[Carl Fenn]

I have a 2020 bullet and was thinking when run in switching to fully synthetic oil, does anyone have any thoughts or experience running fully synthetic on this bike.

[GSS]

I will work well. Absolutely no negatives. I have used only synthetics on all my cars and bikes for the past 2 decades.

[Carl Fenn]

Yes l think l will try it when run in, l have used in cars in the 90s they got up to astronomical mileages got no engine trouble at all, mind you RE does not recommend fully synthetic l don’t know why.

[GSS]

I usually stay away from the best oil discussions, but I have used Amsoil in all REs from the very first oil change, and also immediately after any piston/cylinder modifications…..everything comes out looking pristine. Any synthetic motorcycle oil that meets RE specs should be fine.

[richard211]

Yes l think l will try it when run in, l have used in cars in the 90s they got up to astronomical mileages got no engine trouble at all, mind you RE does not recommend fully synthetic l don’t know why.

 The oil RE recommends in India, has to meet the the JASO MA2 standards. The JASO MA2 is used to ensure that it enables the clutch to have a better bite (more friction) if you use generic engine oils meant for cars in the RE the clutch will tend to slip and have a sloppy engagement especially in heavy start stop traffic . When substituting other oils just make sure its safe for the catalytic converter (if it has not been removed).

 If the catalytic convert is removed a better option is to use performance engine oils, that contain ZDDP which helps increase the life of engine components especially the cams and lifters.

[GSS]

Good points. The usual Amsoil and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils sold in the US meet all these requirements, so no worries there.

[Carl Fenn]

Well sounds good at next service l will certainly switch to fully synthetic oil but wait until run in is completed.

[Morgan65]

Yes, the never ending discussion on what’s the best oil to use.  My experience is the motor needs to be made for  synthetic oils. If you put synthetic oil in one that isn’t designed for it it will start leaking oil, again in my experience. On my 2007 AVL and my 2010 UCE Bullet 500s, I use none synthetic Chevron Delo SAE 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil.  It has more detergents in it. Now the motors are well broken in I get   85 mpg and up. On the newer REs I use what ever is called for in the owner manual a synthetic blend.

[AzCal Retred]

Mobile 1, 15W/50, $24 for 5 quarts @ Walmart, oil & filter every 2,000 miles. But even a good oil will still get sucked thru a loose intake valve guide & plate out on the spark plug.   
It also gets a dose of "TB Zinc" & Marvel Mystery Oil about every 1,000 miles because "It couldn't hoit", right? Better living thru Chemistry...

[Carl Fenn]

Yes good point, that’s probably why RE won’t recommend it, but in saying that it’s a 2020 so l think l will try it when it’s run in, of course diesel oil is a good bet, l used to be an HGV driver we used to run those engines over 200 thou on it very good oil indeed, l get over 90 MPG on my bullet which l think is exceptional in its self like riding a moped again, certainly a big change from BMW which l have been used to for the last 25 years, the Enfield is as cheap as chips l would describe it as an ultimate green machine with good performance for the urban environment keeps up to everything, glad l bought the right bike simple engineering just like the 70s.

[Carl Fenn]

The Mobil 1 is a good bet l used that in my Nissan in the 90s it covered 179000 miles and was still running perfect when l sold it, at first l thought it was a gimmick but got proved wrong that sunny and the bluebirds were the best cars l owned in my whole life ultra reliable l used to do 4,000 miles tours in them none stop without a hitch pity they don’t make cars like that anymore, what exactly is this mystery oil l have read about it some where?

[Morgan65]

I’ve had friends that use Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank, they say it helps by giving it a little bit more top end lubrication for better mpg. I have used it briefly, two months and not found this to make any difference in the mpg.

[Richard230]

I used Mobil 1 oil in my daughter's 1990 Suzuki GS500EL. One time while she was at college the poor bike went for 12K miles before I had a chance to change the oil. It came out in lumps, but it didn't seem to make any difference to the life of the engine. When she sold the bike 5 years after buying it new, it had 85K miles on the clock.

However, I have heard that the current Mobil 1 oil formula is not the same as it used to be, likely due to the additive restrictions on oil due to the requirements of catalytic converters. 

[Bilgemaster]

I used Mobil 1 oil in my daughter's 1990 Suzuki GS500EL. One time while she was at college the poor bike went for 12K miles before I had a chance to change the oil. It came out in lumps, but it didn't seem to make any difference to the life of the engine. When she sold the bike 5 years after buying it new, it had 85K miles on the clock.

However, I have heard that the current Mobil 1 oil formula is not the same as it used to be, likely due to the additive restrictions on oil due to the requirements of catalytic converters. 

Last I looked on the Mobil1 website their "automotive" 15W50 synthetic was down to about 1,200 ppm (parts per million) of zinc. That's maybe not a big deal with UCEs, but my primitivo Iron Belly's flat tappets seem to like just a bit more zinc or ZDDP cushioning the racket. I've been led to understand that something around 1,500 ppm or better is desirable in older breeds. So, I add about 2 ounces of that Lucas TB-Zinc Plus goop at each oil change, and she seems so happy with that cocktail that I haven't actually needed to adjust the tappets in well over 12,000 miles, or since I started spoon-feeding that Lucas goop to her. Of course, the newer UCE breed, with its primary sharing the rest of the engine's oil, may well prefer Mobil1's pricier V-Twin blend (about $7 a quart). Last I looked it held about 1,700 ppm zinc, and although not JASO certified to play well with clutches, I hear it does just fine with them. As for my Iron Barrel with its separate primary, I just run Type F Automatic Transmission Fluid in there and also in the forks, with synthetic SAE 90 GL-4 gear oil in her 5-speed gearbox (AMSOil brand, which I happen to have around for my Amphicar), though any good GL-4 will do. I'd avoid GL-5 rated, since some brands' phosphorous-based anti-impact additives can be pretty caustic to those copper or brass bits in older boxes.

[Carl Fenn]

Yes l agree oils have become a complex science, it pays to do research engines and boxes are not cheap components to replace the oil is the life blood of any bike.

[9fingers]

Mobile 1 20-50 Twin for air cooled engines. It is designed specifically for the big swings in air cool engine temp. I have used it for 10,000 miles on my 500. This and Amsoil are perhaps the best, though there are MANY very good oil brands out there. Mobile 1 V Twin is available at Walmart also.
9fingers