[mike_bike_kite]

Just noticed the engine light was on while coming back from an errand. I always use the kick starter when starting the bike, it started as normal when I set off this morning but took about 10 kicks to get going when coming back which is unusual. The bike does run fine though. I did a few checks: the battery shows 12.6 V when engine off. I checked the connecting wires and they looked fine. Tested the battery by using an earth elsewhere on the bike and wiggling the wires and it still showed 12.6V so I'm guessing the earth wire is OK. When the bike's running I get 14.1V which seems OK to me. I undid the fuel cap just in case it was a vacuum thing but no noticeable change. All the lights, indicators and horn work fine. I set off on the bike and the ABS light goes out but the engine light stays on.

Ideas? thoughts? sympathy? other things I can test?

My bikes a 2018 Classic 500 Pegasus, it gets a fairly easy life and stays in the garage unless the sun's shining.

[axman88]

Pull the code(s) via the blinky light procedure? 

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1309245/Royal-Enfield-Classic-500-2009.html?page=164#manual

[mike_bike_kite]

Sorry for the delay ... life

I wasn't sure how to get a code from for the MIL and it's quite difficult checking connections to something when I've no idea where it is
I did spot this on the Lambda sensor wire which looks very suspect. Is there a simple way of checking if the sensor and cable are working?

Cheers
Mike

PS Sorry couldn't get image to show so had to use link

[Haggis]

Looks like a normal sensor and wiring. What is it you think is wrong with it?
Its a 4 wire sensor  two for the heater circuit and two for the sensor circuit.
If you look in your fuse box compartment you will find a single wire with nothing attached.
This is your ucu mil light fault code check wire. You earth it a d then switch on the ignition.
The mil will flash a sequence of flashing.  The number of flashes tells you which sensor is faulty.

[axman88]

And here is an excellent video from a forum member showing the process, except for a Bullet, not a Classic.

As Haggis said the connector will be found in the Left side toolbox where the ECU and relays live.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6I8ipAiZFGs


Also, just FYI, I experienced an intermittent recurring MIL light illumination when the NEG battery terminal got loose.

[mike_bike_kite]

Thanks guys, I'll try that in the morning. I did open up the electrical box and just thought yikes and then closed it again. Fortunat5ely your description of getting the MIL code sounds quite simple and I think I can manage that.

I thought there was an issue with the wire near the kink, I thought initially it had burnt through and couldn't see why it would it it was a sensor. Then I heard there's a heater in the lambda sensor and I figured that might do it. Then I read there's a fuse so figured it wouldn't. Hopefully the MIL test will produce some results.

[mike_bike_kite]

It turned out to be pretty easy to test. I'm getting 6 long and 6 short which suggests the crank position sensor. Sounds like I'll have to  take it into the shop. I might try resetting the  MIL error code and see if it still happens.

[heloego]

The ECU retains the last code registered, so clear it first, then disconnect, inspect, clean, and re-rack the CPS connector with power off. If the code persists you actually could have a bad sensor.
But do this first and save yourself a few coins.

[axman88]

It turned out to be pretty easy to test. I'm getting 6 long and 6 short which suggests the crank position sensor. Sounds like I'll have to  take it into the shop. I might try resetting the  MIL error code and see if it still happens.

That's a pretty critical component, but I would check battery and ground connections and connectors for the CPS and the ECU before condemning it.   If system voltage gets intermittent or variable, the ECU can interpret system signals in peculiar ways.  Electrical system is especially vulnerable in humid or rainy weather, or in salty seaside environment.

[Haggis]

Its almost certainly NOT the cps.
You say the bike is running fine so the cps is working.
Clear the codes and see what comes back.

[mike_bike_kite]

Unfortunately I have no idea where the wires are that connect to the crank sensor are so difficult for me to test Luckily I'd already booked the bike to my local RE shop (Hartgate in Mitcham). Weird thing was the MIL light didn't stay on today when I started the bike - I didn't reset the MIL thing as I thought the guy at the shop would want to see it. The bike started immediately when I kick started it, the MIL light went out and it rode fine down to the shop (actually it rode fine while the MIL light was showing).

They took the bike round the back, reset the error code anyway and started it. They said the bike seemed fine and that the wiring was also fine. I guess I should of asked where the connecting wires were. I should also of asked if they could connect the lower rubber strap that holds the battery (how the hell does that go back on?). Anyway, they said the bike was fine and that I should just come in if the light comes on again. Best of all they didn't charge me. Had a nice relaxing ride home.

[Haggis]

If you had a fault that brings on the mil light, it takes a certain number of NO FAULT starts before the ecu decides to turn the light off.
Whatever your fault was, probably a connector,  sorted its self and you were left with a light but no actual problem.
Follow the wires that come from the top of the left engine case. Next to the oil filler plug.
Three yellow are you alternator,  the other two are your cps.

[axman88]

I should also of asked if they could connect the lower rubber strap that holds the battery (how the hell does that go back on?).

There are hooks as part of the sheet metal of the battery box, on the surface facing in.    I fasten the right sides of top and bottom straps, then do the left side by feel.  It's a bit finicky.

Glad you got your ECU issue sorted.  Did it pop up in rainy weather?