I just recieved my metalastic bushings from Hitchcocks, and in reading the UCE installation instructions which were included, it says using the "standard pivot bolt" with one included washer on each side, tighten the pivot bolt to 25 lb/ft (3.5kg/m).
That's less than 1/2 the torque (52 lb/ft) I thought was required! Maybe metalastic needs less than nylon?
It also mentions potentially "dressing" swing arm "counterbores" to accept the "bobbins" (bushings?) To be paralell to within 0.010 inch... I'll have to think about that one!
Maybe I'll email them for clarification tomorrow.
The cross tube on the swing -ing-ing arm is just that ... a tube. That's the "pipe" section of the swing arm that goes between the frame at the front.... there are no counter bores it's just a pipe. That pipe can use some cleaning with a flap wheel or emery cloth to clean out the rust and crap in there before you press, or draw in the bushings. A little grease on the surfaces goes a long way here....
Press or draw them in , as mentioned earlier, so that equal amount stick out each side. The bushings will " butt" in the middle of the cross tube. Stick the washers on the each side of the swing arm , between the swing arm and the frame when you slide the pivot bolt through.. And torque it down like they say, or how I described earlier.. .
It going to be a metal to metal contact now... with a washer in the middle.... so you don't have to murder it.
If you want to get crazy like me ? You can drill and tap in a couple of grease fittings on the left and right side of that swing arm cross tube , near each end. And give them a shot of grease whenever you change your oil. And you'll likely never have to worry about your swing arm bushes or a worn pivot bolt again. I have a picture of it somewhere on the forum here ?......