When I bought my bullet the previous owner had been running a teeny little 3Ah, 50 CCA Duralast GSX4L in it.
Similarly, my Honda VT1100C2, which is supposed to have a 16Ah battery, and only has electric start, was running with a 9Ah battery when I got that.
As stated above, the alternator does the job once the machine is started. I'd measure the amp draw of the ignition and fuel pump, multiply that by a minute as a conservative estimate of extreme negative starting conditions, then make the baseline minimum battery capacity as 30 times that. By this formula, the small 3Ah battery I mention above would support a 6 amp draw by the systems mentioned.
Or, you might start by seeing how much space you have to spare, then looking for the largest battery that fits in that space.
Another consideration might be lighting systems draw. If you plan to ever be stuck by the roadside after dark, pushing or working on your bike, it's nice to have at least a couple of indicators blinking, for safety.
I think it's a good idea to make the India headlight conversion, so this can be turned off for starting, being stranded as mentioned above, and for other situations where it might be desirable. It's not illegal in the US to turn it off, it's just illegal to ride with it off.
I think I've read here on the forum that somebody was able to get their UCE started just by kicking, but not sure whether that was with NO battery, or just a very dead battery. I think if one had a capacitor in the system in place of a battery, one might accumulate charge by kicking, before switching on the ignition. After all, the charging system is always connected, but the ignition switches all loads off.