[Ove]

Hi,

In the last week, my engine management warning light on the RH guage, has failed to go out intermittently after engine start up.  The first time, I thought I may not have given the fuel pump priming long enough. I turned it off and on again and it was fine. The following day, I rode it again and it was fine. Yesterday, the warning light stayed on again. This time it ran rough on its centrestand, tickover slowed and then died. I gave it another go, the light stayed on. 3rd attempt it was fine. Rode it for a few careful miles and it ran as per usual, without the warning light. Tonight, in my garage, it happened again and stalled. I tried it a couple more times, it started and ran ok, but the light stayed on.

I'm wondering if anything I've done could have caused this:
1. After a careful running in, the bike is now on 2100 miles. An aftermarket exhaust added 600 miles ago (hitchcocks gold star style). No tuner, stock air filter. It has run fine since, until now. I checked the (stock) spark plug tonight, it looks fine. The gap was 0.8, so I set it to 0.75, but the light remains on.
2. I had just adjusted my handle bars, rotating them toward me and adjusted the position of the brake lever. I've checked the clutch switch connectors on the bars. It was a bit loose, so I pushed it in, but no improvement. The cables and wires going to the binnacle aren't under tension. Nothing looks pinched.
3. A week or so ago, I went round the engine mounting bolts and the O2 sensor to check for tightness. All were fine, apart from the front bottom frame mounts, which felt a bit off fully tight and I tightened them up.
4. At the same time, I checked my air filter for any oil from the crank breather. There was a small residue, which I wiped off and put back together. The oil level reading in the sightglass is all over the place. When I did the oil change I filled it to mid way between the markers by the sight glass, ran it for a few minutes and it returned to the same level.. Since then, it is usually between the markers, but sometimes reads empty (when it has been on the sidestand), sometimes overfull. But it isn't blowing anything significant into the air box. About 500 miles since last oil change and less than half a thimbleful in the air box. I had last checked the air box about 1,000 miles ago.
5. The only other things I've done: I have a hitchcocks headlamp peak, which I put on about 1800 miles ago and their small screen. Oh, and I've cleaned / lubed the chain! The dealer did the first service.

Before I ring the dealer and call on the warranty, does anything I've done prompt any thoughts or suggestions?

Many thanks,

Martin

[gizzo]

You could check what code the engine light is indicating, see what it says? (correct me here if I'm wrong, is been a while...) Connect the purple wire from the ecu to ground, turn key on, count the engine light flashes. Somewhere on this forum there's a list of codes and what they indicate. You'll have to go looking for it.

[heloego]

Here:
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php?topic=26740.msg306055#msg306055

[Ove]

Thank you both.

[McBob]

Hi Martin,

that's a bit weird. AFAIK, and according to personal experience, if the MIL light goes on but the
engine runs, it is usually a dirty or faulty sensor, or even a false positive of sorts (once, the
light went on just because I tried too many times to kick start the bike). The stalling then
running is the weird part. After the light goes on, either the engine runs, or it doesn't, I believe.
Anyway, gizzo is suggesting the right procedure to identify the problem. Also, since
you have the Haynes manual, the same procedure is duly explained with a clear table to
decode the flashing lights. Afterwards, you should at least know where the problem is. If it's a sensor,
the manual will tell you which one, where to look, and how to check/clean it. Look on the index
under "MIL" (I think; I don't have it at hand). If it's not enough, even after decoding the blinks / checking
/ cleaning, I'd go to the dealer.

Good luck,
Rob

[axman88]

I had the MIL light come on, and the engine ran rough, then died, because of a loose negative battery connection.

[Ove]

Thanks. Tried it. I also took the negative off the terminal to restart the ECU. Still lighting up. I've checked all the plugs I can get to and they look fine. I'm happy looking into mechanical things, to a limit, but not ECUs and sensors. I think I will be calling on my dealer.

There are 3 or 4 things it could be, the Haynes manual tallies up with one of the earlier posts. None seem to relate to anything I've done, so I'll take it in with a clear conscience! I was thinking of changing the air filter anyway, it's looking past it's best and there was a lot of dried road dirt on the plastic intake. So, I can get one while I'm there.

Thanks for the replies.

[axman88]

Pulling the codes might give a clue as to why the ECU is failing self test.

[Ove]

I decided not to run the code check when I read about taking the tank off to do it, in the Haynes manual. I assumed it would be one of the 5 in the top half of the list linked above (engine still runs) and checked the plugs to sensors that I could find easily and visually checked wiring. Nothing obvious. So I'm thinking I ought to register the problem under the warranty and get the dealer to check it through, before the warranty runs out in a month or so (end Sept, I think).

My only concern is I may have caused the problem by putting the Hitchcocks silencer on without a tuner, even though they say I don't need one. The only other times I've ever changed exhausts on are Harleys. I've always added a tuner at the same time. Lesson learned if that could be the cause. The dealer's only 20 miles away and so far they've been delightful.

Interestingly, they asked me to put off coming in for a week or so,  because they are so busy and mechanic no.3 joins them next week. Glad they're busy in these difficult times.

[Haggis]

The wire that you earth to check the codes is in the electrics box along with the ecu. No need to be taking the tank off. You really need to check the codes to find out which sensor is throwing up an error.

[heloego]

   This Forum Section is for the Bullet with the UCE engine, so can I safely assume you have either a B5, C5, E5, or G5?

   The Haynes Manual for the RE 500 Bullet/Classic and 535 Continental GT is pretty clear.
   Page 3-10, Fig. 9.3a shows the Left-Hand Electrical box (same as my 2012). Page 3-11, Fig 9.3b shows the correct 2-pin connector that uses the purple wire to ground to the frame.

   Page 3-11, Fig. 9.3c shows the location of the connector for the Conti.

   Page 3-10 Par. 3 may be confusing, but reads as follows:
   "Using the Engine Management System Warning Light.
   The fault code can be displayed as a pattern of flashes displayed by the MIL.To read a fault code, on the B5 and C5, first open the electrical box (see illustration), on the E5 and G5 remove the seat (see chapter 6), and on the Continental GT remove the fuel tank (see section 5)."

   The paragraph goes further to explain exactly which connector you're looking for, depending whether you do or don't have a laptop and OEM diagnostic software. See the Haynes illustrations above in the Manual for further clarification.



   

[Ove]

I misread it. I will have a look tomorrow. Thanks.

[Ove]

So, I pushed a bare wire into the MIL and got a good contact. With the ignition on, i contacted the other end against the engins case and various frame bolts / sections. It did not light up.

Either no stored codes, or I failed to get a connection. I'll dig out some fresh cable and try it again. I've left the MIL at the front of the compartment so I don't need to fish it out again.

I also topped up with fresh fuel in case stale fuel was the cause of the EMW light. No change, 6 mile round trip and the bike felt sluggish and plenty of popping on decel.

[Ove]

OK, I've been a complete muppet. I was expecting a diode on that connector in the electrics box. I re-read (again!) And it is the warning light on the dashboard that lights up. I know, obvious, but I am a dunce with electronics and it seems, reading instructions.

So, got my pad ready to record all the codes, turned on the ignition. After a pregnant pause, one long light and two short. Pause and then the same repeats. It carries on repeating. According to the Haynes manual, that means fault code 12. There is no fault code 12 listed! GROAN. Anyone tell what I'm doing wrong?

[Haggis]

Probably be, Table 2, P0120.?
That would give you one long flash and two short..?
Throttle position sensor.
Engine will run.