[viczena]

If he does not fix the leak in or around the manifold, a carburator will be of no help. Even if you paint it red and blue.

[AzCal Retred]

True enough if it's a gasket or O-ring that can be easily replaced or resealed. If it's a cracked/defective throttle body component, maybe less so. Doesn't sound like there's much local support. Sounds like a chronic problem if it was always present, possibly a factory defect. At least we have determined there's no deuteranomaly or protanomaly going on here.

[Bilgemaster]

The air leak seems to be confirmed.
I hear a hum in the TPS area, when spraying there with body throttle cleaner, the rpm increases for a few seconds and then the engine shuts down. My next step was to check the valve regulation, is it worth doing or do I focus first on fixing the leak?

"One thing at a time!"

[Karl Fenn]

Judging by his spraying it's almost certainly an air leake, l have had a carb with a hair line crack.

[oldphart]

"  I'm really tired and thinking of selling it, because my experience with this bike was not good from day one. I think the problem is in the air and fuel proportions of the mixture (the spark plug is a bit carbonized), but I do not know the procedure to achieve the correct setting. "

Before you give up and scrap a basically good machine, there is a plan "B" that doesn't involve becoming an EFI tech:

https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/41381?ref_page=HimalayanPART No. 90058

CARBURETTOR CONVERSION KIT (Himalayan) ; £335.00

Carburettor conversion kit for the fuel injected Himalayan models. This kit includes all the components required to convert your Himalayan away from fuel injection to a CV carburettor.
All of the components are bolt on items, and it is a completely reversible modification. Supplied jetted to suit the standard Himalayan model.

H's has a PDF of their install instructions on the part page. Here's an excerpt:
"The carburettor is supplied with a base setting for a standard Himalayan and will require fine tuning. The carburettor comes jetted to suit a standard Himalayan. As a base setting, turn the pilot air screw in fully, and then unscrew by 1 ½ to 2 full turns."
Pretty straightforward, just keep the fuel & air clean and it should work well for you.

Stirrer 

[oldphart]

I don't know the part you're talking about, but if it's rubber, be aware that the Indian rubber that RE uses can be pretty crappy. I got this from a mate with a Cont GT (the single) and he's had rubber issues.

[Karl Fenn]

It does sound if the air leak is the main cause not sucking in right mixture, get it air tight then run test it might be ok.

[pmperez2014]

Hello gentlemen, thank you for your opinions.
As the bike is still under warranty, I decided to stop reaching for it and take it to the local RE dealer, who I doubt has technical support up to the task. After leaving the bike there for two days, they inform me that they "fixed" the problem: they just increased the RPM by touching the gold air intake screw. Now the behavior of the motorcycle is as follows:
1.Starts with a cold engine and when releasing the accelerator it does not maintain idle and turns off. I was instructed to hold the 2000 rpm on the throttle for two to three minutes to warm up.
2. After those minutes operating the accelerator, when releasing it the motorcycle regulates at 1500 rpm (although irregularly).
3. When driving and testing on the street, it no longer turns off in the corners because it has more revolutions, but then with the engine warm the motorcycle regulates at 2000 rpm. If I turn off the engine and restart it, it stays at 1500 rpm for two minutes and automatically goes back up to 2000 rpm and there it stays. In other words, they did not solve anything, of course they charged me for the "service".

I claimed that abnormal behavior (it was just Friday) and they told me that I will take the bike the following Monday. They say they will continue to "regulate." I think they will continue to play with the golden screw. I still think it is an air leak and maybe a manufacturing defect in the throttle body. The problem was present from the first day 1, I feel cheated and angry because I should not have received the motorcycle in those conditions, all the time they tried to convince me that the operation of the motorcycle was "normal". Will I have to take the bike again as many times as necessary until they admit and recognize the real problem? I do not know what to do. Saludos!!!!

[viczena]

If the airleak is done it could still be an erratic engine temp sensor. The dealer can readout the values and look if they are plausible.

But if you dealer just increased the idle RPM to "cure" the problem, you should look for another dealer.

[Ambrosig]

Good evening friends, I want to consult my engine tune-up problem, I can't get a stable idle, there are ups and downs in the RPM and it ends up turning off, after riding for half an hour and with the engine relatively warm stop failing. It is noticeable with less reaction when operating the accelerator, it works like drowning, you hear back-explosions and it wants to stop, you notice a heavy operatio.....

Disconnect negative from Battery about 2 or 3 hours

[dlapierre]

I had idle issues when my Himalayan was new. The idle was a bit erratic and it stalled from idle often. I did these two things and it made all the difference:
-I called the dealer and asked what the voltage from the ECU should read and I then adjusted it using a voltmeter. It was off just a wee bit. I forget just what it was supposed to be. You should ask the dealer. If they don't know, as them to ask the manufacturer what it should be. That's how they found out for me when I asked.
-I installed a booster plug. Cheap and easy to install.

Those two little fixes fixed all my problems.

[longstrokeclassic]

I think your TPS value may be a bit on the low side. After a lot of experimentation I came to the conclusion that 0.63v was pretty close to the optimum setting for the Keihin fuel injection system unless you’re  deviating from the stock set-up.

[dlapierre]

That sounds about right.