Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: singhg5 on September 13, 2010, 12:16:58 am
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RE motorcycles are always needing some TLC. Now that my black stallion G5 has reached 5 figures on odometer, it wants more :D.
On my G5, there were tears of fork oil on the rear side of left fork bellows. I wiped it clean and again the fork oil film appeared. I took off the top ring clamp and looked behind it, but the main tube was clean. Where is it coming from ?? Followed the tube up and found that there was some oil inside the head lamp casing, around the fork tube. It led me to the top of the tube where I found that the Screw Plug was loose. Tightened it and hopefully it is fine.
Just a friendly reminder to new owners of these Bullet motorcycle - Tighten every screw, nut, bolt head that you can see. I had missed this Screw Plug and this fork oil leak soon reminded me that it needs TLC. ;)
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That "Screw Plug" has an o-ring on it. On the older ones the o-ring would kinda disintegrate. A hardware store o-ring was a worthy upgrade.
If it keeps leaking replace em.
CJ
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That "Screw Plug" has an o-ring on it. On the older ones the o-ring would kinda disintegrate. A hardware store o-ring was a worthy upgrade.
If it keeps leaking replace em.
CJ
Thanks CJ.
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Singh, remove that slotted chrome plug ,and see if there is fork oil under it. If there is, there should not be, if you have the same front end as a C-5. If I remember correctly,there is another plug under that chrome one. I believe is has a 6mm allen head. see if it is loose.The top chrome slotted plug is decorative. The plug under it is the top plug on the fork. You can not remove it through the hole, but you can tighten or loosen it some through the hole. I think maybe that is where it is leaking from.
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I agree to above. On my c5 its size 13 Lk i think. You have to tightened the seal cap under the chrome cap to stop the oil from leaking.
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There is no plug under the slotted chrome top plug on the G5. At least not on my G5. I have previously removed the chrome plug to check the fork oil level with a wire dip stick - only one plug to remove.
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Sigh JI can you post a picture of the exploded view of the fork assembly from the service manual, that would give a clear picture to what parts are on the assembly.
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I don't know what purpose a plug under a plug would be but there is no extra plugs on my G5.
The hex under the plug on mine is for unscrewing the fork tube from the upper tree.
CJ
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The top cap on C5 works as a cosmetic as well as weather protection for the oil cap in the fork.
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I don't know what purpose a plug under a plug would be but there is no extra plugs on my G5.
The hex under the plug on mine is for unscrewing the fork tube from the upper tree.
CJ
Yea CJ, Thats the plug or cap I was refering to. IF it's the same as the C-5. You can tighten or loosen it a bit, through the hole under the chrome plug. I may be a different set up though on the G-5, Will says he can remove the chrome plug and access the fork oil? There is probably a O ring on the hex plug you were refering to as well?
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The hex I was referring to is actually made right in to the top of the fork tube. And if you can screw it one way or another then your fork tube is loose.
After it is screwed all the way up the pinch clamp in the lower tree is tightened so it won't unscrew itself.
Don't know if the C5 is different but change doesn't seem to happen at REM often.
CJ
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@gashousegorilla-I think G5 owners will get a clear picture once we see the exploded view of the fork/rod assembly.
On a C5 fork rod, you can loosen or tighten the hex bolt which has a seal but you can not undo the hex bolt cap completely without removing the fork rods. For that you have to remove the forks.
I just compared two different C5 manuals and I think I know the reason for so much confusion and different opinion between two C5 fork oil caps.
Somewhere down the line RE has changed the design of the end caps and rods of C5 fork or there is a difference between the domestic and export C5 suspension. In one diagram it has 4 parts of a assembly of a end cap of the fork where as Will said that he can unscrew the flange bolt and he's absolutely right.
Another design fork rod has only one cap with a o-ring which gets screwed on to the inside if the rod. This is the one I have and I am not lucky enough like Will to unscrew the bolt to check or feed oil into the rod. For me the whole suspension has to come out to put some fresh oil.
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I had a similar leak on my '04 Sixty-5. It has a little O-ring at the very top of the fork. If tightening up the tube and replacing the O-ring in the cap doesn't get it you will have to pull the top tube and replace that little sucker.
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That "Screw Plug" has an o-ring on it. On the older ones the o-ring would kinda disintegrate. A hardware store o-ring was a worthy upgrade.
If it keeps leaking replace em.
CJ
I guess you are talking about the O-ring on Top Screw Plug as shown below in the picture. The top screw plug is about 1 inch long.
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There is no plug under the slotted chrome top plug on the G5. At least not on my G5. I have previously removed the chrome plug to check the fork oil level with a wire dip stick - only one plug to remove.
I don't know what purpose a plug under a plug would be but there is no extra plugs on my G5.
The hex under the plug on mine is for unscrewing the fork tube from the upper tree.
CJ
My G5 forks are like the ones described by WillW and CJ. There is no plug under the Top Screw Plug, which is quite long and has an O-ring on it. The tip of this top screw plug may reach large Hex opening on the top of the upper fork tube end.
As WillW did, I could also push an old hanger metal straightened wire deep into the form and check the oil level. Looked at both left and right forks and both are the same.
There was some oil on top of the Hexagonal Hole as seen in the picture below. This fork oil must have jumped several inches up to the top due to numerous sharp cracks and bumps on our roads (SSR - not much different from your roads !). The roads are not so motorcycle friendly where I live.
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Sigh JI can you post a picture of the exploded view of the fork assembly from the service manual, that would give a clear picture to what parts are on the assembly.
SSR ji:
Here is the picture of exploded view of the fork and its parts from the parts catalog for G5. This picture does not show the Top Screw Plug attachment to the fork.
I have added another picture, with the top screw, a few posts later.
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The hex I was referring to is actually made right in to the top of the fork tube. And if you can screw it one way or another then your fork tube is loose.
After it is screwed all the way up the pinch clamp in the lower tree is tightened so it won't unscrew itself.
Don't know if the C5 is different but change doesn't seem to happen at REM often.
CJ
Yea CJ, I realize that. I not talking about spinning the hex or plug in or out, I'm talking maybe a 1/4-1/2 a turn. I think those legs are hand screwed in a the factory. So there's a thread or two left., after tightening. I guess you could sock it up tighter with a strap wrench or pipe wrench? But I'm not seeing any movement in the leg. Especialy with the lower's pinched up.
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Somewhere down the line RE has changed the design of the end caps and rods of C5 fork or there is a difference between the domestic and export C5 suspension.
In one diagram it has 4 parts of a assembly of a end cap of the fork where as Will said that he can unscrew the flange bolt and he's absolutely right and I am not lucky enough like Will to unscrew the bolt to check or feed oil into the rod. For me the whole suspension has to come out to put some fresh oil.
WillW and I have G5 or its equivalent that has a user friendly design. Open the drain plug at the bottom of the fork to remove the oil and fill it from top without having to take out the forks. I think CJ or someone had mentioned about how easy it is to change fork oil on his RE.
Below is a picture of ESTIMATED oil level in the fork using a hanger wire through the top opening. Can anyone confirm these kind of levels ?
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Thanks Singh Ji for the picture
Here I have attached the two different C5 suspension setup.
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Yup, My C-5 has a different design. Sorry to add any confusion. ::) But intersting stuff though. You got it !, Singh ;)
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Yup, My C-5 has a different design. Sorry to add any confusion. ::) But intersting stuff though. You got it !, Singh ;)
No problem at all, Thanks for calling.
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Thanks Singh Ji for the picture
Here I have attached the two different C5 suspension setup.
The following picture is from the Service Manual and it shows the set up on G5 with Top Screw Plug.
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G5 seems like a much simpler design.
As you say the cap on yours was loose so looking at it I think the leak should stop since you have tightened it. If it doesn't then just change the O-ring.
Can anyone shed some light to why there are two different design for C5 rods?
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I had a similar leak on my '04 Sixty-5. It has a little O-ring at the very top of the fork. If tightening up the tube and replacing the O-ring in the cap doesn't get it you will have to pull the top tube and replace that little sucker.
Leonard:
Thanks for your post and the picture. In my G5, there is no such round threaded hole on the top of upper fork. There is only a flattened hexagonal hole on which the tip of the Top Srew Plug sits. Do you have 2 plugs - one on top of the fork, and another on the headlight casing ?
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G5 seems like a much simpler design.
As you say the cap on yours was loose so looking at it I think the leak should stop since you have tightened it. If it doesn't then just change the O-ring.
Can anyone shed some light to why there are two different design for C5 rods?
??? Mabe should have left well enough alone? That system makes maintenance MUCH EASIER!
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Leonard:
Thanks for your post and the picture. In my G5, there is no such round threaded hole on the top of upper fork. There is only a flattened hexagonal hole on which the tip of the Top Srew Plug sits. Do you have 2 plugs - one on top of the fork, and another on the headlight casing ?
Only one plug that goes in the visible threads. The hexagonal hole is down there, you can just make out one side if you look close. The O-ring I'm referring to isn't visible unless you unscrew the top tube.
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Only one plug that goes in the visible threads. The hexagonal hole is down there, you can just make out one side if you look close. The O-ring I'm referring to isn't visible unless you unscrew the top tube.
Leonard:
You have really clarified some of the questions in my mind. Now I see what you mean. I did see a part of the hexagonal hole, deep down in your picture.
In one of my pictures in this post (SDC13951) that shows the exploded view of fork, the O-ring you are referring to is No. 2 in the picture ? I could not find where was this O-ring on my bike until you described with picture. Thanks.
I do have one question though - If the Top Screw Plug is long enough and its tip reaches the hexagonal hole and covers it fully, how can oil come out and reach the O-ring (no.2 in picture) and then slip outside ? The reason I am asking is that in the other picture - with big hex hole (SDC13947A) - the edges of hex hole show a circular marking as if the tip of Top Screw Plug was touching it and blocking it. When it became a little loose, the contact was broken and oil came out.
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Just wanted to add that the Top Screw Plug does NOT reach the hexagonal hole. It is short by about 3 mm. The oil can jump all the way up the fork and spill out of hex hole when the front shocks hit railway lines or riding over bumpy or cracked and corrugated surface of road. The O-ring that Leonard has mentioned must be replaced or the top end of fork is loose and needs to be screwed in tightly.