Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Iron Barrel => Topic started by: little_a_o on August 04, 2007, 02:41:26 am
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I am assured that transmissions often get worse in the first few hundred miles, and will be adjusted by the shop doing the 500 mile service. I would be checking levels, making sure the supposed lube was there. I am totally unfamiliar with the 5 speed, so cannot help you with it.
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One easy thing you can check is for hidden slack in the cable. Check up on the handlebar at the clutch lever by firmly grasping the clutch cable (outer sheath) and pull/push it very firmly to see if there is slack (e.g., does it move significantly in and out of the lever). If so, adjust at the lever.
If there is hidden slack it's equivalent to screwing in the lever adjustment too far and the clutch not fully disengaging. Mine, for example, would not come out of neutral into second.
Matt
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I am assured that transmissions often get worse in the first few hundred miles, and will be adjusted by the shop doing the 500 mile service. I would be checking levels, making sure the supposed lube was there. I am totally unfamiliar with the 5 speed, so cannot help you with it.
Really? Mine got a lot better with miles. Although I get a false neutral between 3rd and 4th sometimes, i chalk it up to user error though. You have to shift like you mean it, even with the 5-speed.
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Though mine is an older 4 speed, I had a similar experience when I bought it - the gears would not find 3rd, changing down, and would slam into 2nd - not good if traveling fast and needing to slow down. I took it back to the dealer I got it from and they fixed it - they told me it had been badly adjusted... Whatever they did changed the nature of the machine completely - it is a positive gear changer now, with no missed gears.
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Another little trick to smooth out shifting is to blip the throttle while clutching to match engine and transmission speeds while going down the gears. In a race car, it's called heel/toe shifting and the idea (in a car) is to brake with the big toe of your right foot, then angle your heel over to the gas pedal to rev the car at the same time as you push in the clutch, shift down, and then re-engage the clutch. It's way easier on a bike. Brake with two fingers, pull in the clutch lever, blip the throttle up about 500 revs or so at the same time as you're shifting down, then release clutch. Repeat down through the gears. It's a whole lot easier to do than it is to describe! The whole process takes about 1 second. Forgive me if you already know this, but for those who don't it can be a big help. This technique also allows you to maximize the use of engine braking.
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300 + miles on an Electra 5 speed.. notchy n shifting.. bike wasn't set up at dealer.. will rereport when the temps N the garage get below 100 degrees and every thing is done right
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On occasion when I come to a stop the engine is still rev'd up. This has been happening since the 125 mile mark as best I can tell. All the throttle twisting, carb tapping I do has no effect. I did however notice that on all occasions if I cycle the choke on and off it will reset itself back down to normal idle.
Experiences?
I find that the choke (Micarb) will stick just a little sometimes. I've got into the habit of pushing down on the top instead of using just the lever.
You might also want to lube the advance, sometimes it will stick and then it will take awhile to idle down.
Leonard
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Mine was doing that at around 1200 miles but it went away by itself before I got around to trying to find the problem. Mine would start to rev up after it was warm while sitting at traffic lights.
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I heard all of the horror stories when I got my new Military and put a side car on it the first time without breaking it in. I assembled the side car and attached it myself with no difficulty and got the alignments right the first time. I haven't had to change or adjust anything with the sidecar since I bought it. I did, however, install a seventeen tooth countershaft sprocket and heavy duty clutch springs to make my bike more compatible with the mountain roads where I live. In the beginning I had some problems with missed shifts and false neutrals but I was told by a friend that I should drive it like I meant it and so I ran the "P" out of it up and down the mountain roads, around corners going up and down in the gears and my bike came along beautifully. I treated it like I was racing, reving the engine slightly just before each shift to match RPMs between the rear wheel and the engine and the shifting problems disappeared. Also I found that it helps to have a positive load on the wheels when shifting. In other words you have to be moving under power. It is damnably difficult to shift while standing still between any gear except first and neutral.. If you approach a stop in second gear, make sure you shift into neutral before you stop. Other wise you might not be able to shift into first to start up again. Occasionally you might have to down shift to first and then back up into neutral
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The pictures are great in this thread. If we take the time to name the pictures with a descriptive name it will make the search function work better for others. It takes an extra minute, but does help.
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It looks like those shock mounts are missing some washers or something.
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That should never happen on anything. Is this an issue for others? Is it missing washers? I agree, it looks to be missing washers & almost missing the suspension.
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I've received a set of washers along with a set of internal lock washers to "fix" the shock problem. Unfortunately, it did not close the large gap shown in the above pics.
Is it possible that the bushing (black rubber) was installed in the wrong sequence?
If anyone has a picture of their lower shock attach points to show me Id appreciate seeing the correct installation.
Thanks.
Here are some pictures I just took of my '04 Sixty-5, sorry it's is so dirty. If you need anything additional or these aren't large enough let me know and I can email them off forum.
==Leonard
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thanks Leonard.
Is the washer that is sitting just under the nut of larger diameter than the shock openning? If so, that could very well be what is wrong with mine.
I didn't post new pictures of mine with the added washers because it would appear just like my earlier pictures.
little ao
There are two washers, a flat one and a lock washer. They are both just large enough to slip over the mounting stud. The flat washer is not large enough so that the rubber bushing could get around it, if that is what you are asking.
I wonder if you are just going to have to replace the bushings?
..Leonard
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I think you should pull the shock off and reinstall the rubber bushings. The bushing should fit in the shock and have a small lip that protrudes on each side of it, there is often a steel "pipe" that goes through the bushing and through that "pipe" goes the mounting bolt or stud. It will be much easier to get the bushings reinstalled with the shocks off. If a lubricant is needed use something like Armor-all, petroleum by-products like grease or oil will deteriorate the rubber. The outer flat washer should be of a large enough diameter that the shock can not slide past it.
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that 2nd pic looks like you have a leaking head gasket, just like mine.
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Be sure you are running your oil level between the L and the H and not all of the way full. You MAY find that running it slightly lower will end the consumption - or not
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1500 Mile report
1) starts and runs great.
2) Ref: Oil loss thread earlier reported:
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,175.msg2545.html#new
As reported in the above link I thought I had solved this problem by re-torquing the head. Unfortunately, after returning from a most recent 120 mile ride at 70 to 75 mph I had to add 1/2 a pint.
Running at 70-75 for that distance on machine with only 1500 miles I would be surprised if it didn't use at least half a pint. Slow down to a more reasonable 50-55 and see if your oil consumption doesn't improve.
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Running at 70-75 for that distance on machine with only 1500 miles I would be surprised if it didn't use at least half a pint. Slow down to a more reasonable 50-55 and see if your oil consumption doesn't improve.
Yep, I read the oil level suggestion somewhere else on the board and I did do just that.
Might you have an idea when its a good time (miles) to run it up to 70 or 75?
I still have the one vent line plugged as I received the machine from dealer; is it possible that this could be contributing to the extra oil leaking?
I would only go up to 70 for a very short burst and then back it down. From what I have seen and read running at sustained max speeds the engine is sure to blow, they just aren't made for that kind of work.
Are you getting oil showing up someplace, rear wheel, around the cylinder head or is it just dissapearing? Have you asked the dealer about the plugged vent line or the excess oil use?
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I wish I could say it was from one specific place, but its seems to be everywhere. Oil can be found on the fins, pushrod cover, timing case, etc.. - it of course gets blow back onto tool chest and right pannier. Some oil is sprayed on left pannier by not as much as the right side.
I guess I'll hold off switching to synthetic until I get this squared away.
In the mean time I'm going to enjoy it.
Offices row at Fort Hancok, Sandy Hook NJ (Be sure to click the rectangle in the lower right corner of the picture frame so it fills your screen.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml9PvRAJ3cY
Well it sure sounds nice anyway. From what you disscribe I would say you have a head gasket leak.
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Well it sure sounds nice anyway. From what you disscribe I would say you have a head gasket leak.
I agree.
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I wish I could say it was from one specific place, but its seems to be everywhere. Oil can be found on the fins, pushrod cover, timing case, etc.. - it of course gets blow back onto tool chest and right pannier. Some oil is sprayed on left pannier by not as much as the right side.
I guess I'll hold off switching to synthetic until I get this squared away.
In the mean time I'm going to enjoy it.
Have you tried re-torquing the head to see if that would stop the gasket leak?
--Leonard
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Bout all I can say about the trannys is to break them and adjust the clutch while doing it. The bike wasn't meant to speed shift so slow and delibrate is the way to go. Blipping the throtle helps on downshifting and using a mix of 90wt and the grease thats already installed helps. Patience is needed.........dg
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On a hot day (80F +) and going on a day trip of about 100 miles, my Sixty-5 uses several ounces of oil. No more than 60 MPH indicated.
It is broken in correctly so I'm assuming this is my bike's individual usage. And there are no leaks or oil spots on the floor when parked.
I think having a plugged breather system would force more oil past the rings because of too high crankcase pressure. The factory engineering is best not altered unless one is doing major modifications - this brings out the motorcycle gremlins big time.
Regards, Foggy
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When judging the amount of oil you are using be sure that you are not compulsively filling it up to the H mark each time you check. If these bikes are the slightest bit overfilled they will use oil. The proper procedure to check the oil on your bike is to run it for a couple of minutes and then shut it off. Remove and clean the dip[stick and then reinsert if and SCREW IT ALL OF THE WAY BACK IN. Then remove it again and check the level. Run them between the L and the H, not all of the way up to the H. Running them hard will cause them to use more oil. I would not consider your reported speeds as running it hard assuming it is a broken in bike (which I understand that it is). A plugged breather system can cause this and it is easily fixed by blowing out the lines. Another place to check is to make sure that oil hasn't gotten into your air filter.
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RE1,
That's how I check mine. I keep it right in the center between L and H. When it starts to migrate toward L, I put in no more than 1 ounce at a time to bring it back to center. Sometimes it takes 2 ounces as measured on the oil bottle graduated side indicator.
I check it EVERYTIME before I ride on a new day. About half the time it doesn't need any oil - on real hot days is when it seems to use a little.
There is a lot of heat radiating off that single cylinder jug and heat equates to energy conversion. It's almost as if it should put out more horsepower than rated. The cam timing, exhaust and intake restriction limits the RPM, but torque is readily apparent.
The classic hemi-head and valve angle of the iron Bullet engine seems better suited for free breathing than the narrow valve angle Electra engine - in my intuition. The Electra is for emissions control - you guys already know this!!
Regards, Foggy
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I've had a few problems with that harness as well. I finally ended up replaceing all the connectors with a slightly higher quality and tighter fitting connectors and have not had this problem since.
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Nice reflection on the chrome there. I don't think it could have been that bad.
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Little_a_o
Shame its gone.
"Offices row at Fort Hancok, Sandy Hook NJ (Be sure to click the rectangle in the lower right corner of the picture frame so it fills your screen.)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ml9PvRAJ3cY"
Should have ridden sidesaddle!!!!!! ;D
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Right on , Kevin............This bike isn't meant to be flogged. Reliabilitiy isn't in top speed but in normal day to day running. I use some oil but only if I fill it all the way up and if I flog the thing to death, yes, it will use some oil. I have not yet and do not intend to take this bike on the Interstate. It loves back roads just fine. Shifting is an art on this and many other bikes. It takes a while to learn, just like learning how to take care of the Wife. Treat them right and you'll not be sorry. Some of this reply may be wine inspired. DG
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