Seems to me that the clutch-tranny (5speed) is bullet proof,and you seem to have the dope on everything else. Real basic. Yes ,the carb has a needle clip adjustment,but on this bike I really didn't go that far,just got the main richer and that seemed good enough,for me.I'm sure as time goes by I'll look into that. good luck in your search, remember the cast iron cylinder bulls are drying up.
Welcome to the forum. Well, I think you're getting the Enfield the right reasons! Simple, they are. There is more maintenance to do than any other new bike on the market but that's to be expected, of course. As you mention regular maintenance and initial break in are important otherwise you may well suffer problems, either immediately or further down the road. I'm not the guy who can really answer the longevity questions you ask, as I haven't owned mine long enough to tell you. But with good maintenance and upkeep, You could expect at least 30,000 miles before any kind of serious work is needed, probably longer than that. I'm sure someone will chime in with a better answer. These bikes start to have problems when you try and increase horsepower or run them at high speeds. You have to always remember they're 50 year old technology, with a very low power output, and kept like that they're very reliable. If you do a minor job of jetting or adding a less restrictive exhaust, I'll think you probably help the bike some by allowing it to breathe more freely, but if you expect to rebuild the carbs, head and exhaust systems and produce twice the horsepower and try for 70 mph all day, then you'll be in for a nasty suprise and some expensive fixes. Think slow and relaxed, plodding down the road, admiring the scenery, and the bike will do you just fine. I plan on messing with the carb jetting and exhaust in the next few months, along with removal of most of the emissions garb that restrict the bike. From what I understand, its fairly straightforward. If you can set your yamaha up, I'm sure you'll have no problem with an Enfield. There was a discussion earlier about how and when to do some of these modifications. Many say wait a while until the break in period is over. The bike will change considerably as it breaks in and you'll have plenty to do maintenance wise as it is, especially if you follow the Pete Snidal procedure. Also, if you change of bunch of stuff from stock and you have to take the bike back for warranty work for any reason, you may problems. Just a thought. I would think if you wait until you have around 2000 miles on it, it'll be broken in enough where its not going to change much and you'll have less screwing around with dialing stuff in. It took me almost a full season to get to 2000 miles, as the initial break in has you riding at 30 mph for extended times. I highly recommend you do this, but at 30 mph, miles don't pile up quickly at all! Without hours and hours of spare time, it took me a while.Have fun and good luck
Welcome greekxj. I'm pretty new here too. I now have 126 miles on my '65' Bullet.Your attitude towards maintenance and tinker seems about right for an RE. However, I believe the newer aluminum engined Classics and so fourth won't require quite so much. You'll have to decide what you are going to do, but I can tell from my short time with the bike, the whole maintenance thing is overblown. They simply aren't going to need all that much. More than a Honda, yes. But not a terrible amount.The trans shifts as good as many older Japanese bikes. Very few missed shifts. It has a solid positive feel.
I think they have officially stopped making the iron engine already. So if you want one, you'd better be quick, or least find one that you like and sweet talk the dealer into holding on to it for a test at least. Don't buy something you don't want (of course) but don't wait too long either!Oh, what you plan to do with the Enfield sounds just perfect. Enjoy. There is nothing better than putzing around on an Enfield
The last of the iron barrel 500cc bikes will be built next month (Feb). We anticipate that they will be gone from our warehouse by June. When they are gone, they are gone forever. The new engine is not just new materials, but is different engine that looks similar. Among other things it has electronic ignition, an alloy cylinder barrel, bit higher compression, lower emissions and a CV carburetor. It is known as the "Lean-Burn" engine and was developed by AVL in Austria.
Welcome Greekxj!> Now out of curiosity i was wondering about how well the clutch/transmission set up is? Mine are working great. The shift is smooth and neutral is easy to find.Clutch pull is not light, but not excessively heavy either (certainly not enough to cause discomfort).> how about the drive train? Besides chains/sprockets etc.At 3500 miles mine shows no discernable sprocket wear and the chain holds tension better than I expected on a new chain. Since you're careful with your maintenances you shouldn't expect any problems!> I probably will end up doing an exhaust/intake mod if i get one too. But i gotta get one first ! I have my v star all jetted with intake/exhaust etc which was very easy to tune with the help of the star forum. How about the enfield, is it easy to get it dialed in? I see people changing out main/pilot jets but no mention of needle clip settings. Dont wanna sound dumb but does the carb have that set up or is it different?All this depends upon how you do your performance upgrade: Whose kit you use, are you using the stock carb and modifying it or getting a kit-carb, etc.Doing the upgrade shouldn't be any different that any other carburated bike.As a single it should even be easier!I've documented my upgrade at: http://members.verizon.net/allofusmorrows/PerfUpgrade.htm Matt
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