Author Topic: Some goods and bads today  (Read 1882 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

greekxj

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: 0
on: March 02, 2011, 12:31:19 am
Hey guys, figured i would try to get some more break in miles in on my bike before we get some crappy weather again. Got 13 miles in yesterday and 15 today, my max on it as of now ;D

Ok the bad, and just one thing. Fouled my first plug. Being nervous about the bike stalling with the choke off and sprag issues i left the choke on even though it was not happy about it i throttled it a little with choke on just to get some air flow. Seemed to be ok but when i flipped off the choke it idled for a little and then when i went to take off it stalled. Had a hard time starting it and when i did and held the throttle open it would pop, run choppy and just not sound good etc. I knew it was fouled. Pulled the plug in my driveway and popped my new spare one in. Fired up right away and gave no issues on my 15 mile ride.

So im just trying to get used to the choke on/off thing with the bike in its "happy" range ya know. I know the choke is on or off only so its odd cause it starts with it but doesn't seem happy after a short period(10-20 seconds if that), but when i turn it off it definitely doesn't like that either lol. I keep blipping the throttle but i get stalls so i guess its just a pain. I bet some tuning needs to be done which might help but im still kinda stuck for now til the weather warms up and i can ride/test on a regular basis. It might even start with no choke when warm outside but its too soon to tell. Its def richer than lean.

Ok the good, bike runs great once past the cold start fiasco. I am getting close to the end of that first break in point at 320 miles or so. The thing that made me happy today was i a really started to get the feel for the 3-4 shifts in which i was getting alot of false neutrals before. I did what was recommended here and just "feel for the gear" and then let out the clutch. Worked really well today as i was determined to get it down. I noticed that the few times i messed it up i kinda hurried the shift and lost focus as i had impatient traffic behind me. Man if i was on my Yamaha Roadliner these people wouldn't even have a chance to go around me lol. But anyway just trying to be patient and get through all the early stages of new bullet ownership.

So thats all guys. I still think i might be a tad rich so maybe ill drop in the 27.5 pilot from the 30 in there now. I guess i have left it in as it runs great after cold starting. Ah well we'll see.


greekxj

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: 0
Reply #1 on: March 02, 2011, 01:19:34 am
On a little side note, i checked the plug a little while ago. This was the fresh one i used right after the fouling issue. So it was put it when the bike was warmed up good and it had no black or anything on it. Just a little gold in the center on a couple spots. I know its not a proper plug chop but the other couple plugs in there before were pretty dark after short usage. So they are definitely getting discolored with the choke usage. Maybe ill try to just use the choke for a SUPER short time or just to start and do the blip thing til its idling decent. Hell maybe i should just leave the choke off and twist the throttle a hair before starting to get some gas in for a prime. Just a thought. Bike sits in a heated garage BTW thats usually like 52ish(when not working out there). If its a little warmer outside its about 60 in there. So its def not in a cold barn or outside etc.


single

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,507
  • Karma: 0
Reply #2 on: March 02, 2011, 04:38:13 am
If you give it  any throttle on kick over,it is apt to just kick back,they don't like to be pressed.I can not leave the choke on when starting,only for the priming kicks with the compression released.I USED to need to screw in the idles set screw(the BIG one) to let Jolly warm up,but now it just thumps away.You need a faster idle than what you mite think is rite,I did.Not fast but not slow at all.Hang in there,yer doin' good.The shifting will get better on it's own as well as you will get better.Jolly shifts as well as most bikes I have owned at this point.Good for you for sticking with the program on break in.


greekxj

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: 0
Reply #3 on: March 02, 2011, 02:00:47 pm
If you give it  any throttle on kick over,it is apt to just kick back,they don't like to be pressed.I can not leave the choke on when starting,only for the priming kicks with the compression released.I USED to need to screw in the idles set screw(the BIG one) to let Jolly warm up,but now it just thumps away.You need a faster idle than what you mite think is rite,I did.Not fast but not slow at all.Hang in there,yer doin' good.The shifting will get better on it's own as well as you will get better.Jolly shifts as well as most bikes I have owned at this point.Good for you for sticking with the program on break in.

Hey thanks single. I have a question, with the priming kicks and compression release open, does fuel actually get sucked in or put in the cylionder? I thought with no compression no fuel gets pulled in. Is that true? If not then maybe thats my problem. Any input? Thanks


RGT

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 566
  • Karma: 0
  • '94 350 Bullet
Reply #4 on: March 02, 2011, 02:11:13 pm
You get enough airflow to pull fuel into the cylinder when the compression release is used, I can hear it start popping when the fuel gets in there, I have had the bike start during a priming kick with the compression release pulled, I consider that a no-kick start. On my bike I turn off the enrichener as soon as it starts, if not right after the priming kick. as mentioned your idle may be too low or maybe you need to adjust your idle mixture to make it a little richer....


single

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,507
  • Karma: 0
Reply #5 on: March 02, 2011, 02:13:38 pm
Apparently the rite amount gets sucked in,or perhaps the carb  just gets loaded up and then the fuel is sucked in on kickover,I do not know,but my guess is that some fuel does get into the cyl.from the priming kicks.The compression release only opens up a small passageway in the exhaust side of the head,it does not hold a valve open.So there should be a lot of suction even with the compression released.By the way I have seen posts on here also stating that the bike would not run well or at all with the choke left on.I have a 34mm Mikuni on Jolly now,but the start up routine is the same


The Garbone

  • Shade Tree
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 3,978
  • Karma: 0
  • User Complaints: 22
Reply #6 on: March 02, 2011, 02:17:00 pm
Depends on the carb and bike.   On my bike I just push it till I hit compression, hit the decomp to move the piston a bit past TDC,  reset and kick.      With my old stock carb I used to do priming kicks,  but now I think its more about positioning the piston for the first kick and waiting 15 seconds to kick after I turn on the fuel tap.

I imagine even with the decomp pushed open you get some draw through the carb and fuel mix.    
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


single

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,507
  • Karma: 0
Reply #7 on: March 02, 2011, 02:32:25 pm
On the idle thingy,I have Jolly set so that the ammeter shows neutral-no charge,no discharge.Also,a 5 minute warm up is good,but avoid blipping the throttle just give it enough to keep it running.I like to warm Jolly until it is warmed,3-5 min.,then take it kinda easy for the first 10 minutes or so.The only thing wrong with my approach is that the bike may be getting a little sooty by the time I open it up to clean it out,but there is never any smoke,so this is what I do.I am a little cautious with this bike because,unlike you,I did not do a proper break in.I know that I cannot make up for it,just trying to do rite now.also,on shifting,higher shift points usually help any manual trans shift better.So,as you raise the speeds,the shifting will improve partly because of this and the other things mentioned.If not,the dealer needs to see about it.


greekxj

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: 0
Reply #8 on: March 02, 2011, 02:43:32 pm
WOW thanks everyone! I bet i over primed the bike not knowing fuel was actually getting pulled in. Ill be honest and say ive done it more than a few kicks on several occasions just thinking that i was getting oil moved around for a cold start(thought that was the reason for the priming with the decomp open). Had no idea fuel might have been getting pumped around. Ill try the 3 prime kick with the choke on and do both, fire it up without choke and with(immediatley turning off) to see how she reacts. Im sure some tweaking might need to be done still but it didnt help for me to have the procedure wrong etc. Ah well, ya learn new things everyday! Probably a good sign that i am not far off though as the bike runs great past the cold start thing. Lets see what happens when i can ride next. Will report back as soon as that happens but feel free for any more tips/advice you guys have. Thanks!


bob bezin

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,189
  • Karma: 0
  • I ride therefore I am.
Reply #9 on: March 02, 2011, 03:10:12 pm
and don't be surprised if you have to change the drill when the weather warms up.
2000 RE classic ,              56 matchless g80
2006 RE delux fireball       86 yamaha SRX 600                       
2015 indian chief vintage
65 500cctriumph
04 bonnie black
71 750 norton.
48 whizzer


greekxj

  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 453
  • Karma: 0
Reply #10 on: March 02, 2011, 10:28:38 pm
and don't be surprised if you have to change the drill when the weather warms up.

Oh ya lol. My guess is if it needs a hair choke now if any, it probably wont need it period once it gets nice and warm out etc.


aleman

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 128
  • Karma: 0
Reply #11 on: March 03, 2011, 12:09:48 am
On transmission and shifting:

In the beginning I was told that it takes time to break in the transmission; very true.  It'll take some patience on your part, but I can tell you mine shifted like a dream after about  2,000 miles, which seems like a lot, but that's the deal with a a lot of these.  Also, if it's difficult you might try tightening up the clutch cable (1/8th turn increments).  It's pretty common in the beginning that youre plates might not be getting just quite enough "lift off" - especially with a cable that could be still stretching.  Adjustment is a little finicky if not used to it.

aleman
FB 002