Author Topic: Random Engine and body noises on Interceptor 650  (Read 11167 times)

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2wheelsmovethesoul

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on: March 05, 2021, 11:20:25 am
Greetings from the North-east region of India.

I'm new to the forum as a member, but I've lurked around all you knowledgeable folks, and have learnt a great deal. Including...."search the forum before you post a query". Relax, I only jest, as that is sound advice.

Now, to come to my issues, with the motorcycle, that is. I would like to apologise to everyone for this wall of text (yes, we have the Colonial legacy of the Queen's English here). RE here isn't being helpful, and seem to send me around in circles.

Engine:
Weird ticking noise from the left side of the engine (sometimes from the right as well). The noise seems to be loudest around the rocker/head covers, and is not present all the time. It comes up loud enough to hear while riding at 3000rpms, doesn't change rhythm with throttle, happens randomly on a cold or a warm engine. It's a distinct ticking noise, like that of the second hand of a clock.

RE service can't help me any further (they've said so much to me). Valves and clearances, nuts and bolts have been torqued down and cam chain tensions have been checked. RE says the noise would die down by the time I hit 6000Kms on the odo. I have ridden more than 6k now, and the noise is still here. RE also says they don't want to open up the engine unless necessary, and this noise is a non-point for them. I checked their test-ride sample, and that one, doesn't have the noise- they checked mine after this...and did some things they wouldn't tell me, sound reduced, wasn't gone completely, and now it's back.

Front end:  Braking induces a soft knocking sound. I've read elsewhere on this forum, that this is quite common, and that it could be due to forks not being topped off with fork-oil consistently. RE here said, that this noise comes because of the floating disc up front  :o ??? :-X 
Additionally, I also get a knocking noise accompanied with a slight rattle when I go over gravel-y roads or cobblestoned paths, or similarly rough surfaces.

Rear end: A strange noise that feels like something is loose and rattling. I can even feel it in my footpegs. It only happens when I go over gravel-y roads, cobblestones, dirt-pack roads and such. Point is, noise only happens when going over minor bumps and rattling broken roads. Never when going over big bumps where the suspension travels significantly. I also put in a piece of foam under the seat to narrow down the source of the sound, as the seat can rattle. However, after numerous attempts, and fixes, the noise is still, there, and riding feels like parts are going to fall off.

Dear lord of all that is beautiful.....how many times have I raised this issue with RE...only to be met with "I can't gear any abnormal noise", or my favs of- "yeah there's a noise, but it's there on every one of these bikes"; and "yeah this is because of the shocks. You see, new ones don't have the noise, but it comes after a few days of riding", "You need more weight on the suspension for it to work properly, so adjust preload, and it'll go away"

These suggestions don't make much sense to me.

Please HELP!


viczena

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Reply #1 on: March 05, 2021, 11:38:22 am
The ticking sound in the engine is most probably a defect hydraulic tappet. It does not pump up. Tighten the engine mounting screws.
On the front end I would adjust the bearing.
On the rear I would look for something loose. Tighten all screws you can see.
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rowdyyates

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Reply #2 on: March 05, 2021, 11:42:50 am
I have the noise from the back. I think it may me the chain as it only happens when 'off throttle.

I also have the noise from the front and have absolutely no idea what it is. Nothing has fallen off after 2000 miles so I think maybe its the brake pads or front disc. When rocking the bike backwards and forwards with the front brake engaged, there is a knock. Without the brake engaged there is no noise. When I push the front end against a wall there is no noise so I assume this proves the headset is ok?

Mark.
1988 RGV 250
2020 RE GT CONT 650


viczena

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Reply #3 on: March 05, 2021, 11:48:49 am
You have to solve the problem step by step. Be shure that the headset is ok, then look if the brake calipers and the disc are tight.
Sometimes the flat spring in the brake caliper is missing, it jumped out while you installed new brake pads. Or it was bended while installing them.

Find sombody who inspects the front part while you brake and move the bike. Maybe he sees something moving.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2021, 11:52:47 am by viczena »
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zimmemr

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Reply #4 on: March 05, 2021, 12:43:21 pm
Without hearing the engine noise it's just about impossible to diagnose, it could be anything from a loose valve to an improperly secured fuel filter to a bad cam chain tensioner. The first thing I'd do would be to remove the tank, check everything underneath it to see if something has come loose and then check the valve clearances. The twins use manual, screw type adjusters and the adjustment procedure is well documented on line and in the manual. While you're under the cover take a good look at all the fasteners and the cam chain.

Once the brakes are applied and there is a load on them you shouldn't hear any noise. If you only hear the front end noise when the brake is applied and you rock the bike back and forth yes, that's normal, it's caused by float in the disc, and some float in the calipers. You can verify this by trying to rotate the caliper against it's mounts, in the direction of wheel rotation. Every RE twin I've seen has some play there so don't be surprised when the caliper moves a few thousandths.

Other things that can cause a front end rattle are loose steering head bearings, low fork oil, loose bolts, I've even seen two bikes that had unsecured connectors in the headlight that would rattle loud enough to get you attention, especially at low speed.

At the rear check all the nuts and bolts to make sure nothing's loose, check the chain tension and alignment and make sure it's well lubricated.
I'd also recommend setting the rear shocks to the softest position, in my opinion the RE wins are a little over sprung so it may be that the suspension is topping out over the rough stuff.


zimmemr

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Reply #5 on: March 05, 2021, 12:47:56 pm
I have the noise from the back. I think it may me the chain as it only happens when 'off throttle.

I also have the noise from the front and have absolutely no idea what it is. Nothing has fallen off after 2000 miles so I think maybe its the brake pads or front disc. When rocking the bike backwards and forwards with the front brake engaged, there is a knock. Without the brake engaged there is no noise. When I push the front end against a wall there is no noise so I assume this proves the headset is ok?

Mark.

Mark: see my reply to the original poster regarding front brake knock, each bike is different but every RE twin I've checked has made a little knocking noise when you rock the bike back and forth with the front brake locked, it's combination of the floating disc and play in the caliper.


rowdyyates

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Reply #6 on: March 05, 2021, 01:12:13 pm
Understood about the front brake. Funny you mentioned the headlamp as that sounds though the noise is coming from there. I am off in the garage now to take a look. Lol.
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BC AVIATION

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Reply #7 on: March 05, 2021, 01:29:07 pm
Hydraulic tappet???  On the RE?  that's news to me!

Please show me drawing or part numbers for this part!

Cookie

The ticking sound in the engine is most probably a defect hydraulic tappet. It does not pump up. Tighten the engine mounting screws.
On the front end I would adjust the bearing.
On the rear I would look for something loose. Tighten all screws you can see.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2021, 02:16:49 pm by BC AVIATION »


2wheelsmovethesoul

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Reply #8 on: March 05, 2021, 01:36:10 pm
Without hearing the engine noise it's just about impossible to diagnose, it could be anything from a loose valve to an improperly secured fuel filter to a bad cam chain tensioner. The first thing I'd do would be to remove the tank, check everything underneath it to see if something has come loose and then check the valve clearances. The twins use manual, screw type adjusters and the adjustment procedure is well documented on line and in the manual. While you're under the cover take a good look at all the fasteners and the cam chain.

Once the brakes are applied and there is a load on them you shouldn't hear any noise. If you only hear the front end noise when the brake is applied and you rock the bike back and forth yes, that's normal, it's caused by float in the disc, and some float in the calipers. You can verify this by trying to rotate the caliper against it's mounts, in the direction of wheel rotation. Every RE twin I've seen has some play there so don't be surprised when the caliper moves a few thousandths.

Other things that can cause a front end rattle are loose steering head bearings, low fork oil, loose bolts, I've even seen two bikes that had unsecured connectors in the headlight that would rattle loud enough to get you attention, especially at low speed.

At the rear check all the nuts and bolts to make sure nothing's loose, check the chain tension and alignment and make sure it's well lubricated.
I'd also recommend setting the rear shocks to the softest position, in my opinion the RE wins are a little over sprung so it may be that the suspension is topping out over the rough stuff.

Hey, thanks Zimmemr!

A few things you say about the front end, are also what I've been told by RE. But never for once the steering head bearings and low fork-oil factors. I've checked the headlight bucket after reading about it earlier on this forum, and nothings loose there.

I did test the 'float' of the brakes....and they are as you say they are.

On the rear end, there were quite a few....actually, every single nut and fastener was loose there, just a tiny bit. I went ahead and torqued all of them in a couple of months ago, and all are still holding on tight. My rear shocks used to be at the softest. When I increased preload to the 3rd setting, the noise reduced, but didn't die out. So I'm basically in the dark here.

Here's the audio of the engine noise https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpmIEV5OH74 I do have a couple of videos up there, please feel free to look it up.


Karl Fenn

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Reply #9 on: March 05, 2021, 02:18:34 pm
These engines are not as quiet warmed up as when cold, the metal expands so they make more noise, alloy engine as well, of course the floating disc can make noise when the take up any free play they do on the older BMW, when you ride over different road surfaces they make different noises something to consider, as with bumbs could be suspension comming off spring compression or knocking from the bushes check they are tight, throttling down the chain can make a bit of noise can't do much about that, engines do make different noises including BMW but these can change with time, if you remain concerned take it back to RE and demand another full check under warrantee.


Mav

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Reply #10 on: March 05, 2021, 02:20:21 pm
The ticking sound in the engine is most probably a defect hydraulic tappet. It does not pump up. Tighten the engine mounting screws.

If the 650 has hydraulic tappets, why are we all going to the trouble of checking their adjustment?  :o
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NVDucati

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Reply #11 on: March 05, 2021, 02:35:32 pm

Please HELP!
Sorry for your distress.
It seems that you have various noises coming from the front, middle and rear of your motorcycle.
   I don't have a silver-bullet answer for you. I doubt anyone does. You will have to put in the work to solve this.
You might consider turning to technology to isolate and identify the sources of the sounds.
Do a search for "... noise diagnosis tools ...". I have listed just a couple of examples below. They range from $18 to $1500 usd.
https://denlorstools.com/home/dt1/multilist_103/automotive_noise_detection_tools_and_sound_meter.html
https://www.steelmantools.com/bluetooth-chassisear-lite
   You should recruit a helper, ideally, someone who can be either a passenger or driver during two-up tests. A couple of cheap dashcam units can help. One to record the speedo & tachometer and the other to record a localized video based sound tract (selfie-stick). Basic video editing software will have a visual sound track window to display the the sound, second by second.
  Take notes of your process, you will be acting as a scientist. So try to adopt the scientific methodology as best you can. Be prepared to modify your process as you learn.
   Your bywords will become curiosity, commitment, safety and fun.   
Please keep us posted as you wrestle in the results. Who knows where this may lead you ...
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2wheelsmovethesoul

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Reply #12 on: March 05, 2021, 02:38:10 pm
I understand that It would be of immense help, if the good folk do have access to an audio clip of the said engine noise issue.

My brain sometimes refuses to comply with common sense arguments, so here they are:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpmIEV5OH74 (from the beginning of the clip, pronounced noise)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQ7ag2Pxgik (Electric spark-y noise/crackle on turning on ignition and fuel pump: listen at 0:14 and 0:44 for the noise)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5wsnFD86Ehg (listen at 0:04 and all the way through, specially at 0:16)


viczena

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Reply #13 on: March 05, 2021, 02:47:18 pm
Hydraulic tappet???  On the RE?  that's news to me!

Please show me drawing or part numbers for this part!

Cookie

Part  No. 5700907/B

If you have an OHC engine, check the clearance between Cam and Valve . Easy, isnt it?
« Last Edit: March 05, 2021, 02:53:16 pm by viczena »
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ceekay

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Reply #14 on: March 05, 2021, 02:52:14 pm
2wheels, I don't think we can solve your problems on the forum and your dealer isn't any help. You need to do some research to find a competent motorcycle mechanic in your area. Keep us posted and good luck.
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