GHG and Arizoni are correct. And they've been at it with these RE models probably quite a bit longer than your dealership!
Thank you, I will reduce my oil level a touch. I guess the front drain plug?
That's a convenient spot to drain off some oil, and because that orifice drains just the chamber where the crank is spinning, if something goes amiss (like if you accidentally drop the plug and it ends up rolling under the bench) you won't end up dumping all your oil. But don't forget that if you
do drain it from there, don't expect to observe a real-time change (lowering) of your sight-glass level - that won't change until you run the engine again and that crank chamber gets refilled. Earlier, GHG said,
"There are are oil passages throughout the inside of that crank case lead to each other," which is correct, but I don't believe that the crank chamber will actually drain on its own, which is why RE added that third plug.
Occasionally I've seen where members have suggested various suction methods for removing a bit of oil from the oil fill opening, but if I recall correctly I was never able to get anything down past the mechanicals inside the engine to actually reach the oil.
As GHG said, when you're doing the final "top-up," you want to add just a little bit at a time, and of course when you do you need to be patient and give it a chance to dribble down into the sump and actually raise the level. I actually keep an old plastic squeeze bottle filled with fresh oil so when I'm topping up, I can just squirt a little bit in at a time, and forego the funnel altogether. Get yourself one like this and adding oil will become the highlight of your day:
The mechanic also told me they never touch the oil strainer behind the cap under the engine. Losing confidence in the dealership.
Codswallop! When your engine is running, oil is sucked from the sump, through that screen, and directly into the oil pump. That strainer is your first line of defense against all the production-line crap that ends up in your oil during the break-in - machining swarf, bits of gasket-in-a-tube squeeze-out, fibers and even chunks of cloth from gloves or rags or who-knows-what... a search through the archives reveals some photos of those screens, taken during first oil changes, which show an impressive quantity of junk clogging up the works:
Admittedly, these photos are of some of the earliest UCE bikes; supposedly things have changed a lot at the factory since 2009, when these pics were posted.
Anyway, that screen should be removed and cleaned every time you change your oil. After a few oil changes, things will improve as that junk gets flushed from the system, and all you'll end up with is some metal "dust" on the sump drain magnets. But keep checking that screen at every change - it's an easy way to keep an eye on how things are behaving inside your engine...
If you'd like to know more about your engine's oiling system, here's a link to an old thread where I pondered the question about how to drain as much oil as possible. You'll find photos of the crankcase interior which may shed some light on the subject...
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=21436.0My ol' pal Gremlin posted a link to a "slide-show" graphic which describes the oiling of these engines; it's so simple and informative that I'm including the link here:
https://www.slideshare.net/classicmw/royal-enfield-uce-lubrication