Author Topic: Idle Speed Adjustment  (Read 9187 times)

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klutz

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on: March 26, 2020, 12:16:59 pm
My 2019 Interceptor seems to idle a little fast at around 1500rpm. Is it possible to adjust this ? There is a throttle stop screw on the right side but I have backed this right off to no effect.


BRG-BIRD

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Reply #1 on: March 26, 2020, 12:48:43 pm
It is ECU controlled, hopefully you got the throttle stop adjusted back to where it was. I’m not aware of any way to adjust, hopefully some of the brighter bulbs will chime in with better info. :)


LongMan

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Reply #2 on: March 26, 2020, 06:14:04 pm
My 2019 Interceptor seems to idle a little fast at around 1500rpm. Is it possible to adjust this ? There is a throttle stop screw on the right side but I have backed this right off to no effect.
Is that at full operating temperature? The Interceptor does idle at higher revs when it is cold, and then slowly turns down to 1200RPM. This can take a while, on mine it can take 10-15 minutes, depending on the driving conditions.


klutz

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Reply #3 on: March 26, 2020, 10:45:23 pm
Thanks for the replies. I think you are right about the temperature, I left it running for some time today and the idle revs did eventually drop to 1200 which still seems slightly high to me but is the book figure.


diogo_sergio

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Reply #4 on: March 28, 2020, 02:45:04 pm
I remember reading somewhere that the idle speed is set a little higher than usual to compensate for the lean fuel mix on low RPMs and make take off a little smoother.


George 350

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Reply #5 on: March 28, 2020, 04:43:12 pm
There is no 'lean fuel mix' at low rpms - the AFR is lambda sensor controlled to stoich except when the engine is cold when it will be a bit richer.
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #6 on: March 28, 2020, 09:34:43 pm
   I have not seen the EFI system on these bike's.  But a fast idle at a cold start up would be normal with EFI.... You probably noticed it on your car . Particularly when it is cold.  Somewhat similar to pulling a choke on a carb to get the motor up to operating temp quicker.  But I imagine these bike's may have a stepper motor , that controls the throttle plate, or a by-pass around the throttle plate,  in the throttle body , to crack it open more when the motor is cold.  Not sure ?   And if these motors have as good an oiling and cooling system on them as the UCE's do ?     And it looks like they are better, with that oil cooler added.  Then it can take quite a long time in cool or cold weather for the motor to get up to operating temps.   So if you were to return to idle , before the engine was at operating temp... the idle may still be high.   The 1200 rpm's at a hot idle .... i'm assuming....  is probably what the bikes battery and charging system needs to run the EFI system with enough power at idle , and to not drain the battery.   The output from the alternator should be RPM dependent...
« Last Edit: March 28, 2020, 09:52:19 pm by gashousegorilla »
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jimku

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Reply #7 on: March 28, 2020, 10:59:36 pm
That makes perfect sense.  Before the motor can get up to full temperature it has to heat all of the oil in the oil cooler and all of the oil in the crankcase.  And the oil cooler is doing its job all the while, slowing the process.  I have a temp gauge for an oil filler cap.  My bike has to idle for a full half hour for the needle to move even a third of the way to where it is after a 10-mile ride.  I have no idea where the bike's ECU temp sensor is located.  My temp gauge just measures the air temp inside the crankcase.
« Last Edit: March 28, 2020, 11:02:40 pm by jimku »
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gashousegorilla

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Reply #8 on: March 28, 2020, 11:45:08 pm
   Yup  !   And the fuel has to vaporize to burn efficiently  .  If the motor is cold , it won't.   Liquid gasoline does not burn.   And if the combustion chamber is surrounded by cold oil  and aluminum.... it may take a while for that to happen.    It takes a good ten minutes for  UCE at idle in 50f  degrees ambient temps,   to see 180 f degrees at the cylinder head.     And that's just getting into normal operating temp.   With two cylinders lighting up on that 650 .... and an oil cooler ?   I imagine the time frame is similar.   The UCE's have a manual system when cold ,  instead  of a stepper motor.   A manual "By-starter " .   You hold a lever down , and it opens a valve in the throttle body , which by passes the throttle plate and lets more air into the cylinder... which helps to vaporize the fuel.  I suspect the system on the 650 is just automatic...

  Got an infrared Thermometer at home jimku ?      Cold start you bike in the morning... note the out side air temp .   Then shoot the cylinder head at the base of the spark plug and note your rpm's  when the temp gets up around 200 f.   Or note at what temp the idle drops down to 1200...
« Last Edit: March 29, 2020, 12:05:38 am by gashousegorilla »
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twocoolgliders

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Reply #9 on: March 29, 2020, 12:36:12 am
Exactly!


Cookie



   I have not seen the EFI system on these bike's.  But a fast idle at a cold start up would be normal with EFI.... You probably noticed it on your car . Particularly when it is cold.  Somewhat similar to pulling a choke on a carb to get the motor up to operating temp quicker.  But I imagine these bike's may have a stepper motor , that controls the throttle plate, or a by-pass around the throttle plate,  in the throttle body , to crack it open more when the motor is cold.  Not sure ?   And if these motors have as good an oiling and cooling system on them as the UCE's do ?     And it looks like they are better, with that oil cooler added.  Then it can take quite a long time in cool or cold weather for the motor to get up to operating temps.   So if you were to return to idle , before the engine was at operating temp... the idle may still be high.   The 1200 rpm's at a hot idle .... i'm assuming....  is probably what the bikes battery and charging system needs to run the EFI system with enough power at idle , and to not drain the battery.   The output from the alternator should be RPM dependent...


gashousegorilla

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Reply #10 on: March 29, 2020, 05:59:03 pm
It is ECU controlled, hopefully you got the throttle stop adjusted back to where it was. I’m not aware of any way to adjust, hopefully some of the brighter bulbs will chime in with better info. :)

  I'm thinking if these bikes have throttle position sensors, if he were to find the throttle position sensor voltage spec. in the book.    There should be a Voltage spec at a closed position and a fully open position.    Hook up a multi meter to the signal wire and ground wire at the sensor and read the voltage  with the throttle position closed ... at a hot idle, and make sure it's within the spec.   The throttle position sensor  "tells"  the ECU  what position the throttle plate is at ,  and with the input from the rest of the sensors helps determine  fueling and ignition timing.    All those voltage and resistance reading that the ECU is getting back form the sensors , should match to what was programmed into the ECU... for a given throttle position. 
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twocoolgliders

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Reply #11 on: March 29, 2020, 07:01:03 pm
It seems to me that "klutz's" bike is running 100% normal....high idle until warmed up, then 1200 RPM at idle....
Specifications say idle: 1200 rpm + or - 80....  so 1120 to 1280 is OK.


Mine takes probably 10 or 15 minutes to settle down to 1200.....from a cold start.


Cookie

  I'm thinking if these bikes have throttle position sensors, if he were to find the throttle position sensor voltage spec. in the book.    There should be a Voltage spec at a closed position and a fully open position.    Hook up a multi meter to the signal wire and ground wire at the sensor and read the voltage  with the throttle position closed ... at a hot idle, and make sure it's within the spec.   The throttle position sensor  "tells"  the ECU  what position the throttle plate is at ,  and with the input from the rest of the sensors helps determine  fueling and ignition timing.    All those voltage and resistance reading that the ECU is getting back form the sensors , should match to what was programmed into the ECU... for a given throttle position.


gashousegorilla

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Reply #12 on: March 29, 2020, 08:24:21 pm
   Yeah , most likely.     The output voltage at idle on that TPS is .7v  plus or minus .35v  ... that's wide spread.   I figure he would have to be really off on his throttle plate adjustment, to be out of spec.    Out put voltage from the TPS  from a closed position  to an open position , and all points in between will have an effect of fueling.      So yeah... probably not a good idea to mess around with it.   It does look like these bikes DO have a stepper motor on the throttle body ,  no separate idle air screw like on the earlier bikes...   
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twocoolgliders

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Reply #13 on: March 29, 2020, 08:33:21 pm
I did a quick search in the maintenance manual...and I can not find any reference to a way to adjust idle speed.

So I figure it is "baked in" to the ECU map.


Cookie




   Yeah , most likely.     The output voltage at idle on that TPS is .7v  plus or minus .35v  ... that's wide spread.   I figure he would have to be really off on his throttle plate adjustment, to be out of spec.    Out put voltage from the TPS  from a closed position  to an open position , and all points in between will have an effect of fueling.      So yeah... probably not a good idea to mess around with it.   It does look like these bikes DO have a stepper motor on the throttle body ,  no separate idle air screw like on the earlier bikes...


gashousegorilla

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Reply #14 on: March 29, 2020, 08:58:26 pm
  Yup.  That stepper motor just opens up it looks like ... to by-pass throttle plate.  The map sensor up stream in the intake , may pick up that change in manifold pressure and with the throttle position sensor , adjust fuel.   Along with the temp senor and the IAT and etc.    All those readings being fed back to the ECU ... adjusts the pulse width at the injectors.  A combination "baked" into the look up tables in the ECU...
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