[grumbern]

Tanks, I absolutely wanted this kind of axle als these have that gorgeous artistic old time look

You might remember that broken securing ring of the rear wheel.
To repair it, I first drilled our the old bolt (worked perfectly on the lathe) and brazed in a new one:


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Figured the primary case studs were just the right size and thread. After bead blasting and some paint it's ready for use again:


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I allso drilled the broken off piece out of the nut. Whoever wanted to know, how a cleaned out thread looks like, is welcome


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Back in the rear wheel where it belongs:


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So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

Now it was time to start with the seat:


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Lookin good already. now it needs the edges folded in and some mounting points.
For the rear mount of the seat I made another beam and welded it to the sub frame:


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The before made blocks of Aluminium bolted on:


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Filed to fit the seat and welded to the same:


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Now it needs upholstering, but all at it's time
So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

One thing I dind't have in mind, was the main shaft. My gearbox originally was off a 500 twin, with a considerably longer main shaft. Unfortunately I only recognized this issue trying to mount the clutch. Marked on the rod is the length of the twin main shaft, compared with an Indian made:


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I still had this indian made main shaft lying around, manufacturer unknown. In hindsight, I should have dumped this one and taken a branded one. These no-name parts are a really bad fit!
That aside, Indian shafts are made for metric bearings, British ones are imperial. I didn't want to change anything on the gearbox housing. So the plan was adjusting the shaft from 17mm to 5/8".
First check runout:


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At first turning went pretty well, until the last few tenths. Probably the shaft was too hard. One part of the shaft was within specs, and another still 1/10mm above! So what could I do? Improvise!


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One can easily spot the high areas:


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No bashing please! This isn't what you might call ideal, but it worked

Taking measurements - they meet the specs:


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I also had to adjust the length and the shaft profile. As mentioned before, this was a very bad fit. The clutch center also needed a bit of persuasion to take it's place. Well, let's see. I just hope it won't desintegrate


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So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

Before you fall asleep:
Did some work on the clutch. It seems I was delivered push rods for the 4-plate clutch and these are too long for the 350 3-plate clutch. So I shortened and re-hardened the rod. For that I heated the tip to aprox. 700°C and dipped it in oil. The file test was positive and asured full hardness. So I tempered it again at about 300°C. Now the fila has some grip again, but you can still feel the hardness. I would guess about 50HRC, which is good against wear


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Then the clutch received someimprovements . Besides a new set of friction and steel plaes, allso a needle roller bearing. Together with the two balls there shouldn't be any significant friction and in trial use there will probably be a lot of clutch use


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Such bearings are available commercially, but they are about 30€. The AXK0515 is just a thenth in a set of two with the fitting thrust washers
Dimensions with just one thrust washer are the same as standard and are a direct fit. The clutch pad should be hard enough, so no second thrust washer should be needed there.

Everything assembled again:


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So long,
Andreas

[AzCal Retred]

Always a learning experience watching you fabricate - Thanks for sharing! - ACR -

[grumbern]

Received a package from the Netherlands:


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So I could fabricate some of the cables and mount the tank. Now I was able to start the Laubfrosch for the first time! In this video the ignition adjustment wasn't active, so it was running at full retard. This way the engine is loud, runs unsteady and spitts flames. Who cares, it runs! 

https://youtu.be/AizhZC8Hnkk


So long,
Andreas

[Adrian II]

That special moment...  Well done!

A.

[grumbern]

Still a long way, but an important step has been taken.

Almost as important is the brake.
As the lugs on the fork tubes for mounting the mudguard, as well as the brake cable were missing on this particular set I used (they wouldn't do for a restoration project anyway), I had to get creative.
I let myself be inspired by the J2 Bullet and made a similar bolt:

Planed the first side and turned the outside diametre, as well as the grooves for the brake shoes:


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Fits perfect!


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And the other side turned with a radius at the end, ready for turning the thread (5/8-BSC):


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Comparison old vs. new:


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And here it was: Too short!
I didn't think about the fixing nut, that wouldn't leave enough space for the knurled nut of the brake adjuster...
So back to start! That's why in the next picture it is longer, but with a fittting bore, a flat and the grooves for the knurled nut:


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On the other side there's a notch for guidance of the adjuster, made with a dull chissel:


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Just perfect!


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Here it is with the cable:


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And since I felt there hasn't been a picture in the whole for a longer time now:


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So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

Last weekend I finally managed to reweld the exhaust pipe.
The reason was, that there was no good way to mount the silencer as it was:


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Obviously this would have looked ridiculous, especially the end pipe.
So I cut the header pipe and lowered it a bit using a piece of straight tubing.


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After I tack welded it, everything looked fine but after welding, it had a downwards kink and fouled the engine housing. So I had to bend it a bit using my Acetylene torch, as you can notice by the dark colour in the bend.
Now I can start working on the real silencer and get rid of the cardboard dummy
So ,long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

I went on a bit more.
First cut some sheet metal:


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Not bad for a hand bend 


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This might do!


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Next will be the internals.
So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

So let's first weld the outside of the can:


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This time, thanks to thorough preparation with file and Acteone, but especially a more aggressive welding style with more power and speed, even the root turned out nicely:


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And allso I did the recess for the filler bolt:


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Step by step, but the shop's getting uncomfortably hot...
So long,
Andreas

[grumbern]

Still anybody here?

[Adrian II]

I think I'M still here! 

Pressing affirmation button in 3, 2, 1, BEEP!

Seriously, it's coming on great.

My own 350 project is still a little while off. It's for my wife, ostensibly, hence the low seat, but if she doesn't get on with it a SUPPOSE I might keep it.  Say hello to ASBO45 or Not A Westerner.



Allowing for the addition of lights and a different exhaust, the inspiration was one of Hitchcocks' Instagram archive photos of a genuine 350 Westerner, which I hope they won't remove.

 

A.

[grumbern]

Thanks Adrian for your reply. I almost thought I was talking to my own again
The Not-a-Westerner's coming along. A Bates saddle might look a bit less clunky thoug, and add to the American style, don't you think?

So here we go with -as promised- the "intestins".

For that I first reactivated my punch and fabricated a second screen pipe. That really was fun and I actually was kind of sad when it was finished


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With this and four end plates, the ingredients for the internals were complete:


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then combine the two bent Aluminium sheets:


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Attach the endplates:


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Now you can see how the silencer will work:


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And a view into the silencer put together:


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Appart from some minor constructive errors, all fits together quite well and I am convinced, the silencer will do a good job. But I'll only know for sure, once everything is welded up and taken for a test
So long,
Andreas

[richard211]

Still anybody here?

 I am here too, I enjoy reading about your build.