Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => 535 Continental GT => Topic started by: Devante on May 21, 2018, 08:20:25 pm
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First of all, hello! Just a little about myself...
I got my first bike in February - a new 2016 Continental GT.
I also notice this is a DFW shop. I'm from Dallas myself (moved to California about 9 years ago).
So I'm almost at 600 miles and I want to change my oil.
After some research, I got this oil: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EB9XZC
Well I received it and here's the back of the bottle: https://i.imgur.com/L8EhyGY.jpg
It's JASO MA but not API SL.
Is this safe to use or should I return it and keep looking for API SL - JASO MA oil?
Thanks!
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I use Castrol actevo 15w 20 oil design for air cooled engines. I forget what all the letter codes on the back of the bottle stand for. I think they have to do with some of the codes have zinc added and other codes don't have a zinc added. Zinc is a great additive to add to your oil. Helps the lubricating process.
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JASO MA is typically the specification that all motorcycles with oil-bath clutches, like your RE, should be using. The JASO MA2 and car motor oil rated API SL is for vehicles that have catalytic converters and they have fewer anti-wear additives to keep the converters happy. Your RE catalytic converter might not last quite as long with the MA rated oil, but it will likely fall off long before it is ever affected by the additives in the oil that you bought. Go ahead and use it as long as it is the recommended 15W-50 weight.
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Devante:
The Motul oil you got is just about exactly the right oil for your motorcycle.
It's SJ API rating won't cause any harm.
Although I didn't look up the differences between the SJ and the SL ratings, I do know that a higher letter doesn't always mean the oil is better.
In fact, as KD5ITM mentions some of the "newer" higher letter oils have a much lower zinc content which for engines like the Royal Enfield which uses its engine oil to lubricate the transmission gears is not a good thing.
The JASO tests are all aimed at the compatibility of the oil with motorcycle wet plate clutches. If the oil has any of the JASO ratings, it will work fine in a Royal Enfield.
A word of caution: Don't trust the amount of oil that is specified in your Owners Manual that needs to be added to your engine.
If it's possible, measure the amount of oil you have drained out of the bike and replace it with the same amount of new oil.
I know the Owners Manual for my 2011 G5 says it needs 2.75 Liter's (2.9 US quarts) but actually it only needs about 2 quarts. 2.9 US quarts would be way too much oil.
As I understand it, that 2.75 liters of oil they mention is the amount of oil a bone dry, newly built engine would need. There are a bunch of nooks and crannies inside the engine that don't drain so when refilling after an oil change, it takes a lot less than the book says it does.
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Anyone running 20W-50? I sometimes have trouble finding 15W-50
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Sure, if it's what is hanging around when I need it. Doesn't make any difference.
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Anyone running 20W-50? I sometimes have trouble finding 15W-50
20W-50 should be fine, especially if you are not running your Enfield in Alaska during the winter. ;)
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For what it's worth : Baker/REFTW as historically used and sold 20w50.
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Shell Advance full synthetic 15w50.
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Penrite 15/50 synthetic diesel oil 8)
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I have been using this oil for 16,000 miles without a bit of trouble. I have never had any confidence in a multiple viscosity blend. I do change the oil every 2500 miles along with a new filter which I soak in the new oil before I install. I also use four ounces of Marvel Mystery with every change. Clutch and gears have always worked perfectly. Just my aged opinion but has worked for me thus far.
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Obviously there never will be agreement on the correct oil.
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Obviously there never will be agreement on the correct oil.
Actually I agree with the last two choices. I have used Shell diesel oil. It’s JASO rated. The Castrol is similar to the oil we used to set up Triumph T140s. I get a discount on the Shell!
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I mechanic friend of mine put in Motul 5W-40 full synthetic in mine because I was in a punch. He said it'll be fine. Think he's right?
-A
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Yes, it will not hurt your bike, my bike did not die running 20W40 synthetic blend for 3000 miles instead of the 15W50 full synthetic that it normally has last year, better than no oil.
Grant
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That is the oil that I use in my water-cooled BMW R1200RS. It is pretty thin stuff. Might be OK for winter riding, but if it was me, I would change it out for the specified 15W-50 oil if you are riding in temperatures over 60 degrees. You can just drain the oil out of the main drain plugs and pour in the new oil. No need to remove the oil filter or the oil screen assembly, so it will be a quick and easy job. If you can't find 15W-50, 20W-50 should be OK, especially after it mixes with the leftover 5W-40 oil that remains in the sump.
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Motul 300V full race synthetic 15-50.