[Arschloch]

No you can't, 36mm is max. probably the same as the EU4. But yours has some airflow sensor in it?

[Taurim]

No, the airflow sensor is in the rubber hose between the airbox and the TB.

I just made a 2mm error about the rebore

I saw your TB was rebored to 36mm and this is just what I (may) want to do 

[Arschloch]

No, the airflow sensor is in the rubber hose between the airbox and the TB.

I just made a 2mm error about the rebore

I saw your TB was rebored to 36mm and this is just what I (may) want to do 

I would like go to 39 or 40 if it was possible, however to take advantage of that it would be necessary to do some more dramatic charges to the engine, it's just not worth it as it's not a race bike anyway.

The 36mm can improve the 6000-6500rpm rev range without impacting the torque at lower revs to negatively. If i remember the measurement it was good for about 1-2 horses and a little better willingness to rev up there.

[Taurim]

Thanks for all the informations 
I will think about that and maybe try to find a spare TB to do that without immobilizing the 535.

[Arschloch]

Thanks for all the informations 
I will think about that and maybe try to find a spare TB to do that without immobilizing the 535.

It´s not a very big job, worthwhile trying imho.

[Adrian II]

38mm = 1½". That rings a bell!  The stud centers are pretty close.



A.

[gizzo]

Hi Ben. Congrats on the new bike. It's a lot of fun. Mine won't do the ton though... 150 is all it's got.

My one had the same wiring under the tank problem. The tank rubbed against the loom. Eventually it rubbed through and left me stranded temporarily. Just needed to rob a fuse from another spot in the fusebox and a bit of roadside cardboard to insulate. I made a couple of 1/2" spacers to lift the back of the tank to sort it. Makes a bit of clearance for the fuel hose, too. Speaking of which if it still has the OEM 2014 fuel hose, change it today. The original one is really rubbish quality rubber.

All the best mate.

[Arschloch]

38mm = 1½". That rings a bell!  The stud centers are pretty close.



A.

That looks beautiful, ship it to me..

[Adrian II]

That looks beautiful, ship it to me..

I have other plans... 



A.

[Taurim]

It´s not a very big job, worthwhile trying imho.

I will 

[StreetKleaver]

Aim for 170 kph 

You will replace the injection with a carb ? If not I would suggest you to replace the stock Keihin ECU by a fully programmable injection.

Not at this stage, I'll stick with the TB injection and PCV. This will be more of a daily rider, but I'll do the best out of it I can. To make it a very nice street ridden bike.
Atheistically I'll be changing it's look to give a "bigger nod" to the era it's designed and inspired from with all my hand made fabrication trickery like my Bullet has see. So watch this space.

Since mine will be close to a full engine freshen up given It's miles and track record of neglect.
Thinking about Tirangle Pete's 540 Piston and Conrod kit. I believe is Conrod is a smidge longer in stroke to take the huge squish gap these come with.  So hopefully no need to shave the barrel and shortening the push rods.

As for the guys discussing larger carburetors. There is a way to have your cake and eat it with larger bore carbs. A mod that has been around for the ages. Divider plates.
Adding a divider plate to the engine side of the Carburetor, which speeds up air single under half throttle. So it's like you have smaller bore carburetor and a larger one at once.
I did this mod on my 125 Motocross bikes when I went 2mm larger in Diameter. From 36mm to 38mm. Those little engines need all the help they could get in the lower end as they could. The larger bore helps feed the little beasts at 12,000rpm.

The advancements in torque (not that they had much) and transition to the midrange was a lot more linear.  Help throttle response by a bucket load.
Divider plate I put on a Mikuni TMX38 for a YZ144 (YZ125 big bore) its compression ratio was 14:1.

[TrianglePete]

Love this thread.

    I hope you riders know that the problem with performance comes from the fact that

the 535s come with a 350 cam..  You can put as big a carb or throttle body as you want

it still won't help until you install the proper 535 cam.   
TrianglePete
US Spec Parts

[Taurim]

Neither derottone nor I use the stock cams

StreetKleaver : H cams are not available anymore but I think ACE cams are.

[StreetKleaver]

Not much on until I renew the registration.

So today out of boredom I wrapped the header. Made the decision I'll be making my own stainless header since the stock header is very restrictive, heavy and with a steam pipe wall thickness. I measured a 28mm ID when the exhaust port looks to be around the 34-36mm mark.

Wouldn't be a help at all.

[Noddy]

Hi guys,
I'm gary from Leicester in the U.K.. I have just come across this forum, and found this thread of great interest. I too have a 535GT (2015) and I also bought it to modify. Around 3 years ago I built my own flow bench to enable tuning the cylinder head. I have many years of tuning experience, so bought a brand new head from India and set about making improvements to the flow of 'gas' in and out of the cylinder head. I had done all the other usual stuff, larger valves, higher lift longer duration cams and of course, the outrigger bearing plate to support the crankshaft outside of the alternator. The handicap to producing good power was the fuel-injection system. I did have a power commander fitted, and with all the work done the bike felt strangled at high revs. The only way to go, was to fit a carburettor, replacing the fuel injector. I went for a 36mm Dellorto 'pumper' carburettor, having had much experience with them on Ducati race motors. I suspected a 38mm would be just too much, and lead to poor pick up and torque in the lower rev range. I kept the Power Commander V, not for the fuelling, but to allow switchable ignition curves and add the 'rev extend'  feature. The bike will genuinely do over the 'ton' now, without a fairing, and with me in a racing crouch. In the attached photos you can see the carburettor, and below the carb is a rotary switch to change the ignition advance curves (while road testing). I think a better piston would help produce even more power, but at the time I could not find anything suitable - perhaps there is something available now ?