[Superchuck]

Hey all,

I've read it on here over and over again to not use the throttle at all when starting your bike.  When my bike is cold, even if I prime it and use the choke then kick it over, it'll idle for a few seconds then die.  If I keep kicking it over it'll work after 3 or 4 of these 'idle then die' sequences.  A fool-proof way to get it started first try for me is prime it, choke to enrich, kick it over, then once it's ticking give it a tiny crank of throttle.  Works like a charm.

I don't want to be doing anything to harm/cause a problem in my bike.  I remember reading before that using throttle too soon can flood (something?).

Thanks in advance for any help...   also, did the first DIY oil change last night... just engine oil so far but got it all finished without recreating the Exxon Valdez and without shooting my eye out with the red rider filter spring.

[The Garbone]

Well, I think it depends.

Last week at work some of the guys was talking about bikes at the end of the day next to  my RE.    Two of them tried to kick it but just could not do it.    I thought it was odd so hopped on and she started first try.  Came to the realization that I feather the throttle ever so slightly at right instance for her to grab. 

So I guess what I am saying is that each machine is different and you have to develop a feel for what they want, once you do it comes second nature.

[Gunga Din]

I put an Amal Monobloc on mine a few years ago and that eliminated all the starting, idling, and running problems I ever had.   

[UncleErnie]

I count exactly 3 1/2 revol;utions before applying a little throtle during warm up.  As long as ot ticks over when you kick it and keeps idling- who cares?  It's YOUR bike;  do what works.

[Superchuck]

Thanks guys,

Just trying to prevent any future maintenance due to beginner naivete-

[ArmyAirborne]

Mine does the same thing on starting up. Idles a few seconds then dies. I just get it running, then give it some throttle  until it will idle on it's own.

I think the manula saying not to use throttle when kickstarting is saying don't apply the throttle, then kick it over. Once it's running why shouldn't you be able to use the throttle?

[Superchuck]

My thoughts exactly... i figured if it's running it's running.  It always idles fine on its own as soon as i give it a little bump of throttle.  Good to know no problems here

chuck

[Chasfield]

A little throttle to maintain a fast idle after start up is no problem.

Trying to catch these big singles on the throttle as you are kick starting just invites a kick back. That big slug would much rather go back down the bore than over the top when it is moving slowly.

My bike likes the throttle open just a crack when the engine is hot. It will start from cold quite readily with the throttle shut.

If I could retard the ignition point to zero BTDC, I would give the engine more air on a hot start. Bring back the advance retard lever, says I.

[mbevo1]

They are unique...

Mine WILL NOT CATCH with the throttle open at start.  Acts almost like there's no spark...

With or without choke (temp dependent) I leave the throttle closed until the motor catches... then usually give it a bit to keep it turning.

My '07 is a first or second kick starter always - I use three switch-off priming kicks (with just a tad of throttle) when cold, just one when warm.

Mike and S&S in Michigan

[bob bezin]

the no throttle thing  i think is for fuel injected bikes

[Chasfield]

Yeah, I think on sophisticated EFI systems the black box sorts out any engine temperature fuelling issues without your intervention. You are just along for the ride!

[Superchuck]

cool, good to know the 'common sense' way is usually the right method with these machines-

[Tiny Tim]

First things first.

Allowing the engine to die / stall is the short cut to hearing your sprag clutch go West! If you keep a watchfull ear open as the engine dies in these circumstances, you'll often hear a "ricochet" sound. That's the sprag doing it's job and stopping the engine spinning the starter backwards as the engine dies and half backfires. If the engine tries anything more than a half-hearted backfire, you'll hear more of an "anvil clang" than a ricochet and your sprag will be in Hawaii!

Aloha! Get your wallet out.

Second things second.
The choke on almost all carb options on these bikes is, in fact, an "enricher". It doesn't choke off the air to the mix but adds fuel thus resulting in a better chance of starting when cold and a higher tickover speed. Once the engine has started, reduce the enricher lever as required and keep the engine running with the throttle untill the enricher is off altogether. By this time you should be able to let the engine tickover without stalling.If not, raise the tickover on the carb.

The advice to "not use the throt;e when starting" refers to exactly that. Starting. Once the engine has fired and is running, you can give it all the gas you want to. Using the throttle when kicking / cranking BEFORE THE ENGINE HAS FIRED INTO LIFE runs the risk of flooding the engine and soaking the plug. - No spark from wet plugs!

[GreenMachine]

tim: that pretty much sums it up...took a few weeks after getting the bike but funny how it all seem to lead there...right on the money how my machine starts when cold.....