Author Topic: Geoffs Modifications  (Read 820 times)

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Geoff Vader

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on: January 07, 2024, 07:23:47 pm
Well, a new year and at last I’ve got time to start on modifying my 535.

I’ve started at the back end and will work my way forward, not too much on the engine this side of autumn, but I’ll start on that then. I’ll be removing as much weight as I can, as this always helps.

Found a lovely CNC machined number plate, tail light and indicators bracket on aliexpress, dirt cheap and nice quality. I’m using a Lucas 529 tail/stop light which was used on many British bikes and is tiny compared to the original. I’ve made a light and number plate holder from 2mm aluminium and a bracket to attach it all to the frame. Ready for final spraying and I can fix it all on. I’ve had to remove most of the mudguard, but there’s enough left to stop rubbish going into the tail hump.
I can kill you with a tray!


GUNR

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Reply #1 on: February 08, 2024, 11:09:56 am
How are those modifications going Geoff?

Dave
Riding a motorcycle is like life; it's about the journey not the destination.


Geoff Vader

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Reply #2 on: February 11, 2024, 06:08:32 pm
Hi Dave, strangely I’ve been in the garage today taking some photos and turning the bike round. Been held up a bit with various things, but the cold weather was stopping me from spraying anything.

I said I’d cut the rear mudguard down, this is all that’s left of it!

The heavy steel tail/brake light bracket has gone, everything at the back is now alloy or plastic, saving nearly 1 kg from that.

The Hagon shocks are 1.4 kg lighter than the originals and removing the rear footrest brackets saves another 0.75 kg. I will be cutting the exhaust bracket down further and will replace it with an aluminium stay.

The centre stand lift handle and toolkit save another 0.9 kg.

The centre stand will go, I use a paddock stand in the garage and there’s the huge weight saving from changing the exhaust.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2024, 06:10:55 pm by Geoff Vader »
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BakerDom

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Reply #3 on: February 14, 2024, 07:30:16 pm
Hi Geoff

I am a recent new owner of a used GT535 - previous owner had  new exhaust/silencer on and a few other weight savings + performance mods - so bike is @ 8kg lighter at present.

Photo of bike with replacement Hitchcocks ex pipe/silencer.

Biggest & best weight saving vs cost is swop battery (4.5kg) to lithium (0.9kg) =3.6kg saving!

Kind Regards


Geoff Vader

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Reply #4 on: February 16, 2024, 05:31:01 pm
Bike looks great.👍

I’ve already got the ‘Gold Star’ look silencer which is really light.

I’ll be changing the battery to a lithium one. Which one did you use? I’m looking to go small as well as light but maintaining the cca.

Regards,
I can kill you with a tray!


Beeza

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Reply #5 on: February 16, 2024, 08:33:41 pm
Hi Geoff

I am a recent new owner of a used GT535 - previous owner had  new exhaust/silencer on and a few other weight savings + performance mods - so bike is @ 8kg lighter at present.

Photo of bike with replacement Hitchcocks ex pipe/silencer.

Biggest & best weight saving vs cost is swop battery (4.5kg) to lithium (0.9kg) =3.6kg saving!

Kind Regards

That’s the first one I’ve seen with the original horns I disturbed. Horns are a big deal in India where they get lots of work. I’d consider moving them out of the airflow to the cylinder. There are several alternative locations.

Some clot hung one down from the crossbrace right in front of the head on mine. Worst place imaginable, and it does run cooler now with it gone.

Really tasty looking bike.


BakerDom

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Reply #6 on: February 17, 2024, 02:57:05 pm
Hi Geoff/Beeza
Thank you.

I used a JMT battery - HJT9B-FP-SI - gives you 180cca and rated for a Duke 690 - (so should handle the GT535)- there's one on e~~~~ for @£66 if in uk

I have one that's now 6 years old in another bike and still works fine.

Make sure you have a lithium battery charger - as normal battery chargers are no good!!!!!

Regarding the horn - I bent the thin flat plate bracket and managed to house one just under the tank. (so saved 0.75Kg inc brkt by not having 2!).

It's still clear of the head for air-flow/access and sounds plenty loud enough under there!

Spotted on another post - someone swopped the Paoli rear shocks for Hagons and saved 1.5kg on the pair. But that's even more expense....

Kind Regards


Beeza

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Reply #7 on: February 17, 2024, 04:10:23 pm
I hear lots of negative rants about the yellow shock springs. They come off dead easy by unscrewing the preload adjuster, and painting them black is as easy as painting something black.

I found the original springs on mine too stiff for anything other than smooth track use or two up. I’m 170 lbs and the Paioli soft springs from Hitchcock are spot on. Being softer, they match the rebound rate better and I no longer think about them. The springs are also black to start with. I’ll run them until they fail.

I’m about to remount my horn in the same undertank location and the bending of the spring seems like a simpler fix than making a bracket. I use the horn about three times a decade around here, at most, mainly to see if it still works. I guess you should have one.

I’m thinking of using a zip tie as a safety in case the spring breaks to keep it from sailing around and damaging something, like the wiring.


Nasher

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Reply #8 on: February 18, 2024, 10:10:02 am
I fitted a JMT YTX14-BS Lithium battery - smaller and much lighter than the original

It came with padding pieces to fit in the original position

As posted above, you must use a specific lithium charger (already had one to use on one of my other bikes) I also fitted a tail to make on-bike charging easier

I've replaced the twin horns with an Oxford fog horn using the 2 holes below the headstock - horn is loud but can't be seen - link here:
https://www.oxfordproducts.com/motorcycle/brands/oxford/workshop/accessories/foghorn_12v_motorcycle_horn_black/

As I've posted many times before, the best mod I've made is replacing those hideous yellow & gold shocks with black and chrome ones - but I'm happy to accept beauty is in the eyes of the beholder!



gizzo

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Reply #9 on: February 18, 2024, 10:29:13 am
Why would you buy a battery that needs a special charger? How's it going to charge on the bike? The lithium batteries I've used come with charge, protection and balance circuits built into the box.
simon from south Australia
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Nasher

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Reply #10 on: February 18, 2024, 05:53:13 pm
The bike's charging system charges a lithium battery up just fine

It's only when the bike has been unused for a time that I have a mains charger to top it up. The charging algorithm used for a lead acid battery charger is different to that required for a lithium battery


gizzo

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Reply #11 on: February 19, 2024, 08:15:02 am
Nah, it's fine to use a pb battery dumb charger.
simon from south Australia
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BakerDom

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Reply #12 on: February 20, 2024, 08:08:19 am
Regarding the use of an appropriate lithium charger for a lithium battery and why you shouldn't use a normal battery charger:-for information-

Since many battery chargers – including the smart ones – are designed for the 12.8-volt requirements of lead-acid batteries, they will not charge most lithium batteries. Additionally, smart chargers expect to be connected to six 2 volt cells, but lithium batteries typically have four 3.3 volt cells. So, they’re not really speaking the same electrical language. Batteries with special circuitry can work with this lower voltage. However, it won’t be an optimum set up. Consequently, it is a good idea to get a smart charger designed for lithium batteries.

For my own peace of mind I only use a lithium charger on my litium batteries, the good news is the charger is an automatic charger and will also detect and charge a normal Pb acide, motorcycle battery as well!

I use a Motopoer charger, there others out there!


BakerDom

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Reply #13 on: February 20, 2024, 08:10:25 am
Apologies for the typo, it should have read Motopower !!!


gizzo

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Reply #14 on: Yesterday at 01:17:08 am
Regarding the use of an appropriate lithium charger for a lithium battery and why you shouldn't use a normal battery charger:-for information-

Since many battery chargers – including the smart ones – are designed for the 12.8-volt requirements of lead-acid batteries, they will not charge most lithium batteries. Additionally, smart chargers expect to be connected to six 2 volt cells, but lithium batteries typically have four 3.3 volt cells. So, they’re not really speaking the same electrical language. Batteries with special circuitry can work with this lower voltage. However, it won’t be an optimum set up. Consequently, it is a good idea to get a smart charger designed for lithium batteries.

For my own peace of mind I only use a lithium charger on my litium batteries, the good news is the charger is an automatic charger and will also detect and charge a normal Pb acide, motorcycle battery as well!

I use a Motopoer charger, there others out there!

Ok, if you insist. Is this something you've learned through personal experience or read it on a charger manufacturers website? I've been using either a dumb charger or a RC battery charger on pb setting for 10 years now. Both work fine. Not often, mind you. If you're topping up lithium batteries often, there's something wrong with your bike. Or battery. Mine only need charging if I've done something dumb like leaving the key on.
simon from south Australia
Continental GT
Pantah
DR250
DRZ400SM
C90
GSX250E