[Handirifle]

This first post is a test

[Handirifle]

Ok, tried yesterday, 3 times to start this thread, but they never posted.  Maybe there was a site glitch.  Anyway, onwards.

So I posted picks of my mock up build in "what did you do...." but will start it off right here.  I didn't want to keep clogging other threads with my build info.

First a couple pics of the emt mock up.  I did not think emt would be heavy enough walled, but wanted practice with my new tubing bender, before using the more expensive tubing.

[axman88]

Looks real promising.

It's sad that this seems to be the only way to get a rack big enough for some real carrying capacity for a lot of bikes in the USA market.  RE's seem far better served with aftermarket support for racks bigger than the postage stamp sized things they want to sell us nowadays.  I've been striking out looking for anything bigger than ~ 8 x 12" for the last 4 cruiser bikes I've looked at storage options for, 2 Honda Shadows, 1 Yamaha VStar, 1 Suzuki Marauder.

I think I'll also have to fab something.

EMT conduit is low carbon steel, optimized for easy bending.  Wall thickness of 1/2 is about .040, and as you know, it's pretty flimsy.  I've had satisfaction using 3/4" EMT for quick and dirty structural builds.  The bigger cross section really increases the section modulus, (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Section_modulus) and that plus the thicker ~.048 wall thickness seem sufficient for some decent load carrying capacity.  I would guess that 18 gauge (.049" wall) EW steel tubing, the commonest of which is 1008 carbon steel, would have sufficient strength, and you wouldn't need to go as thick as 16 ga, (.065" wall).  5/8" and 3/4" OD are also readily available.

Square tube is also nice, if you can bend it.

What equipment are you using to bend and weld, and how are you cutting the saddles for the round tube joints?

What finish are you planning?

[Handirifle]

I keep trying to post more, but for some reason it goes to blank pages and never uploads.  I will try more.

My bender is this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BNBBLR5X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 from amazon.  So far it has been great, when used with proper dies.  I have no die for conduit, for this machine.  I do have the long handle versions of 1/2 and 3/4" but they are are quite a bit more difficult, for me.

In this pic I am trying to show where the forward brace will be.

[Handirifle]

Good, that posted.  Its been real sketchy getting posts to go.

Here are the braces tacked, and then completed.

[Handirifle]

My welder is a 20+ year old Campbell Hausfeld mig welder.  99% of thr time I use only flux core wire.  Its cheaper and does what I need.  Its a lot messier but I am not the best welder in the world anyway, lol.

This is a trial mount to the pillion frame.  I drilled out the rear seep hole and installed a 6mm nutsert.

[Handirifle]

I will post pics of the bender mounted on the stand I built from mostly scrap I had laying around in my shop.  I had to purchase the vertical tube and top plate.  Total cost $11.

[Handirifle]

Axman
Sorry, forgot to answer one of your questions.  I plan on painting it.  We have one source of powder coat, and its 45 miles one way.  Not worth the drive.  Currently the rack is done.  Have 2 coats of primer on it now, and plan on about 3 coats of black gloss paint.

Here is a pic of the finished rack, welded and sanded, then with the primer on it.

[Handirifle]

Finally a promised pic of my tubing bender and stand.   Its a Vevor brand, as mentioned, off Amazon.  So far am very happy with it, BUT its my first real endeavor into tubing bending.  I know there are better ones out there, but this was at the top of my budget.

[Handirifle]

Ok made a little more progress.  Gettin closer to being done.

Made a clamp to hold the seat on to the pillion frame.  Since I installed the nutsert into the rear of this frame, I can no longer support the rear of the seat like I did have.    You can see in the pic I'll post.  Its the black piece towards the rear, where the frame curves.

Got the rack sanded and first coat of gloss black paint.  The plan is for 3 coats.  I also took a pic of the rear where the nutsert is installed.  This is for the forward support of the rear rack.

I also got the rear seat and frame mounted.

[Handirifle]

Forgot the rear pic.

[Handirifle]

Ok, so the rack is done.  I am already not 100% pleased.  The rack itself has flex, and the pillion frame flexes a bit, so overall the flexing might become an issue down the road.

I already think I have a solution, but I have other projects around the home thst are more pressing.  Anyway, I made a video of all the pictures using imovie, on my ipad.  A little hokie, but what the heck, it was fun.

https://youtu.be/7EUWf6JhGIo?si=0TlZL9dF8FYnsiG1

[Haggis]

I think it will fail pretty quickly.
The large overhang from the mounting points is going to be problem.
All the weight is behind the rear axle.
Better off to remove the passenger seat and shift you luggage carrying forwards a bit.
Unless you are carrying a passenger?

[Handirifle]

Well that was the whole point of the build, was to allow a passenger on without removing the rear seat.  I am not the least bit concerned where the weight is.  There really is not enough weight total to be an issue.  My Harley tourpak alone weighs over 50lbs, and it sits well behind the axle.  Even then they recommend a 30lb limit inside the tourpak.
About 90% of ADV bikes have the weight well behind the axle.

Its not the location, its the support.  Mine is not as strong as I had hoped.  Plus the design of the rear seat pillion allows it to flex as well.  The pillion frame is not as strong as I first believed, but neither is the tubing I used.  Stronger tubing will only make the pillion frame flex more.

I assume you did notice its not just bolted to the sides of the pillion frame, but to the rear also?    There are 3 mounting points.  I have also wondered about a brace coming from the side frame of the fenders, but am starting to think, they are probably not very strong either.  At least not designed for a load from that direction.

If moving it forward does not reduce the flex enough, I will be forced to go the route of seat removal, like you mentioned.  If I have to go that route, I think I can make it a one bolt removal setup for both the box and the seat.

But as I mentioned earlier, I have 2 other projects requiring my attention before I get back to this.  One is building a frame and covering our garden with chicken wire to keep squirrels and birds from eating our veggies before we do.  The other is replacing the over the air antenna on our RV that tree branches ripped off on our last trip out.  I then have to fabricate a guard to protect the new one, all before our upcoming rv trip at the end of the month.

Will update the post when I get started again on this.  My panniers are supposed to arrive sometime between Mar 26 and Apr 15, so I will have thos racks to build as well.

[Haggis]

I'm sure they used to mount a rear seat onto the rear fender or it's supports? Before they designed the rear seat frame. It would certainly make a handy point for a brace up to the rack?