[gashousegorilla]

I whacked a new Continental Conti GO 120/90 on the back.
Fouled on the chainguard but my wife fixed it.
Rides nicely and feels more firm on the bends.
Also, thanks for the compliments re the head work.
I'm an old bloke with around 35 years pure engine experience, mainly high performance eg. top fuel, blown alcohol, sprint cars, rally, Lycoming and Continental aviation engines, Bathurst 1000 etc.
We work on small engines these days like ride on mowers, chainsaws, RC motors.
BUT !! Now I have the Bullet to play with.
Bought a spare engine that head is going onto, with serious cams, Power Command V, bottom end balance, alloy con rod and a piston from a turbo Nissan engine

  You got a good wife Chilli  !   I'm running the same size rear tire on mine... Nice isn't it ?    Cool stuff let us know how you do along the way.

[malky]

and a piston from a turbo Nissan engine

What piston are you using ?

[Chilliman]

The old man back again.
Learned heaps about my Bullet in the past few days.
I did an oil change using 2.75 litres and it vomited oil out the air filter housing.
Read the service manual a little more carefully and replace the oil with 2.4 litres and it vomited that out too.
I started to think I had a blowby problem but it happened too fast and coincidentally with the oil change.
Dropped the oil again and measured 1.65 litres..........
Before I dropped the oil that was left I looked into the sight glass and could just see the oil level at the top of the inspection glass.
I had a good look at the inside of the RH crank case cover and I didn't belive there was any way to get a true reading in the inspection glass the way the baffles in the cover are arranged, so I milled a 3/16th hole through the baffle immediately beside the inspection glass so a small amount of oil is fed to the inspection glass chamber actually allowing the oil level in the case to be represented in the inspection glass without upsetting any dynamic flow which may exist around the baffle.
I use Morey's oil stabiliser 15% in the oil and it has seriously reduced the vibration.
"Roy" (my bikes name) now cruises so smoothly at 100kmh it is crazy.
I took a young bloke for a ride and he said the unbelievable words, "this bike runs really smooth."
I might record him saying that and put it on youtube 
When we got home, no oil blowby. Need a new rear sprocket and chain.
The rear sprocket is missing a few teeth and looks like an old man smiling.
Re the piston it is from an RB30 turbo high silican job BUT I need to mic it up and measure pin height and diameter for suitability.
Forged pistons are strong but heavy but high silicon hypereutectic types are fine for the piston speed this engine will see.
The Japanese have made an art form of seriously strong high silicon pistons for decades.
I will keep you posted about all this.
I have an aluminium con rod I am dressing at the moment.
It was the roughest thing I have ever seen come out of a box for immediate use.
Shameful.
Just for something to do between beers, I degreed up the standard camshaft in a 2013 Bullet 500 to get the specs.
Because of the woeful amount of technical information I am kind of making a maunual of specs as I go.
Do they have LSD in India?
Because the specs on these cams are beyond weird. The bloke who designed the grind must have been having one of those transcendental guru moments when he put this one on paper
I have seen tougher grinds in Briggs and Stratton side valve engine !
If anyone wants the specs..................
Okay that's it for now.
I have done my job as an old man and talked too much.
Hope I'm still on topic............I do drift a bit......but mainly only on dirt roads

[tooseevee]

The old man back again.
Learned heaps about my Bullet in the past few days.
I did an oil change using 2.75 litres and it vomited oil out the air filter housing.
I use Morey's oil stabiliser 15% in the oil and it has seriously reduced the vibration.

Just for something to do between beers, I degreed up the standard camshaft in a 2013 Bullet 500 to get the specs.
Because of the woeful amount of technical information I am kind of making a maunual of specs as I go.
Do they have LSD in India?
Because the specs on these cams are beyond weird. The bloke who designed the grind must have been having one of those transcendental guru moments when he put this one on paper
I have seen tougher grinds in Briggs and Stratton side valve engine

          Another old man chimes in  :

           Checking the oil on these beasts is certainly nothing new here. I've been reading about checking the oil since I joined this group in 2009 (I have an AVL with a dipstick). Thousands of words written on this subject. I don't know how they (the designers) could make it any more of a pain in the ass than it is.

            You will always get blow out if you have even "Slightly" too much oil in the crankcase and if you keep the stock system it will blow out all over your air filter and drain out the bottom of the case and kill the engine running rich if it's bad enough. I got rid of it all long ago. ALL of the mandated crap. Now I no longer suck oil into the engine and with the mods I've done the engine runs more like it's supposed to. If I had more $$$ and mor time, it would run even better.

             I figured mine out years ago; some never do it seems. I, like you, am used to just checking my oil and knowing what I got. Period. Simple. What happened?  And why sight glasses? 

              I think the cams are the way they are in order for the engine to be able to run at 1.0 RPM. The Indians seem to like it that way.

               

[gashousegorilla]

The old man back again.
Learned heaps about my Bullet in the past few days.
I did an oil change using 2.75 litres and it vomited oil out the air filter housing.
Read the service manual a little more carefully and replace the oil with 2.4 litres and it vomited that out too.
I started to think I had a blowby problem but it happened too fast and coincidentally with the oil change.
Dropped the oil again and measured 1.65 litres..........
Before I dropped the oil that was left I looked into the sight glass and could just see the oil level at the top of the inspection glass.
I had a good look at the inside of the RH crank case cover and I didn't belive there was any way to get a true reading in the inspection glass the way the baffles in the cover are arranged, so I milled a 3/16th hole through the baffle immediately beside the inspection glass so a small amount of oil is fed to the inspection glass chamber actually allowing the oil level in the case to be represented in the inspection glass without upsetting any dynamic flow which may exist around the baffle.
I use Morey's oil stabiliser 15% in the oil and it has seriously reduced the vibration.
"Roy" (my bikes name) now cruises so smoothly at 100kmh it is crazy.
I took a young bloke for a ride and he said the unbelievable words, "this bike runs really smooth."
I might record him saying that and put it on youtube 
When we got home, no oil blowby. Need a new rear sprocket and chain.
The rear sprocket is missing a few teeth and looks like an old man smiling.
Re the piston it is from an RB30 turbo high silican job BUT I need to mic it up and measure pin height and diameter for suitability.
Forged pistons are strong but heavy but high silicon hypereutectic types are fine for the piston speed this engine will see.
The Japanese have made an art form of seriously strong high silicon pistons for decades.
I will keep you posted about all this.
I have an aluminium con rod I am dressing at the moment.
It was the roughest thing I have ever seen come out of a box for immediate use.
Shameful.
Just for something to do between beers, I degreed up the standard camshaft in a 2013 Bullet 500 to get the specs.
Because of the woeful amount of technical information I am kind of making a maunual of specs as I go.
Do they have LSD in India?
Because the specs on these cams are beyond weird. The bloke who designed the grind must have been having one of those transcendental guru moments when he put this one on paper
I have seen tougher grinds in Briggs and Stratton side valve engine !
If anyone wants the specs..................
Okay that's it for now.
I have done my job as an old man and talked too much.
Hope I'm still on topic............I do drift a bit......but mainly only on dirt roads

    No... your not seeing things, that inlet valve  really  DOESN'T open till AFTER TDC.  Hahaha !!  Good for carrying the whole family on the bike I guess.

  BTW, with the oil level and amounts.  The UCE motor usually won't spew oil out of the case unless i'st over filled.... hell even up to 6500 rpm's.  You really have to get the bike level and up on the center stand to check it.  Run it  for a few minutes , then shut it down and check the level.  I usually leave the level from the bottom third of the glass to around the middle of the glass.   Refilling after an oil change, I usually wind up putting in a bit under two quarts.   If you have that third drain plug under the crank, at the bottom of the motor like on the newer bikes . You may wind up putting in a bit more then those two quart's..... because your getting a bit more out.

[Arizoni]

I totally agree with you GHG.

That 2.75 liters of oil crap is for a brand new, just assembled engine without a trace of oil in it.
For anyone who just changes their oil and oil filter, 1.9 to 2 quarts of oil is just about right on the earlier UCE's with only two drain locations.
It's a bit more for the UCE's with three drains.

[gashousegorilla]

I totally agree with you GHG.

That 2.75 liters of oil crap is for a brand new, just assembled engine without a trace of oil in it.
For anyone who just changes their oil and oil filter, 1.9 to 2 quarts of oil is just about right on the earlier UCE's with only two drain locations.
It's a bit more for the UCE's with three drains.

 Yeah , right Jim ?    I have never seen an issue with a UCE  when the oil level is correct.  Whether the breather is routed into the box or not.  I think that labyrinth in the breather compartment , behind the right side cover does a good job.... unless it is overwhelmed with oil.   The only time spewing oil happened to me, was when I over filled it, AND at sustained rpm's over 4000.   

 IF... that O ring between the oil filter housing on the right side cover , which goes between the oil pump were to be missing or in bad shape ?   I could see maybe some oil spew-age THERE, and into the right side cover giving a false high oil level... maybe ?

[heloego]

 
   In Denver.
   Had a bittersweet memorial ride for a buddy (Craig Amos) who passed away in June.
   East on Colfax to get to Highway 6, then up to Last Shot for lunch, back to Aurora via Golden Gate Park.
   Lovely ride, and I wore Craig's gloves so he'd be there with us.

[Chilliman]

Firstly, g'day heloego,
glad to hear about your run for your mate. I'm sure we all know where you are coming from old son...............

[Chilliman]

Jeez, I can't seem to stop posting!
The whole reason I mucked around with the oiling, was because I had to take the side cover off to replace a tired magneto.
The unit is apparently made by Ducati and has more feild coils on it than the standard peice.
Works great and now I can ride with the light on as I'm supposed to.
Re the sight glasses...........I was referring to the crankcase oil sight/inspection glass thingy. My eyes aren't too bad for an old fella :-)
Re my wife........a true legend.
She is up to speed with EFI on big late model outboards, can pull down, clean, adjust, rebuild and use manometers for syncronising.
We have an oscilloscope here for checking ignition components and charging systems which she uses regularly, but that IS off topic.
So we have made an empirical oil level, that doesn't blow out oil at 100kmh for about 20kms.
Have a good one all, gotta go hit the shed   

[gashousegorilla]

 

Jeez, I can't seem to stop posting!
The whole reason I mucked around with the oiling, was because I had to take the side cover off to replace a tired magneto.
The unit is apparently made by Ducati and has more feild coils on it than the standard peice.
Works great and now I can ride with the light on as I'm supposed to.
Re the sight glasses...........I was referring to the crankcase oil sight/inspection glass thingy. My eyes aren't too bad for an old fella :-)
Re my wife........a true legend.
She is up to speed with EFI on big late model outboards, can pull down, clean, adjust, rebuild and use manometers for syncronising.
We have an oscilloscope here for checking ignition components and charging systems which she uses regularly, but that IS off topic.
So we have made an empirical oil level, that doesn't blow out oil at 100kmh for about 20kms.
Have a good one all, gotta go hit the shed   

 An unattached sister maybe ?   

  Curious about the Con- Rod, why aluminum ?   Lightening things up, revving it up quicker ?  The stock forged rod is pretty tough I have found.

 
   In Denver.
   Had a bittersweet memorial ride for a buddy (Craig Amos) who passed away in June.
   East on Colfax to get to Highway 6, then up to Last Shot for lunch, back to Aurora via Golden Gate Park.
   Lovely ride, and I wore Craig's gloves so he'd be there with us.

 Good to remember a friend or family member, and speak their name so they are not forgotten heloego.   

[Chilliman]

The alloy rod?
Well back in the early 90's when everyone was trying to be like the winners and were using Carillo rods in 350 Chev sprintcars.
I had great success with Manley severe duty rods in blown alcohol engines, and tried them in the sprinter with great success, and with other levels of drag racing and even circuit work.
Light, strong, better acceleration, resistant to fatigue.....all the things the "winners" were saying aluminium rods weren't.
I looked at engines like Briggs and Stratton that operated in the worst possible environment, Triumph engines with alloy rod and steel rod cap and they all had great endurance.
They make the rods out of the same alloy as the spars in jumbo jet wings so it cant be too flakey.
I saw one advertised and bought it for a try.
It was the worst looking piece of dung I had ever seen come out of a box.
Looked like it had been dressed with a hoof rasp.
So we gave it the once over and there you have it.
In my opinion for what it is worth, the UCE motor looks quite strong and that steel rod looks well engineered, but I am not sure what material it is made from, perhaps a nitrogen steel.........a guess.
Hey, my wife has 3 sisters. One is a chef, one is hotel owner and the other is a financial analyst.
So I get good food, good beer and good financial advice quite often.
Here is an off topic question.
What size is the secondary chain on my 2009 Bullet 500?
Back on topic..............what did I do with my UCE today?
Well, I bring "Roy" inside the house at night, and a mate I haven't seen for a while dropped by and I started Roy inside the house for a moment.
I have a very short straight through megaphone and it has a very fantastic "Bdop bdop bdop" song at idle.
A couple of hours later after a few beers, we just had to start Roy again, of course with a couple of tiny revs this time.
My wife Tuyet, walked over, looked at us, went and opened the lounge room windows to let the exhaust fumes out, then came back and said to Roy with a smile, " you are lucky you don't leak oil Roy or you'd be staying outside."
God I have a good wife.

 

[gashousegorilla]

  Hahaha !!  Good stuff Chilli.   Your a breath of fresh air I tell ya.     I like it , and that makes good sense with the Rods too.     A 530-102 chain should do you for that bike.

[Chilliman]

Roger on the chain.
My new rear sprocket arrived today and I need that new chain.
The old one flops around like a cock in a shirtsleeve.
Oh...obviously I mean a male hen. :-)

[johno]

DID 530nz heavy duty chain works well on the enfield