[Adrian II]

I'm glad the fix was straightforward. 

A separate capacitor alongside the reg rectifier is a better idea than a combined unit unless space is severely limited. Single-phase reg/rectifiers are now so cheap as to be consumables.

A.

[tooseevee]

Hello gentlemen,

Thanks a lot for your much appreciated inputs.

        I've been following your wiring saga with interest because during the first two or three years of ownership of my '08 I went through every single wire and connection including unwrapping the main fore & aft harness (30+ wires) and fixed all the horrible wiring practices of the "AVL Days".

         Just a hint (you probably already know): It took me a couple hours to get all the sticky gooey black vinyl electrical tape that was wrapped by the mile around the main harness of my '08. Get yourself a roll of good, cloth, '50s style, harness wrap. It sticks to itself, but easily unwraps when necessary with no goo and it looks really good. 

         I also, as yours is, moved the battery into the right side case and got rid of X pounds of ugly fat. And it's always on a tender.

          I'm cheering you on. Good luck.

[ddavidv]

Am I the only one terrified by the photo of the battery with the unprotected terminals?

[Paul W]

Hmm.... see what you mean. I wouldn't say I was terrified but the positive terminal could do with some insulation. I'd probably use a short piece of rubber hose (or even plastic garden hose), slit down its side, slipped over the +ve terminal post and cable and tie wrapped on.

[Adrian II]

I would be concerned about contact with the toolbox lid, but I suspect that Pierric has already taken some form of precaution. Mine would be a chunk of inner tube glued to the inside of the lid where the positive terminal could short out.

Electra-X (and presumably Electra-EFI/G5) owners have to watch out for this too with the left-hand side panel. The factory's answer was to have a bit of vinyl cloth draped over the top of the battery, just wide enough to cover both terminals.

A.

[axman88]

Am I the only one terrified by the photo of the battery with the unprotected terminals?

Indeed!  Who hasn't been treated to what happens when they drop on 10" crescent wrench square on the battery posts of a car battery?

I assumed there must be some rubber cladding above the + terminal.

But a battery inside a closed metal box doesn't seem that awesome to me either.  Isn't the outgassing corrosive?  I've had corrosion of even skeletal battery holders.  Do "maintenance free", sealed types gas less or not at all?

[tooseevee]

Am I the only one terrified by the photo of the battery with the unprotected terminals?

           Why jump off so soon? The lid isn't closed on the terminals. He's just showing the battery.

           I've had my battery in that side case for years with no problem. I lay layers of folded thin foam, rubber and leather in there that not only insulate the electrickery but hold the battery firmly when the lid is closed and locked.

[Pierric]

Just a hint (you probably already know): It took me a couple hours to get all the sticky gooey black vinyl electrical tape that was wrapped by the mile around the main harness of my '08. Get yourself a roll of good, cloth, '50s style, harness wrap. It sticks to itself, but easily unwraps when necessary with no goo and it looks really good. 

Hello Tooseevee,
Thanks for the tip. My main harness under the tank is not made from electrical adhesive tape, but from a single piece PVC sheath. I was tempted to cut it to have a look at the wires but estimated that sometimes it's better to leave things as they are. If I need to change it, I will look out for the cloth harness wrap you recommand.

Regarding the battery terminals, they are indeed a temporary set used for the overhaul and electrical moves. This is what I found the first time I opened my left toolbox :

 

Thre was some work to do...

For the relocated battery terminals, I used the flat connectors of my new coil which allowed me quick wiring/unwiring during the 2 months maintenance.

Now that the coil have been changed, the eureca module suppressed, the new reg/rec changed and moved outside in the airflow, the AC regulator and flasher unit moved back to the original coil location on the back fender, the timing and carb set and the engine is starting and running well, and the capacitor tested, I will go back to classic bolted terminals protected by coil type rubber caps for riding the bike (which has still not left my basement and inner yard).

And for your question, ddavidv, I guess it cannot be seen on the picture, but the toolbox is drilled behind the capacitor for the exit of the battery gassing tube, which goes down outside in the airflow, tied to the rear frame.

Thanks all for your concern. This is indeed a great community.

Have a nice day everyone.

[tooseevee]

Indeed!  Who hasn't been treated to what happens when they drop on 10" crescent wrench square on the battery posts of a car battery?

I assumed there must be some rubber cladding above the + terminal.

But a battery inside a closed metal box doesn't seem that awesome to me either.  Isn't the outgassing corrosive?  I've had corrosion of even skeletal battery holders.  Do "maintenance free", sealed types gas less or not at all?

         I got that lesson indelibly printed in my brain early on in my 10 years in the CG in the late '50s and thru the '60s maintaining all kinds of small boat mechanicals and electricals from the ancient 36' unsinkable whaleboat with a Buda engine, 2-71s, 6-71s in 40 footers, Cummins V-6s in 44 footers and GM 8-268As on a 125' cutter for 2 years. Everything in those days required a lot of kissing and hugging constantly especially in the winter. There were no excuses allowed such as "it won't start". That was our worst nightmare.

         AGM batteries don't outgas anything.