[Blaqkfox]

OK, so am I supposed to have the dip stick screwed in when checking oil level or not?

Also does this plug look too rich or lean to you? or just about right? doing some tuning and ive read too many conflicting spark plug reading articles with photos and now idk what to think





And the gasket that goes here...





Is it this gasket?



Because mines had a blow out and leaks just ever so slightly after the bikes been put up hot.



Im assuming thats primary oil it seals? because my engine oil level looks to be fine.

[tooseevee]

OK, so am I supposed to have the dip stick screwed in when checking oil level or not?

Also does this plug look too rich or lean to you? or just about right? doing some tuning and ive read too many conflicting spark plug reading articles with photos and now idk what to think

And the gasket that goes here...

Is it this gasket?

Because mines had a blow out and leaks just ever so slightly after the bikes been put up hot.
I'm assuming that's primary oil it seals? because my engine oil level looks to be fine.

            That plug looks pretty damn good to me & I'm curious what your Pilot jet # is now & what groove your needle clip is in. Also how many turns out is your mixture screw now?

            Yes, that would be primary chaincase oil, but what do you mean by a blowout? Are you sure it's a leak from the gasket & not the small vent tube that exits out the top of the primary cover?

            And be aware that to replace that sprag hump gasket you have to remove the whole primary drive assembly & you might as well do a new inner & outer primary cover gasket also. & the crankshaft oil seal & transmission oil seal that's behind the clutch.

             As far as the dipstick goes, just do it the same way all the time. Mine is happy anywhere in the middle 1/3rd of the hash marks. Any higher, it will be blown out the crankcase vent hose (which only happened once in the very early life of my bike before I knew better).

[Adrian II]

It still looks lean to me, but I'll give way to tooseevee!  You posted another picture just recently with a browner colo(u)r on the insulator, what has been changed?

Originally the vent tube from the back of the primary would have have a small-bore rubber hose going up to the breather catch-can, might be worth checking to see if whatever is still on there is not blocked (or the primary over-filled). The previous owner might have been playing with it. Yes, the engined and primary oil are supposed to be separate, unless the oil seal behind the engine sprocket fails.

A.

[Blaqkfox]

Yeah I’ve made the noob mistake of overfilling the oil apparently. It was slightly beyond the hash marks. I probably did this 400 miles ago when I did the first oil change and didn’t realize I had some in the sump and added more. I distinctly remember having it about in the middle of the hash marks, but when I checked it last night it was overfull. I had a little crappy hand pump I used to suck some of it out, and now it’s below the hash marks if the stick isn’t screwed in. I could get more out but it took like 30 min to even drain that much (my hand pump is tiny). Surprised I haven’t had any issues, maybe the tiniest bit of oil in the air box I noticed last time I had it apart but it was so little I thought nothing of it. No breather tube blow out, nothin.

As for that gasket “blow out” it’s been like that since I bought it, I say blow out because part of the gasket looks to be pushed out. Looks like someone’s been in there before with some red gasket maker too. But yeah I know it’s quite the job, and it’s a small leak and there’s plenty of oil in the primary so I’m just rolling with it for now till I get the special tools in, I already ordered all related gaskets. Debating changing the sprocket while I’m in there since I ride mostly higher speeds (65mph)

I have “overfilled” the primary case as everyone says to do, it’s got like 800-900 ml in it, twice the recommended amount per that rumor about the TSB that it helps the sprag and whatnot.

It only seems to leak when the bike is warmed up though. And even then it’s not much.

Now the spark plug, yeah I had a photo recently where it started to have a little brown it looked like, but all I’ve done since then is ride the bike my normal high speed long commute to work and back. I did notice when I was putting that BSA muffler on that my header felt loose, the bolts were tight, but I did use a Honda 400 gasket against the head to try and make things work for the time being. I’m wondering if it’s not sealed proper there, I have some copper crush gaskets coming in from hitchcocks with some other parts next week so maybe that’ll fix it.

I can’t imagine I need to up-jet more but maybe? I’m running a 17.5 pilot with a 120 main. The only modifications are the PAV delete, the header “hot tube” removed, and the BSA silencer. Everything else is factory even the air filter. I thought it looked lean too, granted this engine is the lean burn? So I guess that’s ok to be a little lean? I think I see the tiniest bit of browning on one side of the ceramic down in there but the tip of the ceramic is very clearly white. There’s some sooty-ness around the base ring which some say indicates a rich condition even with a white ceramic insulator. But every plug I’ve ever pulled on other bikes is a lot more brown or even slightly black from being rich.

When I up jet to the 118/15 with the factory silencer this is how the plug looked, so I tried a 120/17.5 with the factory silencer and it finally was too rich, so I was hoping the bsa muffler would lean it some, maybe it did too much though.

[Paul W]

What plug is that? As far as mixture is concerned it looks good because there is some carbon at the inboard end of the side electrode. With modern fuel I like to see just a little carbon there and in my experience, the end of the main body always seems to look black even when the mixture is correct.

However, because the insulation looks so white it might be worth while trying a slightly colder plug.

For comparison, I reckon this iridium plug from my 350 might be very slightly rich but bearing in mind it has a high compression piston and I want to avoid overheating that, I’m happy with it.

[Blaqkfox]

Yeah see that’s what I’m aiming for is about like yours looks there Paul.

The plug in currently using is an autolote 4054 which supposedly cross referenced from a NGK B9es according to the local parts store (they couldn’t even get a B9es, only a BR9es which has the resistor top so wouldn’t fit in the spark plug cap). I have two more NGK B9es plugs coming from H’s, a regular and an iridium as well as the resistor compatible NGK plug cap, so I’ll give them a shot.

People around here have a love or hate relationship with the autolite brand plug. I managed an auto parts store for years and the older guys seemed to swear by them (a saying we have here meaning they thought the upmost highest of them) but others hate them

Somebody was just mentioning running a step colder plug to me the other day, they said their classic 500 with the same style engine loves it. So I may try that too.

[Adrian II]

I have “overfilled” the primary case as everyone says to do, it’s got like 800-900 ml in it, twice the recommended amount per that rumor about the TSB that it helps the sprag and whatnot.

Have you actually tried just running the recommended amount? This is one "everyone" you can exclude me from. What WILL help the sprag is a properly set-up carb, good starting procedure and no "bounce-back" on stopping the engine, using the decomp if it's usable. It still took me over nine years to kill the sprag clutch on mine, most of those with the AVL decomp parts removed.

A.

[tooseevee]

The plug in currently using is an autolote 4054 which supposedly cross referenced from a NGK B9es according to the local parts store (they couldn’t even get a B9es, only a BR9es which has the resistor top so wouldn’t fit in the spark plug cap). I have two more NGK B9es plugs coming from H’s, a regular and an iridium as well as the resistor compatible NGK plug cap, so I’ll give them a shot.

            Why can't you get the top cap off the plug? That gives you the skinny threaded pin that the coil wire cap grabs onto.

[Blaqkfox]

            Why can't you get the top cap off the plug? That gives you the skinny threaded pin that the coil wire cap grabs onto.

Resistor plugs have a non removable top cap. There is no threaded portion under them.

[Blaqkfox]

Have you actually tried just running the recommended amount? This is one "everyone" you can exclude me from. What WILL help the sprag is a properly set-up carb, good starting procedure and no "bounce-back" on stopping the engine, using the decomp if it's usable. It still took me over nine years to kill the sprag clutch on mine, most of those with the AVL decomp parts removed.

A.

Interesting. I had thought you had confirmed that old TSB rumor in my other thread, guess it was somebody else. Anyways I do all that- start with the decomp slightly engaged (tho I doubt it helps), and kill it using the decomp lever. I am putting it through hell with all the starting and stopping im doing for tuning though. My unit still sounds good and works mostly everytime (sometimes I don’t think the neutral switch picks up but that’s a rare occasion).

I ran it the first few outings with the 420ml the manual says until a few people told me to use a full liter, then somebody said an old TSB issued to the dealers said to use like 840 or 940ml (I forget exactly) but I added that much and I haven’t noticed any changes other than it started to leak a bit more after that. I’m guessing cuz more oil works it’s way up into that chamber.

[tooseevee]

Resistor plugs have a non removable top cap. There is no threaded portion under them.

            That just can't be true across the board. I have "R" plugs down in the garage right now that have removable tops.

[Blaqkfox]

            That just can't be true across the board. I have "R" plugs down in the garage right now that have removable tops.

Huh, idk I can’t imagine it’s an American vs uk thing, but I managed an auto parts store for 4 years, and every resistor plug I’ve ever come across didn’t have a removable top. What brand plug do you have that does that cuz u want one lol

[AzCal Retred]

That Electra looks pretty good. By Gordon Jennings standards, the plug looks maybe a bit rich according to the "carbon ring" methodology. As it leans out the ring drops farther towards the insulator base. I think the main jet (3/4 +) is the best place to start when tuning by the carbon ring, get it low on the center insulator and then the needle jet/needle (2/5- 3/4ish) combo will be next. New plugs and a nice long incline, maybe 1-2 miles will  give you some good reads.

OR - this is a 24ish HP machine, tweak it until it runs clean & pulls as well as it can and call it good. It doesn't really have the "ass" to easily pull tall gearing at 60+ MPH unless you are a small, light guy. My 500 Bullet came equipped with an 18T countershaft sprocket by an optimistic P.O., it runs ever so much better with the stock 17T.

The oil leaks are minimal, that "gasket blowout" is just excess sealant. I'm not seeing a legitimate reason to open it up.

Spark Plugs have "screw off tops" depending on brand & model.

This is a really nice bike to get the Gen-U-Whine 1940's riding experience on. The Electra was the Pre-Unit swan song and RE polished it with the electronic ignition, needle bearing big end and gear oil pumps. You can make them fast, but it'll really cost you. Trying to "buzz out" 28-30 HP will get you a broken engine and a pain in your wallet or a "Parts Bike for sale". A 535 kit with a high(er) compression slug is a good start(only $500ish...), and it takes displacement to turn low revs at speed. BUT - it's waaay cheaper to just get a good used modern bike to regularly hit modern speeds on modern roads. Speed requires real brakes, real handling, and plenty of spare power. Ride your Electra as it was intended and learn to appreciate what it offers. My 4-speed Bullets have "learned me a lot". A meager 16 to 22 BHP will take you around the world, but mostly at 15 - 50 MPH.
(   https://www.60kph.com/   )

[Blaqkfox]

Oh yeah I’m not expecting it to be anything more than what it is. It’s practically farm equipment lol (my friends refer to it as a tractor).

But it seems to me it should be perfectly capable of what I’m asking from it. Winding hilly back roads, a touch of highway, and a little “city” driving.



The speed on the highway is 55mph, so of course everyone drives about 65. I do that for about 10 mins straight out of the driveway so I let it warm up well before taking off.



Then it’s 5 minutes ride through a small rustic town with about 3 red lights and a beautiful stroll by the lakeside with a speed limit of a mere 30mph, which the two town police strictly enforce.





From here it becomes winding hilly country back roads, not much elevation but enough for a good view. This is the longest stretch of my journey that last approximately 20-30 minutes and has a speed limit of 45-55mph, so most people drive 50-60mph. There’s some really sharp turns requiring 25mph, a long straight or two where I get up to 65, and plenty of time spent throttling up and down and changing gears as the curves come quickly. I tend to spend most my time in 4-5th gear here at 45-60mph, so around 52mph average probably. Lots of throttle input out of corners. I hardly ever reach WOT even on the straights, but I am often around 3/4 throttle when cruising in 5th at 60-65mph.





Then my journey ends as the back roads empty into a long straight that turns into increasingly shortening red light stops in the major town/city. It’s not like a city with big buildings or like a major downtown setting. No, it’s more like a large college town. But the outskirts of the town, so plenty of intersections a 45mph speed limit (though everyone drives about 50), and typical business buildings- groceries, fast food, doctors offices, that sorta stuff.



And then im in the neighborhood where the shop is located, with a beautiful view of the Smokey TN mountains as I make my way through the neighborhood roads.

I should really get a gopro and film it, its a beautiful ride.

But it is quite a long ride, it takes me anywhere from 45 minutes to 1 hour, its 32 miles one way. The bullet should be more than capable of this journey I think. I do have two other motorcycles, granted ones in pieces, I just had the frame powder coated and all I've done is reinstall the engine, forks, and swing arm, basically just to get it to roll around the shop. I have rebuilt the carbs though and have all new parts just waiting to go on it, so if its a interstate capable bike I was after id get my butt in gear to finish putting it together. It's just a little Honda CM400 from the 1980s, but it can reach about 100mph or so. 43BHP out of a parallel twin. But honestly I'm just having far too much fun with the Royal right now. It really is a blast to ride and tinker with. Sometimes I do wonder if I am pushing it too hard on this journey to commute to work. It seems I'm right on the edge always at 60-65mph. It can hit 80 but anything over 70 feels like its straining and I am probably close to floating valves at that point and whatnot. Like I said, im not just screaming along for an hour at WOT but I get close sometimes on those straight aways. I think its probably fine, but a different sprocket geared for even just an extra 5mph on the top end might be ideal for what I do with it.

Other than that I usually just ride around the windy country back roads out here around the house where the speed limit is usually 45 but honestly that feels too fast, the corners are sharp and quick, practically short switchbacks.

As for the "sealant" on the gasket blow out, no. It's hard to see in the photo but the black in the middle of all that red gasket maker is the black gasket (oem I assume) that has pushed its way out of position and about half of its thickness is protruding outside the cover causing a slow leak.

Admittedly, I don't know what you mean when you say:

I think the main jet (3/4 +) is the best place to start when tuning by the carbon ring, get it low on the center insulator and then the needle jet/needle (2/5- 3/4ish) combo will be next.

What is meant by 3/4+ and 2/5-3/4ish?

[tooseevee]

Huh, idk I can’t imagine it’s an American vs uk thing, but I managed an auto parts store for 4 years, and every resistor plug I’ve ever come across didn’t have a removable top. What brand plug do you have that does that cuz u want one lol

           I don't have a clue one way or another. The whole "non-removable cap" thing was totally new to me when you mentioned it in your post. It was a surprise because since around 1950 I've been doing plugs in various cars, bikes, lawn mowers etsetterah & I've never come across a plug with a non-removable cap. The NGK BR8 & 9 plugs I went through in the early days with my '08 AVL all had removable caps. It was in those early years that there was a lot of discussion about resistor plugs teamed with resistor plug caps. My coil wire now goes directly to the plug with no cap so I don't care if my plug has an R or not.