and chrome bezels.

[ideola]

Solution found for the stem-mount clock, utilizing the prior Beeline Moto mount.

This is a photo of nav pod mounting head disassembled; the twist-lock pod mount portion and the tiny screw are not needed for this solution, just the swivel head piece on the left with the captive nut:


This is a closeup photo of the outer housing of the stem nut clock after I bored out the pre-existing center hole; it is sized to create a big enough lip that the screw will drop into the bore, and the depth is sufficient for enough threads of the small screw will secure the housing to the captive nut in the swivel head; the screw was salvaged from an old electronic device collecting dust in my basement:


THis is a photo of the clock housing affixed to the nav pod swivel head:


This is a photo of it mounted above the OEM gauges:


The diameter of the clock face is slightly smaller than that of the nav pod; consequently, it can be positioned in such a way that I do not have to tilt my head or duck down to see the entire clock face. The nav pod is in a better location for my old eyes to be able to quickly gather the information it is presenting to me. It is no more inconvenient than checking one's rearview mirrors.

Part of the problem I've had with the nav pod display is that when I'm driving through dense shade, pointing directly into the sun, or with it positioned up under the Reck windscreen, I have difficulty distinguishing some of the numbers (e.g., is it saying next turn in 5 miles or 6 miles? Is that a 0 or an 8? Part of this issue is related to the way the unit displays numbers, but most of it has to do with the small size of the numbers, super-low or super-high contrast lighting, and the ability of my old eyes to rapidly adjust and focus on said small numbers in said lighting conditions. It's not a huge problem, probably only an issue <10% of my typical ride, but it's enough of one that I've noticed it. This location will be better on this particular bike.

[Toontje]

The problem I have with it there is that it is NOT in view, I have to "duck" to see under the windscreen in order to see the nav pod, even when sitting as far back as possible on the seat.

The other problem I personally have with it way it under the windscreen is that it is harder for me to quickly read it because the contrast is not as good under the faring  and my old eyes are losing ability to focus on small details in dim light. On the stem nut, yes, I have to quickly glance down, but I am able to instantly read the prompt. Not so up under the windscreen.

The only issue i have having the Beeline between the clocks is that i cannot use the side buttons. Only for the clock, basically. I would love to have a tiny clock in the bottom part of the screen. But then again, you cannot ask for everything.
BTW, did you see the update last weekend? I'm looking for release notes, but i cannot find them. They only release the release notes for the mobile phone software, not for the device software.

[ideola]

The only issue i have having the Beeline between the clocks is that i cannot use the side buttons. Only for the clock, basically. I would love to have a tiny clock in the bottom part of the screen. But then again, you cannot ask for everything.
BTW, did you see the update last weekend? I'm looking for release notes, but i cannot find them. They only release the release notes for the mobile phone software, not for the device software.

I never use any of the buttons when it's mounted on the bike, so that's not been an issue for me. Haven't seen the update release notes...

[Toontje]

Haven't seen the update release notes...

Neither did i. I sent Support an e-mail but as i mentioned before, Support is on permanent holidays.

[Cube]

Rather than go with any of the perfectly good solutions that have been posted here, I decided to put too much effort into 3D printing one of my own. It attaches between the gauge cluster and cluster bracket.





I'm reasonably happy with it, though it does require me to deflect the windscreen slightly in order to press the on/off button. You can find the model at Thingiverse if you'd like to print your own.

[ideola]

Well done! Bravo!

[JessHerbst]

Love it , thanks for the link to the file. Even more thanks if you made the file!

[Toontje]

Rather than go with any of the perfectly good solutions that have been posted here, I decided to put too much effort into 3D printing one of my own. It attaches between the gauge cluster and cluster bracket.

Very nicely done!! I don't have a 3D printer, so can you sell me one?

[Ruddigger]

Love it , thanks for the link to the file. Even more thanks if you made the file!

Dont bother printing it if you plan on running that fairing. The windscreen will block it completely.

[JessHerbst]

Dont bother printing it if you plan on running that fairing. The windscreen will block it completely.

The C-Racer? I have it but its still in the paint shop.