[Superchuck]

Hey all,  as you've probably seen I'm getting a new '09 electra avl next thursday. 

I've been reading that sprag failures are more common in cold weather.  It's in the mid thirties in baltimore right now.  i don't want to ride around in the snow and ice but as soon as the roads are clear I know i'll be dying to take it out.  does riding it stock in cold mean i'm basically going to have a sprag failure?

I read on another post that *CMW has a "fix"* some box that you replace on the stock AVL's.  The post was from a few years ago and I was wondering if this has been fixed in the '09 Electra.  Also, is this something I should look into doing to Prevent sprag failure, or just fix the sprag IF it happens to me?

I've also read that the lean burn engines have more likelyhood of sprag failure.  I know it's caused by a kickback when starting the bike, and that it's more likely to happen if I use the ES than the kickstart.  I've never kickstarted a bike, but plan on learning quickly, and I was also wondering if you can CAUSE a sprag failure by improperly kickstarting... aka if i go out the day after i get the bike and get it in my head that i'm going to kickstart it and begin the break-in, can i damage the bike by trial and error or excessive improper kickstarting?

Thanks in advance, and any advice is much appreciated.  Also, if there's anything above that seems to be not quite correct, just let me know so i can understand better.

cheers,

chuck

[Superchuck]

one more note:  The bike will have a 12 mo/1200 mi warranty on it, but I have yet to find an authorized service shop in the area.  There's one nearby- about 30 miles west from downtown, but they seem more of a sport bike place, and just mention RE's on their directory listing.  i guess as long as they can do warranty work that's good for me and my bike.

chuck

[UncleErnie]

A search for "TCI" will show that the little ignition thnger-winger (sorry to be so tech on you here) under the front end of your seat came black.  Most dealers have changed to a green one, bu ti f not, you can send your VIN into CMW and they will send you a green one for free.  What this allegedly does is put the engine in motion before the spark happens.  Yo-

The sprag can go any time.  The theory is that when the engine stops for any reason, it wants to go backwards (recoil?) and that breaks sprag teeth.  Any time you stall, this can happen.  My SECOND sprag went while I was backing into my garage after a ride.  The bike just stalled for who-knows-why reason.  I got that one for free on a warranty.  They are expensive for what they are, so if you're going to eat them, do it during the first year.  It's just postponing learning how to kick your bike, though.

Warranty work;  the laws in the 'Sates now say that ANY "competant" mechanic can do warranty work on your bike.  The thing is, CMW will not send parts to YOU- you have to order them through a dealer.  So, get to know your nearest dealer.  He doesn't have to do the work, but he has to get you parts.
Document with notes and diagrams all work done.

I shall eschew the topic of dealers and warranty work at this time...

[Superchuck]

Thanks a lot for the info... the nearest dealer to me (where i'll be picking up the bike) is about 150 miles away (95 mi as the crow flies) and in the next state over.  MD doesn't have any licensed dealers, but that's good advice on 'competant mechanics' and warranty work.  I'll check into my black/green box under the seat, and try to get my dealer/shop situation worked out.

chuck

[REpozer]

Cold weather "may" be a factor in a stall at a "low" tic over. Cold weather also contributes to a stall due to vacuum leaks and using choke. ( blow your carb off  )

 Do a search for "Green TCI " ....nothing much changes fast at REM.

I ride in cold weather as long as no ice on the road.And as long as I can handle it....not the bike.

[Superchuck]

Is a way to eliminate the risk of a damage in a cold weather low idle just to give it a little throttle when the clutch is disengaged?  ie: at a traffic light, etc...  I've also read it's best to keep rpm's mid to upper mid level especially during the break-in (don't lug it) on hills, etc.

[UncleErnie]

Turn the idle screw up after the bike warms up enough to not have to have the choke on.  Basically, the idle should be fast enough to keep it from stalling, without "racing".
Some people feel ike the engine runs leaner in the wonder and they re-jet- I haven't noticed any problems in that way.

The main point in breaking in is to vary rhe speeds and loads as much as possible- gradually increasing speeds/revs over a long period of time.  In the beginning, I used to pul over to ;let old women with walkers pass.  After a while, I kept up and had some pleasnat conversations along the way.  (I'm afraid I broke some hearts when the speeds started picking up, but I never forget to wave)

[REpozer]

The low idle/tic over you see on Youtube, is mainly to show/hear the "coolness' of a single thumper.
 
Adjust as needed to keep the idle from stalling out. I readjust as the engine warms up from riding.

 On a cool day the engine may take 30-60 minutes or more of riding to completely warm up. I have no exhaust bluing ....I guess from operating in the cold.

[Ice]

Also carb jetting plays a part.

Carbs are most always be factory jetted a bit on the lean side .

Colder air is of course denser air.

Those two factors also contribute to a lean condition.

[greekxj]

Hey, congrats and good luck with the new bike! I bought an 07 iron engine bullet with 201 miles on it like 6 weeks ago. It was in good shape but needed some stuff done since it had been sitting for a while obviously. Got it running great after a carb clean and have just been going over the bike top to bottom since i got it. Its winter here in Chicago so i have nothing else to do but wrench which is perfect this time of year lol. I am looking forward to my first ride though as i am sure you are too. Bunch of great folks here and every time i have a question i have tons of replies right away. i have been on alot of forums but this one is something special as it takes special people to be in to these bikes. Hope you enjoy it and get to ride to sooner than me haha!

[Superchuck]

Thanks and best of luck to you and your new Bullet.  I've been on a lot of various forums for many hobbies throughout the years but like you said, nothing's compared to the dedication or helpfulness I've found in the past few days here at RE.

Thanks also to those comments above- I'm making a huge checklist of stuff to do/get before and after I pick up the bike.  Thanks for answering my very green questions-

CHuck

[Superchuck]

Sprag statistics?

So if I stall out ten times in my first day riding, what is the probability that i'll wreck my sprag right off?  Does it break like one ever fifty stalls?  One every three stalls?  I know there's no tried and true statistic but I've read that it can happen basically anytime, anywhere. 

Just wondering how fragile it really is.  (and i'm not planning on stalling out ten times in my first day of riding, but it'll honestly happen at least once or twice)

chuck

[Ice]

 No statistics that I know of.

 Its luck of the draw really if you get a good one and the ones and bad ones do get the attention.

 I've stalled mine more times than I care to admit and only UCE riders use an E/S more than me.

 I believe I got lucky with my E/S.

 Keeping the bike tuned and the idle speed set right goes a long way towards making them last. Using the kicker does too.

 I am investigating a bi directional sprag ,I.E. works for cranking but de clutches on kick back but it is too early in the search to tell if  the sprag is available or if it will even fit or can be made to fit and work for our purposes.

[Superchuck]

Is there a tried and true E/S that I could replace my factory one with to reduce problems, or is it moreso the quality of the sprag?

Also, looking forward to reading of your findings on the bi-directional sprag-

[Ice]

This is theory only.
 I have no hard evidence to back this up but it seems logical to me at least.

 I think that RE sourced the the sprag itself from an outside vendor. For certain the ES motor and maybe the gear train too.

 I believe there were variations in tolerances, metallurgy, heat treatment and surface finish that can either work for or against us.

 Allegedly there is sprag for a Borg Warner automatic transmission that fits and works but I only read about it once,failed to book mark the page and have not followed up on it.

The bi directional sprag may turn out to be a big no go or if it is may be super expensive.
Either way I will let us all know the outcome but this will take considerable time.