[tooseevee]

         Years ago there were a few Green TCIs (147100) around from vendors other than Hitchcock's.

          Now when I'm looking for a spare to keep for the coming years, I have searched and find none. Sooner or later..........

          Hitchcock's price is not bad, but just trying to avoid shipping.

   

           

[REpozer]

I changed years ago to green . I saved the old tci box as a backup.

[Citrus]

I have a few spare - if you want 1 $50 Aussie is good for me

[heloego]

When I need a part I usually order a minimum of two, so I always have a backup. Why get only one when you can get two for twice the price? 

[tooseevee]

When I need a part I usually order a minimum of two, so I always have a backup. Why get only one when you can get two for twice the price? 

       I never did "order" my Green TCI. Got it for free from Kevin at CMW  But I think you knew that.

       I guess I'll end up getting one from Hitchcock's before they're all gone forever.

[tooseevee]

My new Green TCI to have on the shelf if ever needed is on its way to me.

Thanks, Tim

Damn good price, too  [/img]

[mtrue77]

I'll expose my lack of experience here, but what is "Green TCI."  I googled it, but i just got referred back to this post.

[Nitrowing]

I'll expose my lack of experience here, but what is "Green TCI."  I googled it, but i just got referred back to this post.

A different ignition unit with slightly altered timings. Supposed to help prevent the sprag smashing when using the electric start.

[mtrue77]

Thank you

[tooseevee]

A different ignition unit with slightly altered timings. Supposed to help prevent the sprag smashing when using the electric start.

       "supposed to" are the operative words here.

        After living a very intimate extra-marital affair with my '08 AVL for 12 years, I have come to believe that the so-called "first spark delay " of the green TCI does not really happen. If you crank with a low battery you Will Get a kickback. If your kick is not strong and smooth All The Way down as far as you can kick it, you will get a kickback.

         The most important thing to be sure of (and it's too late now; most have blown & been replaced), to make the sprag last, was a 100% charged battery.

          The OEM sprag clutch was a piece of crap from the get-go. A time bomb made of cheese, cardboard and high hopes. 

 

[Bilgemaster]

For the benefit of any newcomers here who may have or are thinking of acquiring a nice old AVL or Iron Barrel Bullet with a starter still in place--maybe someone's old "third bike" with some absurdly low mileage on the clock as one sees from time to time, you'd do well to sift through the Forum Archives for the keyword "Sprag".

In the meantime, here's the Cliff Notes version of precautions to at least try  to keep that notoriously wonky starter sprag clutch from grenading:

• NEVER use the starter if you can avoid it
• Always use the decompressor to stop the engine to avoid kickback (the "Sprag Killer")
• If you MUST use the starter, first engage the decompression lever to help the crank build up a bit of inertia with a couple-few spins BEFORE releasing the lever (again, to try to avoid kickback)
• Don't even think  about using the starter unless the battery is tip-top
• Run about 800ml or close to a quart of Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid in the primary chain case instead of the 420ml determined by the fluid level plug to better bathe that finicky sprag gear cluster
• NEVER use the starter if you can avoid it!

Of course, none of this helped my Iron Belly's sprag, which crapped out gentler than most, but shit the bed all the same of its own accord, though it hadn't been spun in many weeks.

[Nitrowing]

For the benefit of any newcomers here who may have or are thinking of acquiring a nice old AVL or Iron Barrel Bullet with a starter still in place--maybe someone's old "third bike" with some absurdly low mileage on the clock as one sees from time to time, you'd do well to sift through the Forum Archives for the keyword "Sprag".

In the meantime, here's the Cliff Notes version of precautions to at least try  to keep that notoriously wonky starter sprag clutch from grenading:

• NEVER use the starter if you can avoid it
• Always use the decompressor to stop the engine to avoid kickback (the "Sprag Killer")
• If you MUST use the starter, first engage the decompression lever to help the crank build up a bit of inertia with a couple-few spins BEFORE releasing the lever (again, to try to avoid kickback)
• Don't even think  about using the starter unless the battery is tip-top
• Run about 800ml or close to a quart of Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid in the primary chain case instead of the 420ml determined by the fluid level plug to better bathe that finicky sprag gear cluster
• NEVER use the starter if you can avoid it!

Of course, none of this helped my Iron Belly's sprag, which crapped out gentler than most, but shit the bed all the same of its own accord, though it hadn't been spun in many weeks.

...and this is why I'll be selling mine when I get home!