Author Topic: Himalayan hands free?  (Read 6756 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

AzCal Retred

  • Chennai Wrencher
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 7,339
  • Karma: 0
  • a journey of a thousand li starts under one's feet
Reply #15 on: April 10, 2021, 01:49:10 am
You can always just take a file to the offending slot. Or a Dremel, or a die-grinder. You probably don't need a lot. Buy a couple 1/2 links and you're covered. It has to line up to go straight, if it doesn't, make it line up. It's not rocket surgery and it's your bike. Don't be askeered, guys have been "fettling" their machines for years, it's OK, just pick up some tools and fix it.
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #16 on: April 11, 2021, 08:35:20 am
Hello AzCal,

Thank for your advice - I already searched for 1 1/2 links, but could not find an offer for that. Yes, that would an easy way to solve the problem, and could easily done by myself...

I could also buy a new chain for the Himalayan - but of cause it has also only 110 links, just like the old one. I couldn‘t find a longer one so far.

To be honest, the last thing I would like to do is to widen the window on the right side, even  if that might also be a fast way to solve the issue. Before I do that I want to hear what my dealer says...

Regards
Toni



Richard230

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,050
  • Karma: 0
Reply #17 on: April 11, 2021, 01:38:39 pm
Hello AzCal,

Thank for your advice - I already searched for 1 1/2 links, but could not find an offer for that. Yes, that would an easy way to solve the problem, and could easily done by myself...

I could also buy a new chain for the Himalayan - but of cause it has also only 110 links, just like the old one. I couldn‘t find a longer one so far.

To be honest, the last thing I would like to do is to widen the window on the right side, even  if that might also be a fast way to solve the issue. Before I do that I want to hear what my dealer says...

Regards
Toni

I thought most aftermarket chains, like DID and RK, typically come in 120-link lengths that you can cut yourself to the length that you need?  ???  That is what I do when I replace a chain on one of my motorcycles.
« Last Edit: April 11, 2021, 01:41:30 pm by Richard230 »
2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM Duke 390, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


zimmemr

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,873
  • Karma: 0
Reply #18 on: April 11, 2021, 03:27:09 pm
I thought most aftermarket chains, like DID and RK, typically come in 120-link lengths that you can cut yourself to the length that you need?  ???  That is what I do when I replace a chain on one of my motorcycles.

They do, and some motorcycle shops carry bulk chain that they'll cut to length for you. If you're not concerned about using a O or X ring style chain find your nearest industrial supply house and ask them if they carry heavy duty roller chain. Most of them do and it's more than suitable for use on a Himalayan.


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #19 on: April 11, 2021, 06:34:28 pm
I just realized this afternoon that Hitchcock is offering a chain with 2 links more for usage with a bigger sprocket.
That could also be a solution...

But I have already announced to my dealer that I will come by at the next opportunity ...
Well, bike is still under warranty.

I will keep you informed.

Regards

Toni


longstrokeclassic

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 900
  • Karma: 0
Reply #20 on: April 12, 2021, 09:20:19 am
When everything is in correct alignment there should be a gap between the inner chain plates and the sprocket teeth.  If the chain is running hard against the sprocket then something needs repositioning. Especially if the inner chain plates are removing metal from the sprocket like this...
 Ignore the fact  it's a front sprocket, the rear ones get chewed up just as bad when things are not lined up correctly.
« Last Edit: April 12, 2021, 09:24:16 am by portisheadric »
Never underestimate the value of improved combustion efficiency and reducing parasitic engine and rolling chassis losses.


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #21 on: April 15, 2021, 09:40:18 am
@portisheadric:
Good point

Theoretical consideration at the rear wheel:


I just measured the thickness of the chainring, it is about 7.2 mm. The clear width in the chain is about 7.8 mm. This means that in the optimum case there is 0.3 mm air on both sides of a tooth.
The chainring has a diameter of approx. 190 m. However, the chain only rests on about half of it. That means at about 85 mm the skew would have to be less than 0.3 mm otherwise wear would occur. That sounds now very closely tolerated. Do I have an error in thinking?

Ok,extrapolated to the wheel and its diameter, that's quite a lot....

Regards
Toni


AzCal Retred

  • Chennai Wrencher
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 7,339
  • Karma: 0
  • a journey of a thousand li starts under one's feet
Reply #22 on: April 16, 2021, 04:29:24 am
The Himalayan final drive chain is a 525, according to this fellow:
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-741

My USA 2019 Himalayan chain is a 525------with 110 links.
I'm just putting this out there in case you are going order a new chain and glanced at yours and just thought it's a 520----it's not. Most bikes this size I've owned would have a 520--but this bike has a 525.
Knowing how chain sizing works is interesting.
The numbers always refer to increments of 1/8"
If the first number is a 5---------it means it's 5 times 1/8"----------or 5/8" (pin to pin)
If the second is a 2----it means 2 times 1/8"---------------which is 2/8" ---which is 1/4" (this is the inside roller length)
So what about a 525 size-----how does that work ????
First number is a 5----so the link is 5/8" long ---pin to pin.
The second 2 numbers are 25---what the hell does that mean ??? It means 2.5 times 1/8"--------which is 5/16".
So our chains are 5/8" X 5/16"
No metrics with motorcycle chains.
Clear as mud------------read all that again--------------very sloooooooowly. Took me awhile to get it.
BigDog

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

So any chain longer than say 114 links will work, just cut to length, grind off the necessary rivet head and drive it out. The standard DID's are tough & economical, maybe $40ish, I'm not a big fan of O-ring chain anyway. Mostly a way to hold in water & rot the chain, IMHO. Lube early & lube often, I say. E-Bay & Amazon are sources for half links. ( https://www.feked.com/ ) is another good one. If the chain lifts about 1/2 half of a tooth up off the sprocket (backside test, full contact area, checks for net wear/stretch) it's on it's way out anyhow. If the teeth aren't fish hooked, a new chain will allow you to get whatever life's left from the sprockets.

https://www.wemoto.com/info/chain_dimensions
Metric Dimensions
Chain   Pitch   Width   Roller Diameter
415   12.70mm   4.88mm   7.75mm
420   12.70mm   6.35mm   7.75mm
428   12.70mm   7.75mm   8.51mm
520   15.88mm   6.35mm   10.16mm
525   15.88mm   7.85mm   10.16mm
530   15.88mm   9.53mm   10.16mm
532   15.88mm   9.53mm   11.10mm
630   19.05mm   9.53mm   11.91mm
632   19.05mm   9.66mm   12.68mm
Side plate thickness varies with grade and make of chain. As a rule, 1.5 to 2.6 mm. It is important for safety to join chain with the manufacturers correct Rivet Soft Link or Split Spring Link.
Size, Manufacturer, and grade are often stamped on some of the side plates.
A trifecta of Pre-Unit Bullets: a Red Deluxe 500, a Green Standard 500, and a Black ES 350.


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #23 on: April 20, 2021, 07:28:00 pm
Okay, I have been at my dealer - and I am not really happy with the result...

They checked the bike and told me afterwards that they did some adjustments at the front fork, but found only a minor misalignment there. The wheels were now both aligned and the chain now had the correct tension.
But on my subsequent test drive, the same effect was still noticeable when driving hands-free (I still have to lean far to the left when I ride hands-free, because otherwise the bike turns right)


So I went back to the dealer, who explained to me that he couldn't optimise anything further because everything was already exhausted. The rest was just Indian standard dispersion.

When I test rode his demonstration bike, which showed exactly the same effect, I resigned myself to it.

I will rarely ride freehand anyway, and beside this effect I still love the bike...

Regards
Toni


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #24 on: April 20, 2021, 07:38:50 pm
@portisheadric:
Good point

Theoretical consideration at the rear wheel:


I just measured the thickness of the chainring, it is about 7.2 mm. The clear width in the chain is about 7.8 mm. This means that in the optimum case there is 0.3 mm air on both sides of a tooth.
The chainring has a diameter of approx. 190 mm. However, the chain only rests on about half of it. That means at about 85 mm the skew would have to be less than 0.3 mm otherwise wear would occur. That sounds now very closely tolerated. Do I have an error in thinking?

Ok,extrapolated to the wheel and its diameter, that's quite a lot....

Regards
Toni

Corrected a mistake, previously 190m, now 190 mm


longstrokeclassic

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 900
  • Karma: 0
Reply #25 on: April 20, 2021, 07:58:28 pm
.
« Last Edit: April 20, 2021, 08:09:32 pm by portisheadric »
Never underestimate the value of improved combustion efficiency and reducing parasitic engine and rolling chassis losses.


zimmemr

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,873
  • Karma: 0
Reply #26 on: April 21, 2021, 12:14:16 am
The Himalayan final drive chain is a 525, according to this fellow:
xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
https://advrider.com/f/threads/royal-enfield-himalayan-owners-thread.1253460/page-741

My USA 2019 Himalayan chain is a 525------with 110 links.
I'm just putting this out there in case you are going order a new chain and glanced at yours and just thought it's a 520----it's not. Most bikes this size I've owned would have a 520--but this bike has a 525.
Knowing how chain sizing works is interesting.
The numbers always refer to increments of 1/8"
If the first number is a 5---------it means it's 5 times 1/8"----------or 5/8" (pin to pin)
If the second is a 2----it means 2 times 1/8"---------------which is 2/8" ---which is 1/4" (this is the inside roller length)
So what about a 525 size-----how does that work ????
First number is a 5----so the link is 5/8" long ---pin to pin.
The second 2 numbers are 25---what the hell does that mean ??? It means 2.5 times 1/8"--------which is 5/16".
So our chains are 5/8" X 5/16"
No metrics with motorcycle chains.
Clear as mud------------read all that again--------------very sloooooooowly. Took me awhile to get it.
BigDog

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

So any chain longer than say 114 links will work, just cut to length, grind off the necessary rivet head and drive it out. The standard DID's are tough & economical, maybe $40ish, I'm not a big fan of O-ring chain anyway. Mostly a way to hold in water & rot the chain, IMHO. Lube early & lube often, I say. E-Bay & Amazon are sources for half links. ( https://www.feked.com/ ) is another good one. If the chain lifts about 1/2 half of a tooth up off the sprocket (backside test, full contact area, checks for net wear/stretch) it's on it's way out anyhow. If the teeth aren't fish hooked, a new chain will allow you to get whatever life's left from the sprockets.

https://www.wemoto.com/info/chain_dimensions
Metric Dimensions
Chain   Pitch   Width   Roller Diameter
415   12.70mm   4.88mm   7.75mm
420   12.70mm   6.35mm   7.75mm
428   12.70mm   7.75mm   8.51mm
520   15.88mm   6.35mm   10.16mm
525   15.88mm   7.85mm   10.16mm
530   15.88mm   9.53mm   10.16mm
532   15.88mm   9.53mm   11.10mm
630   19.05mm   9.53mm   11.91mm
632   19.05mm   9.66mm   12.68mm
Side plate thickness varies with grade and make of chain. As a rule, 1.5 to 2.6 mm. It is important for safety to join chain with the manufacturers correct Rivet Soft Link or Split Spring Link.
Size, Manufacturer, and grade are often stamped on some of the side plates.

Nice work there ACR. FWIW a couple of old timers in the motorcycle industry have told me that the 525 chain was developed for off road bikes. It was thought the extra width would improve longevity without the extra weight of a 530, this is all anecdotal and I've never thought to verify it one way or another. I know we always had a roll of it in the shop, but I don't recall selling very much of it.


Richard230

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,050
  • Karma: 0
Reply #27 on: April 21, 2021, 01:08:44 am
BTW, my 125 hp 2002 Yamaha FZ1 uses a 525 drive chain.
2018 16.6 kWh Zero S, 2009 BMW F650GS, 2020 KTM Duke 390, 2002 Yamaha FZ1


Toni59

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 139
  • Karma: 0
Reply #28 on: April 21, 2021, 01:49:59 am
Thank you Zimmemr and Azcal for your explanation regarding chain dimensions.
I must admit that for us European it is always a nightmare to think in inches  ;D
But at least now the naming is clear...

Regards

Toni


zimmemr

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 2,873
  • Karma: 0
Reply #29 on: April 21, 2021, 07:04:37 pm
BTW, my 125 hp 2002 Yamaha FZ1 uses a 525 drive chain.

 I think they went to the 525 to save weight over the 530. It's certainly strong enough. As I recall, at one time there were aftermarket kits available to downsize the chain on some sportbikes for guys that wanted to save every ounce.