[AzCal Retred]

Bars are looking good! Glad you have the 5-speed, way more user friendly. The OEM key switch is cak; I have a new one in a box that won't retain the key in "ON".

Seats are tough to get right without riding on one a while. Ddavidv has a good'n, I have the yard sale vinyl version. Mine's a little soft and has a bit of a pocket, so after a couple hours it gets old not being able to slide back a bit. The leather version looks harder & flatter, both attributes which should be an improvement over mine. I'd probably go with ddavidv's leather choice to live with long term. 
Leather = PART No. 91475 ; SINGLE SEAT, TRIALS TYPE, LEATHER, BLACK ; (Brown = PN# 91476) ; £125.00
Vinyl = PART No. Z91363 ; BROWN STUDDED SEAT TO FIT ALL IRON BARREL 350 / 500 MODELS ; £60.00

PART No. 92590 ; TOP YOKE, SINGLE SPEEDO ; £210 ( Speedo only)
PART No. 92591 ; TRIALS FORK TOP YOKE ; £220  ( Plain, no instruments)
PART No. 92513:TOP YOKE, ALLOY, CAFE RACER ; £210  ( Speedo, ammeter, key or voltmeter)
E-bay prices need to be way better than Hitch's. There is more risk involved as you're on the wrong end of a 12,000 mile supply chain with a low-cost bidder. Alan has more interest in keeping you happy.

Is this an AC or DC lighting system? Some LED headlights just need the proper voltage & don't care about AC vs. DC. LED is 0.2 x the draw of incandescent, so less load. You can always add a Radio Shack diode bridge if need be.

Glad you finally got to take the old girl out on a shakedown run, looking forward to more pix -

Best regards - ACR -

[Adrian II]

Going for a separate alloy yoke will improve the looks no end, but please don't spoil it with a cheap dangly headlamp mount, you could use a set of retro (enclosed) 50s headlamp brackets with it, Hitchcocks sell these as well.



https://accessories.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/accessory-shop/Headlight-Bracket-1950s-Bullet/18922

(Speaking of, does anyone have an ebay seller they particularly do or don't recommend using?), and I'll need a headlamp that suits the bill.

H's are expensive but usually pretty good, plenty of satisfied customers on here. If you're tempted to get stuff direct from India via ebay, quality really can vary enormously. I bought one of the cheaper alloy top yokes with the speedometer hole - junk, the machining was all off center and the threaded holes where the fork stanchions screw in were bored to different depths. Another supplier's product may or may not have been a lot better, depending on the machine shop.

Headlamp choice would probably involve some replica Lucas SSP700 headlamp with the ammeter and headlight switch plate (Indian copies of these are usually fine). The Lucas 5.75" headlamps as used on BSA Victor Specials and some off-road Triumphs would also be quite appropriate, though you'd have to rethink the switch-gear and probably lose the ammeter.

A.

[nonfiction]

Thanks ACR--I really appreciate your contributions here. Following up that Laubfrosch build. Quite inspiring!

On parts, Hitch is more than double the price on the top yoke, before shipping.  That said, I can see even in the ebay listings that quality on these parts is wildly variable. Bar clamp posts on one I looked at went in at very different angles. I'm hoping good seller feedback equates to a good experience. I have also posted a want ad in that section of this forum. I don't need perfect cosmetics but cannot abide poor function.

On seats, I have a few different possibilities in mind, going upward in cost as we move through the list: One being the repro Brit trials pastille like what was used on my inspo bike. I can find that for a bit more than $100. Another is this really tidy scrambler repro seat made for a BSA or Matchless. I like the line of this one. The third possibility I'm turning over in my head is a classic Bates solo type saddle (might eventually get a matching P-pad on the fender for an unlucky passenger). And the final seat that I've been eyeing is the classic Bates style desert model.

I expect I will hard mount whatever seat I end up with, as I do not vibe with the disconnectedness of the sprung saddle thus far.

Ordered a small tail light and an old style handlebar lever for the decompressor today. I'll be dispensing with the plastic switchgear and going minimal with wiring.

[nonfiction]

@Adrian, thanks for this. Conversation is swimming along nicely!

My current most likely headlamp scenario might ruffle some purists' feathers, but I *think* I will likely go for a post-mount Bates type 5.75" lamp, and fab a bracket to mount to the bottom triple. It's maybe a bit more bobber than ISDT, but it's clean and avoids the issue of finding/fabbing suitable ears to mount it.

[AzCal Retred]

If this is the Scrambler seat you looked at, that'd be my choice. Looks comfortable and roomy enough to move around on. As ddavidv so aptly phrased it, selling for "not horrible money". I'd probably give $160 for it at the end of the second hour aboard Red Oktobr...

https://www.feked.com/bsa-scramble-single-seat-a10ss-spitfire-scrambler-bsa-goldstar-scrambler.html
BSA Single Seat - A10SS Spitfire/Scrambler, Goldstar Scrambler 42-9210  OEM: 42-9210  £119.95 ( nominally $160 USD )

A post mounted light would do the trick. These things are always a work in progress anyway. Going to minimal electrics takes some planning - I have a preliminary wiring diagram if you're interested, give you some ideas anyway.

[nonfiction]

@ACR, thanks for the offer of the wiring diagram. I'll certainly take you up on that once I have headlight, taillight and top yoke in hand. Current plan calls for stripping just about everything electric: no starter motor, no turn signals, just horn (button on bar), hi/low beam (toggle on lamp housing), tail and brake lights. Deleting and/or hiding as many of the electrical bits as possible to clean the look up.

[AzCal Retred]

Here you go - gives you a place to start. Switch numbers are Hitchcocks part numbers. 
Multiple fuses are used to isolate circuits so "stoopid stuff" doesn't inconveniently stop the fun times.
All are automotive ATK or ATO type, 6 fuse block from NAPA for $10 - $15 bucks.
Spare slots can carry extra fuses.
- ACR -

[ddavidv]

"indicated 57 mph"
Indian built speedos are crap. Mine is nearly 10 mph off at 60. I find the optimism charming and inspiring.

[Adrian II]

@Adrian, thanks for this. Conversation is swimming along nicely!

My current most likely headlamp scenario might ruffle some purists' feathers, but I *think* I will likely go for a post-mount Bates type 5.75" lamp, and fab a bracket to mount to the bottom triple. It's maybe a bit more bobber than ISDT, but it's clean and avoids the issue of finding/fabbing suitable ears to mount it.

If you're thinking along those lines, maybe put together more of a street tracker? Apologies for the cr*p photo, but you could make a neat job of that. H's might even have a few more Fury top yokes left, though the alloy ones will have the thread for the normal Bullet fork stanchions.



The fork shrouds are just cut from 1.75" steel exhaust pipe tubing with RE Interceptor chrome trims to locate them at the top. I probably had a great-great grandmother who was scandalized by the sight of a bare piano leg somewhere. 

I managed to find one of these to fit the lamp, I think it was meant for a Triumph and needed a little work elongating the mounting hole to line up with the RE bottom yoke.



A.

[nonfiction]

Adrian II, that Fury top yoke sure is spicy. First I saw of that was in grumbern's trials build thread. Heavens it's a neat looking part.

I'm pretty stuck on the aluminum trials job, but I think the Bates light will look good with it (you have the right colorway here, black bucket/chrome ring).

I just ordered a seat, the topmost Wassell trials model from my list above. It was the cheapest, plus it fits the vibe I'm trying to build into this bike. Was afraid the bigger Feked/BSA one would be too big, visually, where I'm seeking a light and purposeful look.

Tires came in, so that'll be tomorrow, and a few other bits are on their way as well.

[Adrian II]

The alloy top yoke and speedo cup pretty much does the same thing in a slightly more streamlined fashion (there's also one sitting in the garage ready for my wife's Bullet project bike), I just fancied using something a bit different.

A.

[DavidGraves]

I just noticed this locally on CL :

https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/mpo/d/sherwood-royal-enfield-scrambler-trials/7179220648.html

In case anyone else wants to build a Trails type RE.

David Graves

[nonfiction]

Okay, I'm gearing up (heh) to pull the ES gubbins out of this little bike and pretty up the primary cases (just as soon as I can get my parts orders all firmed up). It is my understanding that I can either buy a new engine gear or chop the starter drive gear off the existing one.

My question is, I guess, is that three-up gear that's in there now one of the things that blows up when the sprag frags? If so I'll hang onto it to pass on to a sprag-frag victim, and plump for a new engine gear, £25 plus shipping from Hitch. If not, I'll just chop that sucker up on my buddy's lathe.

Or, maybe my understanding is skew on this and y'all can set me straight. Thanks for your thoughts either way.

[ddavidv]

Just remove the unneeded gear.

[AzCal Retred]

Nonfiction! How goes the battle? Starter de-fanged? What kind of seat did you end up with? What rear sprocket did you settle on, and how is it working on the trails? Are those 320 mm shocks doing the deed? New trials top yoke fitted up & sorted? Enquiring minds need to know... - ACR -