Well...the oil-free start up period as the oil filter cavity slowly fills creeps me out, for one. A pre-filled Fram spin-on would have only the supply line tubing volume to fill before oil was again flowing to the big-end bushing. The idea that even the lowly Fram is probably a much better filter than the fuzzy gauze Enfield unit is another.
I've pre-oil soaked the OEM filter then speedily popped it into the housing, then manually kicked over the engine with either the spark plug out or holding the compression release until I saw oil appear at the quill bolt.
The most positive way is to pull off the timing cover, fill the oil filter cavity, reassemble the filter kluge, pop the timing cover back on and again kick until pressurized oil shows up at the quill. But many say that R&Ring the timing cover very often isn't a good thing, so...?
Anyway, it was just a question to see if anyone had tried it; might save time "rediscovering the wheel" as it were if someone had and was willing to share the experience. I don't care if I spend $2.322 or $10 per filter, my main concern is not to frag my hobby toy by avoidable accident. My Bullets live on 15W50 Mobile-1 with a generous dollop of Lucas TB-Zinc+, not money saving reprocessed $0.89/Qt./40W "Raylube" (available at Whiting Brothers!) & then fine-tuning final viscosity with motor honey.
Unless I find a better way, the filter pre-saturation/kick-till-you-see-flow-at-the-quill will probably be the norm. Although, if a guy created a vent port on top of the oil filter housing.....?
- ACR -