Author Topic: 1959 Indian Trailblazer  (Read 18600 times)

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TonyVanda

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on: May 23, 2022, 09:41:24 am
Yeah mate, I'm picking up my 1959 Indian Trailblazer in the morning. It's coming over from Tasmania and i pick it up at the terminal at 6am. Brrrr, it'll be cold. Cant wait to get it in the shed and give it the once over.

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TonyVanda

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Reply #1 on: May 30, 2022, 01:56:52 am
Does anyone have any info on Dodaw Dodax lights. A quick search indicates it's an American brand used on a lot of old Mopar trucks. I'm chasing the bracket that it fits on too. I can buy a Constellation bracket and put a Lucas Light on but I really like this big ol' round unit.
See pics...
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grumbern

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Reply #2 on: May 30, 2022, 03:54:38 pm
Those sometimes were adapted on the original bracket. Allso see Michael Waller's Trailblazer restoration videos on YouTube.
You would have to make an adaptor plate, I guess.


TonyVanda

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Reply #3 on: June 06, 2022, 07:59:22 am
Thanks grumbern, I've watched all Michael Wallers vids. I've checked the parts book and the TRailblazer is listed as using a Lucas 525 tail light assembly. Not sure what I'll do. Everything needs updating so I'm trying to get my head around too much at the moment. I can get the tail light bracket and tail light from H's. I already have a cuppla tail lights in the bits tub but not sure what they are yet.

I must say, I like the old round one.

That's a nice example you posted grumbern, is that yours?
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grumbern

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Reply #4 on: June 06, 2022, 08:23:03 am
No, it's not mine. I found this on the net, mine is a Chief, but allso 1959:

https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=21851.0


As your's isn't the only one with a different tail light, it could have been due to some regulation requiring a different mark or something in some places of the US the Lucas light didn't match?! Or it lookes more American/Indian like, or the dealers wanted to get rid of their old stock, or they were just used as replacement and more obtainable - who knows!?
Best wishes,
Andreas
« Last Edit: June 06, 2022, 08:28:27 am by grumbern »


TonyVanda

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Reply #5 on: June 06, 2022, 09:37:00 am
Yes, I agree. Those Dodaw Dodax tail lights were used on Dodge trucks so there were probably plenty around at the time and there is no doubt they look way cooler than the Lucas ones. Anyway, I'll see how I go. Maybe I can get hold of Michaels pattern for the tail light cowl.
REgards
Tv

Btw, I tried looking at your Chief post but it no longer displays the photos, only one of the magazine cover and your Chief looks stunning. Love the colour.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2022, 09:46:51 am by TonyVanda »
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grumbern

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Reply #6 on: June 06, 2022, 12:29:04 pm
Ah, that's this http/https related problem. You can try and open the pictures in a new tab. Maybe you can disable this security option for this site on your browser, then you should be able to see the pictures again.


TonyVanda

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Reply #7 on: June 07, 2022, 11:13:28 am
Hey grumbern, I managed to see all the pictures of your post. What a splendid job on your Chief. Thanks for the tips. Seems i have a long way to go. I wont be going through as much perferction as yourself but I still want to get my bike to an authentic standard. Along with your post and Michael Wallers great YouTube playlist, I'm on my way.

Last night tried to disassemble the rear wheel but the removable hub is not being very removable. There is always a challenge. I'll try get some pictures happening.

Regards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #8 on: June 08, 2022, 12:22:27 pm
Hey All, I need some help with this rear wheel cush drive. This does not look like the setup for a quick detachable wheel, which I believe should be on this bike. The bolts you see sticking out of the cush drive go through the wheel hub and bolt on the other side to hold the wheel on. Can anyone clue me up as to whether this is normal? (see pics below) Thanks


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Adrian II

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Reply #9 on: June 08, 2022, 05:02:44 pm
That looks like a previous owner modification. There should be 6 driving pins (pegs) bolted through the hub, with their plain ends slotting into the back of the cush drive shell. This allows for Q/D rear wheel removal, which the PO obviously didn't want. The Parts book is your friend.



https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/partsbook-pages/3048

That's for the '59 Super Meteor, effectively the same bike.

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #10 on: June 09, 2022, 11:09:45 pm
Thanks Adrian, I figured as much. I'm wondering whether that was a mod people did for a reason and whether the hub assemblies ever came like that from the factory?

I'm going to pull that cush drive apart and compare the cush drive shell with another known quick detach hub.

Thanks for the help.
Regards
Tv
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grumbern

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Reply #11 on: June 11, 2022, 07:26:00 am
Judging from the picture, to me it just looks like the bolts are only rusted/seized in the damper unit. Try removing the three nuts holding everything together and see, how these six bolts look from the other side.


TonyVanda

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Reply #12 on: June 15, 2022, 07:56:45 am
Right on the ball are you blokes. I removed the cush drive plate and sure enough, the locating bolts are rusted into the plate. I've soaked them and they will tap out so i can clean it all up ready to paint. It's all original. Thanks for the tips.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #13 on: June 16, 2022, 12:16:56 pm
G'day All, Can someone please clue me up on how this bearing thing works? It looks like this cap should screw out. The holes in the cap looks like someone used a punch or similar on those holes. I need to find out what the story is before I wreck something. Thanks in advance.
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ddavidv

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Reply #14 on: June 16, 2022, 01:27:06 pm
I wonder if those holes weren't an attempt to extract it?
2023 Scram 411, 2007 five speed 'Deluxe', 1964 750 Interceptor


grumbern

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Reply #15 on: June 16, 2022, 09:05:32 pm
These holes are for a special spanner called a face wrench. You might know these from your angle grinder. Please dont use a punch, this will damage the part. You may use some creep oil and heat on the hub, if I doesn't come lose as it is. You can get an adjustable face spanner to use with different hole distances or improvise something by yourself, depending on how your shop is equipped.

Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #16 on: June 16, 2022, 10:01:20 pm
Thanks Andreas. That's very helpful.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #17 on: June 17, 2022, 09:50:20 am
Got a question about wheels. I disassembled my rear wheel. Checked for offset but hub looks dead centre. I didnt pay attention when I was pullng the spokes out and half are about 1mm shorter than the other half. Which spokes are the inside of hub and outside of hub or doesnt it really matter?

The book says I should use 20 @ 6 3/16” and 20 @ 6 1/8”.  I measured all mine and they are not consistent (meaning from 154mm to 156mm with about a 3 way split).

Regards
Tv
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grumbern

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Reply #18 on: June 17, 2022, 06:59:09 pm
I'd use the shorter ones for the inside, but as long as you can tension all of them correctly, I don't think it really matters. Maybe the wheels got rebuilt at some point and the spokesman ( ;D ;D ;D) didn't care too much about consistency.


TonyVanda

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Reply #19 on: June 17, 2022, 11:43:34 pm
Ok, thanks for that. I've asked around down here and got the same response. It's funny, when I try to loosen the first spoke, it snapped clean off. Spewing! I thought it was going to be a mongrel of a job but all the others came off easy. Usually it's the other way around and it's the last one that causes grief.

Thank for your help - much appreciated.
Regards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #20 on: June 22, 2022, 10:56:45 pm
I wonder if those holes weren't an attempt to extract it?

Some clown has had a go at it. I'm still yet to get up to town to buy a pin wrench. I'll drop in at my mates at the same time to find out how to remove the bearings. These are unlike bearings I have dealt with in the past and I dont want to just bash it.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #21 on: June 22, 2022, 11:03:37 pm
Spewin'!, A spoke snapped while I was dismantling the rear wheel.
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56trailblazer

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Reply #22 on: June 23, 2022, 06:13:55 pm
Looks like a great project Tony. Look forward to following your thread and seeing updates.

Jim


TonyVanda

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Reply #23 on: June 25, 2022, 12:18:27 pm
I just found out I have a Chiefblazer. 1960 Chief frame, 1959 Chief gearbox and a 1958 Trailblazer engine. The guards and toolbox are Trailblazer and the tank is an aftermarket really big tank. It doesnt have the Trailblazer Indian heads on the side.

What will I cal it? (Chieftenstein)
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grumbern

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Reply #24 on: June 25, 2022, 12:38:28 pm
Are you sure it's a Chief gearbox? if so, that's a bit of a problem, as you will need to use the scissors clutch. This only has three plates and though yo can fit four of the five plate clutch in there, it still is a bit of a borderline experiance torque-wise. But even more nasty is the fact, that you can't buy any sprockets for these, as they use a six spline shaft with bigger diametre instead of five. You may check out Michael Wallers vid regarding this, as I made one for him to use on his "Chiefblazer" ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zC3SXSF2E8U

So long,
Andreas


Adrian II

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Reply #25 on: June 25, 2022, 12:54:02 pm
Quote
What will I cal it? (Chieftenstein)

1. Bitsa;

2. Post Industry Thoroughbred, as one UK motorcycle journalist described one-make bitsas!

If the identity of the bike is based on its rolling chassis, then Chiefblazer sounds pretty good to me. You could restore it as either model, Trailblazer is probably the easier option.

Do you have a picture of the tank that's on there? For a later trailblazer I suspect it would be the 3 imperial gallon/14L small chrome panel tank with the raised lip around the chrome panel (see Grumbern's picture), same as used on the Super Meteor, early TBs would have the plain tank. The narrower version of the small panel tank as used on Furies and S1 Interceptors would also go on (with some loss of capacity), you can still buy new Indian copies of these.

A.

https://re-indian.com/56catalogue.html

https://re-indian.com/59catalogue.html
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TonyVanda

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Reply #26 on: June 25, 2022, 11:21:32 pm
Thanks Adrian, Bitsa sounds more appropriate than Post Industry Thoroughbred. I've got a pic of the tinware but cant access at the moment. The tank Ive got is in good condition so it's the tank I'll be using. I can stick the Indian stickers on and it'll look fine.

Andreas, the gearbox is something I havent looked at closely yet but I think it's odd. It has a 5 spline shaft which I know is not correct because I have watched Michaels vids (like over and over - they are great) AND, i cant change gears on this box. Something is wrong with it. I was trying to get the rolling chassis happening first but I might have a go at the gearbox while I'm waiting for parts.

I sent the gearbox serial number to Graham Scarth and he confirmed that gearbox AM46 was from a '59 Chief. I'm more interested now. Forget the wheels, I might go have a closer look at this.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2022, 11:28:23 pm by TonyVanda »
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TonyVanda

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Reply #27 on: June 25, 2022, 11:33:34 pm
Here is another picture of inside the primary case. Notice the primary chain doesnt seem to fit into the sprocket properly. I noticed this when dismantling and was going to ask the question. Is that normal?

Regards
Tv

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grumbern

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Reply #28 on: June 26, 2022, 08:44:49 am
Hi Tony,
that's definitely a Chief gearbox. The drive shaft always has five splines, but it's the main shaft that has six in this case. The sprocket might give some miles before it needs changing, so that's no problem for now.

The primary chain is worn to a state were it becomes dangerous for everything else and has lenghtened a fair bit, wich makes it not fit on the clutch anymore - absolutely replace this one! You will notice this will be very loose and wobbely, once you have it out of there. Hope the sprockets are allright ???

So long,
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #29 on: June 26, 2022, 09:33:53 am
Hey Andreas
Thanks a lot for your help. I'm slowly getting to know what needs to be done. My parts list is getting longer and longer. Lucky I have help otherwise the finished project would end up a disaster.

Kind regards
Tony
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ddavidv

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Reply #30 on: June 26, 2022, 01:13:53 pm
Don't fear going into the gearbox. They really aren't that difficult. The only thing I would avoid is taking out that pin that Michael struggled with. The first time or two putting it together with the shift fork will be a little taxing but once you develop the 'technique' it all slams together quickly.  :)
I say this as someone who never had any motorcycle gearbox apart before tackling an Albion.
2023 Scram 411, 2007 five speed 'Deluxe', 1964 750 Interceptor


grumbern

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Reply #31 on: June 26, 2022, 03:09:44 pm
It's probably the most archaric piece of engineering on this motorcycle and therefore very robust and easy to handle. No need for shims and adjusters and those fancy modern gadgets ;D


TonyVanda

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Reply #32 on: June 27, 2022, 07:04:57 am
Never fear, I've had the gearbox of my Bullet and J2 to pieces and had to reassesmble them a few times before I got them right. I have a friend here, Norm, who can do these boxes with is eyes shut and he was laughting when I was doing them (under his supervision) but I got them done and they work very well (albiet they do drop and oil drip once in blue moon).

Thanks for the support. I'll keep you up to date.

I'm just trying to get the swingarm bearings sorted. Because it's a 1960 Chief frame, the swing arm is the longer US spec and same as the 64 Interceptor (USA Spec) so have written to Hitchcocks to try figure out which bearing set to use. What's in it now is wrong. Wobbles all over the place.
Regards
Tv
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Adrian II

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Reply #33 on: June 27, 2022, 01:28:04 pm
Quote
I have a friend here, Norm, who can do these boxes with is eyes shut and he was laughting when I was doing them (under his supervision)

Is that Norm who had the really bad Electra-X? If so, tell him Adrian from the UK says Hello.

A.
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grumbern

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Reply #34 on: June 27, 2022, 03:31:17 pm
This should have the bronze bearings and axle. Maybe these are just worn to a point, when all comes lose?

The "AM" gearbox basicly is built the same as the "H" type of the Bullets and most other late pre-unit models. Only the measurements differ and are not interchangeable, with exception of a few parts.
Best wishes,
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #35 on: June 27, 2022, 09:41:51 pm
Is that Norm who had the really bad Electra-X? If so, tell him Adrian from the UK says Hello.

Hey Adrian, Yes, I believe so. I'll be speaking to him soon so will say g'day.
REgards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #36 on: June 27, 2022, 09:45:15 pm
This should have the bronze bearings and axle. Maybe these are just worn to a point, when all comes lose?

Hitchcocks replied with the appropriate part numbers (I hope). They said to forget the Interceptor theory and just call it a Chief so they know what I'm on about. I'll just replace all the bearing and bushes so I know it's good.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #37 on: August 31, 2022, 11:56:09 am
G'day All, I'm back on the job. Got distracted with music stuff but that has eased off for the time being.

I've ordered the swingarm bearing tube and bushes from H's. I was wondering how to get the old bushes out of the tube. Anybody here gone through that process?

Regards
Tony
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Adrian II

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Reply #38 on: August 31, 2022, 01:01:26 pm
Seems to be a case of RTFM not actually helping you! I just had a look at the on-line PDF versions of the Trialblazer AND Super Meteor manuals and they don't mention it. They must have considered this a dealer-only job.

My guess is some sort of screw extractor with a long bit of studding/allthread, possibly using the new bushes to push the old ones out (check for any fixing screws) followed by line-reaming the new bushes to fit. I'll gladly submit to expert opinion as I might have to do this for the 350 at some stage.

A.
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grumbern

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Reply #39 on: August 31, 2022, 05:40:53 pm
With the hollow shaft removed, you can simply push them out from the other side, using a iece of rod and a Hammer. Maybe some heat will help. If you have a hydraulic press and know how to use it, it's even easier.


TonyVanda

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Reply #40 on: August 31, 2022, 11:51:46 pm
Thanks for the replies. I've tried a gentle tap from the opposite sides but don't wanna give it heaps unless I damage something. I'll take it up to Norms if he's available as he has a press and knows what he's doing.  I think applying heat will also help.

I'll let you know how I go. At the same time, I'm taking the rear wheel hub to get the bearings pressed out. It looks tricky.

Regards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #41 on: September 02, 2022, 11:25:54 am
All good.  :)

We pressed the swingarm bushes out. Very handy device is the press. Norm also showed me how to get the bearings out of the rear wheel hub. That's a tricky job and I wouldn't have worked it out without help. I'll replace the bearings.

All good now so waiting for my H's shipment and in the meantime, cleaning and polishing...

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Mark M

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Reply #42 on: September 07, 2022, 02:30:42 pm
The bearing retainer needs a special peg spanner, basically a flat bar with a hole to go over the spindle and two studs to engage the holes in the retainer. I threaded a bar, screwed two bolts in and filed the ends of the bolts to a smooth profile to fit the holes. I tried welding some studs in first but my welding wasn't up to the job! It's a normal right hand thread by the way.
REgards, Mark


TonyVanda

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Reply #43 on: September 10, 2022, 09:15:29 am
Thanks Mark, I picked up a peg spanner or pin wrench, whatever you want to call it from the tool shop. It's a angle grinder tool used to loosen the grinder retainer. Actually, you can see it in the picture above - it's got a blue handle. Made the job simple.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #44 on: September 10, 2022, 09:20:00 am
BTW Adrian, I said g'day to Norm for you and he says g'day right back. Remembers all the conversations and swapping of parts in the past. Norm has helped me a lot with my Royal Enfields and I'm lucky he is generous with his knowledge.
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Adrian II

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Reply #45 on: September 10, 2022, 05:34:18 pm
Thank you, Tony! Glad he's still going strong.  :)

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #46 on: September 12, 2022, 10:48:01 pm
So I'm in the process of re-assembling the rear wheel. Fitted the new bearings but inserting the axle was difficult as it seemed to catch on something. Seemed the spacer was damaged a bit when removing old bearings. Plus the axle itself was sort of pitted so cleaned cleaned it and the inside of the axle hole with some 1200 wet and dry and now works ok.

Tried my hand at lacing the wheel. I had to assemble and disassemble a few times before I got it right but with the help of some other enthusiasts, its done. I now know for next time - keep the left and right, inner and outer spokes together. Should be 4 piles. I just bunched them all together without paying attention...Wrong. Anyway, I learned the difference between inner and outer so it's together. I'm just tensioning the spokes up now, then get onto the front wheel.

Regards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #47 on: September 23, 2022, 06:22:57 am
G'day All, I've dismantled my front forks but forgot to note which way the springs go. The springs have a tight coil for about 6" on one end. Does that go at the top or bottom of the forks?
Thanks and regards
Tony
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #48 on: September 23, 2022, 07:04:34 am
The tighter coils are heavier per unit of length. Theoretically they go on the unsprung end, at the top. The spring really doesn't care which way it goes in, the spring rate will operate the same, so no worries.
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


TonyVanda

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Reply #49 on: September 24, 2022, 11:37:47 am
Thanks for that. I'll get into finishing the forks next.

I've just finished reassembling the wheels. Only setback was the brake cam lever is damaged. All the little teeth that interconnect to the cam spindle are worn off so need a new one of those. I think it's the same as the Indian ones so an eBay special should do.



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TonyVanda

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Reply #50 on: September 26, 2022, 12:28:23 pm
G'day, has anyone had this trouble before?

The fork cap seals (purchased new from Hitchcocks) wont screw down all the way. When forks disassembled, they screw all the way. Very annoying.

Regards
Tv

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TonyVanda

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Reply #51 on: September 26, 2022, 12:29:23 pm
here is a pic of the forks
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TonyVanda

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Reply #52 on: October 05, 2022, 04:14:11 am
G'day All, I'm looking over the 700 twin. Notice the valve spring retaining caps are different. It's the same both sides. Is that normal?

REgards
Tv
« Last Edit: October 05, 2022, 04:18:03 am by TonyVanda »
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Mr_84

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Reply #53 on: October 05, 2022, 06:53:17 am
G’day Tony ,   When you say it’s the same both sides are you referring to the inlet side having the same  miss match retaining caps ?
If so one might assume there is a inlet and exhaust retaining cap ? which round they are meant to be someone else hopefully can chime in .    As I’m totally unfamiliar with your engine I can only offer questions for your answer.

Shaun NZ


TonyVanda

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Reply #54 on: October 05, 2022, 07:03:37 am
Thanks Shaun, As I'm asking around I've found out there is a difference between earlier and later heads and the type of valve spring collars they used. It also seems the diameter of the springs is different as well.

It looks like mine has an early head on one side and a later head on the other. I'm wondering whether that is ok or whether I should source parts so they are the same both sides.

Any help is much appreciated.
REgards
Tony
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TonyVanda

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Reply #55 on: October 07, 2022, 04:11:24 am
Hi All, I had a question but I solved it. Thanks.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2022, 05:03:29 am by TonyVanda »
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TonyVanda

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Reply #56 on: October 07, 2022, 09:40:48 am
Help... I've now dismantled the motor and one of the cams, broken tappet guide and cam follower have rusted. Can anyone tell me whether the inlet and exhaust cams are identical?
Regards
Tv
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grumbern

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Reply #57 on: October 07, 2022, 01:29:32 pm
In some cases there were exhaust camshafts used for exhaust and inlet as standard configuration from the factory.
You should check the inscript of the shafts to identify the type of cams used.

Regards,
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #58 on: October 07, 2022, 09:11:57 pm
Thanks Andreas, They both have the same inscription being EX2 but the person who assembled this motor was rough as guts so anything could happen with this motor. All the nuts are finger tight and most of the cam nuts stripped. The motor is a mess.

I can get a used set of cams but one has IN stamped and the other EX. They look identical but i'd like to know more before I fit them and blow the motor to smithereens.

Regards
Tony
« Last Edit: October 07, 2022, 09:35:12 pm by TonyVanda »
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grumbern

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Reply #59 on: October 08, 2022, 09:44:19 am
As both configurations were used, you may either use two EX-cams or IN and EX as suggested by definition. I think the one with two EX-cams was the "economy" cnofiguration.


TonyVanda

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Reply #60 on: October 08, 2022, 09:22:49 pm
That's great news. I have managed to score a new used cam in good condition with the matching sprocket and retaining nut.

Got another question - can you repair broken fins on the barrels?

Regards
Tv
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grumbern

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Reply #61 on: October 09, 2022, 08:32:15 am
Yes!


TonyVanda

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Reply #62 on: October 10, 2022, 11:30:41 pm
That looks good but beyond my capabilities. I'll probably just assemble the engine the way it is. At least I've almost identified every other broken thing in the motor. Still have to look at the oil pump and magneto.

Getting the case welded up today to fix previous welding attempts to seal the effects of what looks like a broken chain. This bike has been hammered. Still, getting there slowly but surely.

Thanks for your help
Regards
Tv
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TonyVanda

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Reply #63 on: October 12, 2022, 11:28:34 pm
Some more dodgy bush mechanics -

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grumbern

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Reply #64 on: October 13, 2022, 05:27:43 pm
Ouch! :o


TonyVanda

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Reply #65 on: October 17, 2022, 08:41:53 am
G'day, I've had one of the engine cases welded because it was cracked and there were some ugly welds existing. The inside of the cases are painted with yellow paint. Would you recommend repainting the inside of the case and if so, with what sort of paint?

Regards
Tv
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Adrian II

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Reply #66 on: October 17, 2022, 11:13:38 am
This was a protection against porous castings, H's still have some red paint for this purpose.

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #67 on: October 30, 2022, 12:48:18 am
Hey All,
I'm learning about the differences in threads. There are a lot of different ones and this bike has many also, some that shouldn't be there.

I'm struggling with this motor. I'd like some engineering advice. All the stud holes in the cases have been helicoiled 5/16 BSW so the engine builder ( who wasn't an engine builder if you know what I mean) could use threaded rod. I've added a pic where showing how one of the helicoils came out when extracting the stud and left a big hole.

Question, how does one repair this mess? Do I fit another BSW helicoil and use the same shit as was in there, or do I plug all the holes and retap with 5/16 BSF and get a whole new set of studs? If the latter, how do you plug and retap? Is there aw way of doing a good job with needing a bunch of engineering machinery.

Regards Tony
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TonyVanda

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Reply #68 on: October 30, 2022, 12:50:42 am
Here is the pic - it would post in the previous mesage
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grumbern

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Reply #69 on: October 30, 2022, 08:30:10 am
Well, there are several options but only one that I would trust. And this means you'd have to remove the coils, open up the bores, weld them and drill and tap with the correct thread.
Other options with using the remaining coils and maybe glueing in a threaded bush seem a bit unprofessional and require a set of special studs. Furthermore, you can't use the recomended torque, as the thread isn't correct.
Best wishes,
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #70 on: November 21, 2022, 06:57:01 am
Thanks Andreas, I've been ignoring the motor for the time being and gathering parts. I need to find someone who can do the job.

In the meantime, does anyone know how to dismantle or service the Stewart Warner speedos? I tested the speedo and it works. I also have a new numbers decal that would look good but I'm not attempting any maintenance until Im sure I wont wreck it.


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grumbern

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Reply #71 on: November 21, 2022, 09:12:36 pm
You have to remove the bezel. For this you need to undo the bead by getting between the bezel and housing with a sort of smooth pry bar tool. Don't do too much at once, or you'll damage it. Just go around step by step, taking care to not cause any kinks until you can remove the bezel from the housing. Then you can remove the glass to apply the scale.Doing this with some soapwater and a scraper reduces the risk of bubbles.
Best wishes,
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #72 on: November 22, 2022, 01:44:34 am
Thanks Andreas, I can do that. Do you know if the mechanism inside is accessible when the bezel is off? While apart, I can service it if I can get to the mechanical bits.

Regards
Tv
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Adrian II

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Reply #73 on: November 22, 2022, 01:17:25 pm
Andreas has already rebuilt one of these speedometers on his own Indian Chief. If we ask him nicely, he might re-post the pictures here!  ;)

A.
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grumbern

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Reply #74 on: November 22, 2022, 05:37:40 pm
He might actually do that! ;D



grumbern

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Reply #75 on: November 22, 2022, 05:40:16 pm
Some more...


grumbern

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Reply #76 on: November 22, 2022, 05:43:06 pm
even more...


Adrian II

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Reply #77 on: November 22, 2022, 05:45:30 pm
Thank you!  :)

A.

PS: I still have those Interceptor headlamp brackets/long fork shrouds.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #78 on: November 22, 2022, 11:27:20 pm
Wow, that's great. Thanks a lot. It's nice to follow someone who has been there before. Looks nice and simple unlike the Chronometric on the J2.

Thanks Andreas and Adrian.

BTW, Chiefs must go faster than Trailblazers as mine only goes to 120mph and yours 150mph (or is yours converted to kph?)
« Last Edit: November 22, 2022, 11:32:03 pm by TonyVanda »
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grumbern

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Reply #79 on: November 23, 2022, 05:00:16 pm
No, it's 150mph! I also have a spare 120mph one. Chiefs would have either of them, the Trailblazers are allways 120, I guess.

@Adrian: I was lucky enough to get my hands on a pair of original '65 MK1 short lamp brackets. 8)

P.S.: Still have the set of '66/'67 MK1-A ones...


TonyVanda

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Reply #80 on: November 23, 2022, 10:43:19 pm
The project is progressing. Just working on the fun bits before I get back to the motor.

Tidying up the tool/air/battery box and side covers. Bit of a challenge. BTW, the orange colour will eventually get replaced by an original colour.

Thanks for all the help.
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Adrian II

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Reply #81 on: November 23, 2022, 10:45:47 pm
Not repainting it orange? Phew!  ;D

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #82 on: November 24, 2022, 01:57:25 am
Not repainting it orange? Phew!  ;D

A.

Haha, What, don't like orange????   ;D
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Adrian II

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Reply #83 on: November 24, 2022, 08:53:21 am
Years ago the old Transport and Road Research Laboratory over here (re)built a 750 Triumph Twin as a prototype "safety" motorcycle, with all sorts of dubious additions. I thank THAT was painted bright orange as a visibility feature.  ::)

A.
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Boxerman

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Reply #84 on: November 25, 2022, 05:05:25 pm
Years ago the old Transport and Road Research Laboratory over here (re)built a 750 Triumph Twin as a prototype "safety" motorcycle, with all sorts of dubious additions. I thank THAT was painted bright orange as a visibility feature.  ::)

A.
The one with the 'leg protectors' and the ironing board on the tank?

Frank


Adrian II

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Reply #85 on: November 25, 2022, 05:24:21 pm
I believe that was the one. It was lampooned in, among other things, on Ogri strip in Bike magazine not long after it was unveiled.

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #86 on: November 28, 2022, 08:45:30 pm
Speaking of safety, the Trailblazer has a steering damper. It works but I'm not sure whether properly. I can set it at a reasonable 'feel' (without having ridden the bike) but a small turn on the knob seems to overtighten very easily. This could be diabolical if unchecked each time you ride.

Should there be some sort of locking mechanism?
Regards
Tony
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Citrus

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Reply #87 on: November 28, 2022, 09:09:34 pm
Tony. The damper should just slowly tighten. There should be a big "star" spring "washer" that the damper pulls up against. That keeps the pressure on.


TonyVanda

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Reply #88 on: November 29, 2022, 07:42:07 am
Ok, it looks like that starfish washer is missing. There doesn't look like there is a lot of room to put it. Anyway, I've compared what i've got with Hitchcocks parts list and I'll have to order one. I assume I can dismantle and fit it without removing the triple clamp?
Regards
Tv
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Mark M

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Reply #89 on: November 30, 2022, 12:01:03 pm
There is no star washer in the damper assembly. (There was on the girder fork models though!) Make sure you have it correctly assembled with all the parts, it's easy to miss something out. It's not very adjustable, I find it rather ON/OFF even with all new parts so I usually ignore it.
REgards, Mark
56 & 57 Trailblazer, 59 Chief, 59 350 Westerner


Citrus

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Reply #90 on: December 01, 2022, 01:33:45 am
Mark is quite right - sorry for misleading you Tony!  I forgot what era I was in !!  There are 2 friction discs in the later ones. Yes the pre war dampers work a treat - but after saying that my Chief and Inter units works OK - just not as fine adjustment.


TonyVanda

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Reply #91 on: December 01, 2022, 07:56:19 am
Thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure those dampers are very safe because if too tight, really messes up the steering. True, they are adjustable on the fly but too late if you've gone over the embankment. I'll sort it out when the bike goes on the road.

Thanks again
Regards
Tony
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Mark M

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Reply #92 on: December 01, 2022, 09:17:40 am
Tony, don't worry, you won't need the damper on the go, these bikes handle extremely well without. Up until the late 50s solo UK market Enfields were not fitted with steering dampers at all, they were only included on sidecar models. They seem to have been fitted to US models as standard, probably as a fashion thing but became a standard fitting on the Home Market when the high performance Constellation was introduced in 1958 and they then stayed on the twins right through to the last Inters fitted with the Enfield fork (the 1968 Mk1A Interceptor). Throughout this period the Bullets only had the damper for sidecar use. As an aside, the post-1956 frame handles extremely well, by the standards of the day and even now. I use my Interceptors hard and the frame has never been an issue, especially with modern tyres. The fork damping is another thing though!
REgards, Mark


Adrian II

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Reply #93 on: December 01, 2022, 09:26:59 am
I have the steering damper knob on Not A Fury purely for cosmetic reasons. Adjusting the steering head bearings is easy enough.

A.
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grumbern

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Reply #94 on: December 01, 2022, 03:26:32 pm
I don't use mine, just as Adrian says. It just doesn't improve riding in any way, but can drasticly mess up your steering, when there's too much friction for smooth operation.


TonyVanda

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Reply #95 on: December 01, 2022, 10:54:03 pm
Thanks, that is reassuring. I remember I once tightening the head stem nut too much on my Bullet and nearly came to grief and that is why I am suspicious of the Trailblazer set up. With your feedback I can easily sort it out. One thing I wondered too was whether it rattles around much. It looks like it's just one more thing to rattle if it's left loose.

Better get onto the engine otherwise this bike is going nowhere...
Thanks again and regard
Tv
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Adrian II

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Reply #96 on: December 02, 2022, 02:02:49 am
If all else fails, fit a Bullet engine and gearbox! I'm sure you'll get the TB engine sorted, though.

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #97 on: December 04, 2022, 06:18:51 am
Not a bad idea but all I got is a Bullet 350 so I'll persevere with the twin. It's just getting time to go see the man. I live a long way from anywhere. Hopefully tomorrow if he's on deck.

Actually, I was looking at the Bullet today and thinking it's got new front forks, Hitchcocks disc brake upgrade, top quality rear shocks, 12 volt charging upgrade... I've still got most of the original parts. I could make a Chiefbullazer.

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grumbern

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Reply #98 on: December 04, 2022, 01:31:01 pm
Well well, who will give up that easily, just because of some setback? ;)


TonyVanda

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Reply #99 on: December 05, 2022, 07:42:38 am
No giving up Andreas.

I managed to get up to town with the engine cases and the engineer is going to fix the ruined stud holes and bring them back to BSF thread. At least that's the plan. Not sure how long it's going to take but if he cant figure out a solution before Xmas, I'll be waiting until way into the new year.

On another problem, I think oil is leaking out between the gearbox lay shaft end bronze bush and the case. Is there a quick fix and if not, what needs to be done?

Regards, Tony.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #100 on: December 26, 2022, 11:11:56 pm
Got my engine case fixed. All the stud holes are 5/16 BSF and now I can use standard studs. Engineer made me a list of stuff to do after he'd checked over everything and working through that (new bearings, crank grind etc) in the new year.

Meanwhile, stripping the existing paint off the tinware.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #101 on: December 26, 2022, 11:12:33 pm
Getting there...
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Adrian II

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Reply #102 on: December 27, 2022, 01:27:15 pm
Stripping the old paint off that way is a lot of effort, at least there doesn't seem to be any major rust to deal with.

Good news about the crankcase repair, no reason to suspect that the rest of it won't end up equally as sound.

A.
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Mark M

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Reply #103 on: December 28, 2022, 08:30:55 am
Tony, stick with it! My Chief project is actually 2 bikes but the crank cases that came with the matching frame had the studs pulled out just like yours. The non-matching ones were perfect, isn't it always the way? I got mine repaired by the clever chaps at T & L near Bedford UK and it's about time I got on with the job. Just the matter of a Series 2 Interceptor to build first. Watch this space....
REgards, Mark


TonyVanda

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Reply #104 on: January 09, 2023, 11:05:38 am
G'day All, I'm just looking at the carburetor that's in the bits box for this bike. It's a Amal Monobloc 389/234. It's in pretty shabby condition. Anyone ever retro fit something else or should I overhaul what Ive got and see how it goes? Another enthusiast recommended a Premier replacement ???

Regards
Tv
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oilypuddlefield

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Reply #105 on: January 10, 2023, 09:52:14 pm
According to a copy of an AMAL  ID reference, your carb...389/234 was actually outfitted for a US market 1966 BSA Thunderbolt 650.
The correct carb number for your Trail Blazer is- 389/16
Interestingly, they show as having the same bore size (1-1/8) just different jets and throttle slide cutaways
                                                                                                           Needle
                                                                          Bore Pilot Cutaway Main Jet  Position

389/234 BSA 650cc 1966; A65 Thunderbolt (USA) 1 1/8" 25     3.5     310 0.106   3
389/16 Indian 692cc 1958-60; Trailblazer Twin      1 1/8" 30     3.5     270 0.106   2

Theoretically, you could rebuild your carb with new parts to suit and take a chance. OR buy a new one from Burlen and save the gamble.


TonyVanda

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Reply #106 on: January 11, 2023, 04:46:12 am
Thanks for the info opf. I'll have a closer look at mine. Where is the best place to get parts from?
Regards
Tv
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oilypuddlefield

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Reply #107 on: January 11, 2023, 01:09:30 pm
Probably the best option for parts...
https://amalcarb.co.uk/monobloc-series.htm
Hitchcocks should have the correct bits as well.
Or prowl around on eBay.
One thing with old Amals, which you might already be aware of is, the mating flanges warp and can allow air to get past the O-ring.
I've always filed and sanded them flat.
Some brave souls have rigged up a contraption to draw them back flat by way of a T bolt affair run through the bore.
Try at your own risk !


TonyVanda

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Reply #108 on: January 21, 2023, 11:02:40 am
Dropped the crank at the crank grinders. Turns out we worked together 40 years ago (furniture retail business) so most of our conversation was about that. He reassured me my crank was in the right hands. He's still doing it after 40 years and reckons it's hard to retire because no-one does this stuff any more and none of the young blokes are interested. His mate does rebores so he's got the barrels and pistons so hopefully, wont be too long before I might be able to fit the short motor.

Got a long way to go yet. Learning something new every time I get something done.

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Adrian II

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Reply #109 on: January 21, 2023, 01:24:23 pm
Unfortunately these guys won't be around for ever, and it does need younger blood to carry this stuff on. Does your crank grinder want you as a mature apprentice? Assuming you're not already the same age as he is?

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


TonyVanda

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Reply #110 on: January 21, 2023, 09:05:14 pm
Naah Adrian, we are the same age. I wouldn't be looking to do an apprenticeship in that field anyway. I already get too much oil under my fingernails. Besides, for what he is charging, I'd just as sooner get him to do it.

The resto process is great fun and I learn stuff every day. I'd like to learn how to use a metal lathe one of these days. They look like a handy bit of kit.
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oilypuddlefield

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Reply #111 on: January 27, 2023, 01:10:30 pm
Stay away from metal lathes !They're only the beginning. Once you have learned that, then comes the milling machine.
Then you start collecting tools and gadgets so you can  make "stuff". And the smell of cutting oil will permeate your clothes.
After awhile, your shop will be the only place that makes sense !
Speaking from 40+ years as a self employed metal cutter.


Adrian II

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Reply #112 on: January 27, 2023, 01:18:28 pm
The clever thing for most of us to do is actually become good friends with a man in your position! (Says the man with no machinist buddies...)

A.
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TonyVanda

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Reply #113 on: February 16, 2023, 08:14:21 am
Ooo aah! The barrels have been bored and finished. Cant wait to pick them up. The crank grinder found one of the conrods was knackered so I've sourced another and will be taking that up next week. If he can make a good pair I can save a few bob.

Slowly coming together. The tinware has been on hold while I mess around with my Bullet 350 but it's well on the way too. I've scrounged a chain guard and a left side U-Shaped foot peg and a centre stand. Oh, and scored an adapter ring for the alternator too. Lucky they are a simple bike or I'd be doing it forever...

« Last Edit: February 16, 2023, 08:21:17 am by TonyVanda »
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TonyVanda

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Reply #114 on: March 21, 2023, 07:55:50 am
G'day All, my Magneto is done and on it's way down today. I've almost got everything ready to start reassemble but I've got some work to do on the cases. Before I start the process, I'm after some opinions.

I've got an article written on modifying the 700 twin to solve some oil pressure and breathing issues to eliminate oil leaks. It recommends 4 mods
1) make a hole in the roof of the oil tank on the timing chest side.
2) include an atmospheric breather (like the 250 Conti or the later Interceptors) on the top of the drive side case
3) modify where the oilway crosses the crank case joint to feed oil to the rockers (few options here)
4) block the oilway found in the cylinder face on the right hand crankcase.

These mods are somewhat summarized compared to the article. I'm interested to know if anyone has done this and if youse think it's worthwhile?

Regards
Tv
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


Sandgroper

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Reply #115 on: March 28, 2023, 08:19:57 pm
G'day Tony,

I'll presume the article you are referring to is that published in the RE Owners Club magazine The Gun, No. 89, in November 1990. The mods described therein are all well-proven, but as is pointed out in the article, it is worth remembering that if originality is important, only some leave no external evidence. Some I've done, some not, but intend to as and when.

The oilway across the crankcase joint and the drillway in the cylinder base face are the cause of all sorts of strife - definitely sort those.

The big breather is worth doing, but obvious. If this matters, less visual would be to fit additional breathers in a pair of the rocker covers (Webco in the US actually made some like this back in the day) and also vent the oil tank into the timing case as per the article. I've also seen an additional small-bore breather taken from the oil filler neck.

If originality is not an issue, another mod I have seen is to fit a modern spin-on oil filter in the return circuit. As well as improving filtration, this increases capacity and cooling capability. Pipework for this can be plumbed via mods to the oil filler neck, or by rerouting the return pipe via compression fittings out of and returning to the oil tank top.

If your bike has got that awful 'tuning fork' head steady from the top rear of the heads to the fuel tank mount, it will be time well spent fabricating a replacement one-piece plate bolted to the top of the heads, tying the two heads together, and with a vertical extension fixed to a lug on the under-tank frame tube - think inverted T shape. Later bikes had a similar arrangement in the form of two L-shaped plates, but the one-piece mod stiffens the whole thing up and helps prevent crankcase joint chafing.

There's a bloke in NZ who has done pretty much all there is to do on RE's - he may be along in due course to impart a little Kiwi wisdom - he knows his stuff.


TonyVanda

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Reply #116 on: April 02, 2023, 11:09:53 am
Thanks for the heads up Sandgroper. Any info before I start assembling is much appreciated. I'm not that fussed on originality as the bike is a bitzer but any mods would be tastefully done if possible. At this stage I'm interested in getting a reliable engine together.

This week, I'm laying out the all the motor bits for contemplation...
REgards
Tv
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #117 on: April 17, 2023, 07:32:07 am
1. Cleaning the yellow paint out of the inside of the engine cases. 
2. Cases boiled for an hour or so (on the BBQ) in a water/baking soda solution
3. High pressure washed and got most of the paint off. It was pretty soft
4. the cases were a bit stained because of the solution but still come up ok after a wire brush, some steel wool and some Autosol aluminium polish.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #118 on: April 17, 2023, 07:33:24 am
Here are more attachments.
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Adrian II

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Reply #119 on: April 17, 2023, 09:32:19 am
The yellow paint was there as a precaution against porous castings, will you be painting the inside of the cases with its modern equivalent, or leaving them bare? H's are out of stock but you might have a local equivalent.

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/11922

A.

Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


TonyVanda

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Reply #120 on: April 17, 2023, 09:57:14 am
Yes Adrian, the red paint is called Glyptal. I think in your currency/volume it's about 40 quids for a pint (or thereabouts) It's expensive but Ive bought a can so may as well use it. I get about 50/50 response on whether to use it when I ask for advice. Some say waste of time others do it.

I'd be interested to know if anyone here has used it.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


Adrian II

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Reply #121 on: April 17, 2023, 10:09:08 am
I think I'd want to use it, if there were any porous spots in those crankcases it would save an engine strip down to fix it later on.

A.
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AzCal Retred

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Reply #122 on: April 17, 2023, 07:21:04 pm
Glyptal is used inside electric motors to insulate & protect the windings. I can tell you it's tough stuff. Highly heat & oil resistant.
Sealing case porosity would be a good use for it.

As these are singles with vertically split cases, a bit of leakage around the center case gasket is to be expected. Oil is cheap, a few drips here & there are pretty harmless. "Exuding a bit of class" when parked just adds that 1930's character & keeps the dust down. They aren't Hondas.
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


Adrian II

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Reply #123 on: April 17, 2023, 10:34:13 pm
Quote
As these are singles with vertically split cases, a bit of leakage around the center case gasket is to be expected.

Single? No the Trailblazer is a twin, based on the (original) Super Meteor.

Center case gasket? Not on the Redditch models, that's an Indian Bullet thing.

I notice there are few Glyptal suppliers in the UK, and those who have it charge a fortune for a 1US quart can!

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


TonyVanda

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Reply #124 on: May 01, 2023, 11:23:12 am
Well, I still haven't done the paint job on the inside of the cases. Knowing how this engine has been butchered already, I thought I better check everything again and also check all the other stuff that bolts onto it.

Bummer! Look what I found...the primary chain tensioner has been fitted using a bit fat ugly bolt that does not belong. The tensioner top is broken, a piece of sandal (or similar) has been used to as a slipper pad, the wrong bolt to adjust the tensioner blah blah ... AND, the worst part is that there is a dirty big hole in the engine case. Grumble, grumble !

So Ive ordered the correct parts from H's so I can see how it is supposed to go together and I'll get the case fixed before I apply the new lining paint.

Live and learn and God bless the person that put this engine together.

Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #125 on: May 01, 2023, 11:24:03 am
Few more pics

Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


ddavidv

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Reply #126 on: May 01, 2023, 12:30:44 pm
Ah, yes. The PO (previous owner). They made so much work for me on my Bullet.
2023 Scram 411, 2007 five speed 'Deluxe', 1964 750 Interceptor


TonyVanda

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Reply #127 on: May 25, 2023, 04:18:36 am
Work in progress.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #128 on: May 25, 2023, 03:17:21 pm
It's getting there... 8)


TonyVanda

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Reply #129 on: June 04, 2023, 07:48:11 am
Another step done - gotta wait a week for the coating to cure.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


Adrian II

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Reply #130 on: June 04, 2023, 11:44:06 am
Does that need any special preparation, Tony, or is it just a case (no pun intended) of giving everything a good solvent-based clean-up first?

A.
Grumpy Brit still seeking 500 AVL Bullet perfection! Will let you know if I get anywhere near...


TonyVanda

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Reply #131 on: June 07, 2023, 10:46:41 am
That's what it said on the can Adrian. Those cases have been boiled in a solution for a cuppla hours, then high pressure washed, cleaned up with wire brushes, sandpaper, then finally soap and water, totally dried out then given the once over with methylated spirit. If it peels off at least I did my best to clean them up. It's just one coat, painted on with a brush. They are still sitting over the heater duct and the paint seems pretty hard.

Fingers crossed...
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #132 on: July 03, 2023, 11:44:36 pm
Progress update ...
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #133 on: July 04, 2023, 06:31:40 pm
Looks great, almost like a motorcycle! ;D


TonyVanda

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Reply #134 on: July 05, 2023, 07:21:06 am
I'm happy the way barrel fins were repaired...
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #135 on: September 17, 2023, 07:41:39 am
I need some help. The gear box sprocket boss is flush with the inner primary cover oil seal. Seems to work ok but I have 2 clutch centres. One H's just sent me Part #42968 is a long nose cluthc center but seems too long. It's very frustrating.

I'll try add some pics.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #136 on: September 17, 2023, 08:10:25 am
Those are mixed up. You'd either have the long nur OR chlutch center. Some version hat the seal sitting on the nut, some on the clutch center. You'll have to choose which is right for your motorcycle.

Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #137 on: September 17, 2023, 08:21:11 am
OK, thanks. Unfortunately I don't have a matching set so I'll have do some more homework. I need to know whether the clutch centre should go through the seal or the other way around. It's a Chief gearbox with a scissor clutch.

Thanks for your help. Until I get this sorted, it's back to the tinware.

Regards
Tv
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #138 on: September 17, 2023, 09:05:57 am
The Chief boxes I have use a flat nut in combination with the long clutch centre. HMC supplies the long nut for reasons unknown to me and I stumbled into this one as well...


TonyVanda

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Reply #139 on: September 17, 2023, 09:11:28 am
Thanks. I might have a flat nut lying around. I'd love to have this problem solved soon.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #140 on: September 19, 2023, 12:37:46 pm
Clutch problem solved. I used the nut that goes through the seal. It was the nut that was on it. Then made a small spacer for the main shaft between it and the clutch centre so the back of the clutch basket doesn't touch the inner primary case. The primary sprockets all line up, clutch is fitted and seems to be working OK. Thanks goodness.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #141 on: September 19, 2023, 12:38:46 pm
...and here is the spacer. Bit crude as I dont have a lathe buts it's done the job.
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #142 on: September 21, 2023, 10:33:09 am
G'day All, anyone have a pair or one of these footrest rubbers?
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #143 on: September 21, 2023, 09:30:39 pm
Oh, these were around 100$ the pair and have been remade in a small batch by a chap from Australia:

https://www.re-indian.com/

Maybe he still has some left?
Andreas


TonyVanda

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Reply #144 on: September 23, 2023, 07:48:58 am
Thanks Andreas, unfortunately, Phil no longer sells any parts.
Regards
Tv
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


TonyVanda

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Reply #145 on: October 07, 2023, 11:21:05 am
Almost there. Haven't tried starting it yet. A few more things to do before I have a go...
Aarrrgh, an oil drip!


grumbern

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Reply #146 on: October 07, 2023, 11:50:20 am
Looking good!
There are footrest rubbers of the same style, but with "Royal Enfield" embossed. Those would be my option to go with.
Andreas


allanfox

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Reply #147 on: October 09, 2023, 09:49:05 am
Almost there. Haven't tried starting it yet. A few more things to do before I have a go...

What a great looking bike, good luck with the first running of it!