[ace.cafe]

Thanks, A.
That precludes any anodizing any time soon.

Believe it or not, flat barbecue black paint has about 98%  IR emissivity, and that about the best you can get from any paint or coating. Thermal conductivity to the air is reduced by about 10% according to some scientific tests that I have seen, regarding most types of paint on metal.
The good thing about the barbecue black is that it is cheap and easy to touch up when it gets worn or chipped.

[heloego]

I'd already used the VHT Gloss Black on this one. Touch-up will be minimal, and there's no reason it shouldn't run as cool as my AVL since it's the same formula.

Here's the progress so far. Gear box and chain case have been oiled, but I'll wait until the front end is installed before I go about the engine oil and fire it up.

Gave the covers a bit of TLC, too.

[Bilgemaster]

My word, but that's a pretty engine! And after all that sanding and buffing, he can't have any fingerprints left! It would almost have been the makings of "The Perfect Crime" were it not for his reflection in the timing case!

[heloego]

Glad I remembered to wear clothes! 

[tooseevee]

I'd already used the VHT Gloss Black on this one. Touch-up will be minimal, and there's no reason it shouldn't run as cool as my AVL since it's the same formula.

Here's the progress so far. Gear box and chain case have been oiled, but I'll wait until the front end is installed before I go about the engine oil and fire it up.

Gave the covers a bit of TLC, too.

            I'm sure you realize that you're making me F-ing nuts, don't you? 

             Great googley moogaly that's nice

             P.S.: I don't think what is used to coat or paint the cylinder OR the head amounts to a hill of beans as far as cooling is concerned. And even if it does, it is such a tiny piece of the equation as to not matter at all real lifewise. I built a bike (a 1980) in 1986 piece by piece; total Mattel Kit rebuild. Every piece was either H of K black lacquer or wrinkle black including the transmission which alone I spent weeks on prepping; two years in total. I rode it 'til I sold it in 1998 with no problems and the wrinkle black still looked bright and black. The buyer flew to the east coast with his brother to truck the bike back to Iowa in a rented U-Haul and he was a very happy boy. They spent two days at my house going over every detail and history.

[heloego]

120 Days! Jeezus!
Been an interesting last three months. Haven't had many moments to spare on the project other than re-painting the casquette top (Don't ask  ).
Back in December my boss died. Add to that the loss of a tech a few months earlier and now we're down to 50% staff trying to keep up with a 66% increase in the helicopter fleet. Been freakin' CRAZY since the 1st of the year, and I've been averaging only four days off/month since, so no real updates at this time. And no rides since then, either. Best I've been able to do is a weekly startup of the bike.

And the whole Covid thingie doesn't come into the picture much since I'm considered "Essential Personnel" and carry a Company letter to present to authorities during lockdown, so it's not like I get to stay home and get caught up on the project. 
Oh, well. This, too, shall pass.
The current upside is that travel to/from work is almost a pleasure now due to the dramatically reduced traffic. 

[REpozer]

120 Days! Jeezus!
Been an interesting last three months. Haven't had many moments to spare on the project other than re-painting the casquette top (Don't ask  ).
Back in December my boss died. Add to that the loss of a tech a few months earlier and now we're down to 50% staff trying to keep up with a 66% increase in the helicopter fleet. Been freakin' CRAZY since the 1st of the year, and I've been averaging only four days off/month since, so no real updates at this time. And no rides since then, either. Best I've been able to do is a weekly startup of the bike.

And the whole Covid thingie doesn't come into the picture much since I'm considered "Essential Personnel" and carry a Company letter to present to authorities during lockdown, so it's not like I get to stay home and get caught up on the project. 
Oh, well. This, too, shall pass.
The current upside is that travel to/from work is almost a pleasure now due to the dramatically reduced traffic. 

I hear being an A&P is becoming a real career nowdays.

[tooseevee]

     Is the Mikuni VM round slide easier to work with than the TM flat slide relative to getting the cable attached to the slide and getting that spring depressed & getting that %#%@*MF^&*^CS%$^&*bstrd cap back on & the screws in? 

      It is a plain and simple nightmare for me to do with my hands and wrists (and the rest of me) being what they are.

[Adrian II]

It's quite a while since I worked on a Mikuni VM32 but I seem to recall fitting it to my tuned up BSA B40 was easy enough. That was in 1994, though!

I do have a Dell'Orto PHF32 that's not got anything to do at the moment.

A.

[tooseevee]

It's quite a while since I worked on a Mikuni VM32 but I seem to recall fitting it to my tuned up BSA B40 was easy enough. That was in 1994, though!

I do have a Dell'Orto PHF32 that's not got anything to do at the moment.

A.

         You're too far away and I'm too old 

[ace.cafe]

The VM might be a bit easier than the TM for the spring. But not much easier. It all comes down to the throttle cable length, and the cable adjuster.
I have always had a hard time with it. Having someone else to provide a "3rd hand" can help.

[Adrian II]

         You're too far away and I'm too old 

Well, fitting throttle springs around cable ends and slides can be a fiddle for young or old with ANY carb. I notice Dell'Orto have three different strengths of throttle spring.

The alternative would be one of the Mikuni pumper 4 stroke flat slide carbs, either the TM33-something or the TM36-31 which I had on my old Electra-X. These have twin push-pull throttle cables, you wrap the ends round a wheel thingy where the ferrule sits in a slot, a bit like the twistgrip. Your switchgear cluster on the r/h handlebar is single cable, but being copied from Suzuki switchgear is easily be adaptable to twin cable. Let me see if I can find a picture or two.

My old TM36-31 (also currently resting between bikes). The TM33 is a different shape, but I remember a few years ago someone had fitted one successfully. Mounting for the 36-31 is best with a modified XT/SR500 Yamaha carb rubber flange, the only real problem with the 36 is that it's a tight fit under the rear gas tank mount. Given Ace's preference for not using larger bore carbs I suspect the TM33-? would suit your inlet tract better.



Twin cable throttle. The twin cables for the EFI models' throttle bodies look as though they'd fit, they appear to work on the same principle, the twist grip barrel from an EFI should also do the job. Mine plundered some used Suzuki parts!



Last I heard, international postal services are still operating. 

A.

[tooseevee]

Well, fitting throttle springs around cable ends and slides can be a fiddle for young or old with ANY carb. I notice Dell'Orto have three different strengths of throttle spring.

The alternative would be one of the Mikuni pumper 4 stroke flat slide carbs, either the TM33-something or the TM36-31 which I had on my old Electra-X. These have twin push-pull throttle cables, you wrap the ends round a wheel thingy where the ferrule sits in a slot, a bit like the twistgrip. Your switchgear cluster on the r/h handlebar is single cable, but being copied from Suzuki switchgear is easily be adaptable to twin cable. Let me see if I can find a picture or two.

My old TM36-31 (also currently resting between bikes). The TM33 is a different shape, but I remember a few years ago someone had fitted one successfully. Mounting for the 36-31 is best with a modified XT/SR500 Yamaha carb rubber flange, the only real problem with the 36 is that it's a tight fit under the rear gas tank mount. Given Ace's preference for not using larger bore carbs I suspect the TM33-? would suit your inlet tract better.

Twin cable throttle. The twin cables for the EFI models' throttle bodies look as though they'd fit, they appear to work on the same principle, the twist grip barrel from an EFI should also do the job. Mine plundered some used Suzuki parts!

Last I heard, international postal services are still operating. 

A.

      I believe I will leave well enough alone. Bike starts good, runs Grrrate, no problems in any gear or at any RPM, smooth as pigsh*t. I doubt I'll even be able to be on the road. I'll get hauled in on a trumped-up charge of "Solitary Biking".

       I'm gonna stick with the bitch I know rather than take on another bitch I Don't know. 

        Thanks for the offer and all the words.

[heloego]

Update:
The AVL Classic has come along nicely (I figure 80% completed.), but I've run into a snag in the electrical.
All that's left is to deal with these two connectors, both 2-pin, and originally labeled for my convenience. Problem is I now have no connectors to match up to these. One is male, the other female, and both come out of what appears to be a gang box or power distributor. The long pigtail with the 2-pin connector is labeled "Multi A" referring to the box labeled "Multi", the other I simply labeled "Unknown" and it also comes from the box. So I got out the wiring diagram and...
MULTIPLE checks of the Wiring Diagram have left me stumped, as I simply cannot see this box anywhere in the damned thing! I'm either blind, a fool, or both but I could sure use a push in the right direction.
If I can get this done, all that's left is a to finish tidying up the wiring, install the seat, fire it up and go from there.

[tooseevee]

Update:
The AVL Classic has come along nicely (I figure 80% completed.), but I've run into a snag in the electrical.
All that's left is to deal with these two connectors, both 2-pin, and originally labeled for my convenience. Problem is I now have no connectors to match up to these. One is male, the other female, and both come out of what appears to be a gang box or power distributor. The long pigtail with the 2-pin connector is labeled "Multi A" referring to the box labeled "Multi", the other I simply labeled "Unknown" and it also comes from the box. So I got out the wiring diagram and...
MULTIPLE checks of the Wiring Diagram have left me stumped, as I simply cannot see this box anywhere in the damned thing! I'm either blind, a fool, or both but I could sure use a push in the right direction.
If I can get this done, all that's left is a to finish tidying up the wiring, install the seat, fire it up and go from there.

           Good morning!

            I'm only responding so you don't think that I don't care Any activity on the AVL Channel is welcome because there sure ain't much activity nowadays 

            I'm so bored I had to go into the exhaust again just for something to do and ordered a header pipe from Hitchcocks that I don't "really" need, but as Dylan said many years ago: "People got a lot of forks and knives. Gotta cut something". So the black bitch is going to be wearing chrome again -at least for while.

             Anyway. I have no clue what that black box is so all I can do is wish you luck. I assume there are no numbers or anything on it that would interest Google? You woulda done that already.

             Carry on