[Hillbillythumper]

There is no error message save for faulty CKP but that was from months ago and without the expensive software cannot be wiped from memory. No other codes. Engine fault lamp not lit. Will pull the tank (damn) and check voltage to coil tomorrow.

[Freddy1]

If with the new alternator there is no more spark, the new Crank Position Sensor may not work properly. We should check if there is a signal from the CPS.

[Haggis]

You can clear old codes,

The MIL (Engine Light) performs three functions:
   A) When the key is switched “ON” the first (and hopefully ONLY) illumination verifies the ECU is booting up, and then goes “off”. The engine is then ready to start.
   B) If it illuminates and remains “on” before or during a ride it indicates a fault and corrective action is necessary.
   C) When troubleshooting with the engine “off”, if it illuminates again after a few seconds it will provide a series of Long and Short blinks to indicate a service code for troubleshooting. (Refer to the Troubleshooting section of the MM for what the codes represent.)
   NOTE: There may be more than one issue (code), but the ECU will only show the latest code.

Once a service code is determined and (hopefully) resolved:
1.   Ground diagnostic wire (the single wire with a female bullet connector next to the ECU) to a clean part of the chassis, or to the Negative side of the battery.
2.   Set the kill switch to the run position.
3.   Hold the throttle fully open.
4.   Turn the key on. MIL light will illuminate for a few seconds.
5.   As soon as the MIL light goes out (NOT before), and before the MIL comes on again, release the throttle.
6.   There will be a couple fast blinks after that to let you know the code(s) are cleared.

   Now run the engine. If no Codes are present ride the bike and monitor the MIL for any further codes. The MIL will illuminate and remain steady if any further faults appear.

Have you checked the sidestand switch?
If in doubt just unplug it's connector.
Also the kill switch. You need to check for continuity through the switch, otherwise,  NO spark.

[Hillbillythumper]

Thanks Haggis. My Hanes manual is lacking in much information. The motor cranks. If sidestand is down it will not crank. I cleared the CKP code as you said and cranked the engine. Still no spark. No codes show up either. Manual gives no CKP test save for resistance. Can it be dynamically tested?

[Hillbillythumper]

The thing about all these plastic connectors is that they get very brittle in cold weather. It is cold here. As soon as I pressed the catch securing the cpu the thing just broke off. Ugh.

[Hillbillythumper]

Ok I found on the web how to check a CKP with multimeter. I managed a dynamic test with the starter. I showed .9 volt output so it seems the sensor is working.
Kill switch has continuity.

[Haggis]

Not much left to check.
Coil would have be next on the list.
Coil check,
Resistance across,
a. Between Brown to Red/white 4 to 8
ohms.
b. Between Brown to HT lead 12.5 to 16
Kilo Ohms.

[Hillbillythumper]

Pulled the tank. Resistance between brown to red/white 5 ohms. Resistance twixt brown and plug lead 17.6 kilo ohms. While cranking the voltage between the feed wires to coil connector is zero.
However, with ignition on voltage between blue feed and ground is 5.3 volts. Between red wire and ground is 11.5 volts ignition on but not cranking.

[Haggis]

The coil is fed from the power relay along with the ecu and the pump relay.
As far as I can figure out, the ecu is an earth switch for the other coil connection.
So, ignition on should see battery voltage at one of the coil connectors. The other is a switching earth controlled by the ecu, pin 18.

[Hillbillythumper]

If I understand how a coil works it seems like the one lead should have battery voltage but the other lead should go to earth. Why would it show 5 volts to earth continuously?

[Hillbillythumper]

Getting the impression my ECU is junk.

[Freddy1]

I say right away that this is not a joke: you can check empirically if the CKP is working by listening to the noise of the petrol pump.

When everything is ok after the power-on you will hear the noise of the petrol pump for about 3/4 seconds and then the pump stops. Subsequently, the petrol pump resumes operation when the engine rotate. It is the CKP that signals to the ECU that the engine rotate.

Example: if I disconnect the spark plug in my Bullet EFI and try to start with the kick-start obviously the engine does not start but I hear the noise of the fuel pump which starts and then stops immediately and restarts every time I activate the kick start.
If I also disconnect CKP I hear the noise of the pump at power-on but I no longer hear it when I activate the kick-start.

ps: the wiring diagram posted by Haggis is for euro 3 does not correspond to your bike which should be euro 4.

[Haggis]

I forgot that.
Yes as Freddie says, If you switch on  the ignition and turn the engine by kick-start,
 you should hear the pump run for a few seconds every time the crank passes TDC.

Also, although my diagram is for euro3, your coil is still wired up the same and works the same.

You also mentioned that you are reading 11.5v on the red wire? (battery voltage)
11.5 is a flat battery
You need to be seeing over 12.5.
Euro4 looks like,

[Hillbillythumper]

Thanks Freddie 1, will make this test this pm.
Yes Haggis, put the battery on the charger all night. Thanks.

[Hillbillythumper]

Well Haggis and Freddie 1 I had to work so didn’t get the tank on for the CKP test. I did charge my battery and got the following voltages:
Key off.
Battery voltage =12.78 V.
Key on and lights on.
Red wire to coil to earth 11.75V.
Blue wire to coil to earth 5.25 V.
Blue to red 0.0V.
Doesn’t seem right.