[Superchuck]

we getting high winds and down pours in northern va..something about tornado watch till 4:00 ..hope u have it tied down or it could take another beating..stay dry..

Thanks GreenMachine,  yeah I'm at work right not just north of the district line (near College Park) and it's nasty out.  I moved the bike to my front sidewalk where it's pointed into the usual prevailing wind so I'm hoping this'll prevent any future heartache-

[GreenMachine]

i feel for ya with the parking situation in baltimore and your baby...i didn't know it was that costly for insurance in baltimore...been there a couple of times,, u know seafood at the inner harbor , etc...nice town and lots to see especially historical stuff....we a little to far to hook up as u around the beltway and up aways.. u can always take your baby around the beltway and 66 if u come out my direction but then i would think you lost your mind.....heeee

[Superchuck]

So i rode the bike last night to assess all damages...  it seems mostly OK but here's what I've found:

I'm having more difficulty finding neutral... the bike landed on its left side (shifter side) during the windy fall.  The left foot peg was bend/loosened slightly, so I'm wondering if it did something to the shift lever as well.  Any adjustments I can do to this?  I'm also not convinced it's isn't just due to cold temperatures and the reduction of feeling in my extremeties.

The only other thing was that the handlebar control clusters (left side) now bang the tank.  I was reading a post called 'handlebars' where I learned enfields don't have adjustable steering stops, and all you can do to prevent tank banging is rotate the handlebar angle and control clusters until they don't bang.  The handlebars don't seem bent at all from the fall, but there was so little clearance before between clusters and tank that even a slight bending of the handlebars may lead to banging.  The tank's already dented and I don't turn to lockout except when backing up/parking.  If there is a handlebar bend, it's not noticeable and I can live with it, but if there's anything else I can do to prevent it I'd like to.  Think I'll wait to replace the tank in a year or so in case I get the hankering to do a cafe kit or something.

chuck

[Superchuck]

Ressurrecting this thread as I just noticed something on today's commute.  My left control cluster spins freely.  I read somewhere that there is a small hole drilled in the handlebars which a screw goes into to prevent control cluster spinning.  If that is the case with my bike, the pin or whatever would go into the handlebar hole must've broken off when slamming into the tank during this previous storm incident (see first post on this thread). 

I also noticed that depending on where the control cluster positions itself, it sometimes keeps my clutch lever from pulling the whole way.  Come to think of it, I think I've been 'half clutching' instead of doing it the normal way the majority of the time I've had the bike.  Now that I've figured it out it's almost messing me up when I try and shift with a full lever pull.  Nevermind my wanderings.  While the bike's getting better and broken in i fear its operator has one too many screws in need of tightening.

Back to the point:  Does my handlebar have a hole and pin to prevent control cluster movement?  The wires are all external... If it has this hole, and the pin or whatever had broken like hypothesized above, is there anything i can do to fix it?

Thanks in advance!

Chuck

[UncleErnie]

Rubber Chucky, don't you have any pioneers in your family tree?  Just wrap some electrical tape around the area.  There's 2 Phillipshead screws to loosen so you can move the perch back some, then push it back over the tape.  This will slow the movement, but not stop it completely.
Unless that's where you rest a hand when doing pull-ups on the handle bar- so what?  It's stationary enough to get the job done. 

Clutch lever;  huh?  It doesn't m,atter whether you pull it back too far.  What matters is if you get the point of engagement at a good place.  Just put new bars on and I'm going through this myself.  Unless the lever is hitting something like a bar-end mirror, I don't get what's going to prevent the lever from going all the way back.   HOWEVER- you can easily adjust the clutch so the lever doesn't have to come all the way back, anyway.

[Superchuck]

Thanks, yeah took it for a spin last night and tried various shifting methods.  What was happening was that if the control cluster spun a certain way, one of the cables coming out of the back of it would be hitting part of the clutch lever.  I got used to squeezing the clutch lever til it stopped (not realizing it was just getting hung up on a stray cable), then when i moved the cluster back to where it was supposed to be, the increased range of lever motion threw off my mojo per say.  As of now i'm readjusting to 'normal.'  If you want to recreate this problem on your bike to see what i'm talking about, just grab your left cluster and torque it like it's your throttle grip.  As it spins back, the cables that are pointing towards the front of the bike poke up in the air, and in my case, they were hitting against the clutch lever.  Just more growing pains from someone who's only ridden motorbikes for three months. 

I read the friction tape method on another post.  Was reading about swapping bars and some people who drill holes to both hide the cables and/or to keep the clusters from moving.  I'm cool with the tape method though... simpler the better. 

Many thanks as always, Uncle E- beers to you!

chuck