Author Topic: HELP! Full battery but NO lights, starter, nothing  (Read 10011 times)

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JohnofDelph

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Reply #30 on: February 05, 2011, 06:06:56 pm
I had a related problem on my Woodsman. The neutral light and fuel pump whine were erratic when first switched on. Also, once I had started the bike, putting the lights on would kill the motor. I would have to wait a few minutes before switching them on. Battery leads were tight and the battery was fully charged, but I eventually traced the fault to the earth lead to the top of the electric start which was slightly loose. I tightened the nut and have had no further problems. :)


kiamarider

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Reply #31 on: February 19, 2011, 05:04:20 am
The same no power etc etc happened to me Dec` 23  09 when i picked up my new black C5.from the dealer in Australia . About a 60km ride home and stopped to smell the flowers half way on  a very rural road. Time to start - nothing. The dealer-Jetsport sent out his mechanic.. Battery fine, terminals fine, lets shake under the headlight-YES. Believe was wire connected---just- then when handlebars put to one side just enough the dislodge a little. Now up to 7400km and rides like a dream: had 150km ride this morning- all hills/dairy farms/twisty roads/forest:- had a ball. :D


clubman

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Reply #32 on: February 19, 2011, 10:13:03 pm
Same thing happened to me a few hours ago. The bike started, I switched the lights on, put it in gear, pulled away and it cut out. I put it down to the cold weather and went to start it again at which point I realised that there was total electrical failure. It being cold and dark I cut my losses and got the train home - 55 miles. I knew there was this thread here but I couldn't remember what it said so now I at least have a few ideas when I go back tomorrow. And recovery if all else fails.  :(


prof_stack

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Reply #33 on: February 19, 2011, 10:14:41 pm
Too bad.  I just tugged on the wire bundle under the headlamp and power was magically restored.  Been fine ever since.

... where is some wood to touch?  ...
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singhg5

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Reply #34 on: February 19, 2011, 10:29:39 pm
Can we then SUMMARISE -  

1.  TUG THE WIRES BUNDLE UNDER THE HEADLAMP.

2.  SHAKE UNDER THE HEADLIGHT.  

3.  TIGHTEN THE EARTH WIRE TO ELECTRIC START.

New addition, after Clubman found real cause that blew his motorcycle fuse -

4.  CHECK THE BATTERY AND ITS SURROUNDING WIRES.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2011, 01:04:08 am by singhg5 »
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
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ScooterBob

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Reply #35 on: February 19, 2011, 10:49:14 pm
To quote Hollywood Holt from his video .......

"If the headlight's broke, just jiggle the cord ......"   ;)
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clubman

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Reply #36 on: February 20, 2011, 06:10:28 pm
An update on yesterday. I got back to the bike and took the headlight rim off for full access but couldn't see any loose connections, frayed wires or anything else suspect and decided to call recovery. Someone was there within a reasonable time and started checking for continuity from the battery onwards. It didn't take long to see what had happened. A screw had fallen out on one side of the metal clamp that holds the battery in place. The battery was therefore free to move out a little bit and in doing so pushed one of the surrounding wires against the side panel so the insulation was gradually worn away until the wire shorted against the side panel. This in turn blew the fuse related to said wire. All is now fixed and the bike is now running again with lessons learned. He secured the clamp back in place with a cable tie which I actually think is a better option as it won't fall out. I shall also secure all the loose wires in that area from movement by simply sticking them to the battery with gaffer tape.

People post here on a regular basis about checking nuts and bolts and I always thought that I did so when I clean the bike (which is regularly) and that I seemed to be immune to this problem. Typical that it's something you can't see that comes off!


r80rt

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Reply #37 on: February 20, 2011, 06:22:06 pm
Glad to know it wasn't a big problem.
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ScooterBob

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Reply #38 on: February 20, 2011, 08:35:04 pm
Glad to know it wasn't a big problem.


You know ........... MOST electrical problems aren't huge - unless a LOT of the smoke escapes. Most of them are what I call "5-15" problems - Five days to FIND it - fifteen minutes to FIX it - Hahaha! Fortunately, the harness isn't but barely two meters long, so diligent work will usually find a problem in short order.

And Clubman - you are SO right about bits that you can't see causing all the problems! I think that is one of those "rules" that's written down somewhere - sort of like "The likelihood of the bread falling onto the carpet with the peanut butter side down is directly proportional to the cost of the carpet ......"  ;)
Spare the pig iron - spoil the part!


clubman

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Reply #39 on: February 20, 2011, 08:59:20 pm


I think that is one of those "rules" that's written down somewhere - sort of like "The likelihood of the bread falling onto the carpet with the peanut butter side down is directly proportional to the cost of the carpet ......"  ;)

 ;D Right!

Btw, the recovery guy didn't clock that it was a new bike. When he put the cable tie in place he said "So sorry to be putting a piece of plastic on the old girl!" Bless!


singhg5

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Reply #40 on: February 21, 2011, 12:59:24 am
A screw had fallen out on one side of the metal clamp that holds the battery in place.

The battery was therefore free to move out a little bit and in doing so pushed one of the surrounding wires against the side panel so the insulation was gradually worn away until the wire shorted against the side panel. This in turn blew the fuse related to said wire. All is now fixed and the bike is now running again with lessons learned.

He secured the clamp back in place with a cable tie which I actually think is a better option as it won't fall out.

I shall also secure all the loose wires in that area from movement by simply sticking them to the battery with gaffer tape.

@Clubman:

Glad you have found the real source that shorted the fuse.  

Recently, I had replaced the screws that hold the clamp (to keep battery in place) with Phillips head screws so that I can use one screw driver to open the battery clamp and the batter terminals (I have Yuasa battery that has Phillips head screws on terminals).

At that time, I installed LOCKING washer (split washer) on the screws, so that the vibrations of motorcyle may not loosen the screw.  These locking washers act like a spring and push the screw head - hopefully that keeps them tight.
« Last Edit: February 21, 2011, 01:05:36 am by singhg5 »
1970's Jawa /  Yezdi
2006 Honda Nighthawk
2009 Royal Enfield Black G5


singleguy

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Reply #41 on: February 21, 2011, 06:59:30 am
Had the same problems you experienced.New bike: showing it off to my friends.
Embarrassing AS HELL WHEN THE BRAND NEW BAVY won'y start !
Turned aa the switches, keys etc. ect.
Then I got smart and retracted the sidestand, and the motor roared to life.
Safety lockout swithch is closed when the stand is up
Good luck              ED