Author Topic: Speedo drive aggravation, questions  (Read 344 times)

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greekxj

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on: April 24, 2021, 11:14:06 pm
Hello everyone! Been forever since i posted but i still have my 07 barrel beast haha. Ok so i had my plastic speedo drive strip out the fitting that goes into it that also has the threads for the speedo cable. Anyway, im sure i could've rigged it up but i just ordered a direct oem replacement. I got it today, pulled the front wheel(first time for me on this bike) so i undid all things necessary and boom wheel is off. I cleaned things up while at it and it was time to get the new one on. Its keyed so i put it on etc. Got the wheel on bike , fastened it all, and hmm the speedo cable is not reaching the drive fitting. I'm scratching my head, wheel on and off several times, part on and off, moving things etc. I realized the drum side is keyed/slotted up for fork so that cant be rotated at all. I try tightening the drive in different positions while holding the drum side to keep from spinning and no matter what when the wheel was on the speedo drive was parallel with ground and i knew it should've been angled up slightly for the cable to attach. My brother came out just to help hold stuff etc and we just couldn't figure it out. Magically on one attempt it just went back together properly. I'm baffled and feel like a complete idiot here guys. Driving me nuts. I would simply have tried to rotate it up slightly to compensate for angle but the drum side spins as well and that's keyed up one way for fork. Any clue what i did wrong here? So frustrating.!!!   

Btw here she is :
« Last Edit: April 24, 2021, 11:17:47 pm by greekxj »


AzCal Retred

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Reply #1 on: April 25, 2021, 05:29:43 am
You need to pop off the wheel, then loosen the spindle nuts and line up the speedo drive business end with the brake slot lug, then tighten them down light snug. This for me points the drive about the right way to meet the cable. It's a bit fiddly to be sure.  :)
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greekxj

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Reply #2 on: April 26, 2021, 12:28:35 pm
Ok thank you , looks like I’m not super crazy . Talk about one thing that should only go on one way lol


StefArmstg

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Reply #3 on: April 27, 2021, 12:57:15 am
In the future if you have to take off either the brake or the speedo drive, mark them both with a felt marker before removing either one.  Mark the brake plate and hub at the same spot.  (Anywhere will do). Do the same thing on the speedo side. 

When you put it back together, line up the marks on brake and hub, and the marks on the speedo drive and hub. Then tighten the holding nut(s).  The speedo drive will be in the right place.
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greekxj

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Reply #4 on: May 01, 2021, 05:21:56 pm
In the future if you have to take off either the brake or the speedo drive, mark them both with a felt marker before removing either one.  Mark the brake plate and hub at the same spot.  (Anywhere will do). Do the same thing on the speedo side. 

When you put it back together, line up the marks on brake and hub, and the marks on the speedo drive and hub. Then tighten the holding nut(s).  The speedo drive will be in the right place.

Hello, thanks. Ok so that was an issue too. When i was messing around with it i did just that, but when it came time to tighten nut it would always come out of alignment no matter what  i did. Bro even held on to drum side while i tried snugging up drive side nut and it was always out of whack again. Any tricks to that? I have a new tire coming so it'll all be off again to do over, would like to knock it out first shot this time


AzCal Retred

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Reply #5 on: May 01, 2021, 06:23:07 pm
Yes....don't loosen the cone nuts... :o However, the stock brake shoes lack grip. Since you will already have it apart...? These Hitchcocks units are a real improvement, well worth the money:
PART No. 145585B ; F/BRAKE SHOE (7''), TWIN LEADING, **OUTRIGHT**, (PAIR) With locating ridge for pivot pin
These 7" shoes are used on twin leading shoe front brake systems. See ''Fitting Guide'' for details.
Some bikes have shoes without a locating ridge where they fit on the pivot pin. These shoes HAVE the locating ridge. See the associated alternative picture to help identify which type you require. If you need the type without the ridge, please order part number 144275B (Without locating ridge for pivot pin).
These improved brake shoes have new asbestos free linings, bonded onto them here in the UK. They bed in quickly to give a much improved braking performance in wet or dry conditions, eliminating the glazing and spongy feel of the standard linings. We are constantly testing new improved linings to optimise the braking system as much as possible.
A brace of 1999 Bullets: 1 Red Deluxe, 1 Green Standard. Also, 1 wee orphan 1956 Fire Arrow project.


greekxj

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Reply #6 on: May 04, 2021, 03:38:29 pm
Yes....don't loosen the cone nuts... :o However, the stock brake shoes lack grip. Since you will already have it apart...? These Hitchcocks units are a real improvement, well worth the money:
PART No. 145585B ; F/BRAKE SHOE (7''), TWIN LEADING, **OUTRIGHT**, (PAIR) With locating ridge for pivot pin
These 7" shoes are used on twin leading shoe front brake systems. See ''Fitting Guide'' for details.
Some bikes have shoes without a locating ridge where they fit on the pivot pin. These shoes HAVE the locating ridge. See the associated alternative picture to help identify which type you require. If you need the type without the ridge, please order part number 144275B (Without locating ridge for pivot pin).
These improved brake shoes have new asbestos free linings, bonded onto them here in the UK. They bed in quickly to give a much improved braking performance in wet or dry conditions, eliminating the glazing and spongy feel of the standard linings. We are constantly testing new improved linings to optimise the braking system as much as possible.


Awesome to know thanks! These brakes are pretty terrible. If i change them do i have to mess with the the dual adjustment rods on the outside of the drum or just pop in and set everything with cable? I probably have to scuff up the drum itself I'm guessing to go with new shoes right? If so any recommendations? thanks!


AzCal Retred

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Reply #7 on: May 04, 2021, 03:56:51 pm
A light scuff across the drums helps a bit. The linkage is probably fine - there are discussions about linkage adjustment here that can be searched. There will be some high spots, but you can just let them bed in over time unless you want to disassemble & take them down manually. The basic H's sticky shoe offers at least 50% better grab than stock, after bedded in of course. Mine took maybe 1,000 miles of riding, consciously using the front brake to get nice "solid" feeling, but there was a noticeable improvement from day one.
This tool : PART No. 98320 ; BRAKE SHOE EXPANDING TOOL ; £17.60 made removal & installation painless.
Make sure which pivot pin scheme your shoes use. The "ridge" is on the shoe and fits into a groove in the pivot pin, IF you have that style. You don't want to pay to ship them back, so check that out carefully.
The heavy duty front brake cable works a treat, save your old standard one for a spare.
A brace of 1999 Bullets: 1 Red Deluxe, 1 Green Standard. Also, 1 wee orphan 1956 Fire Arrow project.


Williteverbefixed

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Reply #8 on: June 03, 2021, 03:37:34 pm
Greekxj, yes i took the front wheel off to look at the terrible brakes having bought a 2001 version last month ,and refitting the wheel and tightening things up found the plastic speedo drive would not move to connect to the cable ?. I have had mostly Japanese bikes in the past and none bound up the speedo drive , so i ended up tapping it round to screw in the cable , Wierd !?
Yeah OK ?


greekxj

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Reply #9 on: June 10, 2021, 09:20:55 pm
Hey! Sorry just saw your response now. Yep def weird when coming from a non enfield bike but not an enfield lol. Ive had wheels off my other Japanese bikes in past and everything is set and keyed in, no questions about what goes where. I was really baffled by the speedo drive when i was buttoning things back up, just never knew it was that quirky. Ill be messing with it again when i decide to do my tires, fun fun haha