[NZEnfield]

Greetings all.

I have been lurking on this site for a few months now, reading up on all the very informative discussions. I have a 2005 iron barrel with 11000 kms on the clock.

I must say, you guys certainly know your Bullets. And I have learnt a lot about my bike by just reading up. I'm only up to page 40 on the forum though and another 120 pages to go!

I'm confused about one thing... When i bought the bike, I used to have a lot of kickbacks through the KS. as well as blow backs from the carb while starting. So much so that the blow back would pop the carb out of the manifold!

To resolve this, I pulled the carb apart and gave it a thorough cleaning, checked the manifold for leaks and adjusted the tappets. I then had the local workshop adjust the timing since I dont own a strobe.

After the timing adjustment, it feels like the bike doesn't have as much power as before and seems to be revving slightly higher when I am at highways speeds (100 km per hour in NZ but i don't go over 80 km). I didn't notice this when I bought the bike and took her for a 100 km test run. She seemed to run well and the revs weren't too high.

Am I just imagining things (as all RE owners do), or does the timing adjustment make a difference to the performance?

Oh, I have a Boyer electronic ignition installed.

Thanks

[cyrusb]

The timing has everything to do with performance. As far as the revs at speed are concerned, they are locked in unless you changed a sprocket. With lower power you may need more throttle at a given speed, but the revs are locked in mechanically. Timing the Boyer is for someone who has it, like Ace. Come to think of it, where is he lately? Do you still have the points?

[NZEnfield]

I don't have the points with me because I bought the bike with the Boyer installed. I have considered going back to the points and condenser but if the Boyer works well, I'm not too fussed about changing it.

Sprocket is stock as is everything else. Maybe I'm just paranoid   

[t120rbullet]

One thing Boyer's have to have is a battery that is 100%. If it starts to go flat from not being run the low voltage will cause the Boyer to advance the ignition. Hence starting problems.
A bad battery will give you all kinds of problems mostly with starting, idling and low speed operation.
Unless you have a real good shop that does performance work on a lot of Enfields I doubt they timed it with a strobe.
If your sure your battery is 100% you might try backing the timing off a bit to see if it improves your starting.
CJ

[NZEnfield]

Thank you Br. Blltrdr.

I'll take a peek at the spark plug tonight when I get home. The exhaust note seems the same after the shop was done with it.

[Hog Head]

The new Boyer has addressed the low battery starting issue, same as Pagon

The installation instructions leave a lot to be desired. I did it much easier:
Use a dial gauge to set TDC
Remove the primary and mark the rotor/stator for TDC
Use an adjustable timing light set at 10 degrees
Rotate the distributor plate until the marks line up when idling
done

As this is a digital advance curve, if set at idle it will be correct at all advanced positions.

[Ice]

Timing set advanced more than the motor cares for is one cause of the symptoms you describe; hard starting,kick back, etc

[NZEnfield]

That sounds like an easy work around Hog Head, thanks. I see what you mean about marking the stator for TDC. But what two marks do mean when you say they should line up? There are a couple of black pen marks on the distributor plate. After the timing was adjusted at the shop, they are slightly offset from each other. By about 2 mm.

Br Ice, when I bought the bike and had the kick backs, etc I figured it might be advanced timing after going through this forum. Now it’s all good after the shop did the timing for me..

The reason for this thread is that I was wondering if the higher revs that i THINK i am experiencing is because the timing is still not perfect. However, I am not having any more problems starting or with kick backs. The bike starts up first kick.... usually  

[RGT]

the timing will not effect the revs. That is determined by gearing as mentioned, unless your clutch is slipping... I have the Boyer and think it is great. If it was running and starting fine after they timed it I would look for things that have changed since then, low or bad battery, weather?(you may need to check mixture) make sure your carb/manifold/exhaust for leaking.....check your valve adjustment....

[NZEnfield]

Thanks RGT. Maybe I just feel that the revs are higher.  
I checked the tappets last night and all good. they didn't need much adjustment.
Battery is putting out 11.8V at stand still while the bike is off. I'm assuming since it is pretty close to 12V, that shouldn't be a problem, right?
On another note, assuming the previous owner hasn't ever de-coked the machine, is it worth me pulling the head off and doing it or just using an additive to the fuel for now... bike had done 11000 kms.

[Blltrdr]

Thanks RGT. Maybe I just feel that the revs are higher.  
I checked the tappets last night and all good. they didn't need much adjustment.
Battery is putting out 11.8V at stand still while the bike is off. I'm assuming since it is pretty close to 12V, that shouldn't be a problem, right?
On another note, assuming the previous owner hasn't ever de-coked the machine, is it worth me pulling the head off and doing it or just using an additive to the fuel for now... bike had done 11000 kms.

If that is your standing voltage after charging your battery is most likely shot. It should be reading 12.6 v + when fully charged.

[PhilJ]

12.8 vdc = fully charged healthy battery. 12 vdc = dead battery. My AGM battery fully charged after setting for 24 hrs. reads 13.2 vdc. When it gets to below 12.8 vc I will replace it.

[500KsGerry]

Hi NZE,
Any change in the ignition  timing will effect the idle speed. Adjust idle rpm after your timing is finished. I had a older , not oldest, Boyer ign box  which is blue in color.
 Keep battery warm with a tender to keep battery warm if bike stored in the cold. This will slow the sulfate degradation in the battery. My only complaint about it was battery issues. Low power or continuous slow in town speeds with much engine idling would deplete the stock sized battery on my  bike rather quickly. 2 options to cure this. One is a bigger alt for more charging. Other is a larger battery with more crank amps. Changing both would be optimal. I went  with a bigger bat and this worked well  for me. Keep battery warm with a tender to keep battery warm if bike stored in the cold.

[NZEnfield]

Thanks for the replies guys..

So it looks like my battery is shot. I haven't seen it read higher than 11.8V while switched off. I'll head out this weekend and grab a battery and tender as well.

I have been contemplating buying a TDC tool and timing light from the RE dealer here but he needs to order it from Oz. I might drop a few hints to the Mrs for my christmas gifts

[RGT]

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,7848.0.html
I hope that brings you to a link that discusses checking your timing by reading the plug. I have not bothered with a light and have just used the plug reading method since installing the Boyer. Somewhere there is a more complete description of plug reading and the timing effects to look for....