Author Topic: Primary chain questions  (Read 7701 times)

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1Blackwolf1

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Reply #15 on: January 13, 2011, 01:44:27 am
don''t quote me..i would think its the same 5 speed transmission,,,

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Will Morrison
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UncleErnie

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Reply #16 on: January 13, 2011, 02:05:33 pm
I remembered the sprag.  I've had (another) new one sitting on the shelf for a long time... ,aybr I should put the new one in and just not try to use it.  May as well.  I don't trust them anymore, though...

AS I've already replaced the sprag once, I assume I still have all the tools necessary.  I will borrow a friends electric impact wrench again, too.

I changed my primary oil every 1500 miles- and check the chain.  I guess my neuroses messed up the ding-dong chain.  I guess I've been keeping it too tight.
Vince said I should take it to an Enfield mechanic to replace, so I can see what the proper set-up is, but I'M BROKE.  Plus -to tell the truth- I don't know if I trust Enfield mechanics close enough to take the bike to.  They just don't do enough business to see much action, and most of the people who own them don't ride them enough.  (One guy does, but I don't really know him)

I need to take a picture and see what you folks think about whether or not I'll need new sprockets, too.  They really look OK to me, but I guess I'm not the good judge I thought i was.
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GreenMachine

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Reply #17 on: January 13, 2011, 02:31:52 pm
just curious...u change fluid every 1500 miles...have u notice any debris/metal in the fluid as its draining or inspection when wiping out with a clean rag ???

If you look at the slipper adjuster, their is a bit of lining on the shoe...It actually looks like a inverted brake shoe..Is it gone and just bare metal.....If so you have to order a new one...
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1Blackwolf1

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Reply #18 on: January 13, 2011, 02:36:26 pm
I remembered the sprag.  I've had (another) new one sitting on the shelf for a long time... ,aybr I should put the new one in and just not try to use it.  May as well.  I don't trust them anymore, though...

AS I've already replaced the sprag once, I assume I still have all the tools necessary.  I will borrow a friends electric impact wrench again, too.

I changed my primary oil every 1500 miles- and check the chain.  I guess my neuroses messed up the ding-dong chain.  I guess I've been keeping it too tight.
Vince said I should take it to an Enfield mechanic to replace, so I can see what the proper set-up is, but I'M BROKE.  Plus -to tell the truth- I don't know if I trust Enfield mechanics close enough to take the bike to.  They just don't do enough business to see much action, and most of the people who own them don't ride them enough.  (One guy does, but I don't really know him)

I need to take a picture and see what you folks think about whether or not I'll need new sprockets, too.  They really look OK to me, but I guess I'm not the good judge I thought i was.

 One thing I was taught over many years of mechanical work was that every manufacturer is different.  Quality standards for parts vary from manufacturer to manufacturer greatly.  Even when manufactured by the same company parts have a pretty wide parameter field of acceptability.  

  I have a perfect example of such thought patterns in a semi-modern application.  My 1991 Geo Tracker uses a 315cm belt for the generator/fan drive, and a 320cm belt for the p/s drive.  The ps/ belt seems to be at the end of its' travel (ie loose).  I used the old 315cm belt from the generator and have plenty of adjustment left to allow for proper deflection.  The reason the company went to a 320cm belt was to stop people from running the belt to tight and burning up the p/s steering pump.  Guess GM didn't even trust factory mechanics to adjust belts correctly.

  Learning is built on a pretty steep learning curve sometimes..you definitely know now what not to do in the future.  Give yourself a break..you learned something new, and get to spend quality time with your machine.  Could have been something more expensive.
Will Morrison
2007 500 Military
2000 Kawasaki Drifter 1500
2000 Victory V92SC
1976 Suzuki GT185 Rebuilder Special..AKA (Junkyard Dog)
Many, many other toys.
The garage is full.


Blltrdr

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Reply #19 on: January 13, 2011, 05:07:49 pm
If you had it adjusted so taut that the chain wore through the rubber on the slipper you are probably OK as long as you didn't grind the chain through the rubber into the metal. I would replace the slipper and buy the adjuster bolt that has the rubber dampener on it. This after market adjuster will take up a little more slack than the stock one.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


GreenMachine

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Reply #20 on: January 13, 2011, 05:29:59 pm
i have the rubber damper in the box with the rest of the enfield stuff..They say it cuts down on vibration...I'll installl it whenever I get around too it...
Oh Magoo you done it again


The Garbone

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Reply #21 on: January 13, 2011, 10:01:16 pm
Eh,  I would just leave the sprag out and keep the spare around just in case you decide to sell.   I would hate to replace a sprag I don't use just to nuke it on a "oh shit" moment...
Gary
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UncleErnie

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Reply #22 on: January 14, 2011, 03:14:21 am
Re fluid and garbage;  except for having to remove sprag teeth, the fluid itself has always been relatively clean.  I keep my drain pan fairly clean so I can look around in old oil.

Mr Blackwell, I suppose I learned that the manual I was using was not correct?  I'm pretty sure I was keeping the slack in spec.  Having had BMW's most of my life, chains in general still intimidate me somewhat.

The ruber on the shoe is about half-way worn through- no danger of hiting metal. 
Part of my original question; can that be re-lined, or do I have to order a whole new shoe?

Mr Garbone, if I do put the new sprag in, I definitely will not be using it.  Strictly for possible resale- as you suggest.  I figure as long as I've got everything apart- why not?  Mr Vince says I have to take both sides out to put a new chain on.  I'm so excited.
not
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Blltrdr

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Reply #23 on: January 14, 2011, 03:30:50 am
I can't imagine the cost of the part would be more expensive than having it relined. Isn't it vulcanized and if so who would do it and for what price?
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


GreenMachine

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Reply #24 on: January 14, 2011, 03:31:06 pm
Sounds like your slipper adjuster is okay then. Assuming money isn't a issue I would replace it with a new chain...Still hard to believe that u stretched that dam thing with 11k on the bike..Like I said Snidal manual makes it sound like that it will last a very long time...U sound  like a guy who needs the belt installed vice the primary chain but that gets expensive....u have some work ahead of you..u might want to put out the effort and see who that other guy is with the enfield in the local area (ashville/am i right) and see if he knows someone who might tackle the job correctly (i say correctly and if not u no better off doing it yourself and taking your time and if u have problems get on the board here)...What we don't want to see happen is u take it apart and f it all up and make a mess of it....Well some of us don't...Their maybe other with a mental pic or too that I rather not go into right now....
Oh Magoo you done it again


chris-bartlett

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Reply #25 on: November 12, 2013, 07:23:17 pm
I was at 19,000 miles and my primary chain kept slipping teeth on the sprocket if I took off too fast. I opened up the primary and found the chain to have some slack, but the tensioner was at the highest point. I added a rubber piece to make it a little tighter. Now, it only makes an occasional ticking sound when idling, but it drives great. Here's what that looks like.
- Is this bad?
- Do I need to replace the primary chain?
- Can you change the primary chain without removing the clutch and stator? (like removing a link and hooking it to the old chain, then pulling it around?)



motomataya

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Reply #26 on: November 12, 2013, 09:24:39 pm
Yes you need at least a new chain. It only comes off with the sprockets. you need pull the clutch and the sprocket off the crank.


GreenMachine

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Reply #27 on: November 13, 2013, 01:19:34 am
Chris. That tensioner looks crooked to me and so does the deflection of the primary chain...looks pretty dry and cruddy...did  you lose alot of fluid when u crack the cover?  +1 on what motto says.
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ROVERMAN

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Reply #28 on: November 13, 2013, 01:48:40 pm
+1 & +1. :P :P :P


Blltrdr

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Reply #29 on: November 14, 2013, 05:13:37 pm
I was at 19,000 miles and my primary chain kept slipping teeth on the sprocket if I took off too fast. I opened up the primary and found the chain to have some slack, but the tensioner was at the highest point. I added a rubber piece to make it a little tighter. Now, it only makes an occasional ticking sound when idling, but it drives great. Here's what that looks like.
- Is this bad?
- Do I need to replace the primary chain?
- Can you change the primary chain without removing the clutch and stator? (like removing a link and hooking it to the old chain, then pulling it around?)

The slipper bolt rest that is cast into the inner primary cover is different from any I have seen. Doesn't mean it's not right but it is surely different. Is your Bullet an Indian home model that was brought to the States Chris? Also your cover gasket is twisted and it looks like it's been weeping/leaking where the twist is located on the bottom under the alternator. You will need a new one. Because of the difference in inner primary casting you may need to research because the slipper and bolt might be different. Chain does look dry. There seems to be a lot of surface rust also. It looks like you have been running without oil for a while. Hopefully someone can chime in on that difference that I am pointing out about the inner cover bolt rest. I will include a pic.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII