[N1ckelarse]

Ok so I just bought a 2022 Mr Clean (in Austin, TX), and did the first thing I would do to any bike - put nice new mufflers on and remove the snorkel, DNA filter etc. bike runs great, had it a week and already 200m on it.

Then I read about the Euro 5 thing (whatever that is), on the infamous Boosterplug post (every bike forum has one 😂) and not that I particularly want one - tried one before and ended up removing it - didn’t do anything as far as I could tell, and why run richer just for the sake of it. I spent years tuning my carb Bonnie and too rich wasn’t good. I also read on the Boosterplug website they cat supper 2021 onward bikes as the ECU will detect the tampering.

Got me thinking though - will the ECU on a Euro 5 still compensate for the increased air-flow?I don’t really want a Boosterplug anyway and as long as I’m not too lean without one then all good.  I presume yes, if it was a carb bike I’d know where I was…. Lol

Any advice gratefully received

Nick 

[Ruddigger]

I dont think the american 2022’s are Euro 5. Mine is Euro 4. You can tell by looking at the sticker on the ECU under the seat.

[N1ckelarse]

Ahh so this means Euro4 - so I could BP if I wanted and no engine light?

[Ruddigger]

Thats euro 4, yeah.

[N1ckelarse]

Ok but the BoosterPlug website doesn’t refer to euro 4/5, just says bikes 2021 and on. Does anyone have a 2021/22 bike with the BP? Any insight into this?

https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-2021_and_newer_bikes.html

[N1ckelarse]

Basically what I really want to know is am I ok with the snorkel delete on my 2022 GT 😊

[Starpeve]

Basically what I really want to know is am I ok with the snorkel delete on my 2022 GT 😊

Too lean’s never a good thing, especially in a hot climate.

[N1ckelarse]

So I got clarification from Boosterplug themselves - Euro4 will work fine - they seemed surprised that I had a ‘22 that was Euro4, but perhaps they underestimate the ability for the US to resist regulation…especially from the EU… and as a bike-riding Brit in the US, I’m kind of glad…

[CPJS]

I doubt the booster plug will do anything, the ECU will compensate for any difference (if any) in airflow. Until you change the headers there is no benefit in changing the end cans and filter.

[N1ckelarse]

I doubt the booster plug will do anything, the ECU will compensate for any difference (if any) in airflow. Until you change the headers there is no benefit in changing the end cans and filter.

Thanks - that’s really what I wanted to know - will the ECU  adjust.

Those stock cans are full of cat, and weigh a ton - I would have thought dumping those and the air intake would have at least some effect? Why would cussing the headers have an effect? Just curious,

Thanks

Nick

[RecoilRob]

The stock cans actually flow pretty well....biggest advantages with aftermarket exhaust is weight reduction as well as the cans run cooler minus the cats.   You still have cats in the bottom of the head pipes and the diameter does form a bit of a restriction as well so the exhaust flow is not greatly out of stock parameters with just aftermarket cans.   I do think you get a little midrange bump from can replacement but nothing really dramatic.

The 'snorkel' isn't really much of a restriction...more of a noise abatement device along with being a primary filtering obstruction that large particles won't be able to make the turn to get into the filter element.   A lower restriction filter with the stock snorkel also offers a little performance advantage but again nothing dramatic that the stock ECU cannot account for.

Going to large diameter head pipes....minus cats....does start to get things beyond what the stock ECU will play nice with and is also why most report adding the pipes didn't offer a noticeable performance gain, and my experience mirrors this.   Now with the PowerTronic ECU tuner and some judicious tweaking you can get the pipes to sing and a decent performance bump can be had.   The bike runs very nicely in this state and many would be very happy with the amount of power it makes, but if you want more then cam replacement is needed.   With more cam there's quite a bit more power to be had but then you're looking at extending the factory redline and airbox tuning changes to fully take advantage of them.   A fully snorted up 650 will run pretty strongly (enough to need more clutch holding power) so you've got lots of potential to play with in the future if you should want it.

[N1ckelarse]

The stock cans actually flow pretty well....biggest advantages with aftermarket exhaust is weight reduction as well as the cans run cooler minus the cats.   You still have cats in the bottom of the head pipes and the diameter does form a bit of a restriction as well so the exhaust flow is not greatly out of stock parameters with just aftermarket cans.   I do think you get a little midrange bump from can replacement but nothing really dramatic.

The 'snorkel' isn't really much of a restriction...more of a noise abatement device along with being a primary filtering obstruction that large particles won't be able to make the turn to get into the filter element.   A lower restriction filter with the stock snorkel also offers a little performance advantage but again nothing dramatic that the stock ECU cannot account for.

Going to large diameter head pipes....minus cats....does start to get things beyond what the stock ECU will play nice with and is also why most report adding the pipes didn't offer a noticeable performance gain, and my experience mirrors this.   Now with the PowerTronic ECU tuner and some judicious tweaking you can get the pipes to sing and a decent performance bump can be had.   The bike runs very nicely in this state and many would be very happy with the amount of power it makes, but if you want more then cam replacement is needed.   With more cam there's quite a bit more power to be had but then you're looking at extending the factory redline and airbox tuning changes to fully take advantage of them.   A fully snorted up 650 will run pretty strongly (enough to need more clutch holding power) so you've got lots of potential to play with in the future if you should want it.

That’s perfect - just what I wanted - thanks

Nick

[whippers]

S&S have the dyno charts to show the improvement you get with their slip-ons in the midrange.  No more peak power as the headers are the rate determining step. From what I've seen you have to spend mega bucks to make significantly more power and even then it isn't that much.  If you don't worry too much about the stock performance (or have other bikes that scratch that itch) when less weight, better noise and desire to customise are all good reasons to change the silencers.  Depending on your choice you may also get a a few more herbs in the midrange.  Once you go beyond larger headers you start to need different ECUs and then you can put in a cam but you probably should increase the compression etc..

My 2 cents

The levels that makes sense in ascending cost and performance are (each step additive):

1) Stock
2) Silencers / Air-filter / Snorkel removal
3) Larger bore headers (Best bang for buck)
4) ECU / Cam / High Comp pistons
5) 865 kit

Once you hit 5 there isn't much point in doing it unless you also do front and rear suspension and at least brake pads or Brembo RCS master cylinder. At this point I would have bought a Triumph Speed Twin. I'm currently at level 2 planning on 3 at some point likely stop there from a performance perspective

[N1ckelarse]

S&S have the dyno charts to show the improvement you get with their slip-ons in the midrange.  No more peak power as the headers are the rate determining step. From what I've seen you have to spend mega bucks to make significantly more power and even then it isn't that much.  If you don't worry too much about the stock performance (or have other bikes that scratch that itch) when less weight, better noise and desire to customise are all good reasons to change the silencers.  Depending on your choice you may also get a a few more herbs in the midrange.  Once you go beyond larger headers you start to need different ECUs and then you can put in a cam but you probably should increase the compression etc..

My 2 cents

The levels that makes sense in ascending cost and performance are (each step additive):

1) Stock
2) Silencers / Air-filter / Snorkel removal
3) Larger bore headers (Best bang for buck)
4) ECU / Cam / High Comp pistons
5) 865 kit

Once you hit 5 there isn't much point in doing it unless you also do front and rear suspension and at least brake pads or Brembo RCS master cylinder. At this point I would have bought a Triumph Speed Twin. I'm currently at level 2 planning on 3 at some point likely stop there from a performance perspective

Thanks appreciate the reply I’m at 1&2 and the rest of the mods will be cosmetic. I have my carbed Bonnie which has been tweaked to death if I want a bit more power, but the GT is so nimble and fun to ride, it needed a bit more poke but it’s pretty good really.

I may do 3 at some point

Thanks again,

Nick

[beagle]

The booster plug isn't a performance item, it only allows a bit richer when needed during the cycle. They only make the bike run a bit smoother, not faster. If anything, you may get a bit of mid range torque increase.   The changes are with the locked ECU (Euro5) not the model tear being released in your particular country.