Those drop bars are off and laying on the floor. Free to anyone who wants them. They were horrible!
That isn't what I had in mind but...looks kinda nifty! :) Can you quote me here or in a PM?All Bullets have a hose connecting the carb mouth to the airbox.
Seems all of the filters I like are thread on to Amal carbs.
My carb bolts directly to the head but yours has a piece of hose connecting it?
The carb on mine bolts directly to the head. Not the correct carb?
(https://scontent.fagc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/58463169_10157213206631055_9177211832891342848_n.jpg?_nc_cat=106&_nc_eui2=AeH7nNmxZWCrg-A-V7e3Kx-8Lhlyrbw-o8jQmtQvCkfYBOADJ0MzqpAX4IdEDCXPHSheF0DbSX_MAb9DAYbT3lCZ0paZYJnUSG9CbfTp7QqGtw&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-1.fna&oh=f1e171ccebafef7496b8ab653357b647&oe=5D72FD1A)
The inlet measures 50mm if that helps.
No brand name on it but "30m" is stamped in it and "PWK" is cast in the housing on the other side.
My airbox connector hose probably wouldn't stretch from 45mm to 50mm,.and the 57mm hose would be too big.
Being aluminum I'm wondering if ...
Replaced the primary chain last night. There is NO WAY the chain in there was for that bike. New one adjusts out perfectly.Sounds like the previous owner was a guy who believes in the old saying, "If it isn't broken, fix it until it is." ;D ;D
If it weren't for fixing all the PO 'repairs' this thing would probably be running by now.
Where do the turn signal relay and the starter solenoid attach? Both seem to have a rubber holder with a slot in it like they would slide over a metal tab on something.
Edit: I found this photo from an older post showing a battery mounted in the left tool box. I'm becoming more okay with this idea if I can figure out a way to secure the battery in there.
Getting back to that starter sprag clutch, whatever lube you're using in the primary (on advice from these Forums I use Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid, though the manual calls for 10W40), you might do well to add another 400 or so ml, or about a cup and a half, above that 420 ml level of the fluid level screw to better bathe that sprag gear. It seems there was some factory service advisory that went out some years back to that effect. It didn't save mine, which went tits up at about 9,000 miles, though very rarely used, but might help forestall the inevitable crunch with yours... especially if you NEVER use it.Actually, you could use Dexron/Mercon ATF or similar if the main reason is to lube the spray clutch. The sprag is a part repurposed from a GM automatic transmission torque converter.
Yeah, so about the final drive oil...I've heard "Type F" but Snidal seems to think in a five speed model it should be 20W or 20W-50 if straight isn't available.Use standard low sulfur or no sulfur(preferable) gear oil in the gearbox. 85/90w is fine.
Yeah, so about the final drive oil...I've heard "Type F" but Snidal seems to think in a five speed model it should be 20W or 20W-50 if straight isn't available.
The seat tongue just slides under the front frame bracket .Any concern with the harness running through there?
For the rear exhaust bracket, I just got a piece of aluminum flat stock and cut and drilled it.I've not been able to envision a solution. The Emgo has a stud pretty far towards the exit. It is decidedly out past the rear shock mount. To get an attachment to the frame would be a long, multi-bend Rube Goldberg affair. :o It's a $58 muffler so I've just clamped it on for now. If it falls off, well...
I've not been able to envision a solution. The Emgo has a stud pretty far towards the exit. It is decidedly out past the rear shock mount. To get an attachment to the frame would be a long, multi-bend Rube Goldberg affair. :o It's a $58 muffler so I've just clamped it on for now. If it falls off, well...
I tried searching Google images as I'm sure someone somewhere has used one before but came up empty.
[...Snip!]
Thanks for the above comments. I tried to start making 'adjustments' tonight on some of the irritations. First the foot pegs. No matter how I try they won't get equal side to side. Something must be bent.
(https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/62395410_10157323336741055_7030363157151350784_n.jpg?_nc_cat=107&_nc_oc=AQn6xNF51SVirU7OET-ByCOf9g_OMVXPorKAbfNNcb7nCa8xayN1M9g7HKyjnskBZqU&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-2.fna&oh=5627036fc7ba0cd24dc93fff09f4a425&oe=5D97011E)
(https://scontent.fagc1-2.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/62399748_10157323336816055_4244671137314766848_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_oc=AQnUytoUcvJxDQgFgyE4_inICG5y1frX2SMBs5e7WG9Bu-kaYEEL7lJtWsYpf1G4vvg&_nc_ht=scontent.fagc1-2.fna&oh=99509fdc7c4f1aae0e3f7201b09e174f&oe=5D8F1517)
It's possible I installed these opposite of what they were originally as there is no way to explain the right side being bent forward. Not a crisis, just annoying.
[Snip!...]
Try THESE:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-Royal-Enfield-Bullet-DRIVER-FOOTPEG-BRACKET-LEFT-RIGHT-/312323839019?vxp=mtr&hash=item48b7f3942b
A.
Snidal book says 8 ft lbs. "Buy the Snidal book" everyone said. "That is all you need" they said.The cover studs have a little more meat around them, and you can try a helicoil or Timesert.
Too late now. So I'm basically f*cked? No way to get that stud back in?
(https://i.imgur.com/MtTHil5.jpg)The speedo accuracy varies, but it is common for them to read about 10mph high.
Are the speedometers on these not known for accuracy? Mine seems rather optimistic. I find it hard to believe I'm going 60 mph on the roads around here.
(https://i.imgur.com/MtTHil5.jpg)
Are the speedometers on these not known for accuracy? Mine seems rather optimistic. I find it hard to believe I'm going 60 mph on the roads around here.
Enfield speedos are indeed notoriously inaccurate, which explains why speeds reported in this Forum so often include the qualifier "indicated".
[...Snip!]
I got the plate for it today (I've been illegally motoring about with my Triumph Tiger's tag). So vast is my confidence in this machine I coughed up two years of licensing instead of one. This will no doubt cause it to burst into a ball of flame and spew it's innards across the pavement shortly. ;)
I've ordered a 'proper' muffler and some other bits from Hitchcock's. I am quite the fan of their 'clearance' pages. As this bike is not perfect it is a good candidate for 'substandard' parts. The seat was a 'second' because it had an odd mark in the leather grain. I have to stare at the seat to even see it. The muffler is an English made one with some sort of cosmetic defect. Forty quid less...sounds perfect!If the clutch doesn't drag, then the plates and adjustments are probably okay. You can get 3 heavy duty clutch springs to help it hold. 6 could be used, but that makes it hard to pull the clutch, and 3 at every other spring usually works.
I've been riding it around learning it's quirks. Starting has become pretty easy, often with one kick. I've learned to crank the throttle more to get actual momentum. The engine has such good torque characteristics I've not been winding it out plus it gets so buzzy but it seems quite eager to be wound out.
The clutch will slip when cold and sometimes even hot if I really get on the juice. Someone suggested I sandblast the metal discs? Would fiddling with what sounds like a fussy adjustment perhaps help?
Weeps a bit of oil out of the nut for the valve tappet cover. I don't recall there being a washer or gasket there. Engine seems to stay dry otherwise.
There is a lopped off ? hose on the right side, top of crankcase inboard toward the distributor. I'm guessing this was part of a breather that went to my missing air cleaner box. It's not spewing anything, just leaves a bit of dampness to collect dirt. Leave it alone or ?
The engine has such good torque characteristics I've not been winding it out plus it gets so buzzy but it seems quite eager to be wound out.
Weeps a bit of oil out of the nut for the valve tappet cover. I don't recall there being a washer or gasket there. Engine seems to stay dry otherwise.
The muffler is an English made one with some sort of cosmetic defect. Forty quid less...sounds perfect!
The cable pulls up, but since the Bowden tube (around the cable) stays the same length, it effectively pushes down on the metal disc and spring. The valve is attached to the metal disc, so while the disc and spring are being pushed down, the valve is also pushed down thereby opening it.This is what I was thinking but when I had it together (like every photo I've found) when I pull the cable up nothing happens.
Now for the latest on the decompressor cable...
My Hitchcock's cable is pretty much identical t what is on the bike aside from construction quality. Length, fittings, etc all match up. I didn't swap it out as a result. Put it all back together and just spent a lot of time gazing, tugging and trying to figure out what isn't happening.
My deducing led me to 'the cable is too long' which of course makes no sense with another cable that is known good and a match. The bowden cable simply doesn't stay in place. Peering more closely at things I think something may be amiss:
I can see a bit of threaded area where a screw or bolt may go. Am I looking at something broken off the handlebar control?
I can't remember what the housing looks like because I removed mine so long ago.That's what I have been doing. And that is mostly okay but certainly not convenient. I'm the type of person who sees the decompressor lever and is just annoyed by it not working.
But, you can just take the cable off and use the decompressor in push-button manner to decompress, and the world will go on just fine without any more frustration.
That's what I have been doing. And that is mostly okay but certainly not convenient. I'm the type of person who sees the decompressor lever and is just annoyed by it not working.
Oddly enough I can find no mention of it whatsoever in the official Spare Parts Catalog, although there's also a matching one for the throttle cable.
Sorry if I mis-identified the cable, though Bilgemeaster's photo shows that you are missing something similar.
The E/S switchgear here is a copy of what was fitted to Suzukis of the the period or slightly earlier, only what serves as the decomp lever on your Bullet would, I believe, have been for the carb enrichener/cold start device on the Suzuki. This was an OK swap for the iron barrel Bullet with the old decompressor valve, but as tooseevee rightly points out, it was a terrible idea for the valve lifter on the AVL models.
A.
The Parts Catalog has no coverage of the decompressor type that he has that's in the head. It only covers the type such that I had in my 2008 (Pg. 16) which runs a cable down to the tappet cover where it's attached to a through shaft with an attached cam that rotates and jams against the exhaust valve pushrod and holds it in the open position.
Must be a later AVL Spare Parts Catalog you have. The Iron Barrel in-head decompressor assembly is shown in Group 02-50 'Cylinder Head' of my May 2003 one (Part 142145), pages 44 & 45 as items 22 through 31. The cable is shown elsewhere along with the others, but I see no sign of that cable end split ferrule doodad, nor the (identical?) one my '05 also has at the throttle.
After another closer look at my Spares Catalog I now see in 07-10 'Handle Bar and Controls', pages 122 & 123, an item 15 styled as "Bush (Throttle Cable Stop)", Part 143314. Still no clear sign of one for the decompressor cable, but there is an item 22 in the listings styled simply as "Ferrule", Part 560116 that is shown nowhere in the diagram. It is indicated as being suitable for 500cc 5 Speeds with Electric Start.
On my bike, the two parts seem more or less identical, so maybe those part numbers will help our man find something more reasonably priced than the options shown here thus far ($28 shipping? Really?) that'll get him rolling again without scorched fingers.
Just a quick googling reveals that a "Ferrule throttle stop Minda control" Part 143314 (http://www.pricepartmotorcycles.co.uk/ourshop/cat_314572-Switches.html) can be had for the princely sum of exactly one pound from PricePart Motorcycles in England with 4.50 First Class shipping to the US of A. Still, that's better than $28. A bit more rummaging around "out there" might beat even that though.
tooseevee you've got mail!
You don't have a PM from me?
You don't have a PM from me?
You don't have a PM from me?
I got the cable furrel or whatever it's called. Though it fits fine it isn't long enough to take up the slack. I'd need two of them. Local hardware store didn't have anything, suggested I try a bicycle shop. I'm giving up on using the cable for now; I'll just continue my pushing it manually with my fingers method.
Maybe you just got the wrong type cable on there? Something for another model or some previous owner's unsuccessful make-do attempt at a fix? I believe we've long since established that not everything done to this bike in the past has been "according to Hoyle".
It is possible that the JRC carb might have a fit issue with that OEM cable which is for a Mikarb/Mikuni.
Yes. Had to get a different cable to work on the TM32 on mine.Oh, sorry.
But I'm totally confused now. Are we talking about his decompressor cable now or his throttle cable?
The torque method for the steering head bearings on the UCE after taking it apart and greasing the bearings without removing them is:
First torque the big nut to 18 to 20 NM (13-15 lb/ft). Then back off nut and re-torque to 2 to 4 NM (1.4 - 2.9 lb/ft or 17 - 35 pound/inches).
I am pretty sure the torque and method for the Iron barrel is the same.
At these low torque figures I would expect the fork to flop back and forth easily when everything is done right.
Service manual for my '06 ElectraX (paraphrased) in Section 3 Page 3-26 says to:
1. Loosen the fork pinch bolts,
2. Loosen the Set screw under the stem nut,
3. Tighten the Stem Nut,
4. Assembly the reverse of the same.
I noted my manual does not give a torque value for the Stem Nut.