[randombikerdude]

I was happily riding my RE, and accidentally left the gas line to "on" position for the main tank. Now it doesn't seem to want to start - what would this cause and what is the fix?

[Ice]

Lots of causes for a no start condition.

 Hopefully its just a case of coincedently running low on fuel at the moment of shut down. Have you tried switching to reserve ?

 Don't laugh, It has happened,,,,and don't ask how I know.

Another possibilty could be a fouled plug.

[UncleErnie]

If it won't turn over, the head is full of gas.  Do NOT try to use the E-start.  Liquids don't compress and you could blow a gasket or the sprag.  Take the plug out and THEN try to turn (kick lever) the engine over.  In any event, put a new plug in after everything has aired out.  I also redomend changing the oil, in case gas get by the rings and into the oil.

`

[randombikerdude]

OK, I still have not figured out kickstart - it seems like the decompress level does NOTHING - it barely moves, anyway.. Is there a way to drain the excess gas?

[UncleErnie]

As you'll read in other recent posts here, the AVL decompressor is indeed useless.
To check to see if the head has gas in it, TAKE THE SPARK PLUG OUT.   This will have the added benefit of getting rid of all the compression- making it VERY easy to kick over.

Kick-starting is another story.  In fact, I believe you started another thread on that very topic.  Good reading.

[Tiny Tim]

Leaving the Gas on will have no effect on the starting of the bike either after a short spell or even after laying up for the winter.

I know, 'cause I've done it!

Most likley, as Ice says, check you haven't run dry on the main. Turn the gas off, remove the hose and try the tap on main, then reserve. This will show you if gas is coming from the tank. Replace the hose and clean up any spilled gas, then check the spark at the plug by layng the plug on the head whilst connected to the plug cap. When you spin the starter you should have a bright blue spark.

Now as long as you have compression, it will fire.

Chances are, you're doing something wrong and are thinking that the gas tap is the root of the problem.

[UncleErnie]

I have had gas get past CV carbs before, and the engine wouldn't budge because the cunbustion chamber was full of gas.  It can't hurt to take the plug out to check.  Better safe than sorry.

[bob bezin]

once i left the gas on on a high pressure washer. i tried to pull the starter rope and it was almost impossible to pull . because the gas had filled the crankcase. had to drain it and refill with oil needless to say i always turn off the petcock now (if i remember)

[randombikerdude]

As far as replacing the hose, do I need to order one from a RE dealer? I can't be out of gas, I see gas in the tank, I put nearly a gallon in there. I haven't traveled much on it yet. how do I drain the carb? I ordered new spark plugs from CMW on the 16th and my order still says processing, haven't even contacted or anything about it.

"Insert Quote
I have had gas get past CV carbs before, and the engine wouldn't budge because the cunbustion chamber was full of gas.  It can't hurt to take the plug out to check.  Better safe than sorry."

[UncleErnie]

Holy cow!  Get to know a parts store!
Gas line is sold by the foot.  Make sure the petcock is off and use a screwdriver to help push the end off the nipple. (Just pulling is like a Chinese finger puzzle- the more you pull the harder it gets)  Bring your old gas line with you to make sure you get the right diameter.
Put a towel or something up there for when gas in the line drains out.
The line with a blue tont lasts the longest, if they have it.

Any bike shop will have NGK B8ES plugs.  Don't worry about resistor, and make sure there's no P in the designtion.  Just B8ES (or whatever your manual says)  Plugs are about $2.50 each and no shipping. 

[Ice]

Since you are replacing your fuel line Installing a small in line fuel filter is highly recommended  It will prevent many headaches.

For reference, heres a link to pic of some of the more popular types.

http://us2.startpage-proxy.com/do/show_picture.pl?l=english&cat=pics&c=pf&q=in+line+fuel+filter&h=877&w=1447&th=181&tw=300&fn=PA%252030.jpg&fs=78%20k&el=bing_pics_2&tu=http:%2F%2Fts1.mm.bing.net%2Fimages%2Fthumbnail.aspx%3Fq%3D415087395504%26id%3D66aefac701924087c1479bfb94296b78%26url%3Dhttp%253a%252f%252findustrialspec.com%252fimages%252fPA%25252030.jpg&rl=NONE&u=http:%2F%2Findustrialspec.com%2Fpa30.html&udata=2566a51a59d31d15bff106ca9aaeeb3e&rid=LILMTQNNOPPL&oiu=http:%2F%2Findustrialspec.com%2Fimages%2FPA%252030.jpg

[Superchuck]

What will the in line fuel filter prevent?  Will it just reduce waste buildup in the engine/exhaust or is there a performance-related benefit?  I'm looking for as many small tweaks and prevention fixes I can find to A: Learn this bike as much as possible, and B: to prevent big 'headaches' down the road.

[Ice]

 The in line fuel filter keeps sediment from building up in, and clogging the tiny passages in the carb.

Best two dollars I ever spent.

[Superchuck]

Cool, I'm getting one.  I need to find a closer cycle shop, and one that's open after normal dayjob hours.  My fuel line is basically brand new so I assume I won't need to replace it??  or is there an issue I'm not seeing?

[Ice]

Give the fuel line a pinch. If it is still flexible you should be good to go.
If its the gray stuff they used on Iron Barrels,, it lasts a very long time.

[Superchuck]

cool thanks again