Unofficial Royal Enfield Community Forum
Royal Enfield Motorcycles => Bullet Iron Barrel => Topic started by: Possm_23 on June 05, 2015, 12:14:00 am
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Has anyone had to replace this part? What causes it to break?
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Got a picture or more details?
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It's the part that clutch cable connects to inside the front end box.... Also the part that loosens or tightens clutch plate pressure. I'd take a picture but I can't figure out how to post it
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Are you talking about part 21 the part that the clutch cable attaches to?
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Yes....we have the same manual!!!!! The part that the cable hooks to snapped off
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There has been a lot of talk on making sure the ball on the end of the cable is located correctly to reduce stress on the cable. Hitchcocks also sells a new outer cover that changes the angle of the cable slightly which is supposed to reduce stress and improve shifting quality. The good news is you can replace the damaged part with the gear case in the bike. The parts in the exploded view are like $22 plus shipping. Looks like your down for a week. I'd consider a new lined clutch cable as well as it appears there may have been some excess stress.
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You want the later version of that part, from 2006 and later. The later version is an improved version that is less likely to snap.
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I'll be ordering a new as soon as a field Gear opens. I was lucky I got home before it completely snapped. Thanks guys
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$40 plus shipping!!!!!
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You want the later version of that part, from 2006 and later. The later version is an improved version that is less likely to snap.
Ace a couple years ago I was ordering a few parts and decided to get the newer version 550512 CLUTCH OPERATING ASSEMBLY 5 SPEED in case my original fishhook design assy broke and also because my cable end broke at the COA. Well I installed it and went to bolt the case on and no go. It didn't have the correct reach for the clutch rod and the geometry was off on the arm for the cable. What gives? Does the case have to be changed also? Is this the correct one or did I order the wrong part? It almost seems like a new case with correct spacing and geometry is necessary to use this part.
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You want the later version of that part, from 2006 and later. The later version is an improved version that is less likely to snap.
I asked if there was more than one version and the salesman said they were all the same.
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Ace a couple years ago I was ordering a few parts and decided to get the newer version 550512 CLUTCH OPERATING ASSEMBLY 5 SPEED in case my original fishhook design assy broke and also because my cable end broke at the COA. Well I installed it and went to bolt the case on and no go. It didn't have the correct reach for the clutch rod and the geometry was off on the arm for the cable. What gives? Does the case have to be changed also? Is this the correct one or did I order the wrong part? It almost seems like a new case with correct spacing and geometry is necessary to use this part.
Don't know. All my cases are later ones.
Dave Murray seemed to be able to get his later one to work on his Sixty-Five. Unfortunately, we can't ask him about it now, because he's dead. :(
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You want the later version of that part, from 2006 and later. The later version is an improved version that is less likely to snap.
I asked if there was more than one version and the salesman said they were all the same.
The later model probably superseded all earlier versions.
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Mine, the 2006 or later assembly, also snapped shortly after I replaced it. Just like the older version it is better but also poorly designed and made from lousy material. Eventually I made this part (that the cable hooks on) myself. Does not look very pretty but you can't see it anyway and there is no way it can break during normal operation. Before that my clutch cable broke 4 times ... approximately every 1,000 miles.
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A hydraulic clutch conversion for the 5 speed would be nice...
A.
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$40 plus shipping!!!!!
That part is $14.20 pounds on Hitchcocks? Converted to dollars that's like $22.00?
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Nfield is faster delivery though.....
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Kudos to Nfield Gear. I ordered my part for my bike Friday morning and got it today..... Thanks a million guys!!!!!!!!
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What was the part #?
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That's fast Hats off to the parts deaprtment at NField Gear!
;)
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Clutch operating system (550512/A) and clutch cable.....????????????????????
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well i got it installed and I cant believe the difference it made. That thing must have been going bad ever since I bought the bike. It shifts better than it ever has, there is not as big a clunck when I down shift into first and it no longer wants to keep moving when i pull up and stop at an intersection. It shifts so much smoother, I'm a happy camper!!!!!!
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When I installed an aftermarket clutch cable and adjusted it myself things got a lot better than stock. I am going to intall a ceramic ball between the clutch activating rod when I install my new clutch plates.
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I bought a Barret or Barnett clutch cable.
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Hello Everyone,
Last weekend it happened again (for the sixth time in sixth year) and I was returning home with the clutch not working. Originally I had the so called "fish hook" design assembly which was very effective in braking the cable ends. A couple of years ago I learned about the "2006 and later" COA so naturally I ordered one hoping that the clutch cable issues would become thing of the past. Yet after about 3 months sides of the swivel part just came apart. Well, I decided that using just drill, hammer and vice I can easily manufacture such part myself in my garage. The resulting piece despite its shabby appearance definitely assures reliability. That was last summer. At this point I was confident that nothing can possibly go wrong with my improved COA anymore. Well, couple of days ago I found out that it could and it did.
Is there somewhere a COA that will work without a failure or do I have to design and manufacture such part myself? Thank you.
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t34.0-12/11221952_928686287189210_6989081111828101975_n.jpg?oh=85b99bdcb4761e37a1a08b16a6b06284&oe=55C2DC02)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t34.0-12/11830732_928686387189200_613216614_n.jpg?oh=153e26cea442c7ddd33e4d3f0ea83205&oe=55C2C0C4)
(https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t34.0-12/11846187_928686397189199_484817428_n.jpg?oh=1c0794f9e6c0fa0031818f7ef830b874&oe=55C2AD79)
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Wow. So it broke the metal at the base of the arm? I wouldn't think there'd be that much pressure on it...I was always amazed at how little travel there was on the clutch rod
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Link to thread on clutch release mod.
https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,9395.msg210953.html#msg210953 (https://forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,9395.msg210953.html#msg210953)
The pics in the thread are also in the photo gallery and have a few notes under them there.
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Tarnand
The swivel link looks like it only has about 1/16" of material above the cable attachment hole/slot.
If you increase the amount of material above the attachment hole/slot to something like 1/8 to 3/16 inches (assuming there is nothing above it to cause it to interfere), I'm sure the new link would last for years.
The broken arm could have been part of the reason your cable link broke but whatever, that part definitely needs to be replaced.
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Thank you Ice. I have been considering such mod but I was not sure if it would work. Apparently it does so I think I am going to give it a try. :)
Arizoni, the broken swivel link shown on the last pic is the original one that came with the COA. It broke shortly after installation and I replaced it with the one currently attached to the arm (that's the one I made myself). This link appears to work fine. Now it is the arm part of the COA that I am concerned with as it lasted only about 2k miles and it came as a shock to me when it failed last Sunday.
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There are two pieces of steel rod and a single ball bearing between them that transmit the motion of the release mechanism through the hollow transmission shaft to the clutch pressure plate located on the opposite end of the shaft.
What I surmise has happened is this; the clutch push rod halves formerly flat ends have become concave due to wear and bedding of the ball between them and the rods have in effect become shorter over all.
When this occurs the clutch begins to drag and the cable numerous times to compensate.
Now the rotating arm travels a bit further before stopping than it formerly did.
As it travels, the roller balls move it sideways via inclined plane action provided by the three opposing indentations of the two main halves of the release mechanism. This increased travel results in the rotating arm half moving outward more than before.
With the cable housing end still being fixed there is now more side load on the end of the rotating arm.
Were it my bike I would order one of the low friction ceramic ball bearings from ACE cafe and instal it, decently greased of course, between two new rods. The sharp edges of the replacement release mechanism would be polished to a modest radius to eliminate stress risers. The mechanism would be installed and adjusted per the manual and then the cable adjusted after that. Please take note that as far as cable ends are concerned the release mechanism in the linked thread is of the pre-06 variety, otherwise the two are like.
The red lines denote one edge of of one area I would polish.
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Done it. Also polished all sharp edges on the whole thing ... although that is not visible on this picture yet. Thank you all. Now; how seriously, you think, I should consider replacing the whole clutch pushrod assembly including the ceramic ball Ice mentioned?
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Br. Tarnand,
Your photos tell the tell better than mine do so for the good of the order and as an aid to future searches on the subject I have cross linked this thread to the old one.
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Look at the operating mechanism brings back some memories. One of the tweaks was to fit some bigger balls to reduce the amount of rotation required to free the clutch and at the same time reduce the bending on the cable end. The original design was flawed from the beginning because the whole thing started to operate at 90* and as the cable was pulled the arm went downwards not upwards
Unfortunately for some of us the replacement clutch cable lasted longer than the big end!
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One of the tweaks was to fit some bigger balls to reduce the amount of rotation required to free the clutch and at the same time reduce the bending on the cable end
That IS interesting. Would you be able to elaborate on that aspect? Thank you Portisheadric.