Well...when the bike is running....it's not the battery which is the weak spot in the system...it is the alternator.
The "draw" from the heated gear, will "draw" from the battery...but the alternator will put the power back into the battery. If you draw more and faster than the alternator can replenish...you will slowly, or not-so-slowly kill the battery...
A low, or dead battery on a fuel injected (computer operated) bike is an ugly mess...it wont run right, or it won't run at all..
Just some fast and loose math...
The battery is rated at 12 amp hours.....this means you can draw one amp for 12 hours...or 12 amps for one hour, and the battery will not only be dead...but damaged...
Normally you should not drain more than 1/2 the capacity..this will bring the battery to the discharged state, but not "dead"
So you really have only 6 amp hours useful capacity....
A 75 watt device at 12 volts will draw 6.25 amps.....so the battery alone (not being charge by the alternator) will last less than one hour.....
Does the alternator have enough charging to replace this, along with running the lights, computer, injectors, etc?
I dunno....
high beam headlight 60 w
tail light 5 w
turn signal 10 w
That's 75 watts just there...
Plus add the computer, fuel injection, dash lights and whatever....
The alternator can only handle 156 watts (at idle)
So to run all the equipment plus 75 watts for a heated gear...you are at the limit..
Yes, at speed you may get a bit more out of the alternator...
But I would not add an additional 75 watt draw to the system....just me..
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Hopefully someone can enlighten me. What exactly is the theoretical problem with a 75w draw on the battery? I know next to nothing about electronics by the way. I couldn’t even tell you the difference between volts and amps. I guess I just don’t understand why they would make this stuff for motorcycle batteries to power them if it’s not feasible. Or is it just a matter of the RE 650 battery being insufficient in some way?