Recent Posts

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Campfire Talk / Re: SSR 250 Buccaneer
« Last Post by AzCal Retred on Today at 04:11:51 am »
What a beauty! I'm a sucker for those high flange alloy rims. Tossing our 6-8 pounds of steel off of each wheel just has to be better.
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Lower handlebars for Interceptor
« Last Post by Bagonne on Today at 04:10:04 am »
I just realized that I have the handlebar relocaters that move the bars 25mm back toward the tank.  I guess that's why they hit. 

So, nevermind and carry on
Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Starting Probs and spark plug/coil
« Last Post by AzCal Retred on Today at 04:08:04 am »
Here is a diagram I made for another member.

If the points are opening & closing, and you have a (+) to the coil, the low side of the winding grounds thru the points when they close, creating a magnetic field in the primary (low voltage) winding. When they open the magnetic field collapses, and a spark is generated on the coil secondary (high voltage) winding.

There is no need for guesswork or frustration.

Key OFF. Take out the spark plug. Open the wire to the distributor at the blade connector, read Ohms to ground thru it to the distributor as you rotate the engine through the compression (power) stroke. When you read the points, the Ohms will go to under one Ohm when closed, near infinite when opened. Any readings other than that need investigation. The condenser is open circuit to DC.

Leave the distributor wire open. Lift the (+) feeding the coil. Turn the ignition key ON. Read the ohms of the lead coming in to the distributor at the open blade connector from the coil to ground; it has to be "infinite". If not, find out why. The distributor is isolated electrically, if there is a connection to ground something is either failed or mis-wired.

Turn the ignition key OFF. Again, read the ohms of the lead coming in to the distributor from the coil to ground. The key switch grounds the coil on most of these machines to force them off. Keeping the coil grounded prevents a spark from happening. Grounded is good in this situation.

Lay the coil (+) back down. With key ON, again read the VOLTAGE to ground on the wire coming in to the distributor. It should be 12.5 - 13.5 VDC. Key OFF - back to zero.

Hook up distributor wire blade connector. Key ON, kick over and verify a spark at the exposed plug center electrode to the side electrode. Anything electrical can be failed right out of the box, don't assume.

If you have spark & compression, all you need is fuel. Use some starting fluid to get a "chuff" out of the old girl. If it chuffs, start in on the carburetor. Disassemble, remove the various jets, blow out all passages with WD-40. Clean as necessary, no grit, crud or varnish allowed.

Do things methodically, a step at a time, PROVE to yourself what you think you know. If you see a solid spark, and know it's at the right time, and you prove it has compression, and the carb is clean[/u ] & properly adjusted, it rather has to run.

650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Tappet Settings Question
« Last Post by RalphG on Today at 03:39:50 am »
I carefully used Yamabond adhesive to retain the valve cover o-ring to the valve cover.  I just put it in the groove in the cover and put the cover on a smooth surface overnight with a weight on it.  That worked well.  I got a spare o-ring, just in case.

Also, I set all valves .001" above spec.  I plan to extend my valve adjustment intervals a bit and my rather moderate use of throttle plus the small increase in tappet clearances should prevent any burnt valves.  I hope.

650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: In praise of the stock pipes
« Last Post by 6504me on Today at 03:16:29 am »
Well, the price is right on the Emgo items.   Are you running them with any extra baffles or as shipped?

Just as they came out of the boxes. Had it side by side with the street S&S mufflers that are the EXACTLY the same as the AEW 102s.

The EMGOS are a bit louder but a completely different tone.

I don't care for the S&S/AEW102s cause the brushed finish just doesn't look right to me with the chrome header pipes.

I'm at 7k feet and after installing the EMGOs my bike is snappier off the corners and pulls strong from an idle all the way up. No flat spots or hesitation... just strong steady pull.
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Tappet Settings Question
« Last Post by Jack Straw on Today at 02:58:46 am »
A tiny bit loose is not a real problem.  Yes the gasket is a pisser.  Also, take care that the sealing ring at the 6mm fixing bolts does not get misplaced.  It will leak badly.  Don't ask me how I know ::)
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: Out and about on your 650 - photos
« Last Post by clachcik on Today at 02:57:07 am »
Riding around on the back roads after a rain storm <3 In love with this motorcycle!
650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Tappet Settings Question
« Last Post by clachcik on Today at 02:52:19 am »
So I know the tappet's need to be set at .08mm for intake and .18mm for exhaust. Unfortunately I can't find any feeler gauges with a .18mm. Mine goes from .01 to .10 then increments of 5 so I am left with .15 and .20. When I did my first service I used the .20mm for the exhaust and am continuing on looking for a .18mm gauge. Am I going to have any issues riding with my exhaust tappet's set at .20mm for now? Also that gasket was a pain in my butt to be honest. I put some silicone sealant around the top part to keep it from falling out and I am hoping whatever left over sealant leaked out didn't get inside of the engine itself. So far no issues and already put a little over 150 miles since my first service and haven't blown up yet!
Bullet Iron Barrel / Re: Starting Probs and spark plug/coil
« Last Post by mitchell on Today at 02:30:24 am »
OK Guys
Today I pulled out the old coil, replaced it, the coil wire to the plug, a new plug, cleaned the carb, battery charged, new air filter, gas in the tank, kill switch has never been used and was disconnected 20 years ago(never quite figured out a need for that thing), all wiring looks good, I dipped the tip of the plug in petrol and go.

The plug I now have in there is from India, Mico/Bosch W145 Z 1. Will new-in-a-box plugs go bad over time? But I have now tried three different ones. I tried attaching the pic of it but I don't see that it did indeed attach to this post. It is a short threaded plug and one I got at a shop/dealer, I guess.

Ammeter doesn't move a mm. Even if the ammeter is bad, and I am thinking it is not, the bike should still start, no?

Lights work, horn works and when I flip on the lights, the ammeter lights up too.

Tomorrow I will pull off the headlight and tackle anything in there that might look suss but the ammeter is connected properly. I will also see if I have a new set of points and a condenser. If not, where can I get a set quickly? India takes weeks on ebay.

It's all my own fault as I had it up and running well last summer after I got my strength back from covid but I haven't ridden it in maybe 7-8 months,,,not even cranked it as I was too, well lazy/procrastinating/busy working. And, it is kept outside under a cover here in Florida.
As we all know, these beasts need to be running to stay running well.

Worse to worst, I will have it towed to a mechanic but that grinds me since, up to now, I have done all the work on this thing myself. Plus the cost of a mechanic.

I know it is probably something aggravatingly simple, but what could it be?

Also, if anyone knows how I can get the two carb gaskets quickly, That would be appreciated. The one on the float bowl and the 'diamond' - shaped one sealing the air flow from the filter box.

Thank you all


650 Twin - Interceptor/GT / Re: High compression piston kit
« Last Post by Gremlinsteve on Today at 02:29:20 am »
I love my 865
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