Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet with the UCE engine => Topic started by: Gypsyjon on March 17, 2013, 11:54:33 pm
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This maybe an over the top request...nonetheless...
Would you experienced guys list what bolts for sure need to loctited? I know, all of them..but which ones specifically? I have done my tank bolts, shock bolts , mirrors and some other. Which are the ones that REALLY need to be done to avoid disaster out in the middle of no where, i.e south Georgia?
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Would you believe all of the bolts that don't have a self locking Nyloc style of nut on them.
That's the nut with a hump on top with some nylon in it.
Using blue locktight on these isn't needed if you haven't removed them. If you have removed them a few times the nylon will start to loose its interference with the threads so using some blue locktite on them is a good idea.
Notice that I keep saying BLUE Locktite. It won't totally lock the threads so if you want to remove the nut later you can.
The RED Locktite is the permanent kind that's made for assemblies that aren't normally taken apart.
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Don't forget the green wic-n-lok.
that stuff is great for nuts that are already assembled (like a new bike) it penetrates into the threads without needing to remove & replace the nuts.
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+1 to Arizoni & Gremlin :)
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Don't forget the green wic-n-lok.
that stuff is great for nuts that are already assembled (like a new bike) it penetrates into the threads without needing to remove & replace the nuts.
Torque specs need to be adjusted "down" when anti-seize compounds are used (I learned that on this very forum) - I wonder if the same is true when one coats threads with uncured blue locktite?
Might this be a good argument for the Gremlin's green wicking stuff? Torque the dry nuts and bolts to spec, then add the threadlocker?
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Hmmm. Used to use 3m 1300 Gasket sealer (Yellow Stuff) for holding already torqued nuts and bolts. It doesn't wick, but it sure holds.
Bare
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u guys must be reading the same article in recent cruiser magazine...u pretty much mentioned all of them as the article states on page 64 "thread sealer"... ;D
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I'll just leave this here................
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what's with the solder ? use that as anti-seize ?
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what's with the solder ? use that as anti-seize ?
I thought that was auto seize. Is that solder or safety wire?
I don't read cruiser mags, so it couldn't have come from there
Bare
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Safety wire? On a cruiser??? Is this some kinda weird new 'racing cruiser'? ;)
Scott
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Don't forget the green wic-n-lok.
that stuff is great for nuts that are already assembled (like a new bike) it penetrates into the threads without needing to remove & replace the nuts.
Okay...what is this stuff? When I google, there is one hit, which is right here. :( :(
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=green+loctite&l=1 ;)
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Scotty: Thanks for the self help..Green looks like the ticket, at least for the smaller threads/bolts...I went over the bike when I first got it and then after 3k and haven't lost a nut yet...I did use a small bit of loctite (non red) for some of them...Probably go over the bike carefully this season too....GM
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I generally torque engine bolts and a few other key things to spec. The rest of the bolts get a 'good-n-tight'. I'll use LocTite if something loosens more than once or if I think it's critical.
Scott
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=green+loctite&l=1 ;)
Gracias...never heard of Green Loctite before.
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I thought that was auto seize. Is that solder or safety wire?
I don't read cruiser mags, so it couldn't have come from there
Bare
Good catch.
Its a spool of stainless steel lock wire.
The web page on my laptop is our old forum here.
The pic is about the bare essentials for a Bullet owner. The pic is a little old.
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Gracias...never heard of Green Loctite before.
The 290 green is not for all applications. Read the recommendations carefully and use you best judgment.
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Loctiting seems to be the standard of care for RE's. Do you need power tools to take off any of these nuts/bolts?
I'm looking to do all of the basic/non-life-threatening maintenance to my bike so that leads to my next question. What are some must have tools for beginners?
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The blue kind is the basic one. It holds things on but can be disassembled with hand tools. The red requires heat or power tools to take apart. The green can be applied after assembly and just pulls itself into the threads by capillary action. There's another for nylon fasteners and I think a few more I've forgotten.
Scott
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The 290 green is not for all applications.
+1!!! Don't use #290 on anything you'd rather not take a torch to to get undone!!
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Loctite says Green requires common hands tools to disassemble, but may require localized heating to 500 F if the fastener won't budge. For Blue, Loctite says heat to 482 F if it won't budge! :o
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/T_LKR_BLUE_tds.pdf)
You can get the technical data sheets by looking up each product at the Loctite website and choosing "Technical Data" in that product description. Here's Green 290:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_green/technical-data/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_green/technical-data/Loctite-Threadlocker-Green-290.htm)
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Yes, yes. Always go by the loctite number not the color. There is at least two different compounds colored blue that i have used and two greens as well.
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Yes, yes. Always go by the loctite number not the color. There is at least two different compounds colored blue that i have used and two greens as well.
http://rc.runryder.com/helicopter/t642764p1/
Sounds right to me.
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The three little screws on the stock heat shield need to be loctited. Those actually hold the stock muffler on!
Bare
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Use the numbers if you want but I still go by the flavor.
Scott
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It tastes awful. :(
Blue will do 99% of what you need to do and come apart with regular hand tools.
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Obviously, you just haven't developed the sophisticated palette required to appreciate it. Keep at it, you will. ;)
Scott