Author Topic: What to do if oil level is above max?  (Read 3868 times)

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USBullet500

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on: July 19, 2020, 07:00:15 pm
Hi,

I changed the oil in my bullet for the first time. I made sure while filling that the oil level is at or little below max. However when i took it for a ride and came back and tested oil level with 2 min engine running and 3 min idle time, the oil level is full above max and it completely covers the screen. I tried few times and the result is the same on center stand.

I also see a drop of oil hanging on the 19mm nut. When i changed the oil, I made sure to clean it properly and it also has the copper washer in it. Is it due to the overfill that i am finding this drop of oil on this nut?

Is it harmful to the engine if i continue to ride like this? Is there a way i can remove oil from the top without removing the drain nut?


Richard230

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Reply #1 on: July 19, 2020, 10:31:43 pm
The drop of oil on the drain plug is nothing to be concerned about.  They all do that.  ;) It has nothing to do with overfilling the sump.

Regarding not seeing the top of the oil in the window: Have someone tilt the bike a bit while looking at the oil level in the window. If the top of the oil appears with the bike leaning about 10 degrees, I wouldn't worry about it.  The oil level in the UCE engine can rise and fall at a whim and a little overfilled won't cause a problem. They all do that.   ::) 

If you still don't see the top of the oil with the bike leaning slightly, you should be able to suck out some oil by sticking a hose down the filler and suck some out with a turkey baster connected to the hose.
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Ove

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Reply #2 on: July 19, 2020, 11:06:22 pm
Brand new, the oil level never settled in the same place twice and my dealer did the 1st service, same results. Usually showing overfull.

I've done my oil a couple of times since and had exactly the same result as you. Both times straight after the oil change, I ran the bike a couple of minutes on the centrestand and it settled back to the same OK level. The second oil change I left a bigger margin below full. No difference. Still above max the day after a ride. But on one occasion recently, when I get off holding the bike upright and put it straight onto the centrestand, it showed just over halfway up the window. Next ride I checked, it was over again. It goes down to nothing in the window if I put it on the side stand.

There must be oilways and cavities that trap the oil sometimes and not others and result in false readings.

I'm working on the basis that when doing an oil change, I won't add more than the amount recommended, but stop before that, once I get to 1/2 way between the levels on the oil window. Then I'll not worry about it if after running it, it shows overfull. I still check the level though, to make sure it doesn't drop below where I filled to.

Happy to be put right if I'm doing something wrong.
« Last Edit: July 19, 2020, 11:08:47 pm by Ove »


tooseevee

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Reply #3 on: July 20, 2020, 02:22:01 pm
Brand new, the oil level never settled in the same place twice and my dealer did the 1st service, same results. Usually showing overfull.

I've done my oil a couple of times since and had exactly the same result as you. Both times straight after the oil change, I ran the bike a couple of minutes on the centrestand and it settled back to the same OK level. The second oil change I left a bigger margin below full. No difference. Still above max the day after a ride. But on one occasion recently, when I get off holding the bike upright and put it straight onto the centrestand, it showed just over halfway up the window. Next ride I checked, it was over again. It goes down to nothing in the window if I put it on the side stand.

There must be oilways and cavities that trap the oil sometimes and not others and result in false readings.

I'm working on the basis that when doing an oil change, I won't add more than the amount recommended, but stop before that, once I get to 1/2 way between the levels on the oil window. Then I'll not worry about it if after running it, it shows overfull. I still check the level though, to make sure it doesn't drop below where I filled to.

Happy to be put right if I'm doing something wrong.

            If it's any help to easing your mind about oil level, my '08 AVL was and still is the same (all of them were) from day one and IT has a real dipstick. The AVLs are so weird that I can check my oil after the engine has not run for a good while and show NO oil on the dipstick. Run it a few minutes, wait a few minutes, and there it is; a little more than 1/2 way up the hash marks on the dipstick. If I were to top this up then, the engine would blow it all out the crankcase vent on my next ride.

             You get used to it over time and how to hold the right look on your face when checking the oil :) ;)

             And like Adrian sez - the tiny drip has nothing to do with oil level, it has to do with the crush washer. If you want, use a new one every time OR smooth both sides on emery paper before reinstalling OR soften it up by heating it up and THEN smooth out bothe sides on emery paper.

             And be VERY careful tightening that drain plug. You will learn the "feel" over time.
« Last Edit: July 20, 2020, 02:25:44 pm by tooseevee »
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GlennF

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Reply #4 on: July 21, 2020, 04:18:29 am
it is worth noting that all those random cavities also stop the oil from draining properly when changing the oil. 

I usually get an extra half litre or so of old oil out by tilting the bike about 30 degrees off vertical to one side waiting a minute or so then doing the same tilting it the other way.

it probably makes minimal real difference but I personally prefer to get as much of the old oil out as I possibly can.


Ove

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Reply #5 on: July 21, 2020, 08:27:25 am
The first change I did was post run in and I wanted to get as much of the old oil out as possible. I tried that and it didn't do much on mine. So I turned the engine over a very briefly on the starter, with the plug lead off. Amazed how much came out.


Rattlebattle

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Reply #6 on: July 21, 2020, 09:59:25 am
There’s a difference of 0.4 litre between the specified amount to put in on a rebuilt engine and for an oil and filter change. Having split the cases on mine to rebuild it it is obvious that you can’t get all the oil out. For example, the gearbox shafts and gears sit above the oil level and are lubricated by splash and from an oil flinger, the oil from which would be difficult to extract without the gearbox shafts rotating. For an oil and filter change I just add the specified amount and forget it until the next time.
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Richard230

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Reply #7 on: July 21, 2020, 02:44:49 pm
it is worth noting that all those random cavities also stop the oil from draining properly when changing the oil. 

I usually get an extra half litre or so of old oil out by tilting the bike about 30 degrees off vertical to one side waiting a minute or so then doing the same tilting it the other way.

it probably makes minimal real difference but I personally prefer to get as much of the old oil out as I possibly can.

That works well for me on my 2011 Bullet without the extra oil drain hole in front like the newer engine have. By tilting the bike back and forth, I can get another 1/2 liter out of the engine.   :)
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Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: July 23, 2020, 05:43:26 pm
IMO, if the oil level is slightly above the top of the sight guage, on a UCE, it's nothing to worry about.

Remembering that the area that the oil is held in is actually more of a oil tank rather than being an oil sump like most engines have, the Royal Enfields tank can be slightly overfilled without causing any problems.
Now, if the tank is really overfilled, it can cause the crankcase vent to blow some of the oil out which isn't a good thing but I think this sort of thing only happens when the oil level is really overfilled way above the level of the sight guage.

It might be a good idea to see if any oil is being blown into the air filter box from the carnkcase vent hose but if there is no sign of oil then everything is good to go. :)

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Rattlebattle

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Reply #9 on: July 24, 2020, 10:40:34 pm
Mine blew a bit of oil out when the piston rings wore. No biggie. The engine is still wet sump. It's not like the iron barrel bikes which have the oil tank in the crankcase. If it were dry sump like that it would have a return feed (scavenge) on the oil pump to return oil back to the tank, wherever it is located. The engine is actually a pretty odd design, unlike any other I can think of and not one any manufacturer would rush to copy.
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heloego

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Reply #10 on: July 25, 2020, 05:21:08 pm
Kinda like the French helicopters. The mechanic who first introduced me to them commented that I would see many innovations compared to other helos, but I should also note that no one ever copied them.  ;)
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Rattlebattle

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Reply #11 on: July 26, 2020, 08:35:37 am
Well put :)
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