[Arizoni]

The G5 comes with a standard non-O-ring chain and I think I read somewhere that the kick-starter side cover that is used on that bike doesn't have enough clearance for a O-ring chain so, no, I used a standard, American made Diamond 530 chain.

I've used Diamond chains in some of the machinery I've designed and it proved to be of top quality.

I don't know about their motorcycle chains but I expect it to give me a at least 10,000 miles.
We'll see.

[Jack Leis]

 A 530 O-ring chain will fit a G5 including an 18 tooth countershaft sprocket with no modification.

[Ducati Scotty]

There you have it!

[Jack Leis]

 Went for a spin yesterday before the Super Bowl game . I had my 3rd near death experience with the stock Avon's. Bare was right. New Dunlops are on there way.

[dpote]

I removed the air box and put on a K&N air filter, re-jetted the carb, removed the battery box and relocated a new battery to the left side tool box, replaced front brake lever and housing, adjusted the front brake, removed the panniers and relocated the trafficator lights. So far I'm happy with it, but the panniers are going back on.

[GlennF]

Went for a spin yesterday before the Super Bowl game . I had my 3rd near death experience with the stock Avon's. Bare was right. New Dunlops are on there way.

I have never had trouble with the stock rear but the stock front can be a touch hair raising under brakes on the loose stuff.

I have taken to two finger braking when off the bitumen.

[barenekd]

The last couple of days, I've been working on my bike; oil change, fix the seeping in the timing case joint, putting on an 18T sprocket and a new O-ring chain.
All did not necessarily go well staring with the sprocket change. It started when I could get the nut off mostly because I didn't have the proper socket. I tried other tools, a big crescent wrench. That slipped and crunched my little finger into the rear foot peg, ripping most of the hide off a knuckle. Had to waste time bandaging that up! Then I tried a chisel, wouldn't budge it. So that means a trip and another hour or so wasted going to harbor Freight. I got a 3/4" drive Metric socket set from 19MM to 50MM. 47 Bucks. At least the price was tolerable. I came back home and cranked the brake pedal down to stop the wheel from turning while I'm trying to get this nut off. The wrench would still turn the wheel. I stuck a bolt in between the sprocket and chain. That finally got everything stopped and I finally got the nut off with the assistance of a fork leg tube that serves as a BIG breaker bar. It's starting to get late and I ave to fix dinner for my wife so I clean myself up and got the dinner ready to cook after a couple of missteps there that wasted some time. This ain't the cooking channel, so I won't go into that! Anyway I got the food in the oven, then went back out to get the new chain on. Since I had to changed sprockets, I couldn't use the old chain to pull the new one through, so I had to thread it though, but the timing case was off so it wasn't bad. I got it through and put the master link in and thought, Damn, that looks awfully loose. Aw, shite, I forgot that the chain was 2 links too long because the outfit I orders the chain from didn't have the 102 link job, so I had to order a 104. Dinner as ready and my wife was home and wanted her parking spot in the garage, so I had to move the bike over into it's normal parking spot. I pulled the master link out and the chain fell off the sprocket as she was driving up, but I had to pull the chain off to remove a couple of links. I quit for the night.
Started out earlier today and got the links removed and the chain installed. I got real lucky, I didn't have to adjust the chain at all, it was perfect where it was. No doubt, I'll have to do it soon as the chain beds in. Anyway, time to reseal the timing cover. The cover had a gasket on it and I managed to remove it intact. I got out my sealer stuff and discovered that it as almost empty and drying out, but to keep from having to go out again I gave the stuff a shot and it went on OK and I got the cover back on. It seems to have sealed the cover up. I stuck the filter back in and put the plugs back on the bottom of the case and filled it with oil. It looked like I overfilled it, but I started it and as it run the level came down as the oil pumped into all the little spots it needs to go. Then the filter cover started leaking. I took the cover and found the O-ring that seals the cover got a bit shaved off it during reinstallation and was now leaking. I put the tiny bit of sealer on it to see if it would hold and it apparently has. I took the bike out for a test ride, then road over to my nearest RE dealer and was going to by some o-rings, only to discover that I had forgotten my wallet! But I checked it for leaks and it wasn't so it didn't matter that much anyway.
The test ride was through my closest canyon and the gearing was alright. It seemed to be a bit more sedate, but I got more speed before I shifted. The seat buzz point went up from 62MPH to about 66MPH which is a bit faster that I normally, so it will be somewhat beneficial. I did find myself staying in fourth gear on the streets in the 40-50 range instead of shifting.  When I did realize what gear I as in I did shift. The gearing should benefit mileage as song as you keep short shifting. The acceleration doesn't really appear to be affected to any great degree.  I think I'm gonna like the gearing.
 So when I got home I had found that the seat I had ordered from CMW on the off chance that it might fit. So I stuck it on and it fit fairly well. I need to bend the tab that holds the front down a bit to make it a bit snugger, but basically it fits the bike! But it doesn't fit me very well. I'm going to have to rework the foam a bit, but just a minor deal.
Here are some pictures I took of the old OEM chain, good for 6500 miles, vs a real chain that should be good for 30,000 plus.
Note that the side plates are much thicker on the Tsubaki; .085 vs .062 on the OEM. The OEM chain also has split pin bushings which are guaranteed not to last very long, See the bend in the worn out OEM? That's shot bushings and pins. The Tsubaki has solid bushings that are a heavier material than the OEM. $60 for an OEM vs 110 for a Tsubaki...You do the math.
Bare

[Arizoni]

Today, I checked out the bulb for the "Low Fuel" indicator.

I was getting near 140 miles after filling the tank the last time and the light usually lights when I apply the brakes.  This time it wasn't lighting.

On the off chance that I was having a "senior moment" and I wrote down the wrong mileage the last time I filled the tank I stopped at the local gas station and filled the tank.  Yup.  It took about 2 gallons.

After returning home I removed the little bulb and tested it.  It was good so I guess the fuel float switch must have a problem.
Probably not worth futzing with because I keep a pretty close eye on my mileage between fillings.

By the way, the three light bulbs that are in that little "guage" for lighting the check engine, low fuel and Royal Enfield logo are just about the tiniest based bulbs I've ever seen.  Because I've had some bulb failures in other locations I have to ask:
Does anyone know what American size they are so I can buy a replacement?

[t120rbullet]

By the way, the three light bulbs that are in that little "guage" for lighting the check engine, low fuel and Royal Enfield logo are just about the tiniest based bulbs I've ever seen.  Because I've had some bulb failures in other locations I have to ask:
Does anyone know what American size they are so I can buy a replacement?

Actually they are Lucas bulbs so you probably won't find an American replacement.
Brit bike places sell em or if you want to go LED,

http://www.ledlight.com/ba5s_led_light_12_volt_low_voltage.aspx

[Arizoni]

Ahh.  The revenge of Lucas strikes again. LOL

Thanks for the link.

[barenekd]

Some guys are using LCD bulbs. There were several postings on them a few months ago. Jack Lies uses them.
Mine went out a few tanks ago and I ran out of gas waiting for the thing to come on. I got 240 miles on that tank of gas! It finally started working again. I don't know what it's problem was.
Mine usually comes on around 200 miles. Are you filling up on the sidestand? I got an extra 50 miles out of mine by putting it on the centerstand. When it does come on I ave about 1/2 gallon left. It takes around 3 gallons to fill up.
Bare

[Arizoni]

"...Are you filling up on the sidestand? ..."
----------------------
No, I always fill it up with it sitting on the center stand.

I always record the mileage on the handlebars using a indelible black "Sharpie" marking pen that I carry in the pocket in my saddlebags.  Then, every so often I just subtract that number from whatever the odometer is listing at the moment.

When the answer gets in the 150-180 mile range I start looking for a gas station.

[GlennF]

If you ride with lights on replacing pilot, parking and speedo illumination lights with LEDs can save about 10 watts of battery drain. That can make a fair difference with charging.

[The Garbone]

"...Are you filling up on the sidestand? ..."
----------------------
No, I always fill it up with it sitting on the center stand.

I always record the mileage on the handlebars using a indelible black "Sharpie" marking pen that I carry in the pocket in my saddlebags.  Then, every so often I just subtract that number from whatever the odometer is listing at the moment.

When the answer gets in the 150-180 mile range I start looking for a gas station.

Hmmm,  I carry a sharpie for work so the writing on the bars thing might just work.    Does it just wipe off or do you need to use cleaner?

[barenekd]

I use the erasable marker pens and put the mileage on the chrome handlebar bracket. It wipes off easily, sometimes too easily, but I have a backup paper at home.
Bare